The Story of Grapefruit (Citrus Paradisi)

% . ^^ • • i The Story of Grapefruit (citrus paradisi)

C- A ^ rmerly known as "The Forbidden Fruit," or " The Fruit of the Garden of Eden" with special reference to its cultivation and marketing under Australian conditions.

Tretfrotn which priie-wifimni ftuU it exhibiltd ytar ajUr at M^hoarne Roycl Shaw. Fmil from thxi groie hat ac^mrfJ a warU'wiJe Mluta/icn and hat senJ tu /or Q/!M as the Sudan.

Issued by Victorian Central Citrus Association Pty. Ltd. 422 Collins Street, Melbourne, C.I, Victoria. THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

The Stori^ of Qrapefruit

INDEX TO CONTENTS

Page Acknowledgments ,. 28 Grapefruit cup No. 3 . 23 Budding grapefruit ., 9 Grapefruit frappe 26 Citrons ., 5 Grapefruit %villi sherry 23 Consumption in U.S.A. and U.K. .. 7 Grapefruit a la russe 25 Duncan grapefruit ., 7 Grapefruit mousse 25 Early history .. 4 Jelly—Grapefruit 24 Florida. First planting in .. .. 7 Maramalade. Grapefruit. 1, 2 and . 27 " Forbidden Fruit .. 4,6 Orange and grapefruit salad 24 Grades, " Standard " and " Plain " II Peel, Candied grapefruit.. 27 Juice content of grapefruit .. .. 11 Pie, Delicious grapefruit., 24 Marketing period in Australia .. 10 Pineapple, orange and grapefruit salac 23 Marsh seedless grapefruit .. .. 8 Preserve, Grapefruit 27 Medicinal value of grapefruit 17 Punch. Grapefruit 26 Origin of citrus fruits .. 5 Salads 23 Packing and grading .. 10 Sweets 24 Pink-fleshed grapefruit .. 8 Sweets. Chilled 23 Pomeloes .. 6 Serving grapefruit 18-22 Poorman oranges .. 6 Breakfast service 22 Production in U.S.A. .. 7 Cocktails and salads, For 22 Recipes 23-27 Informal service 22 Banana grapefruit .. 26 Marked grapefruit 20 Bottled Grapefruit .. 27 Scarred grapefruit 20 < bandied grapefruit peel .. .. 27 Serving with rind 18 C.elery and grapefruit salad ,. 23 Small grapefruit 22 ('hilled sweets ,. 23 Seville oranges .. 5 (locktails ,. 23 Shaddock 4.5 (kicktails, Wholefruil .. 23 Sizes and weights 14 Conserves and candies .. 27 Sporting lendencv of citrus fruits 5 Drinks .. 26 Thompson pink-fleshed grapefruit 8 Fritters, Grapefruit .. 25 Tourist spread demand 4 Grapefruit cup No. I .. 23 Wheeney grapefruit 8 Grapefruit cup No. 2 . 23 West Indies, Origin in 6 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

FOREWORD

By HAROLD W. CLAPP,

Chaimun of ike Victorian Railways Commissioners.

^^GHE following story of grapefruit and its increasing importance in the national regimen is most effectively told, and I feel sure that every line will be eagerly read. Grapefruit has a special sigriificance as a food and restorative, It is strong in Vitamin " C "—the vitamin which is frequently cooked out of our everyday meals. It is further an excellent regu- lator, dispersing the acids of dyspepsia and toning up the system in a remark- able way. Its vitality value is shown in the innumerable instances in which it has been successfully adopted by invalids and in those indescribable cases of debility that we call " run down." The attractiveness of the fruit, especially to children, lies in its great juiciness and in its pleasing flavour. Properly prepared, as clearly set forth in the following pages, grapefruit is a rich refreshment. If it were promoted to the premier position in the everyday breakfast it would be responsible, 1 believe, for a substantial improvement in the national energy and health.

It is for these reasons that I cordially commend this little book to all Australians. Acquire the grapefruit habit. Improve your health by includ- ing this fruit in your daily diet and thus assist a valuable Australian industry.

spencer Slreet, Melhowne, August. 1937. THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT The Story of Grapefruit ( Citrus paradui) • Formerly known as " The Fruit of the Garden of Eden," or "The Forbidden Fruit," with special reference to its cultivation and marketing under Australian conditions.

EARLY HISTORY AND DEVELOPMENT

rapefruit is so called, not known as pomelo, but as this name G had already been applied to the because of any resemblance shaddock and to types mtermediate in flavour to grapes, but be- between the shaddock and the smooth- cause the trees bear their fruit in skinned, sweet Seville, the descriptive title has come into general use to distinguish the fruit of the Citrus paradisi (or, as it is called by some writers, C. maxima, var uvacarpa) from the other pomelo types.

Grapefruit, apart from having been confused under its former name with the shaddock, was once known as the " Forbidden Fruit " — the Fruit of the Garden of Eden. What- ever romantic history its grateful connoisseurs might attribute to it, there IS no justification for suggest- ing that this IS the fruit with which Eve tempted Adam. For one reason, the taste for grapefruit is an acquired one, and our unsophisti- cated first parents were not likely to have forsaken their earthly para- dise for the subtly-blended, bitter- A elutfer oI srap^nat sweet flavour of the grapefruit. A groups or clusters, sornetimes so stronger reason, however, is that thickly that they suggest berries— neither grapefruit, nor even oranges, large ones, of course—on a bunch are likely to have been growing in of grapes. Only in recent years, has the Garden of Eden. The earliest this fruit been generally known under known identifiable reference to the its present name. It was formerly cultivation of citrus fruits, with thq THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

possible exception of citrons (C. from those under which they were medic a), is little more than 2,000 originally grown, different types have yeara old. whereas figs, apples, ap- appeared owing to " sporting " ten- pricots, dates, bananas and other dency of this species. Lemons, and fruits are all on record as having sour (or Seville) oranges were in- been grown more than 4,000 years troduced to the Mediterranean coun- ago. Nevertheless the botanical name tries by the Arabs between the of grapefruit, Cilrus parodist, per- seventh and the eleventh centuries, petuates the flattering title given and sweet oranges (C. sinesis) were to it on its first recorded appearance brought back from India by Portu- in the West Indies less than 200 years gese navigators in the late fifteenth ago. century. The pomeloes—sfiaddocks,

Grafftfruit ani vines in Ihe MiUvra districf—fwo-u^-otd frees et Merhein.

Grapefruit is the newest member grapefruit and allied types—appear of the citrus family, just as the citron to have made their way to the Western is the oldest. Citrus fruits, as we world by more gradual stages. Origi- know them, originated in India, China nating probably in Southern China, and Cochin China, probably from they spread to the Malay Archi- a common Indian parent. With the pelago, undergomg some changes in spread of their cultivation, under the transition. The Shaddock (C. different conditions of soil and climate dKumcna) owes its name to the captain THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT of an East India mercKantman who, which appears to be a cross between on a voyage from India to England, a sweet Seville and a shaddock or brought the seeds of this and other grapefruit, and which is identical varieties to the Island of Barbados. with the variety grown m New It is suggested by some authorities Zealand as grapefruit. that the word pomelo was derived from the village of Pompelmousses, in ORIGIN IN WEST INDIES. Mauritius, where the Dutch first The first reference to grapefruit, found the shaddock growing. The as distinct from the shaddock or the word has been spelled variously pomelo, was in the middle of the

Head iingalion dil^f rom which a grove is ^ireclla ivalertd. pumelo, pummelo, pumalo, and po- eighteenth century when an English melo, and the earlier horticultural writer described the "Forbidden- writers referred to grapefruit and fruit Tree " as growing in the Island shaddocks under one or the other of Barbados. Later references were of these terms. Another suggestion more explicit, and a French writer, is that the word pomelo was a cor- in 1824, says that in the Eastern ruption of " pawmanu," the native Botanic Gardens in Jamaica he saw name for the variety which has been " a kind of shaddock whose fruit, rendered in English as ' poorman, no bigger that a large orange, hung or poorman s orange, a type like grapes in a bunch. To this THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

fruit the English of Jamaica have a taste for the subtle compound of given the name of ' Forbidden- bitter-sweet flavours that distinguish fruit,' or smaller shaddock." Whether grapefruit from all other citrus fruits. the grapefruit of the West Indies To meet this returned tourist demand, was of the same type as the pomeloes shipments of grapefruit were made that are still grown in China today in barrels from Florida to New York can only be surmised. It may be that and Philadelphia, and, according to grapefruit, as we know it, evolved Hume, the first of these shipments from the shaddock or from the in the early ISSO's netted the growers Eastern pomelo under the more half-a-dollar a barrel. The fruit suitable soil conditions of the West was, however, gradually introduced Indies, or that the change took place to a wider public, and so many con- after the seeds of the West India noisseurs came to appreciate its types were introduced to Florida. refreshing and appetising qualities Mr. H. H. Hume, in '[The Culti- that an outlet was not only found vation of Citrus Fruits," establishes for the fruit that had been previously a definite connection between what left to rot under the trees, but the is now called grapefruit and seeds increased demand and payable prices that were planted about 1809 m led to an extension of the plantings, Florida by Don Phillippe, a Spanish and to the cultivation of better types nobleman. He says that one of the and improved methods of packing grapefruit trees planted by Don and grading. From these humble Phillippe was still living in 1925 beginnings, as a result of a tourist and that two old trees in the vicinity demand, the grapefruit industry has are seedlings from the surviving grown within 50 years until Florida tree, one of them producing the alone produces some 17.5 million type that was later known as the bushels and California, Arizona and Duncan variety of grapefruit. Texas make up the total U.S.A. production to 28 million bushels. TOURISTS SPREAD DEMAND Grapefruit is now produced exten- Like the original Seville orange sively in Jamaica, Port Rico, Palestine in Spain, the limited use of this new and South Africa, as well as in all variety, coupled with the inadequate the major Australian citrus areas. market transport facilities of those Just as visitors from the Northern days, retarded its cultivation. Hume States to Florida were responsible says that even as late as from 1859 for the spread of the demand for grape- to 1895 it was referred to by a number fruit throughout the United States, of horticultural writers in terms that so American tourists extended the showed that it was still confused consumption of grapefruit to the with the shaddock. In Florida, the countries of the old world. Today fruit was considered refreshing and the United Kingdom consumes tonic, but outside that State there was more than million bushels of no demand for grapefruit until the in- grapefruit from Florida, Cali- creasing number of visitors to Florida's fornia, South Africa, the West Indies healthly climate returned to their and Palestine, representing a per northern homes after having acquired capita consumption of 2.8 lb., com- THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

pared with 10 lb. m the U.S.A. diverse conditions of soil, temperature In Australia, grapefruit production and rainfall, has shown which varieties on a commercial scale has been delayed were best suited to particular districts. by the lack of regular demand, but during the last fifteen years SEEDLESS TYPE EVOLVED. extensive plantings of improved va- The Marsh seedless grapefruit, rieties have been made in all the which constitutes the bulk of the mam citrus-growmg areas. irrigated grapefruit plantings in Cali- IMPROVEMENT IN TYPE. fornia. is not so largely grown in Florida, where it was discovered and As the production in Florida in- propagated in 1895. In Florida, creased, the same process of selec- citrus fruits are grown for the most tion of improved types, resulting from part under natural rainfall conditions, sporting or from cross-pollination, supplemented to a limited extent that had been taking place for cen- by irrigation, and some of the older turies with other citrus varieties oc- seeded types are preferred. It is curred with grapefruit. A change possible that the Marsh grapefruit in type might occur in trees planted is more adapted to the irrigated from seeds obtained from parent trees, semi-arid soils of the sub-tropical some of whose blossoms fiad been areas than are the heavily seeded cross-poll en i zed from some other types.

In Australia, experience of the different varieties confirms the view that the Marsh grapwfruit gives the best results, as regards flavour and thinness of rind, under irrigation in the areas along the Murray and Murrumbidgee Rivers, and more than 95 per cent, of the grapefruit plantings in these areas are of the Marsh variety. Although called " seedless," the Marsh may have from two to six seeds, but when this number is compared with Buddtd tiea. the 40 to 60 seeds that may be variety. More frequently, the new present in the other commercial tyf)es would be observed growing varieties it can be seen that the on a single limb of a tree whose other name is not exactly a misnomer, fruit would be true to the original The comparative absence of seeds type. Thus, pink-fleshed grapefruit makes it possible for the Marsh have been found growing on single to be held on the tree for a longer limbs of established varieties and these time than the other varieties, and have been propagated in turn. In so ensures a more extended market- the course of time, experience of ing period. Other grapefruit varie- grcwirg the different varieties under ties grown in Australia include the THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 5

Thompson, a pink-fleshed type, a and the practice of bud-grafting sport of the Marsh seedless, and enables the type to be propagated similar to it in other respects ; and with confidence that resultant trees the Whecney, a late variety, of high will conform in essentials to the juice content, which has been propa- parent tree grown under similar soil gated from a seedling planted at and climatic conditions. The bud Whceney's Creek, Kurrajong, N.S.W., knits with the cambium layer of nearly 100 years ago. the seedling tree, and in the following Grapefruit is propagated in the season it shoots and produces leaves same manner as the other citrus and small limbs. The part of the varieties. Buds taken from fruiting seedling tree above the graft may wood that have borne fruit true to then be cut off, and the young grape- to type and of recognised good fruit tree is ready for planting. quality are inserted in year-old seed- Whereas most citrus varieties take lings. Like most other fruit varieties from six to eight years before they It has been found that grapefruit come into profitable production, grape- and the other citrus fruits do not fruit under Murray Valley conditions give the best results as seedling trees. reach the profitable bearing stage Seedlings cannot be depended upon in their fourth and fifth year, and to produce trees and fruit uniform in may produce more than a bushel type and quality with the parent trees, of fruit a tree in their third year.

RK^M^IV*^^^- • - -ft-. >v'-' "I <

••Vi'i

fvTr»B it/ttefn of inigation ii gtnerallv in me Ihra/gfieul the Itrigafion areas. 10 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

imi 11;

he fact (hat in Australia land growers are able to forward citrus fruits are grown in grapefruit to Melbourne one month Tareas as far apart as Charters before the earliest of the Victorian- Towers in Queensland, and Lock- grown fruit IS ready for the market. in gton in Victoria, gives different The grapefruit marketing season maturing dates and a wider market- begins in Melbourne with the arrival ing period for the same variety. of the early Queensland fruit in Even within the one State, and some- mid-March, and for a month Queens- times in the one district, the dif- land is the only source of supply of ference of soil conditions and root Australian-grown fruit. From mid- stocks will produce a big variation April to the end of April, the first of the early Victorian-grown fruit is marketed, and from the end of May to December all the producing districts on both sides of the Murray River, in Victoria, New South Wales, and South Australia, are maintaining supplies according to market requirements- The period of heaviest supply is in June and July owing to the necessity of relieving the trees of the larger fruits, which owing to their weight, particularly on young trees, would otherwise fall to the Gratiefiuil. on dwarfing liifoJiala slock- fiehlecri fnonlhi ground. In some instances, the fruit afUi plonlins- that IS growing on the outside of in stages of maturity. Navel oranges, the lower branches is picked early in particular, are susceptible to local in the season to prevent its rubbing soil and climatic conditions, and, in on the ground or being knocked Victoria, late districts like Murrabit off with the cultivating implements. and Bamawm are marketing their During January and February sup- navel oranges two or three months plies begin to fall off and it is neces- after the early maturing groves at sary, at present, to import grapefruit, Merbein have finished. There is from the U.S.A. or Palestine, to not such a big difference in this bridge the gap between the two respect with Marsh seedless grape- seasons. fruit, as the fruit, particularly in the smaller sizes, or that borne inside PACKING AND GRADING. the tree, has the property of hanging for a long time without becoming RAPEFRUIT is generally over-mature. Climate undoubtedly packed in two main grades influences earlier maturity and Queens- by the packers on both sides THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT )l of the Murray River. TTiese grades come into contact. Although the are " standard " and " plain." They nnd of the grapefruit and other are based on the minimum require- citrus fruits is tougher and more ments of the regulations enforced resistant to^bruising than most other by the various departments of agri- fruits, any rupture of the rind causes culture, which allow a maximum a release of the oil from the tiny of 10 per cent, of rind blemishes, round cells of the rind. The escaped not due to disease, in the standard oil may stain and discolour the nnd grade, and 25 per cent, in the plain and thereby lower the grade and grade. In both grades the fruit is selling value. Further, a puncture required to be free from disease, of the rind may give entry to the and true to type. The regulations air-borne spores of blue and green provide for a special grade, which mould which cause the fruit to permits nnd markings up to 2i decay. Every care is therefore taken per cent, of the superficial area. to protect the fruit from injury, 1 n market practice there IS not a not only during the sizing process, sufficiently strong demand on the part but also during the grading and pack- of Melbourne retailers for a special ing. In the modern packing shed grade on these lines, and all the fruit all the employees handling the fruit, that is marked less than 10 per cent, at the grading table and at the of its superficial area is packed as packing bins, wear cotton gloves standard. Where, however, there is to keep their finger-nails from digging a wide range of display value repre- into the fruit. Even on the groves, sented by the standard grade the the grower who is alive to the pos- majority of the packers divide the grade sibilities of injury insists on his pickers into two, packing the fruit of better wearing gloves. shape, colour and general appear- ITRUS fruits generally must ance in printed wrappers bearing conform to the standards of the packer's name or trade-mark. C maturity as prescribed by the State Departments of Agriculture be- CARE IN HANDLING. fore they are allowed to be marketed. Like other citrus fruits, grapefruit TTie two important factors in the ma- is graded also according to size. The turity standards are a minimum grading machinery is so designed juice content for lemons and oranges as to separate the fruit of different and a maximum acid content for sizes and divert them through measur- oranges. Both oranges and lemons ing slots into the compartments, must contain at least 30 per cent, or " bins," from which they are of strained juice, although many packcd. This operation is performed of the better quality types may by means of a graduated rubber roller contain from 43 to 50 per cent, of which continues to revolve the fruit juice. until it reaches a space through which Grapefruit, even early in the it can pass to the proper size bin. season, has a much higher juice per- All the divisions in the grader are faced centage than oranges and lemons, with soft rubber to prevent any so that the minimum standard would injury to the fruit with which they not be of any use for grapefruit. \i tHE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

Other constituents of grapefruit, com- of every grower and packer who bined with its increased juice content, aspires to a favourable demand for render unnecessary the application his pack or brand. of the ordinary citrus maturity stan- In some localities the demand dards. for grapefruit is so small that the HEN the fruit is ^cked the retail fruiterers stock it only occasion- grade and count, in addition ally. While the growers' association W realises that the retailers are an to the name or trade-mark of the packer, is stencilled or stamped essential link in the distribution at one end of the case, usually on a system, it must make provision for printed label. When it arrives on satisfying the requirements of those the wholesale market, sellers and members of the public who do not buyers, know the size and nature of find themselves adequately catered the contents without the necessity for by their local greengrocers. Where, for inspecting every case. TTie vari- therefore, housewives are unable to ous packers are well known to the obtain grai>efruit locally, in the size retail trade, and most of them have or quality they desire, arrangements established a reputation for uniform can be made through the association grading and packing. Buyers, there- for grapefruit to be delivered direct, m bushel cases, and sometimes in half-cases, to their homes.

UNDER GROWER CONTROL. The majority of the grapefruit that is sent from the River Murray districts is packed by members of the Victorian Central Citrus As- sociation or affiliated associations, and IS sold by accredited wholesale agents and merchants under the supervision of the growers' representative in the market. The growers' representative not only co- ordinates the sales activities of the different wholesalers, but makes a daily inspection of the various packs as they arrive in order to satisfy

Fruil mull be uni/ormlu $ixed aitd graded ]oi iht himself that there is no falling-off Mel^ovme maiket- in the standard of packing and fore, can make their purchases with grading. He thus keeps the growers the foreknowledge that the fruit and packers advised of the condition should be of the quality and grade and value of their fruit and passes indicated by the markings on the on any comments or complaints cases. Uniformity of grading, as about the pack or quality. He also regards quality, size, shape, rind sees that adequate supplies, accord- texture and colour, is the objective ing to the volume of the crop, are THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT n maintained. The objective of the with departmental and other research growers' association is the mainten- bodies have shown that grapefruit ance of even supplies of well-graded can be stored at higher temperatures fruit at prices that ensure a fair and for longer periods than other return to the grower and that repre- citrus fruits without loss of flavour sent reasonable rates to the public. or of vitamin C content. While The association is therefore per- further research in this direction is forming a service to the public as being done, an endeavour is being well as watching the interests of made by sections of growers to its growers and of the industry prolong the marketing period on the senerally. It realises that only by lines already indicated by the research providing the service of continuity authorities. Other growers and scien- of supplies at stable prices can it tists are working on the problem

Well-lvUn nine-utcr-ulil Iru al Rtdclifls. give satisfaction to the public and of evolving types that will, under suit- increase the number of the con- able climatic and growing conditions, sumers of its fruits. mature their fruit earlier or later than The growers and their association the average production. An en- are endeavouring to bridge the gap couraging factor in their efforts in the marketing of grapefruit as would be an increase in the popu- they have done with oranges. Ex- larity of the fruit. Manufacturers, periments by scientists connected if given sufficient encouragement. 14 THE STORY OF GRAPEFl^LllT are prepared to extend the com- or between fruit of one quality and mercial canning side of their business another in mid-season. to mclude grapefruit, and so obviate Diameter Number Average Volume of the necessity for importmg high- (in to wight STRAINED priced grapefruit during the six or INCHES) BUSHEL EIACH. JUICE. eight weeks that fresh Australian- oz. oz. grown supphes are not available. 4i 38 16 6i 41 45 14 5I APPROXIMATE SIZES AND 4 53 12 WEIGHTS. 31 60 N the following table the ap- 3J 68 10 proximate weights of the various 3I 75 9 31 83 8i sizes of grapefruit are shown in 3i 96 7I relation to their diameter measure- 112 61 ment and to the number of the par- 3 126 ticular size packed to the regulation According to bushel case. These weights are larger and smaller fruit than the calculated from good standard packs range of sizes shown in the table. in mid-season, and an allowance The smaller fruit is chiefly used of 10 per cent, more or less could for culinary purposes. The chief be made for variations in weight commercial sizes are from 4i in, at the beginning and end of a season to 3i in. in diameter, or those that

fioD el Aiiii'Vtor-^ltl Irus i/i Couiiuf/i VsUsy. yie^diftg on auengt 0/ 3 J iuiWi a tnc. THE STORY OF CRArepRUIT 15 pack 45 to 73 to the bushel case, the marked fruit is almost unsaleable with the 60's and 68*3 the most while the special grade is selling at popular. 13/- and 14/- a case. This anomaly is due to the fashion for serving RIND-MARKED FRUIT. grapefruit halved " in the shell," Owing to the size and weight of but many connoisseurs prefer to serve the grapefruit in the dish, removmg the rmd before it comes to the table. This method of serving enables the economicaliy-minded housewife to utilise the cheaper marked fruit, and also the very small

A 54-(Nlci coanl. CTObefimt i • ike Tegutalioil d-HTtD bushel

rait

RAPEFRUIT POSSESSES THE lessness, and an increased ability G to work and play without fatigue ; same dietetic properties as increased weight in the case of the other citrus varieties, in obviously underweight patients ; the addition to having special virtues disappearance of mild anemias in of its own. Exhaustive tests in Eng- some cases; and the reduction of land and in the U.S.A. have shown blood pressures in others. Dr. M. T. that citrus fruits are essential to a Hanke, in " Diet and Dental Health " properly balanced diet. Despite the {published by the University of wide range of foodstuffs available to Chicago Press) says that the definite the modern community, research has improvements tbat were noted in shown that tbe standard diet, even the dental condition of patients in countries where immense sums were probably similar to those that are spent annually on food propa- were taking place in other parts of ganda, is deficient in certain sub- the body as the result of the ad- stances that are essential to good dition of the extra quantities of health. One of the most important citrus fruits to the daily diet- of these elements is vitamin C, VIEWS OF DIETETIC which, although present in most AUTHORITIES. foods and raw fruits and vegetables, Grapefruit has spccial dietetic is largely lost in the methods of properties of its own. Its combina- preparation and cooking. Experi- tion of bitter-sweet flavours gives it ments have shown that the most a definite value as an appetiser, and convenient form of adding this es- in this connection it is particularly sential vitamin to tbe dietary Is by useful in cases of loss of appetite the consumption of citrus fruits, and unsettled stomach conditions. either as fresh fruit or m juice form. Authorities on diet prescribe it, either According to tbe British standard in juice or whole form, as a means of work on the subject, citrus fruits combatting digestive and stomachic have a 3 plus vitamin C content, disorders. Instances have been quoted compared with a 1-2 plus value of relief having been given to cases of possessed by most other fruits. rheumatism through a regular con- One of the most conclusive of these sumption of grapefruit, and also of tests showed tbat the addition of other citrus fruits. In " Food and liberal quantities of citrus fruit juice to Principles of Dietetics," Hutchison the standard diet arrested gum in- and Mottram say :— flammation, reduced teeth decay, and It is not improbable also lliat the opera- increased the height and weight tion of acids or alkalies in food may of school children. Similar tests have an important bearing on gout, but a discussion on the question showed definite improvement not would lead us into a sphere of too only in gum and teeth condition, many controversial matters. At all hut also in the general health of both events, it is probably safest to allow child and adult patients. Among the allcalme foods (which include citrus fruit juice) to predominate to some the improvements noted were the extent in the diet disappearance of lassitude and nerve- THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 1?

By the term " alkaline foods," and Denta! Health," he explains :— mentioned in this extract from Hut- One child had been told that the orange chison & Mottram, is meant foods juice would render her body acid in reaction because the juice contained which after digestion and absorp- acid. This is, of course, not true tion into the blood, where various and the child was urged to continue chemical changes take place, give rise to take the citrus fruit juice. This to alkaline substances. When foods IS a question that has arisen from time to time and it might be well to are heated or incinerated to such an explain how an acid luice can in- extent that only the ash remains, crease the alkalinity of the body. this ash IS found to be alkaline, The acid, e.g.. citric acid, is burned neutral or acid in reaction and the by the body tissues to carbon dioxide and water, both of which are elimi- original food is said to be an alka- nated. The organic adds do not, line food, a neutral food, or an acid therefore, play any significant role in food ; or to be of the alkaline ash, modifying the alkaline reserve of the neutral ash, or acid ash type. body tissues. Orange and lemon juice also contain salts of sodium, potassium, Some samples of these are ;— calcium, and magnesium with organic ALKALINE, NEUTRAL, ACID. salts. These salts are converted ulti- Citrus Juice Sugar Oatmeal matelv into bicarbonates of these metals which are alkaline in reaction, Potato Vegetable Oils Flour (wheat) and. therefore, increase the alkaline Onion Aninial Fats Meat reserve of the body. Milk Eggs Dr. H. N. Featonby, permanent It is considered by various au- head of the Victorian Public Health thorities that the diets of most Department, and chairman of the people tend to contain insufficient Health Commission of Victoria, is of these alkaline foods, and too great as emphatic as other authorities a preponderance of the acid foods. on the beneiit to the general health Strange as it may seem, foods that would result from an increased which are themselves acid in re- consumption of grapefruit. He says:— action often have an alkaline ash. The more extensive use of raw fruils in the national dietary would be of This IS why the average person is benefit to the health of the community. so surprised to learn that the citrus Grapefruit, owing to its palatability, fruits, especially the grapefruit, which mineral content, and. more particularly, are acid to taste due to citric acid to its being one of the richest knowr are yet alkaline ash foods. They are sources of vitamin C. ranks high in in fact one of the foremost alkaline the list of " protective " foods. ash foods. In the blood the citric acid IS itself oxidised and various minerals " basic " or " alkahnic " in nature, contained in the fruit, are left. This explanation should allay the unfounded fear held by some people that citrus fruits cause "acids m the blood." Dr. Hanke, when testing the effect of citrus fruit juice on children met with such an objection. In " Diet 22. CiaOrJruil inarmajode. 18 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT Qrdpefruil PrepdraUon and Serving

With recipes collected and modified to suit Australian conditions.

BY MISS BETTY WILMOT Chief Dieiilian VICTORIAN RAILWAYS REFRESHMENT SERVICES

PREPARATION OF GRAPEFRUIT FOR knife is really essential if the fruit is SERVING IN THE RIND. to be prepared rapidly and correctly. Divide in halves by cutting round These knives are obtainable at a very the ' equator " of the fruit, as shown small cost from almost all leading in figure 1. stores. Different makes are available, Sharp serrated-edged, stainless some with serrated edges, some knives of the type shown in the plain, but all are curved and must be illustrations are suitable for citrus sharp.

I. PTetmrcfion of graprfwil for KWhs in nW, fruits, but, of course, any knife will The second step is shown in serve simply to cut the fruit in figure 2. Here the grapefruit knife halves. is used to cut round the pulp inside For the next step a grapefruit the pith, care being taken that no THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 19 pilli is allowed to remain attached informal service is given below). to the pulp. The curve of the knife If it is to be served for breakfast, permits the blade to cut well under a good idea is to prepare it the night the pulp. before, though this is not essential The third step is to separate each if the fruit is cut in the manner segment, This is done by cutting described as the sugar soon works from the centre to the circumference through. on either side of the membrane— For special occasions, or when time permits, the central pith and dividing membranes should be severed from the skin and lifted out. This can be done most simply with a pair of forceps or tweezers, or lacking these, a pair of scissors, as shown in figure 4. The hollow left

2. CuUins giapffrvil movnd btilp inside O/'V figure 3. If this has been carefully done, the pulp in each segment can now be easily lifted out, being quite free from its surrounding membranes. The pips should also be removed at this stage, If the fruit is to be used just for everyday breakfast service, not for CuJting from the cenfre on alher s^t of mfmbraiie. a special occasion, no further prepara- in the centre may then be filled with tion is necessary than to sugar well a crystallised or maraschino cherry. and allow to stand so that the sugar Dishes for the service of grapefruit may dissolve in the juice and pene- are available at leading stores in trate through the fruit. (Another crystal and pottery, and less expensive quick method of preparation for ones in glass. These have a foot, 20 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

or saucer-shaped base. One is shown in the illustration of a table setting for a dinner in which grapefruit is to form the first course—figure 8. Here is also shown a grapefruit spoon, which IS more pointed than the ordinary teaspoon and a little longer in the handle. SCARRED OR MARKED GRAPEFRUIT. Sometimes the peel of a grapefruit is scarred or embellished in some way, while the interior is in perfect condition, This may make the service of the fruit in the rind in any of the described fashions unattractive, In such a case, the pulp

6 Peeling graCtefruil for use m cocktaih or talads.

4. Erlraeling central pith and memiranes u.'ilh and juice may be served alone in a grapefruit dish—figure 8. The peel can be removed and the pulp from each segment cut out between the membranes by the method described below. 7. SepoiaHng ugments 9/ DuleJ graptfruif. THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 21

5. Sereins srapefrinl.

Ta^e sttling uilh tpteial poMtd gropt/ri/i! tt«cn. 22 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

Plenty of sugar is added to the fruit the fruit during this preparation. which IS then allowed to stand for some A satisfactory alternative method, time before serving. which may be easier if the fruit is very thick skinned, is to cut it in QUICK METHOD OF PREPARATION half and proceed as shown in figures FOR BREAKFAST SERVICE. 1, 2 and 3, but then, instead of remov- After cutting the fruit in half as ing the central pith and membranes, shown in figure I, remove the central remove the sections of pulp. The pith and pips by cutting round with segments are then, of course, in halves. a sharp knife and scooping out. A considerable amount of juice can Next separate the pulp from the be squeezed from the remaining rinds. surroundmg pith by runnmg the knife Of course, if it is not wished to go to around the circumference of the flesh. very much trouble, the fruit can Then quickly cut across the pulp simply be peeled with the fingers roughly dividing it into portions and and the segments separated and liber-ting the juice, sugar as before served with the pulp still enclosed and allow to stand before serving. in the covering membranes. Care must be taken to remove all the SMALL GRAPEFRUIT. adhering pith. When grapefruit is small, one-half may seem rather a meagre serve In such a case, try cutting off the top higher up than the " equator," The juice from the small portions removed can be squeezed into the part to be served—figure 5. An alternative method is to serve the two halves on an ova! dish as IS also shown in figure 5.

PREPARING SECTIONS OF GRAPEFRUIT, OR ORANGE, FREE FROM PITH AND MEMBRANE, FOR USE IN COCKTAILS AND SALADS.

Using for preference a serrated- edged knife, carefully peel the fruit, keeping the knife edge just under the layer of pith and so leaving the pulp exposed, as shown in figure 6. Then separate out the pulp from each segment by cutting along each side of the dividing membranes, towards the centre, as shown in figure 7. Care should be taken to collect the juice which will inevitably drip from 9. GropejruH mc^/oi/, THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 23

COCKTAILS. CRAPEPSUIT COP NO. 3.

CRAPEFRIJI T COCKTAIL. (A fruit juice cocktail.) (Serves six.) 2 large grapefruit 4 tablespoons candied (Serves six.) Granulated sugar gmger 6 tablespMns grape- Few grains salt 4 canned pear halves fruit juice 1 cup mineral or ice Remove the pulp from grapefruit and cut 2 tablespoons lemon water into small pieces. Sweeten, add candied juice 6 sprigs mint ginger, and diced pears, or else serve one-half 4 tablespoons orange pear per serve and fill the centre with mixture juice of grapefruit and ginger. Let stand in a cold 4 tablespoons sugar place to chill. Serve in glass cups or dishes, Mix ingredients thoroughly. Put crushed and sprinkle with a little extra ginger for a ice in cocktail glasses, pour in mixture and garnish. serve garnished with sprigs of mint—figure 9. GRAPEPRUJT WITH SHERRY. WHOLE-FRUIT COCKTAILS. Prepare grapefruit for serving in the rind, GRAPEFRUIT CUP NO. I. as already described. Add to each portion, (Serves six.) castor sugar and one tablespoon sherry. Remove the pulp from three large grape- Stand one hour, serve in a glass dish, and fruit by one of the methods described in garnish with a crystallised cherry the preparation of cocktails. Cut each sec- {Boston School Coo^ BooI(.) SAUDS.

PINEAPPLE, ORANGE AND GRAPEFRUIT SAUD. Prepare segments of orani?e and grapefruit, as already directed. For each portion allow one slice of canned pineapple, three sections of grapelruit and approximately one'Kalf

ID. Grmffruit Cup No, I. tion in thirds, or halves, accordini? to size. Sprinkle with sugar and chill. Serve plain, or with a garnish of mint leaves, with a table' spoon of grape juice poured over each serving— figure 10. 11. PinetbpU, orange oo^ araDe/rvil tafad, GRAPEFBIIIT CDP NO. 2. orange. Arrange on a hed ol lettuce leaves, (Serves six.) decorate with whipped cream and garnish 3 Grapefruit i cup seeded and with a maraschino or cystallised cherry— 6 Maraschino cherries, quartered grapes hgure II. shredded I tablespoon lemon GRAPEFRUIT AND CELERY SAIAD. 6 tablespoons sugar juice Cut a medium'sized grapefruit m four Peel the grapefruit and remove the sections, lengthwise and remove the pulp. Carefully cutting each one in thirds; add the sugar, grapes free from pith. Dice into neat pieces and and lemon juice and let stand one hour in sprinkle well with sugar. Cut up celery cold place to ripen. Pour into frappe glasses finely, flavoiu* with salt and i^pper. add and decorate with shredded cherries. to diced grapefruit and mix in a little mayon- 24 THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

rougKly. add sugar and allow to stand to bring out juice. Press through a strainer to extract juice. Soak gelatine in the haU'Cup of cold water till soft, and then dissolve by standme in a saucepan of boiling water. Vhen dissolved, add one pint boiling water, cool, add juice of grapefruit and lemon juice. Pour into ^JTiall individual moulds, previously rinsed in cold water, and allow to set» or

12. Croptfruil and c^frv naise. Place quarters of grapefruit rmd on a bed of lettuce and refill with mixture. Mask with mayonnaise, and decorate with strips of pimento or red capsicum. Garnish with celery tips or curled celery—Rgure 12. CRAPEFRLTT AND ORANGE SALAD. Prepare segments of oranges and grapefruit 14. Gfo^ruit jeHu. by the method already described. Arrange orange segments in a circle on a bed alternatively, set in a arge mould and serve of lettuce. Place the grapefruit segments chopped up finely as may be done with red currant jelly. Serve with cold meats figure 14. SWEETS. DELICIOUS GRAPEFRUIT PIE. i lb. Bood short cruat 4 level tablespoons Juice li erapefniit cornflour Juice i orange I teaspoon butter Juice i Lemon 2 egg yolks I cup hot water 2 egg whites 2 tablespoons castor sugar Line a pie plate with pastry and bake. Mix cornflour and sugar, add boiling water, stirring constantly. G>ok five minutes, cool a little, add butter, egg yolks (slightly

13, Crape/rut^ dnc/ orange sclad. in the centre to form a star, and decorate with whipped cream or thick mayonnaise, as shown in figure 13. GRAPEPSUIT JELLY. (An accompaniment to cold meats.) Pulp of 1 grapefruit ^ cup cold water 1 cup sugar 1 pint boiling waler 2 tablespoons powdered 2 tablespoons lemon gelatine, or i oi. juice sheet gelatine Remove all pulp from grapefruit, cut up t5, Gnttrfrat pte. THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 25

hc4t«n) And the strameij fruit juiced. Cool, Soak gelatine in the 2i oz. water till soft, and put into the haked shell and cover with then dissolve by standing in a saucepan of a n^eringue made with the stiffly'bttten egg boiling water. Strain into custard, mix and whites and cAStor sugar. Bake 15 minutes leave till beginning to set. Then fold in in a slow oven (3(Xl-350 degrees fehrenhelt) stiffly-beaten egg white and turn into grapefruit rinds and decorate with crushed aystal- until meringue W set and delicately browned— lised violets or a crystallised cherry. Chill figure but do not freeze—figure 17. GRAPEFRUIT FRirrEfts. {Besfuay Cuuizery Book') I large or 2 small grapefruit. Batter :— 4 oz. flour I egg yolk Pinch salt I egg white 5 oz. tepid water 2 tablespoons sugar I tablespoon melted butter To make batter, sift flour, sugar and salt into a basm and make a well m the centre. Pour m the beaten egg yolk and then melted butter or oil. Stir to a batter, gradually

17. CrttfKfniil moiase. GRAPEFRUIT A LA RUSSE. 3 grapefruit 2 tablespoons castor i cup sugar sugar 1 cup cream 6 Maraschino 16. Groptfrwl frilUn. cherries adding tepid water and then beat well. Fold i teaspoon Maraschino (liquor in which in stiffly-beaten egg white. cherries are tottled) Prepare grapefruit by peeling the fmit Cut grapefruit in halves crosswise and pre- with the fingers and separating out the seg' pare as described for service in the rind. ments without removing the covering mem- Sprinkle with sugar and chill. branes. but taking care to leave no pitK. Coat prepared segments with batter and fry in hot rat. Serve hot sprinkled with castor sugar and garnished with slices of lemon— figure 16. CHILLED SWEETS. GRAPEFRUIT MOUSSE. 2 grapefruit 21 oz. water

I egg Castor sugar^^-IO 2^ oz. milk tablespoons ^ oz. gelatine or I Crystallised violets or tablespoon powdered cherries gelatine Cut grapefruit in halves crosswise, remove pulp and rub through a sieve. Separate the egg yolk from the white. Beat up the yolk and mix in the milk, cook m a double botler till thick. When cold, add frapefruit juice and sugar. Id. Crapefwil a It russe. 26 THE STORY OF GRAf^RUIT

B«al cream till stiff, add sugar, pinch of salt and marascKlno. Pipe cream mixture on lop of each fialf in the form of a square. Decorate each corner wllh half a cherrv. Serve in a arapefrult glass {see figure 18). or a double cocktail gU»s having the outer

1Ramruj iTa[te/tuit, slass filled with crushed ice. {Baton School Cook Book-) BANANA CRAPEFRtiT. 20. GratreftaH /raMe, 2 grapefruit Desiccated G)Coanut with cherries—figure 19. 4 bananas Castor sugar {Modem Practical Cookery Book-) CrysUllised cherries GRAPEFRUIT FRAPPE. Peel bananas, mash into a pulp and add I quart water 2i cups grapefruit cups sugar juice squeeze of lemon juice. Cut grapefruit inio Rind i orange if cup orange juice halves cross ways and prepare as already Rind I lemon 3 tablespoons lemon described. After removing the central pilh Crystallised cherries juice and membranes, lift out the pulp and juice, i cup lime juice cordial (this ingredient sprinkle well with sugar and mix with mashed may be omitted) Carefully shave off the >'ellow part of the orange and lemon rind and put in a saucepan with sugar and water. Bring to boiling point and let hoil three minutes. Strain, cool» add remaining Ingredients and freeze to a mush. Serve in tall glasses and garnish with cherries—figure 20 {Boston School Cook Book-) DRINKS. GRAPEFRUIT PUNCH, I quart water 1 cup grapefruit pulp II cups sugar Juice I lemon 1 pint grapefruit juice i cup shredded 21. Grope/ruit punch. Shaved ice maraschino cherries banana. Put back the mixture into the grape- Boil sugar and water for 10 minutes. Cool» fruit rinds, sprinkle with cocoanut and decorate add fruit and fruit juices, and stand one hour THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT 27

to mature. Strain. Serve in glasses half-filled from i-| hour, or until it gives the " jelly with shaved ice. Add sugar, if necessary. test " (sec previous recipe). This fills 10 small punch glasses—figure 21, (Mrs. AUms Cook Book.) CRAREFBURR PRESERVE.

GRAPEFHUIT DRINK. Peel grapefruit thickly, removing all pith. Halve the fruit and remove the core, then cut Juice of i grapefruit 1-2 teaspoons sugar in thin slices and place in saucepan with Juice of i orange Water or soada sufficient water to almost cover and cook at a water moderate heat. When at boiling point add Strain fruit juices into a glass, add sugar, J pint sugar to each pint of fruit pulp and juice, then water or soda water; stir well to mix then cook slowly for about 15 minutes till it thoroughly the sugar and liquid. gives the " jelly test" (see previous recipe).

NOTE.—Jellying substances contained in the CONSERVES AND CANDIES. pips can be extracted by tying them in a piece of muslin and allowing them to boil with the jam^ GRAPEFRUIT MARMAUDE—1. Remove before bottling. 2 large grapefruit Cold water 2 orange? Sugar CANDIED CRSPEFRUIT PEEL. 2 lemons Wipe grapefruit, peel in six sections by Remove peel from fruit in four sections. cutting fruit lengthwise. Soak peel overnight in Slice fnjit and remove seeds. Discard one' one quart water and one tablespoon salt. half of rind and remove pith from remaining Dram, put in saucepan, cover with cold water rind, then cut in narrow strips. Mix strips with and brini to boil, repeat three times and cook sliced pulp. For each cup of mixture add m last water till soft, ahout four hours. Drain, three cups of water and let stand overnight. cut in strips i inch wide. Weigh peel and put Bring to boiling point and boil 10 minutes an equal weight of sugar in a saucepan, add and again let stand over night. Add one cup half-cup of cold water. Bring to boil and sugar for each cup of pulp and nnd. Cook add half the strips of peel, cover and cook two hours or until a little placed on a cold till pieces are clear. I^emove and drain well, saucer quickly develops a skin, and on cooling cool, roll in castor sugar and allow to dry. further jellies. This test is called the jelly Proceed with remaining half, store in glass test —figure 22. jars. {Boston School Cook Book-)

CRAPEFBUJT MARMALADE 2.

1 medium grapefruit I quart water BOTTLED GRAPEFRUIT. (i-i lb.) 4-6 lb. sugar

Slice grapefruit finely, removing pips, Peel the grapefruit and prepare as described cover with water and allow to stand 4-6 hours, for use in cocktails and salads. Alternatively, or preferably over night to extract full flavour the fruit may be cut in half and bottled with from the skins. Bring fruit and water to the the skin on. boil and allow to simmer gently for about Usin? a preserving jar with a suitable metal one hour till fruit Is tender. Add the su^ar. lid and rubber band, pack in the sections of Brine to the boll and cook until sample gives grapefruit and fill up with syrup. the ' jelly test (see previous recipe). (To MAKE SYRUP :— CRAPEFBUIT MARAMALADE—3. (An economical way of using up grapefruit Add one pint of water to 12 oz. sugar. Bring slowly to the boil and boil five minutesV peels.) Clamp on the lid to make a proper air-tight 3 lb. grapefruit peel 2 quarts water seal and place in the preserving pan. Bring 1 lemon 9 lb. sugar the water to the boil and boil 20 minutes. Shred the peel finely and cut the lemon in Remove jars and cool. Then invert the jars thin slices, cutting towards the centre. Cover to see if any leakage occurs; if so, then the with water and allow to stand 4-6 hours. seal is not air-light, and the fruit will need Bring to boil and simmer gently one hour. to be re-processed in jars with properly fitting Add sugar and stir till boiling. Boil gently lids. 2d THE STORY OF GRAPEFRUIT

ACKNOWLEDGMENTS.

The Victorian Central Citrus Afisodatlon ^ ^ places on record its appr^iation of the assistance received by the Editor of the Citrus News, in the compilation of this booklet, from Mr. J. L. Provan, B. Agric- Sc., Horti- cultural Research Officer, Dept. of Agri- culture. for general advice and for the use of photographs on cultural subjects; Mr, V. F- Letcher. Chairman, Victorian Railways Betterment and Publicity Board, for assistance in the printing; Miss Betty Wilmot, Chief Dietitian^ Vic- lorian Railways Refreshment Services, who contributed the recipe section and arranged the Illustrated settings; and to Mr. Harold W. Clapp, Chairman, Vic- torian Railways Commissioners, in ar- ranging for the valued co-operation of the members of his staff.

t. %. NICHOLAS *»r eniNrcR. • r

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