Buying Guide Best of Year 2012 62 Italy 2 California 67 Austria 29 New York 70 Slovenia 30 Virgina 70 Croatia 33 Washington 71 Hungary 42 Other U.S
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BUYING GUIDE BEST OF YEAR 2012 62 ITALY 2 CALIFORNIA 67 AUSTRIA 29 NEW YORK 70 SLOVENIA 30 VIRGINA 70 CROATIA 33 WASHINGTON 71 HUNGARY 42 OTHER U.S. 72 SPIRITS 43 ARGENTINA 74 BEER 45 SPAIN FOR ADDITIONAL RATINGS AND REVIEWS, VISIT 52 FRANCE BUYINGGUIDE.WINEMAG.COM WineMag.com | 1 CALIFORNIA KILLER REDS, BEAUTIFUL BUBBLIES AND STUNNING SWEETIES TO END THE YEAR RIGHT s another year comes to a close, it’s time to decide what wines ropean Editor Roger Voss takes a look at Champagne. From $32 to more to share with loved ones during the holidays and what wines to than $200, there are options suitable for every wine lover’s budget. If you’re A stock up on for the chilly months ahead. Although whites and ro- entertaining this season, and hoping to pour an outstanding value-priced sés might still be enjoyed by some, traditionally the season calls for wines sparkling wine, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner offers 20 Cava re- with more percieved strength or festiveness. Winter is the perfect time for views, with prices starting at just $9. enjoying big reds, celebratory sparklers and decadent dessert wines. In this Last but not least, to complement the feature on page 106 (“Natural- issue’s Buying Guide, we’ve got you covered with all three. ly Sweet”), Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski and I take a look at the vins Our West Coast tasting team—Virginie Boone, Paul Gregutt, and Steve doux naturels of the Rhône Valley, Languedoc and Roussillon. Although Heimoff—all reviewed some amazing reds that are sure to keep you and they are often served as dessert wines, these lightly fortified selections can your loved ones happy. Gregutt tasted through the latest releases from easily provide pleasure as an apéritif, or possibly even enjoyed throughout Washington winemaker Charles Smith—both from his eponymous label an entire meal. as well as the K Vintners brand—with fantastic results, especially for the Elsewhere in this issue’s Buying Guide, you’ll find reviews from Aus- Royal City Syrah (98 points) and The Hidden Syrah (97 points). Heimoff tria, Argentina, Italy and Spain, as well as more American selections from rated nearly 100 Cabernet Sauvignons, including the newest releases from New York and Virginia. And as always, please be sure to visit buyingguide. Goldschmidt, Signorello and Stag’s Leap Wine Cellars, with 54 rated 90 winemag.com for all of our recent ratings and reviews. points or above and 10 designated as Editors’ Choices. Cheers! If you’re looking for something effervescent to ring in the New Year, Eu- —LAUREN BUZZEO texture. At its best now, it will pair nicely with lobsters, a good example of the popular style, at the upper tier. CHARDONNAY scallops or crabs. —S.H. —S.H. Marimar Estate 2010 Don Miguel abv: 14.5% Price: $46 abv: 14.5% Price: $64 94 Vineyard La Masía Chardonnay (Russian River Valley). For full review see page 5. Failla 2011 Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Falcone 2011 Chardonnay (Santa Maria abv: 14.2% Price: $35 92 This is firm in acidity, bracing in minerals and 91 Valley). This shows the im pressive acidity and bone dry. That makes it sound austere, but you’ll find spice flavor that this cool part of Santa Barbara County Knights Bridge 2010 Alder Springs Vine- delicious apricot, lime and citron flavors, enhanced by coaxes out of its wines. With a touch of new oak, it pro- 93 yard Chardonnay (Mendocino County). sweet oak. Drink now. —S.H. vides balanced flavors of pineapple, lime, green apple, For full review see page 6. abv: 13.8% Price: $34 buttered toast, vanilla, crème brûlée and honeysuckle. abv: 14.2% Price: $65 —S.H. Failla 2010 Keefer Ranch Chardonnay abv: 14.2% Price: $30 Krupp Brothers 2009 Chardonnay (Napa 92 (Russian River Valley). Young, vibrant and 93 Valley). Cabernet specialist Krupp turns to fresh, this wine’s crisp acidity frames pineapple and Gainey 2010 Chardonnay (Sta. Rita Hills). Chardonnay with excellent results. Some might say it’s tropical fruit flavors, with a slight hint of botrytis in the 91 For full review see page 9. Editors’ Choice. too ripe, hot and oaky in the California style. But it is a form of golden apricot and honey. There’s lots of evi- abv: 13.9% Price: $23 superior example of its genre. Rich and creamy, it bears dent oak, creating a buttered toast note, while its min- flavors of tangerine, tropical fruit, buttered toast and erality makes it complex. Vastly rich, if a little lacking in Ram’s Gate 2010 Ulises Valdez Diablo cinnamon spice. —S.H. subtlety . Drink now. —S.H. 91 Vineyards Chardonnay (Russian River abv: 15.1% Price: $50 abv: 14.1% Price: $42 Valley). This is clearly an elegant Chardonnay, well grown and made to impress. It’s rich, dry and creamy, Ram’s Gate 2010 Durell Vineyards Char- Moone-Tsai 2010 Charles Heintz Vine- with a good hit of acidity accompanying oak-influenced 93 donnay (Sonoma Coast). This exudes clas- 92 yard Chardonnay (Sonoma Coast). Ev- flavors of tropical fruit, pear and peach. —S.H. sic Chardonnay richness. Pure and heady, it explodes ery intervention available to the winemaker for creat- abv: 14.9% Price: $64 with tropical fruit and orange essences, with buttered ing richness has been applied here, including 75% new toast and vanilla flavors from oak barrels and lees con- French oak. California Chardonnay hardly gets more Freemark Abbey 2011 Chardonnay tact. Zesty Russian River acidity kicks in to provide per- extravagant in but tercream, smoky toast, lemon drop, 90 (Napa Valley). For full review see page 10. fect balance. The creaminess is delicious, sugges ting apple butter and pear flavors, brightened with crisp abv: 13.5% Price: $30 shellfish in a buttery sauce. —S.H. acidity. Grown in one of the coolest areas of the appel- abv: 14.4% Price: $74 lation, yet it’s so rich and full bodied, it almost has the Jordan 2010 Chardonnay (Russian Riv- body of a red wine. Don’t let it get too cold, and pay 90 er Valley). Easy to drink, this has enough Talley 2010 Rosemary’s Vineyard attention as it warms and evolves in the glass. —S.H. sophistication to pair with rich scallop, tuna and lobster 93 Chardonnay (Arroyo Grande Valley). abv: 13.8% Price: $65 dishes. It’s dry, although there’s a lot of sweetly ripe or- Another success for Talley from this vineyard, especially ange, apricot and buttercream flavors, as well as cara- given the challenges of the chilly vintage. It shows ripe Ram’s Gate 2010 Lee’s Secret Vineyard tropical fruit, spice and vanilla flavors, with a creamy 92 Chardonnay (Carneros). Extravagantly rich in tropical fruit, orange, honey and sweet oak flavors, this is balanced, with crisp acidity and a dry finish. It’s Continued on Page 15 2 | WINE ENTHUSIAST | BEST OF YEAR 2012 The Wine Enthusiast Buying Guide The Buying Guide includes ratings and reviews of new- release and selected older beverage alcohol products evaluated by Wine Enthusiast Magazine’s editors and other qualified tasters. Regular contributors to our Buying Guide include Tasting Director Lauren Buzzeo, Assistant Tasting Director Anna Lee C. Iijima, Executive Editor Susan Kostrzewa, Managing Editor Joe Czerwinski, Contributing Editor Michael Schachner and Spirits Editor Kara Newman in New York, European Editor Roger Voss in Bordeaux, Charles Smith 2009 Royal City Syrah Goldschmidt 2008 Single Vineyard Se- Italian Editor Monica Larner in Rome, California Editor (Washington). This beautifully reflects the lection Game Ranch Cabernet Sauvignon Steve Heimoff in Oakland, Contributing Editor Paul Gregutt 98 96 in Seattle and Contributing Editor Virginie Boone in Santa vintage as well as the place. There is astonishing density, (Oakville). This is rich and appealing, vast in flavor and Rosa. length and detail—as much as any Syrah in the country. luxurious in texture. It shows Oakville character in its If a wine was evaluated by a single reviewer, that taster’s The deep, compact and impossibly complex flavors mix smooth, velvety tannins and overall balance, with ripe initials appear following the note. When no initials appear notes of black fruit, cassis, licorice, coffee, baking spice, blackberry, currant and dark chocolate flavors. If you following a wine review, the wine was evaluated by two or more reviewers and the score and tasting note reflect smoke and Bourbon barrel. Cellar Selection. —P.G. can keep from drinking it now, it should hold in the cel- the input of all tasters. Unless otherwise stated, all Spirits abv: 15% Price: $140 lar for 10–15 years. —S.H. Reviews are by Kara Newman and all beer reviews are by abv: 14.9% Price: $75 Lauren Buzzeo. Each review contains a score, the full name of the product, its suggested national retail price, its abv as reported to us by the submitter and a tasting note. If price or alcohol content cannot be confirmed, NA (not available) will be printed. Prices are for 750-ml bottles unless otherwise indicated. TASTING METHODOLOGY AND GOALS All tastings reported in the Buying Guide are performed blind unless otherwise noted. Typically, products are tasted in peer-group flights of from 5–8 samples. Price is not a factor in assigning scores. When possible, products considered flawed or uncustomary are retasted. ABOUT THE SCORES Schramsberg 2004 Reserve (Napa- Ratings reflect what our editors felt about a particular product. Beyond the rating, we encourage you to read the accompanying 98 Mendocino -Sonoma-Marin). The opulence Joseph Phelps 2009 Insignia Estate tasting note to learn about a product’s special characteristics. of this sparkling wine has to be tasted to be believed.