Contents Archaeological Textiles Review Editorial 2 Articles ATR is published by the Society Friends of ATN, hosted by CTR. Red Heels: The Symbol of a Power Shift in 3 17th-Century Copenhagen? Signe Groot Terkelsen and Vivi Lena Andersen Editorial Board: Eva Andersson Strand Liturgical Vestments of the 16th to the 18th 10 Joanne Cutler Century in Austria Karina Grömer Karina Grömer Ulla Mannering Ursula Rothe Archaeological Textiles of the 10th to the 12th 21 Century from the Gaigovo Barrow The scientific committee: Group in Russia John Peter Wild, UK Svetlana Kochkurkina and Olga Orfinskaya Lise Bender Jørgensen, Norway Elisabeth Wincott Heckett, Ireland An 11th-Century 2/2 Twill from a 34 Johanna Banck-Burgess, Germany Burial in Shekshovo in Russia Tereza Štolcová, Slovakia Karin Margarita Frei, Nikolaj Makarov, Heidi Sherman, USA Marie-Louise Nosch, Irene Skals, Ina Vanden Claudia Merthen, Germany Berghe and Irina Zaytseva Christina Margariti, Greece Experimental Approach to the Ergonomics of 43 Textile Production in Bronze Age Greece Layout and cover: Sidsel Frisch Agata Ulanowska Print: Grafisk An Early Modern Mystery: A Pilot Study of 57 University of Copenhagen Knitting, Napping and Capping Jane Malcolm-Davies Subscription information: To become a member of the society Germanic Linguistics and Textile Words 75 Friends of the Archaeological Nikolai Brink Sandbeck Textiles Newsletter and receive ATR, as well as for institutional subscription please visit: Projects www.atnfriends.com Non-Woven Textile Techniques 86 www.webshophum-en.ku.dk/ in Pre-Columbian Peru shop/archaeological-textiles- Lena Bjerregaard 333c1.html Clothes Make the Man: Early Medieval 98 Textiles from the Netherlands ISSN 2245-7135 Chrystel Brandenburgh Archaeological Textiles Review No. 58 Contents Ancient Design by Modern Hands: 102 An Invitation to Textile Artists Julia Galliker and Ines Bogensperger Reviews History of Techniques in Ancient Iran: 105 Case of Textiles and Cosmetics Elham Ghassemi VI Purpureae Vestes International Symposium. Textiles 106 and Dyes in the Mediterranean Economy and Society Cecilie Brøns Dyes and Spices 108 Mikkel Nørtoft Archaeology of Textile: Production and 110 Contexts in the 1st Millennium BCE Marie-Louise Nosch Pre-Columbian Textiles 112 Ulrikka Mokdad Dominique Cardon Awarded 113 Chevalier de la Légion d’Honneur Antoinette Rast-Eicher Tradition and Innovation in Textile Technology in 114 Bronze Age Europe and the Mediterranean Agata Ulanowska Weaving the Past: The Archaeology of Textiles 115 and Textile Production in Greece in the 1st Millennium BCE Beatriz Marín-Aguilera International Conference on Comparative 117 Mummy Studies Lene Bjerregaard Resources 118 News 125 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 58 1 Editorial Editorial and this task was given to Elizabeth Peacock in Trondheim. We thank all our readers and the members of the I still have the early proofs of the ATN, complete with paper society for their constant support. It is a great pleasure corrections, and they bring a smile to my face as I think of to see that the many interesting articles published in the hard work, swearing, and fun involved in producing the ATN/ATR are widely used and quoted. We see that early ATNs and how this newsletter was able to bring so ATR fills an important gap in the line of academic many people together and set the stage for further research journals. and contacts in the field of archaeological textiles.” In the beginning of 2017 issues 1-45 will be placed on the ATN homepage as free download pdfs, while three And John Peter Wild continues the story: copies collecting issues 1-45 are available as a print-on- demand solution from the University of Copenhagen “We took over ATN from Elizabeth Peacock in 1998 webshop. In connection with this long expected (ATN 27) on the understanding that it would be a low- release two former editors share their memory of the tech publication – very low-tech by today’s standards! All early work with ATN. incoming text was retyped into two columns on our trusty Canon word-processor, and printed out. Strips of paper with Gillian Vogelsang-Eastwood, Director at the Textile the headers and footers were glued to each page by hand, as Research Centre in Leiden, The Netherlands writes: were the photographs and drawings submitted. Our print- shop scanned the document, printed it out page by page, “The origins of Archaeological Textiles Newsletter lie in and stapled each bundle. We found that colour photographs various informal discussions between John Peter Wild, could be reproduced more successfully than black-and- Lise Bender-Jørgensen and myself, about the need to white: the cost was initially greater, but dropped over the collect information on what was going on in the field of years. archaeological textiles. We all had the nagging feeling We never needed to raise the subscription rate, though that something should be done! But done about what and our postal costs on each issue became a problem. The other how? More and more people were getting interested in problem was finding a way for our subscribers to pay their archaeological textiles, but there was a lack of information subscriptions from abroad without incurring punitive bank about who was doing what, where and when. So the ATN charges. Since we regularly attended textile conferences was born in 1985, moulded and run from my home in transfer of cash by hand was an option; but otherwise posting Leiden. bank notes in an envelope became the default method, and The aim of the ATN was to provide up-to-date information – rarely failed! bearing in mind that this was in the period when computers ATN and ATR of course can only be as good as the articles were not widely available and the internet, as we know it they contain, and our authors literally made the newsletter! now, simply did not exist. So information was sent to us We shall always be grateful to them. However, there was via snail mail, sorted out into various topics, with telephone rarely a consistent flow of suitable manuscripts into our calls being made, and contacts persuaded to send in further hands, and pressing invitations were often issued when the details about excavations, museum collections, books, events, editors got to hear of some new excitement! Two issues per and indeed anything related to the subject. Gradually more year gave us the chance to keep readers abreast of the latest and more people became involved in collecting information discoveries and ideas before they heard about them elsewhere; and if someone heard about something, they were sent out but it meant that there was no editorial closed season. Our as ‘roving reporters’ to gather the all-important details. The final number was ATN 45 in 2007. Our word-processor ATN was designed to be a clearing house of information, must have known that its task was over; for after we had rather than a journal of learned articles. printed out the very last page, it broke down terminally. The At first everything was written in columns on a simple age of low-tech was over!” typewriter, sent out to be checked, and mistakes covered with a slip of paper with the corrected information. There The next deadline for contributions is 1st May 2017. were line-drawings or black and white images to stick down Please also remember to send us any news of new on the correct pages and then down to the local printing projects, publications and conferences, so that we can shop to make enough copies to send around – again by snail continue to act as a hub for our growing archaeological mail. And it worked! The ATN became an essential tool for textiles community. students and researchers wanting to build up a network and to learn what was happening in other parts of the world with We wish our readers a fruitful 2017 with many respect to archaeological textiles. interesting textile finds to write about. After a number of years preparing and editing the ATN, it was clear that it was time for someone else to take it over The Editors 2 Archaeological Textiles Review No. 58 Articles Signe Groot Terkelsen and Vivi Lena Andersen Red Heels The Symbol of a Power Shift in 17th-Century Copenhagen Introduction However, many are not aware that red heels and soles Many people are aware of the massive popularity of were also highly fashionable in Europe from the 17th the French designer Christian Louboutin’s stilettos century onwards, and a similar restrictive process with their distinctive red heel and sole. They are the took place at this early point. King Louis XIV of ultimate desirable item for fashion-conscious women France often wore shoes with red heels and soles, and (Semmelhack 2008, 66; 2011, 245). Some consumers by regulation made them the preserve of the nobility, even imitate the look by buying an ordinary pair of thereby making them into signifiers of authority, black stilettos and a can of red paint in pursuit of the power, political privilege and wealth (Mansel 2005; admiration and cache so closely linked to this label of Frisch 2013, 41). Their prestige was also linked to the footwear (The Telegraph 2012). To protect the brand high cost of red dyes at the time (Davidson 2011, 273). and its exclusivity, Louboutin has even trademarked Evidence from portrait paintings of the time suggests his design, so that it is now controlled by law in the US that the social restriction concerning red heels and (Milligan 2015). Today, this designer legally stands as soles on shoes did not apply outside France (Swann the inventor of the red sole and heel design, enabling 2001, 126-127), and recent excavations in Copenhagen him, along with a high price tag, to secure the brand’s reveal that the popularity of the red heels and soles exclusivity on the market and guaranteeing quality was likely much greater than previously believed and and originality for customers.