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TRAILBLAZER North Downs Way Downs North 2 EDN ‘...the Trailblazer series stands head, NorthNorth DownsDowns shoulders, waist and ankles above the rest. They are particularly strong on mapping...’ WAYWAY THE SUNDAY TIMES 84 large-scale maps & guides to 44 towns & villages With accommodation, pubs and restaurants in detailed PLANNING – PLACES TO STAY – PLACES TO EAT guides to 44 towns and villages Birmingham including Farnham, Guildford, FARNHAMFARNHAM toto DOVERDOVER viavia CANTERBURYCANTERBURY London Rochester, Canterbury and Dover Canterbury Farnham o Includes 84 detailed walking maps: the NORTH Dover DOWNS JOHN CURTIN & largest-scale maps available – At just WAY 100km under 1:20,000 (8cm or 31/8 inches to 1 mile) 50 miles HENRY STEDMAN these are bigger than even the most detailed The North Downs Way is a walking maps currently available in the shops. 131.6-mile (211.6km) National Trail that runs from Farnham in Unique mapping features o – walking Surrey to Dover in Kent, partly times, directions, tricky junctions, places to following the old Pilgrims’ Way stay, places to eat, points of interest. These to the shrine of St Thomas à are not general-purpose maps but fully Becket at Canterbury. It winds

edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers. through the protected land- FARNHAM TO DOVER

scape of the Surrey Hills and VIA CANTERBURY o Itineraries for all walkers – whether the Kent Downs passing hiking the entire route or sampling high- medieval churches, castles, lights on day walks or short breaks. Neolithic burial sites, vineyards and numerous WWII defences. Detailed public transport information o There are literary associations for all access points. with Swift, Cobbett, Charles o Practical information for all budgets Dickens and Jane Austen. It’s not a difficult walk, with few What to see; where to eat (cafés, pubs and steep ascents or descents. restaurants); where to stay (B&Bs, hotels, hostels, camping barns and campsites). INCLUDES DOWNLOADABLE GPS waypoints www.trailblazer-guides.com 51995 >

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY % THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE 01225 406440 Price in UK UK£11.99

DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 2 Price in USA US$19.95 EDN

ISBN 978-1-905864-90-4 7819059 864904 2nd edition

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North Downs Way First edition: 2006; this second edition: 2018 Publisher: Trailblazer Publications The Old Manse, Tower Rd, Hindhead, Surrey GU26 6SU, UK www.trailblazer-guides.com British Library Cataloguing in Publication Data A catalogue record for this book is available from the British Library ISBN 978-1-905864-90-4 © Trailblazer 2006, 2018: Text and maps Series editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood Editor: Anna Jacomb-Hood; Cartography: Nick Hill Layout and index: Anna Jacomb-Hood; Proof-reading: Jane Thomas Illustrations: p60: Nick Hill Photographs (flora): bee orchid opp p64 © John Curtin; hemp agrimony, C3, © Jane Thomas; all others © Bryn Thomas All other photographs: © Henry Stedman unless otherwise indicated All rights reserved. Other than brief extracts for the purposes of review no part of this publication may be reproduced in any form without the written consent of the publisher and copyright owner.

The maps in this guide were prepared from out-of-Crown- copyright Ordnance Survey maps amended and updated by Trailblazer.

Acknowledgements FROM HENRY: Firstly, thank you to John Curtin for writing the first edition of this guide. Thanks also to Daisy for accompanying me every step of the way – what a dog! – and to Zoe for enabling me to complete the trail, and for making each return home such a pleasant one; and to Henry Jr, of course, for being so brilliant. I’d also like to thank all those readers who wrote in with comments and suggestions, in particular, Shirley Alexander, George Moberley, Jeremy Servian, Colin Thompson and Keith Wartnaby. At Trailblazer, thanks to Anna Jacomb-Hood for her usual forensic approach to editing the text, Nick Hill for the maps, Jane Thomas for the proofreading and to Bryn Thomas, as always, for keeping me busy.

A request The authors and publisher have tried to ensure that this guide is as accurate as possible. Nevertheless things change even on these well-worn routes. If you notice any changes or omissions please write to Trailblazer (address as above) or email us at : info@trailblazer- guides.com. A free copy of the next edition will be sent to persons making a significant con- tribution. Warning: long-distance walking can be dangerous Please read the notes on when to go (pp13-15) and health and safety (pp53-5). Every effort has been made by the author and publisher to ensure that the information contained herein is as accurate and up to date as possible. However, they are unable to accept responsibility for any inconvenience, loss or injury sustained by anyone as a result of the advice and information given in this guide.

PHOTOS – Front cover: Daisy and companion pause to admire the scenery from the North Downs Way viewpoint (see p152), before Hollingbourne. This page: Poppies provide a colourful border to many of the fields en route, such as here just outside Detling. Overleaf: Strolling through the barley on the way back from Lenham to the trail. Updated information will be available on: : www.trailblazer-guides.com % Printed in China; print production by D’Print ( +65-6581 3832), Singapore

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INTRODUCTION P

About the North Downs Way U History 11 – How difficult is the North Downs Way? 12 How long do you need? 12 – When to go 13 F F PART 1: PLANNING YOUR WALK C Practical information for the walker G Route finding 17 – Accommodation 18 – Food and drink 21 N Money 23 – Other services 23 – Information for foreign visitors 24 R Walking companies 26 – Taking dogs along the North Downs Way 27 D Budgeting 27 R Itineraries O Village and town facilities table 28 K Suggested itineraries 30 – Which direction? 30 O Side trips 30 – Highlights (Day and weekend walks) 32 B What to take R Keep your luggage light 34 – How to carry it 34 – Footwear 34 T Clothes 35 – Toiletries 36 – First-aid kit 37 – General items 37 Camping gear 38 – Money 38 – Maps 39 – Recommended reading 40 H L Getting to and from the North Downs Way National transport 40 – Getting to Britain 41 – Local transport 44 B Public transport map 46 C PART 2: MINIMUM IMPACT WALKING C & OUTDOOR SAFETY S S Minimum impact walking Access 49 – The Countryside Code 50 – Economic impact 51 D Environmental impact 51 A Outdoor safety Avoidance of hazards 53 – Blisters 54 – Hypothermia, Hyperthermia A & Sunburn 54 – Personal safety 55 – Other users 55 B PART 3: THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE C M Conserving the North Downs Way Natural England 56 – Campaigning & conservation organisations 57 I Flora and fauna Mammals 58 – Fish 59 – Birds 59 – Reptiles 61 – Butterflies 61 O Contents Trees 62 – Flowers 63

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PART 4: ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS

Using this guide Trail maps 65 – Accommodation 66

67 Farnham Farnham to Guildford 70 (Seale 74 – Puttenham 74 Compton 76 – Shalford 78 – Guildford 80) Guildford to Dorking 84 (Chilworth 86 – Albury 86 Newlands Corner 88 – Shere 90 – Holmbury St Mary 91 Ranmore Common 94 – Denbies Wine Estate 94 – Dorking 96) 7 Dorking to Oxted 100 (Box Hill & Box Hill Village 102 Reigate Hill 102 – Redhill 104 – Merstham 107 – Oxted 112) Oxted (Chalk Pit Lane) to Otford 116 (Westerham 118 Knockholt Pound 121 – Dunton Green 122 – Otford 124)

Otford to Rochester 127 (Kemsing 127 – Wrotham 130 Borough Green 130 – Ryarsh 134 – Cuxton 134 – Rochester 140) Rochester to Hollingbourne 144 (Aylesford 147 – Detling 148 Thurnham 150 – Hollingbourne 150

0 Hollingbourne to Boughton Lees 154 (Harrietsham 154 Lenham 156 – Charing 158 – Westwell 161 – Boughton Lees 162)

Boughton Lees to Chilham 164 (Chilham 167)

Chilham to Canterbury 168 (Chartham 168 – Canterbury 173) Canterbury to Shepherdswell 180 (Bridge 182 Shepherdswell 188) Shepherdswell to Dover 188

Dover 192 APPENDICES

a A: Alternative route (Boughton Lees to Dover via Wye) 195 B: Taking a dog 201 C: GPS waypoints 203 MAP KEY 205 7 INDEX 206

OVERVIEW MAPS & PROFILES 209 Contents

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k o INTRODUCTION o

y d ‘I can assure those townsfolk who send forth a cry that wild nature and scenery are becoming difficult to find, that any amount of both still exists, within a short railway ride from London.’ Denham Jordan, author of On Surrey Hills. , Every day tens of thousands of people wend their dreary way t along the three of the major trans- n port arteries of South-East England – the M25, M26 & M20. Doubtless many of these same s people from time to time turn their gaze from the tarmac to look wistfully up at the gentle grassy s slopes that line one side of the motorways and wonder to themselves exactly what lies atop these same hills. h It’s probably just as well that they don’t know, for if they did , they’d probably be tempted to swerve rashly onto the hard shoulder, , screech to a halt and run straight up those same verdant slopes – which, if everybody did, would have dire consequences for the smooth running of UK transport network’s south-eastern division. For hidden amidst the trees that crown the downs is the North Downs Way stretching all the way from Farnham, in Surrey, to Dover, in Kent. Stretching for

131.6 miles (211.6km) – or 124.2 miles (200km) if taking the short-

er alternative finish from Boughton Lees to Dover that misses out on Canterbury – it’s no coincidence that the North Downs Way is shadowed for much of its length by these major thorough- fares; because for several millen-

nia the North Downs Way was the major transport route between Dover on England’s eastern shore National Trail milestones, such as

this one in the woods above the and the major trading and popula-

White Horse Stone outside Ayles- tion centres of Canterbury, the ford, crop up regularly along the Medway towns and on into path and help you to keep track of Surrey. Indeed, Stone Age burial Introduction your progress.

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8 Introduction ______sites and other monoliths in P Northern Kent testify to how long f the Downs have been inhabited. C Given that the trail follows a ridge of chalk hills running across t Surrey and Kent, it doesn’t take t much imagination to see how T even Britain’s first inhabitants i would have followed this trail. l Indeed, people in the Stone Age W

INTRODUCTION would have doubtless enjoyed ( how, by following the line of this P The start of the trail at Hinkley Corner (see natural geological phenomenon, B p71) in Farnham. The sculpture was installed in they would find it easy to orien- S 2015 and is made from a form of architectural tate themselves and avoid getting D steel called corten that’s designed intentionally to rust. lost – a feature that walkers still K appreciate to this day! S If you want to get an idea of just how important this route was, just look at r the buildings that you can see along the way. No fewer than eight castles and t three cathedrals lie on or just off the trail, not to mention several archbishops’ palaces (now, sadly, all in ruins), D For several millennia the North an assortment of WWII defences t Downs Way was the major trans- and one folly. It is the cathedrals – f port route between Dover, Canter- and, in particular, Canterbury p bury, the Medway towns and Surrey Cathedral, arguably the most w important Christian building in w England and certainly one of the oldest – that did much to popularise the trail t that we now call the North Downs Way, as pilgrims flocked to the cathedral to n pray at the tomb of St Thomas à Becket. Indeed, for much of its western half u the North Downs Way follows the so-called ‘Old Road’, also known as the

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12 How difficult is the path? ______t d i How difficult is the path? s w The North Downs Way is a well-signposted 131.6-miles (211.6km) or 124.2 t miles (200km) if completing the alternative walk via Canterbury; and it’s 155.9 a miles (250.9km) if you manage somehow to combine both without missing any e part of either trail, and without going over any of the trail twice. It is also one w of the less taxing trails, as you walk over generally level and firm ground with INTRODUCTIONvery few steep ascents or descents. You do not need previous experience of long-distance path walking. What you do need is suitable clothing, money, time, a half-decent pair of leg muscles and a realistic assessment of your fitness. Remember you don’t have to do it all in one go and because transport options S are so good you can tackle it in bite-sized stages. The main thing is not to push T yourself beyond your ability. l If you don’t have the time or want to skip the less interesting parts where y motorways intrude, there are excellent transport links to most parts of the North m Downs Way from London and the south coast making day and weekend trips o easy (see Highlights box pp32-3). T s s How long do you need? b t You can have an invigorating You can do it in a week if you are determined to crack off the miles day S holiday easily completing the T after day and provided you are fit. But walk in 10 days, or 14 if you t prefer a more relaxed pace. that really feels like a race against Be

Marbled White (Melanargia galathea)

Large Skipper (Ochlodes sylvanus

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How long do you need? 13 ______time. You can have an invigorating holiday easily completing the walk in 10 days, or 14 if you prefer a more relaxed pace. Bear in mind that if you are camping, carrying a heavier pack will slow you down and many of the official campsites are well off the trail. You may also See p31 for some suggest- want to take a day off – you’ll probably be ed itineraries covering tempted by Canterbury. Both Guildford 2 different walking speeds 9 and Rochester are worth at least half a day y each and this will add to the time needed. Then again there are superb day and e weekend walks (see pp32-3) with easy access and excellent transport links. h f INTRODUCTION , . When to go s SEASONS h The old joke is Britain doesn’t have a climate; it has weather and if you don’t like it just wait five minutes. Walking the North Downs Way can be enjoyed e year-round as long as you dress suitably and take it for granted that even in sum- h mer there may be parts of the trail that are muddy. However, severe conditions s of heat, cold or rain seldom last for long. You may get wet on the North Downs but you’re unlikely to perish. Temperatures seldom dip below 0˚C in winter or above 32˚C in summer and the south-east tends to have the highest temperatures and the greatest number of sun- shine hours in Britain. In summer it tends to be slightly cooler by the coast because the sea takes longer to heat up. Conversely in winter it takes longer for the sea to cool so it’s milder by the coast because of the warming effect of the sea. e y Spring This is a great time of year for stands of bluebells and spring wild flowers along t the Surrey sections of the North Downs Way. With the first leaf growth coming t Below: Butterfly-filled meadows such as here, near Titsey Plantation, are a feature of the Downs.

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When to go 15 ______n leaves begin to change and the e nights start to draw in. Farmers - will be ploughing so you can m expect some tough going over - recently ploughed fields, espe- d cially if it’s been raining. y Winter e There is nothing like a bright, s clear, frosty day to admire the - views from the North Downs’ r ridgeline and we often get a spell INTRODUCTION s of weather like that early in the Crossing the River Medway alongside the thun-

New Year. But it’s wet, relatively derous M2 is perhaps the least pleasant part of mild, damp days that are the the entire trail. Distract yourself from the motor- - norm. With good waterproofs way by looking north towards Rochester. n there is nothing to hold you back JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC °C °F . from walking the North Downs 20° 68° even if it’s a bit dispiriting. With 15° 59° y 10° 50° u the leaves off the trees the views 5° 41° on a clear day are uninterrupted. 0° 32° f -5° 23° e Most pubs and B&Bs remain Average max/min temperatures e open as their business here is (Guildford) f year-round so it will be easier to JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC o find accommodation but do make mm inch g sure you get an early start each 120 4.68 r day as the nights draw in quickly. 100 3.90 r 80 2.05 h TEMPERATURE 60 1.54 s Temperatures are pleasantly 40 1.03 l warm during the summer and 20 0.51 y generally seldom drop below 0˚C 0 0 Average rainfall s in the south-east in winter. (Guildford)

JAN FEB MAR APR MAY JUN JUL AUG SEP OCT NOV DEC RAINFALL 5am SUNRISE d Rain falls in every month of the 7am g year and is highest in winter as 9am e expected. England is affected by 11am n weather systems coming from the 1pm e south-west containing a lot of rain. 3pm - 5pm - DAYLIGHT HOURS 7pm 9pm e If walking in autumn, winter or SUNSET t early spring, you must take 11pm Hours of daylight d account of how far you can walk (Guildford) e in the available light.

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30 Itineraries ______

Itineraries

Most people tackle the North Downs Way west to east and Part 4 has been written that way. It’s perfectly possible to walk it in the opposite direction (the way- marking is in place) but there are advantages in doing it west to east (see below). To help you plan your walk there is a planning map (see map opposite inside back cover) and a table of village/town facilities (see pp28-9); the latter gives a snap shot of the essential information you will need regarding accommodation possibilities and services. You could follow or adapt one of the suggested itineraries (see below) which are based on preferred type of accommodation and walking speeds. There is also a list of recommended linear day and weekend walks on pp32-3 which cover the best of the North Downs Way, all of which are well served by public transport. The public transport map and table are on pp45-8. Once you have an idea of your approach turn to Part 4 for detailed information on accommodation, places to eat and other services in each village and town on the route. Also in Part 4 you will find summaries of the route to accom- pany the detailed trail maps.

SUGGESTED ITINERARIES The itineraries in the boxes opposite are based on different accommodation types (camping, hostels/bunkhouses and B&Bs), with each one divided into three alternatives depending on your walking speed. They are only suggestions PLANNINGso you YOUR canWALK adapt them to suit your circumstances. Some accommodation and public transport options may be a considerable distance off the trail and where this is the case it is noted in Part 4 and on the maps where appropriate. Be sure to add travelling time before and after the walk. This is especially important in winter when there are fewer hours of daylight.

WHICH DIRECTION? Most walkers tackle the path west to east. There are a few advantages. The pre- vailing wind tends to be at your back as is the sun if you get a later start. As most others are going this direction, if you are walking alone but want some company you can fall in step with them. Also it’s worth having a destination to look for- ward to and Canterbury, though not at the end, is a worthy penultimate goal. And like a river on its journey it seems natural to follow the route to the sea.

SIDE TRIPS The North Downs Way is plenty long enough to satisfy energetic walkers. Yet the path cuts through a part of Britain that’s packed with castles, grand country NDW-2 01-03_Prelims Template 27/02/2018 21:19 Page 15

Suggested itineraries 31 ______

CAMPING OR STAYING IN HOSTELS/CAMPING BARN Relaxed Medium Fast Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance Night miles km miles km miles km

0 Farnham Farnham Farnham 1 Puttenham 6.9 11.1 Holmbury 20.5 33 Ranmore 22.8 36.7 St Mary (SM) Common 2 Holmbury SM 13.6 21.9 Merstham* 14.3 23 Oxted* 20.3 32.7 3 Redhill* 12.2 19.6 Westerham* 12.4 20 Wrotham 17.7 28.4 4 Oxted* 10.4 16.8 Wrotham 13.6 21.8 H’bourne* 26.5 42.6 5 Otford* 11.6 18.6 Rochester* 11.7 18.8 Canterbury 24.9 40.1 6 Ryarsh* 10.4 16.7 H’bourne* 14.8 23.8 Dover 19.4 31.2 7 Aylesford* 12.1 19.5 Westwell 10.6 17.1 8 H’bourne* 10.1 16.2 Canterbury 14.3 23 9 Westwell 10.6 17.1 Dover 19.4 31.2 10 Chilham* 7.9 12.7 11 Bridge* 10.1 16.3 * No campsites or hostels/bunkhouses but other 12 Dover 15.7 25.2 accommodation is available

Note distances given are to nearest point on the trail to the campsite only. Please refer to the Route Guide (Part 4) to see how far you have to walk from there to the campsite.

STAYING IN B&B-STYLE ACCOMMODATION Relaxed Medium Fast Place Approx Place Approx Place Approx Distance Distance Distance PLANNING YOUR WALK Night miles km miles km miles km

0 Farnham Farnham Farnham 1 Guildford 12 19.3 Newlands 15.4 24.8 Shere 17.5 28.2 Corner 2 Dorking 12.9 20.7 Reigate Hill 17.3 27.8 Oxted 25.6 41.2 3 Reigate Hill 7.8 12.6 Dunton Green 20.3 32.7 Ryarsh 22 35.3 4 Westerham 14.5 23.4 Rochester 19.5 31.3 Harrietsham 24.5 39.4 5 Wrotham 13.6 21.8 Lenham 18.6 29.9 Chilham 16.2 26.7 6 Rochester 11.7 18.8 Chilham 14.7 23.7 Dover 25.8 41.5 7 Thurnham 10.5 16.9 Bridge 10.1 16.3 8 Boughton Lees 16.9 25.9 Dover 15.7 25.2 9 Canterbury 12.3 19.8 10 Dover 19.4 31.2

houses and sites of great antiquity. A glance at the Ordnance Survey map will give you some idea for side trips and possible walking trails to them as well as other long-distance paths such as the Greensand Way (Haslemere, Surrey, to NDW-2 01-03_Prelims Template 27/02/2018 21:19 Page 16

32 Itineraries ______

o HIGHLIGHTS – DAY WALKS & WEEKEND WALKS There is nothing like walking the entire length of a long-distance path in one go but some people don’t have the time and others want to experience only the best of what the trail has to offer. For details of public transport to and from the start and finish of each walk see pp45-8. The weekend walks can be split in two to suit day walkers, or combined and completed in a day by those who want a challenge. That would, however, leave little time for sightseeing which is a pity on this culturally rich route. Day walks l Farnham to Guildford 12 miles/19.3km (see pp70-80) Walk through farmland, woodland and along sandy bridleways to Guildford where there is plenty of sightseeing. Visit the ancient burial tumulus at Puttenham Heath, itself geologically unusual in this area of chalk, and stop at the excellent Watts Gallery and the Cemetery Chapel, Compton (see p78), where you can rest up for awhile at café. l Guildford to Shere 5½ miles/8.9km (see pp84-90) A relaxed pace crossing the River Wey, the path climbs through woods (bluebell-filled in spring) to the top of St Martha’s and Newlands Corner from where there are great views on a clear day. You can then detour to Shere, Surrey’s prettiest village. l Otford to Rochester 17.8 miles/28.6km (see pp127-140) Not the prettiest or quietest of sections and one of the longest but it passes through Kemsing Downs, a significant chalk grassland habitat, the woods of Trosley Country Park, with a short detour to see one of Kent’s best-known megaliths, Coldrum Barrow. Much of the walk is in woodland and surprisingly isolated from the industrial PLANNING YOUR WALK Medway valley towns and emerges by pretty Upper Bush into Cuxton The lonely, enigmatic stones of Coldrum before crossing the M2 and Barrow lie just off the trail and are one of Channel Tunnel Rail link. several Neolithic structures along the Way. Rochester is 35-40 minutes off the trail from where there are fast train connections to London, Canterbury and Dover. Consider an overnight stay there – the Norman Castle, England’s second oldest cathedral, and Restoration House are well worth visiting. l Charing to Chilham 10½ miles/16.9km (see pp158-167) A stroll through a quin- tessential Kentish landscape, with oast-houses and orchards abounding, and finishing at the prettiest village on the trail. Great fun.

Hamstreet, near Ashford in Kent) and Weald Way (Gravesend in Kent to Eastbourne in East Sussex). A detailed description is beyond the scope of this book but you can find information online. Those inspired to try more Downs walking may want to tackle the South Downs Way for which there is a Trailblazer guide (see p208). The Downs Link, a 32-mile bridleway utilising a disused railway line links the North Downs Way at St Martha’s (see Map 7, p85) with the South Downs Way, near Steyning. NDW-2 01-03_Prelims Template 27/02/2018 21:19 Page 24

40 What to take ______RECOMMENDED READING Some of the following books can be found in the tourist information centres and they may also have a number of books about the towns and villages en route, usually printed by small, local publishers. For a thematic treatment of the North Downs through the eyes of painters, poets and novelists Kent County Council produced a richly illustrated guide, North Downs Way: An Inspirational Journey by Gillian Duff, which you can still find on Abebooks and other second-hand retailers. The North Downs Way by Belinda Knox (publisher Kneading) is a photo- graphic guide to the Way. The Pilgrims’ Way: Fact and fiction of an ancient trackway by Derek Bright is about the various origins of The Pilgrims’ Way and provides a great back- ground resource for anyone walking this path. If you are inspired to try out other long-distance walks, check out the other titles in the Trailblazer series; see p208. Flora and fauna field guides Collins Bird Guide with its beautiful illustrations of British and European birds continues to be the favourite field guide of both ornithologists and laymen alike. For a guide to the flora you’ll encounter on the North Downs Way, The Wild Flower Key (Warne) by Francis Rose and Clare O’Reilly, is arranged to make it easy to identify unfamiliar flowers. Another in the Collins Gem series, Wild Flowers, is more pocket-sized and thus more suitable for walkers. There are also several field guide apps for smart phones and tablets, including those that can aid in identifying birds by their song as well as by their appearance. PLANNING YOUR WALK

Getting to and from the North Downs Way

Surrey and Kent have excellent transport services and with its proximity to London the North Downs Way is one of the most easily accessible national trails. Travelling to it by public transport is convenient, reasonably inexpensive and makes sense.

NATIONAL TRANSPORT Train You are only ever an hour or two from London on the North Downs Way with convenient and frequent train services to Farnham, Guildford, Dorking, Redhill, Merstham, Oxted, Otford, Rochester, Hollingbourne, Harrietsham, Lenham, Charing, Chilham, Canterbury, Bekesbourne, Shepherds Well (for Shepherdswell) and Dover amongst other places. NDW-2 01-03_Prelims Template 27/02/2018 21:19 Page 31

Public transport map 47 ______Mill Priory Dover Martin Well Eurotunnel Margate Ramsgate Shepherds 89/89A Folkestone 89/89A 15 Aylesham Bekesbourne Le Shuttle Eurotunnel (West & Central) 89/89A Bridge Canterbury East 17 17 89/89A 16 1X 1,1A 1,1A,1X Canterbury 1 1 1 1A 1A 1A 1X 1X 1X Canterbury West Chartham Wye 1,1A,1X Chilham 666 666 Ashford Faversham Lees International Boughton Charing NOT TO SCALE NOT TO 10X Sittingbourne Lenham Not all stops are shown Sheerness 10X 334 10X 333 Harrietsham 10X Leeds Castle Hollingbourne 13 PLANNING YOUR WALK 13 10X East Maidstone 333 334 334 Maidstone Detling Gillingham 155 Chatham 142 172/173 Kit’s Coty Aylesford 142,151,155 142 West 155 & St Pancras International Maidstone Hill 142 58 Rochester To London Victoria, Charing Cross 155 Blue Bell Ryarsh 151 151 151 173 173 173 172/ 172/ 172/ 151 Borstal 58 Cuxton Green & Green & Green & Strood Tonbridge Borough Borough Borough Wrotham Wrotham Wrotham Trotiscliffe 306 306 306 308 308 308 222 222 308 58 Sole Street 452 222,306,308 Wells Kemsing & Bluewater North Downs Way To Tunbridge To Gravesend PUBLIC TRANSPORT MAP 2 Otford Sevenoaks Wrotham 402 421 789/790 789/790 NDW-2 01-03_Prelims Template 27/02/2018 21:20 Page 40

3 THE ENVIRONMENT & NATURE

Conserving the North Downs Way

Britain is an overcrowded island, and England is the most densely populated part of it. The south-east has suffered a great deal of pres- sure from both over-population and competition for land use. The landscape of the North Downs in Surrey and Kent is the levee hold- ing back London’s sprawl. Thankfully there are several bodies at local and national level whose job it is to protect and conserve that landscape for future generations.

NATURAL ENGLAND The official responsibilities of Natural England (: gov.uk/govern ment/organisations/natural-england) are to ‘enhance biodiversity and our landscapes and wildlife in rural, urban, coastal and marine areas; promote access, recreation and public well-being, and contribute to the way natural resources are managed, so they can be enjoyed now and for future generations’. Essentially this organisation gives advice and information, designates Sites of Special Scientific Interest, National Parks, Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty, manages some of the National Nature Reserves and enforces existing regulations. Natural England also manages England’s National Trails. There are 37 Areas of Outstanding Natural Beauty (AONBs) in England, covering some 15% of the country. Their primary objec- tive is conservation of the natural beauty of a landscape and responsibility for this falls to the local authority within whose boundary they fall. The North Downs Way passes through two: Surrey Hills AONB (: surreyhills.org) and Kent Downs AONB (: kentdowns .org.uk). None of the 224 national nature reserves (NNRs) in England is actually on the route, though Wye Downs is on the alternative loop. Local nature reserves (LNRs) are designated and managed by local councils. The main wildlife sites/local nature reserves along the North Downs Way are Colekitchen Down (off Map 10, p92), Ranmore Common, White Downs and Denbies Hillside (Map 11, p93 and Map 12, p95), Box Hill (Map 13, p97), Kemsing Downs NDW-2 C1-4-Q9_Flowers 001-004_25219 28/2/18 5:24 pm Page 3

The environment and nature – flora C3 ______

Dog Rose Meadow Buttercup Gorse Rosa canina Ranunculis acris Ulex europaeus

Tormentil Birdsfoot-trefoil Ox-eye Daisy Potentilla erecta Lotus corniculatus Leucanthemum vulgare

St John’s Wort Primrose Cowslip Hypericum perforatum Primula vulgaris Primula veris

Common Ragwort Red Admiral butterfly (Vanessa atalanta) on Senecio jacobaea Hemp Agrimony (Eupatorium cannabinum)

owns Way Job: 701071 Title:North Downs Way flower_2 DTP: FF Page: flower_3 NDW-2 C1-4-Q9_Flowers 001-004_25219 5/3/18 12:42 pm Page 4

Job: 701071 Title:North Downs Way 701071 -1 DTP: FF Page: flower_4 NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 3

Farnham 67 ______

The route guide

FARNHAM [MAP 1a, p69] The accident of the Surrey Hills made all Overlooking the town, construction was men who wished to get to the south-western commenced in 1138 under Henry de Blois ports from the Thames Valley and the east and it provided accommodation for the pass through Farnham. Travellers going bishops of Winchester until 1955. Mary west and north from the Weald were equal- Tudor stayed here on her way to marry ly compelled, if they would avoid the ridge, Philip of Spain in Winchester and Elizabeth to pass through Farnham. The former had I visited several times. to come down north of the Hog’s Back, the Another worthwhile place to visit is % latter from the south of it, and it was ever at the Museum of Farnham ( 01252- Farnham they met… and after Farnham the 715094, : farnhammaltings.com/museum; western tracks, now all in one, proceed to Tue-Sat 10am-5pm; free); it’s located in the Straits of Dover. Wilmer House, West St, a graciously pro- Hilaire Belloc, The Old Road portioned Grade 1 listed building, dating from 1718, with a pretty garden and the Situated roughly halfway between exhibits are well displayed. There is a monthly market at Winchester and London, Farnham made its % money from trade in wool, then corn, and in Farnham Maltings, Bridge Square ( : the 19th century its wealth came from 01252-745444, farnhammaltings.com; brewing. Now it services well-off com- first Sat in the month 9am-4.30pm; £1), muters but it also has a vibrant arts scene, a which is also the focus of a thriving music wonderful museum housed in a Grade 1 and arts scene, and a Farmers’ Market listed building and a fine medieval street (see box p22), on the fourth Sunday of pattern with a well-preserved Georgian every month (10am-1.30pm), in the Central

streetscape in Castle St, West St and The Car Park, off Victoria Rd. ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS Borough. This is the reputed birthplace of Services William Cobbett, the 18th-century politi- Tourist information is only available : cian and author of Rural Rides, in which he online ( farnham.gov.uk/discover). writes glowingly of the area covered in the There are branches of various banks first stage of the North Downs Way; his and building societies with ATMs on The actual home and birthplace is now a pub Borough as well as a main post office named after him just outside the centre in (Mon, Wed-Fri 9am-5.30pm, Tue from Bridge Square. 9.30am, Sat 9am-12.30pm); there is another post office on Station Hill. What to see and do Sainsbury’s supermarket (Mon-Sat If you have the time, follow the compre- 7am-8pm, Sun 10am-4pm) is on South St hensive Farnham Heritage Trail; a free and there is a Boots pharmacy (Mon-Sat leaflet may be downloaded from : farn 8.30am-6pm, Sun 10.30am-4pm) on The ham.gov.uk/discover/history-and-heritage/ Borough. heritagetrail. Also on The Borough is Breaking Free % : If you are time poor visit Farnham outdoor shop ( 01252-724347, break % Castle Keep ( 01252-721194, : www ingfree.co.uk; Mon-Sat 9.30am-5.30pm), .english-heritage.co.uk; Mon-Fri 9am-5pm, for last-minute gear purchases. Sat & Sun 10am-4pm; free). NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 4

68 Farnham ______Transport (sgl occ room rate) without breakfast; The railway station, on Station Hill, is online, however, you should be able to about five minutes away. South Western secure a room for around £40pp (sgl occ Railway operate services (see box pp42-3) room rate); breakfast costs £10pp. to Guildford (change at Aldershot) and Smaller but still central, The Bishop’s % : direct to London Waterloo. Table ( 01252-710222, www.bishops National Express coach service table.com; 2S/1T/21D, all en suite; ; WI- NX031 (see p44; London to Portsmouth) FI) sits at the other end of The Borough at drops off at the bus stop on The Borough 27 West St. Room rates also vary according and picks up from the stop on South St. to demand but are around £45pp (sgl £75- Several Stagecoach bus services 80, sgl occ room rate); breakfast is avail- (pp45-8) call here: Nos 4 & 5 (to able. Aldershot); Nos 18 & 19 (Aldershot to Haslemere); No 46 (to Guildford); and No Where to eat and drink 65 (Alton to Guildford). The No 65 only For a coffee, there are the usual nationwide stops on The Borough, but all the other serv- chain outlets such as Caffè Nero (Mon-Fri ices call also at Farnham railway station. 7am-6.30pm, Sat 7.30am-6.30pm, Sun For a taxi try Farnham Station Taxis 7.30am-6pm), at the bottom of Castle St, % ( 01252-735735, : farnhamstationtaxis and Costa (Mon-Sat 7am-7pm, Sun 9am- % .co.uk) or Home James ( 01252-722296, 6pm) on West St. For something more inde- : homejamestaxis.co.uk). pendent, The Spire Café (Mon-Fri 10am- 2pm, to noon on Sat) offers decent, warm Where to stay coffee (£1.50) served by decent, warm peo- Farnham now has a hostel: The Mulberry ple, as well as some great-value light meals % ( 01252-726673, : mulberryfarnham.co (soups £2.50) served Monday-Friday only. .uk; 1 x 2- / 3 x 4- /1 x 5-bed dorms; WI-FI) Back on Castle St, you can grab a quick sandwich from the smart kiosk, Emma @ sits near the station and has en suite dorms % furnished with between three and six beds, The Stirling ( 01252-727253; Mon-Fri with rates starting at £25pp – and you don’t 8am-4pm, Sat & Sun 9.30am-4pm, gen have to walk far from the pub in the closed on Sun in winter) at the southern end evening! of Castle St. ROUTE GUIDE ANDFor MAPS a great location and lodgings in an Castle St is also the best place to head historic property at a fair price it’s hard to for breakfasts. Near Caffè Nero is a branch % % beat 1 Park Row ( 01252-710249, : of that upmarket eatery Bill’s ( 01252- : 1parkrow.co.uk; 1S/1D shared bathroom, 716589, bills-website.co.uk; Mon-Sat 2D/1T all en suite; WI-FI). B&B costs £34- 8am-11pm, Sun to 10.30pm; WI-FI) charg- 44pp (sgl from £45, sgl occ £58-78). It’s ing £8.95 for their Full English; they also just off Castle St and next door to the pop- have some delicious lunchtime options ular Nelson Arms. (£10.50-15.95). Right by Caffè Nero, % : At No 73 Lodge Hill Rd, about 1.75km Gail’s ( 01252-722955, gailsbread.co south of the station off Tilford Rd, is the .uk/bakeries/farnham; Mon-Fri 7am-6pm, % spacious High Wray ( 01252-715589, : Sat, Sun & Bank Hols 8am-6pm) is a c5555827.myzen.co.uk; 2T, shared bath- branch of an ‘artisan bakery’ chain, though room; ; WI-FI; ) charging from £30pp. one that also does a fine line in breakfasts If location, not price, is your mantra with porridge (£4) and granola (£5.50). try the 17th-century former coaching inn, If this is all a bit fancy, on the corner of % : South St and the A325 (East St) is The Bush Hotel ( 01252-234800, % www.mercure.com; 94D or T, all en suite; Gorge ( 01252-726070; Mon-Sat 7am- ; WI-FI; ) on The Borough (though the 5pm, Sun 8.30am-4pm), where an all-day entrance is round the corner on South St). breakfast costs just £3.75. % : Rates vary depending on demand, though Brasserie Blanc ( 01252-899970, the rack rates are seldom less than £50pp brasserieblanc.com; Mon-Fri 9am-10pm, NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 5

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W We We Post Office Wheatsheaf To Farnham Castle, 150m To T o Farnham Castle, 150m 100m The The The Table T able Table e Hart ThThe Hart Bishop’s Bishop ’s Bishop’s Museum 50 of Farnham MAP 1a MAP 0 Farnham Tandoori T andoori Farnham NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 6

70 Farnham ______Sat 8.30am-10.30pm, Sun 9am-9pm) is one 01252-717000, : www.dominos.co.uk/ of celebrity chef Raymond Blanc’s babies. farnham; Mon-Thur 11am-11.30pm, Fri & It’s a cut above the quality – and cost – of Sat 11am-12.30am, Sun to 11pm) on East St. your average trekker’s repast with mains As a former brewery town, you’d starting at around £14.90 for a chicken expect to find a number of pubs, including salad, though they do offer a couple of several that serve food too. The Mulberry fixed price menus at lunchtime (£11.95 for (see Where to stay; Mon-Thur noon- two courses, £15.45 for three) that are bet- 2.30pm & 6-10pm, Fri & Sat noon-10pm, ter value. The food is lovely, of course, but Sun noon-8pm; WI-FI;  bar area only), maybe save this sort of fare for the end of opposite the station, does a nice line is tasty your trek – otherwise you may never start! % burgers including a Man versus Mulberry Across the way, Giggling Squid ( : challenge for £25: four 8oz burgers, four 01252-727552, gigglingsquid.com; Tue- house cheeses, tomatoes, red onion, dill Thur noon-10pm, Fri & Sat to 10.30pm, pickles, spicy salsa, pickled jalepeños, hash Sun & Mon to 9.30pm) is a Thai tapas browns, onion rings, ketchup, mayo and restaurant at lunchtime, an unusual combi- mustard – eat it all and you win a T-shirt! % nation, though it reverts to a more typical The Wheatsheaf ( 01252-717135, : Thai eatery at night, with that old favourite, thewheatsheaffarnham.co.uk; food Mon- green curry, for £9.95. % : Thur noon-2.30pm & 5.30-9.30pm, Fri & The Botanist ( 01252-718089, the Sat noon-9.30pm, Sun noon-8.30pm) uses botanist.uk.com; food Mon-Thur 11am- local ingredients to concoct some lovely 4pm & 6-11pm, Fri 11am-11pm, Sat & Sun dishes including a delicious chargrilled red 10am-11pm), on The Borough, has mains onion, cherry tomato and brie tart (£12.95). % from £10.95 up to £19.95 for a whole rotis- Nelson Arms ( 01252-712554, : serie chicken plus trimmings. nelson-arms.co.uk; food served Mon-Sat For takeaway fare, fish & chip fans – noon-2.30pm & 6-9.30pm, Sun noon-8pm), and many walkers are – should make for % on Castle St, is a low-beamed gastropub Traditional Plaice ( 01252-718009; dating back to the 16th century (so pre- Mon-Sat 11.30am-2.15pm & 5-10pm), at Nelson) with mains from £10 for the honey 50 Downing St. and mustard roast ham, two fried eggs & Indian food is at its best in Farnham at hand-cut chips. ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS % : The Mahaan ( 01252-718171, thema The Slug & Lettuce (: www.slugand haan.co.uk; daily noon-2pm & 5.30- lettuce.co.uk/farnham; ), on the A325 11.30pm) on East St, or try Farnham % : (East St), is a huge place, part of a chain Tandoori ( 01252-716853, farnham- and not to everyone’s taste. Nevertheless, tandoori.com; daily noon-2pm & 6- they serve good-value food (mains from 11.30pm, to midnight Fri & Sat), 47 West £7.79, with a beef & ale pie for £9.99) and St, with the ubiquitous chicken tikka they do allow dogs. masala at £11.50. % % For drinking only, The Lamb ( Back on Castle St, Zizzi ( 01252- : : 01252-714133, lambfarnham.co.uk; 719231, zizzi.co.uk; Mon-Sat 11.30am- Mon-Fri 11am-11pm, Sat noon-midnight, 11pm, Sun to 10.30pm) is a lively Italian Sun noon-10.30pm), on Abbey St, serves joint with pizzas from £7.95; on the subject % lovely Spitfire ale from Shepherd Neame. of pizzas, there’s a branch of Domino’s (

FARNHAM TO GUILDFORD [MAPS 1-6b] Not too strenuous, very pretty and punctuated by plenty of points of interest – this first 12-mile/19.3km (3hrs 50mins to 4hrs 50mins to a reunion with the River Wey and the turn-off to Guildford) stage of the NDW is, in many ways, a microcosm of the whole trail. (cont’d on p74) NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 7

Map 1, Farnham 71 ______2) AP (M OFF - 2) ANE TURN AP L (M OFF - LIGHTON B ANE TURN L MINS FROM LIGHTON 40-50 B MINS TO 40-50 ILN ILN K K HE HE T T MINS 10-15 ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS MINS 10-15 INFORMATION BOARD INFORMATION BOARD NDW NDW NDW-2 04a_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:23 Page 8

72 Farnham to Guildford ______3) AP (M OFF - 3) AP (M EALE TURN OFF S - URN T EALE MINS FROM S 30-35 MINS TO 30-35 OFF - OFF - URN T ANE L ANE TURN L LIGHTON LIGHTON B B ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS 1) AP (M ILN K HE 1) T AP (M ILN MINS TO K HE T 40-50 MINS FROM 40-50 NDW-2 04b_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:30 Page 58

192 Dover ______DOVER [MAP 66] tunnels used in the Napoleonic Wars and Neither Dover nor its Castle has anything WWII are fascinating. ‘ % of note to be said of them… and has it self The Roman Painted House ( an ill repaired, dangerous, and good for lit- 01304-203279, : theromanpaintedhouse. tle harbour and peir, very chargeable and org.uk; Jun-Sep Tue-Sat 10am-5pm, Sun 1- little worth.’ Daniel Defoe, writing in 1724 5pm, Apr-May Tue-Sat only; £3) was dis- in A Tour thro’ the Whole Island of Great covered in 1970 and reckoned to be one of Britain [note: the spelling ‘mistakes’ are all the best-preserved Roman buildings in Defoe’s!] England largely because it was buried to make way for a new building in AD270. Over ‘[Dover is] like other sea-port towns; but 400 sq metres of painted plaster survive. really much more clean, and with less Finally, a good view of the White blackguard people in it than I ever Cliffs of Dover is free from the Prince of observed in any sea-port before. It is a most Wales pier by the Hoverport. picturesque place, to be sure’ William Cobbett, writing in 1823 in Rural Rides. Services % Dover struggles as a destination. People The tourist information centre (TIC; : either pass through on the way to the 01304-201066, whitecliffscountry.org Continent or use it as a gateway to some- .uk; Mon-Sat 9.30am-5pm, Easter-Sep Sun where else in England. As with any busy 10am-3pm) is on Market Square. port town it has its fair share of life’s flot- The chemists Boots (Mon-Thur 9am- sam and jetsam and after the cultural high 5.30pm, Fri & Sat 8.45am-5.30pm, Sun point of Canterbury it’s a disappointment. 10am-4pm) and Superdrug (Mon-Sat There’s an impressive castle, a museum, a 8.30am-5.30pm, Sun 10am-4pm) are on fine Roman house and a view of the White Cannon St, above Market Sq, and there are Cliffs but little else to keep you here long. two banks (Barclays and Lloyds) with ATMs on Market Sq conveniently located What to see and do in the heart of town and right on the trail. Dover Museum (: dovermuseum.co.uk; There is a post office on Pencester Rd free; same phone and opening hours as the in a Costcutter (Mon-Sat 7am-10pm, Sun TIC, see Services), on Market Square in the 8am-8pm) and a Londis supermarket ROUTEtourist GUIDE AND MAPS information centre, has extensive (Mon-Thur 6am-10pm, Fri-Sun to 11pm) exhibits on the town’s history since 1066 as on the southern side of Market Square. well as the Bronze Age Boat Gallery, where you can see the remains of the oldest seago- Transport ing vessel, dating back to 1500BC. Trains operated by SE Railway (see box % Dover Castle ( 01304-211067, : pp42-3) go from Dover Priory to London english-heritage.org; Apr-Sep 10am-6pm, Victoria, Charing Cross and St Pancras. Oct 10am-5pm, Nov & Mar 10am-4pm National Express coach service though check on website as closed on cer- NX007 (see p44) operates to London via tain days; £19.40) ‘guardian of the gateway Canterbury from Pencester Rd bus station. to England’ is strategically placed on the Stagecoach’s bus services No 89/89A White Cliffs of Dover. It’s a prime site for (to Canterbury/Aylesham) and 15 (to Canter- English Heritage and the tours of the secret bury) also call at Pencester Rd; see pp45-8. ______(Opposite) Top: In Dover, by the end of the North Downs Way (see p189) is a bench with metal silhouettes of three local icons – James Bond creator Ian Fleming, Dame Vera Lynn, and 2012 Olympic torchbearer Jamie Clark. Middle: A former owner of Chilham Castle (see p169) replaced some of the high brick wall with railings, thereby allowing walkers glimpses of this splendid Jacobean home. Bottom: Many of the buildings in the centre of Canterbury are several hundred years old, such as this house, now a restaurant (see p180). (Overleaf) Dating back to the 11th century, Dover Castle overlooks the town centre. NDW-2 Colour map layout-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 28/2/18 6:06 pm Page 2

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Map 66, Dover 193 ______

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M 11 a 8 nw ToTownwallw St (A20) nt Dover Museum ce res & TIC C loo er Alternative at Strait W route of Dover Rd e g End of rid Drop Redoubt b 073 te St NDW Napoleonic Fort a arg CamCambridge Rd SnSnargate St To Prince of 0 250 500m Wales Pier and views back to Dover Castle NDW-2 04b_Layout 1 27/02/2018 21:30 Page 60

194 Dover ______Where to stay an upmarket B&B. They charge £27.50- Campers will find the closest pitch is over 39.50pp (sgl occ rates on request). % % : three miles away at Hawthorn Farm ( Blakes ( 01304-202194, blakesof 01304-852658, : keatfarm.co.uk/holiday- dover.com; 1D/2Qd, all en suite; WI-FI), at 52 park-homes/hawthorn-farm; Mar-Nov; WI- Castle St, charges £32.50pp (sgl occ room FI; ), situated at Martin Mill, off the rate) for room only. A continental/cooked A258. To get there it’s best to take the train breakfast costs £3.95/7.95. to Martin Mill station (8 mins; 1-2/hr) and walk about 400m from there. Now part of Where to eat and drink the Keat Farm network of campsites, a Dover is not a culinary centre. The town pitch for a one-/two-man tent for walkers does have its fair share of representatives of costs £16-17. the international and national chains, % Dover Backpackers ( 01304- including Costa (Mon-Sat 7am-6.30pm, 202108, : doverbackpackers.wordpress Sun 8.30am-5pm), Subway (Mon-Sat 7am- .com; 2 x 2-/2 x 3-/1 x 4-/1 x 5-/1 x 6-bed 8pm, Sun 10am-6pm), McDonald’s (daily rooms, some en suite; WI-FI; ) is part of 6am-9pm) and Greggs (Mon-Sat 7am- Castle Inn on Dolphin Lane which claims 9.30pm, Sun 10am-6pm). Wetherspoon’s also have a representative, The Eight Bells to be the ‘last bar in Britain’ and, as such, % boasts that it has had three of The Beatles, ( 01304-205030; food daily 8am-11pm) Sir Cliff Richard and the actor Hugh Grant with good-value food served throughout the as guests! What they’d make of the place day and evening – though dogs are not these days is anyone’s guess for it’s fair to allowed inside the pub. say that the bar doesn’t seem to attract quite For simple no frills cafeteria-style food the same calibre of customer. Online supplied by a local outlet, try the spotless reviews are decidedly mixed, though it is Dovorian (Mon-Fri 9am-6pm, Sat 9am- cheap enough, with dorm beds starting at 5.30pm) on Worthington St. The Formica- around £15pp, private rooms from £46. topped tables fill up fast at lunch-time when They also have a branch called Dover the blue-rinse brigade descend for large % Adventure Backpackers ( 01304-215563; portions of their all-day breakfast (£5.95). 1 x 6- / 1 x 10-bed dorm; one/two rooms They also run a chippy where haddock sleeping four/five people; shared shower costs £7.50.

ROUTE GUIDE AND MAPS % : block) on East Cliff down by the ferry port; Curry Garden ( 01304-206357, a dorm bed costs from £16pp, private currygardendover.co.uk; Mon-Wed & Fri rooms from £36. Use of kitchen facilities. 5.3-11pm, Sat & Sun noon-2.15pm & 5- Walking into town on the trail, after 11.30pm), on High St, dishes out the stan- dard repertoire of curries (tandoori chicken turning left into Maison Dieu Rd, there is % the walker friendly Maison Dieu from £6.99) and La Scala ( 01304- % : Guesthouse ( 01304-204033, : maison- 208044, lascalarestaurant.org.uk; Mon- dieu.co.uk; 1S/2D/1T/1D or T/1Qd, all en Sat 6-10pm) is a friendly Italian restaurant suite or with private facilities; WI-FI; Mar- where a bowl of pasta cooked with sword- Dec) charges £27.50-42.50pp (sgl from £40, fish, onions tomatoes basil & white wine sgl occ room rate). Breakfast is £7 extra. costs £10.95. % % St Albans ( 01304-206308, : Little Kitchen ( 01304-201111; accommodation-dover.co.uk; 2S/4D, all en Mon-Sat 8am-3.30pm) is a fast-food suite; WI-FI) is closest to the railway station. restaurant and café just west of Market Square on King St. Across the road, for Room rates are £22.50-50pp (sgl £35-80, % sgl occ room rate). Breakfast is only served takeaway foods Dover Kebab House ( in the main season and is an extra cost. 01304-205676; daily 5pm-midnight) is the Out on East Cliff, at No 14, on the most convenient for Market Square. seafront below the Castle is Loddington And if it’s a glass of wine you’re after % House Hotel ( 01304-201947, : lod- try Blakes (see Where to stay) which serves dingtonhousehotel.co.uk; 2T en suite, 3D food (Mon-Sat noon-11pm, Sun noon-9pm) private facilities; ; WI-FI) which is really and has good beer and a cellar bar (). NDW-2 Colour map layout-Q9_Pemb-2 Colour map layout.qxp 28/2/18 6:06 pm Page 3

A30 FRIMLEY Bisley A327 4 Knaphill WOKING Deepcut

M3 4a Brookwood B3012 FARNBOROUGHFARNBOROUGH Mayford Send Fox Corner

B3013 WorplesdonWorplesdon A320 A325 Fairlands A331 A324 A323A3 23 Wood A323 Street Normandy GUILDFORD Ewshot ALDERSHOT A287 Badshot Lea WanboroughWanborough TonghamTongham A3 MAP 7 Hale A31 MAP 5 Puttenham Seale Runfold Shalford Compton MAP 6 Farnham MAP 4 Chilworth MAP 2 MAP 3 MAP 1 Binscombe A31 Shackleford WreccleshamWrecclesham Frith Hill B3001 Bramley Godalming Shamley Holt Pound Holloway Elstead Green Hill Milford B213B2130

A281 Frensham A287 A3 0 Wheelerstreet Hascombe 0 3 miles

6 A2A283 8 Churt 83 0 5km A2

250m 200 Puttenham 150 Seale 100 Turn for Guildford 50 Farnham 0 miles 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12

Guildford Dover Maps 1-6 Farnham Farnham to Guildford 12 miles/19.3km – 3hrs 50mins-4hrs 50mins NOTE: Add 20-30% to these times to allow for stops

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CANTERBUERBURYRY WickhambreauxWickhambreaux AA256256 A257 A257 Littlebourne Sandwich MAP 57 WinghamWingham Ash MAP 56 AA2 AA2050 2 Bekesbourne 2 0 Staple 50 Bramling Patrixbourne WerthWerth MAP 58 B2046 Eastry A258 Bridge Adisham

A256 Bishopsbourne AyleshamAylesham Kingston Deal MAP 59 Woolage WomenswoldWomenswold Village MAP 61 Walmer Barham MAP 60 MAP 64 Bossinghamgham MAP 63 Ashley A258 Shepherdswell Ringwould Denton AA22 Stellingg Minniss MAP 62 LyddenLydden MAP 65 Rhodes Elham Whitfield A2 Minnis St Margaret’s

A260 at Cliffe Stowtingg MAP C Alkham LymingeLyminge Densole DOVER

Etchinghilltchinghill MAP D A20 MAP 66 Capel- E n g l i s h B2011B2011 AycliffAycliff Postlingostling le-Ferne C h a n n e l AA20 MAP F 20 13 12 MAP E FOLKESTONEFOLKESTONE

250m WomenswoldWomenswold 200 Patrixbourne Woolage Shepherdswell 150 Village 100 Canterbury Dover 50 Ashley 0 miles 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 191918

Maps 56-62, Canterbury to Shepherdswell 10.8 miles/17.4km – 2hrs 40 mins-3hrs 25 mins Chilham Canterbury Maps 62-66 Shepherdswell Shepherdswell to Dover Boughton Dover Lees 8.6 miles/13.8km – 2hrs 35 mins-3¼hrs

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Dover 65 64 Ashley Broadstairs 66 63

tone F 62

estonees o e 61

k t n E

FolkFo 60 Patrixbourne D 59 10 20km 57 58 Herne Bay

Hythe C Canterbury 56 Shepherdswell 55 B

I 00 5 10 miles 54

TTIVE 52

A 51 53 A

RN 50 Whitstable

ROUTE Map 55 – p172 Canterbury (outskirts) Map 56 – pp176-7 Canterbury centre Map 57 –Êp181 Patrixbourne Map 58 –Êp183 Bridge Map 59 – p184 Barham Downs Map 60 – p185 Womenswold Map 61 – p186 Longlane Farm Map 62 – p187 Shepherdswell Park Map 63 –Êp189 Waldershare Ashley Map 64 – p190 Map 65 – p191 Dover (outskirts) Map 66 – p193 Dover centre – p196 (Alternative Route) A Map Map B – p197 (Alternative Route) Map C – p198 (Alternative Route) Map D – p199 (Alternative Route) Map E – p199 (Alternative Route) Map F – p200 (Alternative Route)

LTERN Faversham 49

ALT A 48 Chilham

o 47 Charing Sheerness 46 45

AshfAshford Sittingbourne 44 M20

ye M2 43

RRye

Hollingbourne

8 8 8 8 8 8 8

2 2 2 2 A2 A A A A A2 41 A2 42 42 40 39 Chatham 38 36 37 Rochester 35 34 NORTH DOWNS WAY 33 Tilbury Maidstone 32 Snodland Royal 31 Map 37 – p144 Robin Hood pub Map 38 –Êp145 Blue Bell Hill Map 39 –Êp149 Harp Farm Thurnham Map 40 –Êp151 Map 41 –Êp152 Coldblow Farm Map 42 – p153 Hollingbourne Map 43 –Êp155 Mile Hill Map 44 – p157 Lenham Map 45 –Êp159 Cobham Farm Map 46 –Êp160 Charing Map 47 –Êp161 Beacon Hill Quarry Map 48 – p163 Westwell Map 49 –Êp165 Boughton Lees Map 50 – p166 Soakham Downs Map 51 – p167 Godmersham Park Map 52 –Êp169 Chilham Map 53 –Êp170 Old Wives Lees Map 54 –Êp171 Chartham Hatch 30 Tonbridge T onbridge M26 Tunbridge Wells Tunbridge T unbridge W ells 29 thf Northfleet 28 Heathfield Heathfield HeathfH e d 27 Otford 26 Crowborough Sevenoaks M25 25 Dartford 24 Edenbridge Swanley 23 22 Oxted East 21 Orpington Lewisham 20 Grinstead 19 18 Merstham M23 h FARNHAM – DOVER via CANTERBURY FARNHAM Croydon a d Redhill 17 Caterham yw r 16 Heath Heath Heat H Heath Haywards HaywaH ds Haywards Map 19 – p110 Caterham Viewpoint Map 19 – p110 Hill Tandridge Map 20 – p111 Chalk Pit Lane Map 21 – p113 Church Hill Map 22 – p117 Betsoms Hill Map 23 – p119 Map 24 – p122 Knockholt Map 25 – p123 Chevening Map 26 – p125 Otford & Dunton Green Map 27 – p128 Kemsing Ash Map 28 –Êp129 Cotman’s Map 29 – p131 Wrotham Map 30 –Êp132 Hognore Wood Country Park Trosley Map 31 –Êp133 Map 32 – p135 Holly Hill Map 33 – p136 Wingate Wood Map 34 –Êp137 Cuxton Map 35 – p138 River Medway Map 36 –Êp139 S of Mutton Wood 15 Airport Airport Gatwick Gatwick 14 Reigate Sutton LONDON Crawley 13 Wimbledon 12 11 Dorking 10 Cobham Horsham 9 Leatherhead Chertsey 8 h Thames M25 rth orth Staines-upon- 7 w wo e t Guildford Petworth Petworth PPe Petw t 6 M3 Godalming 5 Woking W oking Ascot 4 3 Haslemere Windsor Hindhead r t Farnborough u st 2 h START d dh 1 Farnham Lightwater Midhurst Midhurst M d t MAP KEY Map 1 – p71 Farnham KEY MAP Map 2 – p72 Furze Hill Map 3 – p73 Seale Map 4 – p75 Puttenham Map 5 – p77 Compton Map 6 – p79 Shalford Map 7 –Êp85 Chilworth Map 8 – p87 Newlands Corner Map 9 – p89 Shere Map 10 – p92 Hackhurst Downs Hole – p93 Pickett’s Map 11 Map 12 – p95 Ranmore Common Map 13 – p97 Box Hill Map 14 – p101 Box Hill Village Map 15 – p103 Bucklands Hills Map 16 – p105 Reigate Hill Map 17 – p108 Merstham Map 18 – p109 Quarry Hangers NR Frimley North Downs Way North Downs Way Aldershot Bracknell Bordon

Job: 701071 Title:North Downs Way 2 DTP: FF Page: Map_12 701071 - North Downs Way 2_cvr_- 5/3/18 1:56 pm Page 1

edited maps drawn by walkers for walkers. through the protected land- FARNHAM TO DOVER

DISTRIBUTED IN UK & IRELAND BY % THE TRAVEL ALLIANCE 01225 406440 Price in UK UK£11.99

DISTRIBUTED IN USA BY NBN % 1-800-462-6420 www.nbnbooks.com 2 Price in USA US$19.95 EDN

ISBN 978-1-905864-90-4 7819059 864904 2nd edition

Job: 701071 Title: North Downs Way 2 701071-1 DTP: FF Page: cvr