RIDE 800 MILES OFF ROAD FROM DERBYSHIRE TO THE TIP OF MAINLAND SCOTLAND ON CYCLING UK’S NEWLY DEVISED ROUTE. MAX DARKINS IS YOUR GUIDE

42 cycle OCTOBER NOVEMBER 2019 Feature THE GREAT NORTH TRAIL

MAX DARKINS Author Max is the man behind the Rough Ride Guide series of mountain bike route guides

CYCLINGUK.ORG cycle 43 THE GREAT NORTH TRAIL FEATURE

Above: Loch Laggan, edge of the Cairngorms Below: A Highland encounter Previous page: Pennine Bridleway near Dufton

eep in the Scottish I wanted it to happen and that I hopefully Highlands, in a remote would ride it myself one day.” glen with far-reaching Although England and Wales already views in all directions and have 16 National Trails, only two of these not a soul in sight, I stop in England (the Pennine Bridleway and pedalling and roll to a the South Downs Way) can currently stop. I look down the long be ridden from end to end by cyclists valley and up to the mountainous peaks and horse riders. In 1968, Cycling UK in the distance, daunted by the journey (then CTC) campaigned and won the with nature, to connect with and explore that lies ahead. Only by looking back right to cycle on bridleways, while the the countryside and to travel through and seeing how far I’ve come am I able Land Reform (Scotland) Act 2003 allowed landscapes that have barely changed in to reassure myself that I can do this. riders there the same access as walkers. hundreds of years.” “This is epic,” I say out loud. Together, these factors have made the I’m cycling the Great North Trail, a Great North Trail project possible. THE PEAK DISTRICT new long-distance cycle route devised “Finalising the Great North Trail is The Great North Trail is not designed to by Cycling UK, which stretches from the first step to giving people more be the easiest, most direct, or fastest route, the southern Peak District to the tip opportunities to explore Britain’s but one that provides stunning scenery, of Scotland, covering over 800 miles countryside on a bike, whether it’s for good riding, and adventures, whilst being (1,300km) of trails and 14,000 metres of a long-distance challenge or just for a suitable for walkers, cyclists, and in many climbing. The vision, ultimately, is to join day’s ride,” said Sophie Gordon, Cycling places horse riders. it with another starting at Land’s End, UK’s off-road campaigns officer. “Cycling To test it, I set off from the Peak District culminating in the first official off-road UK’s vision is of a connected network one sunny morning this summer. The Land’s End to John o’ Groats (LEJOG) route. of National Trails that can be enjoyed route kicks off along the well-surfaced and by everyone, whether they are walking, signposted High Peak Trail. This family- TRAILBLAZING cycling, or riding a horse.” friendly traffic-free route provides an It’s an ambitious project. Cycling UK’s This aspiration reflects the original easy introduction to an epic ride. By the Sam Jones told me how it came about: vision of Sir Arthur Hobhouse, whose time I’d reached the rougher, tougher and “The idea for an off-road LEJOG came as a 1947 report proposed the creation of literally grittier Dark Peak, I had plenty of eureka moment last September. We were long-distance paths and bridleways miles under my wheels and was looking sitting around a table with colleagues, connecting the new National Parks: “There forward to the wilder moorland trails. trying to come up with an idea that should be continuous routes which will The ancient roads and moorland trails would excite the wider public whilst enable walkers and riders to travel the through the northern Dark Peak were a also furthering Cycling UK’s ambition for length and breadth of the National Parks, stark contrast to the lush green, rolling connecting the National Trails. When we moving as little as possible on the motor fields I’d left behind, especially as I’d looked at the map, and saw where the roads,” he wrote. “This isn’t about racing, chosen to ride the harder alternative route National Trails were, and where our it’s not about endurance or pitching via Mam Tor and Jacob’s Ladder. It was planned routes sat, the idea of yourself against the elements, an interesting experience with a fully- DOWN

Joolze Dymond and Max Darkins Max and Dymond Joolze an off-road LEJOG took shape. it’s about something more loaded and rigid bike rather than the full- As soon as the seed was SOUTH primeval; the opportunity suspension bike I’d usually ride on this Our unofficial 150- Photos: planted, all I knew was that to be close to, and at one terrain. As well as arm-pump, it added to mile National Trail from Surrey to Dover: cyclinguk.org/ CYCLINGUK.ORG cycle 45 northdownsway THE GREAT NORTH TRAIL FEATURE

Right: Lairig Ghallabhaich track just past Bridge of Balgie Below: Checking the route near Sulber Nick on Ingleborough

the sense of adventure. I COULDN’T farmland and wooded dales forested area, I couldn’t believe how far I Next up: the South behind and climbing over was travelling in England without seeing Pennines. It’s a place that BELIEVE HOW stark and barren moorland. anyone, only startled deer. Then I arrived has lots of great riding, FAR I WAS Often called England’s at a hive of activity deep within the forest: with moorland crossings on TRAVELLING last wilderness, the North Kielder Water & Forest Park, the biggest packhorse trails combined Pennines has the widest man-made lake in Northern Europe and with steep, technical, rocky IN ENGLAND diversity of rare habitats in the largest planted forest in England. trails down into the valleys. WITHOUT Britain. This 250-square-mile location offers However, the tough hills, Haltwhistle in plenty of adventure, with wild camping, grassy terrain and numerous SEEING Northumberland marks a water sports, walks, and seven cycling gates, coupled with a loaded ANYONE boundary: Hadrian’s Wall. trails for all abilities. It’s a wonderful place bike and consecutive days Built to guard the frontier of to explore further with the whole family. of riding, began to take their the Roman Empire in AD122, You can, like I did, include some of the toll. It was with great relief it now sits 30km south of the red graded man-made trails into the Great I finally rolled into town for Scottish border. There is a North Trail route. my overnight stop. 277km Hadrian’s Wall (NCN72) Cycle Route, After a pleasant evening refuelling, which runs from the east coast to the west, SCOTTISH LOWLANDS chatting with locals and trying some following the wall. My journey, however, From Kielder, I descended to Scotland. regional cuisine, I was reminded that it continued north. Even though Haltwhistle The landscape remained sparsely isn’t just the riding or terrain that makes claims to be at the geographical centre of populated but there was a more subtle epic rides special. It’s also the experiences Britain, I wasn’t even halfway along the change: different access laws. Despite and interactions with the people along Great North Trail. cycling alone, I felt the way, the different accents, habits, North of the wall was like no-man’s more welcome and local food – which I was eating in land. Riding through this expansive and relaxed. abundance to fuel my riding.

NORTH ALONG THE PENNINES Entering the Yorkshire Dales felt like a geology field trip. If you’ve never seen Making both ends meet limestone pavement, a dry valley, sinkhole, or scar, you cannot fail to be impressed. The Great North Trail Other interlinking London to The limestone landscape also provides is a part of Cycling UK’s linear trails are also in the Land’s End numerous waterfalls and caves, such larger vision, with this pipeline. For example, along some iconic as Gaping Gill. Fell Beck pours over a route ultimately to be one is planned that will trails. There will also be lip of rock here, falling 98 metres (322ft). connected to another link Stonehenge with the shorter circular (day) rides It’s the highest unbroken waterfall in from the south west to Surrey Hills, the North that branch off. England. The stream resurges nearby the Peak District. That will Downs, the South Downs You can download a in the enormous and eerily beautiful start at Land’s End and link and the Ridgeway. You’ll GPX file of the Great North Ingleborough Cave. up to create an off-road be able to ride from Dover Trail from cyclinguk.org/ Before long I was leaving the lush lower version of LEJOG. to Cape Wrath or from great-north-trail.

CYCLINGUK.ORG cycle 47 FEATURE THE GREAT NORTH TRAIL

Above: The Pentland Hills, Edinburgh Below: Lambley Viaduct in Northumberland Bottom: Max’s rigid, 29+ Surly Krampus

Knowing you are able to ride on any What bike for marathon riding? track is liberating and exciting. There are so many to explore here: old drove roads, With a long on your back to hillside access tracks, old military roads, and varied route a minimum and and more. like this, there spread luggage The Great North Trail runs through will always be around the bike the Tweed Valley, an MTB mecca that an element of instead. Invest in attracts cyclists from all over the UK, nearly at journey’s end. I wasn’t. The compromise. The a frame bag, seat thanks to its numerous top quality routes Highlands are huge. I cycled through right bike will bag and bar bag. and facilities. I could easily have spent remote mountain ranges on old military depend on you When packing, a few fun-filled days there. Instead, I roads and along access tracks leading to and your priorities put lightweight continued over the rolling hills of the hydro power stations. e.g. comfort, gear and snacks Pentlands, before a lovely serene, canal The tracks went on and on, into a true efficiency, speed. on the handlebar, towpath led me into the bustling streets wilderness, with limited facilities and no I’d recommend a items that need of Edinburgh. sight of anyone for hours at a time. I’ve hardtail or short- to be accessed The Central Belt has the highest ridden in Scotland before but its remotest travel (100mm) during the day population density in Scotland, with 3.5 hills never fail to give me goose bumps. full-suspension (phone, charger, million people living there. Yet it didn’t After days of riding, I left the quiet bike, preferably route map, tools, feel busy as I rode along the tranquil hillside tracks. I was sad to leave the with 29in wheels money, etc) in Union Canal, following the towpath solitude behind but buoyed by the smell and lightly treaded the frame bag straight into the heart of Scotland’s of sea in the air. Or was it fish and chips? tyres 2.2in+ wide. or top tube bag, largest city, Glasgow. The Great North Trail took me to Cape However, much of and items you Thanks to its enlightened access laws, Wrath (cyclinguk.org/capewrath). the trail is suitable shouldn’t need there’s a choice of long distance off-road However, my journey wasn’t over. I for a gravel bike while riding in routes through Scotland’s countryside: wanted a picture at the other end point, or a rigid 29+ bike the seat pack. the Cape Wrath Trail, with around 400km John o’ Groats, followed by a visit to (29×3in tyres), You could use of riding from Fort William to the north- Duncansby Head, where a lighthouse which is what I panniers, but be western tip of Scotland; the Badger Trail, stands on the cliffs. rode. aware that they 320km from Inverness to Glasgow; the Everyone needs some adventure Whatever bike will likely make Great Glen Way, 125km between Fort in their life – and this route certainly you choose, a the handling and William to Inverness; and the An Turas delivers that. The only decision that really range of low lifting of the bike Mor trail, which runs from Glasgow to needs to be made is how much of it, or gears is important, cumbersome Cape Wrath. The latter is the route of which part of it, will you sample? especially on a on certain the Great North Trail. heavily loaded sections of bike, as pushing the trail. INTO THE HIGHLANDS More info will be worse than When I officially entered Cycle’s guide to seat packs: riding. Keep loads the Scottish Highlands cyclinguk.org/seatpack- at The Falls of Leny near grouptest Aberfoyle, it felt like I was

48 cycle OCTOBER NOVEMBER 2019