GRAEME WALLACE From the age of fi fteen, when he bought his fi rst SLR MATTERHORN camera, Graeme has enjoyed a love of photography, THE QUINTESSENTIAL MOUNTAIN eventually turning his hobby into the driver for his publishing business. He now specialises in photographing and publishing books on his native Scotland. ! e high peaks of the are quite simply magnifi cent; imposing; threatening; captivating.

During a visit to the while in his mid- Today, we can enjoy many of the great mountains from strategically placed mountain huts, twenties Graeme became captured by the mountains, and are able to explore them, confi dent that a phone call can instigate a helicopter rescue at and subsequently published his fi rst photographic book on the area. Since then he has focused on creating work almost any time; a benefi t that can all too easily be taken for granted. that presents Scotland at its best, travelling ever deeper up glens and climbing ever higher to produce captivating and Back in the early 1860s when fi rst saw the mountains, it was a more

evocative images. remote landscape. He was smitten by its remoteness and inspired to explore more deeply THEQUINTESSENTIALMOUNTAIN

While climbing was, initially, simply a reason to acquire and higher. Often traversing unchartered territory he found his purpose in life; his ultimate vantage points for photographs, over time, it often became objective quickly becoming the fi rst ascent of the ‘unclimbable’ Matterhorn. the primary objective, although always with camera close to hand. Whymper’s pioneering spirit, bravery and self-belief was in keeping with an era when the Victorians felt the world was theirs to conquer. Unlike most, Whymper did not seek fame In producing this book, Graeme has drawn on a culmination of over thirty years’ experience to realise his and glory, but instead, embarked on a more private mission, climbing imposing mountains most challenging and rewarding project to date. With no one had climbed before for his own personal reasons, which were never fully explained two years’ preparation, the objective was not only to or understood. scale the Matterhorn 150 years after it was fi rst climbed, but also to ascend the more challenging Italian side and As a result of his ambition, and drive in overcoming considerable adversity and hardship, he descend the popular Swiss side. Walking in the footsteps of became the most successful mountaineer of his day, ushering in the end of the Golden Age Edward Whymper, Graeme’s aim was to portray the many aspects of the Matterhorn through his photographs and of , and establishing the way for people of all abilities to enjoy the Alps. to illustrate why mankind has been both enraptured and beguiled by the mountain.

e Matterhorn is one of nature’s masterpieces and is unsurpassed by any other peak for access to its towering precipices. While some feel the need to climb to its summit, others are satisfi ed to gaze up at it in awe. Either way, it

is hoped that this book gives inspiration and an intimate GRAEMEWALLACE understanding of this quintessential mountain.

Commemorating the 150 th anniversary of the fi rst climb of the Matterhorn by Edward Whymper and his party in July,1865, this large-format pictorial book features over eighty photographs of the world’s most recognisable mountain, together with tantalising extracts from Whymper’s own book, e Ascent of the Matterhorn , and the narrative of Graeme Wallace’s attempt to reach the summit, 150 years later, in 2015. ¥ ¤ § 4 ¥ £ © ¨ § ¤ 4 ¥ ¡ ¦ ¦ ¡ 4 ¥ ¤ £ ¢ ¡ 4

GW PUBLISHING GW GRAEME WALLACE With extracts from ASCENT OF THE MATTERHORN EDWARD WHYMPER £30.00 PREFACE

       !                           I to survey his life when he finds himself slipping, he the book e Ascent of the Matterhorn , in which he had but a sorry account to give of himself. What is he describes his six years mountain scrambling in the Alps doing there, and what right has he to throw away the between 1860 and 1865, culminating in his eighth gift of life? attempt to ascend the Matterhorn. His work was !roughout his book, and particularly toward the end, descriptive, graphic and captivating and was supported Whymper gave his own more convincing response and by wood-engraved illustrations, created by Whymper reasoning for climbing, and frequently relays some of the himself. !e book graphically relays the challenges, emotion and elation upon reaching a summit or success. emotions and decisions that Whymper and his Simply put: ‘a panorama extending over as much ground companions faced, and highlights the same as the whole of England is one worth taking some trouble considerations that today’s’ mountaineers still confront. to see’. It is true that the views are often breathtaking: e Ascent of the Matterhorn was published in 1880 and more so than words and pictures can relay. But there is was a revised copy of his earlier book, Scrambles Amongst more that drives people to take up the relatively high- the Alps , which was first published in 1871. Scrambles risk sport. !e sense of accomplishment at having pitted Amongst the Alps is now currently available as part of oneself against the elements and attaining a difficult the National Geographic Adventure Classics series. goal provides lasting character traits that make us more Sadly, it is often the failures, mistakes and tragedies that fulfilled and better able to deal with everyday decisions grab our attention and in his text, Whymper never shies and challenges. away from highlighting his own poor judgements or, Whymper goes on to say in his Preface: ‘!e ablest indeed, the mistakes and shortcomings of others. pens have failed, and I think must always fail, to give a !ere were mistakes made, not only by Whymper, but true idea of the grandeur of the Alps. !e most minute also by a great many of the pioneering mountaineers; descriptions of the greatest writers do nothing more so much so that Queen Victoria questioned the viability than convey impressions that are entirely erroneous-the of the sport and consulted her Lord Chamberlain as to reader conjures up visions, it may be magnificent ones, whether mountain climbing should be made illegal. but they are infinitely inferior to the reality’. However, men and women were by then hooked and it !ere is certainly truth in this statement, but Whymper would have been impossible to reverse the tide of English deserves particular recognition for doing an outstanding ‘tourists’ wanting to set foot on the lofty peaks of the job in portraying the grandeur of the Alps and his time Alps. e Times newspaper was particularly questioning amongst the many soaring peaks. with an editorial on 27 th July, 1865: In this book, tribute is paid to Edward Whymper, not What is the use of scaling precipitous rocks, and being only for his climbing achievements, but also for his for half an hour at the top of the terrestrial globe? artistic talent and literary work. To commemorate the ere is use in the feats of sailors, of steeple-climbers, 150 th anniversary of Whymper’s crowning achievement, vane-cleaners, chimney sweepers, lovers, and other this book combines substantial extracts and illustrations adventurous professions. A man may be content to from e Ascent of the Matterhorn interwoven with my die in such a cause, for it is his life’s battle. But in the own story and photography, as I walk in some of the few short moments a member of the Alpine Club has footsteps of this pertinacious pioneering mountaineer.

iv - $ ATTERHORN THE QUINTESSENTIAL MOUNTAIN THE EAST FACE OF THE MATTERHORN FROM CONTENT     P " # ______v

Introduction ______12

Chapter One Edward Whymper ______13

Chapter Two !e Matterhorn ______15

Chapter !ree Mountaineering ______17

Chapter Four From the Preface of e Ascent of the Matterhorn ______19

Chapter Five 1860: First Explorations ______20

Chapter Six 1861: Mont Pelvoux and the Matterhorn ______57

Chapter Seven

1862: Renewed Attempts on the Matterhorn ______% ;

Chapter Eight

1863: Dent d’Hérens, and the Matterhorn ______% 24

Chapter Nine

1864: !e Aiguilles d’Arves, , , Aiguille de Tré-la-Tête and Aiguille d’Argentiére ___& 6 %

Chapter Ten % ; 1865: Grand Cornier, , , , and the Matterhorn ___ '

Afterword ______253

Author’s Log Preparations and Training ______23 Winter 2015 ______24 Spring 2015 ______69 Summer 2015 (Week One) ______99 Summer 2015 (Week Two) ______131 Summer 2015 (Week !ree) ______169 Summer 2015 ( 4,327m) ______213 Summer 2015 (Matterhorn 4,478m) ______233

vi - $ ATTERHORN THE QUINTESSENTIAL MOUNTAIN THE NORTH@EAST RIDGE CHAPTER ONE INTRODUCTION EDWARD WHYMPER      !                                D "         -                 , + * )    (   1 normal ascent for " most climbers. However, in order to scholarly men, such as scientists and men of the cloth! Highlands of Scotland, my climbing partner Mat Tams best experience some of Whymper’s ordeals, our plan the Golden Age of Alpine Climbing and Britain’s greatest Born in 1840, Edward Whymper was neither poor nor recounted the details of the story he had learned as a was to climb to the summit via the Lion Ridge and to then mountaineering achievement to date. Brought about by particularly wealthy, but had just sufficient capital to child about the first ascent of the Matterhorn, the most descend the Hörnli Ridge. It was hoped that this would the events that took place on the Matterhorn, it was the pay for his passion. He was the second of eleven children recognisable and iconic mountain in the world. It was in also provide a more interesting and challenging trip. end of one age but the beginning of a new one. Prior to born to Josiah Whymper. His father had left the security the Golden Age of Mountaineering, dominated by proud, this date, Edward Whymper had been mountaineering Upon learning that 2015 would be the 150 th anniversary of the family in Suffolk, which had fallen into financial self-assured and intrepid characters from the British Isles, — or more aptly ‘mountain-scrambling’ — for a mere of Edward Whymper’s and his party’s first ascent of the hardship, and settled in , making his own way as who were still enjoying their Victorian perspective of five years, and yet by comparative standards, had Matterhorn, I felt it would be only fitting to produce an artist, illustrator and wood-engraver; his company being superior and invincible. Exciting and daring, they quickly become one of the most experienced mountain this book in commemoration of their success, and in eventually becoming one of the most highly regarded were pioneering men, trail-blazing and seeking to be men of the age. He was a natural: strong, fit and fearless, recognition of Whymper’s wider achievements in the firms in London’s publishing arena. Edward was trained amongst the first, if not the first to scale the Alpine peaks. with a willingness to accept discomfort for the greater Alps. !is, in turn, meant numerous additional trips by his father as a wood draughtsman, and by the age reward. He was quick to learn the skills, was prepared Perhaps it was inevitable that our conversation would would be required in order to understand and portray of twenty had mastered his skill and was receiving to push boundaries, and crucially, was unafraid of what lead to us considering scaling the Matterhorn, and soon the Alps as Whymper saw them. commissions. the unknown might hold and of what deadly hurdle a date was set to make our dream a reality. Mat had, in Details of our experiences are recorded throughout might lie ahead. He had a good sense of direction and fact, made two previous trips to climb the infamous peak, the book, indicated by a light blue background to the was resourceful, determined, tactical and skilful. He but on both occasions was unable to make the attempt, page. A more detailed account can be read on the blog attacked the Alps with a vengeance, and was not simply owing to unsuitable weather. I was determined not to www.thematterhorn4478.com there for recreational or social reasons, which was the suffer the same fate and so the planning started for how case with most other English Alpinists. He was there to maximise our chances of success. At this time, we had to conquer and, in particular, to conquer the most not appreciated that the year we had planned to climb invincible of mountains: the Matterhorn. was also the 150 th anniversary of the first summit in 1865. Whymper never fully gained the level of respect that !e weather-window for climbing the more challenging he very much deserved from the Victorian public Alpine peaks is mid-July to early September. Our and among the English climbing community. He did, experience was that later would be better, so we agreed however, earn the respect and friendship of some of on the last week in August and first week in September for the best European mountain of the day ,and as our trip. We subsequently learnt that in 2014, no guides is so often the case with the British, was more highly went up on the Matterhorn until mid-August, which regarded overseas than at home. reaffirmed our reasoning and belief that our planning was sound. Nevertheless, allowing for some acclimatisation One characteristic that was an essential attribute to and knowing that an early snowfall would halt our plans, all Victorian mountaineers was wealth. In addition to we did everything possible to keep our options open, in the time away from work and the various travel costs, order to catch a good calm and clear two-day period. guides and porters were needed, and as the typical excursion was effectively an expedition, costs quickly Edward Whymper made a total of eight attempts to climb Clearly, Edward Whymper inherited the pioneering escalated. !us, the poor did not climb in the Alps. !e the Matterhorn, most of them from the Italian Liongrat spirit from his father and his grandfather, Nathaniel sport was generally considered to be a pastime for men (Lion) Ridge to the south-west, as any other route was Whymper, who had established a brewery in Ipswich. with power and heritage, and men held in high esteem. considered impossible. Whymper’s one and only attempt Nathaniel’s cousin was Sir William Whymper, a notable And so, it was the aristocracy, successful merchants from the Swiss, Hörnli Ridge to the north-east resulted physician in his day, who became Surgeon-Major to and businessman that first climbed the Alps, along with in success, and this route has subsequently become the the Coldstream Guards and Physician to the Duke of

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attracts keen skiers to the !eodul, benefitting from cable-carthe points side. on either it Today, would appear odd to hear of someone that bea of object an as Matterhorn the consider not did and for the mountaineering fraternity to ever think there was a time when man did not want to climb it. shepher earliest !e case. the precisely is this But it to be of considered the a throne pilgrims brave upon down rocks hurl would that a demon to home or written it was 1789 until Not people. simple these Saussure Horace botanist Swiss terms. admirable in climbed in 1787, the year following the first successful ascent, and noted of the Matterhorn ‘Its precipitous sides which give no hold to access’. the of means ve no afford to as such are snows, In 1818, Johann Gottfried primitiveEbel’s guidebook was translated into English. In it the mountain has three names: Silvius, Mont Cervin and Matterhorn. !e , which referred to it as doubt ‘one no of Alps’, the in obeliskswonderful the and splendid most area, the to in tourism ushering partin major a played with the affluent English arriving to actually admire or the mountainstudy first hand. !ese first ‘tourists’ will have seen the mountain in a way we imagine: peaceful, simple, isolated, magnificent. can only spec ‘a as it described Brockendon William 1825, In while Lord durin Minto, grandeur’, of indescribable words for impossible is ‘It claimed, 1830, in visit regular pyramid, of this of idea any immensity the in symmetrical form, as if it had been designed by architect’. Eminent philosopher and seasoned traveller James David Forbes went on to note, in wonderful peak 1841, in the Alps, unscaled and unscalable’. ‘the most And so, like a red rag to a bull, the stage was set for of its dream to ascent. gentry, men, primarily English Italians can take pride in knowing that the first

















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CHAPTER TWO is is unquestionably the king of the Alps, although at 4,478m (14,692 ft) it is not the tallest. It is, in the fact, sixth highest mountain in the Alps, and as part of the , is the eleventh highest peak in the range, of which 32 are above 4,000m (13,123 ft). Its solitary position and symmetrical pyramid shape make it appear particularly lofty and when indomitable viewed from the north and north-east, while from south the it as emerges hulk. a menacing From the Italian side to the south, uniform it and acute, appears but still less foreboding, dominating the scattered dwelling at its feet. So imperious was it that only a handful of Italians and Swiss who lived in worthwas orclimbed, be could believedit shadow, its as locals the of many by considered was It attempt. the a place where only spirits dwelt and that anyone who scaletried to it was mad and would suffer its wrath. the north of the Matterhorn lies the To bustling Swiss of town districtin the which of in Visp, is the canton of . At an elevation of 1,620m (5,310 ft), this has traditionally been, and still is, the hub and starting point for people visiting the mountain from the north. To the south lies the small Italian of town Breuil-Cervinia in the which has a town of the same name 9km (5.6 miles) further to the south. Simply referred to as ‘Breil’ by it sits ft)(6,581 2,006m above sea level, yet Whymper, a lush meadow enjoys setting. still !e quickest way to travel on foot between Zermatt and Breuil-Cervinia was over the !eodul pass at Pass, 3,295m (10,810 ft) a to the east of the Matterhorn. Whymper and his fellow ‘tourists’ relied towns. two the between transfer to pass ancient this on today wouldtravellers Few consider taking directthis route of 19km (12 miles), and will take the (141 228km mile) road trip instead. However, the novelty of skiing over the border between and S THE MATTERHORN o h st st at at to to lps lps res res up ned ned . . He held held ence ence oval oval time time lorers lorers

one one of the greatest mountaineers ever. Some of his may accomplishments not appear that impressive by but standards, today’s it must always be remembered that he usually went where no man had been before, refer any if little with unknown, the into venturing ft) (100,000 in 18 days in his year most prodigious was the first known to European climb above 6,000m Chimboraz summit to man first the being ft), (20,000 slightly being earth the to Owing year. same the in material material to guide him. He had to figure things for himself: out routes, techniques and ideas from whic benefit. greatly would mountaineers subsequent Among his achievements, he made the first ascent of dozens of met vertical Alpine 30,000 over up clocked peaks, and Englishman, more than any other in the Ecuadorian Andes in 1880. !ere doubt was as to some whether he actually reached the summit when he climbed it with brothers second a Jean-Antoine and it climb to proceeded he so Carrel, Louise in to shape, is be considered the furthe point from the centre of the beginning earth, of the and nineteenth century, was considered until the earth. on mountain highest the Key to his successes were his fitness and stamina th enabled his body to equal his mind in beyond pushing the on apparent boundaries. Although he had seen never a before his first mountain trip to the A to forty miles per day. Even in his fifties he remai in 1860, he was an ardent walker, regularly walking regularly in he 1860, was walker, an ardent active, once walking from London to at Edinburgh an day. per miles fifty-five of rate average and idiosyncrasies a with man was certainly Whymper have some which traits with time, his of product a against him. He may have been somewhat haughty, demanding and opinionated, but deserve successes Whymper his and man was brave and remarkable a exp greatest world’s the of those alongside seen be adventurers. and , r

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connections, connections, and certainly a respectable upbringing would Whymper not and Edward education, have felt Alp !e of peers his among place of out particularly Club, established just a few years earlier, in 1857 in earlier, years few a just established Club, And yet he appears not to have sought their favour, remaining somewhat of an outsider. A man with his own to working mission, his own agenda, but with no obvious reason for setting out on his othe conquests achievement. his of satisfaction the for than Focused and solitary single-minded, and reserved, h was not the easiest man to relate to; preferring th company of a few close friends by a campfire over m a not a was He bar. cramped a in men loud of gaggle outlook of a similar were you unless with climb to concluded have Some were. men Few stamina. equal of from this that Whymper struggled with relationships and maybe so. However, he did bond with those of similar determination, and won the respected of the him. with climbed who guides and mountaineers ti the of guides German and Italian French, Leading climbed with Whymper on numerous occasions, and he quickly developed a particularly strong bond wit Frenchman , who summed up as ‘above the Whymper range of ordinary mortals’ and ‘th heart’. own his after man impetuous unquestionably was force driving Whymper’s Although to be the first man to summit some of the remaining an became goal this and — peaks Alpine unconquered obsession with the Matterhorn — he clearly enjoyed scenery vast the in taking mountains, the on being drawing inspiration from being out amongst the raw nature. of elements As a boy, Whymper dreamed of becoming a but explorer it was to an produ commission artistic polar wood engravings of the Alps become for to course his on a Whymper set that publisher leading London C