IMAGINE... LACE at WADDESDON 26 March - 26 October 2014
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NEEDLE LACES Battenberg, Point & Reticella Including Princess Lace 3Rd Edition
NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INCLUDING PRINCESS LACE 3RD EDITION EDITED BY JULES & KAETHE KLIOT LACIS PUBLICATIONS BERKELEY, CA 94703 PREFACE The great and increasing interest felt throughout the country in the subject of LACE MAKING has led to the preparation of the present work. The Editor has drawn freely from all sources of information, and has availed himself of the suggestions of the best lace-makers. The object of this little volume is to afford plain, practical directions by means of which any lady may become possessed of beautiful specimens of Modern Lace Work by a very slight expenditure of time and patience. The moderate cost of materials and the beauty and value of the articles produced are destined to confer on lace making a lasting popularity. from “MANUAL FOR LACE MAKING” 1878 NEEDLE LACES BATTENBERG, POINT & RETICELLA INLUDING PRINCESS LACE True Battenberg lace can be distinguished from the later laces CONTENTS by the buttonholed bars, also called Raleigh bars. The other contemporary forms of tape lace use the Sorrento or twisted thread bar as the connecting element. Renaissance Lace is INTRODUCTION 3 the most common name used to refer to tape lace using these BATTENBERG AND POINT LACE 6 simpler stitches. Stitches 7 Designs 38 The earliest product of machine made lace was tulle or the PRINCESS LACE 44 RETICELLA LACE 46 net which was incorporated in both the appliqued hand BATTENBERG LACE PATTERNS 54 made laces and later the elaborate Leavers laces. It would not be long before the narrow tapes, in fancier versions, would be combined with this tulle to create a popular form INTRODUCTION of tape lace, Princess Lace, which became and remains the present incarnation of Belgian Lace, combining machine This book is a republication of portions of several manuals made tapes and motifs, hand applied to machine made tulle printed between 1878 and 1938 dealing with varieties of and embellished with net embroidery. -
Table Decorations for a Silver Anniversary Glas and Lace
Table decorations for Glas a Silver Anniversary and lace See more on page 8 See more on page 5 Member magazine for The Danish Lace Association February 2021 142 Dear Member By: Ketty Busk As I write this - end November - I am and hope it will be possible as planned, else in this bulletin, we have moved sitting admiring the wintersun’s rays in March. down to the ground floor on the left- thinking about the fact that when this hand side in Nørrevoldgade 57 in Ny- magazine is published, the sun might It has been a wish for the General borg. hopefully shine on a good new year. Meeting to be held in different areas of the country, and that wish is herewith This has been a blessing for our board, I hope for a good year for the lace mak- granted. as we do not need to bring everything ers – without corona - so that we again up and down the stairs to the first floor. can come out and see what is happen- It will be as in 2020, a General Meeting ing around in our country. without workshops and without sales- We also hope that more people will join and exhibition booths, as we have no us at the Open House when we are on 2020 was a year without fairs, without idea how the situation will turn out to be. the ground floor. exhibitions – at least not of the larger kinds – as the General Meeting also We applied for an opportunity to rent Finely, I will take this opportunity to was postponed until August. -
Bobbin Lace You Need a Pattern Known As a Pricking
“Dressing” a Lace Pillow © Jean Leader 2014 pricking pin-cushion this edge should be a selvage if possible — the other edges lace in progress should be hemmed. cover cloth between bobbins and lower part of pricking cover cloth ready to cover pillow when not in use The pillow, a square or round piece of polystyrene (preferably high density) about 40 cm (16 in) across and 5 cm (2 in) thick, should be covered with a firmly woven dark cotton material. Avoid synthetic materials as these will attract dust and fluff. Cut a piece of material so that it is about 8-10 cm (3-4 in) wider than the pillow all round. Make a hem (with an opening) round the edge and thread either tape or elastic through it. Fit the cover over the pillow and pull the tape or elastic tight. (If you’re in a hurry just pin the cover in place.) This cover should be removed and washed occasionally. You will also need at least two cover cloths about 40 cm (16 in) square made of the same sort of material as the cover (they should be hemmed so no bits of thread can catch in the lace). One of these is placed over the lower part of the pricking and the bobbins lie on top of it. The other cloth is placed over the whole pillow when it is not in use so that the lace you’re working on stays clean. Making a Pricking In order to make bobbin lace you need a pattern known as a pricking. -
Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of Terms Used in the Documentation – Blue Files and Collection Notebooks
Book Appendix Glossary 12-02 Powerhouse Museum Lace Collection: Glossary of terms used in the documentation – Blue files and collection notebooks. Rosemary Shepherd: 1983 to 2003 The following references were used in the documentation. For needle laces: Therese de Dillmont, The Complete Encyclopaedia of Needlework, Running Press reprint, Philadelphia, 1971 For bobbin laces: Bridget M Cook and Geraldine Stott, The Book of Bobbin Lace Stitches, A H & A W Reed, Sydney, 1980 The principal historical reference: Santina Levey, Lace a History, Victoria and Albert Museum and W H Maney, Leeds, 1983 In compiling the glossary reference was also made to Alexandra Stillwell’s Illustrated dictionary of lacemaking, Cassell, London 1996 General lace and lacemaking terms A border, flounce or edging is a length of lace with one shaped edge (headside) and one straight edge (footside). The headside shaping may be as insignificant as a straight or undulating line of picots, or as pronounced as deep ‘van Dyke’ scallops. ‘Border’ is used for laces to 100mm and ‘flounce’ for laces wider than 100 mm and these are the terms used in the documentation of the Powerhouse collection. The term ‘lace edging’ is often used elsewhere instead of border, for very narrow laces. An insertion is usually a length of lace with two straight edges (footsides) which are stitched directly onto the mounting fabric, the fabric then being cut away behind the lace. Ocasionally lace insertions are shaped (for example, square or triangular motifs for use on household linen) in which case they are entirely enclosed by a footside. See also ‘panel’ and ‘engrelure’ A lace panel is usually has finished edges, enclosing a specially designed motif. -
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Identification
Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace DATS in partnership with the V&A DATS DRESS AND TEXTILE SPECIALISTS 1 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Text copyright © Jeremy Farrell, 2007 Image copyrights as specified in each section. This information pack has been produced to accompany a one-day workshop of the same name held at The Museum of Costume and Textiles, Nottingham on 21st February 2008. The workshop is one of three produced in collaboration between DATS and the V&A, funded by the Renaissance Subject Specialist Network Implementation Grant Programme, administered by the MLA. The purpose of the workshops is to enable participants to improve the documentation and interpretation of collections and make them accessible to the widest audiences. Participants will have the chance to study objects at first hand to help increase their confidence in identifying textile materials and techniques. This information pack is intended as a means of sharing the knowledge communicated in the workshops with colleagues and the public. Other workshops / information packs in the series: Identifying Textile Types and Weaves 1750 -1950 Identifying Printed Textiles in Dress 1740-1890 Front cover image: Detail of a triangular shawl of white cotton Pusher lace made by William Vickers of Nottingham, 1870. The Pusher machine cannot put in the outline which has to be put in by hand or by embroidering machine. The outline here was put in by hand by a woman in Youlgreave, Derbyshire. (NCM 1912-13 © Nottingham City Museums) 2 Identifying Handmade and Machine Lace Contents Page 1. List of illustrations 1 2. Introduction 3 3. The main types of hand and machine lace 5 4. -
August 2020 Page 1
NELG Newsletter, Issue 110, August 2020 Page 1 The Quarterly Newsletter of the New England Lace Group Issue 110 www.nelg.us August 2020 Enjoying Lace Together Since 1982 Page 4 In this Issue President’s Message ................................................ Page 2 An Invitation to Collaborate ..................................... Page 3 Zero-Waste and Bobbin Lace ................................... Page 4 Book Review ........................................................... Page 5 Sr Madeleine’s Torchon Shawl ................................. Page 6 Digital Museum Field Trip ........................................ Page 7 Things to Do & Places to Go ..................................... Page 9 Lace in Literature ................................................... Page 10 Meeting Minutes ................................................... Page 10 Member Resources ................................................ Page 11 Pattern Pages ........................................................ Page 12 …And more! Page 2 NELG Newsletter, Issue 110, August 2020 President’s Message Elected Officers President Did you, like me, just “return” from the IOLI UnCon Carolyn Wetzel (Unconventional Convention) this weekend? Kudos to 108 Petticoat Hill Road the IOLI organizers who threw it together as a Williamsburg, MA, 01096 replacement for the in-person convention. Only one (413) 268-3115 class went virtual as far as I know, the Beginners [email protected] Bobbin Lace Class, but it was fun to still have the lace Vice President competition, -
The Oak Interior, 24 & 25 April 2013, Chester
Bonhams New House 150 Christleton Road Chester CH3 5TD +44 (0) 1244 313936 +44 (0) 1244 340028 fax 21122 The Oak Interior, 24 & 25 April 2013, Chester 2013, April 24 & 25 The Oak Interior including The E. Hopwell Collection Wednesday 24 April 2013 at 10am Thursday 25 April 2013 at 10am Chester The Oak Interior including The E. Hopwell Collection, Pewter and Textiles Wednesday 24 April 2013 at 10am Thursday 25 April 2013 at 10am Chester Bonhams Enquiries Sale Number: 21122 Please see back of catalogue New House for important notice to bidders 150 Christleton Road Day I Catalogue: £20 (£25 by post) Chester CH3 5TD Pewter Illustrations bonhams.com David Houlston Customer Services Back cover: Lot 496 +44 (0) 1244 353 119 Monday to Friday 8.30am to 6pm Inside front cover: Lot 265 Viewing [email protected] +44 (0) 20 7447 7447 Inside back cover: Lot 289 Friday 19 April 10am to 4pm Sunday 21 April 11am to 2pm The E. Hopwell Collection of Monday 22 April 10am to 4pm Metalware & Treen Tuesday 23 April 10am to 4pm Megan Wheeler Wednesday 24 April 8.30am to 4pm +44 (0) 1244 353 127 Thursday 25 April 8.30am to 9.45am [email protected] Bids Textiles +44 (0) 20 7447 7448 Claire Browne +44 (0) 20 7447 7401 fax +44 (0) 1564 732 969 To bid via the internet [email protected] please visit www.bonhams.com Day II Please note that bids should be Furniture submitted no later than 24 hours David Houlston before the sale. -
Textilní Materiály a Výzdobné Techniky
Textilní materiály a výzdobné techniky / Textile materials and decoratve techniques 5. přednáška / 5 lecture Petra Mertová, 2017, FFMU Brno, [email protected] Téma přednášky / Lecture topic Textilní výrobky / Textile products 1. předtkalcovské techniky – paličkovaná krajka / 1. non-loom techniques - bobbin lace Paličky / bobbins - pláštíkové (mladší) / bobbin with „skirt“ (younger) Slovenské paličky se „zvonečky“ - bezpláštíkové / without „skirt“ / bobbins from Slovakia Poduška / Pillow „poduška“ Francouzská poduška / French pillow Španělská poduška / Spanish pillow Finská poduška / Finnish pillow Anglická poduška / English pillow Podvinky / Design on parchment or stiff card The design is first pricked by a series of pinholes Pomůcky z Vamberecka / Tools of Vamberk, Bohemia Historie paličkované krajky / History of bobbin lace Vzorníky / Pattern books Pro krajky (šitá krajka, pozamentérie, paličkovaná krajka, výšivka) / For laces (passements, needlepoints laces, bobbin laces, embroidery) Eyn new kunstlich boich (1527) – P. Quentel, Kolín nad Rýnem Esamplario dei lavori (1530) – N. d´Aristotela zv. Zappino Esamplario nuovo (1531) autor Tagliente Le Pompe (1557) bratři Giovanni Battista a Marchio Sesa – první pro paličkovanou krajku Parasole (1595) Vzorníky / pattern book Chr. Froshover: New Modelbuch Paličkovaná krajka – retičela / bobbin lace „genoese“ Šitá krajka - retičela / Embroidery lace „genoese“ Základní prvky / basic technology Pláténko - / polohod - / pavouček - / pecička - Dělení paličkované krajky / Basic types of bobbin laces -Západoevropská krajka / Western European lace -Východoevropská krajka / Eastern European lace - Pásková krajka / tape lace - Mnohopárová krajka / multi-pair lace Mnohopárová krajka / Multi-pair lace Půdice / reseau or ground, mesh, background Valencienská krajka / Valenciennes lace Valencienská krajka / Valenciennes lace Vláčková krajka / czech lace called „vláčka“ Vláčková krajka / czech lace called „vláčka“ Kovová krajka – Rusko, 19. stol. /Metal lace, Russia, 19th cent. -
A Working Vocabulary for the Study of Early Bobbin Lace 2015
A Working Vocabulary for the study of Early Bobbin Lace 2015 Introduction This is an attempt to define words used when discussing early bobbin lace; assembling the list has proved an incredibly difficult task! Among the problems are: the imprecision of the English language; the way words change their meaning over years/centuries; the differences between American English, English English and translations between English and other languages... The list has been compiled with the help of colleagues in Australia, Sweden, UK and USA; we come from very different experiences and in some cases it has been impossible to reach a precise definition that we all agree. In these cases either alternatives are given, or I have made decisions on which word to use. As the heading says, this is a working vocabulary, one I and others can use when studying early lace, and I am open to persuasion that different words and definitions might be better. 2015 Early bobbin lace - an open braid or fabric featuring plaits and twisted pairs, created by manipulation of multiple threads (each held on a small handle known as a bobbin); as made from the first half of the sixteenth century until an abrupt change in style in the1630s. Described in the sixteenth century as Bone Lace, also called Passamayne Lace (from the French for braid or trimming) or passement aux fuseaux. Reconstruction - a copy that, given the constraints of modern materials, is as close as possible to the original lace in size/proportion and technique. Interpretation - reproduction of lace from patterns or paintings, or where it is not possible to see the exact structure and/or proportions of the original lace Adaptation - taking an original lace, pattern or illustration and working it in a completely different material, scale or proportion. -
Ipswich Lace Workshop Materials Information
Ipswich Lace Workshop Materials Information Patterns, etc. provided to the students from the instructor: 1. Two Ipswich pattern packs of your choice. Please choose from the attached list. The samples are listed in approximate level of difficulty, with #2 being the easiest. 2. Prickings are printed on light grey cardstock and mailed to your snail mail address. 3. Color-coded working diagram 4. Corresponding pictures of the reconstructed lace and the original 1790 sample. Supply list: 1. Lace pillow, your preferred style for continuous lace, large enough to accommodate up to 50 pairs of bobbins 2. Bobbins (your preferred style) up to 50 pairs, depending on pattern choice 3. Pins – all the same size. The Ipswich lacemakers used handmade pins, which were approximately .60 to .65 mm in diameter. 4. Black silk thread, such as YLI 50, Clover 50, or Tiger (approximately 35-36 wraps/cm), or Piper spun silk 140/2 or Kreinik Au Ver a Soie 130/2 (42 wraps/cm) 5. Gimp thread: Gütermann 30/3 (S1003, 3-ply, approx. 16 wraps/cm) or Soie Perlee for a slightly thinner gimp. Or use 4-6 strands of your lace thread. 6. Two cover cloths. The one on the pillow, under the bobbins should be light color to contrast with the black threads. 7. Several short bobbin holders 8. Scissors, other regular bobbin lace supplies for continuous lace technique. 9. Wind on each bobbin about 4 times the length of lace you plan to make. Wind the number of bobbins indicated on your chosen pattern, singly or in pairs, depending on your preference. -
Techniques Represented in Each Pattern
(updated) November 12, 2020 Dear Customer: Thank you for requesting information about my lace instruction and supply business. If you have any questions about the supplies listed on the following pages, let me use my 36 years of lacemaking experience to help you in your selections. My stock is expanding and changing daily, so if you don't see something you want please ask. It would be my pleasure to send promotional materials on any of the items you have questions about. Call us at (607) 277-0498 or visit our web page at: http://www.vansciverbobbinlace.com We would be delighted to hear from you at our email address [email protected]. All our orders go two day priority service. Feel free to telephone, email ([email protected]) or mail in your order. Orders for supplies will be filled immediately and will include a free catalogue update. Please include an 8% ($7.50 minimum to 1 lb., $10.50 over 1 lbs.-$12.00 maximum except for pillows and stands which are shipped at cost) of the total order to cover postage and packaging. New York State residents add sales tax applicable to your locality. Payment is by check, money order or credit card (VISA, MASTERCARD, DISCOVER) in US dollars. If you are looking for a teacher keep me in mind! I teach courses at all levels in Torchon, Bedfordshire, Lester, Honiton, Bucks Point lace, Russian and more! I am happy to tailor workshops to suit your needs. Check for scheduled workshops on the page facing the order form. -
The Allotment Garden in Uglebo Miss Sprutte the Annual Laceday
The Annual The Allotment Laceday Garden in Uglebo See more on page 30 See more on page 9 Miss Sprutte See more on page 21 Member magazine for The Danish Lace Association May 2018 131 Dear members We have since last held our Annu- were uttered about the new design of encouraging words, were we at the al Meeting and General Meeting on Kniplebrevet. We had for that reason, end able to get two members voted in. March 17th in Mødecenter Odense. decided to invite our new graphical edi- When we accept a vote this way, is the tors to the general meeting so they could fact that we go to our duty on the board What an Annual Meeting. I do not give answers to technical questions. whole-heartedly, not certain. I know for think that there has ever been so many Minutes from the general meeting and sure, that I, when I am up for election stands and exhibitors. It was a bit of a the appointment of the board can be next year, will NOT be a candidate. I puzzle to get room for everybody, but read someplace else in this bulletin. am right now in my 10th year as chair we succeeded at last with big profes- of the board, and I feel that I am getting sional help from Mødecenteret. We As you could read in Kniplebrevet no. worn out. I have loved our organization even regretfully had to thank no to 130, did Yvonne not wish to be a can- and still do, but new energy has to take one stand and drop our own reading- didate for reelection, and we therefore over.