15 Expeditions 15 Summits on Aconcagua

Total Page:16

File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb

15 Expeditions 15 Summits on Aconcagua 15 EXPEDITIONS 15 SUMMITS ON ACONCAGUA SEASON 2012 - 2013 OUR BEST YEAR EVER! [email protected] • www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS TABLE OF CONTENTS ALPS TRIP DESCRIPTION 3 Overview of your trip from start to finish ALPS TRIP ITINERARY- MONT BLANC, MATTERHORN, EIGER 4 - 5 Detailed itinerary Day 1 through Day 10, dates and cost ALPS EQUIPMENT LIST 6 - 8 Everything you will need for the climb AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS CLIENTS REFERRAL CONTACT LIST 9 - 11 Names, phone numbers and e-mails of previous clients AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS CLIENTS LETTERS OF REFERENCE 12 - 13 Two letters of reference from previous clients TRAINING INFORMATION 14 - 15 Training tips for your trip 2 AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS CLIMBING IN THE ALPS MONT BLANC, MATTERHORN, & THE EIGER TRIP DESCRIPTION We have been Guiding for well over a decade in the Swiss and French Alps. The Alps are one of our favorite destinations! We begin in the charming town of Chamonix, France. Chamonix is considered the world capital of alpinism, where easy access and quality climbing is a key characteristic. Chamo- nix is situated at the foot of the Mont Blanc Massif. From anywhere within Chamonix, we have impres- sive views of the highest point in Western Europe, Mont Blanc, reaching an altitude of 15,771 feet. 3 Mont Blanc will be our first objective on this trip. We do a spectacular traverse via Mont Blanc du Tacul, Mount Maudit, and finally summit Mont Blanc, then descend via the Gouter route, on the other side of the range! The climb is absolutely spectacular! We are constantly surrounded by some of the most beautiful glaciated peaks in the world. We then move to Zermatt, Switzerland to tackle our next objective, the Matterhorn (14,691 feet). One of the most beautiful peaks in the Alps, the Matterhorn speaks for itself raising 9,500 feet above Zer- matt, dominating the town with its majestic presence. Our route will follow the original route climbed by Edward Whymper in 1865, “The Hornli Ridge”. This route is a spectacular granite rock climb, with occasional snow patches and a final snowy summit ridge. Our last adventure takes us to Grindelwald, located in the heart of the Bernese Oberland, in Switzer- land. This beautiful Swiss village, and the valley in which it sits, epitomize the typical Swiss alpine set- ting. Grindelwald is situated at the foot of the impressive Eigers north face and majestic peaks like the Monch, and the Jungfrau. Our objective here is to climb the Eiger via a semi technical rock arete called the Mittellegi Ridge. Depending on conditions we also have the option to climb the easier south ridge of the Eiger. The Eiger is a fun climb and a very attainable summit. This peak has a false reputation of being a “killer mountain” based on the history of the climbs attempted on its infamous North face. Participants must be in excellent physical condition and some rock and snow climbing experience is required. AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS CLIMBING IN THE ALPS MONT BLANC, MATTERHORN, & THE EIGER ITINERARY COST INCLUDES YOU ARE RESPONSIBLE FOR 4 Professional Mountain Guides, all local transpor- Flights and transportation to Chamonix and from tation except train to the Eiger from Grindelwald Grindelwald, Train to the Eiger, personal equip- (train, bus, téléphérique), all community gear ment, food in towns, hotels in town, *extra nights (ropes, hardware, medical kit, radios, etc.), food in alpine huts if needed, passport, personal items while in the mountains, and one hut day. and services (laundry, drinks, tips, etc.), and ex- penses incurred in the event of a rescue. AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS ITINERARY DAY 1: Team meets in Chamonix, France. 14,691’. Return to the Hut, and possibly down to Equipment check and afternoon briefing at the Zermatt. Connect with train to Sion. hotel. Dinner in one of the many fine restaurants DAY 7: Travel to Grindelwald, Switzerland our of Chamonix. final destination located in the heart of the Ber- DAY 2: The trip starts with a one-day ascent nese Oberland where we will begin our climb of of the Cosmiques Arete (12,600’). The idea is to the Eiger. One of the major European peaks, the get familiarized with the Mont Blanc Massif and Eiger speaks for itself. to begin our acclimatization for Mont Blanc. We DAY 8: Aboard the Jungfraujoh Railway, an get to the base via téléphérique and climb this amazing engineering feat, this cog railway will beautiful and classic mixed route on high quality take us actually through the infamous North Face. Chamonix granite. Easy scrambling. We disembark and climb to the Mittellegi Hut. DAY 3: Weather depending we may climb a DAY 9: Weather permitting, we climb the Mittel- peak in the Mont Blanc Massif /or head to Mont legi Ridge, an exposed and exciting ridge that will Blanc the next day. take us all the way to the Eiger summit. Descend DAY 4: Begin climb of Mont Blanc. We have to the Hut and possibly Grindelwald. several alternative routes to choose from. De- DAY 10: Train to Geneva, Fly home or continue pending on conditions, most likely we will ascend traveling in Europe. 5 via Mont Blanc du Tacul and Mont Maudit. After spending the night at an alpine hut we have an NOTE: *Aventuras Patagonicas will cover only one early start toward the summit of Mont Blanc, the hut day (night, dinner and breakfast) per peak. Only highest point in Western Europe (15,771’) and one night at each hut is needed to accomplish each a heavily glaciated mountain offering spectacu- peak, however if a second night is needed due to lar snow and ice climbing. Our routes follow the poor weather you will be responsible to cover that ad- tremendous glaciers that cover the North mand ditional night. West side of Mont Blanc. Late return to Chamo- nix and dinner! This itinerary is intended to be a guideline only, weather days and rest days are always a possibility DAY 5: Travel to Zermatt, Switzerland where while on a climbing trip. our next objective is the prominent Matterhorn, one of the world’s most classic climbs. Spend the night at Hornli Hut. DAY 6: Early start. We have a very long day ahead, beginning our climb of the Hornli Ridge with headlamps. Challenging and fun rock climb- ing will take us to the Matterhorn summit at AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS ALPS EQUIPMENT LIST FEET • Socks, thick wool or synthetic - 2-3 pair (outer socks) • thin silk , synthetic, or wool - 2 pair (inner sock ) • Cotton or synthetic socks - 2 pair • Climbing boots: Single leather boots are best. Any single leather model with binding (clip-on) crampon use will do. Plastic double mountaineering boots are too much for the Eiger and the Matterhorn, you can still use them but they make the climbing much harder. They can be good for the Mont Blanc, but it is best to have just one pair of good leather boots. • Sturdy approach shoes or tennis shoes • Rock shoes (make sure they fit with socks on). These are for other climbs in case of poor weather • Gaitors UPPER BODY Lightweight synthetic or wool long underwear top - 2 • 6 • Midweight synthetic or wool long underwear top - 1 • Fleece coat or similar weight down or synthetic microlight puffy • Breathable windproof and water resistant outer jacket, such as goretex, with hood • Down Vest, for Mont Blanc only can be a good idea for cold mornings. • Cotton or synthetic T-shirts - 3 or 4 LOWER BODY • Lightweight synthetic or wool long underwear bot- toms- 1 pair • Climbing Pants (Scholler fabric is best) Patagonia, Mt hardwear, Marmot, Arcterix, etc will work. • Breathable windproof and water resistent pants or bibs, such as Goretex (full length side zippers recom- mended) • Shorts - 1 pair AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS HANDS • Insulated Finger Gloves (windproof and water resis- tent) • Gloves, polypropylene or capilene - 1 pair HEAD • Ski hat, wool or fleece • Lightweight balaclava, wool, polypropylene or capilene • Baseball cap 7 PACK • 1 1/2 day pack AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS PERSONALS • Head lamp and 2 sets extra batteries • Sun glasses • Sun screen lotion SPF 29 - 1 tube • Sun screen lip protection - 1 stick • Water bottles (2 )nalgene -1 quart capacity each, wide mouth • Toothbrush and toothpaste • Toilet paper - 1/2 roll • 1 Large duffle bag (to carry gear around) TECHNICAL EQUIPMENT • Ice axe • Crampons, 12 points. Binding (clip on), non-rigid recommended. • Seat harness 8 • Carabiners, 4 regular, 3 locking • Climbing helmet OPTIONALS • Camera • Journal, pencil, book , i-pod • Cotton bandana • All terrain sandals • Hydrating system, such as camel bags, however for Mont Blanc you still need reg water bottles since the tube most likely will freeze while climbing Mont Blanc. AVENTURAS PATAGONICAS MOUNTAIN GUIDES [email protected] - www.patagonicas.com CLIMBING IN THE ALPS REFERENCES Please feel free to contact any of these previous Aventuras Patagonicas clients • Pierre-Luc Blais, Quebec, Canada 819-570-4347 • Shauna Sielecki, Calgary, Alberta 403.473.4074 [email protected] [email protected] • Shauna Sielecki, Calgary, Alberta 403-473-4074 • Keith Black, Gainesville, Va [email protected] [email protected] • Mike Danaher, Littleton, CO 303-932-0127 • Troy McMahan, Oceanside, CA 555-555-5555 [email protected] [email protected] • Louise McEvoy, Orange County, CA • Bruce Terry [email protected] [email protected] • Neil Halsey, Quebec, Canada +1 514 426 2459 • Simon James, London, UK Simon.
Recommended publications
  • 1961 Climbers Outing in the Icefield Range of the St
    the Mountaineer 1962 Entered as second-class matter, April 8, 1922, at Post Office in Seattle, Wash., under the Act of March 3, 1879. Published monthly and semi-monthly during March and December by THE MOUNTAINEERS, P. 0. Box 122, Seattle 11, Wash. Clubroom is at 523 Pike Street in Seattle. Subscription price is $3.00 per year. The Mountaineers To explore and study the mountains, forests, and watercourses of the Northwest; To gather into permanent form the history and traditions of this region; To preserve by the encouragement of protective legislation or otherwise the natural beauty of Northwest America; To make expeditions into these regions in fulfillment of the above purposes; To encourage a spirit of good fellowship among all lovers of outdoor Zif e. EDITORIAL STAFF Nancy Miller, Editor, Marjorie Wilson, Betty Manning, Winifred Coleman The Mountaineers OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES Robert N. Latz, President Peggy Lawton, Secretary Arthur Bratsberg, Vice-President Edward H. Murray, Treasurer A. L. Crittenden Frank Fickeisen Peggy Lawton John Klos William Marzolf Nancy Miller Morris Moen Roy A. Snider Ira Spring Leon Uziel E. A. Robinson (Ex-Officio) James Geniesse (Everett) J. D. Cockrell (Tacoma) James Pennington (Jr. Representative) OFFICERS AND TRUSTEES : TACOMA BRANCH Nels Bjarke, Chairman Wilma Shannon, Treasurer Harry Connor, Vice Chairman Miles Johnson John Freeman (Ex-Officio) (Jr. Representative) Jack Gallagher James Henriot Edith Goodman George Munday Helen Sohlberg, Secretary OFFICERS: EVERETT BRANCH Jim Geniesse, Chairman Dorothy Philipp, Secretary Ralph Mackey, Treasurer COPYRIGHT 1962 BY THE MOUNTAINEERS The Mountaineer Climbing Code· A climbing party of three is the minimum, unless adequate support is available who have knowledge that the climb is in progress.
    [Show full text]
  • America's Highest Peak Now Measures 6962 Metres!
    America’s highest peak now measures 6962 metres! At 6,962 Metres on Aconcagua in January 2001: Climber Gianpetro Verza has just mounted the terre- strial reflector signal to enable the classical terrestrial survey with tacheometres from the valley, and he has fixed on the top the Leica GPS 530 antenna. This configura- The highest mountain of The 7242 kilometre-long mountains are “growing” tion allowed at the same time mea- the Americas is only 38.17 Andes are the longest or "shrinking". From now on, surement in both technologies with meters short of seven mountain chain in the world. however, with technology high accuracy. Verza has put the thousand. The indications The Swiss Matthias and systems providing a Leica GPS530 terminal, the same on maps of the precise Zurbriggen was the first reproducible accuracy of a equipment as used on Kilimanjaro, elevation of America’s man to conquer Aconcagua few millimetres, it will be before him on the summit. highest peak, Mt Aconca- on 14 January 1897. In 2001 possible to precisely measu- gua, will have to be correc- it was with the most modern re the summits and record re-surveyed using the same ted and increased by two GPS measurement techno- their vertical and horizontal GPS equipment from Leica metres. This is the result of logy from Switzerland, that movements. Geosystems. an Italian-Argentinian the exact mountain height Scientific Expedition led by was re-determined. After Mt Everest and On Mt Everest, re-measured Geologist Giorgio Poretti. Mt Kilimanjaro now also in 1992 by an Italian- Previously
    [Show full text]
  • Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes
    Mountaineering War and Peace at High Altitudes 2–5 Sackville Street Piccadilly London W1S 3DP +44 (0)20 7439 6151 [email protected] https://sotherans.co.uk Mountaineering 1. ABBOT, Philip Stanley. Addresses at a Memorial Meeting of the Appalachian Mountain Club, October 21, 1896, and other 2. ALPINE SLIDES. A Collection of 72 Black and White Alpine papers. Reprinted from “Appalachia”, [Boston, Mass.], n.d. [1896]. £98 Slides. 1894 - 1901. £750 8vo. Original printed wrappers; pp. [iii], 82; portrait frontispiece, A collection of 72 slides 80 x 80mm, showing Alpine scenes. A 10 other plates; spine with wear, wrappers toned, a good copy. couple with cracks otherwise generally in very good condition. First edition. This is a memorial volume for Abbot, who died on 44 of the slides have no captioning. The remaining are variously Mount Lefroy in August 1896. The booklet prints Charles E. Fay’s captioned with initials, “CY”, “EY”, “LSY” AND “RY”. account of Abbot’s final climb, a biographical note about Abbot Places mentioned include Morteratsch Glacier, Gussfeldt Saddle, by George Herbert Palmer, and then reprints three of Abbot’s Mourain Roseg, Pers Ice Falls, Pontresina. Other comments articles (‘The First Ascent of Mount Hector’, ‘An Ascent of the include “Big lunch party”, “Swiss Glacier Scene No. 10” Weisshorn’, and ‘Three Days on the Zinal Grat’). additionally captioned by hand “Caution needed”. Not in the Alpine Club Library Catalogue 1982, Neate or Perret. The remaining slides show climbing parties in the Alps, including images of lady climbers. A fascinating, thus far unattributed, collection of Alpine climbing.
    [Show full text]
  • Mountaineering Books Under £10
    Mountaineering Books Under £10 AUTHOR TITLE PUBLISHER EDITION CONDITION DESCRIPTION REFNo PRICE AA Publishing Focus On The Peak District AA Publishing 1997 First Edition 96pp, paperback, VG Includes walk and cycle rides. 49344 £3 Abell Ed My Father's Keep. A Journey Of Ed Abell 2013 First Edition 106pp, paperback, Fine copy The book is a story of hope for 67412 £9 Forgiveness Through The Himalaya. healing of our most complicated family relationships through understanding, compassion, and forgiveness, peace for ourselves despite our inability to save our loved ones from the ravages of addiction, and strength for the arduous yet enriching journey. Abraham Guide To Keswick & The Vale Of G.P. Abraham Ltd 20 page booklet 5890 £8 George D. Derwentwater Abraham Modern Mountaineering Methuen & Co 1948 3rd Edition 198pp, large bump to head of spine, Classic text from the rock climbing 5759 £6 George D. Revised slight slant to spine, Good in Good+ pioneer, covering the Alps, North dw. Wales and The Lake District. Abt Julius Allgau Landshaft Und Menschen Bergverlag Rudolf 1938 First Edition 143pp, inscription, text in German, VG- 10397 £4 Rother in G chipped dw. Aflalo F.G. Behind The Ranges. Parentheses Of Martin Secker 1911 First Edition 284pp, 14 illusts, original green cloth, Aflalo's wide variety of travel 10382 £8 Travel. boards are slightly soiled and marked, experiences. worn spot on spine, G+. Ahluwalia Major Higher Than Everest. Memoirs of a Vikas Publishing 1973 First Edition 188pp, Fair in Fair dw. Autobiography of one of the world's 5743 £9 H.P.S. Mountaineer House most famous mountaineers.
    [Show full text]
  • JAMES HART DYKE Whymper’S Mountains 150 Years on JAMES HART DYKE Whymper’S Mountains 150 Years On
    JAMES HART DYKE Whymper’s Mountains 150 years on JAMES HART DYKE Whymper’s Mountains 150 years on 12 - 25 November 2015 Monday - Friday, 10am - 5pm at John Mitchell Fine Paintings 44 Old Bond Street, London W1S 4GB All paintings are for sale unless otherwise stated Please contact William Mitchell on 020 7493 7567 [email protected] JOHN MITCHELL FINE PAINTINGS EST 1931 2 Over thirty-one days in June This catalogue has been compiled to accompany an 3 and July 1865, Whymper and exhibition of over thirty oil paintings and sketches by his guides climbed five James Hart Dyke made to commemorate a remarkable mountains and crossed series of first ascents by the Victorian artist-turned- eleven passes. Four of those summits were first ascents mountaineer, Edward Whymper (1840-1911). including the Grandes One hundred and fifty years ago, in 1865, Whymper became the first person to climb the Jorasses and the Aiguille Matterhorn; a triumph that concluded an extraordinary career as the most courageous Verte, ascending just over and determined mountaineer of his generation. In fact, it has been widely suggested that 100,000 feet in the process. Whymper was a generation ahead of his peers in terms of what he accomplished in the mountains. And he had done it all by the time he was twenty-five years old. This summer the narrative landscapist, James Hart Dyke, spent his own ‘season’ in the Alps. For over two weeks in August he trekked and climbed, retracing where possible Whymper’s footsteps. Over a period of thirty-one days in June and July 1865, Whymper and his guides climbed five mountains and crossed eleven passes.
    [Show full text]
  • The South American Indian As a Pioneer Alpinist
    TI-lE SOUTH AMERICAN INDIAN AS A PIONEER ALPINIST 81 THE SOUTH AMERICAN INDIAN AS A PIONEER ALPINIST BY EVELIO ECHEVARRfA C. ECENTL Y it has become kno\vn that a number of very high Andean mountain tops had not only been ascended but also permanently occupied by the Indians, possibly as much as three centuries before de Saussure's ascent of Mont Blanc. They climbed peaks of up to 22,ooo ft., they constructed shelters on or near their tops, and they used the high places as watch-towers or as sacrificial shrines. Some authorities believe that this activity took place as early as the late four­ teenth century, though we cannot prove that some of it did not take place long after, possibly as late as the nineteenth century. These Indian accomplishments have been left unmentioned in practi­ cally all mountaineering history books. In this article, which may be the first to attempt a comprehensive survey,1 my purpose is to review briefly the location and the nature of each discovery. The area in which these Indian mountain ascents took place is what in physical geography is known as the Atacama desert (although this name is nowadays used in political and cultural geography for a much more restricted area). It is a treeless, sandy and volcanic waste-land seldom visited by mountaineers. It stretches from the neighbourhood of Arequipa, in Peru, as far south as Elqui in Chile; to the east it reaches the Andean slopes that face the jungles of Argentina and Bolivia, and to the west, the Pacific Ocean.
    [Show full text]
  • The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011
    The Boardman Tasker Prize 2011 Adjudication by Barry Imeson I would like to start by thanking my two distinguished co-judges, Lindsay Griffin and Bernard Newman, for ensuring that we have all arrived at this year’s award in good health and still on speaking terms. We met at the BMC on 9 September to agree a shortlist based on what, in our view, constituted ‘mountain literature’ and what also met the Award criterion of being an original work that made an outstanding contribution to mountain literature. We then considered the twenty three books that had been entered and, with no small difficulty, produced a shortlist of five. We would like to start with the non-shortlisted books. As judges we were conscious of the effort required to write a book and we want to thank all the authors who provided such a variety of enjoyable, and often thought-provoking, reads. We were, however, particularly impressed by two books, which though not shortlisted, we believe have made welcome additions to the history of mountaineering. The first of these was Prelude to Everest by Ian Mitchell & George Rodway. Their book sheds new light on the correspondence between Hinks and Collie and includes Kellas’s neglected 1920 paper A Consideration of the Possibility of Ascending Mount Everest. This is a long overdue and serious attempt to re-habilitate Kellas, a modest and self-effacing man. Kellas was an important mountaineer, whose ascent of Pauhunri in North East Sikkim was, at that time, the highest summit in the world trodden by man. His research into the effects of altitude on climbers was ahead of its time.
    [Show full text]
  • The Aconcagua Expedition
    The Aconcagua Expedition Steve took some time recently to talk with us about what we could expect of the Aconcagua Expedition. Six people form the Expedition Team, flying in from around the country. They’ll gather in Mendoza Argentina, altitude about 2,500 feet at the base of the Andes Mountains. It is summer in South America and the temps may reach 90 degrees on Friday. A nice break from the snows of Alaska! From there on Day 3, they will take a taxi (or several taxis to hold the Team and all their gear) to Puente del Inca, altitude 8,900 feet. In the Andes, it will be cooler, maybe reaching the 60’s during the day. At this point, the Team will be at an elevation above all major cities in the US (Denver is only 5,900 feet, and your commercial plane is pressurized to simulate about 7,000 feet; individual mountains in a number of states do have higher elevations). And this is where the climb really begins. They will be taking the “Normal” route. Day 4 is an uphill hike, with mules to carry their gear, up to Confluencia (11,000 feet). Days 4-6 will be spent in the climb and adjusting to the higher elevation. The camp is almost luxurious, as nearby villagers know climbers are avid customers of pizza and Internet. From here on, Team members will carry their own gear as they climb. Each person has approximately 120 pounds. They can carry about 60 lbs at a time. To handle this situation, they practice a routine that adheres to the mountaineer wisdom of "Climb high, sleep low".
    [Show full text]
  • Chamonix to Zermatt
    CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT About the Author Kev Reynolds first visited the Alps in the 1960s, and returned there on numerous occasions to walk, trek or climb, to lead mountain holidays, devise multi-day routes or to research a series of guidebooks covering the whole range. A freelance travel writer and lecturer, he has a long associa- tion with Cicerone Press which began with his first guidebook to Walks and Climbs in the Pyrenees. Published in 1978 it has grown through many editions and is still in print. He has also written more than a dozen books on Europe’s premier mountain range, a series of trekking guides to Nepal, a memoir covering some of his Himalayan journeys (Abode of the Gods) and a collection of short stories and anecdotes harvested from his 50 years of mountain activity (A Walk in the Clouds). Kev is a member of the Alpine Club and Austrian Alpine Club. He was made an honorary life member of the Outdoor Writers and Photographers Guild; SELVA (the Société d’Etudes de la Littérature de Voyage Anglophone), CHAMONIX TO ZERMATT and the British Association of International Mountain Leaders (BAIML). After a lifetime’s activity, his enthusiasm for the countryside in general, and mountains in particular, remains undiminished, and during the win- THE CLASSIC WALKER’S HAUTE ROUTE ter months he regularly travels throughout Britain and abroad to share that enthusiasm through his lectures. Check him out on www.kevreynolds.co.uk by Kev Reynolds Other Cicerone guides by the author 100 Hut Walks in the Alps Tour of the Oisans: GR54 Alpine Points
    [Show full text]
  • Mountaineering Ventures
    70fcvSs )UNTAINEERING Presented to the UNIVERSITY OF TORONTO LIBRARY by the ONTARIO LEGISLATIVE LIBRARY 1980 v Digitized by the Internet Archive in 2010 with funding from University of Toronto http://www.archive.org/details/mountaineeringveOObens 1 £1. =3 ^ '3 Kg V- * g-a 1 O o « IV* ^ MOUNTAINEERING VENTURES BY CLAUDE E. BENSON Ltd. LONDON : T. C. & E. C. JACK, 35 & 36 PATERNOSTER ROW, E.C. AND EDINBURGH PREFATORY NOTE This book of Mountaineering Ventures is written primarily not for the man of the peaks, but for the man of the level pavement. Certain technicalities and commonplaces of the sport have therefore been explained not once, but once and again as they occur in the various chapters. The intent is that any reader who may elect to cull the chapters as he lists may not find himself unpleasantly confronted with unfamiliar phraseology whereof there is no elucidation save through the exasperating medium of a glossary or a cross-reference. It must be noted that the percentage of fatal accidents recorded in the following pages far exceeds the actual average in proportion to ascents made, which indeed can only be reckoned in many places of decimals. The explanation is that this volume treats not of regular routes, tariffed and catalogued, but of Ventures—an entirely different matter. Were it within his powers, the compiler would wish ade- quately to express his thanks to the many kind friends who have assisted him with loans of books, photographs, good advice, and, more than all, by encouraging countenance. Failing this, he must resort to the miserably insufficient re- source of cataloguing their names alphabetically.
    [Show full text]
  • Where Does the Chilean Aconcagua River Come From? Use of Natural Tracers for Water Genesis Characterization in Glacial and Periglacial Environments
    water Article Where Does the Chilean Aconcagua River Come from? Use of Natural Tracers for Water Genesis Characterization in Glacial and Periglacial Environments Sebastián Andrés Crespo 1,* ,Céline Lavergne 2,3 , Francisco Fernandoy 4 , Ariel A. Muñoz 1, Leandro Cara 5 and Simón Olfos-Vargas 1 1 Instituto de Geografía, Facultad de Ciencias del Mar y Geografía, Pontificia Universidad Católica de Valparaíso, Valparaíso 2362807, Chile; [email protected] (A.A.M.); [email protected] (S.O.-V.) 2 Laboratory of Aquatic Environmental Research, Centro de Estudios Avanzados, Universidad de Playa Ancha, Viña del Mar 2581782, Chile; [email protected] 3 HUB Ambiental UPLA, Universidad de Playa Ancha, Valparaíso 234000, Chile 4 Laboratorio de Análisis Isotópico (LAI), Facultad de Ingeniería, Universidad Andrés Bello, Viña del Mar 2531015, Chile; [email protected] 5 Instituto Argentino de Nivología, Glaciología y Ciencias Ambientales (IANIGLA-CONICET), Mendoza 5500, Argentina; [email protected] * Correspondence: [email protected] Received: 1 August 2020; Accepted: 12 September 2020; Published: 21 September 2020 Abstract: The Aconcagua river basin (Chile, 32 ◦S) has suffered the effects of the megadrought over the last decade. The severe snowfall deficiency drastically modified the water supply to the catchment headwaters. Despite the recognized snowmelt contribution to the basin, an unknown streamflow buffering effect is produced by glacial, periglacial and groundwater inputs, especially in dry periods. Hence, each type of water source was characterized and quantified for each season, through the combination of stable isotope and ionic analyses as natural water tracers. The δ18O and electric conductivity were identified as the key parameters for the differentiation of each water source.
    [Show full text]
  • One Hundred Years Ago (With Extracts from the Alpine Journal)
    CA RUSSELL One Hundred Years Ago (with extracts from the Alpine Journal) (Plates 57-61) he fIrst attempt to ascend Mont Blanc in the twentieth centuryl was T made on Thursday, but without success. Even before the Pierre Pointue was reached the snow was found to be so deep that racquettes had to be used, while at the Grand Junction of the Glacier de Taconna progress was rendered very difficult from the same cause. On reaching Grands Mulets (10,007 feet), it was decided to give up the task of reaching the actual summit owing to the great depth of the snow and the intense cold, and signs ofwind. Moreover, one of the guides was suffering from frostbite. The party, consisting of Mr. Crofts and the guides Joseph Demarchi, Fran~ois Mugnier and Jules Monard spent the night at the Grands Mulets, and descended to Chamonix next morning. The severe conditions experienced by Mr Crofts' party on 17 January 1901 were prolonged by exceptionally cold winds which persisted for several weeks in many Alpine regions. Although little mountaineering was possi­ ble the fust ski ascents of two peaks were completed: on 30 March Henry Hoek and Ernst Schottelius climbed the Dammastock; and on 28 May Schottelius, accompanied by Friedrich Reichert, reached the summit of the Oberaarhorn. A period of fine weather which commenced in May prompted an early start to the climbing season and by the end of the fIrst week in June a number of successful expeditions had been completed. Throughout Switzerland glorious, warm weather is being experienced, and with it Alpine climbing has begun in real earnest.
    [Show full text]