OCTOBER, 1916. PRICE, 25 CENTS A COPY. $2.00 A YEAR

T M H R E S. kP J A A N C K P A L 0 N D I 0 C N E 'S X L P 0 0 G 0 F T H 0 E ICI HMLTN S CLOSED DU N 620 A .M5 R

HAWAIIAN GAZETTE ENG. K J. J. WILLIAMS PHOTO VoL. XII. No. 4. HONOLULU, HAWAII.

peedy Trains in New South Wales The Mother State of the Australian Commonwealth.

The World's Famous Railway Bridge Over the llawkesbury River, N. S. W.

All the year round New South Wales is railway bridge. Here is to be found the best place for the tourist. From Syd- glorious river scenery as well as excellent ney and New Castle, as well as from points fishing and camping grounds. By rail also in other states, there are speedy trains, with is reached the splendid trout fishing streams comfortable accommodations, at very cheap of New South Wales, stocked with fry. rates to the interesting points of the Mother yearling and two year old trout. State of the Australian Commonwealth. Beautiful waterfalls abound throughout Within a few hours by rail of the metrop- the state and all beauty spots are reached olis of Sydney are located some of the most after a few hours' comfortable trip from wonderful bits of scenery in the world. It Sydney. is but a half afternoon's train ride to the beautiful Blue Mountains, particularly fa- Steamship passengers arriving at Sydney mous for the exhilarating properties of at- disembark at Circular Quay. Here the mosphere. Here and in other parts of the city tramways (electric traction) converge, state are the world's most wonderful and and this is the terminus of thirty routes, beautiful limestone caverns. Those of varying from two to eleven miles in length. Jenolan are known by fame in every land. One of the best means of seeing the pic- Reached by the south coast railways are turesque views and places of interest about the surf bathing and picnicing resorts famed Sydney is to travel around them all by elec- throughout Australia and even abroad. tric tram. The cost is trifling, as the fares on Within a score of miles of Sydney is the the state railways are low. The seeretary beautiful Hawkesbury river and its great of the railway system is J. S. Spurway. „,,,,.,,,,,,,,..,,,,,,,,,,mi,„.• • •„:„„in„,,..- • 11” filib-Parifir filagazittr .

• CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORI) • • • • VOLUME XII. No. 4. Ei■

• CONTENTS FOR OCTOBER, 1916. 1 • Our Art Section 302 . The Pan-Pacific Pageant at the Mid-Pacific Carnival - 317 Cruising in Cannibal Waters 333 (From the Log of the Snark.) • Charmian Kittredge London. • • In Upland Java 339 • From the Editor's Diary. • • • Old Hawaiian Games in Honolulu 345 •. • By W. D. Westervelt. • • • Kyoto, the Heart of Japan 349 . • By Frank Deardoff. • • The Evolution of "Bunny" in Australia 355 • By E. S. Sorenson. I. The Power of the Kahuna 359 E By J. S. Emerson. • g Advice to Maori Warriors 365 • • By Tuta Nihoniho. " E. . Maui, the Tourists' Mecca 371 1 • By Worth 0. Aiken. • China's Holy Mountain 375 I • By J. H. McKinnon. • Country Cricket in Australia 381 • By C. R. Hogue. • • The Land of the "Bird of Paradise" 385 • • By H. W. Kinney. • • . Progress in the Philippines 389 • By Monroe Wooley. • • Marquesan and Tahitian Homes 393 . • By W. T. Brigham, A.M., Sc.D. • • Encyclopedia of Hawaii and the Pacific. . i .i. 011r fitth-rarifir 1 agazitte It. • Published by ALEXANDER HUME FORD, Honolulu, T. H. Printed by the Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Ltd. Yearly subscriptions in the United States and possessions, $2.00 in advance. ki.,--- • Canada and Mexico, $2.50. For all foreign countries, 53.00. Single copies, 25e. A Entered as matter at the Honolulu Postoffice. • second-class ii • Permission is given to republish articles from the Mid-Pacific Magazine when credit is given 0- • A WoriermiVFW ,nlnniffir2EtEMM al The Government Tourist Bureau of South Australia has ,harge of the scenic wonders of the State, and about Adelaide it has created park reserves second to none in the world. This is the Second Fall in the Morialta Falls Reserve. This is a bit of typical scenery, Morialta Falls Reserve, in South Australia, conducted as a park by the South Australian Government Tourist Bureau, one of the most efficient bureaus of its kind in the world. Every- where about Adelaide there is mountain scenery that would form a splendid background for a diorama of the city for the Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu in 1919. !!!IMAMMILAPAIMPAIMIMMOVAMMIKPLPIDWVIVAIWAIMPI • •VIP.) • IMP,WIMAIMIIMPRAIGIVIRIPIAIKSM9 •

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One view of the Second Fall, Waterfall Gully Reserve, near Adelaide in South Australia, to which the motor-busses of the Government Tourist Bureau take visitors for an afternoon's outing. The scenery is typically Australian.

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A view of the First Fall, Morialta Falls Reserve, which, with its surroundings, much resembles a scene in Colorado Canyon, but this is owned and cared for by the State as a holiday resort for the people and to attract tourists.

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This is a picture of the oldest of the Pala Indians, near San Diego, and the most skilful Indian potter in the world. She is teaching the younger Pala Indians the art of their ancestors, and will have the opportunity of becoming a guest of the Pan-Pacific Club 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival in Honolulu. loiltriltriMIANIVigaraNtitaiiiNvirra\ •lt• trin• n • •triN nfsn n M Ei i nI the fRiblittrifir flittgazint CONDUCTED BY ALEXANDER HUME FORD

VOLUME XII. OCTOBER, 1916. No. 4.

21 bit of the Floral Parade.

The Pan-Pacific Pageant at the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival, Honolulu •

T IS proposed to hold the Pan-Pacific Every year there is held in February in Exposition in Honolulu in 1919-1920, Honolulu a great Mid-Pacific Carnival to I because this city is at the very com- which the world is invited. The Pan- mercial and trade center of the Great Pacific Club has been asked to take over Ocean. The beginning of this work is the the big opening day of the 1917 Carnival, already-established Pan-Pacific Commercial that it may indicate what may be hoped and Industrial Museum maintained by the for in the way of co-operation from the Pan-Pacific Club in Honolulu. many races in the effort to make the 1919

317 318 THE MID-PACIFIC

A grass house that will form but the background of one of the large Hawaiian historical floats in the• 1917 Pan-Pacific Pageant in Honolulu.

Pan-Pacific Exposition in Honolulu a suc- with all its accessories and entertainments. cess. After the luau will be given the great Pan- The program as outlined for -the Pan- Pacific Pageant and Floral Parade, in Pacific Club in opening the 1917 Mid- which the people of every land about the Pacific Carnival includes the landing, on Great Ocean are invited to participate. the morning of Monday, February the Then will occur at the National Guard 19th, of the Carnival Kings, arriving Armory, the Pan-Pacific Banquet, with from every land of the Pacific. The tables set for a thousand guests about the progress of this procession will be marked great central open floor space, in which by the firing of bombs, the setting off of will be seen during the meal the native dayfireworks, and the letting loose of the dancing of all Pacific races. Later there Carnival Spirit along the line of this mad will be the big Ball-of-all-Nations, in the race, from the landing stage up the main Palace Park, and as no one will be admit- streets to the Pan-Pacific Park, wher'e, ted to any of these functions unless in some about the Liliuokalani Falls, and in honor picturesque costume of the Pacific, the of Hawaii's Ex-Queen, will be held the Carnival spirit will be inevitable and un- great luau or native Hawaiian feast, for limited. twelve hundred guests. Upon the rocky It is proposed to show during the even- cliffs above the Falls will be seen the be- ing parade, models on specially constructed ginning of the permanent Hawaiian village floats of the different Pacific buildings of the 1919 Exposition, for these grounds which will probably be erected for the 1919 are included in the Exposition site. Here Exposition, as well as about a dozen large will be baked the scores of pigs in the working models of the Hawaiian dioramas imus or underground ovens, and here on that are to be a feature of the international the cliffs where all may see -while they are show. feasting on the plateau below, will be a But to return to the great Pan-Pacific real Royal Hawaiian luau of the old days, Pageant, the feature of the 1917 Mid- THE MID-PACIFIC 319

Pan-Pacific On such a float, the grass house will occupy the rear of the platform in the 1917 Pageant in Honolulu, while an historical tableau will adorn the foreground of the float.

Pacific Carnival. The Carnival head- Those who enter automobiles will be quarters have been moved to the Pan-Pa- asked to select different flowers, vines cific rooms, and here is being made an ex- and ferns of Hawaii with which to make tensive display of designs for all kinds of their decorations, and any of these that floats and automobiles. are not in bloom in February will have Already more than one hundred entries to be created artificially, for it is proposed for the Pageant and Floral Parade have in a large section of the parade to show been secured by the Pan-Pacific workers, the flora of the Hawaiian Islands, as well and an effort is being made to get each par- as of other Pacific lands. Already, ticipant to immediately select the model for instance, Australia has entered an auto- for his float or the plan of decorations for mobile that will be decorated with the wat- his automobile, so that the Pan-Pacific tle, while New South Wales has promised Club may have the platform ready for the to send the waratah blossoms for decora- floats and the heavy wire frames made for tions and a kangaroo as the occupant of its the automobiles. There are hundreds of car in the parade. New Zealand will have pictures hanging on the walls in the rooms a car decorated with the rata flower, and from which designs may be selected, and arrangements are well under way to have as much of the material for the decorations a dozen Japanese firms put in as many will have to be ordered from the mainland, automobiles, each decorated in a Japan- it is proposed to do all of the ordering in ese flower; emblematic of one of the months a wholesale manner at one time, although of the year. whenever it is possible the work of mak- California will, of course, be represented ing the artificial flowers and decorations by a car covered with poppies, and Oregon will be given to the people of the different with a rose car, while the Chinese will nationalities of Honolulu, and it is pro- make entry of a car resplendent with their posed to make all of the costumes for Pan- lily. Pictures of most of these flowers in Pacific Day, in Hawaii. their natural colors are already on exhibi- 320 THE MID-PACIFIC

The scenes on the floats in the Hawaiian section of the Pan-Pacific Pageant in 1917 will show in part the ancient industries of the Hawaiians. Chief of these was the pounding of poi, the native food.

tion in the Pan-Pacific rooms and those who The Pan-Pacific Pageant will precede the have additional pictures of this sort are automobile section, which will be mostly- asked to lend them, that those making of floral designs representative of Hawaii entries may be encouraged. and the different Pacific lands. The Pan- Scores of the best decorated automobiles Pacific Club has secured the use of a large of past years may be seen in enlarged photo- lot and will begin at once the construction graphs and some of them in color, and while of the platforms on which the floats are to a number of automobile entries have al- be built. These platforms will be of uni- ready been made, the Pan-Pacific Club in- form size, eleven by twenty-two feet, and tends to make this a record that may not will be delivered to different parts of the again be soon broken. The plan now is to city that the superstructure and decora- have frames of heavy wire built to fit the tions may be added by those who make the• different makes of cars and wrapped with entries. cotton-batten so as not to bruise the varnish. Every boy with a bicycle or man with a It will be possible to decorate these frames motorcycle will be asked to participate in• with the flowers, real or artificial, so that the February pageant. The bicycles will the automobile need not be out of commis- lead in the pageant immediately behind' sion more than a few hours on the day of Father Neptune, the surfboard riders and the parade. The flowers will be delivered, the canoeists. They will all represent the and then called for by the Pan-Pacific Club, marvelous, gaudy fish of Hawaiian waters, as they will be part of its permanent fixtures and unique plans will be adopted for pre- for future events. senting the ocean effect. THE MID-PACIFIC 321

A part of the 1917 Pan-Pacific Pageant in the annual Mid-Pacific Carnival will consist of the escort to receive the Carnival "Kings." The Hawaiian contigent will be costumed as of old.

About one hundred fish in color are on many strange vehicles from different Pa- exhibition in the Pan-Pacific rooms and the cific lands, many of which are easily pro- cyclists are asked to make their selections curable in Honolulu, and the designs for from these as models. There are also which may be studied in the Pan-Pacific photographs of the bicycle fish brigades of rooms. years gone by. Every assistance will be Everyone connected with the Pan-Pacific given those who enter this section in work- Pageant and Floral Parade in February, ing out a splendid harmonious whole. De- 1917, even the drivers, will have to ap- signs in which wire gauze will play a large pear in costume of some Pacific land, and part are being perfected that the motor- whenever possible, horses will be led instead cyclists may carry unique floral effects that of driven. The Pan-Pacific workers have will hide their machines. secured scores of photographs and color Another feature of the parade in which cards of Pan-Pacific costumes. There is all races are asked to participate is the one quite a large exhibit of Japanese costumes, that will depict the modes of transportation from the rice field peasant to the royal and conveyances used in different Pacific family. These, as well as the costumes lands. In the Pan-Pacific rooms are pic- of China, Korea, Siberia, the Philippines, tures in color of the jinricksha and the Java and the South Sea Islands may be jinricksha man, as well as Japanese kaga. studied, and arrangements will be made Then there is the carabao-drawn thatched to have these put together here in Hono- wagon of the Philippines; the wheelbarrow lulu at a very low cost to the wearer. with sails, of China ; the sedan chair ; the If the plans of the Pan-Pacific workers bullock wagon of Mexico, ant in fact carry, a wonderful striking feature of 322 THE MID-PACIFIC

Making matting from the pandanus or lauhala leaves was one of the ancient Hawaiian indus- tries that is to be shown in tableaux on the floats of the Pan-Pacific Pageant in Honolulu, February 19, 1917.

the parade, will be the models of the Ha- or may be persuaded to do so, there is waiian dioramas that are to be a part of quite an exhibit of photo suggestions in the Pan-Pacific Exposition in 1919. Al- the Pan-Pacific rooms, which everyone ready a number of these models have been with a "float" idea in his head is invited promised by different organizations and to visit and study. Here he may see how business firms, and they will be mounted a Tongan grass house may be easily built on the trucks with the real workers in the and placed on a float, or how an exquisite- foreground, that the people of Hawaii may ly-colored Japanese pagoda would look. understand just what is the diorama, which Ideas are given in these pictures for a float is creating a revolution in exposition meth- of the ukulele girl; another with the Ha- ods. waiian maker of fish nets as the center of The number, variety, and diversity of attraction ; another of the poi pounding the floats in the 1917 Carnival probably process, while it will also be seen how the will surprise the conservative element in lauhala mat industry may be shown most Honolulu. There will be floats from every attractively on a float, as well as that of Pacific country and from every Pacific na- beating tapa. tionally. Floats have already been prom- In fact there is such a fund of pho- ised from each of the Hawaiian Islands, tographic suggestions being gathered for the and the public schools of Honolulu will 1917 Carnival, that those who wish to co- build and create a number of educational operate in making the carnival the greatest and historical tableaux on the floats that trat Hawaii has ever known, are invited are to be sent to the school yards. For to see the collection, and make suggestions. those who have already promised to pro- By starting early and having a knowl- vide floats for- the Pan-Pacific Pageant, edge of entries far in advance, the Pan- THE MID-PACIFIC, 323

The Curators and staff of the Bishop Museum will supervise the construction of the ancient grass houses used on the floats in the 1917 Pan-Pacific Pageant during, Carnival Week in Honolulu. Above is a model grass house in the museum.

Pacific Club believes that it can give a costume who will lead the horses, and in Floral Parade and Pageant that as a whole some instances a band of a hundred school will be more interesting and unique than children in costume will haul some of the any so far provided by any city in the floats. world. Along the line of parade will be one A feature of the great pageant will be or more commemorative Pan-Pacific arches, the Hawaiian section of fifty-two floats, and before the grandstands will be played and in this, typical Hawaiian floats will old Hawaiian games while the people are tell the story of Hawaii from the first waiting for the arrival of the first floats colonization of the islands by Samoans, of the procession. 1000 years ago, to the present time. In the story of Hawaii it is proposed to The cooperation of the public schools have the first float show the Samoans in has been secured as this entire section will their catamaranned outrigger canoe in mid- be of an educational nature. The plat- ocean, following the flight of the birds forms for the floats will be built this sum- leading them to Hawaii. The second float mer and erected in the different school will show the joy of the half-starved remn- yards so that they may be decorated there ant of Samoans as they sight from their and ready on the opening day of the Carni- canoe a possible landing at Upolu Point. val for the big trucks to slip under the The next float after the landing will show platforms on which they will be lowered, the Samoans gathering the pill grass with and everything will then be ready for the which to build the first houses on Hawaii, procession. and then with the assistance of the Ka- It is intended that every historical de- mehameha Boys' School will come three tail shall be accurate. The floats will rep• floats showing the different stages in the resent only the scenes depicted, and instead construction of an old Hawaiian house. of drivers there will be nyn in Hawai'ai Next will come the floats showing the pro- 324 THE MID-PACIFIC

The modern Hawaiians are still loyal to poi, the boiled and pounded taro root, and they love to sit upon their lauhala mats around the poi bowl. Such a tableau will be shown in the Hawaiian section of the Pan-Pacific Club floats in the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival.

cess of net making and the art of fishing, following will be Kamehameha the Great and then the life of the people ashore, and his suite receiving a hokopu. from the planting of the taro to the plac- Then will follow the floats depicting the ing of the pig in the imu or underground native sports of the Hawaiians; spear- oven. The life of people will be shown throwing, on one, by muscular warriors; even to the gathering of the limu, the the rolling of the stone discuss on another; growing of the mulberry tree, the stripping and even the ancient sleds that whizz down and cleaning of its bark, the beating of the mountain side on the grass will be this into tapa, and even the making of the shown with their riders. A float will be dye from various roots with which the tapa given over to the surfrider and one to the is marked with various desigsn. kahuna or "witch doctor," with which be- From now on the people on the floats gins a new historical series, for next we are Hawaiians clothed in Hawaiian tapa, have the interior of an ancient Hawaiian and the beginning of the native industries temple, then the heiau, with its sacrifice, is shown from the gathering of the lau- perhaps, and the next the City of Refuge, hala and the weaving of this into mats. with its escaped victim who has fallen frn - On another float will be shown the process fatigue just within the sacred precincts. of building the koa canoe. A float will be The arrival of Captain Cook will be given over to showing how the now extinct shown after these floats, and then will birds of Hawaii were caught in the trees come the burning of the idols, which ends by liming, and on the next float the dainty the story of old, old Hawaii; for with the red and yellow feathers from these birds landing of Kamehameha at Waikiki begins will be shown in the weaving into cloaks a new order of things in Hawaii. It is and royal robes, or formed into kahilis that proposed even to show on one of the floats are borne before the king, for on the float a tableau of the Pali and the arrival th,-re THE MID-PACIFIC 325

Hat and mat weaving are Hawaiian industries of today that will appear in tableau upon the Pan-Pacific floats in the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival. This section will be under the direction of the Honolulu schools, and will be educational in its scope. of the first few of the great army that schools and educational organizations, and Kamehameha drove over the precipice. work is now progressing on organizing the Next will be shown the first arrivals of people of the different races of the Pacific another great conquering army—the mis- in Hawaii, and from the different coun- sionaries. Following this will be the story tries about the big ocean to enter another of Kaahumanu defying the Goddess Pele; fifty-two floats that will show the native then the arrival of the whalers, the danc- life and industries of the Pan-Pacific ing of the hula and the drinking of awa, people. this followed by a float showing the gentle The Pan-Pacific Club is fortunate in hav are of lei making. The float which will ing the assistance and co-operation of three show the pa-u riders has already been of the best artists of Pacific lands: Lionel entered, as is that showing the making of Walden, the American artist, whose surf- the ukulele. riding pictures won the gold medal at the Then will come the first float of the Paris Salon ; Ambrose Patterson, the Aus- really modern, up-to-date Hawaiian, on tralian artist, whose bizarre effects in his which will be shown the college glee club paintings of Oriental life in Hawaii have of Hawaiian boys with their musical in- placed him in the foremost rank among struments and songs of the islands. Float artists, and D. Howard Hitchcock, whose number 51 will be prepared for the recep- pictures of Hawaiian scenes have for over tion of the mayor and city council, while a generation made Hawaiian color known the last float of all will be sacred to the abroad. These artists are planning many emblem of Hawaii. of the effects and floats for the Pan-Pacific These are the plans for the Hawaiian Pageant, the foremost feature of which will portion of the big parade in February so be the great Pacific wave that will sweep far outlined by the workers in the Pan- down Honolulu's main artery, carrying on Pacific Club, and already arrangements its crest Father Neptune, and in the hollow have been made for these floats to be enter- of the billow the most famous surf-riders ed and decorated by the different public of Hawaii. On this long billow that 326 THE MID-PACIFIC

The first reviewing stands of the early Mid-Pacific Carnivals was the broad galleries that sur- round the old Royal Palace. For the 1917 Pan-Pacific Pageant, historic arches and tropical grand stands will be erected for the pleasure and comfort of the visitors.

Lionel Walden has planned to design to The idea of beginning the Mid-Pacific stretch across the main street from curb Carnival of 1917 in Honolulu with the ar- to curb and to rush onward tossing the out- rival of the Carnival Kings from all Pacific rigger canoes and the surf-boards in its ad- lands, seems to have already created a favor- vancing foam, will be seen every style of able impression around the Pacific. From surf-board riding, from that practiced by Seattle comes word that the Carnival King the Hawaiian women hundreds of ye.ars of the Potlatch Festival, Tyee Kopa Kona- ago to the new turns that have been in- way, will sail for Hawaii in time to be one vented by the small boy of Waikiki who of the arrivals on the 19th of February. spends more than half of his life in the With him will come a number of Totem waves or upon his surf-board. Gordon Us- Poles, sent by the Seattle Chamber of Com- borne, the sculptor, whose models of the merce, and possibly a number of American Hawaiian surf-riders at the San Francisco Indians. At any rate he will be received Exposition have made both Hawaii and the by a band of American Indians on his ar- sculptor famous, will carry out the de- rival, and a salvo of twenty-one guns. The signs of the artist Walden, so that the great matter of sending the Carnival King of the Neptune wave, which the Outrigger Club Rosarian Carnival is being taken up in that will enter in the Pan-Pacific Pageant, will city, which has offered many kinds of rose be the leading feature of the day and the decorations, which will be used by the procession. Oregonians in the float that will represent THE MID-PACIFIC 327

Pa-u riding was the first sport of the Hawaiian woman, introduced either by the early mis- sionaries or the whalers. The pa-u riders have always provided one of the main attractions in past Mid-Pacific Carnivals, and will again in 1917. their State in the Pan-Pacific Pageant. It flying festival will probably be held at the is hoped that the Portola Society of San same time as the ascent of the day f reworks Francisco will send one or more of its splen- in the form of flags of Hawaii, Japan, did Balboa floats. Pasadena has already China, Korea, Australia, Canada, the Phili- entered two magnificent floral floats for the ppines, the United States, Mexico and New Pageant in Honolulu that will represent Zealand ; and it has been suggested that Southern California, while the matter of a every child recovering a Hawaiian flag float representing San Diego is being taken should receive a reward from the Carnival. up enthusiastically by the Chamber of Com- It is the intention of the Pan-Pacific Club merce there, and each of these cities will to carry out these suggestions, as well as also be urged to send its Carnival "King." one other, connected with the fire depart- In fact, invitations are being sent to each ment. The "palace" of the Carnival Kings city about the Pacific to have its Carnival will be built far out in upper Fort Street King represented on Pan-Pacific day at the in the direction of the Liliuokalani Gar- opening of the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carnival dens, where the great luau will be held. As in Honolulu. the Carnival Kings land and the bombs are Another feature will be the kite-flying set off from the roofs of the buildings along festival for children, and as already tenta- Fort Street, it is hoped to have the fire en- tive arrangements have been made for the gines and the hook-and-ladders join in a day fireworks on Pan-Pacific Day, the kite- wild race up Fort Street to the palace ; the 328 THE MID-PACIFIC

. The hula float in the Pan-Pacific Pageant will represent the now comparatively respectful Progenitor of the modern rag-time dancing duets. In days of old the hula was a dance that narrated in motion the traditions of the Hawaiians. structure fired as the crowd approaches and ation and support. Baron Shibusawa, the the fire department give an exhibition of greatest of Japanese capitalists, has taken wall-scaling, Pompeiian ladder work, rescue the matter up and placed it before the work, and the saving of the Carnival flag Tokio Chamber of Commerce, that the at the top of the building. capital of Dai Nippon may be represented The serious work of the Pan-Padific at least by a diorama at the Hawaiian Ex- Club will not be lost sight of during the position. hilarious events of the Mid-Pacific Carni- The Philippines Commissioner to the val. During the banquet at the Armory, San Diego Exposition after visiting Hono- where more than a thousand members and lulu, has returned to Manila to urge his friends of the Pan-Pacific Movement will home government to participate in the 1919 be gathered, speeches will be made by the Exposition, with a display of scenic dio- leaders of the different nationalities inter- ramas and an exhibit of the home indus- ested in the gathering of the Pacific races tries of the Philippines. at the 1919 Exposition in Honolulu. It From Australia, the New South Wales is expected that the president of the Tourist Bureau sends assurances of co- Hands-Around-the-Pacific Movement, who operation, while Tasmania writes that the is now visiting Australia and New Zea- matter has been taken up by the Premier, land, will make his report as to the support and will be passed upon in conference. that these countries will give the Pan- From New Zealand, words of commen- Pacific 1919 Exposition. dation have been received from the acting- Already, unofficially, Australia, New commissioner to the San Francisco tEx- Zealand and many of the Pacific lands and position. He writes: islands have given assurances of co-oper- "I must congratulate your people upon de- THE MID-PACIFIC 329

In Honolulu are 20,000 Japanese, who take a keen interest in the annual Mid-Pacific' Carnival. Some of these in native costume of days of old will assist in the Pan-Pacific historical pageant of the peoples of the Great Ocean. ciding to hold an exposition in Honolulu. There Around-the-Pacific Movement, has given can be no doubt whatever that more interest assurances of his support and that of the will be taken by the countries on this side of Pan-American Union Bulletin, which will the Pacific than if held in San Diego. I will use its pages to influence the sending of do all that I can to encourage the idea here, exhibits such are are requested from the as I realize fully the great value as an ad- South American countries. vertising medium that will accrue through New The San Diego Chamber of Commerce Zealand participating." is taking up the matter of participating in the 1919 Exposition, as are other Chambers The Honorable Sir Bichlan Escott, Gov- of Commerce along the Pacific Coast. ernor of Fiji, has written that after the The Holland commissioners in both San war is over, Fiji will be pleased to receive Francisco and San Diego have given as- an official invitation to participate in the surances that they will urge upon Java that big exposition in Hawaii. While visiting she give her support to the Pan-Pacific Honolulu, he gave assurances that some of Exposition. the Fijian sportsmen would take part in Mr. F. T. A. Fricke, Victorian Com- the proposed Exposition. missioner to the San Francisco Exposition. The Honorable John Barrett, Director- has sent assurances that his State will be General of the Pan-American Union and represented, and all along the line it looks one of the vice-presidents of the Hands- as though the 1919 Pan-Pacific Exposition 330 THE MID-PACIFIC THE MID-PACIFIC 331 in Honolulu will be a much larger affair been requested to send such adornments for than at first anticipated. these floats that are representative of the That the governments themselves would industries of the different Pacific lands, contribute to the support of the Pan-Pa- that they may be used for exhibition pur- cific Exposition in Honolulu was a little poses in the Pan-Pacific Commercial Mu- more than had been hoped for by its most seum in Honolulu after the floats are dis- enthusiastic promoters, but now from mantled. around the Pacific come intimations from In every way, Pan-Pacific Day, on the official government quarters that Hawaii is 19th of February, 1917, which opens the considered the logical center where such an big Mid-Pacific Carnival in Honolulu, will exposition should be held and that all Pa- be a Hands-Around-the-Pacific affair. Then cific countries should support it, with the will begin the co-operation that will be idea that after it is over, a permanent Pan- carried forward for the two following years Pacific Exposition be established at the until the opening of the big 1919 Pan- Cross-roads of the Pacific. Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. The start has already been made in the From the ideas that are born in the establishment of a 'permanent Pan-Pacific preparation of the 1917 Mid-Pacific Carni- Commercial Museum, and from Hawaii val, will develop many of the plans that are going out requests to every part of will be carried out in the 1919-1920 Pan- the Pacific, asking that the different coun- Pacific Exposition in Honolulu. There- tries about the Great Ocean enter floats fore every land is asked to aid and every in the 1917 Pan-Pacific Pageant at the son of the Pacific is invited to give hearty Mid-Pacific Carnival. They have also co-operation and the benefit of his ideas.

A bit of real Japan. 332 THE MID-PACIFIC II bit of local color in the Solomons. (THE LOG OF THE SNARK) Cruising in Cannib.1al Waters aters Mrs. London gracefully introduces us to the "Devil" and others of his tribe.

By CHARMIAN KITTREDGE LONDON *

Monday, June 29, 1908. It has been drizzling stickily all day, and E had to keep anchor watches all we have stayed aboard, rocking gently to last night, for it was squally, our long cable. But don't think we have been idle. The word went out that we W and the bottom is rather skaty. wanted to trade stick-tobacco for curios; In case of dragging, we hoped the anchor and in no time it was easy to see that the would hold against the sides of the hole it oldest treasures of the village would soon was in. go up in tobacco smoke ; for, although no Also, it is well to keep watches here on women came out, their choicest ornaments general principles. While the natives of did—evidently seized upon by their men- this outlying island are fairly well dis- folk and brought for barter. posed, Tom Butler says that raids from Malaita are always imminent, under cover They wanted beads as well as tobacco ; of darkness and squalls, and nothing is more and, in short order, we learned that the to the taste of the Malaitan head-hunters changing styles in adornment, of which we than to "cut out" a schooner laden with had been told, is no myth. Just now the tobacco and other loot. fashion calls for a medium-sized bead—a

* Coprighted by the Author. 333 334 THE MID-PACIFIC

small-pea size—and the people have Rubiana bracelets and the turtle-shell nose- evinced a most unaccountable (to us) aver- rings. sion to certain handsome necklaces of These people are "black Papuan," but graduated turquoise-blue beads. They will not as black as the New Guinea Papuan, accept them as a gift—they'll accept any- so the books say. And in their dark- thing that way—but if we indicate an ex- skinned visages one sees, as it were, all the change, they shrug and grin, half insolently. features and combinations of all the varied All day they have clambered over the white races of Europe, as well as the side, eager, avaricious, and bringing treas- Orient. A fattish old soul, contempla- ure undreamed of in carved nose-rings of tively puffing away at a clay pipe, was the thick turtle-shell, baskets ("bastiks"), perfection of a stolid, blear-eyed German, but for his color. Another, for all the shells like flowers, garters of little white cowries on bands of finest cocoanut-senit, world a comical little Irishman, tried to palm off a very rotten calabash, and joined elongated black cannibal calabashes, show- in the insane, brief cackle of merriment ing more than the beginnings of art—in- that went up from his fellows when we deed, the scrolls and figures on the ends threw it aside. Still another was a typical are almost classic; beautiful giant "clam" Mexican—all he needed was a sombrero. shells with fluted lips, the insides like pur- One boy, on whom we kept a wary eye, est white marble polished to satin gloss, was the image of any city rowdy; but the and full of delicious meat, raw or cooked ; more we saw of him the better we liked and two actual clam-pearls, one large and him. He was merely a good "mixer." round, one acorn-shaped, the surfaces like There was a pretty, impudent American- porcelain ; bracelets from the island of faced chap, of the weak and conceited sort Rubiana, of delicate-tinted, hand-wrought that can get very nasty on occasion; and shell, finely etched in patterns (each there was every sort of Jew on earth. One bracelet must have taken months to make Moorish old chief, too dignified to barter with stone tools) ; armlets worked out of with us, went home and sent his orna- the big white clam whells, that Tom But- ments for someone else to trade. We even ler avers it takes a native a year to do. found strong resemblances to numbers of And one native, an athletic young hunter, our American friends! A thin, yellow- brougth bush-pigeons, trading them for a brown variation, with a few gray bristles delicate flowered silkaline kerchief, which on his lip, was the vegetable Chinaman of he now wears dangling from a greasy belt my childhood! against a dingy and very dirty lava-lava. Peter was much in evidence—very dandi- Jack took a fancy to buy their beads of fied and on easy terms with us. We other days and modes, and we have a heap found another Tomi than Taiohoe Tom— of rococo things, such as armlets and broad a good-looking, intelligent fellow, high girdles—the large beads wrought into fine with the chief, to whom we made pres- plaited sennit. One is all green beads, ents, and who is also, with Peter, drum- another bright blue, another red and ming up curios for us. Our private black—things beautiful enough to scheme opinion is that they are a proper pair of a gown on. villains, but too wise to get into any trou- Many a curio we bought right off its ble with so well-armed and mysterious a wearer, lending an added value in our eyes. craft as ours. I can see some early antiseptic treatment And then there's the Devil. His dia- of the article—such as one irresistible bead bolical face and body seem at variance with garter that was untied from a sore leg! an unusually mild and harmless disposition. Tehei is, even now washing, our dozens of Martin was just pouring an avalanche of THE MID-PACIFIC 335 stick-tobacco alongside Jack, sitting on the teeth, dangling coquettishly and ticklingly deck-cot, when the Devil, in a canoe, into the hollows of the organ of hearing! squinted his basilisk eyes over the teak rail. This dainty custom is pursued by both "My God!! said Martin, and froze to the sexes. They scorn not the tin keys that vision. Jack looked at the thing and said: come with canned goods, nor the wire han- "I wouldn't call him that, Martin !" dles of tin pails, nor large rusty nails. It came over the rail, and sat down on it. The weighted lobes sometimes hang nearly It wore a soft, old felt hat, that drooped to the shoulder, and some we saw torn clear limply around the face. The eyes are through, hanging in two shreds. One what I call half-moon eyes—the iris being haughty councillor of the chief struts un- high on the ball and partly covered by the approachably with a white door-knob upper lid. The thing is horribly near- bumping on his chest. Another, high in sighted, and squints its face into the most diplomatic circles, has a really handsome infernal expressions. On the top of the thing on his breast—a round, flat disk four end of its nose it wears a tiny carved sliver inches in diameter, of snowy clam shell, of bone, set in a hole, long healed, for the worked thin by untold labor and etched purpose, the sliver curling up like a little deep with symbolic figures. I am simu- rhinoceros horn. The sight of it makes lating a careless and rather contemptuous one wrinkle one's own nose with involun- attitude toward it—a feeble interest—for tary and misplaced sympathy. Jack handed it is evidently of vast value to the owner. the Devil a small iron puzzle, and he But I think that by weight of tobacco and snatched it with hooked fingers. I looked beads cleverly displayed whenever he is for a barbed tail, but found it not; and the around, the great man may talk business. feet were just as spraddly and hand-like as They do not know what to make of the those of the rest of the crowd. He sat for cameras, and are in dread that the black hours over that puzzle, did that Devil, cases will go off. But they brace up to squinting ferociously. I was obsessed to the ordeal, although with an awful tense decorate the creature, and hung the most fixity of gaze. The deck, during the trad- delicate opalescent and blue beads about his ing, was fraught with the most laughable neck. I took a picture of him, too, and un-misleading stage whispers concerning then got him to remove his funny schoolboy values of articles. It was very plain, hat. His hair was a yellow-bleached fuzz among other things, that I was a great all over the crankiest conical head ever curiosity, and my comradely relations with born! my husband a source of wondering specula- Peter wears the nose-spike, too, and also tion. I believe they considered it surpris- one of the popular nose-rings, that hangs ing that the wealthy owner of so much over the mouth and is of considerable irk tobacco should have but one wife, anyway. when eating. And in all this melee, trading, sorting, In addition to the disks of wood or clam cleansing, and packing away our clutter of shell in their strained ear lobes, the men curios, we were ever courteous, careful not have found other rich possibilities of dis- to antagonize, and unostentatiously avoided figurement. They pierce holes along the letting our visitors get behind us. edges of the ear, and in the topmost hole thrust a stick of polished white wood the Tuesday, June 30, 1008. size and length of a pencil or a sturdy sec- Another squally night, another forenoon tion of macaroni. From the other per- of trading under the awnings; and, as forations in the tormented gristle depend Jack was feeling better, we had a jolly little bunches of small beads and porpoise time. One grimy native produced a gold 336 THE MID-PACIFIC sovereign and offered it for tobacco; but boree." And, speaking of jamborees, we that sort of thing is outside our sphere as indicated in lovely beche de mer that we a pleasure yacht, for we may only exchange should appreciate a dance. By now, anx- commodities, and sell nothing. ious to please the possessors of so much Nakata went ashore to wash, where we tobacco, beads and "calico," they were will- found him in the afternoon, near the trad- ing to let the women perform for us. ;:..o er's cottage, cross-legged before a flat stone, we were led to an open space, and sat about scrubbing away, and opposite him two rude on the grass (fervently hoping there were females likewise engaged, and all getting no sore-germs in it!), and saw a strange acquainted in beche de mer English. Wada, weaving circle through the most remarkaole upon hearing of the social perquisites of and not unbeautiful gyrations. We could laundering ashore, firmly but inconspicu- only guess at the various significances of it ; ously gleaned every available washable the • stealthy, graceful, hunting-step of article on the yacht, and departed for the Peter and Tomi, the monkey movements of chaste strand forthwith. the pot-bellied brown babies, and the deli- Jack, Martin and I wandered along a cate, sensuous danse au ventre of the girls sylvan pathway under the palms to the vil- —all to the quaint humming vibrations of lage, and found it quite unlike anything the jewsharp. we have yet seen. The straggling, oblong We tendered appropriate presents to the houses have very low sides and long-eaved dancers, and then Peter and Tomi stole roofs. Doors do not reach the ground, but Jack and Martin, Henry and Tehei (who. are gained across a waist-high roofed plat- had followed along), and took them to a form resting on logs. There are no win- couple of big canoe-houses—long, gabled dows whatever, and the interiors are dark roofs supported by carven posts. The sides and smelly. Children squat and squabble are low, with equally low front walls, the. on the platforms, and shy women lurk in big end-spaces above wide open. the shadows beihnd. Tomi, whose house The nearest view I am supposed to get was rather superior, introduced us to into those sacred edifices is from the water, two wives—the first plural wives I have for no female foot is permitted, on pain of ever met! They were appropriately unnamable punishment, or death, to defile gowned for our reception, in single strings even the ground in front. At the first of tiniest colored beads on cotton thread. house I went a little nearer than was pru- We noticed many sores on both men dent, in an attempt to filch a peep in- and women—mainly on the legs, which in- side, but murmurs from my following of vite more abrasions—and Martin groaned dark heathen made me turn leisurely away in disgust and sympathy, meanwhile as if I had never thought of such a thing. spreading his shin bandages a little wider, Jack is teasing me because I am of such for there are myriads of busy flies. As the an inferior clay and sex that I cannot follow men gathered around we noticed several him. He did not see much, however—the who were minus a leg or an arm. carved king-posts with obscene figures atop "Him fella boy bite 'm fella shark," was (there is one twelve feet high at a "four the unmistakable explanation. And the corners" in the village), a handsome canoe brutes deliberately advise us that swim- or so, and a grisly package suspended from minn here is perfectly safe! the ridge-pole, said to contain evaporated The women, in general, are very like the remains of chiefs. Henry still insists: "I men in manner, after they have conquered smell something that first place." Jack their bashfulness, only they work harder. says he only imagined it. But in the sec- They are beasts of burden, carry loads, and ond canoe house (I did manage an angle•, do heavy work, while the men "do the jam- where I could get a glimpse), there was: THE MID-PACIFIC 337 ample odor of a fresher sort, for a pig, on and has killed more men that he can re- its back, was being singed, with a lot of member. And he, as well as others of his men bending over it in the smoke—horribly tribe, continually warns us against Malaita suggestive of long-pig. —Mala, they call the island. I found more curious relics today, among I washed my hands very thoroughly after them several black wooden trays, carved returning to the yacht—not because the into fish-shape. I can picture a planked hands I had, perforce, to shake were the striped bass on one of them some day, in hands of murderers and man-eaters, but be- our Wolf House, in the Valley of the cause they were such unsanitary hands! Moon. We found a comically industrious We are reading "A Naturalist Among group of artisans under the beach palms, the Head-Hunters," by G. M. Woodford, working feverishly on new imitations of the and it is like a half fairy-tale and half ogre- ancient oval calabashes we like, as well as tale. The Solomons, by the way, were so some small and laughably indecent wooden named because their early discoverers be: figures, which were being painted with nat- lieved them to be the source of King Solo- ural pigments. The workers grinned mon's wealth of gold. Mendana saw them sheepishly when we caught them manufac- first, only seventy-fiye years after Columbus turing "antiques" with which to beguile discovered America. 'Woodford tells of our tobacco. Jack contemplated them for the great beauty and variety of the flora, a while, then observed : and the insects interested him greatly. This "They're like the man who was so greedy is not surprising, when one learns that the that when he was wrecked on an uninhab- butterflies were of such proportions that to ited island it wasn't ten minutes before he secure them he had to use a shotgun of had his hands in the pockets of the naked some sort. In the '80s he sent home to savages." England many skins of birds new to sci- There is no true hospitality nor gen- ence—rare 'pigeons, parrots, and so forth ; erosity among these savages. It is an eye and lizards and rats several feet long. for an eye, a tooth for a tooth, quite lit- And as for the people—after years spent erally sometimes. An old man, at the among them, he concludes that the longer dance, asked for tobacco, got it, and later he lives the more he realizes that he pos- gave me a yellow-and-red fine ne-plated sesses only the most superficial knowledge armlet. It is the only gift we have received. of them and their customs. It is as bad a This man, Butler tells us, is an unpreceden- puzzle as Lafcadio Hearn encountered with ted old murderer, a terror in the islands, the Japanese. 38 THE MID-PACIFIC

Garoet is one of the loveliest mountain valleys in the 'world. It is thickly populated and rich in rice, bananas, and even coconuts, although 400 feet above the sea and surrounded by mountains and living volcanoes. Javanese industry: Making sarongs or one-piece skirts.

In Upland Java

FROM THE EDITOR'S DIARY. Railway travel; beautiful Garoet; the wonderful hot baths of Tjipanas.

February 12, 1914. selves, while the many third-class cars were Before daylight this morning, at Buiten- packed with tinted humanity, there being a zorg, the Malay "boy," who, by the way, is seat down each side and one in the center. an old man, awoke us at 5:15 to have our The second-class cars are just as comfort- cold breakfast and catch the early train for able as the first, and little different, except Garoet. It was only a hundred yards to that they are finished up in rattan instead the railway station, but we were sent there of leather. in style in a carriage. We were afraid One might just as well attempt to de- that we might be humiliated traveling sec- scribe eight or ten hours of motion pictures ond class, but we took the chance, as the that he has sat through as to try to tell of tickets were but seven guilders to Garoet, everything to be seen on the trip from while first class was much higher. We Buitenzorg to Garoet. First we passed need have had no alarm, for the little first- through rice fields ; then through terraced class compartment was not in use the whole rice fields; then through rice fields that way, and before the end of the journey we were terraced up to the mountain-tops. had the entire second-class coach to our- Only here and there did we see patches of

339 340 THE MID-PACIFIC sugar cane, although for miles we saw wild great high mountains. Before us were cane growing on either side of the railway hills a thousand feet in height that were embankment, indicating that rice had taken cultivated to .the very top. Down in the the place of sugar cane. I understand that broad, level valleys were areas, scores of the richest Chinaman outside of China owns miles across, of great rice fields, and in this the largest rice field in Java. Everywhere vast sea of light green here and there were we found the cocoanut tree growing luxuri- the heavy, dark patches of the cocoanut ously. I was certain that when we reached ,3 groves. That was all you saw at a dis- more than a thousand feet above sea level tance, but in each cocoanut grove was a it would cease bearing fruit, but we rose to village, and these villages were artistic in two thousand feet, and still we had the the extreme in their construction. cocoanut tree with us in groves, and top- Joe and I were very much interested as heavy with fruit. we went along discussing whether the ani- By cultivation Java has become the mals we saw everywhere were goats or "garden" perhaps of the world, but sheep. We know now that we saw a count- although we passed through what is sup- less number of goats, but we are not yet posed to be the most magnificent mountain certain whether we have seen any sheep. scenery in the island, there was nothing to We saw cows once, and water buffalo most compare in grandeur or beauty or attract- of the time—water buffalo in the fields up iveness with mountains I know of in to their necks in mud, with children per- Hawaii. Let me build a railway around ched on their backs. the Big Island of Hawaii as I wish to build At the stations men, women and children it, and there will be nothing that Java offers came with fruit, eggs, and all kinds of scenically that can surpass what could be strange-looking "eatables." Some brought seen from that railway. Save in this: the dourain, and several times we saw the In Java the houses ' of the people are dourain tree—a great tall, straight stem, built as permanent homes, and not as tem- with the fruit hanging from the upper limbs. porary camps of wooden shacks, as we have Some of the pines the natives brought were in Hawaii. Should we ever get a proprie- very fair, and we amused ourselves during tary peasantry in Hawaii (and I believe the day trying the different fruits as they the islands would support a wonderful were offered us. We got two watermelon; white peasantry), and the people should for a cent apiece—very small; in fact, that build homes instead of shacks, we might in is all they were worth, for we took one time have as beautiful a country as is Java. mouthful and threw them away. Everywhere in the up-country the bam- We changed cars two or three times, and boo grows. It grows in great clumps, and at last got on the little branch road that sends up shoots seemingly as tall a; the runs through one continuous rice field for highest cocoanut trees. I know that this an hour to Garoet, which is situated in a bamboo will grow in Hawaii, for I have great rice-field plateau, with mountains and seen it. Should we introduce it there, its volcanoes and hot springs all around it. It culture would wonderfully simplify the about 2,500 feet above the sea level, and building of homes instead of shacks in the a, I write some small native boys insist on plantation camps, and the cost would be giving a serenade. There are eight of infinitely less. As we got into the hills them, and each has a bamboo instrument the native houses took on an even more called the anklung , which gives one note. artistic appearance. Now the roofs were All around are cocoanut trees and pamelos. heavily thatched and high-peaked. The air is pleasant, and while there are As we crossed the highest range we could clouds, there is yet no rain. look down into the great valleys that spread After a little rest I started out for a out for many, many miles, surrounded by walk around Garoet. Just beyond the THE MID-PACIFIC 341

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town is a quaint little swamp where the cart road walkers' map of Garoet. I here- bamboo houses are built around what are by take off my hat to the people of Garoet evidently fish ponds. The natives seem or whoever got up the map that was given primitive and the children run away at us by the tourist bureau. It is the best the approach of a stranger. I wandered walking map I have ever heard of or can out around the ponds and down another conceive of. For twenty miles around road where I found some of the natives Garoet every little road and walk is out- beating out copper utensils, then I wan- lined. Not only that, but at every cross- dered through a little village under a road there is a black sign board with white great bamboo grove and back to the hotel letters, telling you just which direction in where I picked up Joe and we crossed the which to go, and still more valuable, there river on a bridge and wandered by the race are little disks, some with red crosses on course where all of the various grand- them, some red and white, some red balls stands are built of bamboo with thatched on white, and each with a number. In roofs, the entire center of the course being addition to this there is a number outside planted in rice. We wandered through the the circle which tells the number of the rice fields to a coconut and bamboo grove, walk that is described in the little guide and then came back to• the river to watch book. The number in the circle tells the the sunset and the people in bathing. We particular stage of the particular walk, and wandered by our hotel and down the beau- shows you where to turn off. tiful main road until we came to the pub- We started off on walk No. 1, but lic square and its Mohammedan mosque, easily branched off to walks 3 and 4, and where we went in for a moment and saw even a part of No. 5, but with the map the good Musselmen praying. Then we before us it was the simplest thing in the came back to the little hotel and had din world to follow the roads and the little ner. The rates at this pension are four trails. Should we lose our way, in less guilders or $1.60 a day. The food is fair• than a mile we would be sure to find one for the price. of our red and white disks, which would February 13, 1014. tells us at once by a glance at the map, I found this morning that the great big how to, get back to any desired point. cement bath tubs are meant solely for dip- We branched off from the road beyond ping the water from and pouring it over the race track, and by a splendid foot your body. I discovered this when I saw path across rice fields and through bam- the Javanese boy dip in and get the drinking boo groves. At every little crossing we water from the tank in which Joe and I found old women and little children squat- had been bathing. I like Joe, but I am ting down with the simplest kind of edibles going to drink bottled water while in placed on sale for passers-by. We turned Garoet. into the quite large village of Taragong, We found here a very strange species of and then walked out among the hundreds cactus. On its tender branches there are of ponds toward the swimming baths of real leaves, and one cut exudes a plentiful Tjipanas. The villages became more supply of milky sap like rubber. It is so quaint and we could see that most of the sticky that a branch of the cactus cut off houses were of thatched roof, although can be stuck on again. we saw men with poles over their shoulders I have found that there are warm baths from which hung baskets filled with tiles, not more than a few miles distant, and evidently made in the district. The lat- we are going for a hot swim. tice work of bamboo on the sides of the We walked down the road passing the houses seemed to be worked in designs race course and began to study our zvandel- of light and dark bamboo. THE MID-PACIFIC 343

Several of the fish ponds were being the morning, going down the main road drained and men, women and children until we came to one of the signs, where were wading about with baskets scooping we turned and went through a little na- up the water and gathering the fish. It tive village in the rice fields to the river. was an interesting sight. All around us There was a ferry here and a great long were mountains, some of them with cra- bamboo boat made of twenty or thirty ters sending up steam, and on Mt. Goen- bamboo poles tied together with their toer, which is about 6,000 feet high is a small ends turned up as a bow. It seemed still fresh lava flow. Neither the mountain capable of carrying quite a weight, and by nor the lava flow, however, compare with two ropes the ferryman pulled the boat our volcanoes in Hawaii, but it was a back or forth. We did not wish to wan- beautiful mountain and the little patch of der all afternoon in the rice fields, so we lava did not disfigure it much. turned back and went for another mile We reached the baths and found a num- up the main road until at last at the bend, ber of bamboo houses in which the hot we came to another of the guide signs, tanks were located. For half a gtiilder and there we took a pleasant trail through we secured a great swimming bath of hot rice fields and native villages. One native water to ourselves. The water was so clear village was on high ground above the rice that you could see the intricate designs fields, and from here it looked as though worked on the bottom of the tiled the Grand Canyon had been terraced into tank some six feet deep. The water little bits of flat basins where the green was flowing in through pipes all the time ; rice sprang up. It was beginning to rain and how we enjoyed that swim! Several and we ran down the steep road until we times we came out and went in again for came to the river, over which there had the "last swim" But at last we did dress and once been a bridge, part of which was now wandered up the side of the mountain into washed away. Two natives in great oil- a quaint village above the rice fields. We paper hats, which we envied, were in front saw a long row of bamboo houses with na- of us and they prepared to wade the river, tives evidently in different stages of leprosy. so we took off our shoes and stockings anti At least we thought it was leprosy, and I did the same. Then we clambered up the never saw anyone so eager to get somewhere steep banks and raced along the incline un- else as was Joseph. Studying our map we til we came to another little river that had returned by a different road. The path- a little bridge, then through a native vil- way through the little lakes, and under lage and then the great, broad road that the wonderful avenues of bananas and leads to Garoet. On either side were the among the native villages, and then the rice fields with their wonderful terracing, rice fields until once more we struck the and the mountains beyond. Once more we main road to Garoet. It was a walk of met the youngsters with their bamboo musi- beauty and interest, every foot of it. cal gongs, but did not wait for them to I am to leave Joe here for several days play. In the town itself we observed quite while I go on to Semarang, and I envy a large iron plate with a description in him the many walks that are outlined in Dutch and English, with various markings every direction. On our way back we to be found on the sign posts of the various got a coconut which was really quite large trails, an announcement that the map was and full of water, and we bought some to be had at any of the hotels. mountain apples identical in shape, color The walk had occupied a little over and taste with those of Hawaii. In the afternoon we started out for a two hours and was delightful in the ex- walk in the opposite direction of that of treme. 3-H- THE MID-PACIFIC

Surf-board riding was the most thrilling and entrancing of the old Hawaiian games, both to the participant and observer. Now the white man has taken up this typical Hawaiian sport. A bit of old Hawaii.

Old Hawaiian Games in Honolulu How the ancient Hawaiians amused themselves and kept their health.

BY W. D. WESTERVELT.

•:*

The Hawaiians, when Honolulu was a for the sports of his people. Here the grass village, used to tell each other of a spirits could come and find companions.. brother who went into the spirit world Here they could enjoy their favorite to visit his sister. His own spirit had games. to be separated for a time from the body These were the same games they had in which it had been living—but it was played as mortals, but now were shadow able to return to that body after its ex- or ghost-games such as no mortal could periences in ghost-land. see. and in which material hands and feet Among the many places visited was the could have no part. great field set apart by the king of ghosts The visitor found himself by the sea. 345. 346 THE MID-PACIFIC

side. He looked out over the surf (nalu) watch carefully every muscular change and on the surf waves saw many spirits in his arm in order to detect if possible with their semblance of surf-boards the place where he would hide the stone. sporting in the surf—full of the joy of This game was called puhenehene. The surf-riding at heavenly Waikiki. This hidden stone was called the noa and the was the same sport as the hee-nalu or act of slipping the stone into its hiding riding the surf the spirits had known place was noa-pahee. This was a most while living in their bodies by the sea. popular game among the living Hawaii- There was a long, smooth place along ans, and was accompanied by unlimited the beach called Kahua-maika or "the betting by the people in the rows opposed place for rolling stone discs." Here to each other. It is not strange that the ghostly stones were rolled and bets were residents of ghost-land carried the sport made as to the distance a gamester could with them to enliven the underworld. At- roll his stone or whether he could strike tention might well be called to the name a stick or roll between two or more given to the sand hills in this game. Pue- sticks set up near the end of the course. pue-one means "the round bunches of Not far away a group of spirits gather- sand." Those who were to guess where ed around those who took part in the the stone was hid waited until the hand game uma-uma or "boxing." Here one had been thrust in all the piles, then they man would take a firm position and let tore to pieces the sand in which they another try to knock him over. Uma- thought the stone could be found. uma means "the heart." The boxers The kilu was a game in which polished stood face to face, sometimes both strik- coconut shells or gourds were used. This ing and sometimes striking turn and turn also was a most popular game and was about. mentioned again and again in the ancient At another place was ku-la-ku-lai or chants and legends. It was attended with "wrestling." Here the ghosts were leap- extravagant gambling. The hard, well- ing at each other, scuffling and trying all smoothed floor of a house was most loved kinds of catches and holds to throw each for this game. Sometimes a special floor other to the ground. Closely connected was prepared, shaded by a thatched roof. with this was the lua or "back breaking," In the center of the floor was a part to an art taught carefully in the boxing which the coconut shells must be sent curl- schools. ing and twisting over the floor. The player Another group played the loulou or who could cause his shell to perform the pulling crooked fingers hooked in the most intricate motions and still strike the fingers of the opponent. Associated with post was always the winner of the game, the /ou/ou was the honu-honu, or pulling and on the property wagered. The act of with hands and the hukihuki or tug of spinning the cup was called oniu, which war. means twisting or spinning. Another group of ghosts was seated Konane was a game played on a large in rows. Before some of these rows smooth surfaced stone. Over the face of were little humps of sand. Before others this stone was an irregular number of rows were piles of the native kapa cloth. One of small holes. The contestants played of the ghosts on one side would hold a with small black and white stones. The small ghostly stone concealed in his first foreigners in the islands called the hand. He would pass along thrusting game "Hawaiian checkers," because it was his hand into the sand heaps, or under somewhat like "checkers," but it was more the kapa piles. His adversaries would like the Japanese game called "Go." It THE MID-PACIFIC 347 was not played by moving the stones from The word was used when using stilts or place to place, but rather one stone after racing with them. another was placed on the board — each Hei was a very ancient game similar to player chanting some charm or incantation "cat's cradle," and was used to symbolize as he put down his stone. Frequently in house building and other arts. the legends one player was supposed to Po-hee was the name of a contest or have the aid of some ancestor god in con- game in which darts or spears were made to fusing the thoughts and plans of his an- skip along the ground or over the grass. tagonist. This of course was partly true Children used sugar cane stalks and reeds of all the games connected with gambling. as their darts. Somewhat similar to this Lele was the game of leaping down was the more dangerous spear-throwing in precipices, or diving in deep waters. Ku- which Kamehameha was so notably pro- lou-poo was diving with the head down. ficient. Kowali was a swing made by using long The holua was the game of racing down vines. This was a game mentioned several steep grassy hill sides, riding on long nar- times in legends referring to adventures in row sleds. Various adjectives were used the Hawaiian underworld. describing different forms of this sport. Of course the hula or dance was univer- Pana-iole was the sport found in hunting sal, appearing in a multitude of forms and rats with bows and arrows. The arrows for many purposes, almost always having were frequently pointed with human bones some vulgar thought associated with it. taken from the bodies of enemies and used The use of the maa or sling stone be- to bring disgrace and shame upon the spirit longed to battle and yet was taught as an of the dead person. art or contest in the schools for warriors. Kini-popo was a game in which a round The ghosts took all these games and ball was used. It covered all kinds of ball sports as well as their ordinary occupation playing. into the spirit world when they left their Kukulaeo was a bird with long legs. abode with men.

The game of precipice-leaping. 348 THE MID-PACIFIC

❖ •:•

• O The Spirit of Kyoto.

Kyoto, the Heart of Japan The one city where "old Japan" still flourishes.

By FRANK DEARDOFF

T WAS late in the afternoon of a day I had the feeling of simply being in a in July that I saw it first—Kyoto, strange and foreign land; in Tokyo of be- .1 the City of My Dreams. I had ing in a great human museum; in Kyoto I been in Japan a few weeks, but this was at once felt at home. At that time there my first experience in an interior city. I was no choice in hotel—the Ya-ami being have always felt glad that it came the only one for foreigners. This is situ- in Kyoto—the heart of Japan—the one ated on a moutnain slope on the farthest place where the twilight of Old Japan still side of the city from the station. By jin- lingers. The memories of many subse- riksha I was taken through the narrow and quent visits are somewhat confused, but thickly populated streets. The intense those of .that first summer there, especially heat of the day had not yet subsided, but those of the first afternoon and evening, are the generous sprinkling of the streets with distinct and fadeless on the tablets of mem- water had a cooling effect, and the people, ory. They are as easily recalled as the old and young, were already preparing for memories of yesterday; and these are a few the festivities and gay street life of the com- of those first impressions. At Yokohama ing evening. In the wide streets—set aside

349 350 THE _MLEt-PACIFIC for traffic—I took note of long trains of the world receives at sunset," in this quaint sacred bullocks, drawing with slow and, old city; and there are no louder and stubborn tread their heavily - burdened harsher noises than those from temple carts; of the odd scenes along the canals bells—a sound I had long waited to hear and rivers, and of the boats towed by the under favorable circumstances. . . . muscular boatmen. I was fascinated by their strangely chanted songs. Everything Then broke upon the blessed calm had an Oriental charm and novelty ; and, Those melodies of even ; at that time, realized for me my ideal of Sweet temple bells, like holy psalm Oriental scenes. It was the realization of Across the fields of heaven. things of which I long had dreamed. From some far-off temple bell a wave of The Ya-ami Hotel is pleasantly situated sweet sound floated out and off across the Maruyama Park, a district almost given valley, then rolled up the mountain side up to tea houses, and as a resort for holi- like a holy benediction. It came suddenly day seekers. When I registered—out of —a great unearthly boom—then a sonorous curiosity, or thinking to find some familiar anthem of rich metallic sound filled the air name—I looked over the back pages of the with its full-toned vibrations, and rippling hotel book. It was something of a sur- on—and on—one waited breathlessly for prise to find the name of Maximilian Tau- the enchanting sound to decline. Still the bles, a name that will not likely be familiar wave of melody freighted the air, but now to any one who by chance may see it here. it seemed to travel onward—far, far away Yet he was a very able writer and art —till fainter, yet fainter, came the sweet- critic, at that time on a world-journey in ness of its call, at last to expire as in a the interest of Harper Brothers. While long-drawn sigh. in Japan selecting material for a publica- That evening I went down into the city tion, he had also selected and forwarded very early. The heat of the day had been to me a very exquisite collection of art oppressive, the streets had been deserted, objects of all kinds. It added very greatly business had been suspended; but with the to my growing interest in things Japanese, cool of the evening the streets were filled and it is not without reason that the old to overflowing with the pleasure-loving and faded invoice is still found among my population. The principal streets were most cherished relics. decked as in holiday attire; the shops were From the hotel on the mountain side, well lighted, displayed handsome goods of under the mellowing radiance of a de- all kinds, and there were many eager buy- scending sun, I had a fine panoramic view ers. Booths, bazaars and flower stands of the historic old city. Mountains run occupied much space on some of the streets, well around the city, giving it the appear- and a dense mass of people, in ceaseless ance of a great dish, with undulating change and motion, streamed through the ridges for the rim, which at that moment center of the thoroughfares. There were was being penciled as with fire-gilt lines by cheerful salutations by passing friends, gig- the golden rays of the setting sun and mak- gle and laughter among the younger ones, ing it stand out well against a background mingled with the "Hai, hai," of the jin- of blue. The shadows of the mountains riksha runners, warning those in the way began to lengthen, soon reached across the to avoid being run down as they hurried town, when a luminous mist, like fiery along with their loads of gaily attired smoke, hung over the lines that marked the geisha, or of actors hurrying to some thea- streets. The day had closed. "With soft ter. There was the greatest courtesy and and silent lapse comes down, the glory that politeness shown by every class. I wan- THE MID-PACIFIC 351 dered aimlessly until I found myself in In that part of the street where the more Theater Street, the most fascinating of all. legitimate theatres were situated the crowd It is a small street running from banjo to became very dense, making progress very Shijo, set apart for theaters and shows of slow. There the bright harmony of colors all kinds, small shops, booths and bazaars of the holiday-attired people appeared most and huckster stalls. Even at that time the picturesque. The rich kimonas of pretty Zone of our Exposition had its rivals in the women, and the ample silken robes of the manner of getting audiences. The bands dark-clad men contrasted with the indigo of music after Western fashion (save the blue cotton clothing of the humble people, mark!) were the decidedly discordant notes who were also distinguished by having in those surroundings. Near the entrance strips of toweling twined about their heads. of one show there stood a couple of street Great, flaring, gaudily painted posters, oc- musicians, one with a samisen strung to her cupying the entire fronts of some of the side, while the other beat time on a primi- larger buildings, indicated the homes of the tive kind of drum, both singing a peculiar legitimate drama. One of these was packed kind of chant, ending in a very mournful to overflowing with as patient an audience minor, which seemed to exercise a peculiar as any manager could wish. The perform- influence on the imagination of the listen- ance was a disappointment ; the "waits" ers. Then there was the bubble-blower, suggested a first night ; the mechanical ap- the top-spinner, the fire-eater, the sword- pliances failed to work, and the atmosphere devourer, and the man who fed compla- of the house was extremely heavy, yet the cently on live, healthy rabbits, changing his good humor of the audience was simply in- diet now and then by dining on live exhaustible. They had come to be pleased, pigeons, feathers and all! Then there was and the smile of satisfaction never relaxed a more frugal fellow, who after sticking his from their countenances until the show was skin full of pins, withdrew them, then con- over. scientiously swallowed every one of them, In the midst of these surroudings was an gorging himself to his heart's content at the old Buddhist temple, the interior bathed in expense of the curious crowd. His "im- dim light, with a crowd of worshippers provisatore" gathered in the nimble pennies around the shrines, while devotees filled the plentifully. It went down among my First naives. Clapping of hands, tapp6g of Impressions that I thought he earned the sweet-toned bells, rubbing of rosary beads money—"if things are what they seem to and the murmuring of prayers were con- be." stantly heard. Little gossamer clouds of The small shops had a most variegated smoke from fragrant incense arose from the display of all kinds of things---sandals of acient bronze burners—hovering, envelop- all sorts and degrees of costliness, fabrics ing, then dissolving mystically amid the and kimonas of all patterns and colors, altar decorations that gleamed in the un- much unique jewelry, and a most startling certain light. The 'proportions of the old display of curiously fashioned hair orna- architecture seemed to expand in the dim ments, betokening by their abundance the atmosphere, and the robe of the priest, the favor in which they are held by the fair brocaded hangings, the gilded implements, ones of Japan. To tempt the children there the great lanterns, all appeared intensified were booths with all kinds of sweetmeats in in richness. It was the very first time I great piles, alternating with pyramids of had ever stood within a Buddhist temple. cookies and gaudy confections. The lem- The sensation, the feeling, might not have onade seller was doing a thriving trade : }seen so different at that time—such is also the man with the more or less mystical youthful emotion and enthusiasm—had I sign, "Iso-krim." found myself suddenly transported back 352 THE MID-PACIFIC into the past, ever so many thousands of He had remembered and was thanking me years, into the days of Isis and Osiris, and for a purchase of a few cents made from left enchanted in some glorious temple on him two years previously. Politeness was the Nile. All was shrouded with deep im- an asset of his stock in trade. pressiveness. The humming prayer, the As I returned to the hotel through Sanjo, droning chant, the hollow echo of the tem- the shops were closing, the people were ple drum—all mingled with the silvery taking their way homeward, the streets tones of the temple bell—thrilled and trem- quickly becoming deserted. Only along bled through the vaulted arches of the sa- the rivers—those crystal, limpid rivers, in cred edifice. The chanting of the priest which the city so well takes pride—where was not intelligible to me, yet I fancied the the pleasure seekers had gathered, were the burden of his blessing, to both the living scenes still gay. From every little tea- and the dead, might be a prayer: May the house on the mountain-side the soft music Great Buddha surround thee with golden of the samisen and the flageolet floated out peace; may thy nostrils be soothed with the on the evening air, as it has for a thou- world-old fragrance of sandalwood and sand years. myrrh; thy ears be greeted forever with the That evening I sat late upon the hotel tinkling of silver bells. . . . veranda. The gray old city in the valley From Theater Street I went into Tera- below—so recently stirring with life—had machi, a very long street, its entire length become very quiet in the purpling gloom of having shops making a specialty of furnish- midnight. Not a whisper was in the air; ings for temples. This street, near one of the pine trees grouped on the mountain the large temples. This street, near one of were motionless—silent; a small garden the street dealers, where men having very lake below lay dead under the blue of the small shops in the suburbs, or no shops sky—darkling in the shadows of the trees. whatever, bring their scant stock of curios, After a long interval—while only the light or things of their own make, and display of the stars pulsed through the ether—the them nightly in the street under flickering pale, delicate light of a moon-dawn began lights. At the time of which I speak very to outline the ridges of the distant moun- rare objects might be obtained from these tains, making the peaks here and there humble dealers ; but as a rule their stocks stand out like waiting sentinels. A little were very poor, many not amounting to arc of brilliance curved upward, then in a more than a dollar or so in value. These few moments a full moon—a quivering humble dealers would sit patiently for shield of molten silver—lifted, seemed to hours without making a single sale of even tiptoe for a space on the horizon, then a few pennies; yet anything of value, of any mounted upward, bathing the valley and interest whatever, would find ready pur- the sleeping city with its pallid beams. A chasers. In the trading, instead of the night bird gave a sullen plunge from out a proverbial two, often twenty or more from tree near by ; an old owl hooted to its mate ; the passersby would gladly lend assistance a couple of night hawks answered each in making the bargain. During many visits other sharply; in some far distant moun- to Japan I have recognized, and been rec- tain forest retreat, a whippoorwill whis- ognized by, some of these itinerant deal- tled a few times its final, melancholy bars; ers—even after the lapse of years; es- and there came—as from a very great dis- pecially by those with whom I had ever tance. quaveringly—the long, agoniz;ne, spent a little money. Once I had the sur- wolf-like ululation of a famishing dog. prise of hearing from one of them as I Then—silence. approached his place of business, after an Many are the places where one has but interval of two years: "Sendatte arigato." to watch through a twilight, through an THE MID-PACIFIC 353 evening, through a midnight, to have the becomes unreality; the passing dream alone recollection tinge the broad day ever after is our portion. It passes; finally we with with enchantment. Such an experience it. The essence alone remains—which, may come in the star-lit desert; in the si- without beginning, flows unending—inde- lences of overwhelming mountain masses; pendent of Place and Time. in the weird, icy regions of the north; in Where the sense of Time is not—there the splendors of a tropical sunset; in the the essence of dreams will be. In a very glory of a sunrise from the summit of different spirit, Kyoto has that "Timele:s- Fuji—in a city where Spirit has mocked the ness" attributed to Rome—The Eternal hand of Time. Such are the things that City. * * * Not being an element in assist the mind to unshackle from the delu- dreams, Time ceased, long ago, to enter sion of the senses—that leave the soul on a into the dream-life of Kyoto—the place Circean Island of Infinity—more real than which saw the beginning, the continuation, the atomic globe that we see and feel. All and ever remains—the City of My Dreams.

The jinrieksha is everywhere. 354 THE MID-PACIFIC Why the flustralian despises "luxury"; he prefers the' grass for his sheep.

The Evolution of "Bunny" in Australia

By E. S. SORENSON The "pest of pests" in Australia has solved a grave problem for the Government. •

N early times, when his ancestors two to Lieutenant-Governor Ross. More were colonizing the country, Bunny were brought from Capetown in 1791 by I was a very important asset. He King in the Gorgon. The annual increase came out with the first fleet, and with was a sign of the people's progress, and careful nursing by the Government of the happiest man on the river was the the day established himself on the Par- one who had most rabbits on his estate. ramatta. He was included in stock re- For at least three-quarters of a century turns every year, each grazier being re- it was an offense to interfere with a quired to state, among other livestock. grazier's rabbits. Bunny does not ap- how many rabbits he possessed. An in- pear to have adapted himself to the ventory taken at Port Jackson on May changed conditions as readily as the fox. 1, 1788, included five rabbits, three of for importations were still found to be which belonged to Governor Phillip and necessary as late as at the end of the

355 356 THE MID-PACIFIC period mentioned, when it was recorded expended on netting fences. Still Bunny in the Leeds "Intelligencer" that four frolicked and spread. He was an abom• hares and 26 rabbits from England were 'nation, a nightmare, a national calamity. successfully landed in Victoria for Mr. Then came another change. He was Thomas Austin of Barwon Park. For a found to be a marketable product, and, long while it was feared that the the export trade soon becoming brisk, creatures wouldn't take to Australia. It wages were discontinued—except in far- was only by persistency and unremitting western parts, as trappers could make care that the old pioneers succeeded in good incomes by selling what they establishing warrens in their paddocks. caught. A further stage in the evolution In August, 1858, a case was tried in of Bunny was begun at Mount Gambier the Court of Bequests of Parramatta, in in 1904, a squatter there letting the right which plaintiff claimed damages for the to kill rabbits on his property to a trap- destruction of 50 rabbits by two dogs per for $250, and this enterprising per- belonging to defendant. His warren was son threatened to prosecute anyone tres- situated near Ryde, and was partly en- passing on his preserves, which was al- dosed by a high fence and partly by a most a reversion to the position in 1858. stone wall. The dogs had got over the Bunny may yet come to be looked upon wall at night. A verdict was entered for as one of the country's "great natural plaintiff, damages $250, $5 for each rab-. resources," and graziers will be demand- bit destroyed. Bunny is never likely to ing a royalty on every hundred trapped see that price again in Australia, though and killed. After the big drought of there have been some..remarkable vicisc;- 1902 rabbits were the only stock left on tudes in his history. At the Bombala many of the small runs, and several of show in 1878 a prize was given for the the more stout-hearted owners made the best hutch of rabbits. Up to about 1880 best use of the asset by throwing off their Bunny was kept as a pet by farmers and coats and joining the ranks of the trap- pastoralists. Then of a sudden he be- pers, and re-stocked their runs with came anathema. He had become estab- sheep as funds became available. In lished beyond redemption, and was a parts of Victoria and New South Wales tapidly-advancing plague. Anyone found trappers now pay the landowner for the harboring him was heavily fined, and be- right of trapping on his estate. In fact, fore another quarter of a century had there is competition among the trappers passed squatters and settlers were be- for good grounds—which is an encour- ing prosecuted for not pursuing and kill- agement to the owner to allow the pest ing the pest continually. Despite a cease- to increase. The more plentiful and the less war, despite a big export trade and more thickly-populated the warrens are, fur market, he was a lucky grazier the more the trapper is prepared to pay whose inventory did not include five bil- for the right of trapping there. His lion rabbits. He would have been glad hauls are heavy, while the labor is com- if somebody's dog had got over the fence paratively light. When the colonies are and destroyed the lot. Bunny, in fact. small and scattered he has to tramp over advanced rapidly to the distinction of miles of country, humping traps and set- being Australia's greatest and costliest ting them ; round and round again killing pest ; he ascended to the high pinnacle the trapped animals, resetting and shift- of an overwhelming disaster. Every ing the traps. So a thickly-infested area method that could be thought of was becomes again a valuable asset. tried to get rid of him ; thousands of Since his occupation of Australia Bun- men were permanently employed to keep ny has changed considerably in appear- down the numbers, and fortunes were ance and is still in process of develop- THE MID-PACIFIC 357 ment. His English ancestor was a short, pocket money they can earn, and they plump animal, boldly marked with dark spend all their spare time hunting and brown and white. That marking is rare• trapping for the same reason. It is an ly, if ever, seen now by the trappers. The occupation that the average boy revels in, Australian rabbit is gray, something like especially so when he is armed with a the kangaroo, long and spare of body, pea-rifle and has the assistance of a dog; bigger and more fleet-footed than the but there is a certain amount of brutality English. His evolution in the new land about the business that in time makes is as remarkable as his fall from grace. him callous. The trapper does not relish Still, he is recovering some of his lost rabbit as a food ; indeed, most people in respect. The deniand for trapping fees the infested districts, particularly where is indicative of a time when the settler poisoning is carried on, have a strong will consider it an advantage to have a antipathy to such diet. The majority in warren in his paddock. Close settlement the cities won't touch it, either ; the places the most fatal restriction on bun- women say it is too much like a cat, and ny, and as settlement spreads over the the name kitten for young bunny has a country, with its accompanying canning bad savor about it. But a lot of people factories and felt-hat factories, so his eat rabbit without knowing it. In cheap numbers will run down and his price run boarding-houses, hotels and restaurants up. is is a common substitute for poultry. It was the rabbit industry that silenced Chicken broth, chicken pie, curried the city unemployed—that section that chicken, stewed fowl and kindred dishes was nearly always unemployed and loud- are made with rabbit, any bones that ly crying for Government help. When might reveal the imposture being dis- nothing else was available there was creetly removed. The humor of it is that good money to be made by trapping. most of those who love chicken but de- They were offered traps, and a pass on test rabbit don't know that they are be- the railways to bunny's haunts. Any man ing imposed upon. To such places of who was willing to earn an honest liv- public resort the rabbit is a great help ; ing could not refuse that and still ask it increases the profits of the establish- for assistance. So from that moment the ments by lessening the poultry bill. unemployed problem was solved. There The most common method of destruc- is one feature of the trapping industry tion is by phosphorus baits. They are that is objectionable. A lot is heard either thrown broadcast over the land or about child slavery on dairy farms, but trailed from a cart. Either method does less is known of the children in the trap- more harm than good. Besides destroy- ping areas. That field of labor is young- ing many of the most useful of the er. In country schools the mischief is feathered tribe, the phosphorus bait is a felt most, half the boys—and many of common cause of destructive bush fires, the girls—in favorable seasons being and it is washed into creeks and rivers. away rabbiting. If they are not absent from which settlers draw water for they are dull and listless through work- one or more poisoners. It is not a job ing early and late with traps; pursuing that attracts a rush of applicants. It is the nimble animal when they should be easy, but it is unhealthy. Only a very sleeping. Their earnings are consider- careful man can keep at it long. By the able, and, though tempting to many par- majority of station hands the billet of ents, the latter are not always to blame. poisoner is considered the "dead finish" Children play truant for the sake of the —and it has finished more than one. 358 THE MID-PACIFIC

•:* • 4 native of the old school. The Power of the Kahuna

By J. S. EMERSON. How the Hawaiian "Medicine Man" played, often with fatal results, upon the superstitious fear of the ancient Hawaiians.

HE ancient Hawaiians were a very ence on a people so long subject to its religious people. Almost every im- deadly power. T portant undertaking was accompa- I cannot do better than to begin with nied by prayer. These prayers were ad- a prayer which enumerates some eleven dressed to a great number and diversity different methods of causing death by "ka- of gods and covered a wide range of sub- hunaism." This prayer is addressed to jects. It is impossible to give here more Nuu, a god whose dwelling place is the than a few of the many prayers in my projecting and inaccessible ledges on the possession. I shall therefore confine my precipitous mountain sides. It is a prayer attention chiefly to those relating to one for protection against the machinations of particular branch of the subject, namely, any one seeking the death or serious in- seeking to cause the death of a person or jury of a person by any of the various asking protection against such a practice methods employed in the black art. The by others. The kahuna, or "witch-doc- prayer appeals to Nuu on the ground of tor," has been a tremendous power in this his ubiquity. Whatever such plottings land. Praying to death has long been may be and wherever carried on, "Go recognized as a potent agent in swelling thou thither and deliver us," is the bur- the mortality list in the past, and has not den of this litany. yet ceased to act with its blighting influ- For the clearer understanding of what

359 360 T H E MID-PACIFIC

follows it seems best to explain the terms Ka Po'i Uhane.—Spirit catching; the used in designating the eleven forms of art of catching one of the two spirits of the black art referred to in this prayer: a person and shutting it up in a drinking Ke Anaana,—The general name of any gourd for ransom, or, more generally, to prayer to cause the death of a person by be crushed in the fist of the kahuna and sorcery. eaten at once by him and his client. This Ka Pule Kuni.—The prayer with burn- is usually done in the early part of the ing, so called because it is offered in con- night, when sleep releases one of the two nection with the burning of certain arti- spirits of every individual and it begins cles in a fire. to wander at large in dreamland. With Ka Hoopi 'Opio.—A more simple form the death of this spirit the death of the of the black art, practiced only on a sandy other, as well as the body of the victim, beach by the seashore. A rude diagram, may be looked for not long after. Ke Kauoha. suggesting that used in the game of hop- —The command. A person scotch, is marked out on the sand. In fearing that some particular thing is liable to injury or theft, utters a prayer some- the upper section is arranged a little pile what as follows: "0 ye sun and moon, of small pebbles, in which is placed a O ye stars of heaven, 0 ye winds of the stone, tied to one end of a pohuehue or gods, and thou, 0 Ui, guard ye this ar- ipomea vine, readily obtained from the ticle. If any one disturbs it, bite his vicinity. The person officiating in the hand." This prayer is the kauoha, o: ceremony takes the other end of the vine command, given to the powers who, in in his hand, hops through the successive the old Hawaiian system, were regarded sections of the diagram and wades into as constituting a sort of petty police force the sea, still holding on to the vine. As to watch for and spy upon any who might soon as the sea reaches the middle of his make too free with little things belonging body he repeats the formula, "Aole, aole to another. i pau ku'u loa." ( My stature is not yet Ka Oni.—The writhing; a form of entirely submerged.) This he continues anaana, in which the kahuna makes his to repeat until the water covers his head body writhe like an eel and thus starts and chokes his voice. This is supposed to an influence which causes his victim to symbolize the approaching death of the writhe in pain. victim. Na Kaha Pe'a.—The crossed lines; a Ka Lawe Maunu.—The maunu, or ar- form of anaana in which the kahuna ticle taken from the intended victim to be marks two lines crossing each other on used in the incantations to cause his death, the ground, utters a prayer and runs must be burned in a fire of akia for three away. The person who steps on these nights in succession. On the last of these lines will have a sprained ankle, a sore nights, which should be that of Kaloa- or some other serious trouble with his pau, the twenty-sixth night of the lunar foot or leg. month, the ashes are carried to the sea Ka Houpuupu.—Giving false alarms so and thrown in. This ceremony is called as to secure a person's death. To do this "ka lawe maunu"— the carrying of the the kahuna, on meeting an acquaintance, maunu. The death of the victim is ex- enters into conversation with him, in the pected to follow in from two to four midst of which he suddenly breaks out days. with the exclamation, "Auwe! o (mea) Ka Hoounauna.—The sending of a mes- kela." (Hullo! here is giving the senger of death into a person. name of the victim.) With systematic Ka Apo-Leo.—Voice catching; the art planning he continues this sort of work of catching and destroying the voice of a with many whom he meets. In due time person. it is reported by one after another to the THE MID-PACIFIC 361 victim that he was seen at these various breath before the completion of the prayer, places. At first he declares that he was or should the silence about him be broken not there to be seen by the kahuna, but by any other human voice or sound pro- at length the suspicion that it must have duced by an animal, the prayer would be been his wrath that really did thus appear declared a failure, and it might go hard grows to be a terrifying conviction on his with the person or thing that caused the part which leads to serious illness if not interruption. The concluding words, actual death. He asks protection with "Amama, na noa, lele wale aku la," may the following prayer : be thus paraphrased : "The solemn hush is over. We are now freed from the awful "To thee, 0 Nuu, 0 Nuu, be strong. restraint of enforced silence. The prayer, Downward, 0 Nuu; like a well-directed arrow, takes it flight Upward, 0 Nuu ; straight for the bullseye." To the region of the floating clouds, 0 Nuu ; Hamoea is the principal goddess of those To the solid ground, 0 Nuu ; who practice the art of masage. To the steep sides of precipices, 0 Nuu ; duty, like that of a physician, was to help To all places whither the words of curs- those who were ill to recover their health, ing have been carried, not to destroy life. She is supposed to The anaana, thither go thou, 0 Nuu, to have presided over those who attended the deliver us. victim in his last hours, and thus to be To the prayer with burning, thither go able to give definite information about the thou, 0 Nuu ; nature of his malady and the cause of his To the black art of the seashore, thither death. After all the other gods concerned go thou, 0 Nuu ; have given their verdict of the guilt of To the carrying of the maunu, thither go the offending kahuna, her approval of the thou, 0 Nuu ; death sentence seems to be considered as a To the sending forth of a messenger of fitting close to the prayer. death, thither go thou, 0 Nuu ; Lono is one of the four principal god; To voice-snatching, thither go thou, 0 of the Hawaiian pantheon. Only on the Nuu; twenty-eighth night of the lunar month. To spirit-grabbing, thither go thou, 0 called in his honor Lono, is he app: Nuu; to in prayer by the kahuna kuni. Nc To the command to spy and bite, thither wonder, then, that he had failed to notice go thou, 0 Nuu; what deeds of darkness had taken place on To the writhing incantation, thither go some other night of the month. thou, 0 Nuu ; The various forces and features of na- ture are called upon for their testimony; To the magic crosses, thither go thou, 0 Nuu; such as the thunder, the earthquake, the rain, the winds, the surf, the heavens, the To the false alarms inspiring fear, thither earth, the mountains and the ocean. These go thou, 0 Nuu, to deliver us; are all, as it were, deified and considered Till the first fleeing culprit is destroyed as allies of Pele. The language of this by thee, 0 Nuu. prayer is highly figurative and archaic. Finished—the tabu. Finished—it is free. Things are hinted at with great brevity The tabu is lifted, removed. of words, so that a literal translation The attitude of a kahuna anaana in would in many cases convey nb meaning. prayer is on his hands and knees with There is one curious expression that may his face near the ground. The prayer well receive attention, namely: "Muka must be delivered in one uninterrupted ha, a pa, a pa ka lani e" (snap then your breath. Should the kahuna stop to take jaws until the sound reaches the heavens). 362 THE MID-PACIFIC

The expression muka is applied to the act The garment of the guilty kahuna will of tightly compressing the lips between become his coffin. the front teeth and suddenly opening the With the testimony of eye-witnesses, jaws so as to let the air forcibly rush into The death sentence will not be delayed. the mouth. This is an appeal to a power Ye winds in your wide circuit, above. If the heavens hear the call and And you, ye rains, present your testimony. return an approving answer, then the Ye magical sands of Mahinahina, death of the guilty one is assured. The In close sympathy with those of Heihei ; answer returned to this appeal was the O Pele, maker of the earth, vivid lightning flash illuminating the And this thy earth, 0 Pele, heavens. Nursed by the heavens, The object of this prayer is to destroy Snap your jaws until the sound reaches the evil-doer, the rival kahuna, who by the heavens. his black art has caused the death of a Ye rains, ye fruits, the gift of Holani, well-known person, by whom no offense Stand as Holani. has been committed. "Slain by a god," O ye heavens, Hamoea now gives her tes- the prayer says, yet the punishment falls timony. on the kahuna. The god had no option The heavens are ablaze with their ver- in the matter. He had to obey the com- dict; mand of the kahuna. Follows the prayer, The thunder shall be his coffin. which is made with fire: The earth gives its verdict; An earthquake shall be his coffin. O Ku The mountains give their verdict; Unproven is the guilt of him who died, The mountain ridges shall be his coffin. Slain by a god ; The ocean gives its verdict; Yea, verily, slain by a god. The raging surf shall be his coffin. He has built his house; Stand as Holani. The thunder has rolled ; O ye heavens, The earth has quaked ; Hamoea approves the death sentence. Their testimony to his innocence has reached to heaven. HE PULE HOOUNAUNA. O thou rain, gift of Ku; (21 Prayer to Send a Messenger of And thou, Holani, god of agriculture; Death into a Person.) O ye heavens, And thou, Hamoea, goddess of the mas- 0 Lono, sage, Listen to my voice. Ye all are his witnesses. This is the plan : The heavens have declared for him. Rush upon and enter; If during thy night, 0 Lono, Enter and curl up ; Thou didst fail to see, Curl up and straighten out. Surely then it was on some common night, The petition is offered, etc. not thine, that this deed was done. O Ku, Holani, ye heavens, and thou, Ha- As an instance of the carrying out of moea, such a prayer I will briefly tell the story The evidence is now clear as the dawn- of the Hawaiian who for many years sup- ing light. plied the Volcano House with sweet pota- toes, raised at his home in Kau. When As I present the case a young man he incurred the enmity of The evidence will flash from your eyes. another native, who hired a kahuna hoo- When Ku gives testimony unauna in Hilo to cause his death. This 363 THE MID-PACIFIC kahuna accordingly sent his messenger into careful nursing and the application of na- the body of a shark and thus attacked his tive medicinal herbs he recovered from his victim while fishing in the sea. The poor wounds and had two good stumps of fellow fought the shark with blows of his arms and a brave heart left him to fight fists aimed at the shark's eyes. One hand life's battles. He married the true-hearted was bitten off in the unequal conflict, and girl whom he had loved and became the then the other. Still the struggle was father of a large family, which he sup- kept up by the man, who continued to ported by his own industry and hard kick the shark in the eyes with his foot. work. As he told me the story he laid All this time he had slowly retreated to- the blame not so much on the shark as on wards the shore. In a fainting, uncon- the kahuna who sent his messenger into scious state, he was finally picked up by the shark and compelled him to do the his friends at the shore, through whose cruel work.

Idols surrounding a heiau. 364 THE MID-PACIFIC 3 11l aori Warrior.

Advice to Maori Warriors From a leader of the Maoris to his people.

BY TUTA NIHONIHO.

(Editor's Note: Captain Nihoniho was an officer of the Native Contingent, a force of bush- fighters who rendered so much aid to the Government during the war on the East Coast of New Zealand that he was presented with a sword of honor by Queen Fictoria. His advice with regard to omens is plentifully sprinkled with sensible, practical advice as to actual fighting, attacks, retreats, etc.)

HIS chronicle is intended for the paths of war. Therefore, 0 ye Maori perusal and guidance of Native youths, should you take part in the wars of T Youths in the future, for the time the future, be careful lest ye forget your may come when they will be trained in the ancestor Uenuku (the rainbow god of

365 366 THE MID-PACIFIC war), the god of your forefathers, by field of battle. If the two sides are about whose help they crossed the great ocean of equal for the coming fray, and the hiko Kiwa. lights upon the field, examine it clearly. If Ere you go forth to fight, display your the lightning is in the region of your limbs to your women, young folk, and old enemy, or on the great ranges in his vicin- men in what is termed a war-dance. When ity, and the source from which it emanated your women are seen by you advancing is on the right hand, then you know that with distorted faces by the side of your col- you yourself sent that lightning as a sym- umn, you know that your legs will assail pathetic greeting for the high-caste blood; the stars in the heavens and the earth your enemies will soon fall beneath the mother below. But should you commit shining sun. errors and not deport yourself correctly, But if the lightning is on the side toward then you will not see your women dancing you, or over your great ranges or sacred and grimacing, because apprehension has places, remember that you will fall before seized them, for from them comes• the blood your enemy ; therefore reflect and be wary ; of the performing men that is to be borne follow not the precepts of the ignorant, but into the fray and poured forth upon the rather those of the thoughtful; rearrange land. An error has been made in your your affairs and postpone your attack, for dancing, therefore be cautious—it is a ma- you have chanced upon evil days. lignant demon—wait a while and see if the Study carefully the subject of twitch- evil omen does not pass by ; or look care- ings. If your arms, or legs, or your head fully at your ancestor Uenuku, who will be jerked or thrown outwards from the urge you on or restrain you. Should he body, you at once call out to your com- be seen by you standing in the form of a panions, "0 friends! I have had a tam- bow over the track behind you as you face aki!" Whereupon they will inquire, "In your enemy, go on, for that is the time which direction?" You may reply, "Toward when your enemy will be delivered into the mountain yonder." Then your com- your hand by the god. But if your ances- panions will remark, "Our enemy is at that tor be arched in front of you to block your place." Now, after such an occurrence, advance, retire. If, however, you still wait quietly to see if your tamaki will make have a strong desire to advance, be sure not a return mainfestation. If the hand or to enter within his arched form, but turn hands clutch, or the leg or legs, or head of to your left and proceed in a circuitous that person, or of one of his companions, is manner, taking two or three days to make jerked somewhat gently inward, that is a such a detour, before you turn to advance good omen ; the tamaki is repressed, and in the direction of your enemy. Be your such an occurrence is termed a hau korero eyes steadfast to observe all the manifesta- (the enemy is talking about you and dis- tions of your ancestor to yourself either by cussing plans to attack you). day or night. Should he again block your Now, if you have an outward tamaki passage, then you must absolutely return. (start), which is afterward returned in a If his bow appears before you and you somewhat violent manner, whether by the advance and enter it, then misfortune arm or arms, leg or legs, or by the head awaits you beyond him. jerking inward from the direction in which Carefully view the hiko (distant light- the first convulsive start was directed, then ning), besides the uira and the kanapu, for the person experiencing such will cry, "0 the hiko betokens the blood of chiefs who friends! my tamaki has returned in a vig- are to fall in battle, or be drowned, or orous manner, impelled by the brow of burnt to death, or die a natural death ; man." Be cautious; at dawn or later the hence it will be well to explain as to the enemy will attack you. THE MID -PACIFIC 367

When you go to the wars, on the day action, then the enemy will not be able to you leave your homes, abide by the resist the charge, as it was a woman who following items: Let food for the gave the word of command to attack; for, journey be carefully cooked; if it turns out of a verity, women are as a cliff over which to be thoroughly cooked, it is a good omen; men leap to death. • if undercooked, it is an evil omen. Be Again, if a peace is concluded in time of discreet in your behavior; be not irascible war by men, it will not be a firm and last- or prone to murmur; interfere not with ing one. It is termed a male peace, and others or speak harshly to them. Have stands for treachery, deceit, trouble. But nothing to do with any undesirable or evil if women assume the function of making act, lest such afflict you when in action. peace, that is known as a female peace, and When you are marching in a body to war, it will be a firm, durable one. dc• not march in solid column (better to Carefully examine all gunshot wounds move in open order, and not in the foolish received by men, whether fatal or not, and manner adopted by European troops), but whether received by men of your own side have scouts out ahead and in the rear. or by those of the enemy. If it is seen And let the scouts in front have two kiore that most of such wounds are in the stom- out ahead of them to search the forest, and ach or legs, that is a sign that the fight is gullies, and rocks for your enemies. See waning; but if the many men have been that those kiore do not keep together, but struck in the chest or head, then the fight let one be five or six chains in advance of is waxing and will not soon be concluded. the other, lest both of the kiore (rats) be Likewise, as you and your enemy are fight- captured. Because those kiore are persons ing, and you observe your wounded or dead who have been handed over to death, and falling, if they fall with their heads in the must be separated, so that if one of them direction of your enemy, that is a good be captured the other escapes to convey the omen for you, for the death of your dead news to the toro (scouts) behind and to the will hereafter be avenged ; but if they fall main body. with their heads toward your side, then it The uplifted voice (war-cry) is an im- is a bad lookout. Be thoughtful, lest your portant item in fighting. However loud enemy get the best of you ere long. the roar of the guns, let the shouting voice Remember to be careful when you are be heard, "Charge! 0 (mentioning here advancing to attack your enemy, and cap- the name of the clan or tribe) Charge! ture a 'person of the enemy's side on the Charge !" Whereupon your enemy will track or in the forest, to slay that person or break, retire, fly. Likewise the clan or persons—to actually kill him. Do not tribe whose name is thus shouted out—both spare him as a captive for yourself, lest evil sinews and bodies will be braced to rush come upon you—the evil of the "suspended recklessly toward that calling voice—sus- weapon." Ponder the remark of your an- tained by sympathy and a like mind that all cestor, the prophet Isaiah, who said : "Let should fall together on the field rather not the man going forth to battle rejoice than be defeated or than disregard the cry, doth he who is loosening his belt." to remain •hereafter a subject for the dis- We will return and say a few more course of the enemy before the world. words of enlightenment in regard to the Bear in mind that the kahawai is the fish war-dance. If you have no women or old compared with woman ; also that a wom- men to criticize your dancing, then select an's voice is one that has much power, and some persons who are becoming elderly to commands much sympathy in time of bat- act in that capacity at the time when the tle. For if a woman assumes the func- first challenge spear is cast at you—that is. tion of uttering the war-cries and calls to at your kneeling column. Let the rising 3b8 THE MID- PACIFIC of the column be briskly executed, then and middle be not separated, the men keep await the casting of the second spear. time in running, in halting, and kneeling, When that has passed by, watch for the in rising to perform the dance, and no one final spear (of the challengers), and, as it falls during the movements; you know reaches you, commence your dance, after thereby that on the morrow your enemy which you kneel at the place pointed out will be squeaking in your hand like a rat. for that purpose. You will please your- There is another small detail to be noted: self as to whether or not you retire back- If, when a war-party advances and is pos- ward, and, on acquiring a certain interval, sibly nearing the enemy in his fort, or in again move forward to kneel once more at open country, the warriors may rise to per- the spot you retired from. After this pro- form a war-dance in order to ascertain the cedure come the war-songs or haka. state of the courage of the party and the The following are the evil omens, known probability of success, and a certain number of the party chances to be lethargic or as korapa, in performing the war-dance: sleepy, and happens to commit a ridiculous The falling of some of the men whilst 1. action, be careful that he is not laughed at. running. for it betokens the voices of the enemy's 2. The breaking of the column into small women and children wailing in your hand parties, the front and rear portions being at dawn of day. separated by intervals of space, and the There are yet other explanations and center scattered. directions in regard to war, but although 3. When, in chanting the war-song or we have many here written, and there are haka, the singers do not keep time, or some a great many not included herein, yet the are out of tune, or some other error is mainstay of all these items that have been committed. quoted is faith in God, as remarked in the 4. -When, in standing up to make a forty-sixth psalm of David: You, 0 chil- speech, a man turns the wrong way, or dren, are acquainted with the many writ- makes an error in repeating a song, a ings in the Scriptures referring to Him. charm, or other such item. For he is the commencement, the middle, When you have your column on the and the end of all performances in the ground, and your friends have another, heavens above, the earth beneath, and the your men will critically watch his, and his waters under the earth. Therefore, fix will watch yours. But when your column your thoughts firmly on God, that he may is rushing forward, and your friend's col- protect you among the deeds of the battle- umn is rushing toward you in your con- field, besides relying on your ancestor test, do not run on the left side of your Uenuku, who is a go-between between Gods friend (of the opposing column), but see and man. that your column passes by his right side All these things were taught me by the and his party passes on your right side. If old men of the Ao-wera clan and the main your two columns are performing these tribe of Ngati-Porou, but the bulk of such evolutions, and your own column is run- matters I am unable .to write. Well, if ning forward in the direction of the enemy, any errors are contained herein, put the then let your ally's column wheel in behind blame on me. your column, and, when properly lined up, The war-songs, haka, and watch-songs. advance at a trot and perform the war- and other Maori items I have not written dance, and halt and kneel at the spot se- in this account ; indeed, the watch-songs lected for that purpose. Albeit your two would be of no benefit in the gun-fighting columns are now as one, they present no of the present time. But the haka may scattered appearance. If the front, rear, still be employed, and if any mistake is THE MID-PACIFIC 369 made in singing these songs, or the war- hau force. Henare Nihoniho and his song, such is an evil omen. Here, indeed, party fell at Manga-one on Sunday, 20th iA the Ngati-Porou haka sung in war-time; June, 1865, and the warning of the mis- if wrongly rendered, misfortune follows ; rendered song at Popoti was fulfilled. I if correctly performed, then the sun is was among the council of old men listening shining beyond the clouds of war. to their detaining speeches and their lamen- This was the haka (song) of the Taki- tation. They already knew that misfor- o-te-rangi and Ngati-Porou at the fight at tune loomed near, and they were right. Toka-a-kuku. On acocunt of the correct But the bulk of the people wished Henare rendering of this song, Ngati-Porou was and his clan to be allowed to go to fetch saved from Te Whanau-a-Apanui. When- the guns, and advance to expel the Hauhau ever Te Ao-wera and Ngati-Porou were lest they enter the Ngati-Porou bounds. ready to lift the war-trail, this song was However, I cannot give an account of all sung during the war-dance. If correctly the omens that were fulfilled during the rendered, it was a good omen; if otherwise, late war, but all these mentioned herein are a bad omen. It was also sung before the genuine items—I have seen them all truth- march to Manga-one, where Henare Niho- fully verified. It was because I carefully niho and others were slain ; sung at Popoti, attended to all the omens in this screed, as and incorrectly so ; hence the old men rose explained by the old men, that I was suc- to prevent Henare and his party marching cessful in bearing arms. I was born at on Friday, 18th of June, 1865, though, as Whare-ponga on the 30th October, 1850, they were going to fetch the guns of the and bore arms in warfare from 1865 to Government for the Queen Natives, the 1870. I was appointed captain of the Ao- party was allowed to proceed unarmed to wera, under my elder, Major Ropata. On Te Awa-nui, where the guns were to be account of courage and loyalty on my part, landed. The party started on Saturday, the Queen sent me a sword as a token of the 19th of June, and reached Te Awa-nui ; honor, which is now preserved in the in the evening a messenger arrived to tell Museum at Wellington for the inspection them to go to Manga-one, because fight- of my descendants. The inscription on ing had taken place between the Hauhau that sword, which was engraved in Eng- and the Queen Natives, so they marched gunless that night, and, as Sunday dawned, land, is, "The Ao-wera Clan, Ngatiporou the party came into conflict with the Hau- Rifles."

The modern haka or war dance. 370 THE MID-PACIFIC

•:*

Maui is the Mecca for those who seek the sublime and beautiful in Nature. Haleakala, that awe-inspiring crater, is without doubt her most won- derful attraction, but there are others, better known than Hale- akala, and better loved. One of these is lao Valley, behind Wailuku, and the, picture shows the road leading up to this most beautiful valley in the world. The Silver-Sword of Haleakala, Maui.

Maui, the Tourist's Mecca The world wonder, Haleakala; Iao Valley; dreamy old Lahaina; the wonderful Ditch Trail Country.

By WORTH 0. AIKEN. •

AUI has, without any doubt, after a rest and lunch, from there horse- more to offer the tourist, the back over an easy trail eight miles to the M traveler, than any other island of rest house on the summit. To one with the Hawaiian group. More in variety, in less time to spare, the steamer Claudine can grandeur, and more in beauty—if the elo- be taken to Kahului, leaving Honolulu at quent testimony of numerous recent visit- 5 o'clock in the afternoon and the summit ors is to be credited, and better testimony of the mountain reached easily before noon it would be hard to find, as they approach of the next day. the subject unbiased and with open minds. TRIPS WORTH WHILE. It is five hours' sailing over a placid sum- Great are the possibilities on this trip mer sea in the fine steamer Mauna Kea to afforded to one with some leisure time, to Lahaina, passing the shores of Molokai see sights and scenes that would well repay and Lanai; an interesting and beautiful the effort. Lahaina—beautiful old La- automobile drive from Lahaina to Wai- haina !—the ancient capital of the islands, luku, twenty-three miles over an excellent "a place full of ghosts and old times, an road, looking into wonderful gorges and old town that grips the heart of you—that circling the mountain, winding in and out demands of you memories that are as flit- a few hundred feet directly above the sea ; ting and elusive but just as insistent as the a night in Wailuku in a comfortable hotel; ghosts themselves." Tropical Lahaina, the next morning another auto ride over with sea bathing the equal- of any in the good roads, through cane fields and pastures islands, and the deep-sea fishing off its to Olinda, half way up the mountain, and shores better than any in the world.

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From Lahaina an auto trip can easily descriptive testimony from .their pens, but be made over a good road overlooking the even then the reader would be left with no Molokai channel, and skirting verdant hills real idea of the grandeur there displayed. to Honokahau valley, described by Kath- Did a painter put on canvas the gorgeous erine M. Yates as "the most beautiful little colorings of a Haleakala sunset or sunrise, valley in the world." Back of. Lahaina lie the actual riot of colors there depicted, the some wonderful gorges and valleys that magnificence of the cloud effects, the beauty would be famed were they elsewhere, and and charm of the valley and mountains that can be reached by the venturesome below, of the blue sea surrounding you, traveler. with a fleet of islands anchored here and The ride from Lahaina to Wailuku has there, and that blue sea rising up on all often been called one of the most beautiful sides till you seemed to be situated in the drives in the world. bottom of a huge saucer; could he place on Back of Wailuku and of easy access by that canvas the stupendousness, the grand- auto lies the famous Iao valley, called the eur, and the awe of the huge crater, nearly Yosemite of Hawaii. This wonderful lit- thirty miles in circumference, nine miles in tle valley, with its peaks and crags tower- length, and over a mile in depth; did he, ing from three to four thousand feet or could he do all this, I say—people would straight above you, its waterfalls and trop- shake their heads and say he was crazy. ical growth, is a sight distinctive to itself Jack London well said that "Haleakala has and well worth any effort to see. a message of beauty and wonder that can- Puunene sugar mill, one of the largest not be delivered by proxy." and best equipped in the world, and many Kamehameha marched his army from other points of interest are easily reached Kaupo up through the crater, and at the from Wailuku, included amongst which white hill, the very highest point of the might be mentioned the pineapple canneries mountain, met and vanquished the forces and the pineapple country at Haiku., of Maui. From Olinda, on the mountain, a well- Besides being a point of historical inter- paved trail runs five miles into the heart of est, the view from this point is sublime, the forest, and the trees, ferns, plants and and an easy trail will be built from the tropical growth there found are beautiful Rest House so all who wish may easily beyond decsription, to say nothing of the make it. Arrangements will also be made natural scenery of the trail. for trips into the crater, for visits to the And all of this lies on the road to Halea- rare Silver Sword plants that are found in kala—the greatest wonder of the islands. only one other place in the world, and for When Kilauea's fires shall have forever other interesting trips that can be made ceased to glow, the glories of Haleakala without great discomfort from the Rest will yet continue to spread the fame of House. Hawaii throughout the world, because of A noted world traveler, after visiting all the thousands who will annually look into parts of the islands, wrote as follows: that magnificent crater—and whose won- "Haleakala appeals to me as the supreme dering eyes will never be disappointed. scenic spectacle of the Hawaiian group, and Rising abruptly from the sea, over 10,000 I believe that the time is not far distant feet in height, the views presented from when that great crater will be famed its summit are marvelous in the extreme, throughout the traveled world as one of and in extent and variety must be seen to the sublime wonders of creation. Within be appreciated or even believed. John the crater is displayed a scene of such Burroughs, Jack London and other writers magnitude and magnificence as must stir of note have expatiated upon Haleakala as the heart of the most prosaic visitor and the greatest sight of their lives, and page impress its uplift upon the soul of every after page could be filled with eloquent beholder. It never disappoints. THE MID-PACIFIC 373

And all this is easily accessible, and soon On the northern slopes of Haleakala lies will be made more so, and a trip that can the wonderful Koolau ditch trail country, be made in comfort. which can easily be visited either by A comfortable rest house has just been tramping parties or by horseback, and which completed on the summit of the mountain, i3 a sight never to be forgotten. The located on the very brink of the cra- grandeur of its valleys, its gorges, its water- ter. Large observation windows are pro- falls and its trails is exceeded by nothing vided so that the glory of the sun- else of its kind anywhere. The trail leads rise may be enjoyed from within the house through the rubber plantations of Nahiku and the view into the crater and of the to Hana, and around to Kaupo, the gap surrounding country be had without leav- through which the trail to the crater runs. ing the warmth of the very welcome fire. Hana is an, interesting old town, with its Comfortable beds will soon be provided, historical headland, Kauiki Head, and an so that a good night's rest may be had, in excellent bathing beach close by. The trip hich case the eight-mile horseback ride to the summit of Haleakala down into the up the mountain will seem as nothing. crater through the Kaupo gap to Hana, and Three miles from the rest house, along the back by the ditch trail, is one that in the edge of the crater, is located the white hill variety of quality of its grandeur can be at the top of the sliding sands, down which equaled nowhere else in the world. At the trail into the crater goes. This white Lahaina and at Wailuku excellent country hill and the adjoining plateau was the hotels can be found, and at Paia and at scene of one of the big battles of Kameha- Hana good boarding houses will provide meha the First in his conquest of Maui. for all the temporary needs of the traveler. and the hill is covered with the ruins of so that Maui can be visited in all comfort numerous little forts or shelters thrown up to protect the defenders from the slings and and with much pleasure and profit to the arrows of the invaders. visitor.

A meagre glimpse over Haleakala. 374 THE MID-PACIFIC

,4lmost every sacred spot in China has its pagoda and traditions. Con- fucius himself doubtless looked lovingly upon his favorite pagoda, and today an entire mountain, Nature's pagoda, is held sacred in the hearts of all Chinese. A Confucian temple in China.

China's Holy Mountain An instructive description of the most important of Nature-Gods.

By J. H. McKINNON. 0

RAVELERS who are tired of fol- the soil of Japan to open the eyes of its lowing the beaten tourist route in then barbarian tribes to the beauties of T the cities of the Old World, or Fuji. The T'ai Sh'an is in Shantung prov- those who have become jaded with the ince, and it was from the side of this moun- fussy prettiness of Japan and long for a tain that Confucius looked forth to declare journey off the main traveled roads of the to his disciples that for the first time he Orient, now have opened to them one of realized what a small place the world was. the most interesting regions of the world Like all the mountains of China, the from a historical standpoint, and one sur- T'ai Shan is a nature-god whose principal passed nowhere for beauty both of nature function is to distribute rain over the sur- and handiwork of man. This is the holy rounding country. The clouds which col- mountain of China, the T'ai Shan that was lect at the summit of the mountain do in- venerated and made the object of pilgrim- deed seem to be produced by it, and that is ages before the first Chinese had set foot on why the mountain is invoked when drought

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endangers the harvests or too much water Clouds, shares with him the homage of the threatens to rot them. Furthermore, the faithful. This goddess is of compara- mountain assures, by its enormous weight, tively recent origin; a statue, discovered the stability of its surroundings in the Chi- near the summit of the T'ai Shan, was nese mind, and every time, therefore, that the basis of the new religion which, in the a shock of earthquake or the overflow of a Ming period, acquired a considerable river suggests that the earth has lost its vogue. The Pi-hsia-yuan-ch'un is properly equilibrium, prayer will go up to the a goddess of dawn, the rosy fingered Eos of mountain. the Greek, as it is in the east that the The maintenance of the temples is en- tinged clouds appear which herald the ris- trusted to Taoist monks, for Taoism is ing of the day-star; she is considered the 'principally the religion of nature-worship. daughter of the god of the T'ai Shan. Besides the official faith, popular beliefs Gradually she has become the feminine also have sprung up and must be taken into goddess par excellence, and is for Northern account. In the first century of the Chris- China the equivalent of what Kuang-yin is tian era T'ai Shan was thought of as the for Southern China. Accompanied by her place to which the souls of the dead re- two acolytes, the Goddess of Family In- turned ; this conception may be explained creases (Sung-tzu nai-nai) and the Goddess by considering that the T'ai Shan presides of Good Sight (Yen-ch'ing nai-nai), it is in the east, that is to say, at the origin of she who draws to her sanctuary all those all beings; since the souls of men must issue wives who long for motherhood and all thence when they are called into existence, those mothers who dread ophthalmia for and, says the Taoist, it is but natural that their new-born child ; she is the women's they return thither when they have accom- goddess, and the fervor of the supplications plished their destiny. The T'ai Shan is which rise to her have given her an impor- thus the gloomy realm of shades. The god tance in popular worship greater than that of the T'ai Shan presides at birth and of the god of T'ai Shan himself. To her death ; he it is who gives his lictors charge especially do those pilgrims pray, who flock to go forth upon the earth and seize those to the holy mountain from the beginning of men who have come to the term of their the year to the eighteenth day of the fourth natural life. It is to him, therefore, in month. cases of grave illness, that prayers are Outside its special attributes, the T'ai addressed to obtain prolongation of life. Shan at various times has played a further Under the influence of the moral teach- important part in Chinese religion ; it was ing of Buddhism, the god of the T'ai Shan, on this mountain that the sacrifice was cele- who formerly confined himself to the super- brated by the emperor Wu in 110 B. C., by vision of the purely physical activities of the emperor Kuang-wu in 56 A.D., by the life and death, has been gradually trans- emperor Kao-tsung in 666, by the emperor formed; this lord of the kingdom of life Hsuan-tsung in 725, and finally by the em- and death has become the judge of hell, and peror Chen-tsung in 1008. This ceremony, this explains why in the majority of the "Feng," was propitiatory to Heaven ; it temples consecrated to the T'ai Shan are consisted in enclosing in a stone coffin a seen in a series of seventy-five little chapels text written on strips of jade to announce to in which are represented the various tribu- Heaven the highest pitch of a dynasty; its nals of Hades with their respective imple- correlative was the Shan ceremony which ments of torture. comprised a similar address to the Earth. The god of the T'ai Shan is not alone The ceremony was carried out at the sum- adored in the temples consecrated to the mit of T'ai Shan, because it was there that sacred mountain ; a feminine divinity, the one was nearest to Heaven. The cere- Pi-hsia-yuan-ch'un or Princess of Colored mony "Shan" took place at the foot of T'ai THE MID-PACIFIC 377 than, on tne little hill called bne-shou, Dc- is hidden by a gilded mask, but his hands cause it was the point or convergence or and legs are visible. This holy personage me surrounding plain. According to tradi- is a Taoist who lived from 1610 to 1703. tion, these rites go back to the most remote North of the courtyard, we reach by a antiquity, and seventy two sovengns are staircase the principal building of the Yu- mentioned who practised them in prenistoric huang-ko; on the upper story, worship of times. In point of fact, however, the sac- the Emporer of Jade, a favorite divinity of rifice of the emperor W u in 110 B. C., is Taoism, takes place; while under the dome the first which seems to be historically in- on the ground floor are to be seen statues contestable. After the emperor Wu, the of the San-kuan (Three Magistrates) (Feng) ceremony on T'ai Shan was con- which are those of Heaven, Earth and tinued only four times. If this rite, so Wgter. In the enclosure of the Yu-huang- rarely celebrated and at so long intervals, ko is the Hsing-kung (Place of Travel) has none the less left an indelible trace on which the emporer Ch-ien-lung occupied in the pages of history; it is because it was the 1770. highest expression of the most solemn and Leaving the enclosure of the Yu-huang- magnificent conception of which China was ko and resuming our way to the Ta-wang capable; the monumental inscriptions of Miao (Temple of the Great King). Ador- 726 and of 1008, one at the top of the ie here performed to a certain Hsieh Hsu, mountain, the other to the south of the ation is here performed to a certain Hsieh town of T'aian Fu, are testimonies which Hsu, who, in 1270, proved his loyalty by set anew before our eyes the costly splendor drowning himself in despair when the Mon- of the homage that the Son of Heaven came gols invaded the town of Hangchow, the to bring to the Supreme Diety. capital of the Sungs. The T'ai Shan has a height of about We next reach a hamlet above which, on 4,400 feet above sea level. To climb this the west side, is a temple of Kuan-ti. The mountain it is necessary to hire porters who, worship of these deified heroes is one of by means of a primitive but comfortable the most popular in modern China; the chair, undertake to get the traveler up the emporer or rather the god Kuan, is none giddy paths. and stairs which lead to its other than Kuan Yu, who died in 219 A.D. summit. By starting from T'aian Fu at after showing unshaken devotion to his 5:30 a. m., even with various stoppages en soverign; he was a native of Shansi and route, one can reach the summit before that is why his temple, as similarly it may noon. As for the descent, that will take be seen in many other places, has become a three hours. meeting-place for the people of Shansi. Leaving the town of T'aian Fu by the Soon after, the triumphal arch Yih-t'ien North Gate, in about five minutes one Men, or the First Gate of Heaven, denotes caches the foot of the mountain as indi- the beginning of the climb. Further on cated by a little triumphal arch, the Tai- will be found a Second Gate of Heaven, tsung-fang, rebuilt in 1730. Beyond this Erh-t'ien Men, half-way up, and when the portico, to the west of the route, is the Heavenly Gate of the South, Nan-t'ien Men Taoist temple of Yu-huang-ko (Sovereign is reached, we have attained the plateau of Jade). Entering this by the gate on which crowns the T'ai Shan. These three which are inscribed the words "Pai-ho- triumphal arches will thus be considered as chuan" (Spring of White Storks), turn to marking three stages of the march which the right and in a courtyard will be seen, on seems as though it must lead to Heaven. the right, the Hsien-jen-tung (Grotto of Immediately after the First Gate of the Blessed). If the door• be opened, in a Heaven, a second triumphal arch bears the glass recess can be seen the mummified body inscription "Kung-tzu teng lin ch'u," which of a monk dressed in a red robe; his face alludes to a passage of Menicus where it 378 THE MID-PACIFIC

is stated that Confucius, having there can be made here to drink a cup of tea on climbed a mountain, thought the country a terrace from which a very fine view is to of Lu small. According to this same text be obtained. The traveler sees at his feet of Mencius, when Confucius had climbed the city of T'aian Fu, which, with the the T'ai Shan, he gathered the same idea numerous trees growing about its temples, of the whole empire; a stela to be seen at seems like a forest in the midst of cultivated the summit of the T'ai Shan records the fields. More to the south, a gleam of light second occasion; but here, at the very be- shows where the river Wen flows along the ginning of the climb, is the spot whence the foot of the mountains which shut in the principality of Lu seemed small to Con- horizon. fucius, and this it is that is commemorated The climb recommences when is reached by the triumphal arch. the succession of small bridges whose names Within a short distance the route passes are poetical indications of the appearance under the domed arch of a storied building of the little torrents they span: K'ua-hung called Wan-hsien-lou, Tower of the Im- Ch'iao, Bridge which crosses the Rainbow, mortals. This edifice was erected in 1620; Hui-lung Ch'iao, Bridge of the Sinuous on the first floor are the Princess of Colored Dragon, Hseuh-hua Ch-iao, Bridge of Clouds and her two acolytes; on the sec- Snow-flowers. The triumphal arch which ond are a number of frescoes representing follows and which bears the words Wu- the eight immortals, the gods of happiness, ta-fu-sung, recalls the tradition according of public functions and of longevity. to which, in 219 B.C., the famous em- After a quarter of an hour's climb the peror Ch'in Shih-huang-ti conferred the Toumukung, Temple of the Goddess of little Wu-ta-fu (Grand Officer of the 15th the Greater Bear, is passed on the east of Degree) on a pine tree which had sheltered the road. This temple, within whose walls him at a time when, descending the T'ai- are to be found a singular mixture of Taoist shan, he was surprised by a storm. and Buddhist divinities, was inhabited up A quarter of an hour further on, the to 1906 by Taoist nuns. ascent becomes very steep, and it is by a Cross the Kao-lao Ch'iao bridge, thus staircase of stone steps that we finally reach named after a certain Taoist, Kao, whose the Heavenly Gate of the South, Nan-t'ien personality is, however, in obscurity, and Men, and stand upon the plateau which pass in front of the little Sanctuary of the forms the summit of the T'ai-Shan, where Three Functionaries (Heaven, Earth, Wa- are grouped the principal places of worship. ter), San-Kuan Miao, to arrive at the Ch'u- The most important of these temples shui-liu bridge, where a good view may be is that of the Goddess of Colored Clouds, obtained of a stretch of mountain torrent the Pi-hsia-kung, which the route crosses which has worn itself a passage amidst mag- from east to west. nificent rocks. Then come in order: the In the inner courtyard, a quadrangular Eeng-hsien Ch'iao (Bridge by which one pavilion, Chin-chueh or Golden Door, rises to the Immortals) ; and the Hu-t'ien contains a statue of the goddess; pilgrims Ko, a monumental porch built in 1747; a prostrate themselves before it and, when little stone triumphal arch, painted red and they have given their offering, a Taoist bearing the words Hui-ma-ling, Mountain monk strikes a blow on an iron basin to where one sends back the Horses, this be- announce that the gift has been received. ing the highest point which can be reached More to the rear, the inner building, on horseback. covered with bronze tiles, is occupied by A half hour later one reaches, by means the goddess accompanied by her two acol- of a flight of steps, the Chung-t'ien Men, ytes, the lady patroness of maternity, and Heavenly Gate of the Center; and a stop the lady who ensures good sight. The side THE MID-PACIFIC 379 buildings, covered with iron tiles, are con- never born any inscription, and must have secrated to these two secondary divinities. been hoisted to the summit of the T'ai- These temples, which were restored lin Shan by order of the Emperor Wu of the 1907, originally were the sanctuary which Han dynasty, in 110 B.C. was built around the Pond of the Woman After visiting the Temple of the of Jade, following upon the discoverey Soverign of Jade one goes to view, on the here, in 1008, of a stone statue of a female. west side, the little building called Ch'in- Outside of the temple and towards the kung, The Queen's Bed-chamber. In it north, is the Tung-yueh Miao, the Temple is, a recumbent statue of the Goddess of of the God of the Eastern Peak. This Colored Clouds, laid in a bed. This sanc- sanctuary is much less important than the tuary is the object of special veneration on preceding and this shows that the worship the part of the pilgrims. of the goddess has eclipsed that of the god. A little further on, the K'ung-tzu-Tien, One must not fail to see the colossal in- a little temple dedicated to Confucius, has scription engraved on the rock behind the this peculiarity that Confucius and his building in which stands the statue of the four assistants are represented by statues, God of the T'ai-shan. This inscription whereas in the majority of similar buildings measures 27 feet high by 5 feet wide ; it the objects of veneration are simple tablets. was composed and written by the Emperor Some distance to the east of the Temple H suan-tsung of the T'ang dynasty, when, of the Soverign of Jade is a containing in the year 726, he celebrated the sacrifice wall, partly washed away, whose stone (Feng) at the summit of the mountain. gates, on the west and south, have been It commemorates this solemn ceremony. preserved; in the center, an esplanade The characters are inscribed in a checker- bears a stela on which are engraved verses pattern, each square of which is 8 inches composed by the t mporer Ch'ien-lung, in high by 10 inches wide ; they were origi- 1757 and 1762. There was on this site, nally gilt. A little further on stands the in the fifteenth century, a temple, now en- Ch'ing-ti-Kung, temple of the Green Em- tirely destroyed. peror. This divinity is the one who pre- A little more to the north we reach a sides over the east, for the green corres- peak whence the view ranges over the low ponds to the east in the theory of the five valley which opens to the.northeast of the elements. Finally, the culminating point T'ai-Shan. This peak is called Jih-kuan- of the mountain is reached, where is the feng, Peak whence to Gaze upon the Ris- temple consecrated to the supreme divinity ing Sun. of Taoism, the Soverign of Jade, Yu- Keeping along the ridge of the moun- huang. tains and going in an easterly direction, In the court of the temple, an octagonal the eastern extremity of the plateau is barrier surrounds the rocks, which ihre reached. The precipices which border it, considered the highest point of the T'ai- having for many ages exercised a terrible Shan. At the foot of the terrace, by which _attraction for mankind, causing a pro- the Yu-huang-ting or Summit of the longed epidemic of suicide, stirred the Chi- Soverign of Jade is reached, an enormous nese authorities to take action, and a stone quadrangular block of stone, nearly 16 wall on which is inscribed, "It is forbidden feet high, has often been considered the to commit suicide," makes access to this stela on which Chih-huang-ti engraved, in fateful promontory by no means easy. 219 B.C., an inscription whose text has From this point the return journey to the been preserved by the historian Szu-ma ' Grand Temple of the Goddess and the way Ch'ien ; the researches of Chinese epigraph- ists have proved that this monolith has down the mountain begins. 380 THE MID-PACIFIC

4.•

In Australia cricket is as popular among the masses as is baseball in America. The inter-state matches are the most popular, and the chief difficulty in "staging" these is to find a field large enough to seat the thronging thousands. A Cricket Game in Sydney.

A Country Cricket in Australia Showing that Australians are just as enthusiastic over their national game as Americans are over theirs.

By C. R. HOGUE. 0:* •

T IS rarely necessary to apologise note—testify that the game was played when one takes up his pen to in the reign of Edward the First. I write upon cricket. As an intro- With a young nation of 124 summers duction to "country cricket," how- only, the "national" game has nothing ever, I propose to preface my article to be ashamed of, as its history dates with a very brief reference to the "king back somewhere about the year 1803, of games." England boasts an ancient so the game has already celebrated its history for her national pastime in centenary in, the antipodes. In 1830, support of which her historians and the earliest record of a match of any others record that cricket was played consequence—that between two regi- as early as the twelfth century, to be mental teams—appears. The match exact, in the year 1180. One Joseph, was played for the sum of £100 a side. poet, of Exeter, writes of the old game Shortly after this English teams visited in 1180, whilst many writers—a few of Australia and firmly planted the seed

381 382 THE MID-PACIFIC of cricket in the capital cities, which average of two to three afternoons soon spread to the country districts. weekly, whereas some small villages In 1856 New South Wales and Victoria will fix one day per week for practice, commenced their long series of inter- such as it is. The wickets are nearly colonial matches which create a good all concrete covered with matting, and deal of enthusiasm annually. In 1891 in many cases what is known as a mud- the Earl of Sheffield brought out a team matting wicket is requisitioned. The from home, captained by the wonderful latter is, of course, earth covered with Dr. W. G. Grace. His Lordship was a matting, deriving its name (mud) from rare supporter of the game, and that the fact that it is made up while wet. year offered a handsome shield for com- As to the prowess of "wayback" petition by the three states of New cricketers, they compare favorably with South Wales, Victoria and South Aus- their Sidney cousins, considering their tralia. These contests are known as many disadvantages. Countrymen are the Sheffield shield games. But we are invariably first-class fieldsmen. In chiefly concerned with country cricket fact, some excellent players are to be and its welfare just now. met with in the large towns, and a stray Few people realise the disadvantages Bardsley or a Whitty will be found hid- under which country folk labor in re- ing his light under a bushel, as it were, gard to cricket. It speaks volumes for in the smallest hamlet. As an illustra- the enthusiasm of persons on the land tion, a young chap rejoicing in the to be able to chronicle that, almost name of Mann was discovered at Thirl- without exception, cricket is played in mere, and included in a combined coun- every town and village throughout the try team to tour Sydney. Mann proved Mother State, and, for that matter, the a great hitter, and amassed 500 runs Commonwealth of Australia. The chief for the week's cricket. Curiously trouble is, naturally, the hours country enough he repeated the performance the cousins are compelled to work, with following year, totalling over 1000 runs rare exceptions ; of whom the few Gov- for a fortnight's cricket. The writer ernment and Bank officers form the knows of no better record anywhere bulk. Those on the land, likewise than that of this young son of the soil. storekeepers and their employees, have This player has been asked to play with their spare time pretty well occupied a leading Sydney team, viz.: Padding- from morning till evening—certainly ton, a club made famous in the past by until it is out of, the question to have Noble, Trumper, and Kelly amongst a practice. Notwithstanding all this, others. Mann is one of the hardest hit- the country enthusiast will always be ters living and delights his admirers at ready for his game of cricket every Thirlmere by regularly lifting the ball Saturday or Wednesday afternoon out of the ground and clearing 120-foot seven months annually, according to the gum trees fringing the boundary. Coun- operations of our early closing acts. try cricket owes a deal to a few enthusi- The acts in question allow, the districts asts—missionaries almost—who collect —that is, municipalities—to choose the combined teams and bring them to Syd- weekly half-holiday. As to practice ney at great expense. Chief of these most "back block" folks rarely indulge are Dr. Ackland O'Hara, and his in that luxury, trusting to their keen brother, Mr. J. Still O'Hara, who are eye and hardy muscles to see them through as a general rule. In the larger rare enthusiasts, and whose teams are towns, practice is partaken of on an at last commencing to hold their own THE 383

with their redoutable Sydney opponents. very ably, and on rare occasions even It is pleasing to be able to record the succeeding in trouncing their more fact that the country has supplied such gifted friends "down under." The As- famous giants of the king of games as sociation only at its last monthly meet- Bonner, Turner, McKibben and How- ing went into the question of further ell, to note only a few. The best indi- "fostering" country cricket, which, if cation of the headway country cricket it be given half a chance, is destined to is making is the number of turf wickets still further flourish in the near future. to be found inland. The larger towns In conclusion, it is interesting to notice are all laying down these wickets at a few of the idiosyncrasies of the up- considerable expense, and Youlburn, country player, the most noticeable be- Maitland and Newcastle, as well as a few others, have already such wickets. ing his enthusiasm—often bordering on The New South Wales cricket Associa- excitement, his clapping of the oppos- tion—our M. C. C. in this State—regu- ing captain as that gentleman walks to larly assists the country districts, not- the wicket, and his expressions during ably in the way of a monetary grant the progress of a match, some of which towards turf wickets. are very amusing and occasionally For many years the combined country teams have measured blades in Sydney witty, and invariably addressed to the with city clubs, sometimes performing player individually.

Cricket Day in Australia. 384 THE MID-PACIFIC Still to be met with in Puna.

Land of "The Bird of Paradise"

Puna, Hawaii, where native Hawaiian life may still be seen as it was centuries ago.

By HENRY WALSWORTH KINNEY.

HE district of Puna may be divided through cane, to Nine Miles, Olaa, the into two sections, the Olaa region, largest plantation camp on the island. Just T the north half, and Puna proper. north of the camp a road leads makai to the Puna proper is covered by forest and old beach. It .is about four miles long, good, lava flows, most of them covered with and very pretty, passing through cane and vegetation. In spite of its exceptional the puhala forest. Right by the ocean is beauty and the fine opportunity it offers for a large pond with very cold water. seeing the typical Hawaii, which is so rap- From Nine Miles the main road strikes idly disappearing in the march of progress, west toward the Volcano and Kau, while it is comparatively little known. Still it is the road into Puna proper turns south. It possible to see the greater part of Puna in passes through cane and continues over an one day's and practically all in two days' ancient lava flow leading on to Pahoa, a autoing, while the Hilo trains pass through village, where the main road forks. One the main portions. branch leads south, through an exceptionally The main road into Puna is a continua- beautiful and well preserved section of for- tion of the Volcano road from Hilo town, est with great trees and a riotous tangle of the Puna boundary being about six miles vines and undergrowth. out from Hilo. Hence an excellent road Emerging from the forest, the main road passes through forest and, further south, passes through a comparatively recent lava

385 386 THE MID -PACIFIC flow of small width, where may be seen entrance another passage leads several hun- some structures, resembling small huts, dred feet to a wide kind of balcony in the which are, however, burying places. Such cliff, directly above the breakers. This may be seen through all the arid regions. passage is quite large and easily traversed. It being practically impossible to dig It is impossible to make the trip without through the rock, the dead are placed in candles or other artificial light. At Kala- piles of rock, and roofs are erected over pana is also the remnant of the Niukukahi these. As the road slopes toward the beach, heiau, in a dense undergrowth. It was a a very fine view is afforded. At the beach very noted temple for the god Kuahailo. the road enters first the village of Kaimu, At Kalapana the road proper ends, but a exclusively Hawaiian, with a large grove of trail leads along the coast, though some dis- cocoanut trees surrounding a fine semi- tance from it, for about eight miles, when circular sand beach. Less than a mile fur- it strikes mauka to the Volcano. It passes ther on, westward, lies the village of Kala- through a beautiful piece of country to the pana, one of the largest Hawaiian villages in Kahaualea village, where are located a ranch the islands. There are no white inhabi- and a Hawaiian village. Here is the Puna- tants, and only a couple of Chinese stores. luu pond, a mineral water deposit in a lava Kalapana still supports quite a large pop- crack, a famous bathing place, very pic- ulation, and is a very pretty village, having, turesquely located. A bit further on, about like all the Puna coast villages, a fine three miles from Kalapana, is the famous growth of cocoanuts, puhala, and monkey- Wahaula heiau, the last place where idol- pod trees. The landing is so rough that it atry was extensively practised. is used now only for canoes. Near the This heiau is one of the best preserved bluff, which rises from the sea at the land- and most interesting in the islands. It is ing, are the niu moe (sleeping cocoaunts). situated on• a bluff rising sheer above the These are bent, when young, by visiting sea, amid a lauhala and cocoanut grove. chiefs, the tree bearing afterward the name One leaves the trail so as to strike about the of the chief who had bent it. On this bluff, middle of this grove. The heiau is said to named Puu o Hakuma, is a very interest- have been built by Paao, the famous high ing and easily accessible cave, which was priest, in the eleventh century, but to have used in ancient days as a place of refuge in been rebuilt later on. It is about 132 by 72 war times. Makai of the last house in the feet in extent, but is in addition to this sur- village, at the foot of the bluff, is a cement rounded by a larger enclosure, where the mausoleum, and about a hundred feet west common people might stay. The main por- thereof is a path to the top of the bluff. A tion was the place of the priests, and was couple of hundred yards east of the top of entirely covered by an immense grass house, this trail, at about the middle of the flat top divided into several rooms. The main en- of the ridge, are some stone fences, among trance is in the middle of the makai wall, which can be located the cave entrance, a with a side entrance east thereof. In the hole with stone slab sides, through which west end is a raised dais of stones, with two one must crawl, down a narrow winding semicircular indentations, the seat of the passage, to the main chamber. The passage priests. Through the middle runs a stone was purposely made narrow, so as to make path, on which were placed the bodies of the it impossible for more than one man to enter victims, after they had been sacrificed on the at a time, and winding to prevent the great flat stone which occupies a conspicuous throwing of spears into the chamber. The place near the northeast corner. The Ha- main chamber is quite large, and partly built waiians tell the following story of the up with slabs. From the side opposite the destruction of this heiau house: A great THE MID-PACIFIC 387 wrestler lived near it. It was his habit to The heiau was named Wahaula, "red kill travelers who might come along to visit mouth," as this was a feature of the idols it the heiau. A girl lived in a cave in the contained. The tabu thereof was fire, and bluff where the trail strikes mauka toward any man on whom fell the shadow of the Kau. She would signal to him when smoke of the temple fires was sacrificed. strangers came along, and to her he would Beyond the heiau, on the makai side of bring the bodies of his victims, whereupon the trail, is pointed out the footprint of she ate them. A Kona chief had a friend Niheu, a demigod, as well as the mark of who had been sacrificed in the heiau. This an arrow which he shot at another demigod friends spirit appeared before the Kona man who came to fight him. Further west, and bade him go to the heiau to recover his makai of the place where the trail turns bones. In spite of warnings, the chief set mauka, is Kamoamoa, where there is a fine out alone, but first he anointed his body natural arch by the sea. Here are also a with slippery kukuinut juice. By this few interesting rock carvings. The most means he was able to withstand the attack easily found of these is about a hundred of the wrestler, whom he finally killed. He yards from the paddock extension toward then entered the heiau in the day, when the Kalapana, and may be located by following akuas (spirits) were absent. He hid him- the line of this extension's makai wall in an self under the bones of his friend. When easterly direction. the akuas returned that evening, they voiced The trail is narrow, passes through splen- their suspicion that there was a human in did forest, and is, though seldom used, quite the heiau. The spirit of the friend reas- easily followed. sured them that such was not the case, and To the student, as well as to the lover of they went to sleep. At midnight the Kona romance, the entire Puna region is brimful man crowed like a rooster, and the akuas of interest. It is the only place in all the left, thinking it was morning. The Kona islands where the natives live very much as man then took his friend's bones and de- they lived hundreds of years ago. Most of parted, but first he set fire to the grass the scenes in "The Bird of Paradise" are house. laid in the Puna reigon.

388 THE MID-PACIFIC

There has been marvelous progress in the Philippines since iimerican occupation, and not the smallest factor by any means in this progress is the railway, much used by the Filipinos, who have learned to travel. The Luneta Manila.

Progress in the Philippines Yesterday, Today and Tomorrow.

By MONROE WOOLEY. S

BOUT the first thing that appealed the United States until they numbered into to us when we arrived in the Philip- the hundreds and perhaps thousands. A pine Islands was the utter ignor- Schools were opened in every town, city, ance and the lack of school advantages of and barrio where a class of pupils, white, the Filipino people. brown, or yellow, could be rounded up. We said we came to liberate and to en- Now, the Philippine University, a mag- lighten, so we got on the enlightenment job nificent institution of learning, is open for right away, naturally surmising that lib- students. erty would come of itself out of learning. There was a time, when we had not In the beginning, little classes were been in the islands long, that we Americans taught by our soldiers, some of whom we thought it awfully hot there. The news found to be as good as teaching as they spread round so lively and persistently that were at fighting. That is saying more a majority of the public at home thought than appears on the surface. Then, when the Philippines a veritable bake-oven. conditions permitted, citizen teachers, men Nothing is more erroneous. It gets very and women, were sent out from all over much hotter in most of our States in sum-

389 390 THE MID-PACIFIC mer than it does at any time in the islands. keep of the garrison. Camp John Hay has There a blanket of light material feels a large hospital where convalescent soldiers comfortable nearly every night in the year. are sent from the less salubrious stations. Regardless of these encouraging weather "l he military ice and electric plant furnishes facts, we thought we needed a summer cap- ice and light to the residents. ital. Baguio, the Simla of the Philippines, And, now that we are on the subject, no resulted at a stupendous price. A grand part of our government in the Philippines thoroughfare, known as the Benguet road, has made better or more rapid progress than was built from Dagupan, the railway ter- the army. Military posts, similar in most minus north of Manila, into the mountains details to those we have here at home, but of Benguet province. This famous moun- along entirely different methods of con- tain road leads the traveler over one of the struction, have been built throughout the most picturesque highways known any- archipelago. Of these, Fort William where. It winds its tortuous way through McKinley, near Manila, is the largest. It a wild mountainous district, up gorges and is a brigade post accommodating more than chasms, by rushing torrents, water-falls and 3,000 troops, having a cavalry, an artillery, streams, into the very heart of the great pine- and an infantry garrison, besides quarters clad hills nestling in the midst of the Philip- for signal, engineer, and hospital detach- pine Alps, to Baguio. Here frost has been ments. McKinley is one of the leading known, and heavier blankets are often more show places of Manila, and few military comfortable than the lighter ones. posts in the world excel it in size or beauty. The legislative bodies and the govern- Four, eight, and twelve company posts have ment employees spend the Philippine sum- been built in all the larger towns, and there mer at Baguio, which, fixed up in United are but few provinces which have not a gar- States, means "storm." Many persons go rison of some kind. Native scout compa- there for their health in preference to China nies, officered by Americans, have been and Japan. The city has been chartered, formed and are a part of the regular army. and the governor of the province of Ben- The constabulary is a quasi-military organ- guet, who has his capital there, is president ization, having American and Filipino offi- of the council. He is an American. Per- cers, to aid in police work throughout the haps nowhere is there a town planned along provinces. more ideal lines, all construction work, in- The navy has three naval stations in the cluding buildings, being erected at govern- islands—one at Cavite, where the Spaniards ment expense, federal and insular, except in had their only yard; another in Mindanao, the cases of homes owned privately by where the savage Moros live, and still a officials. larger one at Olongapo, on Subig Bay, Baguio has a school for American chil- where the huge floating dry-dock Dewey, dren, and the Spanish monastic orders have towed out some years ago, is in operation. built a big conservatory, to equal the famous Agricultural pursuits have engaged the Manila observatory, on the highest moun- attention of the government to a great ex- tain peak. The governor-general has his tent. The country has never been on a official, as well as a private residence there, good footing agriculturally since the insur- surrounded by countless cozy bungalows, rection. And it never did come up to a having all modern conveniences, and belong- good standard as we judge such things. ing to people of means. The military post The agricultural bureau is one of the busi- of Camp John Hay is located on the out- est and biggest, ranking next after educa- skirts of the town, and the military officials tion, and there are those who say with good strive to rival Baguio's beauty in the up- sense that it should rank first. It main- THE 391 tains scores of experts on fibres, plants, second invasion of the commercial field. fruits, and grains. These men devote their Several things were against us. There was whol time to experimenting and writing the old bugaboo of no ships flying our flag, pam lets and crop reports to aid the and we were compelled to learn to do busi- hacienderoS. Nearly every province has its ness in a strange tongue and under Spanish agricultural farm or experiment station, on customs. And Spanish costumbre threw which varied crops are grown in season. conniptions over the American methods of Blooded horses, pigs, cows, and mules have business. First, a few trading companies, been shipped out from the United States being branches of Pacific Coast houses, were for, breeding purposes to better the live opened. Later, agricultural and imple- stock strain. ment agencies were established. This was On the gulf of Davao, Mindanao island, easy, because American machinery had is a goodly colony of hardy American pio- already successfully invaded Siberia, Man- neers engaged in rubber and hemp produc- churia, Japan, and China. Then came tion. These brave men, living in the midst general stores, newspapers, and cafes and of the treacherous Moros with armed pro- bars. Big steamship lines appointed Amer- tection far distant, are now, after many ican agents. Slowly the foreigners began years of hardship and 'privation, in a posi- to lose prestige and trade. Today the lead- tion to reap much merited rewards. In a ing firm in Manila, which has branches in few years, under favorable circumstances, every provincial metropolis, is American. they will be able to return home nabobs. The biggest printing establishment in the In this and in other parts of the archipelago Far East was launched in Manila in the are many Americans competing with the early days. It is one of several now. Boot natives in the cocoanut industry, and some and shoe, furniture, and candy factories, tapioca ranches have been started. rope walks, and structural steel manufac- Since few of the provincial towns are of tories have been founded and successfully such size or wealth as to warrant water- operated. works, the government has hit upon a cheap, Unlike Cuba, which has some of the fin- serviceable, and adequate method of fur- est roads in the world, the Philippines have nishing water to the principal towns, espe- been painfully lacking in this respect. cially throughout Luzon. Perhaps nowhere However, an engineer is assigned by the in the world is the supply of pure, whole- bureau of public works to each province. some water more general than it is in the Every year sees many miles of good, service- Philippine Islands. Usually one may dig able highways completed, and in time the down six feet and strike a fine stream. islands will have a network of fine thor- Hence, the artesian well has been resorted oughfares. The Philippines undoubtedly to, making it no longer necessary for the have more rivers and creeks to the square natives to carry contaminated water for mile than any other area on earth. Most drinking purposes in bamboo tubes for long of these were formerly bridged by frail distances. bamboo structures, but they are being manned by substantial steel bridges, manu- The Spaniard, although steward of the factured by American companies in Manila, colony, did not predominate in business. He was too much a gentleman to rush in as fast as the resources of each province will permit. To preserve the new roads the where the British, the Germans, the Swiss, use of cart wheels, in some provinces, hav- the Italians, and the French wanted to ing tires less than three inches wide is pro- tread. But it was not long—about the time our volunteers began to be mustered hibited. out—before we Americans commenced a To be continued. TH E M1D-PACIFIC

In Hawaii, the Marquesans, and in Tahiti the houses were much alike.

Whether the Tahitians carried their architecture to Hawaii or vice versa may be hard to determine, but the similarity is there. When the Tahitians came to Kauai.

Marquesan and Tahit'anian Homes With quotations from Captain Cook's Diary.

By W. T. BRIGHAN, A.M., Sc.D. •

HE material for a study of the always .accessible, it seems well to trans- oldest habitations of the Pacific im- cribe them here. In some cases, as in T migrants must be gathered from the accounts of the Marquesan houses, it the accounts, sometimes excellent, of the would seem possible to reconstruct the old voyagers and in these we shall find homes of the fine natives who have long little change through the century these since disappeared from the beautiful val- voyagers practically cover, for the early leys where they once thronged to the Spanish and Portuguese explorers have cannibal feasts. not given sufficient definite descriptions .4 In the voyage of the Duff, the first the houses of the people they discovered. missionary expedition to the Pacific from As the good descriptions of houses are England, are given detailed accounts of scattered through accounts of voyages not the houses in Tahiti, Tonga and the

393 394 THE MID -PACIFIC

Marquesas which will be here reproduced and construction from those of the Sand- from that very interesting volume. Here wich Islanders. is an account of a Marquesan house on "Here the roofs, instead of descending the island of Santa Cristina (Tahuata) : to eaves on both sides of the ridgepole, "To convey an idea of what this and have rafters in front only, while the back all their best built houses are like, it is of the house descends perpendicularly, or only necessary to imagine one of our own in very slight inclination, from the peak of one story high with a high peaked to the ground—giving to the exterior the roof ; cut it lengthwise exactly down the appearance of an ordinary but cut length. middle, you would then have two of their wise in two. They are universally erected, houses, only built of different materials. so far as I have observed, on a platform That which we occupied was twenty-five of rough, but in many cases massive feet long and six wide, ten feet high in stone-work, from one to four feet in the back part, and but four in front ; at height, which extends two or three feet beyond the area of the house. The raf- the corners four short stakes are driven ters descend in front to a plate or timber into the earth, on which are laid hori- extending the whole length of the house, zontal pieces, and from these last to the supported by a row of thick round pillars, ground are bamboos neatly arranged in from three to five feet in height, over perpendicular order, about half an inch which the eaves project sufficiently to distant from each other; and without screen the entrance for the weather. them long blinds made with leaves are "At the peak the rafters rest on a hung, which make the inside very close similar stick of timber, supported by two and warm ; the door is about the middle or more posts, from eight to fourteen feet on the low side. They do not use the in height. The space between them is leaves of the wharra ( pandanus ) tree filled with poles of bamboo, or of the light here for roofing, as at Otaheite, but coin - wood of the hibiscus, laid parallel, two mon broad leaves, which they lay so thick or three inches apart, over which lighter as to keep the water out; but the greater sticks are placed horizontally, at regular part of their houses are miserable hovels. intervals; the whole being neatly lashed The inside furniture consisted of a large together at the points of intersection. floor mat from end to end, several large The back and ends are filled up in the calabashes, some fishing tackle, and a few same manner, and thus prepared for the spears; at one end the chief kept his orna- external covering. This is of thatch ments, which he showed to us." composed either of the leaf of the bread- A generation later the Marquesans fruit tree, the cocoanut, or palmetto, were visited by a more observant mission - Chamaerops humilis (Pritchardia Pacifica) ary, whose account of the houses, while —all of which are prepared for this pur- showing that the style remained the same, pose in different methods. The cocoanut leaves little to be desired. The Rev. C. leaf is from twelve to sixteen feet long S. Stewart, well known on these island:, and deeply feathered on either side of wrote as follows: the rib running through the middle of it. "The houses—though of very different This rib or stem is split from end to end, sizes, from twenty to one hundred feet in and the leaflets on each braided closely length, from eight to sixteen feet in together, forming a matting of that height, and from ten to fourteen and six- length, and one and a half or two feet teen in breadth—are all of one shape and in breadth. Thus prepared, they are style, and vary materially in their form placed on the rafters double, the higher THE MID- PACIFIC 395 ranges lapping over the lower in the man- ment is the same. A smooth trunk of a ner of slates and shingles. cocoanut tree extends the whole length, "The leaf of the breadfruit is two feet a foot or two from the farther side. At in length, one or more in width, and an interval of about four feet another deeply indented. It is prepared for thatch- lies parallel to it; and the space between, ing by stringing the leaves as closely as spread with grass and covered with mats, possible upon a rod of light wood, ten or constitutes the bed of the whole family twelve feet long and half an inch in and household—the innermost log form- diameter, through a slit made in the ing a general pillow, and the second a stem of each leaf ; it is then attached to support for the lower limbs, which extend the roof and sides in the same manner as over it. The rest of the area is a paved the cocoanut, and forms a more durable floor—a foot or two above the platform and better thatch. without — upon which they partake of "But the palmetto affords the most val- their meals and perfom their indoor work. ued covering, and that most used—es- "Calabashes of food and water—wood- pecially for the roof—wherever found in en bowls and trays—some stone adzes sufficient abundance. Its fan-like leaves with other rude implements—numerous are fastened one by one, with their cen- spears and war-clubs—and a few muskets ters about a foot from each other, upon sticking in the thatch — constituted the long, split pieces of the hibiscus, which furniture of the establishment." are then ranged upon the roof, sixteen Cook speaks of the Marquesan houses or eighteen inches apart, and, thus dis- that he saw at Tahuata in by no means posed, lap considerably every way, over so eulogistic a tone. He says: each other. All these kinds of thatch, "Their dwellings are in the valleys and instead of becoming dark and sunburnt, on the sides of the hills, near their plan- like the grass of the Sandwich Islands tations. They are built after the same huts, bleach beautifully ; and when seen manner as at Otaheite; but are much at a distance, gleam among the groves, in meaner, and covered only with the leaves the brightness of the day, like neatly of the bread tree. The most of them whitened cottages in our own country. are built on a square, or oblong, pave- "The fronts of the habitations are sel- ment of stone raised some height above dom thatched. Sometimes they are en- the level of the ground. They likewise tirely open ; in which case the timber have such pavements near their houses, supporting the roof, and the pillars be- on which they sit to eat and amuse them- neath, are generally hewn and ornamen- selves." ted by braids of sennit of various colors, Not a word about the most marked pe- white, black, yellow, etc., tied on in culiarity of the last description — the horizontal stripes, in diamonds or in halved form of the house. This is the checks, in a pretty and fanciful manner. more remarkable as Cook was usually In most of the houses, however, the front quick to notice any strange thing, and is composed of bamboos, lashed hori- this manner of building he found nowhere zontally to the pillars, at intervals of an else in the Pacific. inch or two, or in attice-work, for the SOCIETY ISLANDS, TAHITI admission of light; in which case there From the savage and warlike Marque- is a small door in the middle, furnished san we turn to the indolent, pleasure- with a shutter, in a slide, to be closed or loving Tahitian. The one a cannibal, opened at pleasure. the other loving his fellows in a different "In every house the internal arrange- way. Cook had more time to study the 396 THE MID-PACIFIC

Tahitians, and he certainly gives us a were without walls, but this is only to pleasant picture: , be understood in general, for many of "The houses or dwellings of these peo- them are walled with wickering, but not ples are admirably calculated for the con- so close but to admit a free circulation tinual warmth of the climate; they do not of air. The mats which serve them to build them in towns or villages, but sep- sit upon in the daytime are also their a-ate each from the other, and always in beds in the night, and the clothes they the woods, and are without walls, so that wear in the day serve for covering, a the air, cooled by the shade of the trees, little wood stool, block of wood or bundle has free access in whatever direction it of cloth for a pillow. Besides these com- happens to blow. No country can boast mon houses there are others much larger, of a more delightful walk than this; the two hundred feet long and upwards, whole plains where the natives reside are thirty broad and twenty in height. There covered with groves of bread fruit and are generally two or three of these in cocoanut tres, without Underwood, and every district, and seemed not only built intersected in all directions by the paths for the accommodation of the principal which go from house to house, so that people, but common to all the inhabi- nothing can be more grateful in a climate tants of that district, and raised and kept where the sun hath so powerful an in- up by their joint labor; these are always fluence. They are generally built in an without walls, and have generally a large oblong square, the roofs are supported by area on one side neatly enclosed with low three rows of pillars or posts, and neatly pallisades, etc." covered with thatch made of palm leaves. With Cook was the young artist Park- A middle-sized house is about twenty-four inson (who did not live to complete the feet by twelve, extreme heighth about voyage) and he gives us the picture of a eight or nine, and heighth of the eaves house of a Tahitian chief which is so three and a half or four. The floors are remarkable a deviation from Polynesian covered some inches deep with hay, upon domestic architecture that, were it not which, here and there, lay mats for the for his accuracy of draughtsmanship in convenience of sitting down; few houses other things, might be treated as a crea- have more than one stool, which is used ture of his imagination. He gives no only by the master of the family. description, but the drawing shows clearly "In their houses are no rooms or parti- the outside of a house with a barrel- tions, but they all huddle and sleep to- vaulted roof. The framing seems to be gether; yet in this they generally observe on the outside and the thatch within. some order, the married people laying by themselves, and the unmarried each sex Parkinson, in his Journal, says: "Ta- otahau's house is one hundred and twenty by themselves, at some distance from yards long and twenty yards broad; the each other. Many of the Eares or chiefs roof is supported by twenty posts, each are more private, having small movable nineteen feet high." houses in which they sleep, man and wife, which, when they go by water from The drawing shows a smaller room ar place to place, are tied upon their ca- alcove adoining this house with the barrel- noes; these have walls made of cocoanut vaulted roof, and evidently opening out leaves, etc. I have said that the houses of the main room.

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Newest home of the oldest newspaper of the Pacific. Offices and print shop of the Pacific Commercial Advertiser, founded 1856, at 217 South King Street, Honolulu, T. H.--The morning newspaper.

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Well-Founded ROOM Stales Governor ROOM! About Mak. Foil Reply From Birerta Awaited in That W. G. inures 'Waikiki ing President of Hoard of Washington Before Further Develop- Pa fly IS Site Health Appantment ments—Vote of Confidence in NEW CHIEF EXECUTIVE President Blocked in Roam 8. H. HERTSCHE WILL GO . . TO MAINLAND ON DETAILS MAY MAKE SELECTION Former Manager of Local Law May Compd laCualbC111 to Houses Admits he Has Plan Vacate Office Within the to Can for Tourists Next Few Hours

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MAKE PLATFORM BELAY DITTO . NGTOn MAY BE NEEDED BAD JUDGMENT • The Honolulu Star-Bulletin, Hawaii's evening newspaper with the largest circulation of any periodical in the Territory. 2 THE MID-PACIFIC

Honolulu from the Trolley Car

Surfriding as Seen From the Cars of the Rapid Transit Company. You may take the electric tram as you beautiful mountain valleys behind Hono- step off of the steamer in Honolulu, and lulu, or you may transfer to Kaimuki for five cents ride for hours—if you wish on the heights behind Diamond Head, to take transfers—to almost every part which is now a great fortress ; in fact, of this wondrously beautiful city and its the entire day may be spent with profit suburbs. on the car lines. At Waikiki often may There appeared in the Mid-Pacific be seen from the cars men and boys dis- Magazine for January, 1915, an article porting themselves on their surfboards, telling of a hundred sights to be seen as they come in standing before the from the street cars. waves on these little bits of wood. At one end of the King street car line The cars in Honolulu are all open, for is Fort Shafter, on a commanding hill, the temperature never goes below 68 from which may be seen the cane lands and degrees, nor does it rise above 85 de- rice fields, stretching to Pearl Harbor in grees, and there is always a gentle trade the distance. Before reaching Fort Shafter wind stirring. is the Bishop Museum, having the most re- When Honolulu was ready for her markable Polynesian collection in the world. electric tram system, the Honolulu Rapid Transit & Land Co. completed the most At the other end of the line is Kapiolani perfect system of its kind in the world, Park, a beautiful tropical garden, in which and it is always a delight to ride smooth- is located the famous aquarium of Hawai- ly over its lines. ian fishes, rivaled only by the aquarium in It is but -twenty minutes by car to Naples. Waikiki beach and but five minutes Transfer are given to branch lines longer, by the same car, to the wonderful penetrating :several of he wonderfully aquarium in Kapiolani Park. THE MID-PACIFIC 3

OAHU DAHU f AromaStorole Square Miles 598 HONOLUP.b NORMAL SE.4.4001. Lenleh of Island % Miles SC.ILL Or 1111.[S Breadth of Island 2 5 Mike5 14,, hc.satc,,,t■ofalt kciali.ii,030 Ft PREP' to.D An0 COPWOHTCD BY FhpulttitiOn over 60,000 People WILLIS T. POPE. Distance from Coldorma 205 lICS Dotoacc from Japan 3,000 Mites 1..kinee trc nAlstra.114 ipMrles Covet-lomat Road around Island first-elass Railroad 5aten 51.or Crop for 007, I pArt's ions,

KAtiEutir DAY

DWNOND MLA.,

The Island of Oahu, more than half the size of Rhode Island, may be motored around in a day with stops at .Coral Gardens, Waiahole Tavern, Hauula Hotel, Haleiwa and the Wahiawa Hotel. There are no more delightful outings resort is on high land near the sea, and in the world than those from Honolulu to but forty minutes' walk from Waiahole the "Round Oahu" resorts. Automobiles Tunnel and the trail over the mountains. and auto-busses make daily trips to and There is a swimming pool on the grounds from the delightful hotels on the seashore of the Waiahole Tavern, phone 0.554. and in the mountains. On Sundays the big busses of the Island Thirty-one miles from Honolulu, nes- Sightseeing Company leave from the Pan- tled at the foot of the mountains, but on Pacific corner, Fort and Merchant Streets, the sea, is Hauula Hotel, rates $3.00 a for round-the-island trips and runs to the day; chicken dinner at midday, $1.25. hotel resorts of Oahu. These busses may Less than three miles away are the Sacred also be engaged at very reasonable rates for Falls of Kaliuwaa Canyon. The hotel is parties of from 20 to 30 passengers. The also on the line of the railway; the usual Trail and Mountain Club, phone is 2989, stopping place at lunch time of the round- Gr a call at the Pan-Pacific Club rooms, cor- the-island parties. Phone White 0782. ner Fort and Merchant streets, phone con- Thirty miles from Honolulu by auto, nection with all the round-the-island hotels. fifty-six miles by rail, is the Haleiwa Hotel, Going around the island, over the Pali, $3.50 a day, lunch $1.00. Phone Blue 0932. just twelve miles or an hour from Hono- lulu is Kaneohe Bay and Coral Gardens In the center of the pineapple district, Hotel, $3.00 a day, phone Blue 612. Noon between two mountain ranges and 1000 dinner, $1.00. Trip in glass-bottom boat feet above the sea is the Wahiawa Hotel, to the wonderful Coral Gardens, 50 cents. twenty miles from Honolulu, an hour's Rates at the Coral Garden per week, run over good roads. Good swimming and $17.50 with splendid fishing and swim- wonderful bass fishing, with ideal possible ming as well as good living. tramps in the mountains. Rates $2.50 a Six miles further is Waiahole Tavern, day, $15.00 a week, lunches 50 cents. $3.00 a day; lunches, 75 cents. This ideal Phone Blue 0393.

4 THE MID-PACIFIC

Among the Hawaiian Islands I I

Map by courtesy of the Inter-Island Straw Navigation Company.

HAWAIIAN ISLAND S Scale / c h = 2a4000 Fur 4fq Cogrpho' fa- Me /loom/ /9-0/ bas iYea ey Ne.rfon /90'. "'"OAHU Se-o/c in Able .4iaver a 5 >a ea NI et6wea.4e MOLOKAI Atamtpaz4

KAHOOLAWE

The Island of Hawaii is about the size of the State of Connecticut ; the area of all the islands is about two-thirds that of Belgium. STEAM SHIP SERVICE. THE KAUAI CANYONS From Honolulu, on the Island of Oahu, At 5:15 P. M. every Tuesday there is to and from the Island of Maui, there is a large boat ( S. S. "Kinau") leaving almost daily service, either by way of Honolulu for Kauai ports, a night's ride, Kahului on the lee side of Maui, or on the and on the return leaving Waimea, Kauai, windward side, at Lahaina, there being at 10 A. M. Saturdays, affording oppor- splendid auto services between the two. tunity for a visit to the famous canyons Twice a week there are sailings from of Kauai and the Barking Sands. Fare Honolulu for the Big Island of Hawaii. each way $6. The "W. G. Hall," a Communication between the islands of smaller steamer, leaves Honolulu every Hawaii is maintained by the splendid and Thursday at 5 P. M. Returning leaves frequent steamers of the Inter-Island Nawiliwili, Kauai, every Tuesday at Steam Navigation Co. Ltd. 5 P. M. THE HALEAKALA TRIP. THE VOLCANO OF KILAUEA. The flagship of the Inter-Island fleet Mondays and Fridays there is a boat leaves Honolulu every Wednesday and leaving Honolulu for Kahului, Maui, at Saturday for Hilo on the Island of Hawaii, 5:00 in the afternoon—fare $6 each way, from whence a visit to Kilauea is made, a pleasant night's ride, and from Kahului and from whence a tour of the largest of on Wednesday arid Saturday afternoons the Hawaiian Islands may be begun. Fare the same steamer (S. S. "Claudine") sails to Hilo, each way, $12.50; by rail and for Honolulu . This is the most conven- auto to volcano, about $5.00 return ; rates ient boat for trips to Haleakala and the at Volcano House, about $6 a day. famous Koolau Ditch Trail. The Mon- The main offices of the Inter-Island day boat from Honolulu touches at many Steam Navigation Co., Ltd., are on Queen Maui ports. Street, Honolulu ; phone No. 4941. THE MID-PACIFIC 5 The Island of Maui

Map by courtesy of Alexander E.,' Baldwin, Ltd.

1-10NOLULIJ NORMAL SOHO

fPAREA AND COP14,;,, W1 LW T pal

MAUI Area in Statute Ssuare tomes 7x6 Length 4811)1es. Bteatith 3o Mile s Highest Devatton la,o3 Feet 1...argest Extinct Crater to the ior{ft Popuiation aver 4.5.o pit,tance from tioriokda 7 & liven Supr n—tatt,,Tt r crop for 39,q

The firm of Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., The Home Insurance Co. of New York, (known by everyone as "A. & B.") is The New Zealand Insurance Co., looked upon as one of the most progressive General A. F. & L. Assurance Corpor- American corporations in Hawaii. ation, Alexander & Baldwin, Ltd., are agents German Alliance Insurance Association, for the largest sugar plantation of the Ha- Switzerland Marine Insurance Co., Ltd. waiian Islands and second largest in the The offices of this large and progressive world, namely, the Hawaiian Commercial firm, all of whom are staunch supporters of and Sugar Company at Puunene, Maui. the Pan-Pacific and other movements which They are also agents for many other plan- are for the good of Hawaii, are as follows: tations and concerns of the Islands, among J. P. Cooke President which are the Haiku Sugar Company, Paia W. M. Alexander First Vice-Pres. Plantation, Maui Agricultural Company, J. R. Galt Second Vice-Pres. Hawaiian Sugar Company, McBryde Sugar Company, Ltd., Kahului Railroad Com- W. 0. Smith Third Vice-Pres. pany, Kauai Railroad Company, Ltd., John Waterhouse Treasurer IJonolua Ranch. John Guild Secretary This firm ships a larger proportion of the With H. A. Baldwin, F. C. Atherton, A. total sugar crop of the Hawaiian Islands L. Castle and C. R. Hemenway as addi- than any other agency. tional directors. In addition to their extensive sugar plan- Besides the home office in the Stangen- tations, they are also agents for the follow- wald Building, Honolulu, Alexander & ing well-known and strong insurance com- Baldwin, Ltd., maintain extensive offices in panies: Seattle, in the Melhorn Building; in New Springfield Fire & Marine Ins. Co., York at 82 Wall St., and in the Alaska American Central Insurance Co., Commercial Building, San Francisco. 6 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Home Building in Honolulu of H. Hackfeld & Co., Ltd., Plantation Agents, Wholesale Merchants and Agents for the American-Hawaiian, and all the principal Atlantic S. S. Lines. THE MID-PACIFIC 7

Map by courtesy of the Pacific Guano & Fertilizer Co.

HAWAI I 6A3,1.15144. 4

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I'.'■;7.7,2'

The Island of Hawaii is about twice the size of Delaware.

The soil of Hawaii is of a character that fertilizer. It gets sulphate of ammonia requires fertilization to a great extent. from England, nitrates from Chile, and When one speaks of the fertilizer business potash salts from Germany, while tons of of Hawaii, he speaks of the Pacific Guano sulphur are brought direct from Japan to and Fertilizer Co. The majority of the the works. It costs, ordinarily, fifty dollars sugar and pineapple plantations are sup- an acre to fertilize pineapple lands, unless it plied by this company. A very large con- is the fertilizer from the Pacific Guano and cern today, the Pacific Fertilizer and Guano Fertilizer Co. that is used, when the ex- Co. is the outgrowth of a small industry pense is cut in half. If you need fertilizer which followed the discovery of rich guano for your garden or your plantation, call up deposits on Laysan Island. These deposits Phone No. 1585, and the Pacific Fertilizer have been so depleted that the company now and Guano Co. will gladly advise you, mak- secures its supply from other Pacific islands, ing a chemical analysis of the soil, if neces- and at the same time it is a large importer sary, and mixing the fertilizer in accord of other articles used in the manufacture of with the demands of the soil.

8 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Island of Kauai

TO SAN FRANCISCO AND JAPAN. The Matson Steam Navigation Co., maintaining the premier ferry service be- tween Honolulu and San Francisco, and the Toyo Kishen Kaisha, maintaining pa- VICOIJeF latial ocean greyhound service between San StArT Francisco and the Far East via Honolulu, ("/ A 7C have their Hawaiian agencies with Castle & YOKOHAMA • Cooke, Ltd. pf., IAN „ I 0 ..00144 ti5( This, one of the oldest firms in Hono- HONGKONG 496/ , , • lulu, occupies a spacious building at the PHIL/PP/NE 4 7 8° corner of Fort and Merchant streets, Hono- IS, 0, 3 plA N lulu. The ground floor is used as local 69- passenger and freight offices of the Toyo 4 41 OCEAN Kisen Kaisha and of the Matson Steam % Navigation Company. The adjoining of- SAMOA 41 fices are used by the firm for their busi-

/esk C7 ness as sugar factors and insurance agents. Phone 1251. ucircAroo SYDNE_Y isr Castle & Cooke, Ltd., act as agents for r t.,,\" jooar,oon many of the plantations throughout Ha- —of , waii, and here may be secured much varied ,Ilawaz;art 01 islands information. Here also the tourist may se- cure in the folder racks, booklets and pam- phlets descriptive of almost every part of the great ocean. Maps by courtesJ of Castle & Cooke, Ltd.

51-7 Mlles Ab„ss San:, F, w 98 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE LIGHTING OF HONOLULU. In Honolulu the outlying districts are rapidly becoming connected with the gas system of mains. The modern gas mantles now make lighting by gas the most bril- liant and satisfying of all methods; and this at a minimum cost. In fact, so cheap is gas in Honolulu that it is used very ex- tensively for cooking. The cost averages a dollar for a thousand feet. The Honolulu Gas Company maintains extensive exhibition rooms at the corner of Alakea and Beretania streets, where the cars of two sections pass the doors, and where every new appliance in gas fixtures for lighting or cooking purposes may be studied, or members of the office force will explain their advantages. The latest gas appliance invention does the family washing automatically and should be seen at the Alakea Street exhibition rooms. 10 THE MID-PACIFIC

THE BUILDERS OF HONOLULU. Honolulu still relies for building ma- terial on the mainland. For many years the firm of Lewers & Cooke maintained its own line of clipper schooners that brought down lumber from Puget Sound with which to "build Hawaii." Today this firm occupies its own spacious block on King Street, where every necessity need- ed for building the home is supplied. In fact, often it is this firm that guarantees the contractor, and also assures the owner that his house will be well built and com- pleted on time. Things are done on a large scale in Hawaii; so it is that one firm IMINalt MOW undertakes to supply material from the breaking of ground until the last coat of paint is put on the completed building. A spacious and splendidly equipped hardware

RUBEROID ROOFMO department is one of the features of Lewers & Cooke's establishment.

Za - Ins;••■■•■iti THE MID-PACIFIC 11

•■■■•••-•1••••••■■■••■■••■•••••••■••1111. Electric Lighting in Honolulu

The general offices on King Street.

THE HAWAIIAN ELECTRIC CO. Bred horse power, with another two hun- dred and fifty horse power to the Federal In Honolulu electricity costs ten cents Wireless Station fifteen miles distant, be- per kilowatt, for the first two kilowatts sides current for lighting all private resi- per month per lamp, and six cents dences in Honolulu, as well as for operat- thereafter. From the Hawaiian Electric ing its own extensive ice plant. A line is Company plant, power is furnished to the now being built to furnish linght and power pineapple canneries (the largest canneries to the great army post at Schofield Bar- in the world) to the extent of seven hun- racks, twenty miles distant from Honolulu.

The power house and ice plant. 12 THE MID-PACIFIC

TRVST (A).. LTD.

THE TRUST CO. IN HAWAII. Honolulu was one of the first cities to adopt the idea of the Trust Company. In 1852 Henry Waterhouse began business in Honolulu, and just fifty years later the name of his firm was changed to the "Henry Waterhouse Trust Company" and this very successful concern continues to occupy the ground floor of the Campbell Block on A 7e oft and Merchant streets. Here was born the first commercial wireless system in the world—that of Hawaii. There are spacious vaults for valuable papers, insur- ance departments, real estate features, and every department common to the up-to-date Trust Company. The Company is also a member of the Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. Located in the heart of the business cen- ter of Honolulu, here stock and bonds are exchanged, insurance is issued and every kind of real estate handled, and here, too, is the home of the Kaimuki Land Co., and the agency for the Volcano House at the Crater of Kilauea.

THE MID-PACIFIC 13

The Canon, Neill Building, Honolulu. Also the home of the General Electric Co. in Hawaii.

Honolulu is known around the world Half a century is an age in the life of for the manufacture of sugar mill ma- Honolulu. The first frame building is not chinery. Much of this is made by Catton, one hundred years old, and the first hard- Neill & Co., Ltd., Engineers, who build ware store, that of E. 0. Hall & Son, Ltd., and erect sugar mill machinery. The was not founded until the year 1850, but works are on South Street, Honolulu, while since then, on the commanding corner of the offices and salesrooms are located in a Fort and King streets, it has remained the new concrete building on Alakea and Queen premier hardware concern in Hawaii. The streets, erected recently for this purpose. entire three-story building is taken up Here are seen the displays of the General with extensive displays of every kind of Electric Co., of which Catton, Neill & hardware. One floor, however, is given Co., Ltd., are Hawaiian agents, as well as over to crockery and kitchen utensils, while for the leading gas engines, water wheels, in the basement even a ship might be fitted steam plows, pumps, condensers and tools out with its hardware, cordage, and roping manufactured in the United States. This needs. This company is also agent for the is one of the oldest engineering firms in Sherwin-Williams house paints and repre- Hawaii. sents many mainland hardware firms.

E. 0. Hall & Son Building, Fort and King streets. 1? 14 THE MID-PACIFIC

Occupying one of the most prominent the residents of the islands and of tourists. corners in the shopping district of Honolulu Connected with the store is an up-to-date the Regal Shoe Store, at the corner of Fort repair shop, where with the most modern and Hotel streets, is a distinct credit to the machinery operated by skilled workmen, re- American progress in these islands. Mr. pairs are made in the shortest time con- George A. Brown, the manager of the Regal sistent with good work. Visitors are in- Shoe Store, is a thorough shoeman and the vited to inspect the stock of famous shoes stock in his store has been carefully selected always carried in latest styles at the Regal with a view of meeting the requirements of Shoe Store.

The great women's dry goods department store of B. F. Ehlers & Company, occupies half of the main block on Fort Street. It is the largest and most complete estab- lishment of its kind in Honolulu, and here every kind of dry goods may be found. THE MID-PACIFIC 15

HOME FERTILIZING. For the small planter this company makes The Hawaiian Fertilizer Company stores special fertilizers, and the gardens of Hono- its fertilizers in the largest concrete ware- lulu are kept beautiful by the use of a house west of the Rockies. The works of special lawn fertilizer made by this com- this company cover several acres near Hono- pany. Fertilizing alone has made Hawaii lulu. The ingredients are purchased in the garden of the Pacific. shipload lots, and the formulas adopted by H. F. Wichman & Company's jewelry the different plantations for their fertilizers establishment on Fort Street, is one of are made up at the works of the Hawaiian Honolulu's show places. The gold and sil- Fertilizer Company. Their chemists ana- verware display is well worth a morning's lyze the soils and suggest the formulas. study.

Hawaii's leading jewelry establishment 1111•111'

16 THE MID-PACIFIC

The Y. M. C. A. building in Honolulu alleys, gymnasium halls, indoor racing has become the model for all semi-tropical tracks, games halls, and all the attractions Y. M. C. A. buildings. It was designed by that athletic men enjoy. Ripley & Davis and erected by the Pacific In the evenings the many class rooms are Engineering Company. used by students of several nationalities. In this building is an up-to-date cafeteria, The Pacific Engineering Company that unexcelled in the city, and open to visiting erected the Honolulu Y. M. C. A. building Y. M. C. A. members. There is also a grea. also erected steel bridges for the Kahului cement swimming pool in the open court Railway on the Island of Maui, and those filled from its own artesian well. of the Hilo Railway on the Island of There are dormitories for men, bowling Hawaii.

A MODERN TRUST COMPANY. ment and to the unbounded confidence re- The'- Trent Trust Co., Ltd., organized posed in them by the people whom they in 1907 with a paid-in capital of $50,000, serve. The Trust Company acts as Ex: now has $158,000 in cash capital and earn- ecutor and Manager of Estates, Fiduciary ed surplus, and gross assets of $505,000. Agent, and as Attorney and Agent of non- The Mutual Building & Loan Society, or- residents and others needing such service. ganized and managed by the same people, Its offices are centers of activity in real has assets in excess of $259,000. The estate, rent, insurance and investment cir- splendid growth of these concerns has been cles. The Company is a member of the due to careful and conservative manage- Honolulu Stock and Bond Exchange. THE GARDEN AND PLAY Tasmania GROUND OF AUSTRALIA •

••■■••■•■••■•••••••••■•■■•••■■••••■•••••••••■••■■■••••■••■• ••■••••••■■■■•■■••■•••••••••••I

Lake Marion and Du Gane Mountains, Tasmania.

Tasmania is one of the finest tourist re- ital,—one of the most beautiful cities in the sorts in the southern hemisphere, but ten world—is the headquarters of the Tasman- hours' run from the Australian mainland. ian Government Tourist Department; and The large steamers plying between Vic- the Bureau will arrange for transport of the toria and New Zealand call at Hobart visitor to any part of the island. A shilling both ways, and there is a regular service trip to a local resort is not to small for the from Sydney to Hobart. Between Launce- Government Bureau to handle, neither is 4 ston and Melbourne the fastest turbine tour of the whole island too big. Travel steamer in Australia runs thrice weekly. coupons are issued including both fares and Tasmania is a land of rivers, lakes, and accommodation if desired. mountains, and it is a veritable tourists' In Hobart and in other Tasmanian cen- paradise. It is also a prolific orchard ters there are local Tourist Associations. country and has some of the finest fruit In Launceston the Northern Tasmania growing tracks in the world. The climate Tourist Association has splendid offices. is cooler than the rest of Australia. The Tasmanian Government has an up- The angling is one of the greatest at- to-date office in Melbourne, at 59 William tractions of the island. The lakes and rivers Street, next door to the New Zealand Gov- are nearly all stocked with imported trout, ernment office, where guidebooks, tickets, which grow to weights not reached by other and information can be produced. parts of Australia. The Tasmanian Gov- For detailed information regarding Tas- ernment-issue a special illustrated handbook mania, either as to travel or settlement, dealing with angling. enquirers should write to Mr. E. T. Em- The Tasmanian Government deals di- mett, the Director of the Tasmanian Govt. rectly with the tourist. Hobart, the cap- Tourist Dept., Hobart, Tasmania. 4.mmommoNmmwmmmulmwmwmAmmwmmwmmmummwmamtmgmwmommommommmmwommusy

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The picturesque Oahu. Railway. lucre are daily trains from Honolulu to the beautiful Haleiwa Hotel, and to Leilehua. Also combined auto and rail trips around the island through the Wahiawa pineapple fields, with a stay at Haleiwa. $io covers all expenses of this two-day trip.

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PRINTED HY HONOLULU STAR BULLETIN. MERCHANT ST.