YOUR O.A.T. ADVENTURE TRAVEL PLANNING GUIDE®

Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land 2022

Small Groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! (average of 13)

Overseas Adventure Travel ® The Leader in Personalized Small Group Adventures on the Road Less Traveled 1 Dear Traveler,

At last, the world is opening up again for curious travel lovers like you and me. And the O.A.T. Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land itinerary you’ve expressed interest in will be a wonderful way to resume the discoveries that bring us so much joy. You might soon be enjoying standout moments like these:

When I think of Ethiopia, I imagine ancient relics of early Christianity and the legendary Queen of Sheba. But what I love most is seeing how the local people live, work, and play in rural communities. As you explore these ancient lands and witness the legacy of fallen kingdoms and powerful empires, you’ll experience modern daily life in Ethiopia when you spend A Day in the Life of Asheton Village near Lalibela. Here, you’ll learn about the Amhara people, one of Ethiopia’s two main ethnic groups who live in this region of the country, and connect with people of the village as they go about their daily routines, tending to the livestock and farming staple crops such as teff, barley, and beans. Perhaps you’ll even step into their shoes and lend a hand with the chores around the village.

You’ll also gain insights into the ongoing tensions between the Amhara and Oromo people during a conversation with a local expert in Addis Ababa who can offer a firsthand perspective. The divide between the two groups has been building for centuries; in recent years, however, the tension has boiled over into outright violence with each side pointing their finger at the other as the cause of the problem. You’ll have a chance to ask questions as we deepen our understanding of how these ethnic tensions affect everyday life and personal relationships in Ethiopia today.

The way we see it, you’ve come a long way to experience the true culture—not some fairytale version of it. So we keep our groups small, with only 8-16 travelers (average 13) to ensure that your encounters with local people are as intimate and authentic as possible. It’s also why your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader will be a resident “insider” who can show you the culture as only a local can.

To ensure that your adventure is truly unique, put your own personal stamp on it. You can arrive early and stay later, add a pre- or post-trip extension, spend time in a Stopover city, or combine two or more trips. Plus, your itinerary offers ample free time so you can pursue your own interests.

So until the day comes when you are off to enjoy your Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land adventure, I hope you will relish the fun and anticipation that this O.A.T. Adventure Travel Planning Guide® will inspire. Should you have further questions, feel free to call our Regional Adventure Counselors at 1-800-955-1925.

Love and peace,

Harriet R. Lewis Vice Chairman, Overseas Adventure Travel

P.S. For further peace of mind, please know that we are EXTENDING our Risk-Free Booking Policy through 12/31/21. Learn more at www.oattravel.com/risk-free-booking.

USA Today “Best Tours” 10Best Readers’ Presented by Choice Awards Solo Traveler

2 CONTENTS

A Letter from Harriet Lewis ...... 2 The O.A.T. Difference...... 4 The Freedom to Personalize Your Experience ...... 6 Grand Circle Foundation...... 8 The Leader in Solo Travel ...... 9

ETHIOPIA: CULTURAL DISCOVERIES ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: IN AN ANCIENT LAND CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE Your Adventure at a Glance: Ethiopian Culture ...... 84 Where You’re Going, What it Costs, Religion in Daily Life ...... 85 and What’s Included ...... 10 Responsible Safari Travel (Kenya Extension) 86 Your Detailed Day-To-Day Itinerary ...... 12 Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Pre-Trip Extensions ...... 35 Shipping & More ...... 90 Post-Trip Extensions ...... 44 Dates & Prices ...... 56 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY Ethiopia ...... 93 ESSENTIAL TRAVEL INFORMATION Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 93 Travel Documents & Entry Requirements. . . 57 Ethiopia: A Brief History ...... 93 Visas Required ...... 58 Kenya ...... 95 Rigors, Vaccines & General Health ...... 60 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 95 Vaccines Required ...... 61 Kenya: A Brief History ...... 96 Yellow Fever—Documentation Required . . . 61 Uganda...... 97 Money Matters: Local Currency & Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 97 Tipping Guidelines...... 64 Uganda: A Brief History ...... 98 Air, Optional Tours & Staying in Touch ..... 69 Zanzibar ...... 99 Optional Tours ...... 69 Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 99 Communicating with Home from Abroad . . 70 Zanzibar: A Brief History ...... 100 Packing: What to Bring & Luggage Limits . . . 72 Tanzania...... 101 Duffel Bag: Required on the Kenya Facts, Figures & National Holidays ...... 101 Extension ...... 74 Tanzania: A Brief History ...... 102 Suggested Packing Lists ...... 75 Electricity Abroad ...... 77 RESOURCES Climate & Average Temperatures ...... 80 Suggested Reading ...... 104 Suggested Film & Video ...... 107

O.A.T. Health & Safety Measures...... 110 Notes...... 111 Map ...... 115

3 EXPERIENCE THE O.A.T. DIFFERENCE in Ethiopia

This adventure not only showcases iconic sights, but takes you beyond them to experience the culture through unique activities, engagement with the natural world, and authentic encounters with local people. Since our founding in 1978, O.A.T. has become America’s leader in personalized small group journeys on the road less traveled.

SMALL GROUPS: 8-16 TRAVELERS LOCAL MODES OF TRANSPORTATION (AVERAGE OF 13)—GUARANTEED To see the world like the locals, you should The world feels more intimate and engaging travel like one. Our small group size allows when your experience of it is also personal us to take the roads and waterways that are and genuine. That’s why our groups never less traveled, and we often follow them using exceed 16 travelers. This gives you access to the same unique modes of transportation people and places larger groups simply can’t that the locals use—be it a canoe, a camel or a reach. More authentic interactions. Deeper vintage cab. bonds with your travel mates. Personal service from your Trip Experience Leader. Smoother UNIQUE LODGINGS transitions. And a far more satisfying Our lodgings reflect the local character, experience than any traditional tour offers. from smaller family-run hotels and historic manors to comfy inns. Occasionally, larger THE BEST TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS hotels closer to city centers are used. Wherever Your English-speaking, O.A.T. Trip Experience you stay, you’re assured fine comfort and Leader is a resident of the region you are visiting, hospitality. so you will get a true insider’s perspective that brings each place alive—the stories, food, OUR WORLDWIDE OFFICES customs, hidden treasures and more. With 36 regional offices around the world, we are perfectly poised to leverage our local AUTHENTIC CULTURAL CONNECTIONS relationships to deliver an excellent experience Engage with local people through visits to and value. During this trip, you’ll be supported farms, factories, markets, and artisans’ by our team in Cairo. studios; school visits; Home-Hosted meals; and more.

Explore local markets in Swaziland Interact with students at a primary school in Gondar

4 THE PILLARS OF DISCOVERY En riching. Inspiring. Unforgettable. These features form the foundation of your Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land adventure.

GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION (GCF) VISIT A DAY IN THE LIFE GCF was established in 1992 to help change Do you ever wonder, “What would it be like people’s lives in the world where we live, work, to live here?” when you visit new lands? Let’s and travel. To date, we have pledged or donated find out during your O.A.T. A Day in the Life, an $200 million worldwide. exclusive, immersive experience that places you in the heart of a community where you’ll meet You’ll see GCF’s work in action when we visit various people where they live, work, and play; a primary school in Gondar where we’ll meet visit the neighborhood school; lend a hand with the head teacher to learn about the history and daily chores; and break bread with our hosts. student population of the school, the education system of Ethiopia, and the types of subject This adventure includes A Day in the Life of matter that the children are expected to learn. Asheton Village where we’ll greet our hosts We’ll also meet some of the young students and enjoy an intimate conversation about the for ourselves and have the opportunity to history and traditions of the Amhara people, sing songs together, learn about their favorite the cultural group that lives in this region of subjects, help them with their schoolwork, and Ethiopia. As we explore the village, we’ll observe kick around a soccer ball on the playground. how the locals spend their days, tending to the livestock and farming staple crops such CONTROVERSIAL TOPICS as teff, barley, and beans. We’ll also have the Every culture has its joys and achievements, opportunity to learn what it’s like to be in their and we celebrate them all. But every place shoes as we help out with chores. also has its challenges, and to gloss over them would not do justice to those whose stories HOME-HOSTED EXPERIENCES need to be told—nor to you, as a traveler who Stories shared. Differences solved. Taste buds deserves more than a sugar-coated version of engaged. Good will extended. It’s amazing the things. So our Trip Experience Leaders will things that can happen across a kitchen table, lead frank discussions on controversial issues, so we’ll break into groups of 4-5 to join a local and introduce you to people whose stories will family in their home for a snack or a meal. This expand your understanding. is a rare opportunity to witness family life, learn local customs, and taste some home-cooked fare. For example, we’ll hear about the ongoing tensions between the Amhara and Oromo On this adventure, we’ll join a local family people, Ethiopia’s two main ethnic groups, in Aksum for home-cooked cuisine and during a conversation with a local expert. conversation. You might have the chance to join The divide between the two groups has been the woman of the house in her kitchen to help building for centuries; in recent years, however, prepare the meal, and see firsthand the role the tension has boiled over into outright that women play in Ethiopian households. If violence, and has left each side pointing their the children or parents are present, we’ll also finger at the other as the cause of the problem. have the opportunity to get to know multiple generations of Ethiopia’s people under one roof.

5 You're in control with THE FREEDOM TO PERSONALIZE YOUR EXPERIENCE Exclusively with O.A.T. Your Choice. Your Adventure. Your Way.

It’s your adventure, so why not make it exactly what you want it to be? We offer an exclusive variety of options that let you tailor your adventure so it’s completely your own. In fact, O.A.T. is the only travel company to offer this level of flexibility and choice for a truly personalized experience.

PRE- OR POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS 2. Great value: All extensions include Every O.A.T. adventure offers at least one accommodations, daily breakfast, and optional pre-trip and one post-trip extension. airport transfers. Here’s why more than 55% of O.A.T. travelers 3. Continuity and camaraderie: You’ll usually choose to take a pre- or post-trip extension: travel with the same Trip Experience Leader 1. You’ll maximize your discoveries—often who leads your main trip, enjoying more of in an even smaller group than your main his or her insider expertise—and more time adventure (on average, 6 travelers with a to bond with the group. dedicated Trip Experience Leader)—and take advantage of your included airfare.

Optional Extensions offered with your Africa adventure

Kenya: Mount Kenya National Park & NEW! Uganda Discoveries: Mountain Gorillas Sweetwaters Game Reserve of Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth National Park 7 nights pre-trip from $2895 6 nights pre-trip from $4895

Zebras, Sweetwaters Game Reserve, Kenya Kampala, Uganda

The Spice Island of Zanzibar NEW! Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater 7 nights post-trip from $1995 & Serengeti Safari 7 nights post-trip from $3495

Stone Town, Zanzibar, Tanzania Cheetahs, Serengeti National Park, Tanzania

6 ARRIVE EARLY, STAY LATER • Nairobi: $945 per person Extending your time abroad—with us or • Johannesburg: $1195 per person on your own—is the best way to broaden Other O.A.T. Stopovers are available. If the city your experience. It’s also a practical way to you’re interested in is not offered, our Regional maximize the value of the international airfare Adventure Counselors can arrange your airfare. covered in your main itinerary. COMBINE ADVENTURES Expand Your Discoveries Before You’re already overseas. Why not see more and or After Your Adventure maximize your value by avoiding the cost and Arrive early in the first destination on your length of another international flight? Here’s pre-trip extension or main adventure, or stay why 2,250 O.A.T. travelers combined two or later in the last city on your main adventure or more adventures in 2019: post-trip extension. By coming early, you can • Save a total of $600-$3000 per person when rest after your flight and adjust—with time to you combine two adventures compared to the explore. By staying later, you have extra time cost of taking each trip separately. to relax, pack, or continue exploring. • Apply the 5% or 6% Frequent Traveler Credit This option lets you take advantage of our you earn on your first trip to your second trip. lower group rates, with prices from $100 per • Sir Edmund Hillary Club members save an person per night—including accommodations, extra $250-$350 per person when booking private airport transfer, and daily breakfast. multiple trips in a calendar year. • Arrive early or conclude your main trip in • Our Regional Adventure Counselors make all Addis Ababa for $150 per person, per night the arrangements for a seamless experience. • Arrive early in Nairobi on the Mount Combine this trip with our Ultimate Africa: Kenya pre-trip extension for $100 per Botswana, Zambia & Zimbabwe Safari person, per night adventure—for a total cost of $10,390-$14,590 • Arrive early in Entebbe on the Uganda pre- per person—and save $1500-$2100 per person trip extension for $150 per person, per night versus taking each trip separately. • Spend more time in Unguja after your AIR PREFERENCES Zanzibar post-trip extension for $125 per 54% of our travelers customize their air person, per night itineraries: • Remain in Arusha after your Tanzania post- • Choose your departure city and airline trip extension for $75 per person, per night • Depart from one city and return to another Accommodations are at the same hotels where you begin or end the main trip and optional • Upgrade to Premium Economy or extensions, so transitions will be seamless. Business Class

NEW! Stopover in any major international city PERSONALIZED PRIVATE ADVENTURES Travel on a private departure with as few as Travelers with O.A.T. airfare have the five travelers and your own Trip Experience opportunity to Stopover in popular cities. Leader. An additional cost will apply depending Your price includes 3 nights accommodations, on the number of travelers in your group. daily breakfasts, and roundtrip private airport transfers. Here are a few popular destinations:

7 GRAND CIRCLE FOUNDATION Changing people’s lives, one village, one school, one person at a time

GIVING BACK TO THE WORLD WE TRAVEL Dear Traveler, Since our inception in 1992, the Grand Circle In 1992 we established Grand Circle Foundation has pledged or donated more than Foundation, an entity of the Lewis Family $200 million to projects around the world. Foundation, as a means to give back to the world that had already given us so JOIN OUR GENEROUS TRAVELERS much. We’ve pledged or donated more We consider each and every one of our travelers than $200 million worldwide to support to be partners in our worldwide giving. the education of young people and the Some travelers, however, are so inspired by preservation of international treasures the schools and villages they visit, they are and UNESCO World Heritage Sites. compelled to give more. In fact, our travelers have donated more than $1 million in 2019 Of course, none of this would be possible alone. And because we have no administrative without your help. A portion of the costs, 100% of donations are used to help proceeds of every adventure is donated to change people’s lives. Grand Circle Foundation—so just as your life will be enriched by the discoveries BETTER OUR OWN COMMUNITIES— you’ll make on your journey, you’ll also ALL AROUND THE WORLD help to enrich the lives of the people you’ll In addition to the destinations where we travel, meet along the way. we strive to better the communities where Thank you for traveling with us, and for we work—from our headquarters in Boston helping to change people’s lives. to our 36 offices around the world. In Boston, more than 99% of our associates participate Love and peace, in community service each year. Worldwide, nearly all of our offices organize annual community service events of their own. Harriet R. Lewis Chair, Grand Circle Foundation How you can help To learn more about ongoing Foundation projects, you can sign up for our weekly e-newsletter, the Inside Scoop, at www.oattravel.com/community/the- inside-scoop. When you do, you’ll not only receive updates on Grand Circle Foundation, but the latest news and discoveries on all things Grand Circle and Overseas Adventure Travel.

SCAN ME See how Grand Circle Foundation is giving back in this video Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will take you www.grandcirclefoundation.org directly to the video.

8 THE LEADER IN SOLO TRAVEL in Ethiopia—and Around the World

ON THIS ADVENTURE …

FREE Single Supplements: We don’t charge The leader in solo-friendly a single supplement on this adventure travel for Americans— and optional trip extensions—a savings by the numbers of $900-$1295 per person compared to other travel companies. But single spaces fill quickly, so early reservations More than 50% of all O.A.T. are advised. travelers are women who travel solo

Travel Solo, But Never Alone: On average, half of your group will also be traveling In 2022, we’re offering 30,000 independently, so it’s easier to forge special singles spaces across all O.A.T. bonds as you experience unforgettable adventures. That’s 86% more than moments together during your adventure. offered in 2019 Plus, your Trip Experience Leader can help connect you with fellow travelers who share 92% of our 30,000 single spaces your common interests. have FREE Single Supplements. The remaining 8% have the lowest single You’ll be in good hands, thanks to your supplements in the industry. dedicated local Trip Experience Leader (a resident of Ethiopia), and the expertise of our regional office team in Cairo. In 2022, we’re offering 25 exclusive women’s departures on some of our Single Space: In 2022, we have 200 single most popular itineraries spaces, with up to 5 single spaces per departure. See available FREE single space at www.oattravel.com/eth2022. NEW! 101+ SCAN ME Tips for Solo Women Travelers This complimentary, 96-page booklet is a comprehensive collection of savvy tips specifically for seasoned women travelers going solo. Learn about safety for solos, packing like a pro, the best travel apps, self-care on the road, and more. Scan this code to view an online copy or to request one by mail.

9 Lower prices than last year—a value of $600 per couple

New! E t h i o p i a : Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land Small Group Adventure Ethiopia: Addis Ababa, Aksum, Lalibela, Simien Mountains National Park, Gondar, Bahir Dar

Countries: 1 | Cities : 5 | 2 Nights In A Lodge in Simien Mountains National Park

Small groups: 8-16 travelers—guaranteed! It’s Included (average of 13)

Explore in a small group of 8-16 18 small group activities FROM PER DAY DAYS • • travelers (average group size of 13) $ $ • Services of a local O.A.T. Trip 6295 371 17 • International airfare, airport transfers, Experience Leader government taxes, fees, and airline fuel Gratuities for local guides, Including international airfare surcharges unless you choose to make • drivers, lodge and camp staff, and your own air arrangements FREE Single Supplement luggage porters Accommodations for 15 nights (plus • 5 % Frequent Traveler Credit 1 night in Washington D.C. for some • toward your next O.A.T. trip—an travelers) Maximize Your average of $394 Discoveries & Value • 40 meals—14 breakfasts, 12 lunches, and 14 dinners Optional extension s : Kenya: Mount Kenya National Park & SCAN ME Sweetwaters Game Reserve Watch our #1 most popular video 7 nights pre-trip from $2895 for this adventure Travel from only $414 per night Open the camera feature on your mobile device, and hover New! Uganda Discoveries: Mountain the lens over this code to scan it. A pop-up notification will Gorillas of Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth take you directly to the video. National Park 6 nights pre-trip from $4895 Travel from only $816 per night The Spice Island of Zanzibar 6 nights post-trip from $1995 Travel from only $285 per night New! Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti Safari 7 nights post-trip from $3495 Travel from only $500 per night PLUS, see Dates & Prices for Stopover city options

Women at a local market, Ethiopia

Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land

10 I T R E Itinerary Summary

PRE-TRIP EXTENSIONSE R A POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS I

N To/From Sweetwaters Nanyuki n Addis Ababa

d Game Reserve Mount A A Aksum i Pre-trip extensions: 7 nights in Kenya: Kenya N.P. To/From T I e a ke Zanzibar Addis Ababa z N Zanzibar D é Island n Mount Kenya National Park & Sweetwaters Serena A Channel

U Jozani O

Mountain Lodge Simien Mountains Z Zanzibar Chwaka Game Reserve OR New! 6 nights in National Park c S (Stone Town) N KENYA Bay N.P. e Uganda Discoveries: Mountain Gorillas of a

A Fumba Beach

To/From Nairobi Menai Bay n T Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth National Park Gondar Unguja Lodge . To/From .C Addis Ababa R Queen . Serengeti N.P. KENYA D Elizabeth UGANDA Lake DAYS DESTINATION N.P. Tana Lalibela Entebbe From Addis Ababa Bahir Dar Lake Ngorongoro 1 Fly to Washington D.C. Bwindi N.P. Victoria Crater TANZANIA Karatu RWANDA Lake Eyasi Arusha B 2 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia lue Ni SOUTH le TANZANIA SUDAN

To/From U.S. 3-5 Addis Ababa Internal flight ETHIOPIA Land route Boat cruise Addis Ababa 0Miles 200 6-7 Fly to Aksum

8-10 Fly to Lalibela What to Expect 11-12 Fly to Simien Mountains

13-14 Gondar

Pacing: 6 locations in 15 days 15-16 Bahir Dar Physical requirements: The entire country of Ethiopia is at a high altitude. Day 8 includes walking at an altitude of 8,500 feet; Day 9 includes an elective 45-minute 17 Return to U.S. hike up steep terrain at an altitude of about 9,000 feet. Flight time: Travel time will be 18-28 hours and will most likely have two Post-trip extensions: 6 nights in The connections Spice Island of Zanzibar OR New! 7 nights View all physical requirements at www.oattravel.com/eth2022 in Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti Safari

Arrive Early, Stay Later Ethiopia : The O.A.T. Difference Prices below include accommodations, daily breakfast, and private airport transfer. Our Best Value in 2 Years: Save up to $400 per person, and travel at the lowest • Arrive early or conclude your main trip price and per diems in the industry. in Addis Ababa for $150 per person, per night People-to-People Experiences: Learn the secrets of making injera, Ethiopian • Arrive early in Nairobi on the Mount flatbread, during a hands-on cooking demonstration before sitting down to dine Kenya pre-trip extension for $100 per on the fruits of our labor. Plus, sit down with a local family for a home-cooked person, per night meal and intimate conversation during our Home-Hosted Dinner in Aksum. • Arrive early in Entebbe on the Uganda pre-trip extension for $150 per person, A Day in the Life O.A.T. Exclusives: Experience of Asheton Village, where we’ll per night get to know its people and enjoy a conversation about the history and traditions • Spend more time in Unguja after your of the Amhara people, the cultural group that lives in this region of Ethiopia. Zanzibar post-trip extension for $125 Plus, learn about Controversial Topics affecting the country from several locals, per person, per night including the ongoing tensions between the Amhara and Oromo people, sexism • Remain in Arusha after your Tanzania in Ethiopia, and the stigmatization of women with fistulas. post-trip extension for $75 per person, per night

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/eth2022

11 Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land

YOUR DETAILED ITINERARY

BEGIN YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL PRE-TRIP EXTENSION 7 nights in Kenya: Mount Kenya National Park & Sweetwaters Game Reserve

Day 1 Fly to Washington D.C. Day 6 Transfer to Sweetwaters Game Reserve • Controversial Topic: Human Day 2 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia and wildlife conflict outside of Sweetwater Day 3 Arrive in Addis Ababa and fly to Day 7 Morning game-viewing drive • Tour Nairobi, Kenya Goodall Chimpanzee Sanctuary • Night Day 4 Fly via Nairobi to Mount Kenya • game-viewing drive Walk to a local village Day 8 Morning game-viewing drive • Fly Day 5 Nature walk in Mount Kenya to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, via Nairobi National Park Day 9 Join main trip

OR 6 nights in Uganda Discoveries: Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth National Park

Day 1 Depart U.S. Day 5 Overland to Queen Elizabeth National Park • Afternoon Day 2 Arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia • Fly game-viewing drive to Entebbe, Uganda Day 6 Morning game drive • Cruise along Day 3 Fly to Bwindi • Controversial the Kazinga Channel Topic: The Rise and Fall of Idi Amin Day 7 Lake Katwe salt extraction site visit Day 4 Gorilla trekking in Bwindi • Afternoon game drive Impenetrable Forest National Park Day 8 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia via Entebbe

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

12 Day 1 Fly to Washington D.C. Depending on where we stay, our hotel should be located in the heart of the Ethiopian capital, • Accommodations: Hilton Washington Dulles convenient to many of the major sites. Hotel Airport Hotel or similar amenities will likely feature a restaurant, bar, Activity Note: Travelers reserving their airfare spa, and fitness center. Typical rooms include with O.A.T. will fly from their home city to air-conditioning, safe, satellite TV, minibar, Washington D.C. for an overnight hotel stay tea- and coffee-making facilities, and private on Day 1; then fly to Addis Ababa on Day 2. bath. You’ll have time to relax from your flight Travelers reserving their airfare with O.A.T. before regrouping later this afternoon. whose home city is Washington D.C. will not require this overnight hotel stay; instead they Lunch: On your own—if you don’t wish to catch will fly to Addis Ababa on Day 2 and receive up on some sleep, you can dine in the hotel or a $150 credit. Travelers reserving their own ask your Trip Experience Leader to recommend airfare will meet the group in Addis Ababa on a nearby restaurant. Day 3 and will also receive a $150 credit. Afternoon: At about 4pm, we’ll gather in the Fly to Washington D.C. today (unless hotel with our Trip Experience Leader, who Washington D.C. is already your gateway city) will set the stage for our discoveries in Ethiopia and spend the night at a hotel near the airport. during a Welcome Briefing. This briefing gives You may have the option to check in early us the chance to introduce ourselves and depending on availability. get to know the other members of our small group—including travelers who joined our optional New! Uganda Discoveries: Mountain Day 2 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Gorillas of Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth National You depart today for your overnight flight from Park or Kenya: Mount Kenya National Park & the U.S. to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Sweetwaters Game Reserve pre-trip extension. We will also review our itinerary in more detail Day 3 Arrive in Addis Ababa (including any changes that may need to occur). Our Trip Experience Leader will also discuss • Destination: Addis Ababa logistics, safety and emergency procedures, and • Included Meals: Dinner answer any questions we may have. • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel At about 5pm, we’ll depart our hotel for an or similar orientation walk to gain familiarity with Activity Note: Addis Ababa is located at 7,700 our surroundings, taking care to explore feet above sea level, and our stay here provides off-the-beaten-path sections of the city to an important opportunity to acclimatize and maintain social distancing. We’ll walk for about become accustomed to the level of caution 15 minutes to a khat shop to learn about this required when walking or hiking before we local tradition. Khat is a bitter leaf chewed by ascend substantially higher in altitude over the locals, which acts as a powerful stimulant. We’ll course of our adventure. spend about 15 minutes talking with the shop owner to learn about khat’s role in everyday Morning: Upon arrival in Ethiopia this Ethiopian life and its production process—if morning, an O.A.T. representative will meet you’re feeling adventurous, you’ll also have the you at the airport and escort you to your opportunity to try it for yourself. hotel in Addis Ababa, about a 20-minute ride.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

13 At around 5:30pm, we’ll enjoy a more empowerment for women in various parts traditional stimulant when we stop by of Ethiopia. Shop their variety of creative an Ethiopian coffee shop. Many shops in products, ranging from wallets, belts, purses, Ethiopia—like the one we’ll visit—still brew bags, sandals, and shoes. You’ll also have the coffee in a traditional clay pot (known as a opportunity to chat firsthand with the leather jebena) and roast and grind the beans in small workers as they practice their craft. batches throughout the day. We’ll talk with • How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi the women who run the shop, and have a ride, about $15 USD one way. hands-on opportunity to help them prepare • Hours: 9am-6pm, daily. the day’s roast. We’ll walk back to our hotel at • Cost: Free. around 6pm. • Witness contemporary art at the ZOMA Dinner: At about 6:30pm, we’ll gather at the Museum: ZOMA opened its doors in 2019 to hotel for an included dinner. showcase the timeless and structurally-sound architecture of Ethiopia. Their main hope is Evening: You are free to retire to your room, to function as a bridge between artists and relax in the hotel’s common areas, or gather at architects from around the world to create the bar for a cocktail to get to know your fellow cutting-edge, ecological art and architecture. travelers. The museum itself was built using ancient Freedom To Explore: During your three practices and eco-friendly products, like nights in Addis Ababa, you have the freedom mud, straw, wood, stone, and cement. While to explore the city on your own during your here, you can visit their gallery, library, edible free time. Below are recommended options for garden, elementary school, art and vernacular independent exploration: school and amphitheater. • How to get there: A 20- to 25-minute taxi • Visit Salem’s Ethiopia: What began as a few ride, about $15 USD one way. necklaces being sold to friends has grown • Hours: 10am-8pm, Tuesday-Sunday. into a local hotspot for traditional jewelry and • Cost: About $3 USD. gifts. Every piece, ranging from tribal beaded jewelry to religious crosses, holds a piece of Day 4 Explore Addis Ababa • Visit Signum Ethiopian history and culture. While here, Vitae rehabilitation center shop for souvenirs and meet the shop owner, Salem. She’ll share the challenges of being a • Destination: Addis Ababa female entrepreneur, as well as her efforts to • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner support traditional practices within her local • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel community. or similar

• How to get there: A 15- to 20-minute taxi Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at ride, about $15 USD one way. 7am, with a variety of fresh breads, pastries, • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. and hot and cold selections. You may wish to • Cost: Free. try kinche, a popular Ethiopian breakfast item • Meet leather workers at Kabana Leather: similar to oatmeal that is made from cracked Conceptualized and owned by a female wheat and often flavored with spiced butter. designer, the shop’s main mission is to create employment opportunities and economic

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

14 Morning: Today begins our first full day in preserved near to their original state and may Addis Ababa, whose name translates to “New also be visited. We’ll depart the museum at Flower” in the Amharic language. While around 2:30pm, and drive back to our hotel by Ethiopia is the cradle of mankind, Addis private motorcoach, arriving at around 3pm. Ababa is quite modern. Founded by Ethiopian We’ll then have a couple of hours of free time Emperor Menelik in 1892, it quickly grew into before regrouping for dinner. a sprawling city of about five million people, Dinner: At about 6:30pm we’ll enjoy a Welcome serving as the bustling capital of a country Dinner at a local restaurant. Typical Ethiopian whose culture, history, and linguistic identity food is centered on injera, a spongy sourdough is quite distinct from the rest of Africa. Because flatbread topped with wat, a thick stew or Addis Ababa (usually shortened to Addis by the curry of spicy meats, lentils, and vegetables. locals) is perched on the Abyssinian plateau at And don’t be afraid to use your hands. Just use an elevation of almost 8,000 feet, the climate of pieces of injera as a “spoon” to scoop up bites the world’s third highest capital city is usually of the tasty food (but try to remember that in pleasantly cool. traditional Ethiopian culture, you should only At around 9am, we’ll board our private use the right hand). motorcoach to visit Signum Vitae, a Evening: Free to explore the Ethiopian capital non-governmental organization dedicated on your own. Addis is considered quite safe at to rehabilitating and improving the lives of night, and you might wish to visit one of the disabled people. Latin for “sign of life,” Signum many lively azmari baits (traditional music Vitae employs local Addis Ababa residents with houses), where singers and musicians perform a wide range of physical disabilities, training using traditional Ethiopian instruments. them in the arts of woodworking, eyeglass lens grinding, and other skills to help transform their lives. We’ll spend about 2 hours here, Day 5 Visit Sabahar fabric workshop talking with the workers to learn about what • Discover “Lucy” fossils at National life is like for disabled people in Ethiopia’s Museum • Coffee shop visit • capital, before returning to our private Controversial Topic: Ethnic violence in motorcoach and driving to a local restaurant Ethiopia with Professor Aseles Asefa and for lunch. Biruk Shiferaw

Lunch: Around 12pm at a local restaurant, • Destination: Addis Ababa featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel Afternoon: At around 1pm we’ll depart the or similar restaurant and drive to our next stop. At about 1:30pm, we’ll spend a couple of hours at one Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we will learn of the finest museums in all of Africa. The about a Controversial Topic affecting daily Ethnological Museum covers the full sweep life in modern Ethiopia: the ongoing tensions of Ethiopia’s cultural and social history. between the country’s Amhara and Oromo Intricately arranged exhibits narrate the story ethnic groups, which have recently erupted of the country and its peoples, all spanning two into bloodshed, claiming the lives of hundreds floors of the palatial residence of Haile Selassie. of people each year. We’ll get a personal The former Ethiopian emperor’s rooms are perspective on this complicated issue from local

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15 people who have ancestry from each group, Afternoon: At about 1:15pm, we’ll visit offering a nuanced look at this difficult subject. another of the coffee shops of Addis—this Read more about this activity below. one more modern. While coffee-obsessed Ethiopia proudly clings to its traditions, it’s Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at not immune from modern influences. Whether 7am, featuring Ethiopian and international it’s from traditional clay pots or modern selections. macchiato machines (introduced after the Morning: At around 9am, we’ll board our Italian occupation), Ethiopia is considered to private motorcoach and drive to Sabahar fabric have some of the world’s best coffee—which workshop, arriving at around 9:30am for an should come as no surprise since this is coffee’s included tour. Sabahar is a fair-trade textile ancestral homeland. Coffee plants grew wild workshop founded in 2004 with a vision of here before cultivation started more than 1,000 preserving Ethiopia’s ancient hand-weaving years ago. Coffee was also once an integral part traditions, and providing job opportunities to of spiritual worship, complete with elaborate the country’s marginalized population. We’ll rituals—so much so, that a ceremonial method tour the workshop for about an hour, and see of making coffee in Ethiopian homes continues firsthand how the colorful silk and cotton to this day. During our tour of this coffee scarves, blankets, and other handspun textiles shop, perhaps we’ll learn about the legend are made by its skilled artisans. And, because of the ninth-century Ethiopian goat herder 80% of the shop’s workers are female, we’ll who observed his energized goats nibbling on have a valuable opportunity to connect and the beans. learn what daily life is like for working-class At around 2:30pm, we’ll drive by private women in Addis Ababa. motorcoach back to our hotel. We’ll arrive Our tour will conclude around 10:30am, then around 3pm and have about a half hour to we’ll board our private motorcoach and drive to freshen up before a conversation in our hotel’s the National Museum, arriving at about 11am. conference room at around 3:30pm about a Along with fascinating items such as the throne Controversial Topic: the ongoing tensions of Emperor Haile Selassie and a wealth of between the Amhara and Oromo people, Ethiopia’s historical and artistic treasures, the Ethiopia’s two main ethnic groups. The divide museum houses the remains of early hominids, between the two groups has been building for including “Lucy,” the 3.25-million-year-old centuries; in recent years, however, the tension hominid skeleton discovered in northwestern has boiled over into outright violence, with Ethiopia in 1974. Lucy—who changed our riots, looting, and murder leaving hundreds understanding of humanity forever—acquired dead, and each side pointing their finger at the her name from the Beatles’ song Lucy in the Sky other as the cause of the problem. with Diamonds, which was played loudly and We’ll delve into this complicated subject with repeatedly in the camp after the excavation two Addis Ababa locals who are intimately team’s first day of work on the recovery site. At familiar with the tension that hangs over daily about noon, we’ll depart the museum and walk life in Ethiopia (or similarly-situated local to a nearby restaurant. experts if they are unavailable). First, we’ll Lunch: At a garden restaurant near the museum meet Aseles Asefa, a professor of political shortly after noon, featuring local cuisine. affairs at Addis Ababa University in her forties. As a member of Ethiopia’s Amhara ethnic

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16 group, and a professional scholar who has In recent years, the Oromo people have extensively researched the political nuances of launched a civil rights movement to fight for the country’s ethnic strife, she will be able to equality, and the resulting conflict has been offer her own personal, detailed perspective on bloody, as the nation has become increasingly the origins of the conflict, and about how she dominated by ethnic nationalist factions thinks the strife can be resolved. on both sides. For example, in June 2019, Ambachew Mekonnen, the chief administrator She’ll also be joined by Biruk Shiferaw, a man of the Amhara Region, was assassinated in a in his fifties born from a mixed Oromo-Amhara coup attempt by Amhara nationalists, sparking marriage, who will offer his perspective on the riots and a crackdown that resulted in the roots of Ethiopia’s precarious situation, what deaths of 86 people. And in June 2020, the it’s like to navigate it as a descendant from both Oromo singer and civil rights activist Hachalu groups, and how he believes the government Hundessa was shot dead in Addis Ababa; while has a duty to intervene and broker a peace the identity of his killers and their motives between Ethiopia’s people. Both speakers are remains a mystery, the murder resulted in a lifelong Ethiopia residents with families of their nationwide wave of unrest that claimed the own, and will offer a deeply personal point of lives of 239 people. view about their hopes for reconciliation, and provide context for how things got to where We’ll spend about an hour talking with Aseles they are today. and Biruk, who have lived through these tumultuous events and can offer their firsthand Since the 19th century, Ethiopia has been split perspective. They’ll speak for about 20 minutes, into two main ethnic groups. In the north, the and then we’ll have the remainder of the hour Amhara people make up around 23% of the to ask questions and deepen our understanding population; in the south, the Oromo ethnic of how these ethnic tensions affect everyday life group constitutes around 41% of the country. and personal relationships in Ethiopia today. While the Oromo make up a plurality of the population, the Amhara have long dominated Our conversation will end at around 4:30pm, the Ethiopian political and economic sphere. By then we’ll have rest of the day to explore occupying the fertile lands of the north, they’ve independently. enjoyed a level of growth and prosperity that Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience their Oromo neighbors in the south claim they Leader can recommend options to suit your have been habitually denied. appetite. The Oromo people believe they are oppressed by Evening: Free to enjoy the hotel amenities or the Amhara and Tigrinya people of the north, explore Addis on your own—you can ask your and have been subjected to discrimination, Trip Experience Leader for suggestions. You torture, imprisonment, forced labor, and may wish to retire early for tomorrow’s early executions to keep them at the bottom of morning wake-up call. the social ladder. In contrast, many among the Amhara say that claims of inequality are exaggerated—as the most productive members of society, who do the lion’s share of driving the country’s economic growth, why should they be forced to give away the fruits of their labor?

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17 Day 6 Fly to Aksum • Visit Stelae park & St. Empire began around the first century AD, Mary of Zion Church with its heyday between the fourth and seventh centuries. Today’s Aksum—a UNESCO • Destination: Aksum World Heritage Site—is home to many vivid • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner reminders of its glory days, including giant • Accommodations: Sabean International obelisks, ancient castles, and hidden tombs Hotel or similar of kings. Activity Note: You will have a 4:45am wake-up Our first stop will be at around 2:30pm, when call for an early morning flight to Aksum. we travel to the northern edge of the city to Travelers will be expected to wear masks while discover the most impressive ruins of the in Addis Ababa airport. Your Trip Experience ancient Aksumite civilization—the colossal Leader will check your group in together in obelisks, or stelae. During pre-Christian times, order to maintain social distancing at the these intricately-carved monoliths were airport. In accordance with local tradition, erected to mark the tombs of kings, nobles, women are not allowed inside the chapel at St. and important leaders. More than 120 of these Mary of Zion, and are expected to wear a head massive pillars are scattered throughout the covering while exploring the adjacent church. region. One of them, at more than 100 feet tall Breakfast: Coffee, tea, and snacks will be and about 550 tons, fell and shattered as it was provided in the hotel beginning at 5:15am. being erected in the fourth century. Another 80-foot-high, 160-ton monolith was taken by Morning: We’ll depart our hotel at around Mussolini in 1937 and brought to Rome, where 5:30am and drive to the Addis airport for our it stood for 68 years. It was finally returned to flight of approximately 1.5 hours to Aksum its rightful place in Aksum in 2005. that will depart shortly before 8am. At around 10:15am, we’ll check in to our hotel. Aksum (or Many mysterious abound in Aksum. Who built Axum) is rather small, so depending on where the ancient stelae—and why? Was this really we stay, our hotel will be located in heart of the capital of the Queen of Sheba? And what this one-time capital of an ancient empire. secret treasure remains hidden in sealed tombs? Amenities should include a restaurant and Aksum still has many secrets to reveal, but bar, and typical rooms include private bath. what has already been uncovered represents We’ll have some time to relax before gathering some of the most stunning monuments of the together and walking to a local restaurant ancient world. for lunch. We’ll spend about an hour exploring the stele Lunch: At a local restaurant at around 11am, park, then at around 3:30pm, we’ll arrive at St. featuring local cuisine. Mary of Zion Church, a religious complex whose roots go back to Ethiopia’s earliest days of Afternoon: After lunch, we’ll have about two Christianity. A blend of the ancient and modern, hours free to relax or explore independently. the original church was built in 1665. It is At around 2pm, we’ll board our private thought to rest atop the foundations of a temple motorcoach to begin our discoveries of Aksum, built between the fourth and sixth centuries, the former capital of an empire whose influence making this the oldest Christian site in Africa. stretched over a vast swath of northeast Africa Most Ethiopians believe that a small chapel and southern Arabia. Almost on par with located here contains the Ark of the Covenant, ancient Greece, Rome, and Egypt, the Aksumite

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18 a box of acacia wood that Moses is said to have • Visit with a Ge’ez script writer: In continuous placed the stone tablets inscribed with the Ten use for more than two millennia, this elegant Commandments. Guarded by a single monk, script was adapted throughout the centuries nobody is allowed to enter the room and only to write other Ethiopian languages, including after his death will the monk leave the grounds. Amharic, the country’s official national language. You can learn more by visiting with a local master for a demonstration of one of We’ll depart the grounds around 4:30pm, and the world’s most ancient scripts. enjoy some free time to relax at our hotel and absorb our discoveries before dinner. • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, about $8 USD one way. Dinner: At about 6:30pm at our hotel, featuring • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily traditional Ethiopian fare. • Cost: Entry to the shop is free.

Evening: Free to retire to your room, explore Day 7 Explore Yeha • Visit sesame oil mill • Aksum on your own, or gather with your fellow Home-Hosted Dinner travelers at the hotel bar for a nightcap. • Destination: Aksum Freedom To Explore: During your two nights • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner in Aksum, you have the freedom to explore the • Accommodations: Sabean International city on your own during your free time. Below Hotel or similar are recommended options for independent exploration: Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries include a Home-Hosted Dinner with a local • Visit the bustling Aksum Market: Browse a Ethiopian family. We’ll split into smaller groups splendid array of colorful wares, including of no more than 5 for a memorable evening handwoven injera baskets. Walk amongst the of intimate conversation, home-cooked stalls and enjoy the opportunity for peo- cuisine, and cultural exchange that is made ple-to-people connections as you talk with possible only by O.A.T.’s small group size and the vendors, as well as the locals going about connections with local people. Read more about their daily shopping. this activity below. • How to get there: An approximately Breakfast: Served at the hotel 20-minute walk from your hotel. beginning at 6am. • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily • Cost: Entry to the market is free. Morning: At around 7:30am, we’ll depart our • Stop by a local silversmith’s shop: Learn hotel to visit Yeha, an archaeological site about about this local craft as you watch an artisan 35 miles outside of Aksum. As we pass by fields employ ancient techniques, forging flatware, of teff (the grain used to make injera) along tea sets, jewelry, decorative sculpture, and the way, perhaps we’ll stop to chat with one of other fine goods from precious metal. the farmers and learn more about life in rural Ethiopia. • How to get there: An approximately 20-minute walk from your hotel. At around 10:15am, we’ll arrive at Yeha. • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily Considered to be the birthplace of Ethiopia’s • Cost: Entry to the shop is free. earliest known civilization, Yeha is home to a series of ruins dating from the eighth to

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19 sixth century BC, including the famous Great family, where you’ll meet Genet and her Temple (also called the Temple of the Moon), husband, George, a pharmacist in Aksum. The Ethiopia’s oldest standing structure. About 46 couple live together with Genet’s mother, and feet high, the Great Temple was constructed of have raised eleven children—a few of whom 10-foot stone blocks fit together tightly without still live in Aksum, while the rest have moved to mortar—which surely contributed to the Addis Ababa or abroad to the United States. Our structure’s preservation for 2,600 years. During small group size allows us to connect closely our time here, we’ll have the opportunity to and enjoy meaningful conversation about daily meet the priest and receive his blessing, then life in Aksum with multiple generations, for visit a small museum which houses some of a broader perspective on Ethiopian culture. the stone-carved inscriptions and pottery We might also be joined by the neighbors, recovered from the site. At about 11:15am, we’ll for an even livelier evening of cuisine and leave the site and return to Aksum. conversation.

Lunch: At our hotel in Aksum at During our visit, we’ll join our host in the around 12:30pm, featuring traditional kitchen for a crash course in Ethiopian cooking Ethiopian cuisine. as we help prepare the evening meal. Our dinner will consist of the type of traditional Ethiopian Afternoon: We’ll have about two hours to cuisine that a typical family would enjoy for relax or explore independently after lunch. At their daily meal, such as injera (flatbread), shiro approximately 3:30pm, we’ll board our private (chickpea stew flavored with onion, garlic, and motorcoach and drive to a local sesame oil spices), or locally-sourced free range chicken, extraction mill, arriving at around 4pm. We’ll beef, vegetables, and fruits. spend an hour at the site to learn more about this unique Ethiopian export; sesame oil is At around 6:30pm, we’ll bid our hosts farewell an important element of many local dishes, and return to our hotel via private motorcoach. and is one of the country’s top exports. At the Evening: Free to retire early to prepare for mill, we’ll talk with the workers and learning tomorrow’s flight or mingle at the hotel lounge about the ancient methods still practiced today with your fellow travelers. to extract the precious oil from the seeds. Although some factories now utilize machinery and other modern technology, sites like this Day 8 Fly to Lalibela • Visit one follow traditional techniques, using rock-hewn churches camels to spin the mortar and pestle, then • Destination: Lalibela hand-bottling the pressed oil to ready it for sale • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner in local markets. • Accommodations: Hotel Maribela or similar

Dinner: At around 5pm, we’ll walk to the Activity Note: Lalibela is at an altitude of nearby homes of local families, where we’ll approximately 8,500 feet, and travelers should split into smaller groups of no more than 5 and exercise caution while walking and hiking. enjoy a Home-Hosted Dinner. Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning at 7am. We’ll arrive at around 5:30pm and introduce ourselves to our hosts. Each of the families Morning: We’ll have a little time this morning we’ll be visiting live in typical single-family, to relax, pack, or do a little last-minute middle-class homes—such as the Kalaiyu independent exploration before our private

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20 motorcoach departs at around 10am, to take white-robed followers gather at these medieval us to the airport. We’ll arrive at the airport rock-hewn churches to chant prayers in around 10:30am, take a short flight (about unison. It is difficult not to be humbled by their 45 minutes) around noon to Lalibela, a unwavering devotion to their faith. Shortly mountain town situated about 200 miles after 5pm, we’ll depart the churches and head south of Aksum. Upon arrival, we’ll board back to our hotel. our private motorcoach around 1:30pm and Dinner: At about 6:30pm, we’ll enjoy an transfer to our hotel, checking in to our rooms included dinner at our hotel. at around 2pm. Depending on where we stay, our hotel should be located in the heart of the Evening: You’re free to enjoy the hotel Lalibela Mountains, overlooking the Ethiopian amenities or explore Lalibela on your own—you highlands. Amenities may include a restaurant, can ask your Trip Experience Leader for bar, and rooftop terrace. Typical rooms include suggestions. a balcony and private bath with hair dryer. Freedom To Explore: During your three nights Lunch: At about 2:15pm at our hotel, in Lalibela, you have the freedom to explore the featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes and city on your own during your free time. Below Western options. are recommended options for independent exploration: Afternoon: At around 3:15pm, we’ll begin our discoveries in Lalibela, a UNESCO World • Discover Asheton Maryam: This small Heritage Site that many consider one of the rock-hewn church dedicated to Saint Mary is most important religious sites in the Christian set on a mountain overlooking Lalibela. This world. Lalibela is home to 11 magnificent mountaintop setting boasts spectacular vistas Ethiopian Orthodox churches carved from the of the town and surrounding scenery—and top down out of a single volcanic rock some 900 the possibility of spotting Ethiopian wolves or years ago. Legend has it that the churches came troops of gelada baboons. At an elevation of to the twelfth-century King Lalibela in a dream about 10,000 feet, Asheton Maryam is one of that urged him to create a new Jerusalem out of the highest churches in Ethiopia. the solid rock where the town sat. Intertwined • How to get there: A 1-hour taxi ride, about and connected by a warren of tunnels, some $30 USD one way. churches were chiseled into the face of the rock; • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily others stand as isolated blocks, including the • Cost: About $10 USD. iconic church of Saint George (Ethiopia’s patron saint), which resembles a monolithic walk-in • Visit Adefa Village: Located in the valley Greek cross. outside of town, this village has a population of just 5,000 people, offering a glimpse of The complex is divided into two groups of day-to-day life in the Ethiopian countryside. churches—with each cluster representing Interact with the locals as they go through the earthly and heavenly forms of Jerusalem. At about 3:30pm we’ll visit the first church grouping. While we explore, we may feel as if we are transported far back in time, as Lalibela is a place of pilgrimage and devotion to this very day. Seven times a day, seven days a week,

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21 their daily routines, farming teff, barley, and wood, predates the rock-hewn churches of beans, chickpeas, and coffee, and tending to Lalibela by almost a century. As we explore the their livestock. church, you may notice the large pile of bones • How to get there: A 30-minute taxi ride, at the back of the cavern—they are the remains about $30 USD one way. of some 10,000 pilgrims who came here to die • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily over the centuries. We’ll hike back down to our • Cost: About $30 USD. vehicle and then drive back to Lalibela in time for lunch. • Travel to a bee-keeping farm: Head out into the countryside to visit an apiary and see how Lunch: At about 12:30pm at our hotel, Lalibela honey is harvested. Many consider featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes and Lalibela to produce the finest honey in the Western options. country, and you’ll have the opportunity to Afternoon: After some free time to relax, we’ll judge for yourself during a tasting. gather together at about 3:30pm to explore the • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, second group of churches in Lalibela. While about $8 USD one way. located very near the others, the rock-hewn • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily churches in this second grouping differ greatly • Cost: Entry to the farm is free. in architecture and style—and feature more intricate exteriors along with interconnecting Day 9 Explore Lalibela • Visit trenches and tunnels. Unlike other ancient Yemrehanna Kristos monuments such as Petra, what really sets • Destination: Lalibela these 900-year-old churches apart is that they • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner are still active and fully functioning places of • Accommodations: Hotel Maribela or similar worship. We’ll depart the site around 5:30pm and return to our nearby hotel. Activity Note: Reaching the entrance to Yemrehanna Kristos requires a brief hike of Dinner: Around 6:30pm at our hotel, approximately 15 minutes up steep terrain at an featuring traditional Ethiopian cuisine and altitude of about 9,000 feet. Western options.

Breakfast: Served at the hotel Evening: Free to enjoy on your own. You may beginning at 6am. wish to gather with fellow travelers and talk about the discoveries in this remote mountain Morning: At around 7:30am, we’ll depart our town that was conceived as a paradise on Earth. hotel for a drive of approximately 1.5 hours outside Lalibela to visit Yemrehanna Kristos, Day 10 A Day in the Life of Asheton Village an ancient cave church that is one of the lesser known treasures of the region. Along the way, • Visit Saint George’s Church • Cooking we’ll observe many pastoral scenes of rural demonstration & dinner in local home Ethiopia, passing by shepherds with their flocks • Destination: Lalibela and fields of teff gently swaying in the cool • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner highland breeze. Upon arrival, we’ll take a 10- • Accommodations: Hotel Maribela or similar to 15-minute hike up a steep hill to reach the Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we’ll trek entrance of the cave and church. The beautifully by mule to spend A Day in the Life of Asheton preserved Yemrehanna Kristos, built of stone village, a small community of about 300 people

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22 in the countryside near Lalibela. Our small lives in the village with his wife, where they’ve group size will allow us to connect closely with raised eight children and eleven grandchildren the village’s residents for a firsthand look at together—who we might have the honor to what life is like in a region that few Americans meet if they’re at the village during our visit. ever visit. Read more about this activity below. Upon arrival, we’ll hand over the groceries Breakfast: Served at the hotel beginning we purchased at the local market earlier at 6:30am. this morning, then spend about two hours in the village, getting to know its people. Morning: About 8:30am, we’ll board our Asheton village has a population of around private motorcoach to begin our A Day in the 300 people, and Yaregal’s deep connections Life experience, an exclusive opportunity to them will allow us to enjoy meaningful and offered only by O.A.T. to deeply connect with memorable people-to-people interactions, the villagers who call this region home. for an unfiltered look at what life is like in this Our day begins with a visit to a local market. off-the-beaten-path region of Ethiopia. We’ll Here, with the help of a few key phrases in also enjoy an intimate conversation about the Amharic (the official language of Ethiopia) history and traditions of the Amhara people, taught to us by our Trip Experience Leader, the cultural group that lives in this region of we’ll act like the locals do and go shopping for Ethiopia. produce and ingredients to bring with us to the As we walk around the grounds of the village, village we’ll be visiting later this morning. we’ll observe how the people of the village At around 9am, we trade our private spend their days, tending to the livestock and motorcoach for a team of sturdy mules, which farming staple crops such as teff, barley, and we’ll saddle and ride toward Asheton Village, beans. Because of our small group size, we’ll the ultimate destination of our A Day in the have the opportunity to truly connect with the Life experience. During our trek, which will people that we meet, and maybe even learn last about an hour, we’ll pass by other villages what it’s like to be in their shoes as we help out in the countryside, where we’ll see locals with chores around the village. going about their daily routines. With the aid At around 12pm, we’ll bid our new friends of our Trip Experience Leader, we’ll have the farewell, and board our private motorcoach to opportunity to stop and chat with the people return to our hotel in Lalibela. that we meet, for an unfiltered view of everyday life in the Ethiopian countryside. Lunch: Included at our hotel around 12:30pm, featuring Ethiopian and western cuisine. We’ll arrive at Asheton village around 10am, where we’ll meet our host, Yaregal Teshome, Afternoon: After some free time to relax, we’ll a pastor and beloved community leader. A meet up again at about 3:30pm for a 15-minute lifelong resident of the village, Yaregal spent private motorcoach ride to Bete Giyorgis—the eleven years as a volunteer cashier for the Church of Saint George. Lauded as the most village’s church, where his dedication to the beautiful church of Lalibela, Saint George’s is community impressed his neighbors so deeply instantly recognizable due to its perfect cross that they elected him as their community shape. In fact, this stand-alone church (not leader, entrusting him to lead the village into connected to the other ten in the area) looks a brighter future. Now in his sixties, Yaregal like a monolithic walk-in Greek cross. Of all the

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23 churches at Lalibela, Beta Giyorgis is the best Lunch: At the airport at around noon we’ll preserved—perhaps due to the protection of enjoy a boxed lunch that was prepared earlier its 6.5-foot-thick rock ceiling. Dated to the late and brought with us. 12th or early 13th century, it is also one of the Afternoon: Shortly before 1:30pm, we’ll take latest churches at the site. a 30-minute flight to Gondar, followed by We’ll conclude our visit to this iconic about a 3-hour drive to our lodge in the Simien church dedicated to Ethiopia’s patron saint Mountains. Depending on where we stay, shortly before 5pm and head to a local home our lodge may be within Simien Mountains where we’ll learn the secrets of making National Park, with a restaurant, bar, and Ethiopian injera during a hands-on cooking terrace. Typical rooms will be simply furnished, demonstration before sitting down to dine on and should include private bath. the fruits of our labor. Dinner: Around 6pm at our lodge Dinner: At a local home in Lalibela immediately featuring traditional Ethiopian cuisine and following our cooking demonstration. Western options.

Evening: We’ll arrive back at your hotel around Evening: Free to enjoy on your own. During 7:30pm, where your final night in Lalibela is these twilight hours, you may wish to gather free. You may wish to retire to your room early with fellow travelers on the terrace and take to prepare for tomorrow’s flight to the Simien in the beautiful views of the surrounding Mountains. mountains.

Freedom To Explore: During your two nights Day 11 Conversation with a in the Simien Mountains, you have the freedom female ex-military officer • Fly to to explore on your own during your free Simien Mountains time. Below are recommended options for • Destination: Simien Mountains independent exploration: • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Visit the staff quarters: Head to the nearby • Accommodations: Simien Lodge or similar village where our lodge’s staff lives to get to Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel know them a little better. Learn where they beginning at 7am. come from, and what it’s like to work in such a remote, high-altitude location, where the Morning: About 9:30am, we’ll depart Lalibela job can take you far from home for extended for our short flight to the Simien Mountains. periods of time. On the way to the airport, we’ll stop in the How to get there: A short walk from your humble home of a woman who is an ex-officer • lodge. in the Ethiopian military. We’ll hear her story Hours: All day. of how she fought against communists during • Cost: Free. the Ethiopian Civil War, learn about her life, • and ask her what it’s like for women who serve • Set off on a nature walk: Join a local guide in Ethiopia’s military. Then, we’ll arrive at the from the lodge on a walk around the sur- airport by about 11am. rounding area. Take advantage of their expert

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24 insights to learn about the plants, animals, Africa,” the Simien Mountain range has been and people who live in this remote region designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site both of Ethiopia. for its scenic splendor and rare wildlife. Massive • How to get there: Starts at the lodge. erosion over millions of years on the Ethiopian • Hours: All day. plateau has left behind a beautiful landscape • Cost: Free. dotted by deep ravines, sharp precipices, and jagged peaks rising up to 15,000 feet. • Watch a documentary about gelada baboons: This curious species of monkey can only be Wildlife enthusiasts will love it here, as Simien found in this highland region of Ethiopia. teems with a variety of extremely rare animals, You’re likely to see troops of them during including the Simien fox and the Walia ibex, your adventure, and this informative docu- a goat found nowhere else in the world. mentary will help further your understanding Sometimes called “monkey mountain,” the of this unusual creature and its behavior. Simien range is home to large troops of geladas, • How to get there: At the lodge. a gregarious species of Old World monkey • Hours: All day. found only in the Ethiopian Highlands. They • Cost: Free. are adorned with exaggerated hairstyles and colorful noses, chests, and … yes, rumps.

Day 12 Explore Simien Mountains Lunch: At about 11:30am, we’ll enjoy a picnic Controversial Topic: National Park • lunch amidst the beautiful mountain scenery. Sexism in traditional Ethiopian culture with Yeshareg and Ato Afternoon: Around 12:30pm, we’ll embark on a two-hour drive through the mountain range, • Destination: Simien Mountains taking in the scenery hidden behind every • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner turn of the road, before returning to the lodge. • Accommodations: Simien Lodge or similar Your afternoon is free to explore the grounds Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today we’ll learn of the lodge or go further afield to enjoy the about a Controversial Topic: gender inequality beauty of the dramatic mountain scenery that in Ethiopia. Although the country elected its surrounds us. first female president in 2018, and women At 5pm, we’ll regroup at the lodge for a are increasingly represented in government, conversation about a Controversial Topic: many believe that women’s rights are lagging sexism in Ethiopia. Although Ethiopia currently far behind the rest of the world. We’ll speak has a female president, and women make to two locals to get a contrasting view of how up 38% of her cabinet, the roots of gender Ethiopians view the relationship between the inequality in Ethiopian culture run deep, sexes, and about how much progress needs to and many believe that the administration be made to create an ideal society. Read more isn’t doing enough to close the gap between about this activity below. the sexes. Breakfast: Served at the lodge beginning We’ll learn about this complicated subject at 6:30am. during an hour-long conversation with two Morning: Around 7:30am, we’ll begin our local people (subject to their availability). First, trek to witness some of the most breathtaking we’ll speak to Yeshareg Zerihun, a woman scenery in Africa. Known as the “Roof of in her forties who works as a government

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25 administrator for the women’s affairs office in raising children while their husbands are at Gondar. She’ll speak about her own experiences work, and cooking the family meals. Despite as an Ethiopian woman, and about the many their role in maintaining the household, forms of discrimination she has seen in her women are denied the opportunity to own capacity as a government official. Yeshareg has property—even in the event of death or divorce, dedicated her career to helping local women male heirs of the family are given priority overcome discrimination to gain their rights to inherit over the women who shoulder the in social, professional, and family spheres, burden of building the estate. and hopes to raise her two sons in a more Ethiopian women are also disproportionately equal society. denied full access to education; only half of We’ll also get a contrasting point of view when the girls who enroll in primary school achieve we meet Ato Kassahun, a father of four in his beyond a fifth grade education. They’re also sixties who holds a more conservative belief subject to arranged marriage, female genital about the relationship between the sexes. Ato mutilation (65% of Ethiopian women have is a strong believer in traditional Ethiopian survived it), and regular sexual, physical, and culture—in his view, there are some jobs more emotional abuse. suited to women, and some that are more ideal During our hour-long conversation, we’ll for men, and the gendered division of rights hear opposing firsthand perspectives about and labor has worked well for generations. He the struggles that women in Ethiopia face, and many like him believe that these cultural and about how much things should change in norms were established for a reason and have the future. Although Ethiopia elected its first been passed down for generations, and that female president, Sahle-Work Zewde, in 2018, there’s no need to radically alter them just and an increasing number of women occupy because of the increasingly globalized nature leadership positions in the government, many of society. Ethiopians are disillusioned and believe that We encourage you to keep an open mind and not enough progress is being made. We’ll speak listen for a deeper understanding of how to our guests for about 20 minutes, and then this difficult subject divides people within we’ll have the rest of the hour to ask questions Ethiopia, and to learn about the historic roots of our own. Our conversation will end around of the gender gap in this country. Traditional 6pm, and we’ll then have about 30 minutes to cultural beliefs dictate that women should be get ready for dinner. subordinate to men to ensure a well-ordered Dinner: Around 6:30pm at our lodge, society. This manifests in what many feel are featuring traditional Ethiopian cuisine and extreme and restrictive gender roles, especially Western options. in the country’s rural areas, which hold women back from pursuing opportunities for personal Evening: Free to relax at the lodge, enjoy a and social growth. cocktail in the lounge with members of your group, or retire to your room. Women are expected to do the hard work of maintaining a household while their husbands follow their careers; they spend their days carrying water and other heavy loads over long distances, grinding corn into flour by hand,

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26 Day 13 Overland to Gondar • if left untreated, along with a host of other Controversial Topic: Stigmatization of health issues—cause a substantial loss of women with fistulas in Ethiopia with dignity for their survivors. Many women who Mary, Semhar & Tekeba • Honey wine suffer from them find themselves shunned and making demonstration • Explore Gondar ostracized by their communities, left to fend for themselves and to cope with their condition on • Destination: Gondar their own with the limited resources available • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner to them. The Gondar Fistula Center opened its • Accommodations: Gondar Hills Resort doors in 1974, and to date, has helped to treat or similar more than 32,000 women at no charge—but more work remains to be done. Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: Today’s discoveries include a conversation about a Controversial We’ll discuss this difficult subject in depth Topic: The prevalence of obstetric fistulas in with three local people (subject to their Ethiopia, and the stigmatization that prevents availability). We’ll meet Mary Felike, a nurse women from receiving effective treatment. in her forties and single mother of two, who We’ll meet a nurse and a survivor to learn what has been working at the clinic for eight years. life is like for women who suffer from this During her tenure here, she has helped to treat condition, as well as a farmer who will offer many women from the surrounding region, and candid insights into traditional cultural values provides counseling to help them deal with the that deter Ethiopian women from seeking help. social stigma associated with the condition. Read more about this activity below. We’ll also meet Semhar Asefu, a women in her thirties who is a fistula survivor herself. Breakfast: Served at the lodge Although she recovered from the condition, the beginning at 6am. complications it caused during her pregnancy Morning: At about 8am, we’ll depart the claimed the life of her child, as well as her park and travel overland to Gondar, about a marriage—like thousands of other Ethiopian three-hour drive. women, her husband blamed her for the ordeal and divorced her. Semhar will be able to provide Along the way, we’ll make a stop at about a deeply personal perspective of the physical, 9:30am at the Gondar Fistula Center, a emotional, and social toll that fistulas take on medical clinic where we’ll have an hour-long Ethiopian women. conversation about a Controversial Topic affecting women in Ethiopia: obstetric fistulas Then, we’ll hear an alternative point of view caused during childbirth, and the stigma and when we meet Tekeba Gera, a farmer and father ostracization suffered by women who live of six in his fifties. Tekeba, like many other with them. Ethiopian men, holds a more conservative point of view on the subject, in which women are In developing countries like Ethiopia, where responsible for their own health and hygiene, teenage pregnancy is common, and fewer than and fistulas are a preventable condition that 30% of pregnancies are handled by medical women can avoid with proper care. In his view, professionals, obstetric fistulas are a regular women who suffer from the condition should occurrence, with more than 9,000 new cases hold only themselves accountable, and the each year. These injuries—ruptures in the birth rest of society owes them no duty to go out of canal which can render women incontinent their way to accommodate them. While this

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27 perspective may be unfamiliar and challenging Lunch: At around 1pm, we’ll have lunch at a to hear, we encourage you to keep an open mind local restaurant owned four Ethiopian sisters. and listen in order to gain a true understanding Afternoon: After our meal, at around 2pm, of how the stigma around fistula survivors has our hosts at the restaurant will show our small come to be, and how the subject divides the group how to make tej, a honey wine flavored Ethiopian people. with an indigenous herb much like hops that While many Ethiopians still adhere to is often made in Ethiopian homes. Just don’t traditional beliefs such as these, we’ll learn mistake the pleasant hue for orange juice—it about how local and international organizations packs a punch. are working to educate people and destigmatize Shortly after 2:30pm, we’ll embark on a drive fistulas, and to improve awareness and to begin exploring Gondar, royal capital of maternal health services to ensure survivors the Ethiopian Empire from the 17th to the receive the treatment or preventative care middle of the 19th century and famous for its that they need. Global advancements in 17th-century stone castles and fortresses that medical technology have made fistulas an evoke the feel of an African Camelot. In 1632, extremely treatable illness: The World Health King Fasilidas proclaimed that this previously Organization estimates that about 90% of obscure village would become the site of the patients can be cured with a $300 procedure. Empire’s new capital, and over the next 250 However, many Ethiopian women—especially years a succession of Ethiopian kings built a in remote rural regions—lack access to such series of stone castles and fortresses that still treatments. What’s more, many women decline occupy the heart of modern day Gondar. Known to seek treatment at all, fearing ostracization collectively as the Royal Enclosure or “Fasil from their husbands and communities if their Ghebbi,” the magnificent medieval palaces of condition becomes public knowledge. Gondar are recognized by UNESCO as a World Our guests will present their personal Heritage Site. We’ll visit Gondar Castle, the perspectives for about 20 minutes, and main structure in the Royal Enclosure which we’ll then have the remainder of the hour was inspired by the castles of medieval Europe. to ask questions of our own to further our We’ll return to our lodge by about 4:30pm. understanding of this controversial subject. Dinner: Around 6:30pm at our lodge, We’ll end our conversation at around 10:30am, featuring traditional Ethiopian cuisine and then we’ll board our private motorcoach and Western options. resume the drive to Gondar. At around 12pm, Evening: Free to explore on your own, enjoy the we’ll arrive at our lodge and check in to our lodge amenities, or retire to your room. rooms. Depending on where we stay, our lodge may be situated overlooking the town, and Freedom To Explore: During your two nights include a restaurant, bar, and swimming pool. in Gondar, you have the freedom to explore Typical rooms include a private bath. on your own during your free time. Below are recommended options for independent We’ll have about 30 minutes at the lodge exploration: to stretch our legs, then we’ll board our private motorcoach again and drive to a local • Visit a women’s craft workshop: This craft restaurant for lunch. center is staffed primarily by women afflicted with HIV, offering them the opportunity to

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28 train and develop pottery, arts and crafts, Day 14 Grand Circle Foundation small-scale agriculture, and other vocational visit: Azezo Primary School • Lunch in skills. Here, you can meet the CEO of the local home workshop to learn more about the organiza- • Destination: Gondar tion’s mission, and talk to the women at work. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, • Accommodations: Gondar Hills Resort about $10 USD one way. or similar • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. • Cost: Entry to the workshop is free. Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: We’ll visit Azezo Primary School today, a local school that is • Discover Debre Birhan Selassie Church: This supported in part by Grand Circle Foundation. small church in the center of Gondar might As we meet the friendly students and dedicated not look like much on the outside, but its faculty of the school, we’ll see how your travel interior is covered floor-to-ceiling with intri- dollars are helping to make a difference in cately painted images and murals. Take note the children’s lives. Read more about this of the painted ceiling, where the faces of 123 activity below. winged cherubs stare back at you, a reminder that God is always watching from above. Breakfast: Served at the lodge • How to get there: A 20-minute taxi ride, beginning at 6am. about $15 USD one way. Morning: We’ll depart our lodge around 8am • Hours: 8am-6pm daily. for a 30-minute drive to Azezo Primary School • Cost: Free. (when in session), a local government-funded • Visit a former Ethiopian Jewish Village: school, supported in part by Grand Circle Immerse yourself in Jewish history by visiting Foundation. the site of a village which was once home to a thriving population of Ethopian Jews. Facing Grand Circle Foundation discrimination in this country, most of them Azezo Primary School emigrated to Israel in the 1980s in the hopes Total donated: $600 of a better life, only to find themselves segre- Partner since: 2020 gated and set apart in their new home. • How to get there: A 10-minute taxi ride, We’ll arrive at about 9am, and meet the head about $10 USD one way. teacher, Alabachew Molla, a veteran educator • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. who has served at the school for more than ten • Cost: Free. years, to learn about the history and student population of the school, the education system of Ethiopia, and the types of subject matter that the children are expected to learn.

We’ll have some time to ask questions during our conversation, then head outside to the playground to meet some of the young students for ourselves. Their teacher will introduce the class to us, and we’ll have the opportunity to interact with them as we sing songs together,

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29 learn about their favorite subjects, help them cardamom), injera (spongy flatbread made with their schoolwork, and kick around a soccer with teff), and shiro (a spiced stew made from ball on the playground. ground chickpeas). We’ll also help grind the teff into flour, and learn about the important role Our time here also includes a tour of the school that coffee plays in Ethiopian culture as we help library, where we’ll talk with a few of the the woman of the house prepare and perform teachers on duty to hear about the difference the traditional coffee ceremony, used by locals that your travel dollar is helping to make in to welcome guests into their home. Once the their students’ lives. Grand Circle Foundation’s preparation is complete, we’ll sit down and partnership with the school began in 2020, enjoy a meal together, sharing home-cooked and has already helped to provide necessary cuisine and friendly conversation. school supplies to the 400 students who come to learn here. Future projects also include Afternoon: We’ll leave our hosts’ home at the installation of plumbing facilities to around 1pm, and drive back to our lodge, provide the students, staff, and faculty with arriving at about 1:30pm. The rest of the running water, toilet facilities, and classroom afternoon is free to stroll through Gondar on renovations—upgrades that are all made your own or relax at the lodge. possible because of the generosity of O.A.T. Dinner: At about 6:30pm at our lodge, travelers. featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes and After about an hour at the school, we’ll bid the Western options. students and faculty farewell, then board our Evening: Free to explore on your own, enjoy the private motorcoach around 10am to drive to our lodge amenities, or retire to your room. next destination, the home of a local resident where we’ll prepare a lunch to enjoy together. On the way, we’ll stop at a local market to shop Day 15 Overland to Bahir Dar • for ingredients, enjoying another opportunity Controversial Topic: Conflict between to practice the Amharic language skills taught Ethiopia and Egypt over the Nile River to us by our Trip Experience Leader. dam with Amanuel, Alelign & Mulugeta • Visit Bahir Dar market Lunch: At around 11:30am, we’ll arrive at the home of a local Tigrayan family, where we’ll • Destination: Bahir Dar spend the next hour and a half. The Tigrayan • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner people are another ethnic group of Ethiopia, • Accommodations: Kuriftu Resort & Spa descended from the ancient settlers who laid or similar roots in the Horn of Africa region around 1000 Exclusive O.A.T. Activity: We’ll learn about a BC. Our small group will spend about an hour Controversial Topic today when we join three and a half in the home of our host family, locals for a conversation about the ambitious getting to know them and their neighbors, and Grand Ethiopian Renaissance Dam—a project learning more about daily life in this region of which, if completed, will provide electricity to Ethiopia. 65 million Ethiopians, but will significantly Together, we’ll help prepare lunch using reduce neighboring Egypt’s access to the Nile the ingredients we purchased earlier. We’ll River. We’ll hear personal perspectives on how learn to make local specialties, including local people disagree about how Nile River ambasha (plain bread lightly sweetened with access should be managed between North

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30 African nations, and how this thorny political and Alelign Hulgize, a boat captain who makes issue threatens the stability of the region. Learn his living on Lake Tana, the source of the more about this activity below. Blue Nile. Both men believe that since these vital waters are within Ethiopian boundaries, Breakfast: Served at the lodge the government has the right to do what it beginning at 7am. needs to do in order to use it to provide for its Morning: Shortly after 8am, we’ll depart our people. While any downstream affects may hotel and travel overland to Bahir Dar, about a be unfortunate, Ethiopia’s citizens have basic 4-hour drive. We’ll arrive at our hotel at about utility needs that are going unmet, and Ethiopia noon and check in to our rooms. Depending on should be free to do what it needs to get the where we stay, our hotel will likely be situated nation on its feet. along the shores of Lake Tana, with amenities We’ll also meet Mulugeta Birhanu, another that include a restaurant, bar, and spa facilities. Ethiopian water engineer, who feels that the Typical rooms include air-conditioning, usage of the Nile’s life-giving waters is a minibar, and private bath. matter that transcends borders. She believes Bahir Dar (which means “by the sea” in that since the fate of the Nile affects the lives of Amharic) is a tropical town set along Lake Tana, all the people who depend on it as their primary source of the Blue Nile. Tana was well known source of water, the nations of the Nile Basin to the ancient Egyptians and Greeks—and even need to work together as partners to reach an now, the papyrus boats sailing along Ethiopia’s agreement in which all people can share in its largest lake evoke images of ancient Egypt. And bounty, rather than compete with each other at roughly 6,000 feet above sea level, Bahir Dar as rivals. is low-lying in Ethiopian terms and we’ll all be During our conversation with these three able to breathe easier during strolls along its locals, we’ll gain a deeper understanding of palm-lined streets. how attitudes in Ethiopia over water rights Lunch: At about 12:30pm at a local restaurant, are divided, and about the broader historical featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes. context from which these problems arose. Since the dawn of human civilization, the Nile has Afternoon: Enjoy a couple of hours of free time been the main source of water for this region to relax at the resort before gathering in the of North Africa, and the well-being of all the lounge at around 3:30pm for a conversation people of the Nile Basin depends on it. Disputes about a Controversial Topic: The dispute between countries over access to the Nile’s between Egypt and Ethiopia over access to the precious water have been the source of rocky Nile River, and the construction of an ambitious international relationships—a 20th-century hydroelectric dam that would dramatically treaty granting the lion’s share of Nile access to expand Ethiopia’s access to electricity, but shut Egypt and Sudan has been a source of grief for Egypt off from a significant amount of water. Ethiopia in recent history.

We’ll meet three local people (subject to their The newest controversy dividing these nations availability) who are connected to this issue is the planned construction of the Grand to get a personal perspective on how attitudes Ethiopian Renaissance Dam, an ambitious in this region are divided. First, we’ll speak to project that, if completed, will be the largest Amanuel Genetu, an Ethiopian water engineer hydroelectric power plant in Africa, and the who works on projects around the Nile Basin,

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31 seventh largest in the world. The dam would Freedom To Explore: During your two nights substantially expand Ethiopia’s energy grid, in Bahir Dar, you have the freedom to explore providing power to 65 million Ethiopians on your own during your free time. Below who previously have had little to no access are recommended options for independent to electricity. However, the boon to Ethiopia exploration: comes at a cost to Egypt—by cutting off the • Visit an arak distillery: Meet a local woman country’s access to the Nile, which supplies in her home, where she brews this potent, 90% of the nation’s water, the dam would anise-flavored liquor, one of the most pop- leave millions of Egyptians high and dry in ular alcoholic drinks in Ethiopia. You’ll learn the event of a drought. Ethiopia began work how it’s made, talk about its role in Ethiopian on the dam in July 2020, without first seeking culture, and try a taste for yourself. approval from Egypt or any other North African neighbors—while Ethiopia claims no • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk such approval is required, since the project is from your hotel. contained entirely within Ethiopian borders, • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. Egypt and others warn that the downstream • Cost: Entry to the distillery is free. consequences will threaten regional stability. • Discover the Bahir Dar fish market: Located on the shores of Lake Tana, the market is Our guests will spend about 20 minutes where locals come to buy and sell the bounty presenting their points of view, and we’ll then of the sea. Stroll amongst the stalls to see the have the remaining 40 minutes to ask questions variety of seafood on display, and chat with of our own to further our understanding of this the shoppers and vendors about daily life in controversy. We’ll enjoy a firsthand perspective Bahir Dar. on how local people feel about the issue, and how parties from both governments, as well as • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk the international community, are attempting from your hotel. to negotiate a compromise that all parties find • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. agreeable. • Cost: Free. • Visit a papyrus boat-maker: Lake Tana is the Our conversation will conclude at around only place in the world where these tradition- 4:30pm, then we’ll set off on bajajs al watercraft, woven from papyrus reeds and (three-wheeled vehicles similar to tuk-tuks) lashed together with rope, are still used daily to mingle with the locals at Bahir Dar’s local by local fisherman. Head down to the shore market. You’ll find everything imaginable at and watch an expert craftsman construct one this lively open-air market—from grains, of these old-fashioned vessels, and look out spices, and prayer blankets to live chickens over the water to see how local fishermen use and goats. We’ll return to our resort shortly them in their trade. before 6:30pm. • How to get there: About a 20-minute walk Dinner: At about 6:30pm at our lodge, from your hotel. featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes and • Hours: 8am-6pm, daily. Western options. • Cost: Free. Evening: Free to explore Bahir Dar on your own, enjoy evening views of the lake, or retire to your room.

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32 Day 16 Boat ride on Lake Tana • Explore Afternoon: The afternoon is free to pursue island monastery independent discoveries in Bahir Dar, perhaps to walk along the lake and enjoy the views • Destination: Bahir Dar during our final day in Ethiopia. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Kuriftu Resort & Spa Dinner: About 6pm at the resort, we’ll or similar celebrate our Ethiopian discoveries during a festive Farewell Dinner, featuring traditional Activity Note: During our boat ride to visit Ethiopian cuisine. one of the islands of Lake Tana, getting to the monastery will require a hike of up to a Evening: Free to explore Bahir Dar on your half-hour, sometimes over steep terrain. This own, relax with a cocktail in the lounge, or will be an active day. begin packing for tomorrow’s flight home.

Breakfast: Served at the lodge beginning at 7am. Day 17 Return flights to U.S. via Addis Ababa Morning: At about 8:30am, we’ll board a boat • Included Meals: Breakfast from the dock at our resort and head out onto Lake Tana. The peninsulas and islands of Lake Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the lodge Tana are dotted with ancient monastic churches beginning at 7am. that were hidden for centuries. Most date from Morning: Shortly after 8am, we’ll depart our the 16th and 17th centuries and have changed resort and head to the airport for a flight to little since their founding. Some believe that Addis Ababa. Upon arrival at around 12:30pm, the Ark of the Covenant was kept at one of these we’ll enjoy the services of a day room at a hotel remote monasteries before being transferred in Addis. to Aksum where it’s kept under guard near the Church of our Lady Mary of Zion. Lunch: On your own—ask your Trip Experience Leader for dining suggestions. We’ll visit one of these islands and hike for about a half hour to discover Ura Kidane Afternoon: Enjoy some free time to do some Mehret, a small monastery decorated with last minute shopping in Addis or to rest in your beautiful paintings and filled with treasures. day room for this evening’s flight.

At about 11:30am, we’ll return to our boat Evening: Depart to the airport at around 7pm and enjoy an hour-long ride along the waters for your return flight home, or begin your New! of Lake Tana, the source of the Blue Nile. As Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti we cruise, keep your eyes open for hippos, Safari or New! The Spice Island of Zanzibar pelicans, and other African wildlife that makes post-trip extension. its home here. After our boat ride ends, we’ll dock and return to the lodge, arriving at around 1pm.

Lunch: At about 1pm at the resort, featuring traditional Ethiopian dishes and Western options.

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33 END YOUR ADVENTURE WITH AN OPTIONAL POST-TRIP EXTENSION 6 nights in The Spice Island of Zanzibar

Day 1 Addis Ababa Day 4 Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park • Butterfly farm • Muslim Day 2 Addis Ababa • Fly to Zanzibar women in Zanzibar conversation • Day 3 Zanzibar • Explore Stone Town • Overland to Unguja Optional Cooking Lesson with a local Day 5 Menai Bay boat cruise family • Sunset cruise Day 6 Spice plantation visit Day 7 Visit a local Muslim family • Fly to Addis Ababa • Return to U.S.

OR 7 nights in Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti Safari

Day 1 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Day 5 Transfer to Serengeti National Park • Visit Oldupai Gorge Day 2 Fly to Tanzania • Overland to Karatu Day 6 Morning and afternoon Serengeti Day 3 Full day game-viewing drive in game-viewing drives Ngorongoro Crater Day 7 Optional Sunrise Safari & Hot Air Day 4 Hadzabe & Datoga village visits • Balloon Ride • Serengeti game drives Controversial Topic: Alcoholism in Karatu Day 8 Fly to Arusha • Return to U.S.

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34 PRE-TRIP Kenya: Mount Kenya National Park & Sweetwaters Game Reserve

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations: 1 night in Nairobi at » 15 meals—6 breakfasts, 5 lunches, the Tamarind Tree Hotel or similar, 2 and 4 dinners nights in Mount Kenya National Park at » 7 small group activities, including up to 4 the Serena Mountain Lodge or similar, 2 game-viewing drives nights in Sweetwaters National Park at » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Experience the Sweetwaters Serena Tented Camp or Leader and driver-guides similar, and 1 night in Addis Ababa at the Radisson Blu Hotel or similar » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and luggage porters » All transfers

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Begin your Ethiopian adventure in the dense rainforests at the foothills of Mount Kenya. Walk through the lush, verdant green canopies to spot some of Africa’s more unique species. Then travel to the sprawling plains of Ol Pejeta Conservancy to discover the legendary wildlife on exclusive game-viewing drives—perhaps even spotting the famed “Big Five.” Our unique lodgings will offer up-close, one-of-kind viewings of the African wilderness without the crowds.

Day 1 Fly to Washington D.C. Day 3 Arrive in Addis Ababa and fly to • Accommodations: Hilton Washington Dulles Nairobi, Kenya Airport Hotel or similar • Destination: Nairobi Some travelers will fly from their home city • Accommodations: Tamarind Tree Hotel to Washington D.C. later today. If Washington or similar D.C. is already your gateway city, you will Morning: After an early morning arrival into likely depart directly from there early in the Addis Ababa, you will board an internal flight to morning on Day 2. Nairobi, Kenya.

Day 2 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Afternoon: You will be greeted at the airport by an O.A.T. representative and then make You will depart today for your overnight flight the 30-minute transfer from the airport to from the U.S. to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. the Nairobi hotel. Depending on where we stay, hotel amenities will most likely include a restaurant, bar, and coffee shop. Room

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35 amenities will likely feature wireless Internet, wildlife and environment, as well as provide safe, flat screen TV, mini-bar, and private an opportunity to get up close with these lofty bath. After checking in, you will have some creatures. While here, keep an eye out for free time to get acquainted with our new hotel, one of the 10 Rothschild Giraffe’s under the or perhaps you’ll start to make some local center’s care, Daisy IV—who was named after discoveries on your own. the first giraffe at the center, Daisy.

Dinner: On your own—dine at the hotel • How to get there: A 25- to 30-minute taxi restaurant or ask your Trip Experience Leader ride, about $25 USD one way. about suggested local fare. • Hours: 10am-5pm, daily. • Cost: About $10 USD to be paid through a Evening: Free for your own discoveries. Your local phone-based money transfer service. Trip Experience Leader will be happy to share Your Trip Experience Leader can assist you their recommendations. with this fee.

Freedom To Explore: During your overnight • Explore the Karen Blixen Museum: Stroll stay in Nairobi, you have the freedom to through Nairobi’s vibrant Karen neigh- explore the city on your own during your free borhood—named for Karen Blixen, the time. Below are recommended options for famed author of 1937’s Out of Africa—before independent exploration: stepping into this farmhouse-style museum. The Danish writer, as she put it, owned “a • Browse the impressive collection at Kazuri farm in Africa, at the foot of the Ngong Hills” Beads: Learn about these colorful, handmade and lived there from 1914 to 1931. The Danish beads created by disadvantaged women in government gave her beautiful house to the Kenya. The ceramic beads are designed and country of Kenya upon its independence in painted by hand, and crafted into a wide 1964, and it was converted into a national variety of jewelry, including statement neck- museum in 1986—the same year Out of laces, available for purchase. Africa’s film adaptation won Best Picture at • How to get there: A 25- to 30-minute taxi the Academy Awards. As you wander through ride, about $25 USD one way. the museum, you’ll see much of Blixen’s • Hours: 9am-5pm, Monday-Saturday. original period furniture and get a fascinating • Cost: Free. glimpse into the lives of early 20th-century Kenyan settlers. Afterwards, be sure to stroll • Get up close with the world’s tallest species through the property’s expansive gardens, at the Giraffe Center: Inspired by the plight surrounded by indigenous forest and sweep- of the Rothschild Giraffe—a subspecies only ing views of Karen’s beloved Ngong Hills. found in the grasslands of East Africa—Jock and Betty Leslie-Melville created the center • How to get there: A 25- to 30-minute taxi as part of the African Fund for Endangered ride, about $25 USD one way. Wildlife (A.F.E.W. Kenya). At the time of its • Hours: 8am-5pm, daily. inception in 1979, this sub-species had lost • Cost: About $15 USD. their habitat in Western Kenya, with only 130 of them left on an 18,000-acre ranch. Today, along with conservation efforts, this non-profit’s main purpose is to teach local and international visitors about the country’s

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36 Day 4 Fly via Nairobi to Mount Kenya • Evening: You’re free to relax and get settled Walk to a local village into your cabin or share your insights with other travelers in the common area. • Destination: Mount Kenya National Park • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Day 5 Nature walk in Mount Kenya • Accommodations: Serena Mountain Lodge National Park or similar • Destination: Mount Kenya National Park Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner starting at 6:30am with regional and American • Accommodations: Serena Mountain Lodge options available. or similar Morning: Around 7:30am, we’ll depart for the Breakfast: Served at 8am featuring regional local airport to check-in for our 1-hour flight and American options. to Nanyuki. We’ll arrive into Nanyuki—the gateway to Mount Kenya’s wilderness—around Morning: Around 9am, we will depart the lodge 10:30am and shortly thereafter we will make a for a 2-hour guided nature walk through the 1-hour transfer to our lodging. The lodge will Mount Kenya forest. We may spot a variety of feel like a traditional Kikuyu (Bantu-speaking bird species, varying members of the antelope indigenous people located near Mount Kenya) family, and some unique animals like the black home with hand-woven wall hangings, and white colobus monkey, sykes monkey, soft lighting, and cozy furnishings. Each olive baboon, genet cat, and many more. All cabin-inspired room may include wireless the while, our local guide will walk us through Internet, a private balcony, a private bath, and the story of Kenya’s independence. As the walk hot shower. draws to a close, enjoy the curative properties of a traditional Dawa treat—meaning medicine Lunch: Served at the lodge around noon in Swahili—to keep yourself warm. featuring a wide range of international choices. Lunch: Around 1:30pm, lunch will be served Afternoon: Shortly after lunch, we will enjoy at the lodge featuring international and some down time on the porch to watch animals, local dishes. such as waterbucks or elephants, graze and drink from the watering hole just outside our Afternoon: You are free to spend some time lodge’s doors. You may choose to lounge here, on your own this afternoon. Perhaps you’ll or return to your room to rest up before we take the opportunity to retire to your room journey off the beaten path for a walk to a local or sit on the terrace and take in the sight of village around 4pm. Our small group will allow wildlife roaming the waterhole. Around 4pm, us authentic, intimate glimpses into the local there will be another chance to discover your customs. At 6pm, we will return to the lodge surroundings during an elective nature walk for dinner. around the lodge. Upon return, maybe you’ll choose to enjoy a “sundowner,” or evening Dinner: Around 7pm, dinner will be served cocktail, as the sun sets over the Mount Kenya featuring traditional Kenyan food sourced from rainforest. the communities that surround the mountain. Dinner: At the lodge featuring traditional Kenyan cuisine and international options around 7pm.

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37 Evening: On your own—you are free to return migration routes, and where human and animal to your room or relax with fellow travelers and interests collide, bloodshed and economic loss share your African discoveries. have been the result.

Lions and elephants are the main culprits—in Day 6 Transfer to Sweetwaters Game the past 7 years, more than 200 people in the Controversial Topic: Reserve • region have been killed in wildlife attacks, Human and wildlife conflict outside of and in turn, elephants have become frequent Sweetwater targets of poachers and local officials alike. • Destination: Sweetwaters Game Reserve Kenya wildlife authorities estimate that • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner between 50 and 120 elephants are killed each year. In addition to the death toll, economic • Accommodations: Sweetwaters Serena devastation runs rampant; elephants frequently Tented Camp or similar destroy fences and crops, while lions, leopards, Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the and hyenas often sneak into cattle enclosures, lodge at 8am. devastating the livelihoods of local farmers who lose their stock. The situation has become Morning: Around 9am, we will depart for hostile enough that many local farmers our new lodging and arrive around 11am. This question whether the benefits of preserving the tented camp will be amidst the breathtaking local wildlife are worth the human cost. beauty of Kenya’s Ol Pejeta Conservancy—a rhino sanctuary. Lodge amenities include We’ll speak with a local expert about this restaurant, bar, and swimming pool. Each problem for about an hour. They’ll share their thatched tent features electricity and an en perspective with us for about 20 minutes, then suite bathroom. we’ll have the remainder of the time to dig deeply into the issue and ask questions about Lunch: Around noon, we’ll enjoy international how local opinion about wildlife preservation is cuisine at the lodge. divided, and what type of solutions have been Afternoon: After lunch enjoy some downtime attempted to satisfy the populace. before joining a local expert at the lodge for a At around 3pm, we head out on our first conversation about a Controversial Topic: The game-viewing drive around 3pm. During challenge of balancing human development our drive, we may spot elephants, zebras, with wildlife preservation in the territory antelopes, buffalo, and many other species. surrounding the Sweetwaters conservancy. Your game drives will be led by driver guides While the lands within Sweetwaters Game with an expertise in spotting the best locations Reserve are a protected territory, where the to see wildlife. We will return to the lodge needs of the local wildlife are given the utmost around 6pm. priority, the situation beyond the conservancy’s Dinner: The lodge will have a variety of borders is far more volatile. The region international dishes served at 7pm. surrounding Sweetwaters is experiencing a wave of economic growth, with towns and Evening: This evening will be on your own farmlands being developed at a rapid rate. to provide a chance for you to relax or talk Unfortunately, much of this development with your fellow travelers about your African is taking place within the path of wildlife experience so far.

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38 Day 7 Morning game-viewing drive • Tour Day 8 Morning game-viewing drive • Fly to Goodall Chimpanzee Sanctuary • Night Addis Ababa, Ethiopia, via Nairobi game-viewing drive • Destination: Addis Ababa • Destination: Sweetwaters Game Reserve • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel • Accommodations: Sweetwaters Serena or similar Tented Camp or similar Early Morning: We will depart around 6am for Breakfast: Breakfast will be served at the camp a morning game-viewing drive. We will have at 6:30am with local and international choices. coffee, tea, and light snacks before we set out to discover more species. We will return to the Morning: We’ll depart the lodge around camp around 9am. 7:30am on a morning game-viewing drive. This game viewing will allow you to see different Breakfast: Served at the lodge around 9:30am species that were not stirring during our with local and international dishes. afternoon drive. We will return to the lodge Morning: Around 10:30am, we will head to around 12:30pm. the airport to catch a 40-minute flight back Lunch: Enjoy international dishes from the to Nairobi. lodge around 12:30pm. Lunch: Will be served buffet-style at a local Afternoon: You will have some free time Nairobi hotel around 1:30pm featuring following lunch to rest up or enjoy a drink in international dishes. the camp lounge. Then, around 4pm, we will Afternoon: Around 2:30pm, we will depart for receive an exclusive opportunity to learn more the airport for a 2-hour flight to Addis Ababa, about the day-to-day life of chimpanzees Ethiopia. You will be met at the airport by your at the Jane Goodall Chimpanzee Sanctuary. Trip Experience Leader, and you will transfer Learn the intimate beginnings of the sanctuary to the hotel arriving around 9pm. Depending and discover the daring risks Jane Goodall on where we stay, the hotel will likely feature a took to get close to the little-known world of restaurant, bar, spa, and fitness center. Room chimpanzees. Jane, a solo traveler, ventured amenities typically include air-conditioning, from England to Tanzania in the 1960s to satellite TV, minibar, and private bath. immerse herself in the lives of these species. We will listen, learn, and get an intimate glimpse Dinner: On your own—you may choose to eat at into the lives of these primates. We will then the hotel restaurant or ask your Trip Experience return to the camp around 5:30pm. Leader for a suggested local spot. Given our late arrival into Addis Ababa, dinner will be after Dinner: Featuring local and international 9pm this evening. dishes at the camp around 6pm. Evening: You have the freedom to explore Evening: Around 7pm, we will depart the lodge on your own this evening. Ask your Trip for a unique night game-viewing drive. An Experience Leader for some recommendations. expert guide will lead you on an after-hours exploration of the wilderness where you may spot some elusive animals scurrying through the bush.

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39 Day 9 Join main trip • Destination: Addis Ababa • Included Meals: Breakfast

Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel around 8:30am featuring international options.

Morning: You will meet with the rest of your fellow travelers who are joining you on your New! Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land adventure.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

40 PRE-TRIP Uganda Discoveries: Mountain Gorillas of Bwindi & Queen Elizabeth National Park

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations: 1 night in Entebbe at » 3 small group activities and 3 safari the Boma Hotel or similar, 2 nights in game drives Bwindi at Engagi Lodge, and 3 nights in » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Queen Elizabeth National Park at Kasenyi Experience Leader Safari Camp » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 16 meals—6 breakfasts, 5 lunches, luggage porters and 5 dinners » All transfers

PRE-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Start your discoveries on the African continent with a journey to Uganda, and encounter families of mountain gorillas in Bwindi Impenetrable Forest, glimpse the wildlife of the savannah on game drives in Queen Elizabeth National Park, and cruise down the Kazinga Channel in search of floating hippos.

Day 1 Depart U.S. Dinner: On your own—dine at the hotel restaurant or ask your Trip Experience Leader You will depart today for your overnight flight about suggested local fare. from the U.S. to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia. Evening: Free for your own discoveries. Your Day 2 Arrive in Addis Ababa, Ethiopia • Fly Trip Experience Leader will be happy to share to Entebbe, Uganda their recommendations. • Destination: Entebbe Day 3 Fly to Bwindi • Controversial Topic: • Accommodations: The Boma Hotel or similar The Rise and Fall of Idi Amin Morning: After an early morning arrival into • Destination: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest Addis Ababa, you will board another flight to • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Entebbe, Uganda. • Accommodations: Engagi Lodge or similar Afternoon: You will be greeted at the airport in Breakfast: At the hotel, early this morning. Entebbe by an O.A.T. representative and then transfer from the airport to your hotel. After Morning: We’ll transfer to the Entebbe Airport checking in, you will have the rest of the day for our early morning flight to Bwindi. Upon free to settle in or explore independently. arrival, we’ll transfer to our lodge in Bwindi’s

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41 Impenetrable Forest. Take some time to rest Dinner: At the lodge. and freshen up after your journey once we Evening: Free to spend how you wish. check in.

Lunch: At the lodge. Day 5 Overland to Queen Elizabeth Afternoon: We’ll take part discussing a National Park • Afternoon Controversial Topic—The Rise and Fall of game-viewing drive Idi Amin, the country’s infamous former • Destination: Queen Elizabeth National Park president known as the “Butcher of Uganda” • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and considered to be one of most brutal despots • Accommodations: Kasenyi Safari Camp in history. Then we’ll take a walk through the or similar local village with our Trip Experience Leader. Breakfast: At the lodge. Later, back at the lodge, we’ll receive a briefing from a park ranger about tomorrow’s activity: Morning: Today we will check out of our lodge gorilla trekking. We’ll go over the various safety and journey overland to Queen Elizabeth details we’ll need to know before our excursion. National Park, keeping an eye out for local wildlife along the way. We’ll check into our Dinner: At the lodge. camp just before lunch and get settled in.

Evening: Free to spend how you wish. Lunch: At the camp.

Afternoon: We’ll have around 2 hours of free Day 4 Gorilla trekking in Bwindi time after lunch, then we will set out on an Impenetrable Forest National Park afternoon game drive in the park for a chance • Destination: Bwindi Impenetrable Forest to see different animals like buffalos, leopards, • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner and elephants. After a 3-hour excursion, we’ll • Accommodations: Engagi Lodge or similar return to our camp.

Breakfast: At the lodge. Dinner: At the camp.

Morning: Board a private motorcoach this Evening: Free to spend how you wish. morning and set off for Bwindi Impenetrable Forest National Park to begin a morning of Day 6 Morning game drive • Cruise along incredible discoveries during our mountain the Kazinga Channel gorilla trekking experience. Skilled trackers have gone ahead of us to locate a good spot to • Destination: Queen Elizabeth National Park visit one of the park’s populations of mountain • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner gorilla families. There are only around 500 • Accommodations: Kasenyi Safari Camp mountain gorillas living in the forest today. or similar

We will spend a few hours here trekking before Breakfast: At the camp. driving back to our lodge. Morning: Get another chance to glimpse Lunch: At the lodge. the wildlife of Queen Elizabeth National Park—perhaps sighting giraffes, lions, or Afternoon: Free to explore how you wish. antelopes.

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42 Lunch: At the camp. Day 8 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia

Afternoon: Our private motorcoach will via Entebbe take us to a docking site along the Kazinga • Included Meals: Breakfast Channel. From here, we’ll embark on a boat Breakfast: At the camp. cruise down the channel. This cruise gives us the opportunity to see Uganda’s wildlife from Morning: We will drive by private motorcoach another perspective. The channel attracts all to the airstrip, where we’ll fly to Entebbe. After manner of species, such as buffalos, antelopes, landing in Entebbe, we’ll board another flight crocodiles and—of course—hippos. to Addis Ababa.

Dinner: At the camp. Lunch: On your own at the airport or onboard your flight. Evening: Free to spend how you wish. Afternoon: We’ll land in Addis Ababa this Day 7 Lake Katwe salt extraction site visit afternoon and transfer to our hotel, where we’ll • Afternoon game drive begin our New! Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries in an Ancient Land adventure. • Destination: Queen Elizabeth National Park • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience • Accommodations: Kasenyi Safari Camp Leader can recommend a restaurant. or similar Evening: Free to spend how you wish. Breakfast: At the camp.

Morning: After breakfast, we’ll drive to Lake Katwe, a crater lake situated inside Queen Elizabeth National Park. While several streams flow into the lake, it does not have an outlet, so the intense evaporation during the dry season leads the lake water becoming extremely salty. Today we will learn how locals extract precious salt from the lake, using methods that have remained unchanged for decades.

After a tour of the site and a visit to the nearby village, we’ll drive back to our camp.

Lunch: At the camp.

Afternoon: After some free time, we’ll head back out into Queen Elizabeth National Park for an afternoon game drive.

Dinner: At the camp.

Evening: Free to spend how you wish.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

43 POST-TRIP The Spice Island of Zanzibar

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Airfare between Addis Ababa and Zanzibar » 6 small group activities » Accommodations for 1 nights in Addis » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip Ababa at the Radisson Blu Hotel or similar, Experience Leader 2 nights in Stone Town at the Maru Maru » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and Hotel or similar, and 3 nights in Unguja at luggage porters the Unguja Lodge or similar » All transfers » 12 meals—5 breakfasts, 3 lunches, and 4 dinners

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Once known as the “Spice Islands,” the Zanzibar archipelago sits 25 miles off the Tanzanian coast. We’ll explore its unique heritage in Stone Town, a UNESCO World Heritage Site, and on an excursion to a spice plantation. We’ll also encounter everyday life in this autonomous region of Tanzania, when we take a hands-on lesson from local musicians, and immerse ourselves in the island’s kaleidoscope of cultures and unique wildlife.

Day 1 Addis Ababa Day 2 Addis Ababa • Fly to Zanzibar • Destination: Addis Ababa • Destination: Stone Town • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner or similar • Accommodations: Maru Maru Hotel Activity Note: Because there is only one flight or similar a day from Addis Ababa to Zanzibar, we will Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel spend the first night of our trip extension in beginning at 6am, featuring Ethiopian and Addis Ababa. international selections.

Evening: After bidding farewell to our Morning: Around 7am, we’ll leave for the fellow travelers from our main adventure, airport, about a 30-minute drive from our hotel. we’ll settle into our hotel for the night. You Our flight to Zanzibar is scheduled to depart may wish to visit the bar for a nightcap, or around 10:30am and takes approximately retire to your room to prepare for our flight 2.5 hours. tomorrow morning. Lunch: On your own. You may want to pick something up at the airport to enjoy during our flight.

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44 Afternoon: After arriving in Zanzibar around • Visit a group of women who specialize in tra- 1pm, clearing customs, and collecting our ditional African hairstyles at Fumba Beach: belongings, we’ll board a bus bound for Stone Here, you’ll spend time at a local home where Town, about 20 minutes from the airport. the women will show you their process for Located in the oldest section of Zanzibar City, plaiting, the basis for a plethora of unique Stone Town is a warren of winding alleys hairstyles for African women. They’ll also and tight turns. As such, our bus will drop give you insight into the meticulous process us off a few blocks from our hotel, and we’ll of creating henna tattoos, which are popular continue the rest of the way on foot—about a in Zanzibar for special occasions like festivals 10-minute walk. and weddings. Perhaps you’ll get to pick out a henna tattoo of your own during your visit. We stay for two nights in our centrally-located hotel. Depending on which hotel you stay at, it • How to get there: An approximate 15-min- may feature an outdoor swimming pool, onsite ute walk from the hotel. dining options, and a fitness center. Typical • Hours: Daily. rooms include a minibar, safe, air conditioning, • Cost: About $15 USD per person. complimentary Wi-Fi, and a private en suite • Watch this staple park locale quite literally bathroom. transform overnight when you stroll through the night market at Forodhani Gardens: After receiving your room assignment, you may Every evening, Forodhani Gardens becomes wish to spend the remainder of the afternoon a sensory wonderland as an open-air market settling in. Or enjoy approximately 3 hours of fills the area with the scents of fresh fish and free time to begin exploring Stone Town on kebabs and the sights of colorful fruits and your own. vegetables. From traditional Zanzibar pizzas Dinner: At approximately 6:30pm, we’ll to sweet juices made with ginger, a world of re-convene at the hotel’s rooftop, poolside culinary options is at your fingertips. restaurant, which affords panoramic views • How to get there: An approximate of Stone Town below. There, we’ll enjoy a 10-minute walk from the hotel. Welcome Dinner together. You might like to • Hours: Daily, after dusk. try a dish from the internationally-inspired • Cost: Free. kitchen, which is noted for its Swahili, Indian, • Discover giant tortoises on Prison and Chinese offerings. A more familiar option Island: Explore this small island in the com- will also be available. pany of a local guide to discover the endan- Evening: The remainder of the evening is gered giant tortoises who make their home yours. You might choose to have a drink at the there, take a walk on the beach, and learn hotel bar, or return to your room to relax in about the history of rebellious slaves in the anticipation of tomorrow’s discoveries. 1890s. For those feeling particularly adven- turous, there is also the option to snorkel off Freedom To Explore: During your five days in Zanzibar, you have the freedom to explore the “Spice Island” on your own during your free time. Below are a couple recommended options for independent explorations:

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

45 the shores of the scenic island. The boat ride vendors—perhaps a fisherman or another to prison island is about 30 minutes one-way, tradesman—to learn about the economy of the and a typical visit can last around 3 hours. market firsthand.

• How to get there: A 30- to 45-minute taxi From there, we’ll continue on to the nearby ride, about $50 USD one-way, followed by Gothic cathedral known as Christ Church. Built a boat ride. at the end of the 19th century, it’s one of the • Hours: 9am-4:15pm, daily. oldest examples of early Christian architecture • Cost: About $5 USD. in East Africa—and the first Anglican cathedral in the region. Perhaps more significantly, it was Day 3 Zanzibar • Explore Stone Town • built on the site where Zanzibar’s slave market Optional Cooking Lesson with a local once stood, and many elements of the church’s family • Sunset cruise design commemorate the men and women • Destination: Stone Town whose lives were destroyed by the slave trade. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Dinner We’ll travel further back in time when we • Accommodations: Maru Maru Hotel witness the Arab fort, which was build by or similar Omanis in 1698 after they took control of Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel Zanzibar from the Portuguese. Our tour beginning at 6am, featuring local and concludes around 11am at the Palace Museum, international selections. which was originally built for Zanzibar’s Arab Sultan and now houses historical artifacts and Morning: Around 7:30am, we will meet our memorabilia from Zanzibar’s royal family. local guide and set off on an included walking tour of Stone Town, one of the most ancient Lunch: On your own. You might return to a towns in East Africa. The cultural hub of restaurant you spotted during our walking tour, Zanzibar Island, Stone Town appears to have or simply ask your Trip Experience Leader for been frozen in time two centuries ago, when recommendations. Zanzibar was at its peak as an Indian Ocean Travelers who choose to join our optional trading center. Along its narrow streets, we’ll cooking lesson will enjoy an included lunch view a blend of empires, from Persian and featuring Zanzibar’s creative cuisine. Portuguese to Omani and British—all with touches of the native Swahili culture. Afternoon: You will have plenty of opportunities to get acquainted with Stone Our first stop is Darajani Market, one of the Town’s treasures during your free afternoon. most popular bazaars on the island. Known Spend more time admiring the treasures at locally as Marikiti Kuu (Main Market), Darajani the Palace Museum, or delve into the history buzzes with activity every morning as locals vie of Zanzibar at the Peace Memorial Museum. for the freshest meat, seafood, and produce. As Return to the late 17th-century Arab fort you stroll through the maze of wooden stalls to marvel at its ramparts and browse its during your hour-long visit, you’ll witness a shops. Or head to the House of Wonders and huge variety of exotic delicacies—from spiny the Old Dispensary to learn more about the lychee fruit to expensive strands of saffron. island’s history. You’ll also have the chance to meet with local

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46 Or, at around noon, our Optional Tour will Day 4 Jozani Chwaka Bay National begin. After a short walk to a local home in Park • Butterfly farm • Muslim Stone Town, a Zanzibari family will teach women in Zanzibar conversation • you how to prepare signature dishes from Overland to Unguja the region, including biryani (a rice casserole hailing from India), mseto (a Swahili mung • Destination: Unguja bean porridge), and wali (coconut rice). You’ll • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner learn how to incorporate different spices into • Accommodations: Unguja Lodge or similar the meal you prepare and will dine on your Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel creations, savoring the complex local flavors. beginning at 6am, featuring local and The Optional Tour concludes around 2pm, at international selections. which time we’ll walk back to our hotel, about 10 minutes away. Morning: Around 8am, we begin our transfer to the southwestern coast. We’ll walk about Around 4pm, we’ll re-convene for an ten minutes to our bus, which will then approximate 30-minute walk to the beach. depart to Jozani Chwaka Bay National Park, Upon arrival, we’ll embark on a sunset cruise on approximately 1 hour away. Jozani Chwaka a traditional dhow sailboat where you can relax Bay is Zanzibar’s only national park and with included drinks and snacks. During this the only place in the world to spot the red 1.5-hour cruise, you’ll have the chance to watch colobus monkey. the various fishing boats as they’re leaving for the night and, if weather permits, you’ll see the Arriving around 9:30am, we’ll walk along sun sink behind the sea. raised boardwalks among mangrove trees and discover various coastal flora, fauna, Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience and wildlife, including the fiddler crab. At Leader will be happy to recommend restaurant approximately 11:30am, we’ll continue our options. If you’re in the mood for something discoveries with a short walk to the nearby traditional, seek out a bowl of mchuzi wa butterfly garden, a netted farm which pweza (octopus curry), which is especially consists of a tropical garden with hundreds popular here. of butterflies. Here, we’ll learn about the life Evening: You’re free to spend the remainder cycle of these beautiful insects, all of which are of the evening exploring Stone Town native to the island of Zanzibar. Throughout our independently, or preparing for our transfer to activities today, we’ll be in the company of our Unguja beach tomorrow. Trip Experience Leader as well as local guides. Around 12:30pm, we’ll depart by bus for the approximate 1-hour ride to our lodge, where we’ll stay for three nights on a secluded stretch of the Menai Beach Conservation Area. Depending on which lodge you stay at, amenities may include a restaurant, swimming pool, beach access, and a variety of waterfront activities. Typical rooms are island-themed, with outdoor sitting areas and private en-suite bathrooms.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

47 Lunch: We’ll dine together at the lodge’s boat. Located off the southwestern coast of restaurant around 1:30pm. Seafood is the most Zanzibar, Menai Bay is the island’s largest popular offering here, but meat and vegetarian protected marine area and is home to extensive options are also available. coral reefs, mangrove forests, sea grasses, and tropical fish. Afternoon: Enjoy a couple hours of free time to relax, unpack, or explore the lodge’s amenities. While discovering small islets such as Komunda and Miwi, we may even witness pods of dolphin Around 4:30pm, we’ll walk down to the swimming by. We’ll have the opportunity to beach, where we’ll be joined by a waitress swim and snorkel in the warm cerulean waters. from our lodge who will lead a discussion on employment opportunities for Muslim Around 11:15am, we’ll cruise for about 40 women in Zanzibar. Approximately 95% of minutes towards Pamunda Island where we’ll Zanzibaris practice Islam and a large majority have the opportunity to walk along the beach adhere to strict religious traditions—including before gathering for lunch. expecting women to dress modestly and avoid Lunch: At around 12:30pm, a special barbecue contact with men to whom they are not related. lunch will be set up for us on the island. We will These restrictions make it extremely difficult sit in the shade on the beach while enjoying the for women to find work in Zanzibar, where view overlooking the Indian Ocean. beach resorts, spas, and nightclubs are major employers. During this hour-long conversation, Afternoon: We will return to our lodge via you’ll learn more about the religious norms hour-long motorboat ride, arriving at around that permeate the island and how they impact 3pm, where you’ll have about 3.5 hours of free the educated, ambitious women who call time to relax or explore the surrounding area. Zanzibar home. Dinner: Around 6:30pm, we will have dinner at Dinner: Around 6:30pm, we will return to the the lodge where we can enjoy a traditional meal hotel restaurant, where we’ll enjoy a selection together. of tasty African dishes for dinner. Evening: Tonight you are free to explore at your Evening: The evening is yours to do as you own pace. Browse the local shops or gather at please. You may want to cool off in the pool or the lodge with fellow travelers. take a stroll along the beach. Day 6 Spice plantation visit Day 5 Menai Bay boat cruise • Destination: Unguja • Destination: Unguja • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner • Accommodations: Unguja Lodge or similar • Accommodations: Unguja Lodge or similar Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 6am, featuring local and beginning at 6am, featuring local and international selections. international selections. Morning: At around 8:30am, we’ll embark Morning: At around 9am, we’ll walk about on a 1-hour drive by private motorcoach to a 10 minutes to the Dhow marina to discover local spice plantation where the commodity Menai Bay by traditional Zanzibari motor that gave the Spice Islands their name is still

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

48 cultivated. Cloves were introduced to Zanzibar Morning: At around 9am, we will walk to a in 1818, and the archipelago quickly became the nearby fishing village in the company of a world’s leading producer where it remains a local guide and our Trip Experience Leader. major crop today. As we ride out into the gently The village we visit is 97% Muslim, and most rolling hills of the countryside, we’ll view lush of the population, like their parents and tropical plants, such as cinnamon, vanilla, grandparents, work in the fishing business. and fruit trees. During our 2-hour visit, we’ll Islam is the second most practiced religion in learn more about the art and history of the Tanzania, followed by Christianity, and during cultivation of spices with a local guide—and our time with the local family, we’ll have the perhaps see whether you can identify clove, opportunity to learn about their religious cardamom, nutmeg, peppercorn, and various culture firsthand, as well as witness daily life fruits including jackfruit, pineapple, and in the village. We’ll also learn how they make a coconut. Our tour wraps up around noon, at living and have a chance to ask questions about which point we’ll make the approximately their vital industry. 1-hour drive back to the lodge by private From about 11:30am, you’ll have approximately motorcoach and arrive in time for lunch. 1.5 hours of free time to explore as you Lunch: Around 1:15pm at the lodge, featuring a wish. Ask your Trip Experience Leader for selection of local dishes. suggestions.

Afternoon: The afternoon is free for you to Lunch: On your own. Your Trip Experience explore, spend time with fellow travelers, or Leader can recommend a restaurant for simply relax. At around 5pm, you’re invited you to try. to join our afternoon sunset cocktail party on Afternoon: We will leave our lodge at around the beach. 1:15pm and drive about 30 minutes to the Dinner: If the weather permits, we will have a Zanzibar airport, where we will board our Farewell Dinner on the beach to say good-bye plane around 5pm for the nearly 3-hour flight to Zanzibar tonight at around 7pm. If the beach to Addis Ababa. Upon arrival, we will have a is less than welcoming, we’ll enjoy our final roughly 2-hour layover before boarding our meal at the lodge. plane back to the U.S., arriving the next day.

Evening: The evening is yours to spend as you choose—you are free to join fellow travelers for a last drink, return to your room to rest before your departure, or enjoy one more night on the beach.

Day 7 Visit a local Muslim family • Fly to Addis Ababa • Return to U.S. • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch

Breakfast: Served buffet-style at the hotel beginning at 6am, featuring local and international selections.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

49 OPTIONAL TOUR

Cooking Lesson (Day 3 $35 per person) Expand your cooking knowledge with an in-depth lesson on Zanzibar’s creative cuisine. We’ll visit a home in Stone Town and learn to prepare signature dishes from the region, including biryani (an Indian rice casserole), mseto (a Swahili mung bean porridge), and wali (coconut rice). You’ll learn how to incorporate locally-sourced spices into a meal that you prepare with the assistance of our local host. You’ll be able to taste your culinary creations, too, savoring the complex flavors unique to the island.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

50 POST-TRIP Tanzania: The Ngorongoro Crater & Serengeti Safari

INCLUDED IN YOUR PRICE

» Accommodations: 1 night in Addis Ababa at » 3 small group activities and 5 safari the Radisson Blu Hotel or similar, 3 nights game drives in Karatu at the Country Lodge Karatu or » Services of a local O.A.T. Trip similar, and 3 nights in Serengeti National Experience Leader Park at Osinon Camp or similar » Gratuities for local guides, drivers, and » 20 meals—7 breakfasts, 7 lunches, luggage porters and 6 dinners » All transfers

POST-TRIP EXTENSION ITINERARY

Enjoy a safari adventure in Tanzania as we seek out the majestic wildlife of Ngorongoro Crater and Serengeti National Park during a series of thrilling game-viewing drives. We’ll also learn about local culture during a visit with members of the Hadzabe and Datoga tribes—two of the oldest remaining human ethnic groups—and visit Oldupai Gorge, where the fossils of humankind’s earliest ancestors were found.

Day 1 Fly to Addis Ababa, Ethiopia Day 2 Fly to Tanzania • Overland to Karatu • Destination: Addis Ababa • Destination: Karatu • Accommodations: Radisson Blu Hotel • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner or similar • Accommodations: Country Lodge Karatu Morning: We’ll drive by private motorcoach to or similar Bahir Dar’s airport, where we’ll board a flight Breakfast: At the hotel. to Addis Ababa. Upon arrival, we’ll transfer to our hotel and check in. Morning: We’ll transfer to the airport for our flight into Tanzania, arriving at Kilimanjaro Lunch: On your own. Your Trip Experience international airport in the early afternoon. Leader can recommend a café or restaurant. We’ll then board a private motorcoach and begin our 4-hour transfer to Karatu. Afternoon: The afternoon is free to rest or explore Addis Ababa independently. Lunch: A boxed lunch will be provided to enjoy during our overland transfer to Karatu. Dinner: On your own. Your Trip Experience Leader can recommend a restaurant. Afternoon: We’ll arrive at our Karatu lodge and check in just before dinner. Depending on Evening: Free to spend as you wish. Ask your which lodge we stay at, we will most likely be Trip Experience Leader for recommended situated among acres of picturesque landscaped activities.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

51 grounds on the outskirts of Karatu town, with Dinner: Included at the lodge. bungalow-style rooms featuring verandas and Evening: On your own to relax at the bar, private bath. explore the grounds, or retire to your room. Dinner: Included in the restaurant of our country lodge. Day 4 Hadzabe & Datoga village Controversial Topic: Evening: On your own to use the lodge visits • facilities, which may include a pleasant bar Alcoholism in Karatu and spacious lounge with a fireplace, or retire • Destination: Karatu early to your room to prepare for tomorrow’s • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner activities. • Accommodations: Country Lodge Karatu or similar Day 3 Full day game-viewing drive in Breakfast: At the lodge. Ngorongoro Crater Morning: We’ll board our private motorcoach • Destination: Karatu to embark on a rare opportunity made possible • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner by our small group size. This morning, we’ll • Accommodations: Country Lodge Karatu travel for about two hours to Lake Eyasi, where or similar we’ll visit two lesser-known Tanzanian tribes. Breakfast: At the lodge. First, we’ll meet the Hadzabe—considered Morning: We’ll set out by private motorcoach by some experts to be the oldest continuing toward the Ngorongoro Crater, a massive ethnicity in the world. When we meet tribe caldera teeming with wildlife that has often members around 8:45am, our small group will been called the Garden of Eden. Because of slip into the daily rhythm of the tribe. These a permanent supply of water and a precise hunter-gatherers have changed very little in balance of predator and prey, most of the 10,000 years and use a clicking-based dialect. wildlife remains here year-round. Along While here, we’ll have the unique opportunity with rhino, buffalo, and hippo, our full-day to explore the bush on foot with an expert local game-viewing drive aboard a safari vehicle guide seeking out bird species. should reveal a wealth of large cat sightings, as the crater floor is home to the highest We’ll then drive to another nearby village to concentration of predators in the world—from meet the Datoga, who also boast a lengthy lions and hyenas to jackals and leopards. history—it’s believed that the tribe migrated here from Cape Horn about 3,000 years ago. Lunch: Included at a site inside the Ngorongoro Skilled farmers and craftsman, the Datoga are Crater around noon, served picnic-style and known for the circular scarification patterns on featuring sandwiches. their faces added for beautification purposes. We’ll spend about an hour immersing ourselves Afternoon: We’ll spend a few more hours in their tribal culture—maybe even taking part searching for wildlife inside the crater’s in traditional song and dance. wilderness before returning to our lodge in Karatu, where you’ll have a couple hours to After our visit, we’ll return to our lodge relax or explore independently before dinner. in Karatu.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

52 Lunch: Included at the lodge. We then cross over the gorge and into Serengeti National Park, where the full majesty Afternoon: We’ll have a few hours free to rest of the Serengeti will be revealed: Endless or explore independently, then join a local plains formed by volcanic ash and lava from expert for a conversation about a Controversial Ngorongoro mountain. The nutritionally Topic: the devastating effects of alcoholism rich savanna grasses are ideal fodder for on the residents of the Karatu region. herbivores—from zebras and antelope, to Many residents of this region of Tanzania the wildebeests that arrive in late winter to produce moonshine out of homemade stills, deliver their calves. Of course, where there is and the widespread abuse of this strong, an abundance of prey, there are also predators: cheaply-produced liquor has led to an increased Lions, cheetahs, hyenas, and leopards all mortality rate among the locals who regularly proliferate in the Serengeti. We’ll keep our eye consume it. We’ll spend about an hour with our out for animal sightings as we make our way to speaker, learning how this phenomenon came our picnic spot for lunch. to be, and how locals are trying to address it, before dinner. Lunch: We’ll enjoy an included picnic lunch together in Serengeti National Park. Dinner: Included at the lodge. Afternoon: We’ll resume our journey toward Evening: On your own to relax at the bar, our tented camp after lunch, with our Trip explore the grounds, or retire to your room. Experience Leader helping us to spot local wildlife along the way. We then arrive at Day 5 Transfer to Serengeti National Park the camp, where we’ll have a little time to • Visit Oldupai Gorge freshen up or explore the grounds of the camp • Destination: Serengeti National Park before dinner.

• Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner Dinner: Included at the camp. • Accommodations: Osinon Camp or similar Evening: On your own to relax at the bar, Breakfast: At the lodge. explore the grounds, or retire to your room. Morning: We’ll check out of our lodge this morning and make our way by safari vehicle Day 6 Morning and afternoon Serengeti toward Serengeti National Park. Our route game-viewing drives will take us over Oldupai Gorge, preserved as • Destination: Serengeti National Park part of the Ngorongoro Conservation Area. It • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner was here in 1959 that Louis and Mary Leakey • Accommodations: Osinon Camp or similar discovered the fossil fragments that led them to a new understanding of human evolution. Breakfast: At the camp. They developed the theory that this gorge Morning: We’ll board our safari vehicles and was the home to Homo habilis, a race of early set out on a game-viewing drive along the humans that outlasted other species to become vast expanse of the Serengeti, focusing on the ancestors of all present-day humanity. the central region, where big cats abound. We’ll stop to explore the gorge and learn more During the morning, wildlife sightings are during a 2-hour guided visit with our Trip typically at their peak. We’ll return to our camp Experience Leader. around noon.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

53 Lunch: At our tented camp shortly after noon. Afternoon: Our game-viewing drive continues through various regions of the park. We return Afternoon: Free for independent activities. to our tented camp later in the afternoon for You may opt to enjoy a tour of the kitchen at some free time to relax or participate in a brief our camp and see how the cook and staff create nature hike within the grounds of our campsite. such creative and flavorful regional specialties in the middle of the Serengeti. Then, in the Dinner: Included at our camp. mid-afternoon, we’ll set off on another 3-hour Evening: On your own to reflect on your Africa game-viewing drive. We’ll return to the camp experiences with your travel companions or to with time to freshen up before dinner. begin packing for tomorrow’s flight. Dinner: Included at our camp.

Evening: On your own. You might like to relax Day 8 Fly to Arusha • Return to U.S. by the fire or turn in early if you are taking the • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch early morning optional activity the next day. Breakfast: Included at our camp.

Day 7 Optional Sunrise Safari & Hot Air Morning: We depart our camp for a drive to Balloon Ride • Serengeti game drives Seronera Airstrip, a small airport that services Serengeti National Park. We’ll watch for game • Destination: Serengeti National Park along the way before setting off on a 1-hour • Included Meals: Breakfast, Lunch, Dinner flight to Arusha. Upon arrival, we’ll transfer to a • Accommodations: Osinon Camp or similar hotel and enjoy the services of a day room while Early Morning: Perhaps you’ll join our optional we await our evening flight. Sunrise Safari & Hot Air Balloon Ride. If you do, Lunch: Included at our hotel. you’ll rise extra early and set off on a pre-dawn game-viewing drive. Then enjoy breakfast with Afternoon: After lunch, we can relax in our day sparkling wine under the shade of an acacia room. Later, we’ll transfer to the Arusha airport tree, and take flight on a hot-air balloon ride for our return flights home. high above the Serengeti.

Breakfast: Included at our camp.

Morning: Travelers who opted not to take the Optional Tour will board our safari vehicles after breakfast and set off on a game-viewing drive through different sections of this massive park. We’ll rendezvous with travelers on the Optional Tour later in the morning and continue our game drive together.

Lunch: We’ll pause to share an included picnic lunch in the park.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

54 OPTIONAL TOUR

Sunrise Safari & Hot Air Balloon Ride (Day 7 $570 per person) If you choose to take this optional tour, plan on waking up before dawn as we’ll begin with an early morning game-viewing drive. Then we’ll retreat under the shade of a nearby acacia tree where we’ll enjoy breakfast in the bush with a celebratory glass of sparkling wine. Following breakfast, our excursion continues with a breathtaking hot air balloon ride over the Serengeti. With a certified, professional pilot at the controls, we’ll glide over the majestic savannas at dawn, when the morning light bathes the plains in a golden hue. There’s simply no better vantage point from which to appreciate the sheer vastness of the Serengeti’s more than 5,700 square miles of plains, riverine bush, and acacia woodlands. Once we land, we’ll return to our camp to reunite with any travelers who chose not to take this optional tour.

Please Note: This tour is pre-sold only. Due to limited space, it is strongly advised that you reserve this optional tour at least 45 days prior to departure. It is also dependent on wind conditions.

Itinerary Subject to Change. For Information or reservations, call 1-800-955-1925

55 Ethiopia: Cultural Discoveries OUR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURE COVID-19 VACCINATION POLICY To ensure the safety of all of our travelers, we are requiring that all travelers in an Ancient Land joining us on one of our Small Group Adventures must be fully vaccinated against COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure of their adventure— 2022 Dates & Prices and provide proof of their vaccination on-site. For more details, please visit www.oattravel.com/covid-update.

JAN 18, 25; APR 7, 14, 20, JAN 4, 11; FEB 5, 9, 12, 19, 27; OCT 1, 7, MAY 1, 9, 14, NOV 5, 10, 24, 28; MAR 5, 11, 13, 19, 25, 31; 21, 31; SEP 2, DEPART FROM 17, 25, 30 16, 18, 23, 25, 31 DEC 2, 11, 15, 19 9, 19, 23, 30 JUN 2, 4, 7

Washington, DC $ 6695 $6595 $6495 $6295 $6395

Atlanta, Boston, Chicago, Detroit, Miami, Minneapolis, New York, $ 7095 $6995 $6895 $6695 $6795 Newark, Orlando, Tampa

Dallas, Denver, Houston, Los Angeles, Phoenix, Portland, San Diego, $ 7195 $7095 $6995 $6795 $6895 San Francisco, Seattle

Additional departure cities are available. Upgrade to Business Class may be available for the international portion of your flight. Call for details.

JAN 4, 11, 18, 25; FEB 5, 9, 12, 19, 24, 28; APR 7, 14, 20, JUN 2, 4, 7; SEP MAR 5, 11, 16, 27; OCT 1, 7, 13, MAY 1, 9, 14, 19, 23, 30; DEC NOV 5, 10, 17, 18, 23, 25, 31 19, 25, 31 21, 31; SEP 2, 9 11, 15, 19 25, 30 DEC 2 Without international airfare $ 5395 $ 5295 $ 4995 $ 5095 $ 5495 $ 5195

ETH2022

RISK-FREE BOOKING POLICY: RESERVE WITH CONFIDENCE— NEW! STOPOVERS NOW THROUGH 12/31/21 All O.A.T. Stopovers include 3 nights in a centrally- We will waive any change fees if you transfer to another departure date for any located hotel, daily breakfasts, and roundtrip reason—up until 24 hours prior to departure. See details at www.oattravel.com/ private airport transfers. riskfree-booking. Nairobi: $945 per person Johannesburg: $1195 per person

Other O.A.T. Stopovers are available. If a city you Prices are per person. Airfare prices include government taxes, fees, and airline fuel are interested in is not offered, we can arrange surcharges. All prices and availability are effective as of the date of this publication, and are your airfare for that, too. subject to change without notice. Standard Terms & Conditions apply, please visit our website: Call your Adventure Specialist for full details at www.oattravel.com/tc. Every effort has been made to produce this information accurately. We 1-800-955-1925. reserve the right to correct errors.

For specific departure dates, current availability, and detailed pricing, visit www.oattravel.com/eth2022 pricing

SAVE UP TO 10% WITH FREE SINGLE SUPPLEMENTS SHARE YOUR LOVE OF TRAVEL OUR GOOD BUY PLAN We offer FREE Single Supplements on all New travelers you refer will instantly save The earlier you reserve your departure of our adventures and pre- and post-trip $100, and you’ll earn increasing rewards— and pay in full, the more you’ll save—up extensions. up to a FREE trip! to 10%—plus, you’ll lock in your price. Each departure has limited solo space For details, visit www.oattravel.com/va For details, visit www.oattravel.com/gbd available—call today to reserve.

Publication Date 6/2/21

Information & Reservations 1-800-955-1925 www.oattravel.com/eth2022

56 TRAVEL DOCUMENTS & ENTRY REQUIREMENTS

Your Passport • Must be in good condition

• Must be valid for at least 6 months after your scheduled return to the U.S.

• Must have the required number of blank pages (details below)

• The blank pages must be labeled “Visas” at the top. Pages labeled “Amendments and Endorsements” are not acceptable

Need to Renew Your Passport? Contact the National Passport Information Center (NPIC) at 1-877-487-2778, or visit their website at www.travel.state.gov for information on obtaining a new passport or renewing your existing passport. You may also contact our recommended visa service company, PVS International, at 1-800-556-9990 for help with your passport

Recommended Blank Pages Please confirm that your passport has enough blank pages for this adventure.

• Main trip only: If you are taking the main trip only, you will need 3 blank passport pages.

• Pre-trip extension to Kenya: You will need 2 additional blank pages, for a total of 5.

• Pre-trip extension to Uganda: You will need an additional blank page, for a total of 4.

• Post-trip extension to Zanzibar: You will need an additional blank page, for a total of 4.

• Post-trip extension to Tanzania: You will need an additional blank page, for a total of 4.

• Both the Kenya pre-trip extension and a post-trip extension: You will need 3 additional pages, for a total of 6.

• Both the Uganda pre-trip extension and a post-trip extension: You will need 2 additional pages, for a total of 5.

• Stopover in Nairobi or Johannesburg: You will need to add 2 additional pages to the applicable total listed above.

Please note: You might not use all of these pages on your adventure (when you return, some may still be blank) but local officials will want to see that you have them.

57 Visas Required We’ll be sending you a detailed Visa Packet with instructions, application forms, and fees about 90 days prior to your departure. In the meantime, we’re providing the information below as a guideline on what to expect. This info is for U.S. citizens only. All visas and fees are subject to change.

• Ethiopia (main trip): Visa required. U.S. citizens will require a visa for Ethiopia; detailed instructions will be included in your Visa Packet, as noted above.

• Kenya (optional pre-trip extension): Visa required. It is important that you get this visa in advance.

• Uganda (optional pre-trip extension): Visa required. This visa can only be obtained in advance; you cannot obtain it upon arrival.

• Tanzania (optional post-trip extensions) : Visa required. Both the U.S. Department of State and the Tanzanian embassy highly recommended that you obtain your visa in advance, which will be issued as an e-visa.

• Kenya (optional stopover only): Visa required. It is important that you get this visa in advance.

• South Africa (optional stopover only): No visa required. A visa is not required for U.S. citizens for stays of up to 90 days.

Traveling Without a U.S. Passport? If you are not a U.S. citizen, or if your passport is from any country other than the U.S., it is your responsibility to check with your local consulate, embassy, or a visa services company about visa requirements. We recommend the services of PVS International, a national visa service located in Washington D.C.; they can be reached at 1-800-556-9990 or www.pvsinternational.org.

Traveling With a Minor? Some governments may require certain documentation for minors to enter and depart the country or to obtain a visa (if applicable). For further detail on the required documentation, please contact your local embassy or consulate.

Emergency Photocopies of Key Documents We recommend you carry color photocopies of key documents including the photo page of your passport plus any applicable visas, air itinerary, credit cards (front and back), and an alternative form of ID. Add emergency phone numbers like your credit card company and the number for your travel protection plan. Store copies separate from the originals.

58 If you plan to email this information to yourself, please keep in mind that email is not always secure; consider using password protection or encryption. Also email is not always available worldwide. As an alternative, you could load these documents onto a flash drive instead, which can do double-duty as a place to backup photos during your trip.

Overseas Taxes & Fees This tour may have taxes and fees that cannot be included in your airline ticket price because you are required to pay them in person onsite. All taxes are subject to change without notice and can be paid in cash (either U.S. or local currency). If applicable, you will receive a list of these fees with your Final Documents.

59 RIGORS, VACCINES & GENERAL HEALTH

Is This Adventure Right for You? Please review the information below prior to departing on this adventure. We reserve the right for our Trip Experience Leaders to modify participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their condition would adversely affect the health, safety, or enjoyment of themselves or of other travelers.

PACING • 6 locations in 15 days

• 4 internal flights, including a very early morning flight to Aksum on Day 6

PHYSICAL REQUIREMENTS • Not appropriate for travelers using wheelchairs, walkers, or other mobility aids

• You must be able to walk 3 miles unassisted and participate in 3-6 hours of physical activities each day at very high altitudes; some hikes will be challenging, with frequent uneven steps, so travelers are advised to bring walking sticks

• Day 8 includes walking at an altitude of 8,500 feet; Day 9 includes an elective 45-minute hike up steep terrain at an altitude of about 9,000 feet

• Not appropriate for travelers in need of CPAP machines

• We reserve the right for Trip Experience Leaders to restrict participation, or in some circumstances send travelers home, if their limitations impact the group’s experience

ALTITUDE • All days are at altitudes between 6,000-11,000 feet

• Altitude medication will not be available for purchase in Addis Ababa; travelers are advised to bring any needed altitude medication from home

CLIMATE • The weather varies greatly in Ethiopia and is dependent on elevation. When traveling from one area to another, temperatures can shift from 60°F to 95°F in a matter of hours. Due to its high altitude, temperatures in Addis Ababa and other northern Ethiopian cities are cool throughout the year, even during the hottest months (March-May) when daytime temperatures rarely exceed the mid 70s°F. Temperatures drop quickly once the sun goes down and morning frost is common.

TERRAIN & TRANSPORTATION • Travel over very bumpy, dusty terrain during overland transfers

60 • Travel by 18-passenger coach, donkey, bajaj (similar to tuk-tuks), and boat

ACCOMMODATIONS & FACILITIES • We spend 15 nights in hotels and lodges, all of which feature private baths

Steps to Take Before Your Trip Before you leave on this adventure, we recommend the following:

• Check with the CDC for their recommendations for the countries you’ll be visiting. You can contact them online at http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel or by phone at 1-800-232-4636.

• Have a medical checkup with your doctor at least 6 weeks before your trip.

• Pick up any necessary medications, both prescription and over-the-counter.

• Have a dental and/or eye checkup. (Recommended, but less urgent)

Vaccines Required

COVID-19 Overseas Adventure Travel requires that all travelers are fully vaccinated against COVID-19 and are able provide proof of their vaccination upon arrival at their destination. A full vaccination is defined as having been inoculated at least 14 days prior to departure by an approved vaccine. This requirement is not contingent on the countries the tour visits, but a strict company policy due to the nature of the pandemic.

Yellow Fever All travelers will need to bring EITHER proof of a yellow fever vaccination OR an official vaccination waiver in order to meet entry requirements. This also applies to Kenya, Uganda, Zanzibar, and Tanzania if you are joining any of the optional extensions.

While the CDC offers a wide range of vaccination and medication suggestions, there is one in particular that we’d like to draw your attention to—the yellow fever vaccine. For some countries, the yellow fever vaccination is a legal entry requirement, like a passport. For other countries, it is a health recommendation to protect you from getting sick. On this adventure, this vaccination is a legal entry requirement for Ethiopia (plus Kenya and Zanzibar)—but fortunately, authorities will accept a doctor’s waiver in place of getting the actual shot. Therefore EITHER proof of a yellow fever vaccination OR an official vaccination waiver is a requirement for this trip.

You should discuss the vaccine with your doctor to see if he or she recommends it and if your health allows for it. (He or she can offer a suggestion tailored to your personal medical history.) If you and your doctor decide the vaccination is right for you, then he or she will issue you a Yellow Fever Card, also called an International Certificate of Vaccination. This is your proof of vaccination; you should bring it with you on the trip.

61 If you and your doctor decide the vaccination isn’t right for you, then have your doctor issue an official vaccination waiver. An official waiver is a letter that meets these requirements:

• It must be on business letterhead paper.

• It must be signed by a doctor.

• It must be stamped using the same stamp that the doctor uses on a Yellow Fever Card.

• It must give the medical reason why you cannot get the vaccine, say how high the risk is, and cite an authority. (For example: Mr. Smith cannot receive the yellow fever vaccine due to a high risk of side effects as outlined in the Center for Disease Control’s guidelines for people over the age of 65.)

Whether you receive a Yellow Fever Card or an official vaccination waiver, keep it on your person (in your carry-on) so it is easy to find when you arrive or when you cross the border. You may not show anything at all when you cross the border—it all depends on the local official. But if you are asked, you must be able to produce your Yellow Fever Card OR your waiver.

Medication Suggestions • An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness

• Prescription pain medication in the unlikely event of an injury in a remote location

• Motion sickness medicine, if you are susceptible (the roads are very bumpy).

• Anti-malaria medication for Ethiopia (and Kenya/Zanzibar if you are taking any of the optional extensions). Check with the CDC and your doctor first because these medications can have strong side effects.

Traveling with Medications • Pack medications in your carry-on bag to avoid loss and to have them handy.

• Keep medicines in their original, labeled containers for a quicker security screen at the airport and a better experience if you get stopped by customs while overseas.

• Bring copies of your prescriptions, written using the generic drug name rather than a brand name to be prepared for any unforeseen loss of your medications.

We recommend checking with the State Department for medication restrictions by country: https://travel.state.gov/content/travel/en/international-travel/International-Travel- Country-Information-Pages.html. (Pick the country and then follow the links to “Local Laws & Special Circumstances”; if you don’t see any medications specifically mentioned, then you can presume major U.S. brands should be OK).

Staying Healthy on Your Trip Jet Lag Tips

62 • Start your trip well-rested.

• Begin a gradual transition to your new time zone before you leave or switch to your destination time zone when you get on the plane.

• Attempt to sleep and eat according to the new schedule.

• Avoid heavy eating and drinking caffeine or alcoholic beverages right before–and during– your flight.

• Drink plenty of water and/or fruit juice while flying

• Stretch your legs, neck, and back periodically while seated on the plane.

• After arrival, avoid the temptation to nap.

• Don’t push yourself to see a lot on your first day.

• Try to stay awake your first day until after dinner.

Allergies

If you have any serious allergies or dietary restrictions, we advise you to notify us at least 30 days prior to your departure. Please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814, and we will communicate them to our regional office. Every effort will be made to accommodate you.

Water • Tap water is not safe to drink. We recommend you use only filter, treated, or bottled water for drinking and brushing your teeth throughout this trip.

• Bottled drinks and juices, and hot drinks that have been boiled, are safe to drink. Avoid drinks with ice in them.

• Before you buy a bottle, inspect it to make sure the cap is sealed properly. Carry a handkerchief to dry the tops of bottled drinks before and after opening.

Food • The food served at our lodges is safe, including salads and fruits.

• Exercise caution when eating at small local restaurants or buying food from street vendors. Eat only food that is well done and is still hot.

• Since the tap water is not safe to drink, you should be mindful about eating salads or fruits—they may have been washed in tap water. (Fruit that you peel yourself should be OK.)

TIP: During this adventure you might be offered food that is strange and new to you. If you are offered food that you do not feel comfortable with, no one will feel offended if you politely decline; this is OK even during a home visit.

63 MONEY MATTERS: LOCAL CURRENCY & TIPPING GUIDELINES

Top Three Tips • Bring enough cash to cover your needs for 80% of the trip and only expect to be able to use plastic (credit, debit, or ATM card) 20% of the time. When budgeting, keep in mind that your biggest expenses will be tips, meals, and souvenirs. As a guideline, an average meal in this region costs between $15 and $20 per person including a tip.

• A mix of small bills ($1s-$20s), in good condition, and printed after 2006. You’ll be able to pay in U.S. dollars in most places on this trip.

• Traveler’s checks are not recommended. They can be difficult to exchange and the commission fee for cashing them is quite high. It’s more practical to view them as a last resort in the event of a special situation.

Local Currency For current exchange rates, please refer to an online converter tool like www.xe.com/ currencyconverter, your bank, or the financial section of your newspaper.

Ethiopia The official currency in Ethiopia is the Birr (ETB), which is composed of 100 santims. Banknotes and coins come in the following denominations:

• Banknotes: 1, 5, 10, 50, and 100 birr

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, 25, and 50 santims; 1 birr

Note: Officially, foreign currency, including U.S. dollars, is not legal for use in Ethiopia, with the exception of hotel bills, but this is not enforced, and US currency is widely accepted (and often preferred).

Kenya The official currency of Kenya is the Kenyan shilling (KSh), which is divided into 100 cents. One shilling is written Shs.1/-. Banknote and coin denominations are as follows:

• Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, 500, and 1000 shillings (written Shs.1000/-)

• Coins: 50 cents and 1, 5, 10, 20 and 40 shillings

In Kenya, U.S. dollars are accepted for payment in most situations. Newer bills (2006 or newer) in very good condition are strongly preferred. However, when paying in dollars, the exchange rate is not in your favor. You’ll get a better rate by exchanging dollars for shillings and then paying in shillings.

64 Uganda The basic unit of currency in Uganda is the Ugandan Shilling (UGX).

• Banknotes: 10, 20, 50, 1,000, 2,000, and 5,000 shillings

• Coins: 1, 2, 5, 10, 50, 100, 200, 500, 1,000 shillings

In Uganda, U.S. dollars are accepted for payment in most situations. Bills must be issued after 2006 and be in good condition.

Zanzibar (Tanzania) Since Zanzibar is part of Tanzania, the basic unit of currency is the Tanzanian Shilling (TSh), which is divided into 100 senti.

• Banknotes: 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 and 10,000 shillings

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 senti and 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 shillings

In Tanzania, U.S. dollars are accepted for payment in most situations. Bills in very good condition are strongly preferred (2006 or newer). Our regional office suggests that a mix of denominations ($1, 5, 10, and 20s) is best/most convenient for paying with dollars. For exchanging, you’ll get a better rate on large bills ($50s and $100s).

Tanzania The basic unit of currency in Tanzania is the Tanzanian Shilling (TSh), which is divided into 100 senti.

• Banknotes: 1,000, 2,000, 5,000 and 10,000 shillings

• Coins: 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, and 100 senti and 1, 5, 10, 20, 50, 100, 200, and 500 shillings

In Tanzania, U.S. dollars are accepted for payment in most situations. Bills in very good condition are strongly preferred (2006 or newer). Our regional office suggests that a mix of denominations ($1, 5, 10, and 20s) is best/most convenient for paying with dollars. For exchanging, you’ll get a better rate on large bills ($50s and $100s).

How to Exchange Money On this adventure, you won’t need to exchange money because you can pay in U.S. dollars. But you will want a mix of small bills ($1, 5, 10, and 20s), in good condition, printed after 2006. Large bills ($50s and $100s) will be hard to break, and bills in bad condition (dirty, worn, or torn) or printed before 2006 might be rejected, even by banks.

During the trip, if you choose to get local currency, the easiest way is to use a local ATM (your bank at home will convert and charge you in U.S. dollars). You can also exchange cash at some hotels and money exchange offices. To exchange cash, you’ll usually need your passport and bills in good condition (not worn, torn, or dirty). Never exchange money on the street. All exchange methods involve fees, which may be built into the conversion rate; ask beforehand.

65 TIP: Large bills ($50s and 100s) will receive a better exchange rate, but when paying with U.S. dollars, a mix of some $1, 5, 10, and 20s would be better. It makes tipping and bargaining easier when you have exact change.

ATMs When using the ATM, keep in mind that it may only accept cards from local banks, and may not allow cash advances on credit cards; you might need to try more than one ATM or more than one card.

Many banks charge a fee of $1-$10 each time you use a foreign ATM. Others may charge you a percentage of the amount you withdraw. We recommend that you check with your bank before you depart.

Lastly, don’t forget to memorize the actual digits of your card’s PIN number (many keypads at foreign ATMs do not include letters on their keys—they only display numbers.)

Ethiopia: ATMs can usually be found in major cities, such as Addis Ababa, but are harder to find in rural areas.

Kenya: International ATM networks are typically available in the larger cities like Nairobi, however when you are on safari in the bush, you will not have access to ATMs. Local ATMs may only accept cards from local banks and usually will not allow cash advances on credit cards; therefore it is best to bring a cash reserve large enough to pay for most expenses.

Uganda: ATMs are common in large cities, such as Kampala, but many be more difficult to find in rural areas. Keep in mind that ATMs are not always reliable so we recommend that you keep a cash reserve on hand.

Zanzibar: Stone Town does have a handful of ATMs that accept international cards—your best bet is at arrival points like the airport or ferry terminal. But be forewarned that you may need to try more than one machine. And outside of Stone Town ATMs are hard to find. So it’s a good idea to bring some cash with you to cover basic expenses.

Tanzania: In larger cities, ATMs are typically available for major international networks. However, outside of large cities, ATMs may only accept cards from local banks and generally do not allow cash advances on credit cards. It is best to bring a cash reserve large enough to pay for most expenses.

Credit & Debit Cards Even if you don’t plan on using a credit card during your trip, we still suggest that you bring one or two as a backup, especially if you are planning a large purchase (artwork, jewelry). We also suggest that you bring more than one brand of card (i.e. Visa, MasterCard, American Express) if possible, because not every shop will take every card. For example, although the Discover card is accepted in some countries outside the U.S., it is not widely adopted, so other brands will work at a much larger range of stores, restaurants, etc.

66 Ethiopia: Credit cards are rarely accepted in Ethiopia, even in large cities such as Addis Abada. We strongly recommend that you bring enough cash to exchange or withdraw local funds from an ATM.

Kenya: Credit cards are becoming more common in Kenya, but are not as widely accepted as they are in the U.S. Many camps, lodges, and shops will be cash only. Businesses that do accept cards tend to use a slow approval process that may involve calling your credit card company to get authorization.

Uganda: Credit cards may be accepted at some large hotels, but are not commonly used outside of Kampala.

Zanzibar: Credit cards such as Visa and MasterCard are accepted at large establishments. However, there are security concerns (some travelers report higher-than-average credit card fraud on the island), so you may prefer to stick to cash.

Tanzania: Although credit cards are becoming more common, they are not as widely accepted in Tanzania as they are in the U.S. Many camps, lodges, and shops will be cash only and businesses that do accept credit cards may use a slow approval process that sometimes involve calling your credit card company to get authorization.

Notify Card Providers of Upcoming Travel Many credit card companies and banks have fraud alert departments that will freeze your card if they see suspicious charges—such as charges or withdrawals from another country. To avoid an accidental security block, it is a good idea to notify your credit card company and/or bank you will be using your cards abroad. You can do this by calling their customer service number a week or two before your departure. Some banks or credit card companies will also let you do this online.

You should also double-check what phone number you could call if you have a problem with a card while you are abroad. Don’t assume you can use the 1-800 number printed on the back of your card—most 1 800 numbers don’t work outside of the U.S.!

Tipping Guidelines Of course, whether you tip, and how much, is always at your own discretion. But for those of you who have asked for tipping suggestions, we offer these guidelines.

• O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader: It is customary to express a personal “thank you” to your Trip Experience Leader at the end of your trip. As a guideline, many travelers give $7-$10 USD (or equivalent in local currency) per person for each day their Trip Experience Leader is with them. Please note that these tips can only be in cash. If you are taking any of the optional extensions, your Trip Experience Leader during the extension(s) may not be the same as the one on your main trip.

• Housekeeping staff: $1-2 per room, per night. Tipping for housekeepers at tented camps and safari lodges on the Kenya optional extension is included as they are part of the camp/lodge staff.

67 • Waiters: When dining on your own, you would tip from 5%-10% of the bill in Ethiopia or Kenya—but only if a service charge isn’t already on the bill.

• Taxis: In East Africa tipping isn’t necessary, but if you want to give something you can round up the bill and let the driver keep the change.

• Your Trip Price Includes: Gratuities are included for local guides, drivers, lodge and camp staff, driver-guides, and luggage porters on your main trip, extensions, and all optional tours.

Please note: Tips are quoted in U.S. dollars for budgeting purposes; tips can be converted and paid in local currency (this is usually preferred) or in U.S. dollars. Please do not use personal or traveler’s checks for tips.

68 AIR, OPTIONAL TOURS & STAYING IN TOUCH

Land Only Travelers & Personalized Air Quick Definitions

• Land Only: You will be booking your own international flights. Airport transfers are not included.

• Air-Inclusive: You booked international air with us. Airport transfers are included as long as you didn’t customize your trip’s dates (see next bullet).

• Personalized Air: You booked international air with us, and have customized it in some way. If you have customized your trip’s dates to arrive early, stay longer, or stop on your own in a connecting city, airport transfers will NOT be included. You must also arrange your own accommodations for any additional nights. For your convenience, a preliminary list of your included hotels is available on your My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount under “My Reservations”.

Airport Transfers Can Be Purchased For eligible flights, airport transfers may be purchased separately as an optional add-on, subject to availability. To be eligible, your flight(s) must meet the following requirements:

• You must fly into or fly home from the same airport as O.A.T. travelers who purchased included airfare.

• Your flight(s) must arrive/depart on the same day that the group arrives or departs.

Airport transfers can be purchased up to 45 days prior to your departure; they are not available for purchase onsite. To learn more, or purchase airport transfers, please call our Traveler Support team at 1-800-221-0814.

If you don’t meet the requirements above, you’ll need to make your own transfer arrangements. We suggest the Rome to Rio website as a handy resource: www.rome2rio.com.

When booking your international flights, please also note that the main trip will end on Day 17 for your overnight flight back to the United States.

Optional Tours Optional tours are additional add-on tours that allow you to personalize your adventure by tailoring it to your tastes and needs. And if you decide not to join an optional tour? Then you’ll have free time to relax or explore on your own—it’s about options, not obligations.

What You Need to Know • All optional tours are subject to change and availability.

69 • Optional tours that are reserved with your Trip Experience Leader can be paid for using credit/debit cards only. We accept MasterCard, Visa, and Discover credit cards; we can also take MasterCard or Visa debit cards as long as the card allows you to sign for purchases. (You won’t be able to enter a PIN.)

• To ensure that you are charged in U.S. dollars, your payment will be processed by our U.S. headquarters in Boston. This process can take up to three months, so we ask that you only use a card that will still be valid three months after your trip is over. The charge may appear on your credit card statement as being from Boston, MA or may be labeled as “OPT Boston”.

• Your Trip Experience Leader will give you details on the optional tours while you’re on the trip. But if you’d like to look over descriptions of them earlier, you can do so at any time by referring to your Day-to-Day Itinerary (available online by signing into My Account at www.oattravel.com/myaccount).

Communicating with Home from Abroad

Cell Phones If you want to use your cell phone on the trip, check with your phone provider to see if your phone and service will work outside of the U.S. It may turn out to be cheaper to rent an international phone or buy a SIM card onsite. If you want to use a local SIM, just make certain your phone is “unlocked”, meaning it can accept a local SIM card. If your cell is unlocked, then you will be able to purchase a local SIM for it and then buy minutes with “Pay as You Go” cards, so that you have a local contact number for your friends and family.

Calling Apps Another option is to use a smartphone app like Skype or FaceTime. These services are usually less expensive than making a traditional call, but you’ll need a Wi-Fi connection and the calls may count towards your phone plan’s data allowance. Many smartphones—and some tablets or laptops—come with one of these apps pre-installed or you can download them for free from the appropriate apps store.

Calling Cards & 1-800 Numbers When calling the U.S. from a foreign country, a prepaid calling card can be useful because it circumvents unexpected charges from the hotel. Calling cards purchased locally are typically the best (less expensive, more likely to work with the local phones, etc.). One reminder: Do not call U.S. 1-800 numbers outside the continental United States. This can result in costly long distance fees, since 1-800 numbers do not work outside the country.

Internet Internet access on this adventure will be mostly limited to cities and towns. In many cases, it will not be WiFi, but rather public computers in the hotel lobby or business center. The hotels and lodges that do offer WiFi will usually charge for the service.

70 Receiving Calls from Home To ensure you are available during your trip to friends and relatives at home, you will receive two copies of your hotel list, including phone numbers, with your Final Documents. One copy is for you to bring, and one is to leave behind with friends or relatives in case they need to contact you during the trip.

How to Call Overseas When calling overseas from the U.S., dial 011 for international exchange, then the country code (indicated by a plus sign: +), and then the number. Note that foreign phone numbers may not have the same number of digits as U.S. numbers; even within a country the number of digits can vary depending on the city and if the phone is a land line or cell phone.

Ethiopia: +251 Zanzibar (Tanzania): +255

Kenya: +254 Tanzania: +255

Uganda: +256

71 PACKING: WHAT TO BRING & LUGGAGE LIMITS

Luggage Limits

MAIN TRIP LIMITS

Pieces per person One checked bag and one carry-on per person.

Weight restrictions Varies by international airline. The current industry standard is 50 lbs for checked luggage and 15 lbs for carry-ons.

For domestic flights within Ethiopia, your luggage will be limited to a combined weight of 44 lbs total due to internal flight restrictions, so you can choose to limit your luggage to 44 lbs throughout the entire trip OR you have the option to store excess luggage at the hotel in Addis. If you choose to store excess luggage, please bring a small, additional bag (with a lock) to leave at the hotel in Addis.

Size Restrictions Main trip: Standard airline size: Checked luggage should not exceed 62 linear inches (length+ width + depth) and carry-on should not exceed 45 linear inches

Luggage Type Main trip and Zanzibar post-trip extension: A duffel bag or sturdy suitcase with wheels and lockable zippers.

If you are joining the Kenya pre-trip extension: Must use a duffel bag as your checked luggage throughout your adventure.

TRIP EXTENSION(S) LIMITS

Kenya pre-trip extension: Luggage is limited to a combined weight of 33 lbs TOTAL (see note below). Use of a duffel bag as your checked luggage is required on this extension. Your duffel bag must be no larger than 24”x18”x13” and your carry-on luggage is limited to 21”x12”x9” in dimension.

72 REMARKS/SUGGESTIONS

Important Notes for Kenya pre-trip extension:

• Use of a duffel bag is ar equirement on the Kenya extension. Your duffel bag must be no larger than 24”x18”x13” and your carry-on luggage is limited to 21”x12”x9” in dimension with a combined weight limit of 33 lbs.

• Luggage storage: Your luggage will be limited to a combined weight of 33 lbs total on the Kenya pre-trip extension due to internal flight restrictions, so you can choose to limit your luggage to 33 lbs throughout the entire trip OR you have the option to store excess luggage at the hotel in Nairobi (you’ll spend 1 night in Nairobi at the start of your pre-trip extension, fly to the Mount Kenya area, then return to Nairobi). If you choose to store excess luggage, please bring a small, additional bag (with a lock) to leave at the hotel in Nairobi.

Luggage rules: Luggage rules and limits are set by governmental and airline policy. Enforcement of the rules may include spot checks or may be inconsistent. However one thing is the same across the board: If you are found to have oversized or overweight luggage, you will be subject to additional fees, to be assessed by—and paid to—the airline in question.

Don’t Forget: • These luggage limits may change. If the airline(s) notify us of any changes, we will include an update in your Final Documents booklet.

• It’s a good idea to reconfirm baggage restrictions and fees directly with the airline a week or so prior to departure. For your convenience, we maintain a list of the toll-free numbers for the most common airlines on our website in the FAQ section.

• Baggage fees are not included in your trip price; they are payable directly to the airlines.

• The luggage limits above are based on your regional flights, which may be less than your international flights. Even if your international airline offers a larger weight limit, you will need to pack according to the lower restrictions.

Your Luggage • Checked Luggage: For travelers who are not joining the Kenya pre-trip extension, please bring one duffel bag or suitcase. Look for one with heavy nylon fabric, wrap-around handles, and a heavy duty lockable zipper. Please do not bring a rigid (plastic shell) suitcase. Travelers who are taking the extension in Kenya must use a duffel bag.

• TIP: When traveling with a companion we recommend “cross-packing,” i.e., pack 2 outfits of your clothing in your companion’s luggage and vice-versa, in case one bag is delayed.

• Carry-on Bag: You are allowed one carry-on bag per person. We suggest a tote or small backpack that can be used as both a carry-on bag for your flight and to carry your daily necessities—water bottle, camera, etc—during your daily activities.

73 • Locks: For flights that originate in the U.S., you can either use a TSA-approved lock or leave your luggage unlocked. Outside of the U.S. we strongly recommend locking your luggage as a theft-prevention measure.

• Luggage Handling on Arrival: Airport porters are not allowed in the customs hall area. When you land, you must take your luggage off the baggage carousel and then clear customs. When you exit the airport building, your driver will load your luggage into the coach.

Duffel Bag: Required on the Kenya Extension • Use of a duffel bag is a requirement on this extension.

• Your duffel bag must be no larger than 24”x18”x13” and your carry-on luggage is limited to 21”x12”x9” due to size limitations set by the airlines and to ensure that your bag will fit on our safari vehicles.

Important Note: Plastic bags are no longer allowed in Kenya (optional extension). They will be confiscated if found and could result in a hefty fine or imprisonment. Consider bringing an empty nylon bag folded into your main suitcase instead for laundry or dirty shoes. For more details, see the packing list section of this Handbook.

Clothing Suggestions: Functional Tips • Most of your clothing should be for warm, dry climates—lightweight, loose fitting, and made of 100% cotton. But you’ll still want to bring a warmer layer due to temperatures dropping at night (and you may want it during the day on the air-conditioned bus).

• Footwear: You’ll be on your feet a lot during the trip and walking over some rough, slippery, and sometimes sandy/muddy surfaces. We recommend you wear sturdy walking shoes or similar supportive sports shoes.

• You can buy clothing designed especially for travel. Look for clothes that offer adequate sun protection. If you like to hand-wash your clothes, bring socks and underwear made of material that will dry out overnight.

• When traveling with a companion, we recommend “cross-packing,” i.e., pack two outfits of your clothing in your companion’s luggage and vice-versa, in case one bag is delayed.

• Dress on our trip is functional and casual. There’s no need for formal or dressy clothing. In local communities, and to some extent in the lodges, your dress should be modest and conservative.

Fashion Dos and Don’ts • Do dress modestly: Ethiopia is a traditional country, and locals tend to dress more modestly, although this is changing in big cities like Addis Ababa. In this context, “modestly dressed” usually means covered from shoulders to below the knees—no shorts, no sleeveless shirts, and no low or revealing necklines; and skirts or dresses below the knee.

74 These rules are especially important in Orthodox churches or Muslim mosques—while you will usually be allowed to enter, you will be frowned upon for showing too much skin. A loose t-shirt and trousers/jeans/long skirt are a better bet.

• Do know the rules for churches and mosques: In addition to dressing modestly, you may be asked to remove your shoes in either an Orthodox church or a mosque. Also local women will tend to cover their hair with a scarf in either a church or a mosque; as a visitor you are usually not required or even expected to do the same, but doing so would be a nice way to show respect.

• For the Kenya extension, do wear muted earth tones (beige, khaki, etc.) because they don’t show dirt easily, coordinate well, and don’t distract animals. Don’t wear white or very brightly colored clothing. These colors have traditionally been used to keep animals away, and even color-blind animals can spot dark and light shades like black and white, which is why white is a danger signal for some species.

IMPORTANT: Plastic bags are no longer allowed in Kenya (optional extension) and travelers will be asked to dispose of any such items when crossing the border. These items include but are not limited to duty-free and general plastic shopping bags, bin liners (which may be used to protect luggage), and dry cleaning bags. If you have plastic bags upon arrival to Kenya, you will be asked to dispose of them. Refusal to dispose of plastic bags may result in a fine. To ensure that you do not have any issues crossing the border, we strongly recommend that you do not bring any plastic bags on this adventure. If you are caught with a plastic bag after you have crossed the border, this could result in a hefty fine or imprisonment.

Suggested Packing Lists We have included suggestions from Trip Experience Leaders and former travelers to help you pack. These lists are only jumping-off points—they offer recommendations based on experience, but not requirements. You may also want to consult the “Climate” chapter of this handbook.

And don’t forget a reusable water bottle—you’ll need it to take advantage of any refills we offer as we are working to eliminate single-use plastic bottles on all of our trips.

Year-Round Clothing Checklist ‰Shirts: A mixture of short and long-sleeved shirts to layer ‰Trousers and/or jeans: Comfortable and loose fitting is best. ‰Shorts: Cut long for modesty ‰Shoes and socks: Comfortable walking/ running shoes or low-cut hiking shoes, with arch support. Light hiking boots will suffice; there is no heavy hiking during the trip, but hiking boots should offer better support and traction than shoes.

‰Light rain jacket/windbreaker with hood

75 ‰Wide-brim sun hat or visor for sun protection ‰Underwear: Most hotels and lodges will not include “smalls” (underwear) in their laundry service for cultural reasons. It is usually OK for you wash them yourself in your room.

‰Sleepwear ‰Optional: Swimsuit and cover-up

Seasonal Clothing Recommendations For the rainy season (June-September): ‰Rain gear: Waterproof jacket/windbreaker with hood and waterproof pants ‰Hood/lens cap/waterproof bag for camera

Essential Items ‰Daily essentials: toothbrush, toothpaste, floss, hairbrush or comb, shaving items, deodorant, etc.

‰Spare eyeglasses/contact lenses; sunglasses ‰Sunscreen: SPF 15 or stronger ‰Insect repellent ‰Flashlight or headlamp ‰Lightweight binoculars for the Kenya extension: To avoid disturbing the animals’ natural activities, we stop the vehicle at a respectful distance. By having your own binoculars, you’ll be able to enjoy the experience more. Models such as 8 x 21 or 6 x 16 provide suitable magnification and illumination. 10x models are usable, but are usually heavy, expensive, and require a very steady hand.

‰Pocket-size tissues ‰Moist towelettes (baby wipes) and/or anti-bacterial “water-free” hand cleanser ‰Electrical transformer & plug adapters. ‰Camera gear with extra batteries or battery charger ‰Foldable walking stick, sold in most camping stores

76 Medicines & First Aid Gear ‰Your own prescription medicines ‰Travel first aid kit: Band-Aids, headache and pain relief, laxatives and anti-diarrhea tablets, something for upset stomach. Maybe a cold remedy, moleskin foot pads, or antibiotic cream.

‰An antibiotic medication for gastrointestinal illness ‰Optional: A strong prescription pain medication for rare emergency purposes ‰Optional: Motion sickness medicine if you are susceptible (the roads are very bumpy). ‰Optional: Anti-malarial medication—discuss with your doctor first

Optional Gear ‰Eye drops: The dry air and dusty roads can cause itchy eyes. ‰Surgical masks, to cover your mouth during game drives on dusty terrain ‰Inflatable seat cushion for bumpy roads ‰Hand-wash laundry soap ‰Field guide: A small, lightweight guide so you are not encumbered during game drives. ‰Phrase book ‰Small gift for Home-Hosted visit

Do Not Bring Single-Use Plastic Bags to Kenya Single-use plastic bags are banned in Kenya If you like to bring a bag for shoes or laundry, we recommend a lightweight nylon bag, packing cube, or reusable cloth tote instead. We also suggest using a reusable toiletry bag in your checked luggage. Violations of the ban could result in fines or even imprisonment, so please double-check your luggage before you depart.

Electricity Abroad When traveling overseas, the voltage is usually different and the plugs might not be the same shape.

77 Voltage Electricity in Ethiopia, Kenya, Uganda, Zanzibar and Tanzania is 220-240 volts. In the U.S. it is 110 volts. Most of the things a traveler will want to plug in—battery chargers, MP3 players, tablets or computers—can run off both 110 and 220-240. But you should check the item or the owner’s guide first to confirm this before you plug it in. If you have something that needs 110 volts—like a shaver or a hairdryer—you can bring a transformer to change the current. (But transformers tend to burn out, so it might be better to leave whatever it is at home.)

Plugs The shape of plugs will vary from country to country, and sometimes even within a country depending on when that building was built. To plug something from the U.S. into a local socket you’ll need an adapter that fits between the plug and the socket. Because there are many different types of plugs in this region, it may be easier to purchase an all-in-one, universal adapter/ converter combo. Versatile and lightweight, these can usually be found at your local electronics goods or hardware stores. Sometimes you can buy them at large retailers too, like Target or Walmart. If you forget to bring an adapter, you might also find them for sale at the airport when you arrive at your destination.

Different plug shapes are named by letters of the alphabet. Standard U.S. plugs are Type A and Type B. Here is the list of plugs for the countries on this trip:

Ethiopia: C and F

Kenya: G

Uganda: G

Zanzibar: C or G

78 Tanzania: D or G

Type C Type F Type G Type D

79 CLIMATE & AVERAGE TEMPERATURES

Ethiopia: Ethiopia lies to the north of the equator and experiences three climate zones. The plateau regions in central Ethiopia, including Addis Ababa, experience cool, mild weather with average lows in the 40s and 50s and average highs getting up into the high 70s. The plateau sees heavy rains from June to September (monsoon season) and a relatively dry climate from November through February. The lowlands, which surround the plateau to the northwest and south, experience an arid climate with heavy rains typically only in July and August and a dry heat from October to mid-May. Temperatures in this region usually range from the low 70s to high 90s. Along the border of Eritrea, Ethiopia sees desert climates with intense heat averaging from the mid 80s to low 100s and very little rainfall throughout the year.

Kenya: The climate in Kenya varies with the terrain—the coast is tropical, the interior temperate, and the north is arid. The Masai Mara Reserve, which is in the southwest, is at a moderate- to-high elevation (4,900-7,100 feet above sea level). This makes the climate wetter and more temperate than other parts of the country, with temperatures usually falling in the range of 85-65 degrees. The rainy seasons are April-May and November; the dry season is from July to October.

Uganda: Uganda enjoys a tropical climate with steady temperatures throughout the year due to its location near the equator. Temperatures typically range from the mid-50s to mid-80s, except in the mountains which are much cooler. Rain can occur throughout the year, especially from March-May and September-November. January-February and June-August are considered the “dry season.”

Zanzibar, Tanzania: Although part of Tanzania, Zanzibar’s seasons are a bit different since it is an island. The first wet or rainy season is usually April to June, while the second rainy season is in November. (But even during the rainy seasons, there can be long bursts of sun, and even during the sunny times of the year, there can be occasional rain.) The hottest time of year is from January through March.

Tanzania: The varied terrain of Tanzania is what causes the biggest differences in climate—from the almost tropical coastal area, to the comfortable central plateau, to the chilly hills and mountains near the Kenyan border. Since our main itinerary takes us to northern and eastern Tanzania, plan on days that are warm or hot (up to the 70s and the 80s) and nights that are chilly or cold (as low as the 50s or 40s).

Like many countries near the equator, the seasons in Tanzania are best described by rainfall and humidity instead of temperature. The first wet or rainy season in the north runs from March to May. The second wet or rainy season is generally November and December. Although the rest of the year could be called dry season, January and February are especially dry (if you measure by number of days it rains). Humidity is strongest in the mornings during the wet seasons, but because our adventure is in the less humid north, the yearly average for the areas we visit is only about 60% relative humidity—roughly the same as Philadelphia.

80 NOTE: If you are taking one of our optional stopovers before or after your OAT adventure, please be aware the climate and temperatures might be different from what you experienced during your tour. To prepare for weather differences and pack appropriate clothing, we recommend the following world weather sites:

• www.intellicast.com

• www.weather.com

• www.wunderground.com

Climate Averages & Online Forecast The following charts reflect the average climate as opposed to exact weather conditions. This means they serve only as general indicators of what can reasonably be expected. An extreme heat wave or cold snap could fall outside these ranges. As your departure approaches, we encourage you to go online to www.oattravel.com/myaccount for your 10-day forecast.

Average Daily High/Low Temperatures (°F), Humidity & Monthly Rainfall

MONTH ADDIS ABABA, ETHIOPIA LALIBELA, ETHIOPIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. (High-Low) % Relative Avg. # of Days with Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (avg) Rain JAN 69 to 53 81 to 37 5.0 70 to 52 -- 7 FEB 70 to 55 80 to 41 6.6 68 to 57 -- 16 MAR 72 to 56 79 to 42 9.8 68 to 57 -- 31 APR 71 to 57 82 to 47 12.4 70 to 57 -- 29 MAY 72 to 58 81 to 45 11.9 73 to 58 -- 17 JUN 69 to 56 85 to 54 22.7 76 to 61 -- 16 JUL 65 to 55 92 to 68 18.7 74 to 59 -- 30 AUG 65 to 55 92 to 68 18.7 70 to 56 -- 30 SEP 66 to 55 91 to 65 22.4 68 to 55 -- 30 OCT 69 to 54 81 to 47 10.7 66 to 53 -- 21 NOV 69 to 51 79 to 38 3.8 66 to 52 -- 14 DEC 69 to 51 81 to 38 6.3 67 to 52 -- 15

81 MONTH SIMIEN MOUNTAINS (DEBARK), BAHIR DAR, ETHIOPIA

Temp. (Avg) % Relative Avg. # of Days with Temp. (High-Low) % Relative Avg. # of Days with Humidity (avg) Rain Humidity (avg) Rain JAN 60 -- 3 82 to 59 -- 1 FEB 62 -- 3 84 to 63 -- 3 MAR 65 -- 4 85 to 67 -- 4 APR 66 -- 6 87 to 69 -- 5 MAY 66 -- 9 83 to 69 -- 23 JUN 64 -- 11 77 to 62 -- 30 JUL 60 -- 12 72 to 59 -- 31 AUG 60 -- 14 70 to 57 -- 31 SEP 61 -- 10 72 to 57 -- 30 OCT 61 -- 6 74 to 57 -- 31 NOV 60 -- 3 75 to 59 -- 28 DEC 59 -- 2 76 to 59 -- 14

MONTH NAIROBI, KENYA KAMPALA, UGANDA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (am-pm) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 77 to 58 93 to 41 1.8 75 to 66 -- 2.3 FEB 80 to 58 89 to 35 1.7 79 to 66 -- 2.4 MAR 80 to 60 92 to 38 2.9 77 to 66 -- 4.8 APR 76 to 61 96 to 52 6.3 75 to 66 -- 7.1 MAY 74 to 59 96 to 56 4.7 75 to 66 -- 5.2 JUN 73 to 56 94 to 53 1.2 73 to 66 -- 2.6 JUL 71 to 54 93 to 52 0.5 73 to 64 -- 2.1 AUG 72 to 54 92 to 49 0.5 75 to 64 -- 3.5 SEP 76 to 55 92 to 41 1.0 75 to 64 -- 4.0 OCT 78 to 58 93 to 40 1.7 75 to 64 -- 4.7 NOV 75 to 60 96 to 51 4.7 75 to 64 -- 5.5 DEC 75 to 59 96 to 49 3.0 75 to 64 -- 3.7

82 MONTH ZANZIBAR, TANZANIA KARATU, TANZANIA

Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Temp. High-Low % Relative Monthly Rainfall Humidity (avg) (inches) Humidity (am-pm) (inches) JAN 90 to 76 74 2.3 62 to 52 -- 2.1 FEB 91 to 76 74 2.6 59 to 52 -- 1.9 MAR 91 to 77 79 5.8 61 to 53 -- 4.0 APR 86 to 77 84 12.6 64 to 56 -- 6.4 MAY 84 to 75 84 11.4 61 to 55 -- 3.1 JUN 83 to 74 79 2.1 55 to 50 -- 0.5 JUL 82 to 72 78 1.1 58 to 51 -- 0.2 AUG 83 to 72 77 1.2 60 to 50 -- 0.1 SEP 84 to 72 76 1.6 65 to 50 -- 0.1 OCT 86 to 73 76 2.6 68 to 52 -- 0.6 NOV 89 to 75 78 6.7 67 to 54 -- 3.5 DEC 89 to 76 78 5.5 64 to 54 -- 3.3

83 ABOUT YOUR DESTINATIONS: CULTURE, ETIQUETTE & MORE

O.A.T. Trip Experience Leaders: A World of Difference During your adventure you’ll be accompanied by one of our local, expert Trip Experience Leaders. All are fluent in English and possess the skills, certification, and experience necessary to ensure an enriching adventure. As locals of the regions you’ll explore with them, our Trip Experience Leaders provide the kind of firsthand knowledge and insight that make local history, culture, and wildlife come alive. Coupled with their unbridled enthusiasm, caring personalities, and ability to bring diverse groups of travelers together, our Trip Experience Leaders ensure that your experience with O.A.T. is one you’ll remember for a lifetime.

Ethiopian Culture Today Ethiopia’s flag features an emblem of a golden star in the middle, symbolizing the unity of the people. But for generations, the flag prominently displayed the Lion of Judah—a crowned lion that is often associated with Jewish heritage—a reminder of the long oral tradition that claims Ethiopia was once the biblical land of Sheba, who’s beautiful queen seduced King Solomon, bore him a son, and brought the Ark of the Covenant back to her country. And while this claim may never be proven by historical record, it is a fact that Ethiopia has had a Jewish community for well over 1,500 years. (Although in recent decades their numbers have dwindled to less than 5% of the population due to immigration to Israel, which has caused some controversy in both countries.)

Ethiopia was also the first African nation to convert to Christianity in 333 BCE—before Northern Europe—a fact that many Ethiopians are keen to point out as it is the only African nation not introduced to Christianity by European colonists. Today nearly two-thirds of the population is part of the Ethiopian Orthodox Church (Tewahedo); the remaining third is largely Muslim. Given this long history, it is no surprise that region plays a key part in Ethiopian culture, but the different faiths largely get along despite some tensions and social segregation.

The other mainstay of Ethiopian culture is the extended family unit. Tradition dictates that when a daughter marries, she leaves the family home. But when a son marries, he and his bride live with his parents, so three-generation households are very common, especially in the countryside. These households will consist of the parents; their grown sons, sons’ spouses, and any unmarried daughters; and the children of all the sons (most couples have four or more children).

In a city setting there may not be room for everyone to live in one apartment, but they will often live near each other, visit frequently, and be very close-knit. What they will not share is a surname—Ethiopians use their father’s first name for this purpose, and women do not change their name when married.

Marriage tends to be very traditional with clearly defined gender roles. Men are expected to provide and do any tasks requiring strength (like farming) while women are judged by their housework, cooking, and childcare. In urban areas women will also work outside of the home, but often in support roles or only if they have the means to hire household help. Men are considered

84 the head of the household, yet polygamy is far less common here than in other East African nations (less than 5% of the population). Same-sex marriage is illegal and there is a high level of discrimination against LGBT persons.

On a bigger scale than the family are the shared cultural standards that date back generations. Because Ethiopia was not colonized by Europe (it was briefly occupied by Italy during World War II, but never a colony) there’s a shared sense of how things should be done, with a correct way serving coffee, greeting people (the elders first), or even cutting up a chicken. This stability in their cultural background acts as a uniting factor within the country and is a way that Ethiopians distinguish themselves from the rest of Africa.

Religion in Daily Life In Ethiopia, the two biggest religions are Ethiopian Orthodox Christian and Muslim. Although the two religions differ, they both play an important role in daily life. For example, it is common for museums, governmental offices, and some businesses to close for significant religious holidays such as Easter or the end of Ramadan. Also the dress code is similar in both churches and mosques, where modest dress is considered polite; you may be asked to remove your shoes; and local women tend to cover their hair with a scarf. (Female travelers are not required to cover their hair, but doing so would be a nice way to show respect.)

TIP: Don’t forget that the dates of religious festivals in Ethiopia may not be the same as in the U.S. In addition, Islamic religious festivals follow a lunar calendar, and therefore can vary from year to year. For more details see the “National Holidays” listings in this Handbook.

Keep an Open Mind • This is Africa—weather, the political situation, migration of game, fuel availability, road conditions, and flight schedule changes may all impact your trip.

• In some cases, they may change the sequence of places visited, or we may not follow the trip itinerary exactly as published.

• Poverty is prevalent, so be prepared to witness a lower standard of living during our visits to local villages and schools.

Accommodations • Our hotels and lodges are comfortable, but not luxurious.

• There can be occasional problems with electricity, hot water, and air conditioning (where it exists).

• The roads can be dusty and very bumpy, especially during game drives on the optional extension to Kenya.

• Near the towns, some roads may be littered with trash.

85 Safety & Security As you travel, exercise the same caution and awareness that you would in a large American city. Don’t be overly nervous or suspicious, but keep your eyes open. Carry a one-day supply of cash in your pocket. Carry most of your money, and your passport, in a travel pouch or money belt under your shirt. Replenish your pocket supply when you are in a safe and quiet place, or in our vehicle. Do not leave valuable items unattended in your room. Almost every lodge offers use of a hotel safe at the front desk.

Pickpockets Pickpockets may create a sudden distraction. In any sort of puzzling street situation, try to keep one hand on your money belt. If an encounter with a local turns out to be long and complicated and involves money or your valuables, be very careful. Con artists sometimes target travelers.

Be careful when taking photos from the vehicle in towns or city centers. It is not unheard of for thieves to reach inside the open window while you are distracted and grab cameras or purses. If you’re taking photos out of an open window in a crowded area, have someone else in the group watch over your valuables.

Language Barrier You can have some great “conversations” with local people who do not speak English, even if you don’t speak a word of the local language. Indeed, this non-verbal communication can be a highly rewarding part of travel. To break the ice, bring along some family photographs, or a few postcards of your hometown. Your Trip Experience Leader can help get the ball rolling.

Your attire is a key part of your non-verbal presentation. Your clothing should show a respect for local tradition. In small towns or near villages, you should dress in a relatively modest style—avoid revealing or tight-fitting outfits. The application of this guideline varies. You will see people in cities and large towns dressed in a modern style. And, of course, many foreign tourists are not sensitive to this at all. But you should dress modestly if you want to earn the respect of the local people.

Taking Photographs The etiquette of photographing most people in Ethiopia is about the same as it would be on in your hometown. In general, you need permission to take a close-up, as you would at home, but not for a crowd scene. Be especially polite if you want to photograph an older person. If you want to shoot a great portrait, show interest in your subject and try to have a bit of interaction first. Then use sign language to inquire if a picture is OK. Your Trip Experience Leader can help.

Responsible Safari Travel (Kenya Extension) We do our best to have a minimum negative impact on local cultures and the natural environment in every country we operate trips. Here’s how you can assist in this effort.

86 Respecting Wildlife • Observe the animals silently and with a minimum of disturbance to their natural activities. Loud talking on a game drive can frighten the animals away.

• Never attempt to attract an animal’s attention. Don’t imitate animal sounds, clap your hands, pound on the vehicle, or throw objects. Failure to obey this rule could result in your removal from a National Park by one of the Park Rangers on patrol.

• Please respect your driver-guides’ judgment about your proximity to wildlife. Don’t insist that he or she take the vehicle closer so you can get a better photograph. A vehicle driven too close can hinder a hunt or cause animals to abandon a hard-earned meal.

• Litter tossed on the ground can choke or poison animals and birds.

• Never attempt to feed or approach any wild animal on foot. This is especially important near lodges or in campsites where animals may have become accustomed to human visitors. Failure to adhere to this could cause you to be bitten and need immediate rabies shots, which are unpleasant and costly.

• Smoking is not allowed on game drives. The dry African bush ignites very easily, and a flash fire can harm hundreds of animals.

Conserving the Natural Environment • Minimize the disposable items you bring on the trip and dispose of your trash properly.

• Ask whether plastic drinking water bottles can be recycled. Most days, it’s better to keep your empty bottles with you until you reach your hotel.

• Stay on established trails to avoid damaging plants.

• Don’t pick any vegetation, or remove any item of biological interest.

Ethiopian Cuisine You may have tried Ethiopian food at home, but what you’ll get here is totally different as there are ingredients that are only found locally. However one component stays the same, and that’s the injera, a type of pancake made from a semi-fermented grain called tef that serves as a platter, utensil, and bread all in one. Food is piled on top of the injera, and pieces of it are broken off to be used as a scoop for the food. (Or in some restaurants, it will be served on the side like bread.) But be warned: Travelers tend to get “injera fatigue” at some point as the taste is an acquired one—tangy and slightly sour. If that happens to you, stick to the yummy toppings instead. Some typical dishes include:

• Wat: Ethiopia’s version of curry, made with lamb, beef, goat, or chicken (in a nod to religious diets, you won’t easily find pork in Ethiopia). Kai wat is a spicy reddish version while alicha wat is a milder yellow version.

87 • Kitfo: A filling meat dish where raw lean meat is minced and warmed in a pan with butter, hot spices, and thyme (think of a warm steak tartar and you’re not far off). Can be served as leb leb (warmed but not cooked) or betam leb leb (lightly cooked).

• Vegetable dishes: Ethiopian cuisine is very meat-heavy, but on Wednesdays, Fridays, and the 55 days before Ethiopian Easter, vegetarian dishes are the norm as these are considered fasting days, when most locals will avoid meat. Look for dishes like messer (lentil curry), gormen (collard greens), and shiro (a type of humus). If you are a vegetarian, some of these dishes must be ordered in advance on non-feast days, so we recommend that you let your Trip Experience Leader know as soon as possible.

• Drinks: Coffee is a big deal here. And no wonder—this might be where it was first drunk. Italian-style lattes and cappuccinos are especially popular, as is local variations that combine coffee with tea or the herb rue (t’na adam). For alcoholic beverages try tej, which is brewed from honey, local beers, Gouder red wine, or Awash Crystal white wine.

Kenyan Cuisine Kenya’s food is as varied as its many tribes. However, there are a few regional differences based on geography. For example, the coastline tends to have the spiciest dishes and use more coconut. This, combined with an Arabic influence, means that coastal cuisine is highly regarded throughout the country. Typical dishes include pilau (rice, meat, and veggies cooked in beef broth with ginger and aromatic spices), biryani (a mixed rice dish), chapatti (unleavened flat bread), and madafu (coconut water). Kuku wa kupaka is another flavorful coastal dish that is especially popular. It consists of chicken pieces cooked in a hearty, spicy sauce made with coconut milk, tomato paste, and flavorings such as cumin, turmeric, and lime juice.

As you move into the interior, the food gets less spicy and more reliant on potatoes, maize, and grains like millet and sorghum. The central region is particular is known for its meat and potatoes meals such as the ubiquitous—and greatly loved—nyama choma (BBQ beef short ribs or goat with a spice rub of turmeric, curry power, black pepper, and salt) served on ugali (cornmeal). Also popular is nyama stew, which can be prepared with goat, chicken, or beef cooked in oil, onions, curry powder, tomatoes, coriander, and garlic with fresh vegetables.

And then as you continue to the west, the staple ingredients change again to include more chicken and fresh fish from Lake Victoria. One of the highlights of the western region is ingoho, a poultry dish by the Luhya people that is served only to important visitors, such as prospective in-laws. A whole chicken is roasted to a nice brown color and then braised with onions, spices, and tomatoes. Also well-known in this region is cornmeal cake and fried fish.

Ugandan Cuisine Uganda’s various tribal groups certainly have their own culinary traditions, but many of their favorite dishes rely on similar ingredients such as matoke (plantains), corn meal, cassava, beans, and peanuts. Then there is the influence of Uganda’s Indian, Arabic, and Asian immigrant cultures, which have added their own flavor profiles to popular favorites.

88 One of the most beloved national dishes is luwombo (or oluwombo). Legend says that it was created in the 19th century by the personal chef of King Kabaka Mwanga of the Buganda Kingdom. It’s a stew of chicken, beef, mushrooms, or fish steamed in banana leaves. Luwombo may be served with another Ugandan favorite, posho or ugali. Similar to polenta, this filling cornmeal porridge is eaten any time of day, as a main course or a side dish. It often accompanies chaloko, a traditional entrée made with pinto beans, green peppers, tomatoes, and red or purple onions.

Another popular side is chapati, an Indian-influenced, wheat flatbread that is ideal for wrapping around vegetables or sopping up the ubiquitous ground nut (peanut) condiment called g-nut sauce. Made from sweet and creamy red peanuts, it is perfect with roasted fish, sweet potatoes, and matoke (plantain).

Some Ugandan treats have clever names that may (or may not) hint at what’s so tasty. If you’re hungry on the go, visit a street vendor for some TV chicken—so named because the rotisserie oven that it’s roasted in resembles a television. Rolex is not an expensive watch. It’s very cheap and it is what it sounds like: rolled eggs. They are scrambled into an omelette with onions, tomatoes, and cabbage, then rolled up with a chapati. Then there’s the Ugandan egg roll, which is nothing like its Chinese namesake, but is quite literally a hard-boiled egg rolled up in a ball of mashed potatoes, and fried. Feeling adventurous? Hit up a pub and order some nsenene, or fried grasshoppers. They are perfect with cold beer.

Most Ugandans get their sweet fix from fruit, but you can also try mandazi, which are like donuts (minus the hole) sweetened with coconut milk; or sim-sim cookies, a brittle made with sesame seeds and honey.

Zanzibari Cuisine Tanzanian cuisine is unique and widely varied. Along the coast, you’ll find a decided Indian influence with spices and a wide use of coconut milk. Dishes to try are sambusa (samosa; large fried dumplings filled with spiced potatoes or meat), pilau (wild rice), kebabs, or samaki (fish cooked in coconut milk). If you have a sweet tooth be on the lookout for kashata, a sort of peanut brittle in coconut milk with cardamom.

As you move away from the coast, you will find a wider variety of fruits and vegetables, including ndizi (plantains), bamia (okra), mchicha (spinach), njegere (peas), maharage (beans), and kisamvu (cassava leaves). These are often be served as part of a platter with a grilled meat: kuku choma (chicken), nyama choma (beef), or kiti moto (pork). The more adventurous may want to try kisusio soup, made from boiled bones, scraps of meat, and blood.

Aside from meals, Tanzania also has some tasty and varied snacks, great with a hot beverage like chai tea or kahawa (coffee). Look for bread-like rolls called mandazi, vitumbua rice cakes, or flatbreads known as chapati. More unusual offerings include firigisi (grilled gizzards), tende (dates), daga (a tiny fried fish), or even grilled grasshoppers (senene)! There also various beers produced in Tanzania—Kilimanjaro, Safari, and Serengeti are the best-known brands.

89 Tanzanian Cuisine Tanzanian cuisine is unique and widely varied. Along the coast, you’ll find a decided Indian influence with spices and a wide use of coconut milk. Dishes to try are sambusa (samosa; large fried dumplings filled with spiced potatoes or meat), pilau (wild rice), kebabs, or samaki (fish cooked in coconut milk). If you have a sweet tooth be on the lookout for kashata, a sort of peanut brittle in coconut milk with cardamom.

As you move away from the coast, you will find a wider variety of fruits and vegetables, including ndizi (plantains), bamia (okra), mchicha (spinach), njegere (peas), maharage (beans), and kisamvu (cassava leaves). These are often be served as part of a platter with a grilled meat: kuku choma (chicken), nyama choma (beef), or kiti moto (pork). The more adventurous may want to try kisusio soup, made from boiled bones, scraps of meat, and blood.

Aside from meals, Tanzania also has some tasty and varied snacks, great with a hot beverage like chai tea or kahawa (coffee). Look for bread-like rolls called mandazi, vitumbua rice cakes, or flatbreads known as chapati. More unusual offerings include firigisi (grilled gizzards), tende (dates), daga (a tiny fried fish), or even grilled grasshoppers (senene)! There also various beers produced in Tanzania—Kilimanjaro, Safari, and Serengeti are the best-known brands.

Shopping: What to Buy, Customs, Shipping & More There may be scheduled visits to local shops during your adventure. There is no requirement to make a purchase during these stops, and any purchase made is a direct transaction with the shop in question, subject to the vendor’s terms of purchase. O.A.T. is not responsible for purchases you make on your trip or for the shipment of your purchases.

Returns If you discover an issue with an item, you should contact the vendor directly and expect that any resolution will take longer than it would in the U.S. We recommend that you keep a copy of all your receipts, invoices, or contracts, along with the shop’s contact information. Keep in mind, local practice may vary from U.S. standards, so don’t assume that you have a certain number of days after the purchase to speak up or that you are guaranteed a refund.

Crafts & Souvenirs

Ethiopia Popular souvenirs include textiles (such as scarves or a traditional Ethiopian dress called a caftan), hand-woven baskets, spices, coffee, jewelry, clay pottery, and wood sculptures.

Note: The U.S. State Department advises that Ethiopia has strict consequences for the transport of ivory, including fines, detainment, or imprisonment. Also, keep in mind that any replicas or copies of antiques or religious artifacts must be accompanied by a receipt and may still be confiscated.

90 Kenya Traditional souvenirs include woodcarvings, gems and gemstone jewelry, batik artwork, traditional African woven cloths, hand-woven carpets and mats, leather goods, Maasai beadwork, carved soapstone, fine basketry, and excellent coffee and tea.

Uganda In Uganda, look for gold, silver, and beaded jewelry, wood carvings, handmade bags, woven rugs, curtains, hats, traditional baskets, and spices.

Zanzibar Given the archipelago’s reputation as spice islands, it is no surprise that spices are a good bargain here, especially warm spices like cloves, cinnamon, pepper, and tumeric. However saffron does not grow on the island, so be wary of anyone trying trying to sell it to you. Woodworking items like small boxes, crates, or chests are popular and evoke the carved doors of Stone Town. Other handicrafts include items made out of ukili (palm tree leaves), woven kikoi fabrics, or brightly- colored folk art paintings called tingatinga.

Bargaining Some shops have fixed prices. In the open-air markets prices are usually flexible and negotiating is normal. The only rule is that if you make an offer, you should be prepared to buy at that price. Bring a mix of small bills so that you can pay in exact change. For bargaining in East Africa, our Trip Experience Leaders suggest that you ask how much the item is, and start your bidding at a quarter of that price, working your way up to half the asking price. This is a good rule of thumb for getting the “right” price.

Tanzania The authentic woodcarvings called mokonde are made only in Tanzania, and are prized by collectors worldwide. Usually made of ebony, traditional mokonde art depicts spirit gods, ancestors, and half-human, half-animal figures. Today mokonde has been adapted to include figures of wildlife. You can find smaller figures for less than $20. Depending on size, style, and quality, larger pieces cost from $50 to $500.

Bargaining Some shops have fixed prices. In the open-air markets prices are usually flexible and negotiating is normal. The only rule is that if you make an offer, you should be prepared to buy at that price. Bring a mix of small bills so that you can pay in exact change. For bargaining in East Africa, our Trip Experience Leaders suggest that you ask how much the item is, and start your bidding at a quarter of that price, working your way up to half the asking price. This is a good rule of thumb for getting the “right” price.

91 U.S. Customs Regulations & Shipping Charges For all things related to U.S. Customs, the ultimate authority is the U.S. Bureau of Customs & Border Protection. Their website, www.cbp.gov has the answers to the most frequently asked questions. Or you can call them at 1-877-227-5511.

The top three points to know are:

• At time of writing, your personal duty-free allowance is $800 for items brought with you. Items totaling more than $800 are subject to duty fees.

• Items shipped home are always subject to duty when received in the U.S. Even when the shop has offered to include shipping and duties in the price, this typically means shipping to the nearest customs facility and payment of the export duties—not door-to-door shipping or payment of the import duties. All additional duties or shipping charges would be your responsibility. Unless an item is small enough to send by parcel service (like FedEx), chances are you will need to arrange shipping or pick-up once the item is in the U.S. and will need to pay customs duties.

• It is illegal to import products made from endangered animal species. U.S. Customs & Border Protection will seize these items, as well as most furs, coral, tortoise shell, reptile skins, feathers, plants, and items made from animal skins.

Ethiopia Customs Regulations Ethiopia has strict guidelines regarding what is allowed to enter and leave the country. For more information, please visit the U.S. State Department website at https://travel.state.gov. A few points to know:

• All cell phones entering Ethiopia must be registered with the Ethiopian Revenue and Customs Authority. This can be done at the Bole International Airport or any Ethio Telecom shop.

• Personal laptops and video equipment are allowed, but any professional photography/video equipment or laptops intended for anything other than personal use much be declared upon arrival and departure.

• Export permits are required for antiques, religious artifacts, Ethiopian crosses, and wildlife parts. If you decide to purchase any of these items while in Ethiopia, you must request a permit through the Ethiopian Wildlife Conservation Authority.

When buying gemstones—such as Tanzanite set in jewelry—make sure to ask if it comes with a certificate before purchasing, as often transactions that have been completed cannot be reversed due to the TRA (Tanzania Revenue Authority) receipting system.

92 DEMOGRAPHICS & HISTORY

Ethiopia

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 426,372 square miles

• Capital: Addis Ababa

• Languages: Amharic is the official national language; Oromo, Somali, Tigrigna, and Afar are also official regional languages.

• Ethnicity: Oromo 34.4%, Amhara 27%, Somali 6.2%, Tigray 6.1%, Sidama 4%, Gurage 2.5%, Welaita 2.3%, Hadiya 1.7%, Afar 1.7%, Gamo 1.5%, Gedeo 1.3%, Silte 1.3%, Kefficho 1.2%, other 8.8%

• Location: Northern Africa, bordering Sudan, Eritrea, and Djibouti to the north, Somalia to the east, Kenya to the south, and South Sudan to the west.

• Geography: Ethiopia features deserts along the eastern coast and a mountainous terrain in the central regions.

• Population: 108,386,391

• Religions: Ethiopian Orthodox 43.5%, Muslim 33.9%, Protestant 18.5%, traditional 2.7%, Catholic 0.7%, other 0.6%

• Time Zone: Ethiopia is seven hours ahead of Eastern Standard Time. When it is noon in D.C., it is 7:00 pm in Ethiopia.

National Holidays: Ethiopia

Ethiopia celebrates a number of national 01/19 Epiphany / Timkat holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as 03/02 Adwa Victory Day Easter and Eid ul Fitr. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit 05/01 Labor Day www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 05/05 Freedom Day 01/07 Ethiopian Christmas Day 05/28 Derg Downfall Day

Ethiopia: A Brief History Ethiopia’s known history dates back well over 3,000 years, although most scholars trace the modern country to the Aksumite Kingdom which rose to power in the first century CE. It was a major power on the Red Sea for centuries, subjugating both Yemen and Sudan, and converting to

93 Christianity in 333 CE. The Aksumite empire fell into decline with the rise of Islam, forcing the Ethiopians to move south into the highlands for refuge. The Aksumites gave way to the Zagwe Dynasty who established a new capital at Lalibela.

Unlike the Aksumites, the Zagwe were very isolated from the other Christian Nations, although they did maintain a degree of contact through Cairo and Jerusalem. For example, when Saladin retook Jerusalem in 1187, he expressly invited the Ethiopian monks to return and even exempted Ethiopian pilgrims from the pilgrim tax, proving that the country was in contact with the Crusader States in the Middle Ages. It was during this period that the Ethiopian king Gebre Mesqel Lalibela ordered the construction of the legendary rock-hewn churches of Lalibela. The Zagwe Dynasty gave way to the Solomonic Dynasty in the 1400s, bringing military reforms and imperial expansion that eventually dominated the Horn of Africa.

Catholic Portuguese missionaries arrived by the 1500s, touching off a political showdown between them and the Muslim Somalis who conquered Abyssinia (Ethiopia) in 1529. But in the end, neither side won as the locals reclaimed their land from the Somalis and all Catholics were expelled by 1632, when a new capital was established at Gondar. A period of peace and prosperity ensued until the country was split apart by warlords in the 18th century and then reunified in 1855 under Emperor Tewodros II. It is this emperor’s descendants who would rule the country until 1975. During this time Ethiopia expanded its territory to the present-day borders, defeated an Italian invasion (in 1896), and saw its first reigning empress, Zewditu (1916-1930). It was her successor, Emperor Haile Selassie, who was to prove a key figure in modern Ethiopia.

Part of his impact was due to his role in World War II, when Italian forces launched a second invasion and occupied Ethiopia from 1935-1941. A joint force of British and Ethiopian rebels managed to drive the Italians out of the country by 1943, and Haile Selassie was returned to the throne. He then embarked on a series of widespread reforms, including the introduction of Ethiopia’s first written constitution and the abolition of slavery. But his reign was not without controversy, especially in Eritrea, which he declared a province of Ethiopia in 1962, sparking a 30-year conflict. (Eritrea regained its independence after a referendum in 1993.) He was overthrown by a military coup known as the Derg in 1974 and killed by them in 1975.

The new regime was met with armed resistance from large landowners, royalists, and nobility. The resistance was largely centered in Eritrea, adding fire to the already-existing tensions there. Sensing the disarray, Somalia attacked, but was eventually driven out by the Ethiopians with the assistance of Soviet arms and 17,000 Cuban combat forces. This put the country squarely in the Soviet sphere of influence and in 1987, a new Soviet-style constitution was passed by popular referendum. The country was renamed the People’s Democratic Republic of Ethiopia.

The Derg regime continued to hold power until 1991, when their collapse was hastened by droughts and a famine—which affected around 8 million people and left 1 million dead—as well as by insurrections, particularly in the northern regions of Tigray and Eritrea. In 1994, a new constitution was written; the first free general elections were held in 1995. Since then the main political challenges in Ethiopia have been allegations of election corruption; the rise of terrorist

94 groups in neighboring Somali; and the role of the TPLF (Tigray People’s Liberation Front) a political party based in the northern Tigray Province. But on the bright side, Ethiopia also passed a historical milestone in 2018 when it elected its first female president, Sahle-Work Zewde.

Kenya

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 224,080 square miles

• Capital: Nairobi

• Languages: English and Kiswahili are the official languages; numerous indigenous languages are also spoken.

• Ethnic groups: Kikuyu 22%, Luhya 14%, Luo 13%, Kalenjin 12%, Kamba 11%, Kisii 6%, Meru 6%, other African 15%, non-African (Asian, European, and Arab) 1%

• Location: Kenya straddles the equator on the eastern coast of Africa. It is bordered by Ethiopia, Somalia, South Sudan, Uganda, and Tanzania.

• Geography: Kenya has an impressively varied landscape. Lake Victoria is on the southwestern border of the country, with Tanzania to the south. The other features of Kenya range from a flat, bush-covered plain in the northeast to beautiful Indian Ocean beaches, scenic highlands, lakes, the Great Rift Valley, and the towering Mount Kenya.

• Population: 45,925,301 (estimate)

• Religions: Christian 82.5%, Muslim 11.1%, Traditionalists 1.6%, other 1.7%, none 2.4%, unspecified 0.7%

• Time zone: Kenya is on East Africa Time, eight hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 2pm in Nairobi.

95 National Holidays: Kenya

In addition to the holidays listed below, Kenya 05/01 Labour Day/May Day celebrates a number of national holidays that 06/01 Madaraka Day follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid al-Fitr. To find out if you will be traveling 10/20 Mashujaa Day during these holidays, please visit www. timeanddate.com/holidays. 12/12 Jamhuri Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day

12/26 Boxing Day

Kenya: A Brief History Some of the earliest humans made their home in the land now known as Kenya. And since those primordial times, people from all over Africa have migrated here—such as the aristocratic Hima tribe, who moved in prior to A.D. 1000, and established large kingdoms and introduced cattle herding. They were followed by the Bantu-speaking peoples, including the Kikuyu tribe, which remains the largest ethnic group in Kenya today.

This wave of internal migration was followed by outside traders. First the Persians and Arabs, who sailed south from the Middle East as early as the 1st century B.C.E. (during the Roman era). They became a dominant trade presence in the coastal region, giving rise to the development of the Swahili language, which blends Arabic with Bantu—one of the earliest examples of a shared language created for international trade. In time the coastal area was divided up into wealthy city-states known as the Swahili States. While these states had an Arabic influence—notably in the introduction of Islam in 8th century—most scholars believe they retained a Bantu cultural core, giving them a sophisticated cosmopolitan culture that was only enhanced by trade with Asia across the Indian Ocean. Mombasa, one of Kenya’s major cities today, originated as one of these city-states.

The first Europeans to have an impact on East Africa were the Portuguese, who arrived by sea in the 15th century with an eye on controlling the Indian Ocean sea routes. They were succeeded by the Omani Arabs in the 1730s, who unified the coastal states but also began amplifying the slave trade, selling prisoners from the interior of Kenya and other nations throughout the Middle East and to plantations in the Caribbean. They in turn were ousted by the British, who by the latter half of the 19th century had become the dominant power, drawing the borders of the newly defined nation of Kenya. The British ended the slave trade but claimed all land outside of so-called “tribal areas” as crown land available for white settlement.

British colonial rule created a stratified social system in Kenya. At the top where the European settlers, brought in to begin large-scale farming so that crops like coffee could be exported. Then a large group of immigrants from India, who came to work on the railroad, open businesses, or as soldiers in World War I. As India had been under British rule for some time, the Indian community was viewed more favorably by the British than the African tribespeople, who were at the bottom of the social ladder. There was also a complex hierarchy among the tribes, depending on which group the British government felt would support them.

96 This system led to tensions and disparities not only between the Africans and the British, but also between the tribes. The Kikuyus in particular took a lead role in creating political groups that advocated for African suffrage, fairer taxation, and the return of native lands in the 1920s. Many of these movements were put on pause during World War II, when Kenyan soldiers bravely fought for the Allies, and then resumed afterwards. A turning point came in 1952 with the start of the Mau Mau Uprising, a four-year rebellion that put the country on the path to independence in 1963.

It also solidified the political importance of the Kikuyu tribe as they were the primary supporters of the Mau Mau movement. Jomo Kenyatta, the first president of independent Kenya, was a Kikuyu. Though he had been involved in the Mau Mau rebellion, he established moderate, pro- Western policies and was acknowledged as Mzee, “the wise old one,” by his own people and many world leaders upon his death in 1978.

Kenyatta’s successor, Daniel arap Moi, continued to follow similar social and economic policies from 1978 to 2002. But Moi’s years as president were not without controversy, especially his personal fortune (rumored to be vast and corrupt), authoritarian methods, and his reliance on ethnic favoritism to stay in power. Under his government, tribal tensions began to bubble over, resulting in mass evictions of the Kikuyu and oppressive measures against other groups, such as the Luo. These tensions, plus periodic attacks by the radical al-Shabab group, have largely dominated recent Kenyan politics in the past decade, but so too have happier news stories, like the discovery of oil and the recent birth of a record number of elephant calves.

Uganda

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 93,065 square miles

• Capital: Kampala

• Languages: English (official language), Ganda or Luganda, other Niger-Congo languages, Nilo-Saharan languages, Swahili, and Arabic

• Ethnicity: Baganda 16.5%, Banyankole 9.6%, Basoga 8.8%, Bakiga 7.1%, Iteso 7%, Langi 6.3%, Bagisu 4.9%, Acholi 4.4%, Lugbara 3.3%, other 32.1%

• Location: Uganda is bordered by Kenya on the East, the Democratic Republic of the Congo on the West, South Sudan on the North, and Rwanda and Tanzania on the South.

• Geography: Uganda consists of a plateau with mountains along the border. It is surrounded by three lakes: Lake Albert, Lake Edward, and Lake Victoria.

• Population: 39,570,125 (estimate)

• Religions: Protestant 45.1%, Roman Catholic 39.3%, Muslim 13.7%, other 1.6%, none 0.2%

• Time Zone: Uganda is on Central Africa Time, seven hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 1pm in Uganda.

97 National Holidays: Uganda

In addition to the holidays listed below, 03/08 International Women’s Day Uganda celebrates a number of national 05/01 May Day holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid al-Fitr. To find out if you will 06/03 Martyr’s Day be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 06/09 National Heroes Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 10/09 Independence Day

01/26 Liberation Day 12/25 Christmas Day

02/16 Remembrance of Archbishop 12/26 Boxing Day Janani Luwum

Uganda: A Brief History Agricultural Bantu settlers are believed to be some of the first inhabitants of Uganda, dating back to 1,000 B.C. In the 17th and 18th centuries, several kingdoms were formed, including Bunyoro, Buganda, Busoga, Ankole, and Toro. By the 19th century, English Protestant and French Catholic missionaries arrived, whose influence can still be seen in modern-day Uganda. In 1894, the kingdom of Buganda became a British Protectorate and the British Colonial Office took control of the country in 1905.

In 1921, a legislature and executive council were formed to bring power back to the local people and by 1955, Ugandans made up more than half of the legislature. Britain granted independence to Uganda in 1962, and the first elections were held on March 1, 1961. Benedicto Kiwanuka of the Democratic Party became the first chief minister. Uganda became a republic the following year, maintaining its Commonwealth membership.

In succeeding years, supporters of a centralized state vied with those in favor of a loose federation and a strong role for tribally-based local kingdoms. Political maneuvering climaxed in February 1966, when Milton Obote, the Prime Minister, suspended the constitution and assumed all government powers, removing the positions of president and vice president. In September 1967, a new constitution proclaimed Uganda a republic, gave the president even greater powers, and abolished the traditional kingdoms.

After a military coup on January 25, 1971, Obote was deposed from power and the dictator Idi Amin seized control of the country. Amin ruled Uganda with the military for the next eight years and carried out mass killings within the country to maintain his rule. An estimated 300,000 Ugandans lost their lives at the hands of his regime, many of them in the north, which he associated with Obote’s loyalists. Aside from his brutalities, he forcibly removed the entrepreneurial Indian minority from Uganda, which left the country’s economy in ruins.

A border altercation involving Ugandan exiles who had a camp close to the Ugandan border of Mutukula resulted in an attack by the Uganda army into Tanzania. In October 1978, the Tanzanian armed forces repulsed an incursion by Amin’s troops into Tanzanian territory. The Tanzanian

98 army, backed by Ugandan exiles, waged a war of liberation against Amin’s troops and the Libyan soldiers sent to help him. On April 11, 1979, Kampala was captured and Amin fled with his remaining forces to Libya.

Amin’s reign ended after the Uganda-Tanzania War in 1979, in which Tanzanian forces aided by Ugandan exiles invaded Uganda. This led to the return of Obote, who was deposed again in 1985 by General Tito Okello. Okello ruled for six months until he was deposed. This occurred after the so-called “bush war” by the National Resistance Army (NRA) operating under the leadership of Yoweri Museveni, and various rebel groups, including the Federal Democratic Movement of Andrew Kayiira, and another belonging to John Nkwaanga. During the Bush War the army carried out mass killings of non-combatants.

Negotiations between the Okello government and the NRA were conducted in Nairobi in the fall of 1985, with Kenyan President Daniel arap Moi seeking a cease-fire and a coalition government in Uganda. Although agreeing in late 1985 to a cease-fire, the NRA continued fighting, and seized Kampala and the country in late January 1986, forcing Okello’s forces to flee north into Sudan. Museveni’s forces organized a government with Museveni as president.

Since assuming power, the government dominated by the political grouping created by Museveni and his followers, the National Resistance Movement (NRM or the “Movement”), has largely put an end to the human rights abuses of earlier governments, initiated substantial political liberalization and general press freedom, and instituted broad economic reforms after consultation with the International Monetary Fund, World Bank, and donor governments.

Between 1998 and 2003, the Ugandan army was involved in the Second Congo War in the Democratic Republic of the Congo. Uganda continues to support rebel groups, such as the Movement for the Liberation of Congo and some factions of the Rally for Congolese Democracy.

In August 2005, Parliament voted to change the constitution to lift presidential term limits, allowing Museveni to run for a third term if he wished to do so. Mesuveni remains the current President of Uganda.

Zanzibar

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 950 square miles

• Capital: Zanzibar City

• Languages: Swahili is the official language; English and Arabic are also spoken.

• Ethnicity: Arabs, Hadimu, Swahili, and Tumbatu

• Location: The archipelago is of the eastern coast of mainland Tanzania, in the Indian Ocean

• Population: 1,303,569

• Religions: Majority Muslim

99 • Time Zone: Tanzania is on Eastern Africa Time, seven to eight hours ahead of U.S. ET (depending if the U.S. is on Daylight Savings Time). When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 2 or 3pm in Zanzibar City.

National Holidays: Zanzibar

In addition to the holidays listed below, both 05/01 Worker’s Day Zanzibar and mainland Tanzania celebrate 06/07 Saba Saba a number of national holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid 08/08 Peasants’ Day el Fitri. To find out if you will be traveling during these holidays, please visit www. 10/14 Nyerere Day timeanddate.com/holidays. 12/09 Republic Day 01/01 New Year’s Day 12/25 Christmas Day 01/12 Zanzibar Revolution Day 12/26 Boxing Day 04/26 Union Day

Zanzibar: A Brief History Tanzania is home to the Olduvai Gorge, the site where some of the earliest human remains on earth have been discovered. For hundreds of thousands of years, hunter-gatherer societies inhabited the area, though details about them are lost in the mists of time. More recently, the interior of the country has been occupied by pastoral and agricultural societies like the Maasai, who are believed to have migrated from the southern Nile during the 15th to 17th century.

In contrast, the coastal region has a different migration story. Over one thousand years ago, sea-borne traders established a strong Arab presence on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast, which includes the island of Zanzibar. A vast trade network sprang up, with Zanzibar as a key trading port between Africa, the Middle East, and India. (Sadly, this included a thriving slave trade.) The island’s wealth and strategic location drew the attention of the Portuguese, who ruled it for about 200 years starting in 1502. But by the 1700s they were outed by the Sultans of Oman, who reestablished trade with the Arabic world and made Stone Town their capital in 1840.

Rivalry among European colonial powers brought historic change to the area in the late 19th century. The British made Zanzibar their protectorate in 1890 and abolished the slave trade. But on the mainland Britain yielded to Germany when the two countries signed an agreement giving Tanzania (then known as Tanganyika) to the Germans, while Britain got Kenya and Uganda. This agreement ended in World War I, when Germany and Britain fought intense land and naval battles in Tanganyika. Following Germany’s defeat in Europe, Britain was put in charge of the League of Nations mandate for Tanganyika.

In the 20th century, the movement to end colonialism in Tanganyika took shape among farmers’ unions and cooperatives. Julius Nyerere led the political party that grew out of this movement and became the country’s first president when it made a peaceful transition to independence in

100 1961. The island of Zanzibar gained independence in 1963, in a transition that involved a bloody revolution during which the bulk of the Arab population was expelled. In 1964, Tanganyika, Zanzibar, and Pemba (another offshore island) joined to become the United Republic of Tanzania.

Tanzania’s leaders stood at the forefront of African liberation movements during the 1970s and the early 1980s. They allowed Mozambique nationalists to use Tanzanian territory for training and attack bases as they fought for independence from the Portuguese. In 1979, Tanzanian troops helped overthrow the regime of Ugandan dictator Idi Amin. President Nyerere also played a key role in the negotiations for ending white rule in Zimbabwe. Although it maintained good relations with the West, Tanzania followed a strongly socialist path in the decades immediately following independence.

Part of the reason Tanzania was able to take such a leading role was the relative lack of tension between tribal groups and the use of the shared language (Swahili) which was adopted early on in 1961. That is not to say that there isn’t any friction—the past two decades have seen have been some strong political divisions, especially between Zanzibar and the mainland. A key example of this divide occurred shortly after the highly contested 2000 general elections, which were won by a party with strong support on the mainland, the CCM. Not long after the election, the offices of the Zanzibar-based opposition party—the CUF—were raided by the police and the CUF chairman was charged with unlawful assembly. Supporters took to the streets in protest, which sadly disintegrated into a violent clash with the police. Ultimately the heads of both parties joined together to restore calm, but the incident prompted many in Tanzania to call for a greater level of freedom for opposition parties.

In addition to political struggles, the residents of Zanzibar have also struggled with their dependence on the mainland for electricity, which is supplied by an underwater cable. In 2008 the cable’s connection failed, leaving the island without electricity for roughly one month. (Many in Zanzibar have backup generators for this very reason.) But these internal squabbles are relatively mild, especially compared to other African nations. In recent years the relative stability has helped Tanzania emerge as one of the anchors for the East African region, accepting refugees from the conflicts in Rwanda, hosting peace talks for Burundi, and forming an East African trade alliance with neighboring states like Kenya.

Tanzania

Facts, Figures & National Holidays • Area: 365,755 square miles

• Capital: Dodoma

• Languages: Swahili is the official language; English and tribal languages are also spoken.

• Ethnicity: Mainland - African 99% (of which 95% are Bantu consisting of more than 130 tribes), other 1% (consisting of Asian, European, and Arab); Zanzibar - Arab, African, mixed Arab and African

101 • Location: Tanzania is bordered by Burundi, Democratic Republic of the Congo, Kenya, Malawi, Mozambique, Rwanda, Uganda, and Zambia

• Geography: Mainland Tanzania’s landscape is flat and low along the coast. In the interior, a plateau at an average altitude of about 4,000 feet makes up most of the country, and isolated mountain groups rise in the northeast and southwest.

• Population: 51,045,882 (estimate)

• Religions: Mainland - Christian 61.4%, Muslim 35.2%, folk religion 1.8%, other 0.2%, unaffliliated 1.4%; Zanzibar—majority Muslim

• Time Zone: Tanzania is on Eastern Africa Time, eight hours ahead of U.S. EST. When it is 6am in Washington D.C., it is 2pm in Dar es Salaam.

National Holidays: Tanzania

In addition to the holidays listed below, 05/01 Worker’s Day Tanzania celebrates a number of national 06/07 Saba Saba holidays that follow a lunar calendar, such as Easter and Eid el Fitri. To find out if you will 08/08 Peasants’ Day be traveling during these holidays, please visit www.timeanddate.com/holidays. 10/14 Nyerere Day

01/01 New Year’s Day 12/09 Republic Day

01/12 Zanzibar Revolution Day 12/25 Christmas Day

04/26 Union Day 12/26 Boxing Day

Tanzania: A Brief History Tanzania is home to the Olduvai Gorge, the site where some of the earliest human remains on earth have been discovered. For hundreds of thousands of years, hunter-gatherer societies inhabited the area, though details about them are lost in the mists of time. More recently, the interior of the country has been occupied by pastoral and agricultural societies.

The cattle-herding Maasai are notable among these. They are believed to have migrated from the southern Nile during the 15th to 17th century, and they continue live in mainland Tanzania to this day. In the past, this tribe’s reputation as fierce warriors may have prevented some intertribal clashes as neither the slave trade nor tribal warfare had much impact in their territory. Interestingly, while the Maasai may have captured the public imagination, they are not a majority tribe in Tanzania, which boasts a stunning diversity of over 100 tribal groups.

In contrast, the coastal region has a different migration story. Over one thousand years ago, sea-borne traders established a strong Arab presence on Tanzania’s Indian Ocean coast, which includes the island of Zanzibar. A vast trade network sprang up, with Zanzibar as a key trading port between Africa, the Middle East, and India. (Sadly, this included a thriving slave trade.)

102 The island’s wealth and strategic location drew the attention of the Portuguese, who ruled it for about 200 years starting in 1502. But by the 1700s they were outed by the Sultans of Oman, who reestablished trade with the Arabic world and made Stone Town their capital in 1840.

Rivalry among European colonial powers brought historic change to the area in the late 19th century. Livingston and Stanley were among the first Englishmen to arrive in the interior, where Stanley’s famous “Dr. Livingston, I presume” was uttered in 1871 by Lake Tanganyika. The British then made Zanzibar their protectorate in 1890 and abolished the slave trade. But on the mainland Britain yielded to Germany when the two countries signed an agreement giving Tanzania (then known as Tanganyika) to the Germans, while Britain got Kenya and Uganda. This agreement ended in World War I, when Germany and Britain fought intense land and naval battles in Tanganyika. Following Germany’s defeat in Europe, Britain was put in charge of the League of Nations mandate for Tanganyika.

In the 20th century, the movement to end colonialism in Tanganyika took shape among farmers’ unions and cooperatives. Julius Nyerere led the political party that grew out of this movement and became the country’s first president when it made a peaceful transition to independence in 1961. The island of Zanzibar gained independence in 1963, in a transition that involved a bloody revolution during which the bulk of the Arab population was expelled. In 1964, Tanganyika, Zanzibar, and Pemba (another offshore island) joined to become the United Republic of Tanzania.

Tanzania’s leaders stood at the forefront of African liberation movements during the 1970s and the early 1980s. They allowed Mozambique nationalists to use Tanzanian territory for training and attack bases as they fought for independence from the Portuguese. In 1979, Tanzanian troops helped overthrow the regime of Ugandan dictator Idi Amin. President Nyerere also played a key role in the negotiations for ending white rule in Zimbabwe. Although it maintained good relations with the West, Tanzania followed a strongly socialist path in the decades immediately following independence.

Part of the reason Tanzania was able to take such a leading role was the relative lack of tension between tribal groups and the use of the shared language (Swahili) which was adopted early on in 1961. That is not to say that there isn’t any friction—the past two decades have seen have been some strong political divisions, especially between Zanzibar and the mainland—but these internal squabbles are relatively mild compared to other African nations. In recent years the relative stability has helped Tanzania emerge as one of the anchors for the East African region, accepting refugees from the conflicts in Rwanda, hosting peace talks for Burundi, and forming an East African trade alliance with neighboring states like Kenya.

103 RESOURCES

Suggested Reading

Kenya Love, Life, and Elephants: An African Love Story by Daphne Sheldrick (2012, Memoir) The lively and engaging biography of a much-admired expert on African elephants—and the first person to raise one in captivity from birth. The book recounts her experiences helping her husband to create and run one of Kenya’s national parks and her role in raising orphaned elephants to release back into the wild.

West with the Night by Beryl Markham (1942, Memoir) A childhood in Kenya and a career as a bush pilot during the 1930s—what more could a girl want? The author’s stylish prose evokes her free and adventure-loving spirit. Reissued in 2015.

Running with the Kenyans: Passion, Adventure, and the Secrets of the Fastest People on Earth by Adharanand Finn (2012, Sport) An amateur runner from Britain, Finn uproots his family for a chance to train in Kenya, where many of the best professional runners come from. While some reviewers felt this book was more for the running enthusiast, others praised its mix of sports and travel writing.

It’s Our Turn to Eat: The Story of a Kenyan Whistle-Blower by Michela Wrong (2009, History/ Politics) Journalist-turned-author Michela Wrong uses the dramatic true story of anti-corruption officer John Githongo as a way to shed light on tribal politics and corruption in Kenya.

Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen (1937, Biography/Memoir) The classic tale of a young woman who gives up her life in Denmark to run a coffee plantation in Kenya around the time of WWI. Her lyrical descriptions and love for the land and people have made this book an international favorite.

Ethiopia Beneath the Lion’s Gaze (2011) and The Shadow King (2019) by Maaza Mengiste (Historical Fiction) Award-winning Ethiopian-born author Maaza Mengiste tells the tales of a family during the revolution that resulted in the overthrow of Emperor Haile Selassie in 1974 in Beneath the Lion’s Gaze and the struggles of an orphaned servant in the 1930s as the country faces Mussolini’s impending invasion in The Shadow King.

Cutting for Stone by Abraham Verghese (2009, Fiction) A sweeping novel about the twin sons of a British doctor and Indian nun born and raised in Ethiopia. When they fall for the same woman, one twin flees to America, where he gets a job at a NYC hospital…and then the past catches up to him.

Sweetness in the Belly by Camilla Gibb (2007, Fiction) From the author of The Kite Runner comes the story of Lilly, an orphaned British girl raised at a Sufi shrine in Morocco whose life changes dramatically when she goes on pilgrimage Harar, Ethiopia.

104 Eating the Flowers of Paradise: One Man’s Journey Through Ethiopia and Yemen by Kevin Rushby (1999, Travel Narrative) Travels through Ethiopia and Yemen, including an examination of the political and historical landscapes of Ethiopian culture.

Sign and the Seal: The Quest for the Lost Ark of the Covenant by Graham Hancock (1992, History) A British journalist explores the mystery of the Lost Ark of the Covenant.

The Emperor: Downfall of an Autocrat by Ryszard Kapuscinski (1978, Non-Fiction) A Polish journalist captures the story of Haile Selassie, the Emperor of Ethiopia from 1930-1974, and his downfall through interviews with Selassie’s associates and servants.

Uganda Kintu by Jennifer Nansubuga Makumbi (2014, Fiction) What happens when your family is cursed? This epic novel follows several generations of the same family, all descendants of Kintu Kata, a Ugandan man who unleashes a curse on his family in 1750. The author won the 2014 Commonwealth Prize for this debut novel and as since written other well-received books like 2020’s A Girl is a Body of Water, about a 12-year-old’s trying to find out who her mother is.

Operation Thunderbolt: Flight 139 and the Raid on Entebbe Airport, the Most Audacious Hostage Rescue Mission in History by Saul David (2017, Non-Fiction) Days after Idi Amin Dada is declared President, an Air France flight is hijacked and diverted to Entebbe Airport on the shore of Lake Victoria in Uganda for six days where Israeli Special Forces must stage a rescue mission to free the hostages.

The Teeth May Smile but the Heart Does Not Forget: Murder and Memory in Uganda by Andrew Rice (2010, Journalism/Narrative) Journalist Andrew Rice spent four years in Uganda researching this gripping story of a man’s quest for the truth about the murder of his father during the brutal reign of dictator Idi Amin.

Abyssinian Chronicles: A Novel by Moses Isegawa (1998, Fiction) The story of a young man living in Uganda following the end of President Idi Amin’s regime.

Zanzibar The Gravel Heart by Abdulrazak Gurnah (2017, Fiction) A powerful and poetic novel about the impact of family secrets, this story follows Salim as he grows up in 1970s Zanzibar under the shadow of a distant father, possibly unfaithful mother, and an well-loved uncle who offers him a new life in London. But a new life means new difficulties, and the old secrets haven’t really gone away. The author himself immigrated from Zanzibar to Great Britain, and the story resonates with many personal details and insights.

Zanzibar Uhuru: Revolution, Two Women and the Challenge of Survival by Anne M Chappel (2015, Historical Fiction) A bid for independence, a brutal uprising, and a father’s difficult choice bind two very different young women—an Arab girl name Fatima and Elizabeth, the daughter of a British official—in ways that take decades to play out. While the story is fiction, many readers felt the book gave them a good background on Zanzibar’s history.

105 The Sultan’s Shadow: One Family’s Rule at the Crossroads of East and West by Christiane Bird (2010, History) Historian Bird focuses on the end of Arabian rule in Zanzibar, especially Oman’s Sultan Said, who ascended to the throne in 1806, and his daughter Princess Salme, whose rebellious life included a love of learning, a secret pregnancy, and marriage with a foreign commoner.

Death in Zanzibar by M.M. Kaye (1999, Mystery) There’s a killer loose in Zanzibar, and Dany Ashton is determined to find out who. A fun mystery-romance-adventure in the same vein as Mary Stewart or Agatha Christie.

Eastern Africa: Kenya & Tanzania Love, Life, and Elephants: An African Love Story by Daphne Sheldrick (2012, Memoir) The lively and engaging biography of a much-admired expert on African elephants—and the first person to raise one in captivity from birth. The book recounts her experiences helping her husband to create and run one of Kenya’s national parks and her role in raising orphaned elephants to release back into the wild.

West with the Night by Beryl Markham (1942, Memoir) A childhood in Kenya and a career as a bush pilot during the 1930s—what more could a girl want? The author’s stylish prose evokes her free and adventure-loving spirit. Reissued in 2015.

Serengeti: A Scientist in Paradise by Anthony Sinclair (2012, Ecology/Memoir) Professor Sinclair first came to study zoology in the Serengeti in the 1960s, and he still works there today. This book combines his scientific knowledge, history of the national park, and lively anecdotes about life as a field researcher.

Running with the Kenyans: Passion, Adventure, and the Secrets of the Fastest People on Earth by Adharanand Finn (2012, Sport) An amateur runner from Britain, Finn uproots his family for a chance to train in Kenya, where many of the best professional runners come from. While some reviewers felt this book was more for the running enthusiast, others praised its mix of sports and travel writing.

Crazy River: Exploration and Folly in East Africa by Richard Grant (2011, Travel Narrative) Author Grant risks his life to travel the relatively unexplored Malagarasi River from Tanzania into Burundi, which he then follows up with a jaunt into Rwanda. At times adventurous, scary, and crazy.

It’s Our Turn to Eat: The Story of a Kenyan Whistle-Blower by Michela Wrong (2009, History/ Politics) Journalist-turned-author Michela Wrong uses the dramatic true story of anti-corruption officer John Githongo as a way to shed light on tribal politics and corruption in Kenya.

Unbowed by Wangari Maathai (2004, Memoir) There are many words to describe the extortionary life of Wangari Maathai—activist, environmentalist, mother of three, and 2004 Noble Peace Prize winner—but this is her powerful and uplifting story in her own words.

106 Through a Window, My Thirty Years with the Chimpanzees of Gombe by Jane Goodall (1990, Natural History). The title says it all—30 years’ worth of fieldwork, observations, and conservation activism. Other titles are available by the same author, who is recognized worldwide as the authority on chimpanzees.

The Gunny Sack by Moyez G. Vassanji (1989, Fiction) A sweeping novel that focuses on Asian experiences in East Africa. Generations of Asians from Tanzania, Zanzibar, Kenya, and Uganda offer views and perspectives on the past and the future. Considered a classic, it has had several reprintings including a 2005 edition.

Out of Africa by Isak Dinesen (1937, Biography/Memoir) The classic tale of a young woman who gives up her life in Denmark to run a coffee plantation in Kenya around the time of WWI. Her lyrical descriptions and love for the land and people have made this book an international favorite.

Suggested Film & Video

Ethiopia Lamb (2015, Drama) When Ephraim is sent to live with some relatives after the death of his mother, he brings his beloved pet lamb with him. But Easter is coming, and Ephraim will do everything he can to ensure his friend survives. Lamb was the first Ethiopian film to show at the Cannes Film Festival and has been praised for showcasing rural life in Ethiopia.

Difret (2014, Drama) Loosely based on a real landmark court case in Ethiopia, this story centers around female attorney Meaza Ashenafi as she defends her 14-year-old client Hirut Assefa from murder charges after Hirut shoots a man who tried to abduct her into marriage.

Live and Become (2005, Drama) A touching French-language film about an Ethiopian boy who is Orthodox Christian but disguises himself as Jewish in order to escape famine and emigrate to Israel.

National Geographic Explorer: Search for the Lost Ark (1994, TV Series) A British journalist goes in search of the Ark of the Covenant. Or if you want a more action-adventure take on the subject, Indiana Jones and the Raiders of the Lost Ark (1981) is always fun. Note that while the film claims that the Ark of the Covenant is in Egypt, many believe that the Ark is located in a church in Axum, Ethiopia.

Kenya Eye in The Sky (2015, Drama/War) A tense and thought-provoking war drama in which British commander Katherine Powell (played by Helen Mirren) faces the most difficult choice of her career. While running a drone mission against terrorists in Kenya, a young girl enters the kill zone, forcing a moral dilemma.

The First Grader (2010, Biopic/Drama) An 84-year old Kenyan villager is determined to learn how to read and write no matter the odds. An uplifting movie based on a true story.

107 The Constant Gardener (2005, Thriller) A British diplomat, Justin Quale, and his wife Tessa relocate to Kenya. But when Tessa is murdered and British embassy tries to meddle in Justin’s investigation, it becomes apparent that Tessa’s death is just the tip of the iceberg.

Nowhere in Africa (2001, Drama) A Jewish couple flee Germany for Kenya at the start of WWII and try to build a new life in a strange land. In German, with subtitles.

Out of Africa (1985, Drama/Romance) A young Danish woman falls for Kenya, her new coffee plantation, and a restless big-game hunter in 1910s. Based on the book by the same name and starring Robert Redford and Meryl Streep in one of her early roles.

Uganda Queen of Katwe (2016, Drama) The inspiring story of a Ugandan girl living in a slum who learns to play chess and goes on to become a Woman Candidate Master at the World Chess Olympiad.

Who Killed Captain Alex? (2010, Action/Comedy) This low-budget action film is one of about 40 that have been produced in “Wakaliwood,” a slum of Kampala. Made for about $200, it was masterminded by director Nabwana Isaac Geoffrey Godfrey, who has gained a cult following as the “Tarantino of Uganda.” Even if you don’t like the gleeful mayhem, you can’t help but be impressed by the resourcefulness of the production.

Last King of Scotland (2006, Historical Drama) Forest Whitaker won Best Actor at the 2006 Academy Awards for his role as Ugandan President, Idi Amin, in this film which follows the story of the Ugandan President’s personal physician and confidant.

Zanzibar Jonah (2013, Fantasy/Drama). Two young men, Mbwana and his best friend Juma, photograph a gigantic fish living in the sea near their hometown, bringing international attention to the small Zanzibari town. Years pass and when Mbwana encounters the fish again, he sets out to defeat the beast that ruined his life.

As Old As My Tongue: The Myth and Life of Bi Kidude (2008, Documentary). A world-famous, Zanzibari-born Taarab singer, Bi Kidude was believed to be the oldest touring singer in the world before her death in 2013. While much of her early life is unknown, filmmaker Andy Jones digs into the culture and traditions Bi Kidude was born in as he outlines her career and awards as a Taarab singer.

Shadow Tree (2014, Short). A Zanzibari boy struggles to keep a fish alive in a muddy puddle, on the water-insecure island.

Curse of an Addict - Zanzibar (2015, Documentary). In Zanzibar, heroin is wide-spread, with between 7,000 and 12,000 people struggling with addiction. Follow Seif, a heroin addict, who believes he was cursed into his addiction. Seif struggles with who he once was and who he should have become, battling against his addiction to be the man he wants to be.

108 Tanzania Jane (2017, Documentary) An inspiring documentary about the life of Jane Goodall, the world’s foremost expert on chimpanzees, and her work at Gombe Stream National Park in Tanzania.

Throw Down Your Heart (2008, Music) Did you know the banjo originated in Africa? Well-known banjo player Bela Fleck traces the instrument’s roots through Tanzania, Uganda, Gambia, and Mali, jamming with fellow musicians along the way. If you are more interested in the music than the film, some of the songs have been released as an album called Throw Down Your Heart: Africa Sessions (2020).

Useful Websites

Overseas Adventure Travel World Weather www.oattravel.com www.intellicast.com www.weather.com Overseas Adventure Travel Store www.wunderground.com www.oatshop.com Basic Travel Phrases (80 languages) Overseas Adventure Travel Frequently www.travlang.com/languages Asked Questions www.oattravel.com/faq Packing Tips www.travelite.org International Health Information/CDC (Centers for Disease Control) U.S. Customs & Border Protection http://wwwnc.cdc.gov/travel www.cbp.gov/travel

Electricity & Plugs Transportation Security www.worldstandards.eu/electricity/ Administration (TSA) plugs-and-sockets www.tsa.gov

Foreign Exchange Rates National Passport Information Center www.xe.com/currencyconverter www.travel.state.gov www.oanda.com/converter/classic Holidays Worldwide ATM Locators www.timeanddate.com/holidays www.mastercard.com/atm www.visa.com/atmlocator

109 VACCINATIONS NOW REQUIRED FOR ALL TRAVELERS, SHIP CREW, TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADERS, AND COACH DRIVERS Plus, updated Health & Safety Protocols for our Land Tours

The health and safety of our travelers is always our #1 priority, and we understand travelers are concerned about exploring the world in light of the unprecedented crisis we are currently facing. To ensure your safety and give you peace of mind, we have worked with our regional team and listened to government guidance and feedback from our travelers to create these health and safety protocols for our trips. As we continue to make changes, we will keep our website updated with the latest information.

VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS • All travelers, ship crew, and Trip Experience AND UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY Leaders will have their temperature checked PROTOCOLS FOR SMALL SHIP every time they return to the ship using a non- ADVENTURES contact infrared temperature scanner. • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against • All meals are served by the dining staff— COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure buffets are no longer available. and provide proof of vaccination upon VACCINATION REQUIREMENTS AND boarding the ship. If you are unable to UPDATED HEALTH & SAFETY PROTOCOLS provide proof of vaccination upon arrival at FOR SMALL GROUP ADVENTURES ON LAND your destination, you will have to return • All travelers must be fully vaccinated against home at your own expense. COVID-19 at least 14 days prior to departure. If To meet this requirement, please bring your you are unable to provide proof of vaccination original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card upon arrival at your destination, you will with you on your trip. The white card must have to return home at your own expense. display your name, type of vaccine, and the To meet this requirement, please bring your date(s) the vaccine was administered. We also original COVID-19 Vaccination Record Card with suggest taking a picture of this card to keep for you on your trip. The white card must display your records as a backup. your name, type of vaccine, and the date(s) • All local Trip Experience Leaders, the vaccine was administered. We also suggest fully ship staff, and crew will be taking a picture of this card to keep for your vaccinated against COVID-19. records as a backup. fully • All coach drivers will be • All local Trip Experience Leaders will be fully vaccinated against COVID-19. vaccinated against COVID-19. • All public areas will be sanitized nightly and • All coach drivers will be fully vaccinated all ships are equipped with High Efficiency against COVID-19. Particulate Air (HEPA) filters.

Help us ensure travelers’ safety and health while on our trips. Please follow best health and hygiene practices to prevent the spread of illness—wash your hands regularly and cover your mouth when coughing or sneezing. Together, we can create a safer travel experience for everyone.

Learn more at www.oattravel.com/covid-update

110 Notes

111 Notes

112 Notes

113 Notes

114 I n d i a n O c e a n Arusha KENYA Jozani Chwaka N.P. Bay Zanzibar Island From Addis Ababa From To/From Addis Ababa Karatu Ngorongoro Crater Unguja Lodge Menai Bay Menai Zanzibar Channel

Zanzibar

Fumba Beach Fumba

TANZANIA

A

I

N A (Stone Town) Z N T A Serengeti N.P. Lake Eyasi

A Lalibela

E Addis Ababa Addis

R Aksum T é z e

k I e

T R le i

N E e National Park

u Gondar l

B

Bahir Dar Lake

Tana

Simien Mountains N

A

D U S ETHIOPIA To/From Entebbe Lake Victoria Addis Ababa To/From Addis Ababa Mount Nanyuki Serena Kenya N.P. Kenya TANZANIA UGANDA Mountain Lodge Mountain Lodge To/From Nairobi To/From Miles

KENYA

N.P. To/From U.S. Internal flight Land route Boat cruise

. Queen C Bwindi N.P. .

R Elizabeth PRE-TRIP EXTENSIONS. POST-TRIP EXTENSIONS D RWANDA SUDAN SOUTH Sweetwaters Game Reserve 0 200

115 YOUR TRIP EXPERIENCE LEADER

Your O.A.T. Trip Experience Leader is an insider who lives in the destinations you are exploring. They are not just knowledgeable, but personable and personal—eager to understand your own interests, and happy to share their own. This makes all the diff erence between just visiting a place, and experiencing its true spirit.

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