Aconcagua (22,841 ft/6,962 m) Planning Package Aconcagua Climber Information

Keep in Touch Flying to Mendoza, Argentina Most travelers fly during the night to Santiago, Chile and then As a member of our Aconcagua team we encourage you to change planes and take a morning or afternoon flight to Mendoza. contact us with any questions as our intent is to provide personal One may also travel via Buenos Aires, Argentina. Remember to attention to your preparation needs. While this pamphlet will ensure your luggage has arrived when you reach Santiago or answer many of your questions, we enjoy hearing about your Buenos Aires and is booked though to Mendoza. (most airlines specific interests and look forward to making the pre-trip planning allow two 50 lb bags) an exciting part of the journey. Please take the time to read this document in full. Suggested Flight Departure: LATAM Chile Santiago to Mendoza preferred morning flight Alpine Ascents Seattle: (206) 378-1927 Suggested Flight Return: LATAM Chile Mendoza to Santiago We are happy to schedule a conference call to discus gear, training late afternoon or early evening. or logistics Other Flights and Early Arrivals: We are happy to accommodate other flights. For those arriving early or departing Paperwork after the scheduled itinerary, we are happy to make hotel arrangements. Please contact our office in advance of your Please make sure you complete and return the following departure if you would like us to make additional reservations for paperwork as soon as possible. This information assists us in you at an additional cost. Please note those flying via Buenos Aires procuring permits and making final hotel reservations. have had more lost luggage than other routes.

⎕ Application ⎕ Passport Copy ⎕ Flight Itinerary Missed Flights: If you miss your flight, please leave a message or ⎕ Evacuation Insurance (required for this trip) text for Gordon Janow, Director of Programs at: (206) 419-0097 or email [email protected]. Travel Arrangements Upon Arrival Scheduling Climbers arriving on the scheduled day (see day to day itinerary) Please note that trip dates are inclusive of travel time from your will be picked up at the airport. Please look for an Alpine Ascents home country and a day-to-day itinerary can be found with your sign upon leaving customs. If you are arriving early (one day or confirmation letter. Please forward a copy of your flight itinerary more) please take a taxi (around $10.00) directly to the Hyatt or before booking so we may review departure and arrival dates. local hotel (see hotel info for more details). Those arriving on the scheduled date do not need to make extra arrangements. We do recommend arriving a day early in case of lost luggage.

Alpine Ascents highly recommends the services of Charles Mulvehill at Scan East West Travel (800) 727-2157 or (206) 623-2157 or [email protected] when making flight arrangements.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 1 Lodging

In Mendoza We lodge at the Park Hyatt Mendoza Hotel (please note we may switch hotels) while in Mendoza. Please contact Alpine Ascents if you would like us to make reservations for you if you are arriving early. (On ocassion we may use the Diplomatic Hotel. We will inform you if we make this change.)

Feel free to contact us to book extra hotel nights for early arrival. We do not include hotels after the climb so that you may change your room to a single room if desired (without penalty) and to better accommodate early departure. You will have the option to book your hotel room (usually at a lesser rate) with our local outfitter at the trail head. Guides and local staff will assist with post trip hotel reservations in Penintentes and Mendoza.

Hotel Reservations Park Hyatt Mendoza For those requesting double room accommodations every effort Chile 1124 Mendoza, Argentina 5500 will be made to pair you with another climber. A Single Room Single Room Supplement is an additional fee. Supplement Fee will apply if a match cannot be made or there is Tel +54 261 441 1234 a last minute cancellation. This will help keep our overall program http://mendoza.park.hyatt.com pricing down since unlike other companies we do not charge more for smaller groups. Physical Conditioning Visa & Entry Requirements A valid passport is required for international travel. If you are a Please note that this climb is far more demanding than US citizen, it is not necessary to acquire a visa before travel. All Kilimanjaro. In addition to the physical demands, climbers climbers must send a copy of the picture page of your passport should have spent multiple nights outdoors, winter camping, ahead of time. You must have a valid passport that does not expire and completed multi-day trips with a 45/50 lb. pack, or 35/40 for at least 6 months from date of entry for most countries. lbs. for the Normal Route, and when possible, assist guides with setting up camp and tents. Please use the training statement Important Note: to determine what fitness levels are expected. We are happy to You must have a valid US passport that does not expire for at least work with you on developing a training program. While some 6 months from date of entry for most countries. minimum standard such as being able ascend 1000 feet per hour with a 40 lbs. pack is helpful, it is often hard to predict how non- Please Note: You are responsible to determine and satisfy entry mountaineering training will translate to Aconcagua. requirements for your passport/nationality. Alpine Ascents is happy to work closely with all climbers to determine those visa/ Please read all of the training information on our website, entry requirements. including a letter from one of our Senior Guides regarding the conditioning required for this climb: US citizens can consult US State department website at: http://travel.state.gov/content/passports/english/country/argentina.html https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/aconcagua/training/

Emergency Contact Health Requirements

The best way for family or friends to contact you in an emergency There are currently no health requirements for entering the is through the Seattle office: (206) 378-1927. country of Argentina. Travelers should consider inoculations for disease prevention purposes. The most common considerations For emergencies after business hours, you may call or text our are: 1. Update polio and tetanus 2. Hepatitis A. Climbers should Director of Programs, Gordon Janow at home: (206) 419-0097. bring a medical kit which can include prescription drugs and Diamox for altitude.

We encourage you review the latest health information regarding Aconcagua, at the Center for Disease Control’s website: https://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel/destinations/traveler/none/argentina

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 2 plan is as follows: Food Hot drinks at breakfast & dinner: Tea, cocoa, cider, coffee, milk Breakfast: Usually we have oatmeal, cold cereal with milk, We are all aware of the potential monotony of expedition food pancakes, coffee cake or eggs depending on the day. To and Alpine Ascents makes every effort to make meals on the climb supplement we have canned fruit, breakfast bars. as enjoyable as possible. This includes local market shopping before each expedition, pre-planned meals and dining as a group. Lunch: For the 3 days trekking in to base camp we will have We take great care in our meal preparation while understanding picnic lunches comprised of sandwiches (meat, cheese & the importance of enjoying your food and staying healthy. Alpine vegetables) and snacks (candy bars, granola bars), and cookies. Ascents prepares all water by boiling and/or with purification tablets. Climbers will fill water bottles at all meals and at certain For days climbing to our 3 high camps we eat at breaks rather rest stops. than taking a formal lunch. We will provide crackers, cheese, and salami, and some dried fruits/nuts, but you are required to bring Alpine Ascents will provide lunches during the trek in to the items listed previously. On rest days at camp, we have a more Aconcagua base camp, but on the upper mountain we ask formal lunch consisting of hot meals such as pasta, rice, or soup, climbers to bring their own supplemental food: energy bars, and some snacks such as cheese and crackers provided by Alpine gel packs candy and electrolyte mix. If you love coffee, take Ascents. heart, Starbuck’s VIA’s have become the new standard on mountaineering expeditions and are an excellent addition to your Dinner: Soup. such as chicken or vegetable. Main course usually food supply. (We ask for climbers to bring these supplementary consists of pasta or rice, sometimes a meat dish. Generally we items so that climbers bring items they are comfortable eat the heavier meals on the trek into base camp and save the consuming and not local Argentinean equivalents). lighter meals for higher up on the mountain when weight is a more serious factor in what we carry up to eat. We add seasoning Supplemental Food - What You Need to Bring: to our meals for flavor, however if climbers have specific dietary Vacas Valley Route restrictions or requests we can omit ingredients from your portion. (5+) Servings electrolyte replacement mix at your preference (Nuun, Skratch Labs) Dessert: Cookies and candy bars for desert (3) Energy gels (Gu) or (1-2) packages Clif Shot Bloks (15) Servings instant coffee (if desired!) (20) Energy bars/protein bars/candy bars (Clif Bar, Luna Bar) Physiology Of Mountaineering (1.5) Kilograms trail mix (pick a favorite variety) A small assortment of hard candy, cough drops, etc. Hydration, dehydration, hypothermia, frostbite, and altitude illness Optional: Beef, turkey, or vegan jerky (Extra protein can be nice are all important health conditions to be aware of while climbing. - note that original packaging is required to avoid trouble at Please read our overview of physiology in the mountains: customs) https://www.alpineascents.com/physiology-of-mountaineering/ Normal Route (5+) Servings electrolyte replacement mix at your preference (Nuun, Skratch Labs) Gear (3) Energy gels (Gu) or (1-2) packages Clif Shot Bloks (12) Servings instant coffee (if desired!) We certainly understand that you may have personal preferences (15) Energy bars/protein bars/candy bars (Clif Bar, Luna Bar) and have tested gear and gear systems in the field, but encourage (1) Kilogram trail mix (pick a favorite variety) you to contact us with any significant variations from the gear list: A small assortment of hard candy, cough drops, etc. https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/aconcagua/gear-list/ Optional: Beef, turkey, or vegan jerky (Extra protein can be nice - note that original packaging is required to avoid trouble at These gear lists are updated regularly, but some brands and customs) models do change. You are required to bring every item on the list. We are happy to work closely with you on finding the proper **Dietary Substitutions: For those climbers who do not eat cheese, gear. Please call the gear department directly with any questions dried meat, fruit etc you will need to bring more of the above to at (206) 378-1927. Climbers may store excess gear at the hotel. supplement your lunch food. If you are on the Vacas Valley any gear left at base camp will be transported around the mountain to meet you after you descend. What Alpine Ascents Will Bring: On our Aconcagua expedition our guides strive to provide You are required to bring every item on this list as described so be nutritious meals high in caloric content to satisfy the demands of as precise as possible when packing. Alpine Ascents rents quality climbing. These meals are lightweight and durable to reduce the equipment at reasonable rates. In addition, gear is now available loads carried and to survive the length of the expedition. We strive for purchase at the Alpine Ascents Equipment Store where to provide ample portions for each climber. A sample of our menu climbers on an Alpine Ascents expedition will receive a discount. Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 3 Guides & Guiding There are a number of services at base camp for purchase, cash or credit cards can be used with usually a 5% fee for credit use. Some Our last ten seasons are perfect examples of our commitment to services are, snacks, showers and Wi-Fi. leading outstanding expeditions. We had superb guiding teams, climbers and expedition support these past years. We also have National Park Climbing Permit Fee used a local outfitters’ permanent base camp equipped with a Current Climbing Permit Fees (not included in Alpine Ascents satellite phone and sporadic internet use (for a fee). Additionally, Expedition fee) must be paid before entering the National Park. we have multiple teams ascending/descending who can help At this time permit fees are to be paid in person with cash in climbers who need to descend. Mendoza, Argentina. Please note you will need to bring cash to pay the permit fee and Alpine Ascents will assist you in changing Our 10 climber teams (occasionally we have 11) will have a total US Dollars to Pesos in Mendoza. of 3 guides (some may meet us on the approach or at base camp or higher on the mountain). Teams may also be assisted by other 2019-20 Aconcagua National Park Fee Schedule (we will Alpine Ascents teams coming up/down the mountain. This is a update fee for 2020-21 when available): very demanding climb and summit day often exceeds 12 hours of (Note: dates are for actual entrance date into National Park) high altitude climbing. All climbers will be asked to assist with the Low Season: Enter park by Dec 15th or after Jan 31) carrying of group gear to and from camps, though porters can be High Season: Enter park Dec 15th – to Jan 31) hired for both routes and porters for group gear are included on the Normal Route departures. Normal Route High Season/Low Season $800/$590 Vacas Valley High Season/ Low Season $950/$730 Expenses Porters Of all our trips, Aconcagua may be the most complex to figure out Climbers may hire porters while on Aconcagua at their own expenses given the local economy, ever changing park fees and expense. Porters do not join the expedition but depart from base multiple options for early departure. Below please find estimated camp, pick up your load and carry to the designated camp, then costs based on 2018/19 prices. These costs will be updated as return to base camp. (Aconcagua is different from places like soon as we receive prices for the upcoming season. Kilimanjaro where porters join your trip). While porters greatly reduce your pack weight, you will still have to carry a personal Cash and Credit Cards backpack with approximately 15-20 lbs of personal gear, water, Cash: American dollars are the preferred currency. Carrying cash in food etc. conjunction with credit cards is recommended. Credit Cards: Are widely accepted for most items except some Our guides will assist with the hiring of porters and make portions of evac/early departure fees. Please note that local recommendations as to when to use porters. Hiring porters ahead businesses, including our outfitter, charge a 5% fee for use of of time and paying through our office can save you from paying credit card. the local credit card fee and limit the amount of cash you need to Debit Cards: ATM’s in Mendoza allow withdrawals of $100 (subject bring with you. to change). If you know ahead of time that you would like to employ the use Tips of a porter for an entire trip, we suggest pre-paying with Alpine Tipping guides is greatly appreciated and at the discretion of the Ascents. We can also help organize porters on a carry by carry climber. It’s always hard to recommend a specific amount as we basis once we arrive at base camp. believe tips should be based on level and quality of services, as well as an amount that meets your budget. Tips are not required. Please note that paying for porters by credit card at base camp will Some recommendations are: incur a local credit card fee of 5%. (See expenses section for details, Tips for Muleteers: $25 - $50 all prices are subject to change). Tips for Guides: The suggested range to be shared among guides is about $500, or a range of $350 - $1,000. Pack Weights If not using porters climbers carry roughly: Pocket Cash 35-40 lbs. on the Normal Route Please review the above to determine what balance of cash, debit 45-50 lbs. on Vacas Valley card and credit card you wish to use if needed. We would suggest cash for tips and any other items where you are comfortable Weights vary on type of gear, how much clothing you are wearing carrying cash to avoid the local credit card surcharge. We are at vs. carrying and any non-gear list items you have opted to bring. your service with questions. Please review the early departure Normal pack weights for an expedition of this length have much fees below to help determine how much cash you would like heavier packs but, to reduce pack weights for our climbers, we to bring. We recommend taking approximately $2000 in cash have hired porters for group gear (not personal gear) on the (or combination of ATM and cash). Mostly needed for tips and Normal Route and utilize double carries on the Vacas Valley route. permits. Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 4 For those needing to depart early from an expedition: 2020/21 (subject to change), Prices per porter service by camp are Alpine Ascents will pay for your single night in basecamp as listed below. We realize the porter situation can be complicated preparations are made for departure. and we are happy to chat by phone to suggest porter use based on your needs. Our local outfitter will:

• Set up your departure from basecamp to trailhead and PORTERS TO ACONCAGUA CAMPS 11 to 20 Kg onward to Mendoza Vacas Valley • Arrange hotels in transit Hotel Ayelen and Hyatt Mendoza • Arrange transport to Mendoza To Camp I $310 x 2 • Helicopter transport may be available from base camp to road head or… To Camp III – Guanacos $417 x 2 • Climbers must hike out with a guide (3 days) or… • Ride a mule with hired guide (usually out in 1.5 days) To Camp IV - Colera $498 x 2 Climbers will need to pay for the above services at rates noted From Camp IV to Plaza de Mulas $340 below. Payment is made at basecamp via credit card (with a 5% fee). Approximate fees - subject to change. Total $2,790 • Travel with a guide to the trailhead is approximately 3 days. Guide will care for climber, set up camp and prepare meals. $450 for 1 person and $300 per person for 2 people or more PORTERS TO ACONCAGUA CAMPS 11 to 20 Kg • Travel via mule with a guide approximately 1.5 days. Normal Route - Plaza de Mulas Expected cost of $1300 (climber and guide riding out via mule) To Canada - Carry Day $195 • Helicopter (**if available) to trailhead. If an evacuation is needed from BC a helicopter usually costs about $2300 US To Canada - Move Day $195 and is usually refundable via your evac/trip cancellation insurance. Most recent To Nido de Condores $280 heli costs are: $2300 for 1 person; $1150 for 2; $770 for 3 ** Please note that we are still unsure as to availability of To Colera or Berlin $340 helicopters for this season • Once you arrive at the trailhead, transport is arranged From Colera or Berlin to Plaza de Mulas $340 (regrettably the wait can be a few hours or more) back to Mendoza. Total $1,350 • Cost of night at Hotel Ayelen for single room $85 (this can be reimbursed by Alpine Ascents after expedition) • Cost of night at Hyatt Mendoza $200 (other hotel options Early Departure/Evacuation may be available and base camp staff will assist and book as many nights as asked for) Aconcagua can be one of the most difficult places to determine • Private shuttle from Hotel Ayalen to Mendoza is $280 per extra fees due to the many variables when departing early. In most vehicle for 1-2 climbers and $450 per vehicle for 3-8 climbers cases, early departure fees can be paid by credit card, but a 5% fee • Please note we attempted to list all fees but smaller transport is often assessed. fees may be additional

Early departure fees can include: Other Fees Lodging Fees • Helicopter or Mule evacuation or departure from base camp Rooming arrangements at the end of the trip can be very • Transport from trailhead to Mendoza complicated as some climbers leave early, roommate preferences • Nights in Mendoza from arrival to departure can change and climbers may opt for a single room at the end • Meals in case of early departure. of the climb. While we will make reservations for climbing teams; climbers will pay for the hotel in Mendoza at the conclusion of the Climbers may be evaluated at base camp by a local doctor trip to provide greater choice of rooming. In turn we have added (when in attendance). Though not a common occurrence, this the service of hiring porters to carry out waste from each camp doctor has the authority to ask climbers with altitude issues to when possible to maintain the value of the climb. leave the expedition with evac expenses applicable.

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 5 climb a mountain, reaching a site and encountering trash, food Cancellation & Refund Policy waste and toilet paper. Please read the seven LNT principles, and call the office if you have any questions about what you can do to Alpine Ascents must adhere to a strict refund policy on all expeditions. plan ahead. Please review your application, brochure and website for current refund policy. Our refund policy also protects other members who have committed their time and money to the expedition. Please visit our website for a full list of expedition cost inclusions/exclusions.

https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/aconcagua/price-schedule/ Trip Insurance

Please note that trip evacuation insurance is mandatory. We highly Follow us on Facebook recommend Trip Cancellation Insurance, which generally includes Evacuation Insurance, will usually cover injury or illness cancellation Like us on Facebook and see our latest news on your Facebook (non-work related), as well as a host of other pre-trip issues ( i.e., lost page. www.facebook.com/AlpineAscentsInternational luggage). Evacuation may also be purchased separately for a lower price. Please see details of our recommended policy at: https://www. alpineascents.com/trip-cancellation-insurance-trip/

Cybercast

We are planning to cybercast your expedition on our website. If you have any objections to having your name included in the cybercast as a team member, please contact us as soon as possible.

How it works: Guides call in an audio report that is immediately posted to the website. Please let your family & friends know that the lack of a current cybercast does not indicate a problem with the team. The address for the cybercast is:

https://www.alpineascents.com/climbs/aconcagua/cybercasts/

Leave No Trace

Alpine Ascents International practices Leave No Trace principles on all expeditions. We believe that given the proper information most people will do all they can to help protect and maintain the environment.

Please Visit: www.lnt.org/learn/7-principles

As guides, we spend time teaching the environmentally appropriate Leave No Trace principles and practices. There is nothing more beautiful than working hard to get high into the mountains, come upon a pristine campsite, witness incredible views and have the feeling that no one has been there before.

Conversely, there is nothing more disheartening than working hard to

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Climber Information 6 Climber Self-Questionnaire

As our literature suggests, Aconcagua is an extremely challenging climb; far more physically demanding than Kilimanjaro and most climbs in the continental US. In our continuing efforts to match best climbers and mountains we thank you in advance for reviewing this “self-test”. Document your athletic experience, and analyze your readiness for this climb.

Question 1: Have you completed multiple overnight camping trips, which included carrying a heavy pack (40–55lbs) and setting up a tent camp each evening?

Question 2: Do you have a good understanding of the physical difficulty of climbing Aconcagua? Noting it’s comparatively difficult to a climb like Kilimanjaro.

Question 3: Do you train/exercise on a regular basis? Are you specifically training for mountaineering?

Question 4: Have you previously trained 3–5 months in advance of an upcoming climb or event for 5+ days per week with multiple training sessions of over 5 hours prior to the climb?

Question 5: Have you read the training information on our website?

We thank you for your time and encourage you to call our offices with any questions

(206) 378-1927 • [email protected] www.AlpineAscents.com

Alpine Ascents International • 109 W Mercer St. • Seattle, WA • p: (206) 378-1927 • f: (206) 378-1937 • e: [email protected] • www.alpineascents.com Training Program 7