Pembrokeshire Coast Pathtrailbl
Total Page:16
File Type:pdf, Size:1020Kb
Pemb-5 Back Cover-Q8__- 8/2/17 4:46 PM Page 1 TRAILBLAZER Pembrokeshire Coast Path Pembrokeshire Coast Path 5 EDN Pembrokeshire ‘...the Trailblazer series stands head, Pembrokeshire shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest. They are particularly strong on mapping...’ COASTCOAST PATHPATH THE SUNDAY TIMES 96 large-scale maps & guides to 47 towns and villages With accommodation, pubs and restaurants in detailed PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT guides to 47 towns and villages Manchester includingincluding Tenby, Pembroke, Birmingham AMROTHAMROTH TOTO CARDIGANCARDIGAN St David’s, Fishguard & Cardigan Cardigan Cardiff Amroth JIM MANTHORPE & o IncludesIncludes 9696 detaileddetailed walkingwalking maps:maps: thethe London PEMBROKESHIRE 100km100km largest-scalelargest-scale mapsmaps availableavailable – At just COAST PATH 5050 milesmiles DANIEL McCROHAN under 1:20,000 (8cm or 311//88 inchesinches toto 11 mile)mile) thesethese areare biggerbigger thanthan eveneven thethe mostmost detaileddetailed The Pembrokeshire Coast walking maps currently available in the shops. Path followsfollows aa NationalNational Trail for 186 miles (299km) o Unique mapping features – walking around the magnificent times,times, directions,directions, trickytricky junctions,junctions, placesplaces toto coastline of the Pembroke- stay, places to eat, points of interest. These shire Coast National Park are not general-purpose maps but fully inin south-westsouth-west Wales.Wales. edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers. Renowned for its unspoilt sandy beaches, secluded o ItinerariesItineraries forfor allall walkerswalkers – whether coves, tiny fishing villages hiking the entire route or sampling high- and off-shore islands rich lightslights onon day walks or short breaks inin birdbird andand marinemarine life,life, thisthis National Trail provides o Detailed public transport information some of the best coastal Buses, trains and taxis for all access points walking in Britain. o Practical information for all budgets INCLUDESINCLUDES DOWNLOADABLEDOWNLOADABLE What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and restaurants);restaurants); wherewhere toto staystay (B&Bs,(B&Bs, hotels,hotels, GPS waypoints bunkhouses, hostels and campsites) ‘Excellent’‘Excellent’ www.trailblazer-guides.com THE NEW YORK TIMES 51995 > DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY MCA / TRAVEL ALLIANCE % 0122501225 406440406440 Price in UK UK£11.99 DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN % 1-800-462-64201-800-462-6420 www.www.nbnbooks.comnbnbooks.com 5 Price in USA US$19.95 EDN 7819059 864843 ISBNISBN 978-1-905864-84-3978-1-905864-84-3 5th edition spine 18 mm 1st Proof TitleTitle:: Pemb-5Pemb-5 1702063_cover_CS6.indd 1 JobJob NoNo:: W0217-12/shanW0217-12/shan 2/9/17 10:45 AM Pemb-5 00 colour pages pp1-16-Q8__Prelims Template 7/2/17 12:02 PM Page 1 JIM MANTHORPE is a wildlife camera- man and writer, the author of the first edition of this book. He has trekked in many of the world’s mountainous regions from Patagonia to the Himalaya and Scandinavia to the Canadian Rockies. He is the author of four other Trailblazer guidebooks: Tour du Mont Blanc, South Downs Way and Scottish Highlands Hillwalking Guide and has also researched and updated numerous other Trailblazer titles. Jim has a particular love of wild places and wildlife and has filmed eagles, otters and orcas for various BBC programmes including Springwatch. DANIEL MCCROHAN researched and wrote this 5th edition. He’s a widely pub- lished travel writer and hardened hiker who has authored more than 30 guide- books to destinations as far flung as Mongolia and Tibet. He spent most of the last decade living in China, and spe- cialises in writing about Asia, but he is from the UK and relishes every oppor- tunity he gets to explore his homeland, especially if it means another chance to go camping. This is Daniel’s second Trailblazer walking guide and he camped his way along the entire route. He was accompanied every step of the way by his extraordinary six-year-old daughter Yoyo (left), who also proved to be somewhat of a prodigy with a camera by taking the photograph for the cover of this book. You can keep pace with Daniel’s travels through his website, : daniel mccrohan.com. Or else find him on Twitter (@danielmccrohan). Authors 1st Proof Title: Pemb-5 Job No: W0217-12/shan Pemb-5 00 colour pages pp1-16-Q8__Prelims Template 7/2/17 12:09 PM Page 2 Pembrokeshire Coast Path First edition: 2004; this fifth edition 2017 Publisher Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey, GU26 6SU, UK [email protected], : www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-84-3 © Trailblazer 2004, 2007, 2010, 2013, 2017: Text and maps Editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood Proofreading: Jane Thomas Cartography: Nick Hill Layout & Index: Anna Jacomb-Hood Photographs (flora): © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Daniel McCrohan (unless otherwise indicated) All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner. The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer. Acknowledgements My biggest thanks goes to my incredible daughter, Yoyo, who walked with me along the entire coast path despite being just six years old. Thank you for your smiles, your stories and your hugs. But mostly, thank you for making me such a proud dad. Big love and thanks too to Taotao and Dudu for holding the fort while dad and little sis were away sampling Welsh ice- creams. The fact that we enjoyed them so much doesn’t mean we missed you any less. Also JIM MANTHORPE & DANIEL McCROHAN at home, huge thanks to Sam and Heidi for being the best babysitters a niece could wish for, and to my mum for ... well, for everything. In Pembrokeshire, I’m very grateful to Oli at Big Blue in Newgale for sharing his insider’s tips on the coast path. Thanks too to Judith Lapin for her wonderful hospitality at Penfro B&B in Pembroke – what an amazing home you have! Thanks also to Q and Jet at Hamilton Backpackers in Fishguard, and to all the intrepid folks we met on the coast path who shared their advice and good company so freely. I’m also grate- ful to all those readers who wrote in with suggestions, particularly John Cabot, Anne Cake- bread, Gisela Kusche, Susan Taylor, Clive Thundercliffe and also Maria Aach, Brian Andrews, Phil Badcock, Mark Bentinck, Cris Carter, Mike Davies, Paul Drinkwater, David Heycock, Holger Laufer, Susan Milner, Shaun & Ann Mundy, Max Page and Pam & Stephen Turner. Back at Trailblazer HQ, many thanks to Anna Jacomb-Hood and Nick Hill for their stel- lar work on editing and mapping and to Jane Thomas for proofreading. But most of all, a huge debt of gratitude to publisher Bryn Thomas. A request The author and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate and up to date as possible. Nevertheless, things change. If you notice any changes or omissions that should be included in the next edition of this book, please write to Trailblazer (address above) or email us at : [email protected]. A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant contribution. Warning: coastal walking and long-distance walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp12-15) and outdoor safety (pp53-6). Every effort has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide. Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com Photos – Front cover: On the trail by Carn Penberry © Yoyo McCrohan Previous page: Hiking towards Gateholm Island. This page: Whitesands Bay and Carn Llidi. Overleaf: Caldey Island from Tenby’s South Beach. Printed in China; print production by D’Print (% +65-6581 3832), Singapore 1st Proof Title: Pemb-5 Job No: W0217-12/shan Pemb-5 00 colour pages pp1-16-Q8__Prelims Template 7/2/17 12:12 PM Page 3 Pembrokeshire Coast Path AMROTH TO CARDIGAN 96 large-scale maps & guides to 47 towns and villages PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT JIM MANTHORPE & DANIEL McCROHAN TRAILBLAZERTRAILBLAZER PUBLICATIONSPUBLICATIONS 1st Proof Title: Pemb-5 Job No: W0217-12/shan Pemb-5 00 colour pages pp1-16-Q8__Prelims Template 7/2/17 12:10 PM Page 4 INTRODUCTION Pembrokeshire Coast Path History 9 – How difficult is the path? 10 How long do you need? 11 – When to go 12 PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK Practical information for the walker Route finding 17 – Accommodation 18 – Food and drink 21 Money 23 – Information for foreign visitors 24 – Other services 25 Walking companies 26 – Taking dogs along the coast path 28 Disabled access 28 Budgeting 29 Itineraries Village and town facilities 30 – Suggested itineraries 32 Which direction? 33 – Side trips 34 – Day and weekend walks 35 Extending your walk 36 What to take Keep your luggage light 36 – How to carry it 36 – Footwear 37 Clothes 37 – Toiletries 38 – First-aid kit 38 – General items 39 Camping gear 39 – Money 39 – Maps 39 – Welsh words 40 Sources of further information 41 – Recommended reading 42 Getting to and from the path Getting to Britain 43 – National transport 43 – Local transport 44 Public transport map 45 PART