In Mexico Range from Ham- Range Accommodations in Mexico Every Imaginable of Mocks and Huts to Hotels

THUMB DIRECTORY TAB 959 cuarto cama matri- cama © Lonely Planet Publications Planet Lonely © in this same price range. in this same (literally, single room) to mean a room (literally, (double bed); sometimes one person (double bed); sometimes one person cabañas In this book we use ‘single’ (abbreviated In this book we use ‘single’ (abbreviated Top-end hotels run from the classier hotels run from the classier hotels Top-end hotels in this book, except Room prices given Midrange accommodations are chiefly hotels, chiefly accommodations are Midrange to ‘s’) to mean a room for one person, and to ‘s’) to mean a room for one person, ‘double’ (‘d’) to mean a room for two people. sometimes use the phrase Mexicans sencillo be a may with one bed, which from city to city, and sometimes between dif- in the same city, but in most of hotels ferent high season typically means SemanaMexico EasterSanta and a couple of (the week before July and August, and the it), most of days after about period of holiday Christmas–New Year two weeks. Outside the high seasons, many and top-end establishments in tour- midrange ist destinations cut their room prices by 10% more accommodations are to 40%. Budget Through all year. the same to keep rates likely deviations from the major this book we note normal seasonal in many places on pattern; example, high coast, for season the Pacific runs from December right through to Easter. rates special deals, low weekend We also note cut costs. and other ways you can monial hotels have swimming pools, restaurants, in- swimming pools, restaurants, have hotels and other facilities. Many agencies house travel memorable the country’s most appealing and of – small or in this price bracket lodgings are well-designed and cared medium-sized hotels, and personal for, with a friendly atmosphere from staff.attention In some places you’ll also comfort- and more find apartments, bungalows able and hotels coastal resort in the cities to deluxe to luxurious smaller establishments catering for comfort and beautiful with a taste travelers for it. design, and the funds to pay the high season of prices. The exact dates vary a private bathroom containing bathroom shower, hot a private book, rooms are (In this WC and washbasin. bathroom unless private have assumed to otherwise stated.) according ranging in comfort and atmosphere even Mexico of to price, though in some areas decorated attractively you a cozy, M$400 can get Some midrange hotel. room in a friendly small where stated otherwise, are high-season stated otherwise, are where

cabañas,

Courses 966 Courses Accommodations 959 Accommodations Activities962 Business Hours 965 Children ChartsClimate 966 Customs Dangers & Annoyances Discount Cards Embassies & Consulates & Events Festivals 971 Food 965 Travelers Gay & Lesbian 971 Holidays 966 968 972 Insurance Access Internet 969 Matters Legal Maps 973 969 Money 973 970 971 Post 975 Shopping 975 Solo Travelers 976 Telephone 978 Time Toilets 978 972 Tourist Information 972 With Disabilities Travelers 979 Visas 980 Volunteering Women Travelers Work 982 976 979 978 981

Budget accommodations include camping Budget

ACCOMMODATIONS ACCOMMODATIONS but generally clean. Hotel rooms usually have rooms usually have clean. Hotel but generally ical hotels. Recommended accommodations ical hotels. will be simple and without frills in this range grounds, hammocks, palm-thatched grounds, hammocks, palm-thatched guesthouses hostels, and econom- backpacker midrange (M$400 to M$1000) and top end midrange (above M$1000). three price ranges: budget (where a typical (where budget price ranges: three room for two people costs under M$400), standard upwards to super-luxury resorts. resorts. standard upwards to super-luxury This book divides accommodations into Accommodations in Mexico range from ham- range Accommodations in Mexico every imaginable of mocks and huts to hotels

CONTENTS Directory DIRECTORY air-conditioning. offerstablishment atleast someroomswith of charge). Agrowingnumber of accommo- mayornotbefree (thisservice to use has internet-connected computers forguests best to reserve aroominadvanceorgoearly best toreserve ae nonsmoking. are cates all, that somerooms,butnotnecessarily traveling withtheir own machines. dations alsoprovide wi-fi accessforthose net icon( policy. establishment’s with orwithoutthetaxes, accordingtothe you are mostlikely tobecharged ateach place, included?’). Pricesgiven inthisbookare those ask, ‘ or 18%tothefigure. Whenindoubt,youcan plus taxes), you mustadd17% inwhich case given ‘M$1500 as,say, prices. Intop-endhotels apricemayoften be IVAthough, andISHare includedinquoted accordingly (ienotincludingtaxes). Generally, require areceipt, andtheyquote roomrates ablishments onlycharge taxes ifyou these state). Many budget andsomemidrange est- 2%or3%dependingonthe(lodging tax; taxes: IVA 15%)andISH (value-addedtax; always endupwitha room somewhere. butdon’tworry,you’ll to take reservations, Afew places areusually sufficient. reluctant whattimeyou’llarrive,in theday,saying is is notbooked out,asimplephonecallearlier trybytelephone –iftheplace email. Otherwise theirwebsites through orby reservations in thedaytosecure aroom.Many placestake camas matrimoniales a roomwithtwobeds,which maybothbe than twopeople. A can occupysuch aroomforlowerprice 960 Similarly, thenonsmoking icon( Accommodation pricesare subjecttotwo In populardestinationsatbusytimes,it’s The air-con icon ( In ouraccommodationslistingstheinter- Best ofall,youcanbookonline. Reviews are thoroughandindependent. insider lowdownonthebestplacestostay. lonelyplanet.com/hotels. You’llfindthetrue, at service check outtheonlinebooking commendations byLonelyPlanetauthors, For more accommodationreviews andre- BOOK YOURSTAY ONLINE ¿están incluidos los impuestos? IETR • Acmoain ••Accommodations DIRECTORY i ) means that the establishment ) meansthattheestablishment cuarto doble cuarto a . más impuestos ) meansthatthees- often means ’ (‘are taxes n ’ (M$1500 ’ (M$1500 ) indi- for simple ably rustic,close-to-nature ambience. Prices they’llusuallystillhave– though anagree- air-construng deckandeven andkitchen private bathroom,fans,décor,hammock- mosquitonets,largetric light, comfybeds, some the padlockfordoor. Attheotherextreme, and nothinginsidebutabed,youprovide thatched roof. Themostbasichave dirtfloors adobe, stoneorothermaterials) withapalm- Cabañas Bungalows, Cabañas&Villas owners. the offering friendly,personal attention from oftenguesthouses, beautifullydesigned and midrangesmall, comfortable, ortop-end found intouristdestinations,are usually Mexico’s growingnumberof B&Bs,mostly B&Bs good sourcesof information on these. The internet, are localadsandtouristoffices cially ifyou’re more staying thanafew days. be goodvalueforthree orfourpeople,espe- very andattractive comfortable andtheycan ments withfullyequippedkitchens. Someare In manyresort areas youcanfindtouristapart- to M$40 per person. pitch atent ontheirpatch foraroundM$25 in beach spotsorcountry areas will letyou Quite alotof restaurants andguesthouses people withavehicle, using fullfacilities. a tent fortwo,andM$250toM$300two M$100and M$200topitchto paybetween are very basic,others quite luxurious.Expect They’re mostcommonalongthecoasts.Some but are opentotent campers atlowerrates. hicles, campervans)andtrailers (caravans), upforRVstrailer parksset (recreational ve- Most organized campgroundsare actually Camping &TrailerParks fortable and upmarket. contexts, tend more tobe even sturdy,com- ingardensorgrounds.Villas,hotel units set hotel. Bungalowsare typicallyfree- standing erally formingpartof amidrange ortop-end range M$1000. over whereCaribbean, someluxury M$200. Themostexpensive onesare onthe Apartments A bungalowisusuallysimilartoupper- cabañas cabañas are usuallyhuts(of wood,brick, cabañas are positively deluxe, withelec- but more sturdilybuiltandgen- runfromabout M$100 to lonelyplanet.com cabañas cost DIRECTORY 961 Mexico has plenty of top-end hotels too, too, top-end hotels has plenty of Mexico Every Mexican town also has its cheap ho- town also has its cheap Mexican Every Fortunately for families and small groups of for families and small groups of Fortunately some money, look for deals on hotel websites websites some money, look for deals on hotel or phone them up and ask how to obtain the best price. have price ranges in all many hotels travelers, people that cost four or five rooms for three, a double. than more not much you may not feel your belongings are safe. safe. your belongings are you may not feel hot shower rooms with a private Adequate for under M$300 per double in available are country. the most of towns and particularly in the coastal resort levels the expected offer cities. They largest restau- – with pools, gyms, bars, luxury of sometimes rants and so on – at prices that are modest (and sometimes not!). They agreeably haciendas or in style from converted range to expansive boutique hotels small, chic than not the often but more modern resorts, and the facilities is eye-catching architecture and service excellent. Prices at many such highly and if you flexible, establishments are to stay in luxury but also enjoy saving like hotels have a restaurant, bar and internet bar and internet a restaurant, have hotels a Quite including wi-fi). facilities (often swimming pools. Among the most lot have in both the midrange lodgings, charming old the many are and the top-end brackets, and mansions, inns, and even monasteries These hotels. turned into can be convents, with fountains wonderfully atmospheric, stone-pillared in flower-decked, gurgling gardens. These are courtyards or verdant probably the lodgings you will remember Modern hotels your trip. most fondly after designed around traditional patio- often are plans too. based ones, clean, friendly, secure are There tels. dark, dirty, smelly ones where are and there Hotels Hotels ho- midrange in good specializes Mexico a comfortable can get two people where tels, bathroom, and usually private room with M$1000. The for about M$400 to air-con, the within that price range, you pay more comfort, style and design facilities, more Mexican Many to have. likely the place is their and upgraded modernized have hotels adding aesthetics years, facilities in recent to their priorities, and additional comforts contem- combinations of in pleasing often and inter- Mexican porary and traditional, midrange Many nationally influenced taste.

(www (www actu- Ciaro Hostels hostal , whose flag- (www.hostelbook

Hostelworld HostelBookers is a small, independent is a small, independent DIRECTORY •• Accommodations and Hostelling International Mexico provide plentiful listings and offer listings and offer plentiful provide

Note that the Spanish word Note Fourteen hostels are members of Mexico’s Mexico’s of members are Fourteen hostels ally means ‘small hotel’ rather than ‘hostel’, than ‘hostel’, rather ally means ‘small hotel’ used for both types but is now increasingly of place. City and the southeast. City and for HI members at thesefor HI members places. (www.ciarogroup.com) in Mexico group with half a dozen hostels ship is Hostel Mundo Joven Catedral ( p166 ) p166 Catedral ( Mundo Joven ship is Hostel small discounts are City. There in Mexico HI affiliate, www.hihostels.com) .hostellingmexico.com, online reservations. .hostelworld.com) ers.com) if you want a party scene/decent sunbath- night’s sleep. ing area/good and word of mouth will often let you know mouth will often and word of town to head for is the best one in which design and charm. Standards of cleanliness cleanliness Standards of design and charm. and security do vary, but popular hostels travelers, places for meeting fellow great are offer extra enticements such as pools, bars, as pools, bars, extra enticements such offer access and even gardens, sundecks, internet and, in many cases, some economical pri- the best places rooms as well. Some of vate tween M$70 and M$150 per person, plus plus tween M$70 and M$150 per person, bathrooms, living space communal kitchens, out your entire Mexico trip. Hostels provide provide trip. Hostels Mexico out your entire dormitory accommodation for typically below reasonably well-trodden trails, it’s quite trails, it’s quite well-trodden low reasonably through-easy to stay in nothing but hostels There are now hostels suitable for budget suitable for budget now hostels are There and cities where in most towns travelers you fol- If congregates. traveler this kind of Hostels Hostels the states of Oaxaca and on the and Chiapas of the states Yucatán Peninsula. to buy hammocks in Mexico, especially in especially in to buy hammocks in Mexico, it can reach M$100 on the more expensive expensive M$100 on the more it can reach Caribbean coast. With your own hammock, bit. It’s easy enoughthe cost comes down a for M$30 or M$40 in some places, thoughfor M$30 or M$40 in repellent handy). You can rent one and a a one and You can rent handy). repellent roof it, usually under a palm place to hang restaurant, outside a small posada or beach half of the country. A hammock can be a very can be a very the country. A hammock half of place to comfortable, to mention cheap, not mosquito (keep sleephot, southern areas in hammocks too – available in many of the the of in many too – available hammocks the southern spots in beach low-key more Hammocks Hammocks – and often space find hammock You will lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY basic budget hotels totastefully designed, ue (p4 n Chiapas. in (p848 ) Nubes de Tzaráracua ( p580 ), nearUruapan,andLas ( Colade Caballo Cascada p410 ), oratCascada delaHuastecasuch ( astheCañón p410 ) and and funzip-lining atplacesaroundMonterrey las Cotorras( p810 ) andCoscomatepec ( p697 ), exciting rappellinginplaceslike theSimade Creel (see p349 ) andDurango( p380 ). There’s forthisadrenaline-chargingbases activityare jumps.Othergood canyoneers, withits27 cliff Matacanes (boxed text, p411 Canyoneering, Rappelling&Zip-lining) isheaven for www.gorp.com and www.mexonline.com. country, andthewebsites www.planeta.com, organizations andcompaniesaroundthe .com) Ecotourism; include Good sourcesonactive tourisminMexico of thedestinationsections thisbook. see tail, do andwhere youcandoit;formore de- ing isabriefintroductiontowhatyoucan a fast-growing fieldinMexico. Thefollow- ties alongMexico’s coasts.Active tourismis fun enjoyingmostimaginableaquaticactivi- Mexico’s areas, mostspectacular andhave ride horses andwatch wildlife insomeof You canhike, bike, kayak,raft, climb,canoe, with arelaxed, friendly atmosphere. guest lodgings,usuallyfamily-runandoften ahomeconvertedis aguesthouse, intosimple small, midrange places.A Posadas Posadas &CasasdeHuéspedes 962 ACTIVITIES

PRACTICALITIES

Mexico’sonlyEnglish-languagedailynewspaperis current andmostplugshaveElectrical is110V,60Hz, twoflatprongs,asintheUSandCanada. Ifbuying DVDs, lookforthenumbered globemotifindicatingwhichregions oftheworld Mostprerecorded therest videotapesandDVDson saleinMexico(like oftheAmericasand Mexicansusethemetricsystem for weights and measures. , based inMexico, based Citywith60member IETR • Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY Australia andNewZealand joinMexicoinRegion 4. it canbeplayedin.Region 1istheUSandCanada; Europe andJapanare inregion 2;and most ofWestern Europe andAustralia andtheSecamsystem usedinFrance. Japan) usetheNTSC imageregistration system, incompatiblewiththePAL system commonto guage nationalnewspapersinclude tion isvery patchyoutsideMexicoCity.The bestandmostindependent-minded Spanish-lan- Amtave

x are inns,meaninganythingfrom 55-5688-3883, 800-654-44-52;www.amtave (Mexican Association ofAdventure Travel& (Mexican

casa dehuéspedes Reforma andtheleft-wing

for all these places.Agoodbookis for allthese Pedro Mártir( p288 ). Guidesare available ParqueBaja California’s Nacional SierraSan del Cobre area (CopperCanyon) ( p341 ) and ( p723 ). YoucanalsoclimbintheBarranca ginners, have openedupnearOaxaca been climbing spots,someappropriate forbe- present finechallenges. Anumberof good Mexico’s ( andIztaccíhuatl highest, p231 ), canic belt,includingPicodeOrizaba ( p699 ), Peaksdeveloped. inMexico’s centralvol- of Potrero Chico( p411 ), with600routes technical climbers, especially thelimestone The Monterrey area isMexico’s meccafor Climbing routes, astrailmarking isgenerally incipient ( p308 ). Aguideisavery goodideaformany delaBiosfera SierradelaLaguna the Reserva ( Biosfera Calakmul p955 of), andthedeserts Gorda (boxed text, p651 dela ) andReserva El Cielo( p423 delaBiosfera Sierra ), Reserva delaBiosferaare theforests of theReserva of ( Iztaccíhuatl p231 ). Otherfinehikingareas There’s alsogoodhikingonthelowerslopes San Martín ( p704 ) andVolcánTacaná ( p860 ). Colima ( p555 Malinche), La ( p237 Volcán Paricutín ( ), Volcán p581 de ), VolcánNevado deToluca( climbing includeNevado p269 ), youcansummitwithouttechnicalMountains Pueblos Oaxaca’s popularanddeveloped.most spectacular, and Mancomunados ( p341) p747 Canyon; ) are amongthe delCobreTrails intheBarranca (Copper Hiking October to February. altitudeareConditions athigh bestfrom Volcanoes: AClimbingGuide The News

( www.thenews.com.mx La Jornada . lonelyplanet.com ). Distribu- by RJSecor. Mexico ’ s DIRECTORY

963 in Mexico. The in Mexico. (fisheries office) that s Guide to Mexican Whitewater s Guide to Mexican ’ descenso de ríos descenso oficina de pesca oficina A Gringo Veracruz state, where rivers fall dramati- rivers state, where Veracruz Elsewhere, there’s lake and reservoir lake fish- there’s Elsewhere, (limestone sinkholes) near Akumal ( p894 ) ) p894 (limestone sinkholes) ( near Akumal ) and at Gran Cenote p898 and Tulum ( extraordinary more few are ), and there p901 ( amid Mexico’s experiences than snorkeling northern deserts in the pellucid pools of Cuatro Ciénegas ( p389 ). two main centers are Tlapacoyan ( p675 ) and ) and p675 Tlapacoyan ( are two main centers ). You can also raft on some p684 ( Jalcomulco in the Lacandón Jungle in Chiapas (seerivers company with ). Always use a reliable p817 experienced guides. good equipment and SNORKELING & DIVING The Caribbean is world famous for its won- full and translucent waters derful coral reefs ), in- diving locations fish. Great tropical of p876 ( ), Isla Mujeres p887 ( clude Cozumel ) and the Banco p883 Playa del Carmen ( these ). Most of p906 coral atoll ( Chinchorro Inland, you can too. good for snorkeling are famed cenotes the Yucatán’s some of dive KAYAKING, CANOEING & RAFTING & RAFTING CANOEING KAYAKING, many coastal lagoons and sheltered Mexico’s and for kayaks waters magnificent bays make wildlife interesting often canoes, and there’s Rent to be seen you’ll reach. in the places ) and guided trips at prime sites equipment or take p303 ( La), Paz p297 as Mulegé ( such California;) in Baja Mazatlán p300 ) and Laguna ( Loreto p498 Barra), de Potosí ( p433 ( Manialtepec ) on the Gulf coast; and ( p762 ) p950 on Campeche ( the Pacific on the Caribbean coast at Bahías de Punta coast; Solimán ( p895 ), or Xcalak ( p907 ). Oriental to the cally from the Sierra Madre raft- coastal plain, is the place for white-water ing, called licenses per day/ M$130/250 (costing around in from boats fishing for required week) are usually on the ocean; charters estuaries and but you’ll needinclude them, own if you your Most towns you out. to take a local fisher hire an have issues licenses. lagoon, river good some very ing inland, and and sea fishing along the Gulf and Caribbean ) in the p420 ( flock to La Pesca coasts. Fans ) and Xcalak p904 northeast, and Punta Allen ( ( p907 ) in the southeast. detailsby Tom Robey 56 kayak, canoe and rivers. raft runs on 37 different DIRECTORY •• Activities

July and from October to December. Fishing to December. July and from October Escondido ( p756 ) and Puerto Ángel ( p766 ). In p766 ( ) and Puerto Ángel p756 Escondido ( occur from April to catches the biggest general Barra de Navidad ( p472 ), Manzanillo ( p476 ), p476 ( ), Manzanillo p472 ( Barra de Navidad ), Puerto p509 ), Acapulco ( p493 Zihuatanejo ( Mazatlán Mazatlán ( p433 ), Puerto Vallarta ( p456 ), charters are available in all of the major Pacific Pacific the major in all of available are charters them now practicing catch- many of resorts, The prime locations for billfish. and-release include Ensenada ( p286 ), San Carlos ( p332 ), for marlin, swordfish, sailfishfor marlin, swordfish, and tuna along coast and Sea Deep-sea Cortez. of the Pacific FISHING FISHING famous for its sportfishing is justly Mexico eye over the equipment before taking off. the equipment before eye over widespread resort activities. Always cast an activities. resort widespread diving along the Caribbean but also coast, Waterskiing, some fine spots on the Pacific. parasailing, and ‘banana’ riding are jet skiing Most coastal resorts rent snorkel gear and can gear snorkel rent Most coastal resorts great There’s trips. boat and fishing arrange on cycling in Mexico. on cycling Water Sports Casas ( p824 ), and many places on the flat ), and many places on the flat p824 Casas ( for some tips p990 See Yucatán Peninsula. Coscomatepec Coscomatepec ( p697 ), Oaxaca ), around San Cristóbal de Las ( p723 ), p457 Puerto ( Vallarta the mountains around Monterrey ( p409 ), the p409 ( the mountains around Monterrey ), p341 (Copper Canyon; Barranca del Cobre guided trips of up to several as days in places guided trips of California,) in Baja p300 ( as Loreto diverse nificent country await pedalers. You’ll find pedalers. nificent country await or for for rent available mountain bikes Mountain Biking Mountain Biking trails through tracks and Countless mag- Potosí ( p498 ), Zihuatanejo ( p491 ), Pie de la Mazatlán p491 ( p433 ), ), Zihuatanejo ( Sayulita p498 p451 ), ( Potosí ( ) and Barra p756 ( ), Puerto Escondido de p499 Cuesta ( resorts. Pacific many other Catorce ( p610 ) and Teotitlán del Valle ( p741 ). p741 ( del Valle and Teotitlán ) p610 Catorce ( at the beaches along And you can canter p341 ), Sinaloa’s Tufted Jay Preserve (boxed Preserve (boxed Jay ), Sinaloa’s Tufted ), Real de p341 p456 ( ), Puerto Vallarta p441 text, the Barranca del Cobre (Copper Canyon; the Barranca del Cobre Horseback Riding Riding Horseback excellent popular among visitors, more Ever including at many places, riding is available place to place, but conditions at highplace to place, altitude to February. from October usually best are and walking alone across remote territory can territory across remote alone and walking The best seasonsbe risky. from for hiking vary lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY up to date. de Matanchén ( p444 ), nearSanBlas;and p311 ); the‘world’s longest wave’ onBahía (see Azul (Zipper’s)inBaja California Costa the very bestare thesummerbreaks at The Pacific coasthasawesomesurf.Among p889. on tips onresponsible theboxed diving, see text are particularlyfragileenvironments.For (www.fmas.org.mx) ognized Mexican divingorganization NAUI dive shopiscertifiedby after just a few hours’ tuition.Make sure the ware of dive certification shopsthatpromise make sure And be- thatit’suptostandard. Pulmo ( p307 San ) andCabo Lucas ( p312 PazLa ( ). p303 Ventana), La ( keling are bases Mulegé( p297 p307 ), Loreto ( p300 ), Cabo ), places too, and elsewhere. ( p779 ). There’s topsnorkeling atmostof these Escondido ( p756 deHuatulco ) orBahías Manzanillo ( p475 ( ), Zihuatanejo p491 ), Puerto at SanBlas( p445 ), PuertoVallarta ( p456 ), 964 SURFING, WINDSURFING& KITEBOARDING Coral reefs andothermarineecosystems When renting divingequipment,tryto On thePacific coast,straponyourtanks Baja California’s topdivingand/orsnor-Baja California’s ing pointstoensure asafe andenjoyableexperience: trip,carefully orsnorkeling considerthefollow- onascuba-diving,skin-diving Before embarking GUIDELINESFORDIVING SAFETY

Obtainreliable informationaboutphysicalandenvironmentalconditionsatthedive site froma Avoid divinglessthan18hoursbefore ahigh-altitudeflight. Knowthelocationsofnearest decompression chambersandtheemergency telephone Beaware thatunderwater conditionsvarysignificantlyfromoneregion (oreven site) to Dive ofacompe- onlyatsites withinyourlevel ofexperience;ifavailable,engagetheservices Beaware oflocallaws,regulations andetiquette aboutmarinelife andtheenvironment. Ifyoudon’thave yourownequipment,asktoseethedive shop’sbefore youcommit.And Besure youare diving. healthyandfeel comfortable cardfromarecognized Possessacurrent diving-certification agency scuba-divinginstruction (www.naui.com) IETR • Atvte ••Activities DIRECTORY numbers. influence thewaydivers dress foradive andwhatdivingtechniques theyuse. another. Seasonalchangescansignificantlyalter anysite ordive conditions. These differences tent, professionally traineddive ordive instructor master. suremake withyourdive youfeel after master: comfortable all,it’syourlife. (if scubadiving). reputable localdive operation,andaskhowlocaltraineddivers dealwiththeseconsiderations. , andthatitsaccreditation is ortheinternationally rec- PADI PADI (www.padi.com) FMAS , Playa Revolcadero ( Playa Revolcadero de Acapulco’s p508 delaCruz ) andBarra (p485), Barra Troncones (p480), (p482), Nexpa Pascuales de Boca (p315), ( p475), Santos Todos Mazatlán ( p432 ( ), Sayulita (p284), p451 ), Manzanillo Ensenada Escondido ( p753 ). Otherfinespotsinclude you can see you cansee and where. time –see p114 foranintroductiontowhat an increasingly popularand practicablepas- Mexico’s variedand exoticfaunais Observing Wildlife- &Bird-Watching too. good be can ( p475) south, PuertoVallarta ( p456 ) andManzanillo which isalsogoodforkiteboarding. Further Ventana windsblowatLa the same ( p307 ), toMarch) (September windsurfing capital and times of year. them atalltosomedestinationsor way) tocarrysurfboards,andsomewon’t most of themcharge US$50ormore (each your ownboard,check withthe airlinefirst: spots. Ifyou’re planningtoflyMexico with can rent in many surfboardsandtake classes June, JulyandAugustthebiggest months. You is really May toOctoberorNovember, with ceive somesortof surfallyear,butwave season ( p783 )…for starters. Mostbeach breaks re- the barreling ‘Mexican Pipeline’ atPuerto Los Barriles ( Los Barriles p307 ) isBaja California’s lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY has 965 Travel with Children with Travel It’s usually not hard to find a babysitter if It’s usually not hard to find a babysitter with ex- hotels, The most family-oriented Contact a Mexican consulate to find out consulate Contact a Mexican Lonely Planet’s Lonely Planet’s avoid sunburn. Ensure you replace fluids if a fluids you replace Ensure sunburn. avoid ). p1004 (see diarrhea gets child normally pay 67%. Children under 13 pay half normally pay 67%. Children long-distance buses, price on many Mexican small enough to sit on your lap, and if they’re for free. they will usually go rental car with a child safety seat, the major seat, safety car with a child the major rental most reliable the firms are rental international to pay a few have You will probably providers. per day. pesos extra their own – ask at want to go out on parents widely avail- (nappies) are Diapers your hotel. able, but if you depend on some particular food or medicine, bring lotion, baby cream, with you. it pools and grounds and facilities like pansive to be found on the coasts. playgrounds, tend (mostly top-end or upper mid- hotels A few accommodation for one or free offer range) a room share 12 if they two kids under about On flights to and within with their parents. travel under two generally children Mexico, as long as they do the adult fare, for 10% of not occupy a seat, and those two to 11 aged to make the international journey. Airlines journey. Airlines the international to make to board passen- may refuse flying to Mexico divorced par- without it. In the case of gers If may be required. ents, a custody document dead, or the traveler are one or both parents a death certificate has only one legal parent, the situation may or notarized of statement be required. forms for Required what you need to do. from these available usually purposes are these authorities. Practicalities for res- rooms and high chairs Cots for hotel mainly in midrange available taurants are and top-end establishments. If you want a lots of practical advice on the subject, drawn on the subject, drawn practical advice lots of experience. from firsthand for Under-18 Travelers Documents aimed at pre- To conform with regulations mi- abduction, child international venting to Mexico (people under 18) traveling nors may parents their without one or both of need to carry a notarized consentform or parents, signed by the absentparent traveler for the young giving permission (money- icon. c Casas de cambio (blondie). With a tiny hand- DIRECTORY •• Business Hours ‘güero’

Typical restaurant hours are 7am (9am in 7am (9am in are hours Typical restaurant

The sights, sounds and colors of Mexico Mexico of The sights, sounds and colors It’s worth remembering that supermarkets that supermarkets It’s worth remembering Post offices typically open from 8am Post offices typically open from 8am In this book we spell out opening hours Banks are normally open 9am to 5pm normally open 9am to 5pm Banks are Offices have similar Monday to Friday to Friday similar Monday Offices have ful of exceptions, children are welcome at all are exceptions, children ful of acclimatize and you should take extra care to extra care take acclimatize and you should terns and strange food. They need time to and strange terns make friends. Try to give them time to get them time to get friends. Try to give make doing back what they like on with some of easily affected also more are Children home. sleeping pat- than adults by heat, disrupted kids like traveling all the time; they’re happier all the time; they’re traveling kids like if they can settle into a place for a while and excite and stimulate most children, but few but few most children, and stimulate excite kinds of hotels and in virtually every café and hotels kinds of In this book you’ll find especially restaurant. and places to stay attractions child-friendly the and eat identified with jet black Mexicans love children, and will affection- and will children, love Mexicans whose call any child is less than hair ately CHILDREN CHILDREN or 10am to 10pm every day, and stores in in or 10am to 10pm every day, and stores open on towns often malls and coastal resort Sunday too. and department stores usually open from 9am and department stores where they differ from those above. where 1pm Saturday. coastal resorts. to 7pm daily, often with even longer hours in hours with even longer to 7pm daily, often Monday to Friday, and 9am to 1am Saturday. Monday to Friday, and 9am closeIn smaller towns they may earlier or not open on Saturday. exchange offices) are usually open from 9am offices)are exchange has a closing day, it’s usually Sunday, Monday has a closing day, it’s usually or Tuesday. Cafés from 8am typically open 10pm daily. to central Mexico) to midnight. If a restaurant to midnight. If a restaurant central Mexico) car-rental offices, usually open on Saturday usually open on Saturday offices, car-rental to 1pm. too, from at least 9am the 2pm to 4pm lunch break. Offices with break. the 2pm to 4pm lunch airline and business, including tourist-related hours to stores, with a greater likelihood of of likelihood with a greater to stores, hours then stay open on open till 9pm. Some don’t Saturday afternoon. Monday to Saturday. In the south of the the of Saturday. In the south Monday to stores in small towns, some country and close for a siesta between and 4pm, 2pm BUSINESS HOURS HOURS BUSINESS to 8pm, from 9am open typically are Stores lonelyplanet.com to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to to 6pm Monday to Friday, and 9am to DIRECTORY food can alsolearnfrom expertshowto capi- cooking-school boxed (see tal text, Mexico’s p726 is ). Fans of Mexican Oaxaca Cooking .lonelyplanet.com) ties inMexico onthe these. about aMexican contact a studentvisa; consulate For long-term studyinMexico you’llneed lege backhome. courses you may betaking leges often offer tuitiontocomplementcol- ever more popular. outside Mexico, are cookingclasses becoming Mexican foodgainagrowingarmyof fans the Spanishlanguage, andastheflavors of The countryspecializesinshort courses in well asstudythelanguage, culture orcuisine. people andget aninsideangleonlocallife as Taking inMexico classes isagreat waytomeet totravel,the bestseasons p31. see months acrossmostof Mexico. Fortipson June toOctober are thehottest andwettest CLIMATE CHARTS a touch of adventure. ( deXtacumbilxunaan Grutas p955 ), provide Bocas ( p881 ), LoltúnCaverns ( p931 ) andthe caves, such asBocadelPuma( p881 ), Siete and snorkeling, someof thecenotes and Yucatán Peninsula, awayfromthebeaches and exploringtunnels(few aren’t). Onthe cal sites ifthey’re intoclimbingpyramids or horses. Kidswillenjoysomearchaeologi- watching wildlife, kayakingorridingbicycles don’t have tobevery oldtoenjoysnorkeling, ing fastallover Mexico (see p962 ), andkids (p509). Acapulco and (p433) Mazatlán resortsin coastal ( such asCancún p867 ), Veta,La p792 , andYumká, p797 p403 Parque-Museo (see ) andVillahermosa ) –and Mexico City( p164 ), Monterrey (boxed text, cluster inandaroundthecities–such asin attractionstend to other funactivities.These venture and parkswithzip-lines,abseiling parksandad- parks, zoos,aquariums,safari parks,waterattractions such asamusement and swimmingpools,you’llfindspecialkids’ In someplaces,apartfromtheobviousbeaches Sights &Activities 966 COURSES You’ll findhelpfullinksonstudypossibili- In addition,Mexican universities andcol- Outdoor activityopportunitiesare grow- IETR • CiaeCat ••ClimateCharts DIRECTORY . Lonely Planet

website (www

and mealsincluded,canrange fromaround available. also languages andin-depthstudiesof Mexico are tive courses inart,crafts,dance,indigenous a growingnumberof schools, extraoralterna- guage skillsasmuch astheformaltuition.In as partof thedeal,which canhelpyourlan- offered accommodationswithalocalfamily day.Youmaybe thesame may beable tostart many placesyoucanenrollonthespotand for anyperiodfromafew hours toayear. In universities. to Many schools are private; someare affiliated formore citysections details). Xalapa (see Miguel deAllende,Taxco, Veracruz and San Casas, SanCristóbaldeLas Querétaro, PuertoEscondido,Vallarta,Carmen, Mexico City,Monterrey, Pátzcuaro,Playadel Paz,Guanajuato, La Mérida,Morelia, Oaxaca, among themCuernavaca, Guadalajara, cities are hometoSpanishlanguage schools, Many of Mexico’s mostattractive andexciting Language (p704). Yambigapan ( p234 ), PuertoVallarta ( p457 little ) andeven Sacristía, Restaurant (see p224 ), Tlaxcala ing schools inMonterrey ( p404 ), Puebla prepare deliciousdishes atexcellentcook- form (which listsduty-free allowances), and Mexico istocomplete acustoms declaration (adults only);and 400 cigarettes (adults). 3L of wineand 3Lof otheralcoholic drinks ofscription inthecase psychotropic drugs; rods; medicineforpersonal withpre- use, musical instrument;onetent; fourfishing three surfboardsorwindsurfing boards;one musicplayer; CD orDVDplayerdigital radio/ computer; aportable phones; aportable such as:clothing;twocameras;mobileuse Mexico duty-free includeitems forpersonal Things thatvisitors are allowedtobringinto CUSTOMS (www.ciee.org) the .nrcsa.com) forStudyAbroad Center National Registration the studyis. city ortown,theschool andhowintensive M$2000 toover M$5000dependingonthe

Costs per week, withaccommodationsCosts perweek, Depending ontheschool, youcanstudy The normalroutine whenyouenter Useful informationisavailable fromthe Council on International EducationalExchange Council onInternational , AmeriSpan AmeriSpan . (www.amerispan.com) lonelyplanet.com and (www

DIRECTORY mm mm mm mm mm 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 967 Average Average Average Average Average Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall 2276m (7467ft) JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 50 50 50 50 50 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 32 32 32 32 32 104 104 104 104 104 7m (23ft) 0 0 0 0 0 8 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 8 4 in in in in in 6m (20ft) 16 12 16 12 16 12 16 12 16 12 512m (1679ft) 1550m (5085ft) Temp Temp Temp Temp Temp JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 0 0 0 0 0 20 20 20 20 20 30 30 30 30 30 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 °C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F SAN CRISTÓBAL DE LAS CASAS SAN JOSÉ DEL CABO PUERTO VALLARTA MONTERREY MONTERREY OAXACA mm mm mm mm mm 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 400 300 200 100 0 Average Average Average Average Average Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Max/Min Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall Rainfall JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 32 50 50 50 50 50 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 86 68 32 32 32 32 104 104 104 104 104 0 0 0 0 0 4 8 4 8 4 4 8 8 4 8 in in in in in 16 12 16 12 16 12 16 12 16 12 DIRECTORY •• Climate Charts 1540m (5051ft) 2234m (7329ft) 1330m (4364ft) 1m (3ft) 22m (75ft) Temp Temp Temp Temp Temp JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND JFMAMJJASOND 0 0 0 0 0 20 20 20 20 20 30 30 30 30 30 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 10 40 °C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F °C °F MEXICO CITY MÉRIDA GUADALAJARA CHIHUAHUA CANCÚN CANCÚN lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY other large cities. of tourists–especially inMexico Cityand and anywhere frequented bylarge numbers airports, markets, packed streets andplazas, and subwaytrains, atbusstops,stations, bag-snatching are risksoncrowdedbuses ing valuables. Pocket-picking or andpurse- andarestandards considered likely tobecarry- theyarebecause generally wealthyby Mexican exist everywhere andtouristsare vulnerable likely tosteal anythingfromyou.Butthieves As arule,Mexicans are very honestandun- Theft &Robbery should beabletooffer advice. useful and toyourcountry’snearest consulate, which crime victim,report theincidenttopolice ground asyoutravel. Ifyoudobecomea your embassy( opposite ). Keep aneartothe If you’re already inMexico, youcancontact USA UK Canada Australia your country’sforeign department: affairs ful informationontravel toMexico consult not alwaysuptodate, butforavarietyof use- sound more alarmingthanitreally is,andis inMexicowith taxis City. happen. thefts on thebeach whileyouswim.Run-and-grab and don’tleave yourbelongingsunattended of undertowsandriptidesonanyoceanbeach, of bad publicity. trade–related violencethatbringssuch alot but touristsare rarely involved inthedrug and CiudadJuárez), have acrimeproblem, Tijuana Laredo, border (such asNuevo Monterrey placesalongtheUS andseveral problems. encountering precautions youcanminimizetheriskof safe placetotravel, andwithjustafew warnings,Mexicoofficial isgenerally a Despite often alarmingmediareports and DANGERS &ANNOYANCES searched. be tion. Ifared shows,yourbaggage will light shows agreen youpasswithoutinspec- light, then placeitinamachine. Ifthemachine 968 (www.fco.gov.uk) Official informationcanmake MexicoOfficial Enjoy yourself alongthecoasts,butbeware Some cities,such asMexico City,Acapulco, And everyone shouldbeextremelyAnd everyone careful (travel.state.gov) IETR • Dnes&Anyne ••Dangers&Annoyances DIRECTORY (www.voyage.gc.ca) (www.smartraveller.gov.au) threatening thanothers. Toreduce your of which situationsandplacesare more

take the right kindoftake theright cab (see p141 ). areas. And,inMexico City,make sure you insteadtaxis of walkinginpotentially dodgy andsimilarplaces.Usedestrian underpasses pe- empty metrocars andlittle-used atnight, other people. Thisincludesemptystreets and tourist resorts, donotgowhere there are few numbers. security large amountsof alcohol toextractcredit-card bers beatingvictims,orforcingthemtodrink money, fast.Butthere have of cases rob- been they willnotharmyou,justwantyour watch, ringsetc.Theymaybearmed.Usually may forceyoutoremove yourmoneybelt, with violence(do ing andmore resistance serious: maybemet picking andpurse-snatching, butmore alarm- of losingthemare greatly reduced. bles are underneathyourclothing,thechances The objective istodistractyou.Ifyourvalua- crush apocket willbepicked orabagslashed. thing asacrowdjostlesontobusandinthe pick yourpocket. Oronemay‘drop’some- and whileyou’re tryingtoget free anotherwill grab yourbagorcamera(orarmleg), markets oneortwoof orcitybuses: themmay their victimsinalready crowdedplaceslike rules: following chances of becomingavictim,sticktothe absolutely sure it’s safe. campinanylonelyspotunlessyouareNever Carry asmallamount ofCarry ready money– Leave mostof yourmoney,credit cards, andbealerttopeople Walkwithpurpose ing your pockets bulge with them,and If youhave to carryvaluables, avoid mak- foryourouting–inapocket.just enough and hidethemin different places. stashes room, dividethemintoseveral you have toleave money orcardsinyour in yourroom,orahostel locker. If that, leave yourvaluables inalocked bag keeping forguests’valuables.Failing items. Virtuallyallhotels provide safe- less youhave of immediate need these envelope inyourhotel’ssealed safe, un- passport, jewelry andairtickets ina around you. Isolated stretches of beach canalsoberisky. islesscommonthanpocket-Mugging Pickpockets often workinteams, crowding As youtravel, asense youwilldevelop To avoid beingrobbed incitiesandeven not resist). robbers These lonelyplanet.com DIRECTORY , 969 (Map (Map 81-8344-3200; 664-684-04-61; Auditorio) 55-5280-8039; 55-1101-2200;

Mexico City (www.sre.gob.mx) x x m x ( x ( Mexico City 624-142-43-33; Local 9, 998-883-33-60; Local 330, Tijuana x Monterrey x ( ( 669-913-73-20; Hotel Playa Maz- 744-484-13-05; Local 23, Centro (Map pp136-7 ; pp136-7 (Map 744-484-45-80; Despacho 205, 983-832-19-34; Av San Salvador 983-832-19-34; Av x (Map pp136-7 ; pp136-7 (Map 33-3671-4740; World Trade Center, ( Cancún 322-293-00-98; Edificio Obelisco Local x 998-884-34-23; Pecari 17, SM 20); 998-884-34-23; Pecari x x ( Auditorio); x ( ( ( x x 55-5520-1274; www.mfa.gov.bz; Bernardo 55-5520-1274; www.mfa.gov.bz; 55-5724-7900; www.canada.gc.ca; Schiller 55-5724-7900; www.canada.gc.ca; ( m ( Polanco) Mazatlán Mexico City San José del Cabo 999-944-42-15; Calle 1-D No 320, Colonia 951-513-37-77; Local 11B, Pino Suárez 700); Suárez 951-513-37-77; Local 11B, Pino Mexico City

x x Acapulco m

Acapulco Chetumal

x x

Cancún ( ( Guadalajara Polanco) A Hostelling International card will save card will save International A Hostelling Campestre); Campestre); Masaryk Presidente 554, Av www.embacuba.com.mx; Polanco; France Condominio NIKKO, La Costera 91, Fraccionamiento Canada Cuba which lists all Mexican diplomatic missions missions diplomatic lists all Mexican which in US than 30 consulates including the more and consulate embassy cities. Some Mexican useful information on visas and have websites similar matters. in Mexico Embassies & Consulates for embas- this list are City entries in Mexico sies or their consular sections; other entries often are Embassy websites consulates. are about Mexico. information useful sources of Australia Belize buses at museums and sites and archaeological educa- only for those usually with Mexican are but the ISIC, IYTC and ITICtion credentials, ISIC The you a reduction. get will sometimes also It may widely recognized. card is the most hostels. few in a you discounts get in Mexico. so in some hostels you M$10 or EMBASSIES & CONSULATES locating your near- trouble having you’re If look at or consulate, embassy est Mexican ministry, the foreign Mexico’s of the website Secretaría de Relaciones Exteriores Mérida www.mexico.embassy.gov.au; Rubén Darío 55, Polanco; Rubén Darío www.mexico.embassy.gov.au; m Comercial Marbella); pp136-7 ; 566, Fraccionamiento Flamboyanes); de Gálvez 215, Lomas de Chapultepec; 3er Piso, Plaza Caracol II, Blvd Kukulcán Km 8.5, Zona Hotel- 3er Piso, era); Otero 1249, Colonia Rinconada Av Pacífico, 8, Torre Piso del Bosque); atlán, Av Las Gaviotas 202, Zona Dorada); atlán, Av Local 108A, C1 Piso, Edificio Kalos,Local 108A, C1 Piso, Zaragoza 1300 Sur); Oaxaca 108, Av Francisco Medina Francisco Ascencio 1951, Zona Hotelera 108, Av Las Glorias); pp136-7 ; 529, Polanco; Puerto Vallarta Plaza José Green, Blvd Mijares);Plaza José Green, Condominio del Parque, Gedovius 10411-101, Zona Río) Gedovius 10411-101, Condominio del Parque, underneath underneath DIRECTORY •• Discount Cards

preferably keep them in a money belt, money belt, in a them keep preferably or pouch wallet shoulder your clothing. Mexico. They are both illegal. The easiest both illegal. The easiest They are Mexico. with connected problems way to avoid these nothing to do drugs is by having using or busted with them. If you get transporting illegal drugs, your consulate trouble. of you out will not be able to get tions, not those and to the street, open try to use daylight. them during Using on the street or booths stand-alone ATMs vulnerable to theft, and you more makes ). p974 (see also to card ‘cloning’ you an easier victim. you an easier drinks from strangers, especially in re- drinks from strangers, been have sort cities and on buses; there drugging followed by robbery cases of sexual assault. and assault, including visible in a parked vehicle. visible in a parked bags or cameras in open view any longer longer in open view any bags or cameras in counters At ticket to. than you have bus stations your bag and airports, keep feet. your between in prevalent are Cocaine and marijuana Use ATMs only in secure indoor loca- indoor only in secure ATMs Use makes – drunkenness on alcohol Go easy Be careful about accepting food or Be about accepting food or careful Don’t accept lifts from strangers. Don’t accept lifts from Do not leave anything valuable-looking anything valuable-looking Do not leave Don’t keep cash, credit cards, purses, cards, purses, cash, credit Don’t keep

travel agencies. Reduced prices on Mexican Reduced prices on Mexican agencies. travel can help you obtain reduced-price air tickets to air tickets can help you obtain reduced-price at student- and youth-oriented or from Mexico The ISIC student card, the IYTC card for trave- under 26, and the ITIC card for teachers lers DISCOUNT CARDS DISCOUNT CARDS Guerrero states and as far south as Huatulco states Guerrero and in Oaxaca, Hwy 199 between Palenque Ocosingo in Chiapas, and Hwy 175 between all been the Oaxaca have city and Pochutla, the years. highway over robberies scene of exist; 2nd-class buses do not. Hwy 200, along and coast through Michoacán the Pacific highways as much as possible. Deluxe and Deluxe highways as possible. as much buses1st-class use they toll highways, where sengers. The best ways to avoid highway rob- The best ways to avoid sengers. on toll by day and to travel to travel bery are night, taking luggage or valuables. Sometimes board as pas- robbed by people who buses are Bandits and up buses, occasionally hold cars at especially routes, on intercity other vehicles HIGHWAY ROBBERY ROBBERY HIGHWAY lonelyplanet.com

DIRECTORY m 2200; www.mexiko.diplo.de; Horacio1506,Los Morales; Zona Dorada); Mazatlán ( 884-18-98; Punta Conoco36,SM24); Guadalajara ( Planta Alta,Terminal Cancún); 2,Aeropuerto 626-12-52; 5A Nte 5) Lomas deChapultepec; 7520; [email protected];Av Explanada1025, Calle SurPte35); 11,ColoniaSanJosé); Ote Lomas Universidad,Zapopan); Av Vasco deQuiroga3000, Santa Fe) 9921; www.paisesbajos.com.mx; 7thfl,EdificioCalakmul, Jesús de Rojas20,ColoniaLosPinos,Jesús Zapopan); City Elíseos 339,Polanco; pp136-7; ( Domínguez1008Sur,ColoniaCentro); Belisario Británico, PargoBritánico, 24,SM3); UK Spain Morales; Level 4,JaimeBalmes8,Los [email protected]; New Netherlands Japan Italy Ireland Guatemala Germany Club Deportiva); Casa Tres Fuentes, ColoniaCostaAzul); 970 .esteri.it; Paseo.esteri.it; delasPalmas 1994,LomasdeChapultepec) pp126-7; (Map Nte 790,FraccionamientoLadróndeGuevara); Porfirio Díaz341, Porfirio Colonia Reforma) Polanco; 114, 5280-4383; www.mae.es/consulados/mexico; Galileo Juárez); 117, Sector Izquierdo,Torre Sterling,FranciscodeQuevedo Mezzanine Cenzontle, ZonaHotelera); cún City. Mexico -japan.go.jp; Paseo 395; delaReforma Lomas deChapultepec; irlanda.org.mx; Piso 3,CerradaBlvdÁvilaCamacho76, Km 13.5,ZonaHotelera); Mp pp132-3 ; (Map ( Alavez 5,SanFelipe delAgua) x x x x

( ( Cancún Polanco) x x 33-3673-2211; 2Piso, Av 5500,Colonia Vallarta 999-925-28-86; Calle33BNo528); 951-515-21-84; Planta Baja, 3a Privada deJLópez 951-515-21-84; PlantaBaja,3aPrivada 33-3810-2146; Calle7No319,ColoniaFerrocarril);

Cancún Zealand

IETR • Fsias&Eet ••Festivals &Events DIRECTORY (Map (Map pp132-3 ; Acapulco (Map (Map pp136-7 ; ( m 998-848-99-18; Edificio Oásis, cnr Blvd Kukulcán & 998-848-99-18; EdificioOásis,cnrBlvdKukulcán m 55-9171-9840; Lafontaine32,Polanco); x x ( (

Acapulco x x (

Polanco); Polanco) In City. Mexico Ciudad Hidalgo x 55-9171-9700; www.francia.org.mx; Campos 669-914-93-10; Av 212, PlayaGaviotas

x Mexico City x Cancún (Map (Map pp136-7 ; ( 998- 881-01-00; Royal Sands, Blvd Kukulcán 998- 881-01-00;RoyalSands, BlvdKukulcán 33-3616-1700; 1erPiso, Av LópezMateos Cancún x Mexico City 998-884-12-61; Alcatraces 39, SM22); 998-884-12-61; Alcatraces39,SM22); 55-5596-3655; www.ambcittadelmessic 55-5242-8500; www.britishembassy Mexico City ( m 744-484-88-15; LaCostera75); x ( x Oaxaca x ( m m x Guadalajara x Auditorio); Auditorio); (Map (Map pp136-7 ; 744-484-18-60; Alaminos26, Comitán Guadalajara Mazatlán 55-5211-0028; www.mx.emb ( 998-886-00-70; Martinair, 998-886-00-70; Martinair, Auditorio); Auditorio); Auditorio) In Auditorio) City. Mexico (Map (Map pp136-7 ; x 55-5520-5803; embajada@ 998-883-98-16; Colegio ( Mexico City x Mp pp136-7; (Map x 962-698-01-84; 9aCalle ( x 951-518-00-31; Calzada ( ( 55-5283-9460; x consulate inMexico x ( Guadalajara m x Tapachula 963-632-26-69; 1a Cancún Mexico City 33-3343-2296; ( 669-985-12-28; x x Sevilla) In Sevilla) 33-3630-0450; x Guadalajara Mexico City Mexico City x 55-5283- 55-5258- ( Mérida ( 55-5540- x Oaxaca

x (Map (Map 55- Can- 998-

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Tapachula 96,ColoniaHipódromo) 72); 57; HernándezMacías Vallarta); Nuevo 17,Paradise1, Interior Plaza,Paseo delosCocoteros1, 20); 407, Interior Ixtapa Américas); Oaxaca .gov; Paseo 305; delaReforma pp132-3; Calle 60No338K,btwnCalles29&31); 202,ZonaDorada); Gaviotas atlán Matamoros Guadalajara 1500, Fraccionamiento Aviación Tijuana) Álamos); ( rey Mexico’s are manyfiestas full-blooded, highly FESTIVALS &EVENTS Ciudad Juárez Km8.5,ZonaHotelera); Plaza CaracolDos,BlvdKukulcán Centro); ( LaCostera121,Local14); Emporio, USA during theweekorsobefore AshWednesday (whichfalls during preceding place the40-daypenanceofLent, Carnaval takes Carnaval Día delaCandelaría February/March some gettwoloads of presents! –although –ratherthanatChristmas ally receive gifts children tradition- January 6)ThisisthedaywhenMexican Magos Día delosReyes January the occasionforyet further partying. month(see just aboutevery opposite ), often tion). There’s alsoanationalpublicholiday formore destinationsections informa- on (see days,regionalsaints’ fairs, artsfestivals andso festivals listed here, each townhasmanylocal Mexican life. Inadditiontothemajor national days andprovide thechili intherecipe of whichcolorful affairs, often goonforseveral dancing in many towns. celebratedwithprocessions,bullfights and hisbirth; after inthetemple40 days memorates thepresentation ofJesus Usumacinta 26); surgentes); .gov.uk/mexico; RíoLerma 71,ColoniaCuauhtémoc; x x ( x (

631-313-81-50; SanJosés/n,FraccionamientoLos 624-143-35-66; Blvd Marina LocalC4,PlazaNautica, 624-143-35-66; BlvdMarina Acapulco ( x ( x x 81-8345-2120; Av Constitución411Pte); Cancún Nuevo Laredo x 669-916-58-89; Hotel Playa Mazatlán, Av669-916-58-89; HotelPlayaMazatlán, Las (lateFebruary Abigbash orearlyMarch) ( Hermosillo 755-553-21-00; Hotel Fontán, Blvd Ixtapa); 755-553-21-00; HotelFontán,BlvdIxtapa); ( consulate inMexicoCity x 951-514-30-54; PlazaSantoDomingo,Alcalá x ( ( 55-5080-2000; www.usembassy-mexico x x ( 868-812-44-02; Calle1No2002); Tijuana 33-3268-2100; Progreso 175,Colonia x San MigueldeAllende Puerto Vallarta 656-611-30-00; López Mateos 924Nte); 656-611-30-00; LópezMateos 744-469-05-56; HotelContinental ( 998-883-02-72; 2oNivelNo320-323, ( x ( x (Candlemas;February 2)Com- x 662-289-35-00; Monterrey 141); Tijuana (Three Kings’ DayorEpiphany; Kings’ (Three 867-714-05-12; Allende3330); 664-686-53-20; BlvdSalinas Mérida ( m x ( ( x x ( Cabo SanLucas Insurgentes); x 322-222-00-69; Local ( 55-5242-8500; Río lonelyplanet.com x 664-622-74-00; Mexico City 999-942-57-00; 415-152-23- Monter- Nogales

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975 retablos stores in cities will give will give in cities stores ). Following are some other ). Following are exvotos in the villages where they are they are where in the villages Usually made of cotton or nylon, hammocks Artesanías Handmade baskets of multifarious shapes, Commercially produced clothing, whether Come in all shapes and sizes, many incorporating See p88 for an introduction to many for an introduction to many p88 See For everyday purchases and consumer For everyday purchases and consumer indigenous designs. Those made by the Huichol people are Those made by the Huichol people are indigenous designs. and original. among the most authentic based on traditional designs or with a Mexican take on can be attractiveinternational fashion trends, and good value, including surfwear made by Mexican brands such as Squalo. sizes and patterns, made of materials like cane, bamboo, wicker, or rush or palm-leaf strips, common in Mexican are markets. carrying other purchases They can be useful for in themselves. home as well as being appealing Hammocks and markets with more character. more with and markets handicrafts: ceramics, masks, wood- Mexican in- work, jewelry, metalwork, lacquerware, bark paintings and textiles, digenous (also called good buys. fine products and Bags Baskets Clothes special markets devoted to crafts, but ordinary special markets always selldaily or weekly crafts too markets as well day pots and baskets (including every artistic products). The quality and as more goods may be lower than in market price of in markets, is expected Bargaining stores. prices. fixed have generally stores whereas you a gives making villages to craft- Traveling to seechance artisans at work, and if you buy your money of you’ll know that more there to the artisans to go and themselves is likely to entrepreneurs. less in to shop like goods, middle-class Mexicans hyper- glitzy suburban malls, supermarkets, In city centers stores. and department markets find smaller, older shops to likely more you’re SHOPPING SHOPPING and wonderful the star buys are Mexico’s handicrafts made regional amazingly varied predominantly the country, of in all parts these You can buy people. by indigenous artesanías in urban and markets in stores produced, or centers. and what’s available overviewyou a good of as Places such a basis for price comparisons. San Monterrey, City, Guadalajara, Mexico Puebla Vallarta, Miguel de Allende, Puerto selling quality handi- stores and Oaxaca have cities have A few Mexico. crafts from all over come in a variety of sizes and an infinite number of color Acapulco, patterns – easy to buy in Mérida, Palenque, and Juchitán. Puerto Escondido, Zipolite, Mitla

. are typi- are Certificado Federal Express Federal

or Mexico’s or Mexico’s , DIRECTORY •• Post (oficinas de correos) (oficinas (mail list), as follows: (mail list), 800-903-35-00; www.estafeta.com) x mail for 10 days before returning it returning mail for 10 days before ( 800-902-92-00; www.ups.com) lista

x 800-900-11-00; www.fedex.com) (

Dolores ABRAM (last name in capitals) Dolores Lista de Correos CentralCorreo Acapulco 00000 (post code) Guerrero MEXICO Post offices

If you’re sending a package internationally sending internationally a package If you’re x to the US or Canada, or M$450 to Europe. to the US or Canada, or M$450 Packages up to 500g cost up to about M$350 up to 500g cost up to about Packages sive international courier services, international sive as such UPS ( it until you get there. For assured and speedy For assured there. it until you get expen- more the you can use one of delivery, toms inspection at the post office; it’s better toms inspection at the post office; it’s better not seal with you, or packing materials to take from Mexico, be prepared to open it for cus- be prepared from Mexico, to a month, though no list of what has been what to a month, though no list of up. posted is received it sent to Poste Restante, instead of Lista de of it sent instead Restante, to Poste Restante may hold mail for up Poste Correos. to the sender. If you think you might pick mail to the sender. have it has arrived, than 10 days after up more present your passport or other identification. present but many post offices only no charge, There’s hold betical list that is updated daily and often daily and often betical list that is updated pinned up on the wall. To claim your mail, When the letter reaches the post office, the post the reaches When the letter the addressee alpha- is placed on an name of receive letters and packages care of a post a post of care and packages letters receive post office’s to the addressed office if they’re de correos lista cally open from 8am to 6pm Monday to to 6pm Monday to cally open from 8am Saturday. You can Friday, and 9am to 1pm letter from Mexico to the US or Canada to the (or from Mexico letter between somewhere should take vice-versa) to or from Mail four and 14 days to arrive. two weeks. between and one Europe takes airmail items ‘Vía Aérea.’ Delivery times (out- Delivery ‘Vía Aérea.’ airmail items An airmail variable. bound and inbound) are (registered) service (registered) Mark costs an extra M$20. to Europe or South America, and M$14.50 to South America, and M$14.50 to Europe or between Items the world. 20g and of the rest M$23. 50g cost M$18, M$21 and POST POST weighing or postcard up to airmail letter An to the US or Canada,20g costs M$10.50 M$13 the going rate if you accept the first price price first accept the if you rate the going of with drivers bargain can also You quoted. unmetered taxis. lonelyplanet.com Estafeta DIRECTORY common waystomake calls in Mexico. Followingare themost like forthisservice. can beexpensive ashotels charge whatthey fromyourhotel be. cards theyneedn’t Calling expensive, butwithwidelyavailable discount Local callsare cheap; international callscanbe TELEPHONE sociable. very alone ifyouwantitthatway,asMexicans are can get abittiresome, butyou’llonlybeleft after night night byyourself you want.Eating get a kick outof doingwhatyouwantwhen improves yourSpanish skills.Youcanalso getting intothelocalculture anditdefinitely watch out for them. andthere’swith yourpossessions nooneto take aquickdipintheocean –you’re stuck of traveling alonecanbewhenyouwantto with themwhenoutandabout.Onebigdrag valuables, sotheydon’thave tobeburdened fortheir inplaceswithgoodsecurity stay of theirluggage whenon theroadandshould people andget more outof a place. country. Localtours are agoodwaytomeet people followingsimilarroutes aroundthe up withothers asthere’s asteady stream of unless to. theychoose It’svery easytoteam to remain alonewhentraveling inMexico often alotof fun.Lonetravelers don’tneed company, fullof helpfultravel tips,andare additional advantage of providing ready-made inhostels. Hostelsplaces bystaying have the ers cancutaccommodationcostsinmany the priceof adoubleroom,butbudget travel- A singleroomnormallycostswellover half SOLO TRAVELERS Instruments Musical Leather goods 976 different note when struck. decorated, withtwocentraltonguesofwoodeachgivinga or carved cal hollowed-outpiecesofwoodattractively aneyeopenfortonguedrums,often-cylindri- drums. Keep of whistles,scrapeboardsandavariety tambourines, other instruments. Elsewhere you’llcome acrossmaracas, andalsoproducesviolins,cellos capital ofMexico, ad Guadalajara. and Hermosillo,Monterrey, Durango,Jerez, Saltillo Chihuahua, andcentralranchingtownssuchasZacatecas, northern (sandals), boots,clothesandsaddlesare availablein of goodones,too. Finely belts, bags, crafted othersizablecityhasplenty dozens ofstores, though every Solo travelers shouldbeespeciallywatchful Traveling alonecanbeavery goodwayof IETR • Sl rvlr ••SoloTravelers DIRECTORY León is Mexico’s shoecapital,andhas León isMexico’s Paracho, istheguitar Michoacán, huaraches

the 10-digit number. area code(usuallytheof thecityit was cannot be used in cannot beused other countries. and minimarts.Mexican cellphonesgenerally cards are widelyavailable fromnewsstands has asignificantpopulation.Telcel top-up airport) andcoverage almosteverywhere that outlets(includingoneatMexicosales City is themostwidespread network,withmany buy top-upcardsforM$100ormore. Telcel some callcredit. Forfurthercredit youcan M$400 toM$800includingacharger and (www.movistar.com.mx) .com) the three mainoperators – Mexican countrycode( international accesscode,followedbythe cell phonefromanothercountry,dialyour dial the10-digitnumber. TocallaMexican area code. Fromcellphonetophone,just or astheareasame codeyouare dialingfrom, the 10digitsifcellphone’sarea codeisthe phone fromalandline,youdial 10digits.Whencallingacell number total in).Theareabought codeandthephone’s Mexican cellphone Like otherMexican phonenumbers, every Cell Phones know the accessnumbers for somecountries, directo. Mexican term for‘home countrydirect’ is operator inthecountry you’re calling.The you make aninternational collect callviaan which through ‘home countrydirect’ service, calls, or anoperatoron card. Call you candosofromcardphoneswithout a to makeback. Ifyoudoneed acollectcall, call totheotherpartyaskthem callyou call you,soyoumayprefer topay foraquick the receiving partymuch more thanifthey A Collect Calls .kropla.com. on international iswww mobile phone use usually topthese up online. from aTelcel orMovistar outlet.Youcan cheaper istobuyalocalSIMcardor‘chip’ phone butitisgenerally very expensive. Much home inMexico ispossibleifyouhave aGSM If you want to use acellphoneinMexico,If youwanttouse A goodsourceforfurtherinformation Roaming withyourowncellphonefrom llamada porcobrar x , IUSACell 045 ifthecellphonehasadifferent Mexican international operators may x 090 for international calls, or use a 090 forinternational calls,oruse

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(www.telcel Movistar Movistar hasan país DIRECTORY 977 1, then 800 fol- 951, then x x x 212, then the x . To use a Telmex card . To use a Telmex 01, followed by the area by the area 01, followed 00, followed by the country 00, followed by the country signs. The cards come in signs. The cards come in x . These are sold at kiosks and . These are x ‘Ladatel’ (www.telmex.com) 01 prefix. You can call most of these these You can call most of 01 prefix. 52, then the area code and number. code 52, then the area 00, then the US country code 00, then the US country 01, then the Oaxaca area code 01, then the Oaxaca area Calls from Telmex card phones cost M$1 card phones Calls from Telmex To call a landline number in another town number in another To call a landline See opposite for information on prefixes prefixes for information on opposite See To make an international call, dial the inter- an international To make To call a landline number in Mexico from in Mexico To call a landline number Toll-Free & Operator Numbers Toll-Free & Operator Numbers ( in Mexico numbers Toll-free x most common, and most reliable on costs, are on costs, are most common, and most reliable the country’s with the name of those marked main, almost monopolistic, phone operator, Telmex phone you need a phone card known as a Ladatel tarjeta blue-and- – look for the shops everywhere yellow and M$100. M$30, M$50 denominations of for local calls; M$4 per minute per minute M$5 per long-distance within Mexico; to the US (except Alaska and Hawaii) minute or Canada; to Central M$10 per minute to America; and M$20 to M$25 per minute the world. Calls to cell phones are of the rest (local) or M$6.12 per M$3.12 per minute minute (long-distance). national prefix national prefix For exam- code and local number. code, area dial from Mexico, ple, to call New York City x code the New York City area your international another country, dial country code access code, then the Mexico x phones. for calls to cell Public Card Phones common in towns and cities, and These are you’ll usually find some at airports, bus sta- By far the tions and around the main plaza. (eight digits in Mexico City, Guadalajara and and Guadalajara City, (eight Mexico digits in else). everywhere seven digits Monterrey, you needdial the long- to or city in Mexico, distanceprefix City, Guadalajara for Mexico code (two digits digits for everywhere three and Monterrey; For exam- else) the local number. and then City to Oaxaca, dial Mexico ple, to call from x You’ll find area the seven-digit local number. town headings under city and codes listed this book. through numbers, and emergency, numbers from from numbers and emergency, numbers, lowed by seven digits) always require the the lowed by seven digits) always require local number.

casetas and hotels will will and hotels and often even private even private and often are often lower than often are casetas can use these at internet DIRECTORY •• Telephone cabinas. locutorios locutorios (card for discount long-distance and

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or city you’re in, simply dial the local number or city you’re Prefixes & Codes Prefixes & Codes calling a landline number in the town If you’re phones and Telmex card phones. phones and Telmex the discount card into the phone and you can use phones, private them from hotel-room access number, then dial in the scratch-off access number, then dial in the scratch-off code from the card, then dial the number you want in the normal way. You don’t put descuento calls). To use them, you call a local or toll-free phones. There are many brands – just ask for are phones. There a ternational calls when compared with Telmex with Telmex calls when compared ternational card phones, native telephone carriers offer substantial substantial offer carriers telephone native long-distanceand in- calls on Mexican savings and M$500, these cards marketed by alter- and M$500, these marketed cards Long-Distance Discount Cards Long-Distance Discount Cards from kiosks and some minimarts, Available M$100, M$200 usually in denominations of them. They often have a telephone symbol a telephone have them. They often outside, or signs saying ‘Lada’ ‘teléfono,’ or ‘Larga California In Baja Distancia.’ and you don’t need a phone card to use casetas ad- card phones, and their those for Telmex noise street that they eliminate are vantages These are call offices where an on-the-spot call offices where These are for you. Costs in operator connects the call Locutorios & Casetas de Teléfono de Teléfono Locutorios & Casetas as known are counts with internet phone servicescounts with internet as such Skype and they’ll usually advertise this with very this with very and they’ll usually advertise ac- who have costs. Travelers low per-minute and microphone. Many internet cafés have cafés have internet Many and microphone. service telephone these; some have installed at hotels, cafés and other places with wi-fi cafés and other places with wi-fi at hotels, access. You also need headset an appropriate For this you needFor to high-speed access inter- and also cafés at most internet net, available Internet Telephony Internet Telephony make collect calls for you, but they usually collect calls for you, make the service. for charge but it’s best to get this information from your from your this information best to get but it’s you leave. country before home lonelyplanet.com cafés, and also on their own laptops in places cafés, and also on their option access. Canwith wi-fi be the cheapest an account. if you have DIRECTORY dial book if you need internationalbook ifyouneed timezone can’t cope otherwise. thedrains the toilet, putpaperinitbecause may notbeprovided. Ifthere’s abinbeside it carry sometoilet paper withyou,because When outandabout, it’sagoodideato restaurants, andmuseums. bus stations vantage of facilitiesinplacessuch ashotels, Public toiletsare notcommon,sotake ad- TOILETS information. Palenque). and ules fromnearbytownssuch asOaxaca ern Chiapas(totheperditionof bussched- and theMarqués deComillasarea of east- zones, such astheSierraNorte of Oaxaca ing isalsoignored byafew remote rural hours allyear.minus seven sav- Daylight neighbor Arizona),soremains onGMT Sonora ignores saving (like daylight itsUS hour inOctober. Thenorthwestern of state go forwardonehourinAprilandback April tothelastSundayinOctober. Clocks summer time)runsfromthefirst Sundayin saving). daylight in winter, GMT hours during minusseven as USPacific Time (GMT hours minuseight HoradelPacífico, thesame (Norte) observes saving). Bajaduring daylight California hours inwinter,seven GMT minussixhours Time asUSMountain same (GMT minus Sur –are the onHoradelasMontañas, Nayarit, Sinaloa,SonoraandBaja California northern andwestern states –Chihuahua, five hours saving). Five duringdaylight minus sixhours inwinter, andGMT minus Time (that’sGMT asUSCentral the same Most of thecountryisonHoradelCentro, TIME x x have topayacharge for the call. (dial Some of canbereached these fromMexico x card. telephone Telmex a payphoneswithoutinserting 978 See theWorldMap atthebackofSee this saving time( Daylight For adomesticoperatorinMexico, dial toll-freeUS andCanadian numbers are 090. ForMexican directory information, 800 or 020; foraninternational operator,dial x IETR • Tm ••Time DIRECTORY x 040. 001 before the800),butyoumay x 888 followed by seven digits. 888 followedbyseven ‘horario deverano,’

o Spanish. or –forinformationorhelpinEnglish a week calientes.gob.mx/turismo) .turismomichoacan.gob.mx) .turismochiapas.gob.mx) .gob.mx) bajacalifornia.com) .gob.mx) .jalisco.gob.mx) .guanajuato-travel.com) Colima Coahuila Chihuahua Chiapas Campeche Sur Baja California Baja Aguascalientes (some websites are in Spanish only). head tourismoffices of each Mexican state .mx) 52-55-5089-7500; www.visitmexico.com, www.sectur.gob 800-987-82-24 the nationaltourismministry members staff speak English. brochures andquestions,usuallysome office. Theyare generally helpfulwithmaps, in Mexico ormunicipaltourist hasastate Just about townof every interest totourists TOURIST INFORMATION Quintana Querétaro Puebla Oaxaca León Nuevo Nayarit Morelos Michoacán México Mexico Jalisco Hidalgo Guerrero Guanajuato Durango .ah-chihuahua.com, www.chihuahua.gob.mx/turismoweb) US 888-811-6130; www.venaqueretaro.com) .gob.mx) .campechetravel.com) .durangoturismo.com, www.durango.gob.mx) .nl.gob.mx) .gob.mx) .gob.mx) Following are forthe details thecontact You cancalltheMexico Cityoffice of at any time – 24 hours a day, seven days atanytime–24hours aday,seven

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(www.lonelyplanet Instituto Nacional de Instituto Nacional (FMT) – is a brief – is a brief (FMT) (www.sre.gob.mx/losangeles) (www.sre.gob.mx/losangeles) Lonely Planet websiteLonely Planet (INM, National Migration www.inami Institute;

. The has links to updated visa information. updated has links to Los Angeles consulateLos Angeles At the US–Mexico border you won’t usu- border you At the US–Mexico Though the tourist card itself is free of Though of the tourist card itself is free One section of the card deals with the with the the card deals One section of For information on passport requirements, requirements, For information on passport Citizens of the US, Canada, EU countries, Citizens of (as little as 15 or 30 days in some cases) unless them specifically what you need.you tell It’s days than you think advisable to ask for more you’ll need, delayed or change in case you are your plans. it brings with it the obligation to pay charge, able at official border crossings, international able at official border crossings, international airlines, from airports and ports, and often consulates. Mexican and agencies travel one automatically – you have ally be given you to ask for it. And at many crossings here the card stamped at the ac- to get don’t have tual border, as the INM has control points it’s on the highways where into the interior to get also possible to do it. But it’s preferable it done at the border itself, are in case there complications elsewhere. and this section your stay in Mexico, length of The is filled out by the immigration officer. maximum possible is 180 days, but immigra- sometimes put a lower number tion officers Visa procedures, for those who needVisa them, procedures, severalcan take weeks may be re- and you residence to apply in your country of quired or citizenship. . Non-US citizens passing (even in p983 see transit) through US on the way to or the from the Mexico or visiting from Mexico, the passport and visa also check US, should the US. for requirements Tourist Card & Tourist Fee tourist card – officially the The Mexican turista para migratoria card document that you must fill out and get immigration when you stamped by Mexican It’s avail- till you leave. and keep Mexico, enter the the useful visas on information give similar and also summarized on are The rules matters. Mexico’s of the website Migración .gob.mx) .com) Zealand, Australia, Chile, New Argentina, and Switzerland Norway Iceland, Israel, Japan, among those who do not needare visas to list changes as tourists. The Mexico enter with travel well ahead of sometimes; check embassy or consulate. your local Mexican and (www.ac

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444-814-14-16, 800-343-38-87; 800-343-38-87; 444-814-14-16, Disability Travel and Recreation DIRECTORYTravelers with Disabilities •• (portal.sre.gob.mx/conreinounido) Radar 834-315-61-36, 800-710-65-32, in the 834-315-61-36, x Access-able Travel Source MossRehab ResourceNet ( 492-922-67-51, 800-712-40-78; www 492-922-67-51, 800-712-40-78; , 800-837-28-87; www.veracruzturismo 246-465-09-60 ext1519, 800-509-65-57; and 800-216-08-42; www.visitetabasco.com, www.visitetabasco.com, 800-216-08-42; x 999-930-37-60; www.mayayucatan.com.mx) 999-930-37-60; 669-981-88-86; www.sinaloa-travel.com) 669-981-88-86; 662-289-58-00, in the US 800-476-6672; 662-289-58-00, ( x (www.makoa.org/travel.htm)

x ( x advises disabled travelers on mobil- advises disabled travelers x x ( x x ( ( ( ( ( is run by and for disabled people. is run by and for disabled people.

In the UK,

Three further good sources for disabled Three Mobility International USA .turismozacatecas.gob.mx) www.descubresanluispotosi.com) .com.mx) www.tlaxcala.gob.mx/turismo) www.tabasco.gob.mx/turismo) www.gotosonora.com) turismo.tamaulipas.gob.mx) US 888-580-5968; London consulate of some Mexican consulates, including the consulates, some Mexican of the regulations sometimes change, it’s wise sometimes change, the regulations embassy to confirm them with a Mexican The websites you go. before or consulate Every tourist must have an easily obtainable have tourist must Every tourist card. Some na- Mexican-government tionalities also need to obtain visas. Because cess-able.com) cess-able.com) Resources VISAS travelers are are travelers resourcenet.org) holiday sites. .org.uk) change programs and disability organizations, programs and disability organizations, change listed. organizations with several Mexican ity issues and runs exchange programs. Its ity issues and runs exchange databases ex- includes international website of .miusa.org) Mexicans’ helpful attitudes toward others, and helpful attitudes toward others, Mexicans’ gladly improvised. are special arrangements flying or taking a taxi is easier. The absence flying or taking a taxi is easier. is partly compensated formal facilities by of the major tourist resorts and the more expen- and the more tourist resorts the major Bus transportation can be difficult; hotels. sive vide wheelchair access. Very few sidewalks few vide wheelchair access. Very is easiest in wheelchair ramps. Mobility have though some hotels and restaurants (mostly (mostly and restaurants though some hotels and some the market) toward the top end of pro- sites public buildings and archaeological TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES TRAVELERS WITH DISABILITIES disabled-friendly, is not yet very Mexico Yucatán Zacatecas Veracruz Tlaxcala Tamaulipas Tabasco Sinaloa Sonora San Luis Potosí San Luis lonelyplanet.com The website has links to good travel and and travel has links to good The website DIRECTORY depending on the office. er’s checks anywhere from M$100toM$1000 ally OKforthelatter, oran amountintravel- funds.’Amajor‘sufficient credit cardisusu- ofdocuments and,at someoffices, evidence photocopies of pages theimportant of these yourpassport,touristcard, office. You’llneed an hourandthree hours, depending onthe around M$200andshould half take between Migratorios.’Theprocedure costs ‘Servicios listed onthe inmanytownsandcities:they’rehas offices tended youhave toapplytheINM,which times, uptothemaximum.Toget acardex- its validitymaybeextended, oneormore ist cardislessthanthemaximum180days, If thenumberof daysgiven onyourtour- EXTENSIONS &LOSTCARDS consulate. or embassy a visa. Ifyou’re unsure, check withaMexican youmaywellneed observation, human-rights study, ortoparticipate aidor inhumanitarian report asavolunteer), is towork(even or oftural activities).Ifthepurpose yourvisit (including sports,health,artisticandcul- in whatare considered tobetouristactivities whenyoucross details the border. southern borders, butbesure toconfirm frontier zonesalongMexico’s northernand for visitsshorter than72hours withinthe can befinedfornot having it. be checked when youleave thecountry.You you have paid. toprovetourist cardwillbestamped that immediately. Whenyoupayatabank,your wherebank offices youcanpaytheDNIfee Most Mexican borderpostshave on-the-spot (usually 20kmto30kmfromtheborder). leadingintotheMexicanhighways interior andtheINM’scontrolpointson itself tier zoneisthe territory theborder between an airporttoflyoutof Mexico). Thefron- out of Mexico (orbefore youcheck inat you reenter thefrontierzoneonyourway the fee atabankinMexico atanytimebefore airfare. Ifyouenter byland,youmustpay Mexico byair,thefee isincludedinyour fluctuates withexchange rates. Ifyouenter fee). Theexactamountof thefee inpesos para noinmigrante the touristfee of US$22,calledthe 980 Look after your tourist card because itmay Look after yourtouristcardbecause A touristcardonlypermitsyoutoengage Tourist cards(andfees) are notnecessary IETR • Vlnern ••Volunteering DIRECTORY INM website (DNI,nonimmigrant (www.inm.gob.mx)

derecho under tary Service a project on thegroundinMexico, yourcosts If youcanmake direct personal with contact significant sumof moneyfortheopportunity. other countries,youwilloften have topaya zation thatspecializesinbringingpeoplefrom volunteer workinMexico anorgani- through some kindof accommodation.Ifyouarrange Longer-term volunteers willoften beoffered almostanywillinghand. skills; others canuse relevant experienceand/orSpanish language children. Someare lookingforpeoplewith turtlestohelpingdisadvantaged protecting sea hours toayearormore. Workranges from forperiodsfromafew yourservices can use unteer work.Many organizations andprojects tourist dollars tothecountryisdosomevol- nities andcontribute somethingotherthan A great waytoengage withMexican commu- VOLUNTEERING M$450. about which willissue areplacement for a costof official note totake toyourlocalINMoffice, Any of shouldbeable togive these youan Mexico City,oryourembassyconsulate. the yournearestmation, contact touristoffice, or bother trying earlier. until afew daysbefore itisduetoexpire; don’t and sightseeing. A one-week stay including stay Aone-week and sightseeing. community projects withculturalimmersion want tocombine volunteerworkinvaried munity.org) Cuernavaca-based Mexico-Based Programs Abroad Volunteer Transitions Abroad Idealist.org Coordinating tions Organisa- VoluntaryService Alliance ofEuropean for Mexican volunteer opportunities: sourcesare looking These goodplacestostart Volunteer Directories plement theclasses you take. time localvolunteering opportunitiestocom- project’s running costs. asked tocontribute asmallamounttothe are likely tobemuch lower. Youmayjustbe If you lose your card or need furtherinfor- yourcardorneed If youlose willnotextendMost INMoffices acard Many language schools ( p966 ) offer part- Sectur tourist office tourist Sectur (www.alliance-network.org) isspecificallygeared totravelers who (www.unesco.org/ccivs) (www.idealist.org)

Committee for International Volun- forInternational Committee (www.volunteerabroad.com) (www.transitionsabroad.com) Por Un Mejor Hoy Por UnMejor

( x 078, 800-987-82-24) lonelyplanet.com (www.hoycom

in DIRECTORY 981 (www.flyingdocs.org) Based (www.flyingdocs.org) (www.sipaz.org) An international peace group, An international peace group, (www.sipaz.org) On the streets of cities and towns you’ll of On the streets On local transportation it’s best to don long In beach resorts many Mexican women women many Mexican resorts In beach in California and Nevada,in California and LMV runs weekend clinics in northern Mexican with poor medical service; areas general translators, pilots and needs medical volunteers, volunteers. Sipaz needs Spanish-speaking volunteers to work for a in the fields of informa- in Chiapas, especially year or more rightsobservation. tion and human notice that women cover up and don’t display notice that women cover even shoulder. leg, or too much or mid-calf-length and a top that trousers your pants, with sleevesmeets of the top of most comfortable,some sort. You’ll feel and a man’s masculinity, drinking alone in a a man’s masculinity, drinking alone in a walking alone through cantina, hitchhiking, at night, or going alone to empty streets Excessive a clear head. places. Keep isolated For moral you vulnerable. will make alcohol support, and company if you want it, head for to meet likely you’re accommodations where hostels backpacker as (such other travelers join group excur- and and popular hotels), and activities. sions and or dresses, in shorts, skimpy tops dress bow to all sizes, though others swimsuits of and a T-shirt. modesty and swim in shorts women, of Lone women, and even pairs should be cautious about going to remote beach spots. but it’s wise to remember that many Mexicans that many Mexicans but it’s wise to remember (rather in the difference still believers are Gender than the equality) between the sexes. dec- way in a few equality has come a long polite a very generally are ades, and Mexicans must expect a few people, but lone women them up. Often to chat catcalls and attempts these talk men only want to to you, but you by avoid- attention unwanted can discourage ing eye contact sunglasses), (wear dressing confidently and speaking modestly, moving and addressed if you are coolly but politely Wearing a wed- that you must respond. feel Don’t put helpful too. ding ring can prove things that Mexican in peril by doing yourself as challenging women would not do, such Los Médicos Voladores Sipaz WOMEN TRAVELERS time in Mexico a great usually have Women companions or solo, with whether traveling teaching in the Yucatán Peninsula. Costs from US$2500 for from US$2500 Costs Peninsula. in the Yucatán teaching or more. five weeks

( p774 ),

(www.pronatura. (www.gviusa.com) Work (www.gviusa.com) Pronatura (www.amigoslink.org) DIRECTORY •• Women Travelers (www.adelanteabroad.com) Combines (www.earthwatch.org) With offices in the (www.amerispan.com) Can set you up with is a Mexican environment al NGO that environment is a Mexican Servicios Ecoturísticos La Ventanilla In Chiapas, Na Bolom ( p813 ) accepts vol- p813 Na Bolom ( In Chiapas, Other openings for environmental vol- Several of the sea-turtle protection projects Several sea-turtle the projects protection of US, Britain, Australia and Japan, Earthwatch runs environmental projects in Mexico (volunteers usually pay around plus flights). US$1500 to US$2500 per week, Sends work on summer paying volunteers from the US to health, community and youth projects in Latin America; prior Costs around US$4000 volunteers receive training. including flights. language-learning with varied volunteer opportunities in Charges around US$2000/2500/3000 for one/two/ Oaxaca. not flights. months including accommodation but three Global Vision International Earthwatch Council on International Exchange Educational Amigos de las Américas AmeriSpan a wide range of volunteer placements in Mexico, from reserves.orphanages and women’s shelters to nature Vol- unteering can be combined with language study. Charges dollars. hundred of at least several fees trips. (www.ciee.org) Arranges volunteer Adelante Abroad cal dry forest on the Oaxaca coast. on the cal dry forest Organizations Based Outside Mexico and conservingtropi- and crocodiles, mangroves which helps protect the Cabo Pulmo the Cabo Pulmo helps protect which on the Sea Cortez, of Park National Marine unteering are with Pulmo Amigos ( p308 ), ), p308 with Pulmo Amigos ( are unteering seeks to work at sea-turtle volunteers nesting other projects. in in the Yucatán and areas least some of the year. the year. least some of org.mx) Pesca (boxed text, p421 ), Tecolutla ( p674 ) ) p674 – including at La beaches along Mexico’s ( Tecolutla ), p421 text, (boxed Pesca at ) – use volunteers p855 and Puerto Arista ( special-needs kids in Tapalpa, Jalisco. Tapalpa, special-needs kids in In western Mexico, you can volunteer you can at the Mexico, In western for a school ), p548 Centro ( de Integración speaking volunteers in its work with injured in its work with injured speaking volunteers Central migrants from and destitute America. Pastor (boxed text, p858 ) can use Spanish- p858 text, (boxed Pastor able Spanish for a minimum three months to months minimum three for a able Spanish kids. handicapped with help in its work indigenous to promote on programs unteers El Buen Jesús Albergue Tapachula’s culture. welcomes volunteers at its center for street for street at its center welcomes volunteers on ) at Zipolite p769 ( Palmera kids, and Piña the Oaxaca with reason- coast needs volunteers accommodation and breakfast costs US$300. US$300. costs breakfast and accommodation ) p723 Oaxaca’s Centro ( Infantil de Esperanza lonelyplanet.com on marine conservation, sustainable tourism and English- DIRECTORY than M$150anhour. schools Positionsinhigh Pay rates forpersonal tutoringare rarely more yellow pages are sourcesof jobopportunities. guage papers andmagazines)telephone low, butyoucanlive on it. It’s possibleinothermajor cities.Thepayis teaching work,andGuadalajara isalsogood. Mexico Cityisthebestplacetoget English- or universities, orcanoffer personal tutoring. language schools, French speakers) mayfindteaching jobs in with allthe papers.necessary there bytheircompaniesororganizations working inMexico have posted usuallybeen allowed totake employment.Themanyexpats who enter Mexico astouristsare notlegally Mexicans jobs,andpeople themselves need WORK easily. more you canalsokeep yourvaluables outof sight 982 English speakers (andafew or German Press ads(especially inlocalEnglish-lan- Most of all,appearself-assured. IETR • Wr ••Work DIRECTORY preparatorias (high schools) (high ueu links. useful Planet unpaid jobopeningsinMexico. The likely tobeparttimeand short term. bar orrestaurant workintouristareas. It’s class. in onlyEnglish maybespoken though even will procure the appropriate papers. vent thelaw,orschool’s administration form of a school willoften payaforeign teacher inthe apermitorgovernmentneeds but a license, with themmaycomeup more often. offer shortcourses, soteaching opportunities schoolsguage tend department.Language to an appointmentwiththedirector of thelan- inEnglish. Foruniversities,or classes askfor institutionsthatoffertact bilingualprograms able atthebeginningof each newterm; con- or universities are more likely tobecomeavail- Jobs Abroad Apart fromteaching, findalittle youmight It’s helpfultoknowatleastalittleSpanish, A foreigner workinginMexico normally

website beca

(www.jobsabroad.com) (www.jobsabroad.com)

(scholarship), andthuscircum- (www.lonelyplanet.com) lonelyplanet.com posts paidand has several hasseveral Lonely M P

TRANSPORTATION 3 2 : 5 4 : 5

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8 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:23 PM THINGS CHANGE… THINGS CHANGE… is particu- information in this chapter The Check directly to change. larly vulnerable agent to make with the airline or a travel (and ticket how a fare you understand sure of the be aware you may buy) works and international for security requirements in details given The Shop carefully. travel. as point- should be regarded this chapter for your own not a substitute ers and are research. up-to-date careful, Travelers under 18 who are not accompa- under 18 who are Travelers visa require- For information on Mexican All citizens of countries other than the US All citizens of Mexico City, Cancún, Guadalajara and and City, Cancún, Guadalajara Mexico In any case it’s much better to travel to to to travel In any case better it’s much AIR AIR passport. Further information is available is available passport. Further information flights. valid for at least six months after they arrive they arrive after valid for at least six months in Mexico. may need special nied by both their parents documentation (see p965 ). . p979 ments and the tourist card, see Airports & Airlines di- airports receive The following Mexican flights from flights. international have All rect the US (some from several US cities, some City and from only one or two). Only Mexico flights from scheduled direct Cancún receive Europe, Canada, Central and South America Cuba. Havana, and on the websites of the US State Department the US State Department of on the websites & US Customs (www.travel.state.gov), the US (www.cbp.gov), Border Protection Homeland SecurityDepartment of (www Affairs and Canada’sForeign .dhs.gov) Ministry (www.voyage.gc.ca). with a passport because officials of Mexico used to passports and may all countries are other documents. In delay people who have need your passport you will often Mexico and when you check money if you change into hotels. that’s a passport and Canada should have Monterrey have the most international the most international have Monterrey 3 8 9

d d n i . n o i t a

t r o p s n

a r t - 1 Colectivos & Other Vehicles Colectivos & Other Vehicles 996 Bus 991 Bus Bicycle 990 Bicycle Air 983 Air Getting There & Away There Getting 983 Hitchhiking996 Local Transportation 998 Train 996 Car & Motorcycle & Motorcycle Car 993 Boat 991 Boat Land 986 Land 989 Sea Around Getting 989 Air 989 Entering The Country The Entering 983 1 - o GETTING THERE & AWAY GETTING THERE & AWAY Mexico to Canada are advised to carry a advised to Canada to carry a are Mexico ship (for example driver’s license and birth license and birth ship (for example driver’s introduced US or the recently certificate), passport card, or a Nexus or other ‘trusted card. Canadians back from flying traveler’ is required. To return to or transit the US to or transit the US To return is required. by land or sea, Americans and Canadians or other either a passport, must present identity and citizen- documents proving identification, such as a driver’s license, plus license, plus as a driver’s identification, such as an their citizenship such of some proof to or But to return original birth certificate. transit the US by air, a passport or other seas a Nexus card document such travel cure Passport Passport US and Canadian Mexico enter tourists can official photo without a passport if they have All you have to do is remain patient and patient and to do is remain All you have slow. Anyone are even if procedures polite, via the US should be to Mexico traveling passport US visa and current to check sure requirements. Immigration officers won’t generally keep keep won’t generally Immigration officers them to than it takes you waiting any longer flick through your your passport and enter ). p979 stay card ( on your tourist length of ENTERING THE COUNTRY ENTERING THE COUNTRY

CONTENTS Transportation Transportation c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 983 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 984 e x TRANSPORTATION i c .oma.bz) aeropuertosgap.com.mx) gap.com.mx) www.asur.com.mx) .com) aguascalientes.aeropuertosgap.com.mx) .aeropuertosgap.com.mx) Hermosillo Guaymas Guadalajara Durango Cozumel Chihuahua Cancún Bajío Aguascalientes Acapulco 984 Mexico City Mexico Mérida Mazatlán Manzanillo Los Cabos Loreto La Paz Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo Huatulco .aeropuertosgap.com.mx) manzanillo.aeropuertosgap.com.mx) .com.mx) o - 1 1 consumption over awholeyear. the USwillcontribute asmuchtoclimate changeasanaverage household’s gasandelectricity mosphere. The statisticsare areturn frightening: flightbetweenEurope twopeopletaking and distances theyallowustotravel, butbecausetheyrelease greenhouse gaseshighintotheat- climate change)butplanesare farand awaytheworstoffenders, notjustbecauseofthesheer staff andauthortravel. thecarbonoffset schemerunbyclimatecare.org.dustry, support LonelyPlanet offsets allofits and Uganda. travel schemesthatreduce inIndia,Honduras,Kazakhstan global warming–includingprojects level ofgreenhouse gasesthey are responsible forwithfinancialcontributionstosustainable Climatecare.org and otherwebsites use‘carboncalculators’ thatallowtravelers tooffset the Carbon Offset Schemes Pretty muchevery formofmotorized travel generates CO Flying &Climate Change warming. global benefit,butbelieves weallhave aresponsibility onglobal tolimitourpersonalimpact is thefastest-growing contributortothe problem.LonelyPlanetregards travel, overall, asa Climate changeisaseriousthreat to theecosystems thathumansrely upon,andairtravel CLIMATE CHANGE &TRAVEL - t r (El Bajío,León; BJX; ETN HR WY • i THERE&AWAY ••Air GETTING For more informationcheckout ourwebsite: www.lonelyplanet.com. inthetravel in- Lonely Planet,togetherwithRoughGuides andotherconcernedpartners a (LAP; (LTO; (MID; n (CUN; s (CZM; (DGO; (ACA; (GYM; p (MZT; (Bahías deHuatulco;HUX; (Bahías (SJD; o (HMO; (CUU; (MEX; (MEX; r x (Playa deOro;ZLO; x t (GDL; a x x t x i x x x x o (AGU; x 613-135-04-54; loreto.asa.gob.mx) 614-124-63-36; lapaz.aeropuertosgap n 999-946-15-30; www.asur.com.mx) x 998-886-00-47; www.cancun-airport x . x i x 987-872-20-81; www.asur.com.mx) n 618-817-88-98; www.oma.bz) 744-466-94-34; www.oma.bz) 622-221-05-11; guaymas.asa.gob.mx) 624-146-50-13; loscabos.aeropuertos 669-928-04-38; www.oma.bz) d (ZIH; 614-446-82-33; www.oma.bz) d 528-44 www.aicm.com.mx) 55-2482-2424; 662-261-00-00; hermosillo. x 338-54 guadalajara 33-3688-5504;

x 9 8 x 449-915-28-06; 4 477-713-64-06; guanajuato x 755-554-20-70; www 314-333-11-19; x 958-581-90-04; .com.mx) .aeropuertosgap.com.mx) internacionaldetoluca.com) .com.mx) gap.com.mx) tium led by Banamex in2007.Theirsafety tium ledbyBanamex and Aeroméxico wassoldtoaconsor- Mexico’s biggest hotel company,in2005, Mexicana byGrupoPosadas, wasbought Aeroméxico, bothformerlystate-controlled. Mexico’s twoflag airlines are Mexicana and Zacatecas Villahermosa Veracruz Torreón Toluca Tijuana Tampico San LuisPotosí Querétaro Vallarta Puerto Puebla Oaxaca Morelia Monterrey puebla.com) .com.mx) (TLC; (TLC; (TIJ; (TIJ; (PBC; (OAX; (MLM; (TAM; (TRC; (TRC; 2 (VER; (VER; (themaincauseofhuman-induced (ZCL; (MTY; (MTY; (QRO; x x x x (VSA; (VSA; x x x x x (SLP; 721-213-15-44; www.aeropuerto (PVR; (PVR; 664-683-24-18; tijuana.aeropuertosgap x 222-232-00-32; www.aeropuerto 951-511-50-88; www.asur.com.mx) x 871-712-82-39; www.oma.bz) 4-1-41; morelia.aeropuertos 443-317-14-11; 833-224-48-00; www.oma.bz) 229-934-90-08; www.asur.com.mx) 492-985-02-23; www.oma.bz) x 442-192-55-00; www.aiq.com.mx) 81-8030-9090; www.adelnorte x x 9-5-15; www.asur 993-356-01-57; 444-822-00-95; www.oma.bz) 322-221-12-98; vallarta lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:39 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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(www 8 Lonely 0

0 (www.sta 2

/ 2 1 has good has good / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:40 PM is one good is one good in the US 800-800- 55-5279-5390; www STA Travel STA CheapTickets x x 800-003-07-77; www in the US 800-772-7117; 800-400-8222; www.taca 81-8215-0150; www 800-700-67-00; plane.lan 800-700-67-00; x 800-428-43-22; www.usair 55-5230-0000; www.lufthansa x 800-502-20-00; www.mexicana 800-502-20-00; x x (code SY; x x (code NW; x x (www.airtreks.com) 55-5280-9192; www.varig.com.br; 55-5280-9192; www.varig.com.br;

(www.lonelyplanet.com) 800-003-07-77; www.flyted.com; hub 800-003-07-77; www.flyted.com; and, for students and trave-

998-887-24-07; www.ltu.de; hub 998-887-24-07; (code UA; (code UA; x (code NK; (code TA; (code TA; x (code VB; (code LA; (code LA; x (code US; (code LH; (code MX; . Airtreks (code RG; (code UA; (code UA; (code LT; (code LT; If Mexico is part of a bigger trip encom- a bigger is part of If Mexico International online booking agencies online booking agencies International 6557; www.suncountry.com; hub Minneapolis/St Paul) Minneapolis/St6557; www.suncountry.com; hub .nwa.com; hubs Detroit, Minneapolis/St Paul, Memphis) Paul, hubs Detroit, Minneapolis/St.nwa.com; .com; hub San Salvador) .com; hub San .cheaptickets.com) 26, of under the age lers travel.com) .united.com; hub Los Angeles) .united.com; hub Los serving communities in other Mexican also good sources. The countries are Planet website links too. passing other countries in Latin America or for you may be an the best ticket elsewhere, and you fly into one place (where open-jaw the intervening dis- another, covering out of tance by land), or a round-the-world ticket (these or A$2100), can cost as little as UK£900 uses which a combi- ticket or a Circle Pacific around the Pacific airlines to travel nation of region. multistop tickets. source for United Airlines US Airways Varig VivaAerobus Tickets is usually higher flying to Mexico The cost of and dur- around Christmas and New Year, can be more ing July and August. Weekends costly than weekdays. In addition to air-ticket worth it’s often agencies, and travel websites for special own websites airlines’ checking and websites magazines deals. Newspapers, Lan Airlines Lan Airlines Santiago) .com; hub LTU Lufthansa Mexicana City) .com; hub Mexico Northwest Airlines Spirit Airlines Sun Country Airlines Airlines TACA Ted Denver) Dusseldorf) .com; hub Frankfurt) .com; hub São Paulo) hub ways.com; hub Philadelphia) hub ways.com; .vivaaerobus.com; hub Monterrey) hub .vivaaerobus.com; www.spiritair.com; hub Fort Lauderdale) hub Fortwww.spiritair.com; worth a look include 800-123-85-88; 800-123-85-88; 800-900-50-00; x 800-904-60-00; www x in the US 800-432-1359; 55-5387-0321; www 800-122-54-25; www 800-252-75-22; www 800-237-62-25; www 800-237-62-25; 800-123-47-10; www x 800-428-43-22; www 55-5242-0150; www.ar.jal 800-265-26-72; www 5 x 800-021-40-10; www 8 x 800-435-92-82; www.ata.com; 800-435-92-82; www.ata.com; x x x x 800-719-28-27; www 9 998-898-22-55; www.air x (code AR;

800-123-46-60; www.airfrance x x

800-237-66-27; www.aeromar 800-237-66-27;

x (code CO; d 800-123-31-20; www.avianca x 52-5250-6355; www.cubana.co.cu; 52-5250-6355; www.cubana.co.cu; 800-252-3421; www.aladia.com; 800-252-3421; www.aladia.com; 800-284-22-72; www.aviacsa.com; 800-284-22-72; www.aviacsa.com; 800-011-23-45; www.interjet.com x x d x x n 55-1101-1515; www.iberia.com; hub i (code AA; GETTING •• Air THERE & AWAY . (code F9; 55-5279-5390; www.klm.com; hub x x x x x n (code QA; (code BA; (code JR; o (code AS; (code DL; i x (code JL; t (code HP; (code CM; x a t (code AM; (code TZ; r (code AC; (code UX; o (code AF; p (code VW; (code 4O s (code AV; (code AV; (code CU; (code 6A; n (code AYD; (code AYD; (code IB; a r t (code KL; - 1 1 - AIRLINES FLYING TO & FROM MEXICO & FROM MEXICO TO FLYING AIRLINES o hub Mexico City) hub Mexico .com; hub Bogotá) .com; hub .mx; hub Toluca) .mx; hub .aeromexico.com; hub Mexico City) hub Mexico .aeromexico.com; hub Cancún) hub .delta.com; hub Atlanta) hub .delta.com; europa.com; hub Madrid) hub europa.com; www.aerolineas.com.ar; hub Buenos Aires) hub Buenos www.aerolineas.com.ar; Japan Airlines KLM Frontier Airlines Iberia Interjet Cubana Delta Air Lines Continental Airlines Copa Airlines Madrid) British Airways Click Mexicana Aviacsa Avianca America West Airlines ATA Alaska Airlines American Airlines Air France Aladia Dallas) hub .aa.com; Aeroméxico Air Canada Air Europa Aerolíneas Argentinas Aeromar Aero California records are comparable to major US and US and to major comparable are records European airlines. lonelyplanet.com .com.mx; hub Mexico City) .com.mx; hub Mexico hub Havana) hub Denver) hub www.frontierairlines.com; Amsterdam) .copaair.com; hub Panama City) hub Panama .copaair.com; hub Chicago) hub www.continental.com; hub Houston) www.continental.com; hub .americawest.com; hub Phoenix) .americawest.com; hub .aircanada.ca; hub Toronto) hub .aircanada.ca; Seattle) hub .alaskaair.com; .com; hub Paris) .com; .com; hub Tokyo) .com; .click.com.mx; hubs Cancún, Mexico City) .click.com.mx; hubs Cancún, Mexico .aerocalifornia.com; hub Tijuana) hub .aerocalifornia.com; .britishairways.com; hub Heathrow Airport, London) .britishairways.com; hub Heathrow Airport, c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 985 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 986 e x TRANSPORTATION i c www.travel.co.nz orwww.zuji.co.nz from .au orwww.zuji.comfromAustralia,and at season). high hundredround-trip (plusseveral dollars extra looking atA$2300orNZ$2300more, (normally LosAngeles). You’re normally The cheapest routes are usuallyviatheUS Australia &NewZealand www.zuji.com. are alsoanoption.Foronlinebookingstry routespoints such viaEurope asBangkok, in Asia aswell.Frommore westerly Asian Francisco orVancouver), andmaybeone (oftenthe USorCanada LosAngeles, San You normallyhave tomake aconnectionin Asia 986 Nrh America. North line oralliancepartner, changing planesin air-native istoflywithaUS orCanadian LTU, andAirEuropa. Lufthansa Analter- Air Madrid, British Airways,Iberia, KLM, Airlines includeAeroméxico, AirFrance, Mexico andMonterrey. City,Cancún There are direct fromEuropeto flights Europe countries. several .com) from SouthAmerica. from Guatemala CityandUS$800toUS$1000 fares toMexico ataroundUS$500 Citystart City andFlores (Guatemala). Round-trip São Paulo, Panama City,Havana, Guatemala There are from alsodirect toCancún flights and SantoDomingo(DominicanRepublic). Salvador, Guatemala City,Havana (Cuba) Panama Rica),San City,SanJosé(Costa citiesinSouthAmerica,andfrom least eight You canflydirect toMexico Cityfromat Caribbean Central &SouthAmericathe www.travelocity.ca. try www.kayak.com,www.expedia.ca and or PuertoVallarta. Foronline bookings at aroundC$900toMexico City,Cancún the US.Round-tripfares fromTorontostart are often available withachange of in flight direct toMexico, flights better though deals Montreal, TorontoandVancouver allhave Canada Zealand. New o - 1 For onlinefares trywww.travel.com 1 - t r is anonlinesourceof airtickets from ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING a n s p o r t a t i o n . i n d d

9 8 6 Viajo.com Viajo.com (www.viajo available atallMexico’s road borders: before .com, www.expedia.com, www.kayak.com, tickets are offered bywww.cheaptickets Border Crossings LAND www.travelocity.com. www.lowestfare.com, www.orbitz.comand Watchdog more. US$200 youmayhave season topayUS$100 high typically intheUS$350toUS$500range. In discounted round-tripfaresLow-season are erators cancostasmuch asotherairlines. US$250. Ifyou’re notlucky,‘budget’ op- round-trip fares fromtheUStoMexico for and Aviacsa. Ifyou’re luckyyoucanget are alsoavailable onMexico’s Aero California offer toMexico, flights andeconomicalfares America West,FrontierAirlinesandTed all numbers of Mexican destinations. Aeroméxico and Mexicana alloffer large many others. (fromHouston), Continental are from one-stopconnectingflights planes fromaround30UScities.There You canflytoMexico withoutchanging The USA .opodo.com or www.ebookers.com. Europe,trywww line bookingsthroughout from Frankfurt,Paris orMadrid. Foron- to UK£600fromLondon,or€600€700 ataroundUK£500 normallystart Cancún enough fuel togetenough tothenextsizabletown crossing theborder,make sure youhave number thefree and Canada, 222-01-58; www.sanbornsinsurance.com) with aMexican consulate, change from timetotime. Youcancheck avehicleThe rulesfortaking intoMexico Car &Motorcycle many travelers have much reason to linger. Mexican bordertownsare notplaceswhere ings inthisbook’sregional chapters. Most cross- information onthemostimportant andMexico. Belize between You’llfindmore Guatemalabetween andMexico, andtwo the US–Mexico border. There are about 10 There are over crossingpointson 40official You maynotfindgasolineormechanics For current bargain offers, check US budget airlinessuch asATA, SpiritAir, Round-trip fares toMexico Cityor ( x

800-401-3880) (www.airfarewatchdog.com) Mexican tourist information tourist Mexican . Sanborn’s lonelyplanet.com or,intheUS 111/12/2008 5:45:40 PM 1 / 1 . Online 2 / 2 ( 0 x Airfare Airfare 0 8

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8 0 0 tarjetón 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:40 PM each time you each tarjetón de inter- tarjetón for another before you process your vehi- process your you before comprobante a document which you will exchange you will exchange a document which comprobante de retorno comprobante With the permit you will be given a sticker a sticker With the permit you will be given in the vehicle take the option to You have as a passport, birth certificate or voter’s or voter’s as a passport, birth certificate card. registration contract from the financing institution that is less than three or an invoice letter months old. to be firms allow their vehicles US rental the contract, in the into Mexico), taken importing the vehi- the person name of company from the rental cle, and a letter the US. it out of authorizing you to take the com- of by the company and proof the vehicle. of pany’s ownership migración that you should (note for the vehicle cate these plan to drive if you both of have Guatemala into either through Mexico or Belize). institu- card, issued by a an credit press if you don’t have Mexico; tion outside of deposit of one you must pay a returnable between US$400 (depend- US$200 and is) at the border. ing on how old the car Your card details or deposit serve as a the car out of take that you’ll guarantee your tourist card (FMT) before Mexico consulate for online and Note: expires. applications, only Visa and MasterCard are accepted. cle permit. proof of citizenship or residency, such such citizenship or residency, of proof license. driver’s is not fully paid for, a credit if the vehicle (though few vehicle for a leased or rented employment of for a company car, proof tourist card (FMT): at the border go to at the border card (FMT): tourist certifi- title or registration of certificate Ex- or American a Visa, MasterCard

When you leave Mexico the last time, you Mexico When you leave the import permit canceled by the must have may do this authorities. An official Mexican One person cannot bring in two vehicles. If cannot bring in two vehicles. One person attached a motorcycle to your car, you have with you to you’ll need traveling another adult obtain a permit for the motorcycle, and he/she for it. all the right papers will need to have windshield. to be displayed on your for the period shown on Mexico and out of for a your tourist card. Ask nación, for a you to Mexico, when you return Mexico; leave swap the

for details of for details of

(temporary vehicle vehicle (temporary 7 8 9

permiso de importación importación permiso de d d n i GETTING •• Land THERE & AWAY . n o i t a t r o p s n a r t - 1 The fee for the permit is the peso equiva- The fee The permits are issued at offices at border issued The permits are The person importing the vehicle will need vehicle importing the The person 1 - o the border. to carry the original and one or two photo- the following documents of each copies of photocopies (people at the office may make as a rule must all be in which for a small fee), his/her own name (except that you can bring if vehicle or child’s in your spouse’s, parent’s or birth certificate you can show a marriage your relationship): proving border, US$39.60 from a Mexican consulate, consulate, border, US$39.60 from a Mexican You can also pre-register or US$49.50 online. actu- speedsonline which up the process of ally obtaining or at a consulate the permit for Vehicles’), in which case it will be delivered case in which it will be delivered for Vehicles’), by courier. to you the US$29.70 if obtained at or after lent of at www.banjercito.com.mx (click on ‘Red de at www.banjercito.com.mx Módulos IITV’). also apply for the You can permit online at www.banjercito.com.mx Import Permit (‘Application for Temporary Baja California, and by the Mexican consu- California,Baja and by the Mexican Dallas, Austin, in Chicago, Houston, lates Sacramento, San Fort Worth, Los Angeles, Bernardino, Phoenix, Albuquerque and given these all Details locations are of Denver. crossings or (in some cases) at posts a few crossings or (in some cases) at posts a few at Ensenada port into Mexico, kilometers in terminal ferry (Laand Pichilingue Paz) far south as Guaymas (see p318 far south as Guaymas (see Sonora regulations). the Institute) in the border zones, and at the and at the in the border zones, Institute) California, Baja if at La terminal ferry Paz, to across from there taking a vehicle you are will want to see your per- mainland Mexico, not needed vehicles to take are mit. Permits Californiainto Baja itself, of and the state as them for travel Sonora does not require the rest of the US frontier and up to 70km the US frontier and up to 70km of the rest and Belizefrom the Guatemalan frontiers. Officials Instituto Nacional the at posts of Immigration de Migración (INM; National temporal de vehículos temporal a vehicle if you want to take import permit) California,beyond Baja Guaymas in beyond or beyond the border zone that Sonora state, along 20km to 30km into Mexico extends see p993 . VEHICLE PERMIT You will need a inside Mexico. For information on driving For information Mexico. inside Mexico, inside once you’re and motorcycling lonelyplanet.com c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 987 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 988 e x TRANSPORTATION i c Guatemala City wtot it. without customs office tomake arrangements toleave yourconsulateyou mustcontact oraMexican Mexico. Ifthevehicle iswrecked completely, on your next trip. permission tobringavehicle intothecountry charge afinetoyourcredit card,ordenyyou try illegallyanddecidetokeep yourdeposit, assume you’ve leftthevehicle inthecoun- ing thepermitcanceled,authoritiesmay crossing. Ifyouleave Mexico withouthav- have attheborder official tofindtheright to 30kmbefore Ifnot,you’ll theborderitself. as youenter theborderzone,usually20km 988 (US$6, three hours, 13daily).Travel agen- Vans runfromFrontera Corozal toPalenque minute river crossing toFrontera Corozal. hours), fromwhich it’sonlyaUS$1.50,five- Técnica(US$6,five tosix toLa Bethel through tive istotake abusfromFlores thatcontinues costs US$7toUS$13perperson; an alterna- to Frontera Corozal, Mexico,from Bethel of theUsumacinta. The40-minute boattrip (US$4, fourhours), ontheGuatemalan bank runfromFlores 2nd-class buses toBethel Flores and Palenque, Mexico, daily several San JuanTravel Maya Dorada/Mundo City,runby hours),eight viaBelize to Guatemala, andChetumal(US$28,seven Guatemala City US$15) 5506; www.tikalmayanworld.com; .gt; US$25-35) and Mazatenango by Tapachula, Chiapas(sixhours) viaEscuintla Guatemala Cityand run allthewaybetween and/orcombis.Afew arebuses dailybuses within Guatemala andMexico, byplentiful linked toGuatemala City,andnearbycities Hidalgo andElCarmen/Talismán are all Cuauhtémoc, CiudadTecún Umán/Ciudad Mesilla/CiudadThe roadborders atLa Guatemala Corozal enroute. See p913 for more details. townsof Orange Walkand ing attheBelizean Chetumal, Mexico (US$10,fourhours), call- City runby Around 18dailybuses Belize o - 1 For theRíoUsumacinta route between There are Flores, afew between dailybuses Only theownermaytake thevehicle outof 1 x - t r ETN HR WY • ad THERE&AWAY ••Land GETTING a n 227-20-25) s p o r , t a x Línea Dorada x t i o

(in Flores n travel between Belize Cityand travel Belize between 2366-4038; www.ticabus.com; US$16) 2232-3661; www.transgalgosinter.com . i n d d

(in Flores

9 x 8 8

Trans Galgos Inter TransGalgos (in GuatemalaCity 7926-0041) x and Novelo’s Novelo’s 7926-0070) . Tica Bus x (in Belize Línea and 2232-

. (in (in hound.com) Route FareRoute Duration carry itspassengers onmany of them. Mexicanuses associate companiestoactually Mexico. Arizonaandnorthwesterating between Baldomero Corral Arizona tonorthwestMexico; and .com) Mexico; Vegas, andTucsonwithnorthwest Phoenix (www.tufesa.com.mx) TexanChicago andseveral cities; Los Angeles, Denver, Phoenix, Albuquerque, tral northMexico andcentralMexico from .com.mx) Americanos Autobuses most ads.Themajor companiesinclude language newspapers intheUShave the They’re notvery wellpublicized:Spanish- US citieswithnorthernMexican cities. Mexicans workingintheUS,linkmany by mainlyused Cross-border busservices, BUS The USA near Frontera Corozal. Mayastanding ruinsatYaxchilán (see p845 ), route it’s wellworthdetouringtotheout- around US$40,butifyou’re traveling this bus packages thetwoplacesfrom between cies inPalenque andFlores offer bus-boat- York (52 hours). Chicago (34hours) andUS$128fromNew Angeles (16hours), US$129toUS$141 from to ElPaso, forexample,are US$64fromLos smaller busline. Greyhound’s one-wayfares reach others, transfer fromGreyhound to a manyUSbordercities;to Greyhound serves then catch anonwardbusontheotherside. train), crossitonfootorbylocal bus,and make yourwaytotheborderononebus(or You canalso,often inlittleornoextra time, 10hr Houston-Monterrey US$40 9hr 5hr US$25 Houston-Matamoros US$46 Dallas-Reynosa 24hr 11hr Dallas-Monterrey US$50 16hr 12hr US$35 8hr Phoenix-Hermosillo US$40 Phoenix-Álamos US$50 US$110 12hr Los Angeles-Mexicali US$90 Los Angeles-LosMochis Los Angeles-Hermosillo Some sample cross-borderSome sample services: , operating from California, Nevada and Nevada , operatingfromCalifornia, , operatingtonortheastMexico, cen- Crucero Greyhound has somecross-border routes: it (www.tbcconexionphoenix.com) ( x , linkingLosAngeles, Las

800-531-5332; www.crucero-usa ( x

(www.autobusesamericanos 800-231-2222; www.grey lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:41 PM 1 / 1 2 / Transportes Transportes 2 0 0 Tufesa 8 , op-

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8 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:41 PM 800-398-9813; x ( 800-327-7030; www 800-327-7030; 877-724-5425; www.holland 877-724-5425; 888-227-6482; www 888-227-6482; x ( x x ( ( 800-647-2251; www.celebrity.com) 800-647-2251; 800-774-6237; www.princess.com) 800-774-6237; 888-722-0021; www.crystalcruises 888-722-0021; x x 415-382-8900; www.pocruises.com) ( ( x ( x ( DEPARTURE TAX TAX DEPARTURE A departure tax equivalent to about M$250 flights from is levied on international It’s usually included in your ticket Mexico. cost, but if it isn’t, you must pay in cash dur- agent your travel ing airport Ask check-in. in advance. Following are some of the cruise the lines visit- of some Following are Airlines in Mexico Airlines in Mexico .ncl.com) by cities ignored betweenroutes provincial Several low-cost airlines have two. the bigger including years, operations in recent started Alma de México, with its hub at Guadalajara, Interjet (hub: Toluca), Tijuana), (hub: Avolar (hub: Volaris (hub: Monterrey), VivaAerobus (Mexicana’s Toluca) and Click Mexicana writing subsidiary). At the time of no-frills had its Azteca the low-cost Líneas Aéreas GETTING AROUND GETTING AROUND AIR and many smaller cities in Mexico All large airports and passenger services. have flying can you get, Depending on the fare journeys, especially be good value on longer considering the long bus trip that is prob- Domestic flights within ably the alternative. if you book sometimes cheaper are Mexico in conjunc- you go to Mexico, them before roundt-rip ticket. tion with an international the country’s are and Mexicana Aeroméxico also numerous are airlines. There two major flying and often cheaper smaller ones, often cruise from California, cost well under can 10 days. for per person US$1000 numbers: with US phone ing Mexico, Carnival Cruise Lines Celebrity Cruises Crystal Cruises Holland America Line Norwegian Cruise Lines P&O Cruises Princess Cruises Royal Caribbean International .carnival.com) america.com) www.royalcaribbean.com) .com)

(www Amtrak servesfour US 9 8 arrangements for much for much arrangements 9

d d n i GETTING AROUND •• Air . n o i t a US Customs & Border Protection t r o p s , which posts waiting times at entry posts waiting , which n a r t 800-872-7245; www.amtrak.com) - 1 On the Pacific route (the Mexican Riviera (the Mexican route On the Pacific A Caribbean cruise from ports in the If you’re traveling from Mexico into the into from Mexico traveling If you’re 1 - x o Puerto Vallarta and Acapulco; cruises also Puerto Vallarta Zihuatanejo, Bahías call at Manzanillo, de Huatulco and the new Puerto Chiapas, near Tapachula. in cruise parlance), the main ports of call call in cruise parlance), the main ports of Ensenada, Cabo San Lucas, Mazatlán, are Mexico’s other Caribbean cruise ports are other Caribbean cruise ports are Mexico’s Playa and Calica, just south of Puerto Morelos at del Carmen. terminal The Costa Maya was destroyed by Hurricane Dean Mahahual it. rebuild plans to are in 2007 but there passengers a year arriving at Mexican ports. a year arriving at Mexican passengers is the most popular cruise Caribbean Mexico destination, usually in combination with other West, Florida, Caribbean stops and/or Key is the single busiest stop. and Isla Cozumel coasts without having to worry about the log- to worry about coasts without having accommodations, eating or transpor- istics of is the world’s most popular tation. Mexico six million cruise cruise destination, with over For those who like to combine snatches of of to combine snatches For those who like ease on the high of seas, with a life Mexico cruises to enjoy ac- you from the US enable tivities and attractions on and near Mexico’s (opposite Piedras Negras) and Laredo (op- (opposite Nuevo Laredo). posite SEA cities from which access to Mexico is easy: San access to Mexico cities from which El Paso, Diego, California Tijuana); (opposite Texas Del Rio, Ciudad Juárez); (opposite Texas Ciudad Acuña) and San Antonio, (opposite to Eagle by bus linked is Pass which Texas, of the border by rail. Trains can be quicker be quicker the border by rail. Trains can of than buses, more or slower and and cheaper on the route. depending expensive, ( TRAIN TRAIN passenger trains no regular are Thoughthere bor- the US–Mexico side of on the Mexican the US side possible to reach der, it’s quite .cbp.gov) ‘Travel’). (under points US at a busy time of year, have a look at the a look at the have year, time of US at a busy of website CAR & MOTORCYCLE MOTORCYCLE CAR & for taking the procedures on For information for p318 , and p986 see into Mexico, a vehicle cheaper simpler and lonelyplanet.com southeastern US, or a Mexican Riviera Riviera Mexican US, or a southeastern of the state of Sonora. of the state of c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 989 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 990 e x TRANSPORTATION i c 990 mainly on distance. Low-costairlinesflying mainly ondistance. including taxes andcharges, depending ies are aboutM$1300andM$2100 between with nonbudget airlinestomostMexican cit- payment deals do exist. way tickets, somecheaper though advance- are usuallysimplytwicethepriceof one- you flylate Round-tripfares intheevening. if youpayfortheticket afew daysaheadorif (see seasons p971 ). You’lloften save money generally corresponds totheMexican holiday season far aheadyoubookandpay.High or quiettimeof oryear,andhow day,week Fares can dependonwhetheryouflyatabusy Fares tional aviation safety standards. Authority tobeincompliancewithinterna- (FAA) considers Mexico’s CivilAviation ofauthorities because safety violations. suspendedbytheMexicanoperating license o - 1 Typical one-wayfares from Mexico City The USFederal Aviation Administration 1 the country coastalresorts Bajío,Mérida, the country the &southeast west,northwest country the country the Puebla, Acapulco,Cancún country west,Gulfcoast north, facilities. andAeromarare affiliatesofAeroméxicoandnormallyshare itsbooking Note: AeroméxicoConnect Gulfcoast,southeast Volaris VivaAerobus the Mexicana country Magnicharters Interjet Click Mexicana Avolar Aviacsa Alma deMéxico Aladia Aeroméxico Connect Aeroméxico Aeromar Aero California Areas Aéreo Calafia Airline Telephone Website MEXICAN DOMESTICAIRLINES served - t r ETN RUD • iyl AROUND••Bicycle GETTING a n s p o r t a t i o n . i n d d

x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x

9 9 0 0-8-27 wwvlrscmm Toluca&16othercitiesaroundthe city Monterrey &18othercitiesaround www.volaris.com.mx over50citiesnationwide 800-786-52-74 www.vivaaerobus.com www.mexicana.com 81-8215-0150 800-502-20-00 Toluca&14othercitiesaround City,Guadalajara,Monterrey, Mexico www.magnicharters.com.mx City&24othercitiesaround Mexico 800-201-14-04 www.interjet.com.mx Tijuana &18othercitiesinthecenter, 800-011-23-45 www.click.com.mx City&19othercitiesaround Mexico 800-122-54-25 www.avolar.com.mx Guadalajara&28othercitiesaround 800-212-86-52 City,Monterrey, Guadalajara, Mexico www.aviacsa.com 800-284-22-72 www.alma.com.mx 800-800-25-62 BajaCalifornia, CentralMexico, www.aladia.com over50citiesnationwide 800-252-34-21 www.amconnect.com west,northeast, CentralMexico, www.aeromexico.com 800-800-23-76 800-021-40-00 www.aeromar.com.mx LaPaz &18othercities around 800-237-66-27 BajaCalifornia&northwest www.aerocalifornia.com www.aereocalafia.com.mx 800-237-62-25 624-143-43-02 charge upto 50% less. from Toluca,50kmwestof Mexico City,may consider thebring-your-own-bike tours of unless youhave timeon your side. get much of itafterwards thatbackbyselling ing costsaroundM$5000.Don’t expect to bike forafew tour-mountain suitable weeks’ rare. are count whenplanningyourroute. Bike lanes topographyandhotclimatetainous intoac- handle yourownrepairs. Take themoun- thebestequipment,andbefullyabletouse pared for the challenges. Youshould befit, possibleifyou’rearound iscertainly pre- (see p995 ) are deterrents. biking However, ists andpedestriansotherroadhazards robbery, poorroadsurfaces,careless motor- The sizeof thecountry,reports of highway Cycling isnotacommonwaytotourMexico. BICYCLE All citieshave bicyclestores: adecent If you’re interested inalongMexican ride, lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:42 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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8 0 0 ejecutivo ejecutivo 2 / 2 ordinario. 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:42 PM service to is preferable local buses have a comfortable buses have buses serve small towns and services, termed sometimes Bring a sweater or jacket to combat over- or jacket Bring a sweater Many 2nd-class services have no ticket 2nd-class servicesMany no ticket have ductor. These slow, non- buses to take tend ductor. big cities and will toll roads in and out of if you to pick up passengers: stop anywhere the of some you might make board midroute money trip standing. The small amount of let and they stop infrequently. They always let and they stop infrequently. the bad ones) for most of (often show movies as all want to watch, trip: too bad if you don’t video screen. seats face a with deluxe As zealous air-conditioning. in the bus stationbuses, you buy your ticket before boarding. SECOND CLASS (2a) clase Segunda slower travel cheaper, and provide villages, almost are A few routes. on some intercity as 1st-class as quick, comfortable and direct and shabby. old, slow buses. are Others to the con- you just pay your fare office; Classes Classes DELUXE De lujo the busy routes. run mainly on (executive), modern and comfortable, swift, They are seats, air- legroom, adequate with reclining board (but or no stops, toilets on con, few not necessarily sometimes toilet paper), and movies They usually show drinks or snacks. video screens. on FIRST CLASS clase (1a) Primera All sizable seat passenger. numbered for each 1st-class bus services.towns have Standards The least. at the very adequate comfort are of a toi- and air-conditioning buses usually have

!El Tour directo. the city center!) If If the city center!) 1 9 9

d . d Round-trip. n el centro, i GETTING AROUND •• Boat . A few more stops than more A few n o Nonstop. i t Stops wherever passengers want to get on or off the bus; deluxe and 1st-class buses are never and 1st-class buses are Stops wherever bus; deluxe passengers want to get on or off the a t Bus that started else but is stopping to let off and takeits journey somewhere If the bus on passengers. r Nonstop on short to medium-length trips; stops on long trips. very few Very few stops. few Very o p Bus that starts in and usually leaves on time; its journey at the bus station you’re s n a r t - company does not have a computer booking system, you may have to wait until the bus arrives tickets any before are sold. If the bus is full, you have to wait for the next one. De paso redondo Viaje Semi-directo Ordinario Express Local HOW MANY STOPS? STOPS? HOW MANY of bus service between the types on offer: It’s useful to understand the difference Sin escalas Directo de paso. 1 Highway robbery happens very rarely. rarely. Highway very robbery happens Baggage is safe if stowed in the bus’ baggage Baggage bus’ baggage if stowed in the is safe 1 - o BUS BUS

stretches of highway far from cities, and in of stretches 2nd-class buses. hold, but get a receipt for it when you hand a receipt hold, but get documents your most valuable Keep it over. money etc) in the cabin with you, (passport, closely protected. them and keep Autobuses, Central de Autobuses, Central Camionera or simply La Central (not to be confused with and comfortable, frequent, reasonably reasonably and comfortable,frequent, priced bus services connect all cities. Most one main bus termi- cities and towns have all long-distance and busesnal where arrive de depart. It may be called the Terminal umel ( p892 ) and Isla Holbox ( p881 ). p881 ( Holbox ) and Isla p892 umel ( and bus network, has a good road Mexico different is no single main terminal, there separate terminals bus companies will have around town. scattered M$550 to M$800; a car up to 5m in length up to 5m in length M$550 to M$800; a car costs between and M$2500. There M$1000 Yucatán Peninsula from the also ferries are ), Isla Coz- p878 ( Isla Mujeres to the islands of California with the Mexican mainland sail mainland sail California with the Mexican between Santa Rosalía Guaymas, La and Paz and Topolobampo. and La Paz and Mazatlán, cost from One-way passenger seat fares long, offered by the fun and friendly by the fun and friendly long, offered (www.bikemexico.com) BOAT Baja connecting and passenger ferries Vehicle the Yucatán Peninsula, Chiapas, Oaxaca, Oaxaca, Chiapas, Peninsula, the Yucatán a month up to and Michoacán, Mexico Pacific lonelyplanet.com The risk is higher at night, on isolated The risk is higher at night, on isolated c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 991 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 992 e x TRANSPORTATION i c 992 cost 10%or20% less than 1stclass. Ejecutivo.and Turistar buses Second-class suchsuper-deluxe asETN,UNO services more than1stclass,orabout 60%more for Deluxe may costjust10%or20% buses to M$70perhourof travel (70kmto80km). First-class typically costaroundM$50 buses towns. nearby usuallyrunningshort routes between seats, witharound25 fairly new,2nd-classbuses available. buses arefind that2nd-classbuses theonly in theremoter areas, you’lloften however, boarded bybanditsonsomeroads.Out theyarecause more vulnerable tobeing of maintenance ordriver orbe- standards than 1st-classordeluxe forreasons buses, entailed. time ally worththediscomfortorextrajourney you save bytraveling 2nd-classisnotusu- Costs o - 1 Second-class buses canalsobelesssafe buses Second-class Microbuses or‘micros’areMicrobuses small,usually 1 coast, northern Mexico coast,northern highlands, highlands,Pacific coast,northeast Manzanillo northwest coast,centralnorth, northwest coast,centralnorth, coast(Guerrero state) Tabasco, Oaxaca,Puebla Tabasco, Gacela Oaxaca,Yucatán Peninsula cities) Tabasco,Futura Chiapas,Yucatán Peninsula 900-01-05 City),800- (Mexico (other Flecha Amarilla ETN Estrella Roja Estrella deOro Estrella Blanca Elite Chihuahuenses Blancos Autovías Autotransportes AU ADO GL ADO ABC Main Company Telephone MEXICANWebsite BUSCOMPANIES regions/destinations - t r ETN RUD • u AROUND••Bus GETTING a n s p o r t a t i o n

. Águila i n d d

9 x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x x 9 2 800-849-90-04 N/A Mexico City, northern &western central City,northern Mexico City,Cuernavaca,Pacific Mexico coast www.estrellablanca.com.mx 800-507-55-00 Pacific City,centralMexico, Mexico www.estrellablanca.com.mx &westerncentral City,northern Mexico 800-507-55-00 N/A 800-849-90-04 City,Puebla Mexico www.etn.com.mx 800-800-03-86 www.estrellaroja.com.mx 800-712-22-84 Zihuatanejo City,Michoacán, Mexico City,Cuernavaca,Taxco, Mexico Pacific www.autobus.com.mx/edo 55-5549-8520 City,Gulfcoast,Pacific Mexico coast www.estrellablanca.com.mx 800-507-55-00 Pacific City,centralMexico, Mexico www.estrellablanca.com.mx 800-507-55-00 SouthernBajaCalifornia Pacific City,centralMexico, Mexico www.estrellablanca.com.mx 800-507-55-00 City,Gulfcoast Mexico www.estrellablanca.com.mx 800-507-55-00 City,Puebla, Gulfcoast, Mexico N/A 55-5567-4550 www.abc.com.mx 612-122-78/98 City,Puebla, Gulfcoast, Mexico www.ado.com.mx 800-702-80-00 City,Puebla, Mexico Gulfcoast,Oaxaca, www.adogl.com.mx 800-702-80-00 Baja California www.ado.com.mx 800-702-80-00 664-621-24-24 www.abc.com.mx 80-00; www.ticketbus.com.mx) much delay.Forlonger trips,orroutes with terminal, buyaticket andheadoutwithout routes, you canusuallyjustgotothebus For tripsof uptofourorfive hours onbusy Reservations dprue time. departure more thananhourortwo before the listed many buscompaniesifyoureturn yourticket refunds of 80%to100%are available from cities andtowns. telephone, oratanyof in44 itsmanyoffices of Mexico. Youcanbookviatheinternet or on routes inthecenter, southandsoutheast formanybuscompanies,chiefly reservations to give a bumpier ride. which iswhere thetoilets are andalsotends your ticket. Trytoavoid thebackof thebus, whenyoubuy yourseat allow youtoselect nies have computerized ticket systems that in advance. Deluxe and1st-classbuscompa- buyaticket adayormoreinfrequent service, If youpayforabusticket incash,cash Ticketbus

(in Mexico City (in Mexico provides tickets and x 55-5133-2424, 800-702- lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:43 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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8 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:43 PM exico City, northern central highlands, Motorcycling in Mexico is not for the is not for the Motorcycling in Mexico for information on the paperwork p986 See use a lot of gasoline. A sedan with a trunk A sedan gasoline. a trunk with use a lot of than a station storage safer (boot) provides To drive a motor vehicle in Mexico, you you in Mexico, a motor vehicle To drive licenseneed from your a valid driver’s home country. quickly and inexpensively, but it still pays but it still pays quickly and inexpensively, parts as you can man- as many spare to take useful). Tires very are fuel filters (spare age sus- and absorbers shock (including spare), be in good condition. For pension should the to immobilize something security, have a kill steering wheel,consider getting and switch installed. Roads and trafficfainthearted. can be rough, hard to come by. and parts and mechanics The parts you’ll most easily find will be for bikes. Suzuki Honda and Kawasaki, Mexico. into for bringing a vehicle required Driver’s License wagon or hatchback. Mexican mechanics are are mechanics Mexican wagon or hatchback. can be done and most repairs resourceful, 800-890-90-90 www.gruposenda.com 55-5587-5310 N/A Mexico City, northeast, Potosí San Luis 800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx Mexico City, central Mexico, northeast 800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx coast, Mexico City, Guadalajara, Pacific 800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx Mexico City, central Mexico, north, 800-702-80-00 www.uno.com.mx coast, Mexico City, Guadalajara, Pacific Gulf coast, Oaxaca, Mexico City, Puebla, 55-5567-4550 N/A 800-702-80-00 www.ado.com.mx www.odm.com.mx 800-765-66-36 Oaxaca, Chiapas Mexico City, Puebla, M 800-507-55-00 www.estrellablanca.com.mx Mexico City, central Mexico, northeast 800-849-90-04 Mexico City, northern & western central N/A 800-624-03-60 www.pullman.com.mx 668-812-57-49 N/A Mexico City, Cuernavaca, Cuautla Mexico City, northern & western central Mexico City, Guadalajara, Puerto 3 9 x x x x x x x x x x x x x 9

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a r t - Transportes Pacífico del Transportes Frontera Transportes Norte Sonora de Turistar UNO partNote: many bus lines are ticket of multiline groups, which may share ADO, ADO GL, AU, desks at bus stations. Gacela, all part Oriente, and UNO are Chihuahuenses,OCC Blanca, Futura, of the ADO group. Blancos, Elite, Estrella Transportes Frontera, Transportes Norte all part are Blanca. de Sonora and Turistar of Grupo Estrella northwest northwest coast Pacific Peninsula Yucatán Chiapas, Tabasco, Oriente Guadalajara,Tepic central north, northeast, Colima, Company Telephone Website Main regions/destinations Website Telephone Company Main Herradura de Plata MEXICAN BUS COMPANIES (CONTINUED) BUS COMPANIES MEXICAN OCC Ómnibus de México Primera Plus de Morelos Pullman TAP Transportes del highlands (Ómnibus Cristóbal Colón) coast highlands, Pacific northwest Vallarta, 1 other cumbersome luggage other cumbersome panion. track the beaten off to get like surfboards, diving equipment or have com- with at least one will be traveling time plenty of have 1 - o

big cars are unwieldy on narrow roads and unwieldy on narrow roads and are big cars serves patience and access to extra cash of car to take of Good makes for emergencies. Nissan, Chrysler, Volkswagen, are to Mexico plants have General and Ford, which Motors in most big towns. Very and dealers in Mexico Drivers should know at least a little Spanish at least a little Spanish should know Drivers re- knowledge, basic mechanical and have Bring Your Own Vehicle Bring Your Own Vehicle is most useful for Bringing a car to Mexico who: travelers Driving in Mexico is not as easy as it is north Driving in Mexico expensive, more are and rentals the border, of you maximum flexi- gives a vehicle but having and freedom. bility CAR & MOTORCYCLE CAR & MOTORCYCLE lonelyplanet.com

c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 993 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 994 e x TRANSPORTATION i c gallon), andPremium about M$8.75.Diesel cost aboutM$7perliter (US$2.40perUS unleaded. Atthetimeof research, Magna Sin and Premium, equivalenttoUSsuper roughly equivalenttoUSregularroughly unleaded, leaded). There are twovarieties:Magna Sin, you shouldfillupwhenever you can. major inremote roads.Nevertheless, areas areand thestations pretty commononmost smallones,havetowns, even aPemex station, poly, Pemex (Petróleos Mexicanos). Most Mexico issoldbythegovernment’s mono- All Gas (Petrol) 994 Mexican insurancecoverage istheonlyreal ormonths.This couldtake weeks Adequate tion tothevictimsandpaymentof anyfines. untilyouguarantee restitu-may bedetained for anaccidentcausinginjuryordeath,you Ifyouare toblameponsibility isassessed. and have yourvehicle impoundedwhileres- involved inanaccident,youcanbejailed out Mexican liabilityinsurance. Ifyouare It isvery foolish todriveInsurance inMexico with- should have no problems. their oilandfilter about 3500km,they every Sin’ withlesssulfur. drivers Ifdiesel change buttherecontent thanUSdiesel, isa‘Diesel Regular Mexican sulfur hasahigher diesel fuel iswidelyavailable ataroundM$6perliter. appreciate atipof M$2 to M$5). o - 1 The gasoline on sale isall The gasolineonsale Gas stations haveGas stations pumpattendants (who 1 24-hour hotline your carhasproblems,youcancall the cost. Ifyouare nearatelephone when gasoline andoilare providedparts, at isfree;assistance ifnecessary.Service and oil,arrangetowingother minor repairs, changetires, provide fuel fortouristsintrouble. Theylooking make the countrydailyduringdaylighthours 60,000km ofmajorhighwaysthroughout uniforms andgreen trucks,whopatrol Angels) –bilingualmechanicsingreen tains anetworkof The main- Mexican tourismministry,Sectur, THE GREENANGELS .mx/wb2/sectur/sect_9454_rutas_carreteras. of theroadstheypatrolatwww.sectur.gob - t gasolina r ETN RUD • a oocce AROUND••Car&Motorcycle GETTING a n s p o r t a t (gasoline) and diesel fuelin (gasoline)anddiesel i o n . i n d d

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9 Ángeles Verdes 9 4 078) . There’s amap sin plomo (Green (un- you’re aged 21to24youmayhave topay a quired tobeatleast21(sometimes25,orif and major credit card,andare usuallyre- isOK),passport (yourhomelicense cense in Mexico, andisavailable frominternet It’s soldatbookstores andsomenewsstands México atlas such as GuíaRoji’s cent roadmapsare AMexican essential. road Mexican signpostingcan bepoor,andde- is undertheinfluenceof alcohol or drugs. the full coverage cost. Liability-only insurancecostsaroundhalf it’s often cheaper toget anannualpolicy. US$10,000; forperiodslonger thantwoweeks day forfullcoverage onacarworthunder others. than open 24hours aday.Somedealsare better and Matamoros, there are insuranceoffices Ciudad Juárez, Reynosa Laredo, Nuevo to Tijuana, Mexicali, Nogales,Agua Prieta, At thebusierbordercrossings,such asthose advertising Mexican selling offices policies. billboards border fromtheUSyouwillsee sold inUSbordertowns;asyouapproach the motor insurance. Mexican insuranceisalso www.aaa.com) and the toMexicanceptable officialdom. Sanborn’s ifitprovidespolicy, even coverage, isnotac- motor insurance you pay tax andinsurancecoststotherentalyou paytax agreement. Inaddition tothebasicrental rate, surcharge). Readthesmallprint of therental terminals. bus airports, manybighotels andsometimesat or inperson andpickupcars atcityoffices, organize. Youcanbookbyinternet, telephone butisnothardtoor Europeanstandards, Auto rental inMexico isexpensive byUS Rental regional road maps. are Alsouseful Quimerapublisher’s highways. is published annuallyandincludesmostnew foralittlemore.booksellers Anewedition Maps lease oflease the driver. restitution willbepaid,andexpedite re- protection: itisregarded that asaguarantee Insurance isconsidered invalidifthedriver Short-term insuranceisabout US$15a Mexican lawrecognizes onlyMexican Renters mustprovide avaliddriver’s li- (M$175)isaworthwhileinvestment. American Automobile Association Automobile American are worthlookingintoforMexico (seguro), PorLasCarreteras de so a US or Canadian soaUSorCanadian lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:44 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0

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topes 8 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:45:44 PM (Stop) signs, Alto signs give you a warning you a warning signs give (parking lot). These usually cost ‘Vibradores’ or There is always the chance that you will that you will is always the chance There Driving on a dark night is best avoided a dark nightDriving on avoided is best on rural roads, In towns and cities and debris and deep potholes taillights without vehicles highway lightinglack of poor signage of road and lane closures road and lane of poor signage dogs on the roads lots of

wish to make a complaint head for a state a complaint head for a state wish to make tourist office. CITY PARKING It’s not usually a good idea to park on the doesn’t If your hotel have overnight. street parking, it’s best to find a commercial cionamiento and M$10 to M$15 around M$50 overnight the day. per hour during HAZARDS MOTORCYCLE them roads make Certain Mexican aspects of motorcyclists: particularly hazardous for ‘Tope’ about most speed the deadly ones are bumps: signs – and if you the ones with no warning hit them at any speed, you and your car will a shock. quite get traffic police for by Mexican be pulled over an imaginary infraction. If this happens, stay and don’t be in a hurry. You calm and polite and acting dumb to pay a bribe, don’t have Spanish may even-and not understanding up. You can also the cop give tually make ask to see documentation the law you about ask for the officer’s supposedly broken, have identification, ask to speak to a superior, and/ number, the officer’s name, badge or note number and department (federal, vehicle any traffic fines at state or municipal). Pay then if you a receipt, a police station and get traffic is not heavy. Mexicans on the whole on the whole traffic Mexicans not heavy. is and sensibly as cautiously people as drive Trafficsurfaces and density, poor anywhere. (potholes, speed hazards bumps, frequent all help to keep children) animals, bicycles, speeds down. and rocks, pedestrians vehicles, since unlit common. Hijacks the roads are animals on do occur. and robberies be especially wary of expect, and missing you’d not where often are one can cost you in traffic fines or car damage. also used to slow trafficSpeed bumps are on highwaysthrough that pass built-up areas. (speedholes in the road. They bumps) and 5 9 9

d d n i GETTING AROUND •• Car & Motorcycle . n o i t 800-201-20-84; www.europcar.com.mx) 800-716-66-25; www.nationalcar.com.mx) a 800-700-17-00; www.budget.com.mx) t 55-5207-1100; www.thrifty.com.mx) r 800-849-80-01; www.alamo.com) 998-886-02-22; www.dollar.com) 800-709-50-00; www.hertz.com) o x x p ( 800-288-88-88; www.avis.com.mx) ( x s x x ( x n ( x ( ( a ( r x t - ( 1 Here’s contact information (with Mexican contact information (with Mexican Here’s Most agencies offer a choice between a between a choice a offer Most agencies 1 - o roads are serviceableroads are fast when and fairly Road Conditions Road Conditions highways, evensome toll Mexican Many US, not up to the standards of highways, are Canadian the main or European ones. Still, ance at all. Note that a locally acquired that a locally acquired ance at all. Note motorcycle license valid under some is not travel-insurance policies. rent in a few tourist centers. You’re usu- You’re centers. tourist in a few rent license and a driver’s to have ally required card. It’s advisable to look particu- credit into insurance arrangements larly carefully any insur- do not offer some renters here: National Thrifty to available are or scooters Motorbikes Budget Dollar Europcar Hertz per kilometer. firms: for some major phone numbers) Alamo Avis avoiding airport pickups and drop-offs, for for airport pickups and drop-offs, avoiding 10% can be added to your total check. which for drop-off in another The extra charge M$4 is usually about city, when available, M$600 a day including unlimited kilo meters, meters, kilo M$600 a day including unlimited by the week insurance and tax.If you rent cost can come down or month, the per-day also cut costs by by 20% to 40%. You can per-kilometer deal or unlimited kilometers. kilometers. deal or unlimited per-kilometer than not be cheaper Local firms may or may ones. In most places the big international costs M$500 to car available the cheapest they have met their obligations to third par- met their obligations they have insurance ties. The complimentary car-rental cards does not with some US credit offered Mexico. cover usually the insurance might not be valid for travel on on mightthe insurance for travel not be valid plenty rough have tracks. It’s best to country law permits Mexican liability coverage: of an accident until after drivers the jailing of some internet bookings: you’ll usually have have you’ll usually bookings: some internet taking insurance liability-only the option of insur- exactly what the Ask at a lower rate. insur- theft and damage cover: ance options costs, or of a percentage cover ance may only company. Note: comprehensive insurance insurance comprehensive Note: company. in cost quoted the basic double can almost lonelyplanet.com c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 995 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 996 e x TRANSPORTATION i c 120km per hour on open highways (less120km perhouronopenhighways Mexico hasmore than6000kmof autopistas TOLL ROADS 996 ally leaving they have whenever afullload some towns,usu- between shuttle services Suburbans,operatevans, such asChevrolet and more passenger-carrying comfortable tive) (combis) Volkswagen taxis, minibuses vide alternatives tobuses. In someareas avarietyof small vehicles pro- day each (see week p200 ). most vehicles fromthecity’sroadsonone street. two-way street; ifthearrowpointsbothways,it’sa dicate thedirection of onthecross traffic one meansyoudon’t.Thewhite arrowsin- facing youmeanshave priority;ared whitecontaining arrows.Ablackrectangle dicated bythinblackandred rectangles Priority atsomestreet intersections isin- to demand‘fines’payableon the spot. signswillavoid givingpoliceexcuses traffic rear. rulesand limits,traffic Obeyingspeed inthe five mustbestrappedintosafety seats all occupantsof acar,andchildren under beltsare obligatoryfor towns andcities.Seat 30kmand50kmperhourinand between built-upareas), pass through when highways Drive sideof ontheright-hand theroad. Ruta.’ Tu is available atwww.sct.gob.mx: clickon‘Traza than thealternative free roads. ally inmuch better condition andalotquicker (toll roads),usuallyfour-lane. Theyare gener- average aboutM$1perkm.Tollinformation Ra Rules Road COLECTIVOS &OTHER VEHICLES o - 1 Antipollution rulesinMexico Cityban One-way streets are theruleincities. limitsrange 80kmandSpeed between 1 remember thattheymightalsobeflashingleftbecauseare about toturnleft! for afollowingvehicle toovertake. Youshouldnever theirwordforit,ofcourse–and take driver touchedtheirswitchbymistake. fewmay getroundthenext bendsandfindthere’s nothingtoworryabout.Maybetheother a rockorcowintheroad–byflashofheadlightshazard-warninglights. courseyou Of not immediately understand–andneedtobetreated withcautioninanycase. Mexican drivers have acoupleofsignalingconventions thatdrivers fromothercountriesmay HELPFUL (?)SIGNALS - t r ETN RUD • oetvs&OhrVhce Vehicles &Other AROUND••Colectivos GETTING Slow-moving vehicles often isclear flashtheirleftindicatorstoindicate thattheroadahead Drivers –apolicecheckpoint,tailback, often warneachotherofhazardsontheroadahead a n s p o r t a t i o n . i n d d

9 9 6 Colectivo Cuotas (collec- (tolls) go. Awomantraveling should alonecertainly let someoneknowwhere theyare planningto hitch willbesafer iftheytravel inpairs and risk.Peopletially serious to whodochoose thattheyarestand asmallbutpoten- taking Travelers whodecidetohitch shouldunder- try intheworld,andisnotrecommended. Hitchhiking entirely isnever safe inanycoun- HITCHHIKING remember! to machetes andanimalsisalwaysanexperience dozen the backof alurching truckwithacoupleof similar to2nd-classbusfares. in Standing (pickups) and primitive are passenger-carrying towns.More nearby short routes between usuallyrunning witharound25seats, buses ros’ are small,usuallyfairlynew,2nd-class or‘mic- Microbuses than 1st-classbuses. pr day. per townsandcitiesfor M$100 toM$150 several biking enthusiasts.Youcanrent bikes in should enjoyit.Even Mexico Cityhasits out theless traffic-infested routes andyou tomake enough cyclinganoption.Seek Most Mexican townsandcitiesare flat Bicycle LOCAL TRANSPORTATION something equivalenttothe bus fare. commercial vehicle, youshould offer topay, you mayget therideforfree. Ifitisaworkor driver isanothertouristoraprivate motorist, to possibledangers wherever youare. Ifthe bybus.Alwaysbealert places poorlyserved way of getting tosomeoff-the-beaten-track alone is not advisable. not hitchhike inMexico, twowomen andeven of passengers. Fares are typicallyalittleless However, hitchingHowever, isnotanuncommon campesinos camiones (landworkers) andtheir (trucks)withfares lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:45 PM 1 / camionetas 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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Guanajuato Acapulco Tuxtla Gutiérrez Ciudad Juárez Matamoros Nogales Monterrey Mexico City San LuisPotosí Mazatlán Hermosillo Veracruz Cancún Guadalajara Villahermosa Morelia Mérida Tijuana Tapachula Puebla Oaxaca 997

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Zacatecas 1373 1007 1620 2425 1762 190 728 1075 1853 447 469 605 1937 619 797 1576 312 320 1258 2254 1000

Villahermosa 492 284 3616 636 1183 645 609 3004 1070 1482 768 564 1810 1455 2727 1133 1310 2631 881 1126

Veracruz Veracruz 671 3250 813 817 279 395 2638 704 990 402 1056 1444 963 2361 767 944 2265 1373 760

Tuxtla Gutiérrez Tuxtla 3863 412 1430 892 545 3251 1317 1661 1015 829 2054 1634 2974 1380 1557 2878 1146 967

Tijuana 4005 2615 2971 3318 820 2608 2409 2848 4180 1806 2737 889 2583 2306 1312 4497 3237

Tapachula 1157 1062 2199 1776 3116 1522 1699 3020 1376 1109 1572 1034 687 3393 1459 1802

San Luis Potosí Potosí Luis San 538 885 2043 395 514 415 1747 809 559 1766 215 340 1448 2064 810

Puebla 347 2359 425 1056 123 1209 1165 1077 2082 488 665 1986 1526 481

Oaxaca 2706 772 1403 470 1173 1512 1358 2429 835 1012 2333 1490 828

Nogales 1996 1797 2236 3568 1194 2125 277 1971 1694 620 3885 2625

Morelia 913 302 1634 802 954 1719 180 302 1705 1951 697

Monterrey 933 2046 928 328 1520 729 789 1202 2363 1328

Mexico City Mexico 1332 1042 975 1959 365 542 1863 1649 395

Mérida 1690 2374 2019 3291 1697 1874 3195 317

Mazatlán Mazatlán 1250 917 777 500 1347 2891 1431

Matamoros 1848 774 1117 1530 2336 1370

Hermosillo Hermosillo 1417 769 3608 2348 1694 7 9 9

Guanajuato 1570 2014 760 277 d d

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i Ciudad Juárez Ciudad 2258 3512 t a t r

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r t ROAD DISTANCES (km) DISTANCES ROAD - 1 1 - o lonelyplanet.com c i x e mmexico-11-transportation.indd 997 mmexico-11-transportation.indd 998 e x TRANSPORTATION i c rarely more thanM$5.Inmanycities,fleets frequently andare cheap. Fares incitiesare out tonearbytownsandvillages. Theyrun often thecheapest waytoget aroundcitiesand knownas Generally Bus a public service. or aroundM$10forfive to10minutes ifit’s you have tocharter thewholeboat(haggle!), widely: anaverage isaroundM$10aminute if fast outboard across alake orlagoon.Thecraftare usually by boattoanoutlyingbeach, alongariver or Here andthere youmayfindyourself traveling Boat 998 world’s third-busiest subway. it’sthe weekday, four millionpeopleevery byover andused around. With175stations is aquick,cheap wayof anduseful getting way) systems. Mexico City’s,inparticular, all have metro(subway,underground rail- Mexico City,Guadalajara andMonterrey Metro mean a city bus. northern bordertowns,‘pesero’ bus fare) dependsonhowfaryougo. Insome of thetripandfare thana (alittlehigher you wanttogo. Usually, youpayattheend and wave yourhand.Tell thedriver where along theirroute: tostopone,gothecurb pick youupordropoffonanycorner andquicker Theywill than taxis thanbuses. displayed onthewindshield.They’re cheaper running alongfixed urbanroutes usually andabus, ataxi tion assomethingbetween areThese allnamesforvehicles thatfunc- Colectivo, Combi,Minibus&Pesero corner. street can holdyourhandouttostoponeatany insomeplacesyou(bus stops),though noisy, dirtyandcrowded older buses. of small,modern o - 1 Buses usuallyhaltonlyatfixedBuses 1 - t r ETN RUD • ri AROUND••Train GETTING a n s p o r t a t i o n lanchas . i n d microbuses d

camiones, 9 9 (launches). Fares vary 8 have replaced the local buses are localbuses

is used to is used paradas

lights oflights traveling inMexico. Buttheremain- isoneof thehigh- Railway, Copper Canyon Chihuahua ( p341 ), knowninEnglishasthe Pacífico LosMochis thatrunsbetween and FerrocarrilThe spectacular Chihuahuaal TRAIN cheap rental car–aroundM$500 or M$600. ing generally costssomethingsimilartoa around one-quarter of thenormal cab fare. where alongthatroute. Fares perperson are passengerspicking upordroppingoff any- often fromonetownorvillage toanother,and erate ona on the street. fares are thanyoucouldget usuallyhigher This saves andmajor haggling rip-offs, but hand ittothedriver instead of paying cash. a special a fixed-price ticket toyourdestinationfrom a system of authorizedticket-taxis: youbuy a bit of haggling). of theridebefore getting in(thismayinvolve have doesn’t ameter,taxi theprice establish (‘¿Funciona eltaxímetro?’) meter, you canaskthedriver ifit’sworking crimeinMexicoon taxi hasa City.)Ifataxi defined centralareas. (See p141 forawarning cities there’s afixed rate forjourneyswithin around M$10perkilometer, andinsome surprisingly economical.Cityridescost Taxis are commonintownsandcities, Taxi (e p543). (see and thetequila-distilling townof Amatitán express.com.mx) the latter groupisthe Most prominentamong excursion services. of nointerest totravelers orare specialtourist remaining operate onroutes thatareservices were privatized inthe1990s.Thevery few toexistaftereffectively therailroads ceased der of Mexico’s regular trainsystem passenger In some(usuallyrural)areas, op- sometaxis Renting a taxi for a day’s out-of-town out- foraday’sout-of-town Renting ataxi Some airportsandbigbusterminals have taquilla colectivo running between Guadalajara runningbetween (ticket window)andthen basis, following set routes, basis,followingset Tequila Express . Ifit’snot,orifthe lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:45:46 PM 1 / 1 (www.tequila 2

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8 0 . Bureau of 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:46:49 PM (www.travel.state.gov) A number of vaccines are recommended; recommended; vaccines are A number of You may prefer a policy that pays doctors or that pays doctors a policy You may prefer or aspirin abrasions cuts and reactions) rashes) ivy and other allergic gauze, gauze rolls bandages, pins, tweezers safety scissors, acetaminophen/paracetamol (Tylenol) or paper tape adhesive ointment (eg Bactroban) antibacterial for antibiotics loperamide) drugs (eg antidiarrheal ibuprofen) drugs (eg anti-inflammatory antihistamines and allergic fever (for hay (for poison or cortisone cream steroid MEDICAL CHECKLIST

mandatory for countries that require proof of of proof mandatory for countries that require upon entry, but it’s a vaccination yellow fever you travel. good idea to carry it wherever see the table on the next page. Some policies offer different medical-expense different Some policies offer for coun- chiefly options; the higher ones are extremely have as the USA, which tries such is a wide variety of high medical costs. There small print. the so check policies available, RECOMMENDED VACCINATIONS Since most vaccines don’t produce immunity be given, until at least two weeks they’re after to eight to visit a physician four weeks sure doctor for an in- your Ask departure. before (other- vaccination of certificate ternational wise will known as the yellow booklet), which This is received. list all the vaccinations you’ve medical insurance or national health systems systems or national health medical insurance includes most – which Mexico to don’t extend is advisable. policy – a travel non-Americans information can find links to US travelers insurance on medical evacuation and travel the of page companies on the Mexico Consular Affairs website you to rather than requiring hospitals directly, to If you have later. pay on the spot and claim all documentation. keep Some poli- claim later, in your to a center cies ask you to call collect your an assessment of home country, where Check that the policy cov- problem is made. flight home. ambulances or an emergency ers

Dr David Goldberg 9 9 9

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e h - 1 Medical Checklist 999 Internet Resources Internet Reading Further In Transit (Dvt) Thrombosis Deep Vein Jet Lag & Motion Sickness In Mexico Care & Cost of Health Availability Diseases Infectious 1000 1000 Diarrhea Travelers’ Treatment 1001 Environmental Hazards & 1000 1000 Women & Pregnant Children 1004 1000 1006 1001 1001 1004 Before You Go Before 999 Insurance Recommended Vaccinations 999 999 1 - o be covered for in Mexico. For people whose for in Mexico. be covered US health-insurance policies stay in effect (at abroad, time) if you travel least for a limited exactly what you’ll but it’s worth checking Mexican medical treatment is generally in- is generally medical treatment Mexican for common diseasesexpensive minor and but if you suffer some serious treatment, medical problem, you may want to find a pri- Travel hospitalvate or fly out for treatment. the costs. Some insurance can typically cover or needles, be sure to have a physician’s letter a physician’s letter to have or needles, be sure medical necessity. documenting their INSURANCE clearly labeled. A signed, dated letter from letter clearly labeled. A signed, dated your physician describing all medical conditions and medications, including generic If carrying syringes names, is also a good idea. BEFORE YOU GO BEFORE YOU GO in their original containers, Bring medications ing, but they can ruin your trip. Besides getting the proper vaccinations, it’s important that you and exercisebring along a good insect repellent and drink. in what you eat care great can also be a prob- infections -borne mosquito threaten- these not life illnesseslem. Most of are

CONTENTS H e a l t h chiefly about food-borne diseases, food-borne though about chiefly Travelers to Mexico need to be concerned to Mexico Travelers c i x e mmexico-11-health.indd 999 mmexico-11-health.indd 1000 e x HEALTH i c

1000 Planet’s Planet. Ifyou’re traveling with children, Lonely Central &South America, For furtherinformation,see FURTHER READING States United UK Canada Australia travel healthwebsites before departure: is available free online. (www.who.int/ith/) a superbbook, The WorldHealth Organization publishes countryandisupdatedtions forevery daily. provides complete travel healthrecommenda- internet. There isawealthof travel healthadviceonthe INTERNET RESOURCES

Auerbach, are other valuable resources. al, and The o - 1 syringes andsterile needles (forwateriodine tablets purification) oral rehydration salts sunblock sprayfor insect permethrin-containing DEET-containing repellent insect pocket knife thermometer www.doh.gov.uk/traveladvice/ clothing, tents and bed nets It’s alsoagoodideatoconsultgovernment 1 h’ehdol ese reactions fever; rash;jointpains;allergic headaches;bodyaches fever; mildcaseofchickenpox fever low-grade chickenpox headaches;bodyaches site soreness atinjection 2doses,1monthapart vaccination who’vehadonly1measles 1dose had travelerswho’venever otherday every chickenpox 1doselasts10years 1956 travelersbornafter 6-12monthslater site; soreness atinjection medical maynothaveaccessto hadboosterwithin10years alltravelerswhohaven’t caremeasles effects Side 3dosesover3-4weekperiod diphtheria withanimalsand contact abdominalpain;nausea;rash tetanus- 4capsulesbymouth,1taken site; soreness atinjection site; soreness atinjection travelerswhomayhave population withthelocal closecontact 3dosesover6-monthperiod booster 1dosebefore trip; rabies long-termtravelersin Dosage alltravelers hepatitis B typhoid alltravelers for Recommended hepatitis A Vaccine - h ABC of Healthy Travel, e a NTAST • epVi hobss(V) IN TRANSIT••DeepVein Thrombosis(DVT) http://www.hc-sc.gc.ca l t Medicine forthe Outdoors, www.dfat.gov.au/travel/ h Travel with Children . MD Travel Health MD Travel i n d d www.cdc.gov/travel/

, which annuallyand isrevised 1 0 International Travel andHealth Travel International 0 0 (www.mdtravelhealth.com) also fromLonely by EWalker et Healthy Travel may be useful. may beuseful. by Paul S

mdcl attention. medical of symptomsshould immediately these seek and breathing Travelers difficulties. withany travels chest tothelungs,itmaycause pain always onjustoneside. Whenabloodclot pain of thefoot,ankleorcalf,usuallybutnot complications. life-threatening vessels tothelungs,where theycouldcause may break off andtravel theblood through blood clotsare reabsorbed some uneventfully, thegreaterthe flight, most therisk.Though ofcause prolonged immobility.Thelonger chieflythrombosis) duringplaneflights, be- veinBlood clotsmayforminthelegs(deep DEEP VEINTHROMBOSIS(DVT) IN TRANSIT (for meals, sleep etc)assoon (for meals,sleep as possible. andreadjustnatural sunlight your schedule meals.Uponarrival, geting light exposure to ing plentyof fluids(nonalcoholic) andeat- Toavoid ornausea. malaise jetlag, trydrink- five timezones,resulting ininsomnia,fatigue, Jet lagiscommonwhencrossingmore than JET LAG&MOTIONSICKNESS tobacco. and ting), drinkplentyof fluids,andavoid alcohol muscles (iecontractthelegwhilesit- perform isometriccompressions of theleg youshould walkaboutlong flights thecabin, To prevent on of thedevelopment DVT The chief isswellingor symptomof DVT lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:46:52 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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8 1001 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:46:52 PM Protecting yourself against mosquito bites yourself against mosquito bites Protecting For Mexico, the first-choice malaria pill is the first-choice For Mexico, If you develop a fever after returning home, returning after If you develop a fever for not recommended pills are Malaria If it’s possible that you may not have access If it’s possible that you may not have Taking malaria pills is strongly recom- malaria pills is strongly Taking drums, plastic containers and discarded tires. and discarded tires. drums, plastic containers dengue is especially common in result, a As urban environments. densely populated, see a physician, as malaria symptoms may not for months. occur Gulf Coasts. Dengue Fever found in most is a viral infection Dengue fever in 2007 resulted An outbreak Mexico. parts of in at least 67,000 cases. Dengue is transmit- by aedes mosquitoes, usually bite ted which found close usually during the day and are They indoors. to human habitations, often contain- primarily in artificial water breed metal cans, cisterns, barrels, as jars, such ers, effects are typically mild and may include mild and may include typically effects are nausea, headache, abdominal discomfort, Severe vision or itching. blurred dizziness, uncommon. are reactions is just as important as taking malaria pills, 100% effective. since no pills are bring along while traveling, to medical care self-treatment,additional pills for emergency a if you can’t reach you should take which doctor and develop symptoms that suggest One as high spiking fevers. malaria, such Malarone four tablets of option is to take days. If you start self-once daily for three medication, you should try to see a doctor at possible opportunity. the earliest dusk and dawn. The main symptom is high main symptom dawn. The dusk and may be accompanied which fevers, spiking weak- body aches, headache, sweats, by chills, Severe cases may diarrhea. vomiting or ness, central nervous the involve lead to and system and death. coma confusion, seizures, states in the visiting rural areas mended when Oaxaca, Sinaloa, Nayarit, Tabasco Chiapas, of between and Quintana Roo, and for an area and 106° and 110° 24° and 28° north latitude the includes parts of west longitude, which Durango. and Sonora, Chihuahua of states once weekly taken in a dosage chloroquine, 500mg, starting one to two weeksof before througharrival and continuing the trip and Chloroquine departure. for four weeks after Side and highlyeffective. inexpensive is safe, the major resorts along the Pacific and and along the Pacific resorts the major 1 0 Care & Cost of Health IN MEXICO •• Availability 0 1

http://ciudadjuarez.usconsulate.gov/phy d d www.usembassy-mexico.gov/guadalajara n i . h t l http://nogales.usconsulate.gov/doctors.html http://merida.usconsulate.gov/merida/doctorlist a e h - 1 Pharmacies are identified by a green cross identified by a green are Pharmacies Adequate medical care is available in other is available medical care Adequate Antihistamines such as dimenhydrinate Antihistamines as dimenhydrinate such 1 - o sicians-and-dentists.html mitted by mosquito bites, usually between usually by mosquito bites, mitted INFECTIOUS DISEASES INFECTIOUS DISEASES Malaria in every country in Central occurs Malaria It’s trans- Mexico. America, including parts of look in the local newspaper, ask your hotel look in the local newspaper, ask your hotel a local the front door of or check concierge, a post the name of will often pharmacy, which the night. nearby pharmacy that is open for Guadalajara, Benavides and Farmacia Fenix. Fenix. Benavides and Farmacia Guadalajara, in a prescription Some medications requiring without the US may be dispensed in Mexico you can pharmacy, To find an after-hours one. and the pharmacists well trained. Reliable and the pharmacists well trained. Reliable include Sanborns, Farmacia pharmacy chains want to be evacuated to a country with state- Since this may cost of-the-art medical care. you have be sure dollars, thousands of of tens you depart. this before insurance to cover well supplied sign. Most are and a ‘Farmacia’ Many doctors and hospitals expect payment doctors Many travel you have whether of in cash, regardless If you develop a medical health insurance. you’ll probably threatening, problem that’s life Merida Nogales Ciudad Juarez Guadalajara major cities, but facilities in rural areas may be areas cities, but facilities in rural major pro- consulate the US In many areas, limited. to local physicians vides an online directory the following: and hospitals, as such There are a number of first-rate hospitals in first-rate a number of are There facili- private ). In general, p131 City ( Mexico cost, though at greater care, better ties offer public hospitals. than IN MEXICO IN MEXICO OF HEALTH AVAILABILITY & COST CARE Bonine) are usually the first choice for treat- choice the first usually Bonine) are effectsickness. Their main side ing motion is is ginger, alternative An herbal drowsiness. some people. for a charm works like which (Dramamine) and meclizine (Antivert, (Antivert, meclizine and (Dramamine) lonelyplanet.com /GeDoctors.htm .html c i x e mmexico-11-health.indd 1001 mmexico-11-health.indd 1002 e x HEALTH i c insect protection measuresinsect (see p1005 ). is novaccine. Thecornerstone of prevention is intravenous fluidsandsupportive care. There mayrequire cases Severe for hospitalization (Tylenol)anddrinkplentyofracetamol fluids. to take analgesics such asacetaminophen/pa- riencing theirsecond dengue infection. occur inchildren under age 15whoare expe- inafeweventfully usually cases days.Severe resolve butmostcases uncomfortable, un- lowed byarash.Thebodyaches maybequite andvomiting,oftenheadaches, nausea fol- including fever, muscleaches, jointpains, 1002 for transfusionsor injections is expected. treatments whileabroad, especiallyifaneed orother formedical, dental a possibleneed or withthelocalinhabitants contact sexual is recommended foranyonewhoanticipates local population.Additionally,the vaccine areas orhave withthe physicalcontact close than sixmonths) whoexpect tolive inrural for long-term travelers (on theroadmore Thevaccineisrecommendedneedles. only bloodtransfusionsorcontaminated through or byexposure toinfected blood,generally isusuallyacquired contact bysexual disease nations.Unlikein developing hepatitisA,the that occurs worldwidebutismore common Like hepatitisA,Bisaliver infection Hepatitis B be given a gamma-globulin injection. children underage two,theyshouldinstead forpregnant established not been womenor thesafety of hepatitisAvaccinehas Because to Mexico nation. oranyotherdeveloping years. Youreally shouldget itbefore yougo six to12months later, itlastsforatleast10 effective.safe andhighly Ifyouget abooster severe liver damage. There is no treatment. itoccasionallycauses though uneventfully, resolveiting andabdominal pain.Mostcases vom- include fever, jaundice,nausea, malaise, nations.Symptomsmay indeveloping higher illness occurs worldwide,buttheincidenceis by direct withinfected contact persons. The itmayalsobeacquiredfood orice,though acquired byingestion of water, contaminated America. It’saviralliver infection usually Hepatitis Aoccurs Central throughout Hepatitis A o - 1 The vaccineforhepatitisAisextremely There’s notreatment fordenguefever except flu-likeDengue usuallycauses symptoms 1 - h e a NMXC • Ifciu iess Diseases ••Infectious IN MEXICO l t h . i n d d

1 0 0 2 occurs Othersymptoms invirtuallyallcases. two diseases can two diseases be indistinguishable. treat formalaria,sincethesymptomsof the for typhoidfever, toself- youmayalsoneed travelers’ diarrhea. ifyouself-treat However, which manytravelers carryfortreatment of floxacin (Cipro)orlevofloxacin (Levaquin), usually aquinoloneantibioticsuch ascipro- two. age vaccine isapproved inchildren foruse under but isalsoavailable asaninjection.Neither cine isagoodidea. It’susuallygiven orally, major hotels andrestaurants, atyphoidvac- delirium or (rarely) coma. nal perforation,intestinal confusion, bleeding, occur. Possible complicationsincludeintesti- nal pain.Eitherdiarrhea orconstipationmay dizziness, lossof andabdomi- appetite, nausea muscleaches,may includeheadache, malaise, Salmonella of foodorwater byaspeciesof contaminated America. Theinfection isacquired byingestion Typhoid fever Central iscommonthroughout Typhoid Fever protected. already tions inthe1980s,somanyyoungadultsare to thelistof routinechildhood immuniza- countriesaddedhepatitis Bvaccine Several fullimmunity. toestablish is necessary fective. of atotal However, three injections access toappropriate medical care ifneeded. traveling toremote areas nothave andmight consider askingforthevaccineif theyare atlowerriskforanimalbites should those getshould certainly thevaccine. Inaddition, handlers andspelunkers (cave explorers), riskforrabies, such athigh asanimal Those quires three injectionsandisquite expensive. species alsoremain sources of infection. related todogbites, butbatsand otherwild inMexicoAmerican countries.Mostcases are result occurs inallCentral inrabies.Rabies break intheskinwithinfected may saliva ofan animalbite, contamination any though animals andistypicallytransmitted through ofrabies virusiscarriedinthesaliva infected The spinal cordthatisalmostalwaysfatal. isaviralinfection ofRabies thebrainand Rabies The drugof choice fortyphoidfever is Unless youexpectto take allyourmealsin Rabies vaccine is safe, but a full series re- vaccineissafe, butafullseries Rabies Hepatitis ef- Bvaccineissafe andhighly knownas Salmonella typhiSalmonella lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:46:53 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 . Fever 8

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8 1003 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:46:53 PM aches and back pain. Complications can and back pain. Complications can aches include arthritis, hepatitis, meningitis and infection). valve endocarditis (heart foci in Central and South America. Valley foci in Central Valley and South America. dust from con- by inhaling is acquired fever taminated soil. It begins as a lung infection, pain and coughing, and chest causing fever, particularly the to other organs, may spread nervous re- Treatment skin and bone. system, high for prolonged antibiotics doses of quires always curative. periods and is not BRUCELLOSIS occurring in do- Brucellosis is an infection mestic and wild animals that may be trans- animal to humans through direct mitted unpasteur- contact, or by consumption of animals. ized dairy products from infected malaise, de- Symptoms may include fever, muscle headache, appetite, loss of pression, house, especially one made of mud, adobe or adobe mud, house, of especially one made yourself to protect you should be sure thatch, good insecticide. with a bed net and HISTOPLASMOSIS Histoplasmosis is caused fun- by a soil-based when often by inhalation, gus and is acquired soil has been Initial symptoms may disrupted. pain and dry cough, chills, chest include fever, sometimes leading to pneumonia. headache, described among was recently An outbreak hotel. Acapulco to an visitors COCCIDIOIDOMYCOSIS as ‘valley Coccidioidomycosis, also known that is restricted is a fungal infection fever,’ southwest, in the American to semiarid areas and limited in northern Mexico, nearby areas for mosquitoes ( p1005 ), except that netting that netting ), except p1005 for mosquitoes ( the 18 holes to (at least be finer mesh must linear inch). DISEASE CHAGAS’ Chagas’ disease trans- is a parasitic infection bugs), insects by triatomine mitted (reduviid walls and roofs in the inhabit crevices which substandard in South and Central housing of most cases occur in In Mexico, America. The triatomine southern and coastal areas. on human skin as it bites, insect lays its feces becomes infected usually at night. A person rubs the feces unknowingly when he or she wound or any other open sore. into the bite in travelers. Chagas’ disease rare is extremely However, if you sleep in a poorly constructed 3 0 IN MEXICO •• Infectious Diseases 0 1

d d n i . h t l a e h - 1 Only a handful of cases have been reported been reported cases have Only a handful of All animal bites and scratches must be must be and scratches bites All animal 1 - o sand flies, follow the same precautions as as sand flies, follow the same precautions Guerrero and Puebla. There is no vaccine vaccine is no There and Puebla. Guerrero yourself from To protect for leishmaniasis. causing slowly-growing ulcers over exposed over ulcers causing slowly-growing may the body, or (less commonly) parts of and disseminate to the bone marrow, liver spleen. The disease be particularly severe may The disseminated form is in those with HIV. to the chiefly and is limited in Mexico rare Balsas basin in the southern states of River jungles of all Centraljungles of American countries. The by sand is transmitted flies, which infection mosquitoes. about one-third the size of are Leishmaniasis to the skin, may be limited many months after exposure. after many months LEISHMANIASIS Leishmaniasis in the mountains and occurs symptom is intermittent, migratory swellings migratory symptom is intermittent, with under the skin, sometimes associated joint pains, muscle pains or gastrointestinal problems. The symptoms may not begin until Gnathostomiasis is a parasite acquired by by acquired Gnathostomiasis is a parasite fish, freshwater eating raw or undercooked lime-marinated a popular including ceviche, from fish salad. been Cases reported have The chief Mexico. Acapulco and other parts of vaccine is no longer recommended. vaccine is no longer Other Infections GNATHOSTOMIASIS such as ciprofloxacin and levofloxacin are are and levofloxacin as ciprofloxacin such also effective. Cholera years. the last few over in Mexico diarrhea, which may be so severe that it causes may be so severe which diarrhea, treat- dehydration. The key life-threatening solution. ment is drinking oral rehydration usually tetracycline also given, Antibiotics are biotics though quinolone anti or doxycycline, Cholera Cholera acquired infection is an intestinal Cholera food or contaminated of through ingestion watery The main symptom is profuse, water. whether or not further treatment is necessary further treatment whether or not (see p1006 ). lin. It’s effective, but must be given promptly. promptly. must be given but lin. It’s effective, vaccine. rabies don’t need Most travelers thoroughlypromptly and cleansed with large and local health water, soap and amounts of be contactedauthorities should to determine The treatment for a possibly rabid bite consists consists bite rabid for a possibly The treatment globu- rabies immune vaccine with rabies of lonelyplanet.com c i x e mmexico-11-health.indd 1003 mmexico-11-health.indd 1004 e x HEALTH i c TULAREMIA below andpracticegoodpersonal hygiene. ing fever, followtickprecautions asoutlined relatively well.Tominimizetheriskof relaps- when thefever subsidesandtheperson feels alternatingaches withperiods and cough, of fever, chills, headaches, bodyaches, muscle syphilis. Theillness ischaracterized byperiods and related Lymedisease thatcause tothose fever bybacteria thatare iscaused closely plateau regions incentralMexico. Relapsing reportedeither ticksorlice,hasbeen fromthe Tick-borne relapsing fever, transmitted by TICK-BORNE RELAPSINGFEVER 1004 for all sexual for allsexual encounters. sure condoms touse American countries. Be reported HIV/AIDS hasbeen fromallCentral HIV/AIDS pockets of the country. Typhus maybetransmitted byliceinscattered TYPHUS the states of Chiapas Oaxaca, and Guerrero. isreported areasthe disease fromhighland in rapidly flowingrivers andstreams. InMexico, black flies,which breed alongthebanksof to blindness.Theinfection istransmitted by caused by aroundworminvadingtheeye,leading is blindness) (river Onchocerciasis ONCHOCERCIASIS the YucatánPeninsula and Jalisco State. ported from thecentralpartof thecountry, may belife threatening. have re- Cases been meningitis, gangrene andkidneyfailure, and Complications mayincludepneumonia, ache andmuscleaches, followedbyarash. borne infection characterized byfever, head- spottedRocky Mountain fever isatick- ROCKY MOUNTAIN SPOTTED FEVER It usuallyresponds well to antibiotics. pending uponhowtheinfection isacquired. skinulcersor cause withswollenglands,de- asaflu-likemay develop illness,pneumonia occur inthenorthernruralareas. Tularemia of aninfectious aerosol.InMexico, mostcases aremal. Occasionalcases byinhalation caused or byhandlingthecarcass of aninfected ani- become infected bites, tickordeerfly through dents, rabbits andhares. Humansgenerally bacterial infection ro- thatprimarilyaffects Tularemia, alsoknown as‘ rabbit fever,’ is a o - 1 1 - h e a NMXC • Taees irha ••Travelers’Diarrhea IN MEXICO l t h . i n d d

1 0 0 4 nia andlossof appetite. maybe cases Severe insom- vomiting,dizziness,malaise, nausea, exertion. Symptomsmayincludeheadaches, with fasteraltitudesandgreater ascents,higher are pronetofuture episodes.Theriskincreases have experiencedaltitudesicknessinthepast matter of genetic predisposition. who Those tobechiefly of a altitudesickness.Itseems yourrisk notlessen physicallyfitdoes Being ascend rapidlytoaltitudesgreater than2500m. intravelersAltitude sicknessmaydevelop who Altitude Sickness TREATMENT ENVIRONMENTAL HAZARDS& pain youshouldseek medical attention. by fever, shaking chills orsevere abdominal sists formore than72hours orisaccompanied (such asloperamide).Ifdiarrhea isbloody,per- a quinolonedrug)andanantidiarrheal agent anantibiotic(usually taking you should start havingstart more thanfourorfive stoolsaday stoolsdon’trequireloose treatment, butifyou lotsof andsugar.solution containing salt Afew plenty of fluids,preferably anoralrehydration when eatingfoodfrom street vendors. selectiveunpasteurized milk;andbehighly wary of contain dairyproductsthatmight fruits orvegetables ifcooked be orpeeled; infected onlyeatfresh (egwithiodinetablets); boiled,filteredit hasbeen orchemically dis- To prevent diarrhea, avoid water unless tap TRAVELERS’ DIARRHEA meals and avoid alcohol. altitudes, avoidhigher overexertion, eatlight you shouldalsobesure toascendgradually usual dosage is100mg twice daily. which somepeoplefindquite helpful.The type of steroid. Anaturalalternative isgingko, cians prescribe dexamethasone,which isa cannot tolerate mostphysi- acetazolamide, and temporary impotence. who Forthose drowsiness,nearsightedness tingling, nausea, fects includeincreased urination,numbness, hours after arrival ataltitude. Possiblesideef- 24 hours before ascentandcontinuedfor48 zolamide (Diamox), which shouldbestarted tude sicknessisamilddiuretic calledaceta- byhigh-altitude caused pulmonary edema. cerebral(high-altitude edema).Most deaths are pulmonary edema)orswellingof thebrain complicated byfluidinthelungs(high-altitude If you develop diarrhea,If youdevelop besure to drink To lessen thechanceTo lessen of altitudesickness, medicationtopreventThe standard alti- lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:46:53 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

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8 1005 0 0 2 / 2 1 / 1 111/12/2008 5:46:54 PM Another option is to disinfect water with water Another option is to disinfect A number of water filters are on the market. on the market. are filters water A number of SPF 15 or higher, providing both UVA and both UVA SPF 15 or higher, providing quired. The taste of iodinated water can be im- water iodinated of The taste quired. by adding vitamin acid). C (ascorbic proved than for more water Don’t consume iodinated women, those with a weeks. Pregnant a few thyroid diseasehistory of to and those allergic water. iodinated iodine should not drink fil- osmosis (reverse Those with smaller pores but they the broadest protection, provide ters) by easily plugged are and large relatively are (microstrainer pores debris. Those with larger against viruses, ineffective although are filters) Manufacturers’ other organisms. they remove followed. carefully instructions must be Sun stay sun exposure, from excessive To protect the midday sun, wear sunglasses and a out of with hat, and apply sunscreen wide-brimmed lents based on botanical products, described not been studied for adequately have above, insects other than mosquitoesand cannot be tick bites. to prevent recommended Water to not safe is generally in Mexico water Tap is drink. Vigorous boiling for one minute purifica- water means of the most effective than 2000m, boil tion. At altitudes greater minutes. three for usually enclosed iodine pills. Instructions are followed. Or you can be carefully and should iodine to one quart or liter of add 2% tincture 10 drops drops to clear water, (five water of and let stand for 30 minutes. to cloudy water) time may be re- is cold, a longer If the water commodations that allow entry of mosquitoes, of allow entry that commodations with with permethrin, use bed net treated a The mesh in under the mattress. tucked edges less than 1.5mm. Alternatively, size should be use room will fill the coil, which a mosquito with insecticide through the night. Repellent- not effective. are wristbands impregnated Tick Bites the follow yourself from tick bites, To protect mosquitoes, as for same except precautions to shoes, with pants preferable that boots are in. Be to perform a thoroughtucked tick sure day. You’ll generally each at the end of check need a friend or mirror for a the assistanceof ticks with tweezers, full examination. Remove the head. Insectgrasping them firmly by repel- 5 0 Treatment IN MEXICO Hazards & •• Environmental 0 1

d d n i . h t l a e h - 1 Don’t sleep window open unless with the For additional protection, apply permeth- For additional protection, Insect repellents containing certainInsect botani- repellents Travel to high altitudes is generally not re- to high is generally altitudes Travel Symptoms of altitude sickness develop develop sickness altitude of Symptoms 1 - o there is a screen. If sleeping outdoors or in ac- If sleeping outdoors is a screen. there effective for at least two weeks,effective even when should not Permethrin laundered. are items to skin. be applied directly rin to clothing, shoes, tents and bed nets. and bed nets. rin to clothing, shoes, tents and remain safe are treatments Permethrin soybean oil, are effective but last only 1½ to two effective soybean oil, are malaria or is a high risk of there Where hours. repellents. useyellow fever, DEET-containing not effective. Products based are on citronella from DEET, especially in children, but appears but appears from DEET, especially in children, re- uncommon and generally to be extremely Don’t use DEET-containing to overuse. lated under two. compounds on children eucalyptus and cal products, including oil of containing no more than 10% DEET, applied than containing no more three last about will usually sparingly, which has been reported Neurological toxicity hours. and children over 12 should use preparations 12 should use preparations over and children containing usually 25% to 35% DEET, which between two Children lasts about six hours. should use age preparations of and 12 years insect repellent, preferably one containing preferably insect repellent, Apply it to exposed skin and cloth- DEET. ing, but not to eyes, mouth, cuts, wounds or irritated containing skin. Products lower but as effective, DEET are concentrations of adults In general, time. periods of for shorter Mosquito Bites Mosquito Bites long sleeves, wear mosquito bites, To prevent long pants, hats and shoes. Bring along a good commended for those with a history of heart commended for those with a history of disease, lung disease,sickle-cell disease. or It is women. pregnant for also not recommended quate except in cases of cerebral edema, which edema, which cerebral except in cases of quate descent. Supplemental a greater may require Acetazolamide available. is helpful if oxygen alt- be usedand dexamethasone may to treat it. prevent itude sickness as well as signs of cerebral or pulmonary edema, such such or pulmonary edema, cerebral signs of or mental you confusion, as trouble breathing descend to a lower altitude. must immediately ade- 500m to 1000m is generally A descent of sickness, you should not ascend to a higher not ascend you should al- sickness, If the cleared. the symptoms have titude until shows or if someone worse symptoms become gradually so, with proper care, serious com- proper care, so, with gradually If you or usually be prevented. plications can altitude any symptoms of show a companion lonelyplanet.com c i x e mmexico-11-health.indd 1005 mmexico-11-health.indd 1006 e x HEALTH i c breathing, orchest pain.Minimize wheezing difficulty air pollution,includingcoughing, are atgreatest riskforcomplicationsfrom whoaretions andthose elderlyorvery young Travelers withrespiratory orcardiaccondi- typically mostsevere fromDecembertoMay. pecially inMexico CityandGuadalajara. Itis Air pollutionmaybeasignificantproblem,es- Air Pollution temperatures.ous exercise inhigh tivity. Drinkplentyof fluids andavoid strenu- and reapplied after swimmingorvigorousac- approximately 30minutes before sunexposure partsofously appliedtoallexposed thebody UVB protection. Sunscreen shouldbegener- 1006 tend nottobite humans.Northof Mexico prey. warm-blooded todetecthead, which thepresence ituses of theeyeandnostril oneachbetween sideof its vipers, pit thebushmaster hasaheat-sensing measuring upto4minlength.Like otherpit bushmaster istheworld’slargest pitviper, it liescamouflaged ontheforest floor. The as cometooclose humans whoaccidentally withoutprovocation,attack butmaybite not lance isthemostlethal.Itgenerally does various speciesof rattlesnakes. Thefer-de- the bushmaster, fer-de-lance, coralsnake and Venomous Americainclude snakes inCentral of diarrhea, wouldbeappropriate. which manytravelers(Levaquin), carryincase of thenewerquinolones,such aslevofloxacin bites andscratches often becomeinfected. One byanimal ing anantibiotic–woundscaused nized againstrabies.Itmayalsobeworthstart- treatment, whetherornotyou’ve immu- been ties immediately forpossiblepostexposure iodine oralcohol. localhealthauthori- Contact followed byapplicationof such as an antiseptic withlargecleansed amountsof soapandwater, person’s attempt totouch orfeed the animal. Most animalinjuriesare directly related toa known tobefree of anyinfectious disease. mal, withtheexceptionof domesticanimals Do notattempt topet,handleorfeed anyani- Animal Bites exercise anddrinkingplenty of fluids. indoors,the riskbystaying avoiding outdoor ing bats, should be promptly and thoroughly ing bats,should bepromptlyandthoroughly Snake &ScorpionBites o - 1 Coral snakes are somewhatretiring and Any bite orscratch byamammal,includ- 1 - h e a NMXC • Cide rgatWmn ••Children &Pregnant Women IN MEXICO l t h . i n d d

1 0 0 6 for children orduringpregnancy, travel- these the vaccineslisted previously are notapproved women togoMexico. assomeof However, In general, it’ssafe forchildren andpregnant CHILDREN &PREGNANTWOMEN working aroundpilesof wood or leaves. and weargloves andprotective clothingwhen bagsbefore andsleeping use, clothing, shoes scorpion stings,besure toinspectandshake out go tothenearest emergency room.Toprevent packs, immobilize the affected bodypartand stung, youshould immediately applyiceorcold quets, which are no longer recommended. to thenearest medicalfacility.Avoid tourni- mobilized, andmove thevictimimmediately the victimatrest, keep thebitten area im- this distinctionis not useful. banding patterns becomemore complexand by black.Southofseparated Mexico City, the snakes, where thered andyellowbandsare low touching, incontrasttononvenomous yellow, red bandingpattern, withred andyel- City, allcoralsnakes have ared, yellow,black, tional certificate of vaccination. immunization centers tovalidate theinterna- byofficial used tionery andbearingthestamp letter, preferably written onletterhead sta- a countrywithyellowfever, awaiver obtain than ninemonths old,if youare arrivingfrom mended forpregnant womenorchildren less comparable tothatinyour home country. abroad, thequalityof medical care maynotbe cation such aspremature while labor develop pregnant, bearinmindthatshouldacompli- should discuss thiswithyourpediatrician.If early before nation.You visitingadeveloping to give children someof theirvaccinesalittle immunizations. It’ssometimesappropriate make sure they’re uptodate onallroutine beverage. Also,when traveling withchildren, water orconsumeanyquestionablefood tap ers shouldbeparticularlycareful nottodrink In the event ofIn theevent avenomous snake bite, place Since yellow-fever vaccine isnotrecom- Scorpions are a problem in many states. If Scorpions are If aprobleminmanystates. e a melatonin oilofeucalyptus,soybean prevention ginger mosquito bite motion sickness jet lag Problem Treatment TRADITIONAL MEDICINE lonelyplanet.com 111/12/2008 5:46:54 PM 1 / 1 2 / 2 0 0 8

5 : 4 6 : 5 4

P M 1007 Language PRONUNCIATION Spanish spelling is phonetically consistent, CONTENTS meaning that there’s a clear and consistent relationship between what you see in writ- Pronunciation 1007 ing and how it’s pronounced. In addition, Gender & Plurals 1008 most Spanish sounds have English equiva- Accommodations 1008 lents, so English speakers shouldn’t have Conversation & Essentials 1009 too much trouble being understood. Directions 1009 Emergencies 1011 Vowels Health 1011 a as in ‘father’ Language Difficulties 1011 e as in ‘met’ Numbers 1011 i as in ‘marine’ Paperwork 1012 o as in ‘or’ (without the ‘r’ sound) Shopping & Services 1012 u as in ‘rule’; the ‘u’ is not pronounced Time & Dates 1012 after q and in the letter combinations Transportation 1013 gue and gui, unless it’s marked with Travel with Children 1014 a diaeresis (eg argüir), in which case it’s pronounced as an English ‘w’ The predominant language of Mexico is y at the end of a word or when it stands Spanish. Mexican Spanish is unlike Castilian alone, it’s pronounced as the Spanish Spanish (the language of much of Spain) in i (eg ley); between vowels within a two main respects: in Mexico the Castilian word it’s as the ‘y’ in ‘yonder’ lisp has more or less disappeared, and numerous indigenous words have been adopted. Consonants About 50 indigenous languages are spoken As a rule, Spanish consonants resemble as a first language by more than seven mil- their English counterparts. The exceptions lion people, and about 15% of these don’t are listed below. speak Spanish. While the consonants ch, ll and ñ are gen- Travelers in cities, towns and larger vil- erally considered distinct letters, ch and ll lages can almost always find someone who are now often listed alphabetically under c speaks at least some English. All the same, and l respectively. The letter ñ is still treated LANGUAGE it is advantageous and courteous to know as a separate letter and comes after n in at least a few words and phrases in Spanish. dictionaries. Mexicans will generally respond much more positively if you attempt to speak to them b similar to an English ‘b,’ but softer; in their own language. It’s easy enough to pick up some basic referred to as ‘b larga’ Spanish, and for those who want to learn c as in ‘celery’ before e and i; otherwise the language in greater depth, courses are as an English ‘k’ available in several cities in Mexico (see ch as in ‘church’ p966). You can also study books, records d as in ‘dog,’ but between vowels and and tapes before you leave home. These after l or n, the sound is closer to the resources are often available free at public ‘th’ in ‘this’ libraries. Evening or college courses are also g as the ‘ch’ in the Scottish loch before an excellent way to get started. e and i (‘kh’ in our guides to pronun- For a more comprehensive guide to the ciation); elsewhere, as in ‘go’ Spanish of Mexico, get a copy of Lonely h invariably silent. If your name begins Planet’s Mexican Spanish Phrasebook. For with this letter, make sure you listen words and phrases that will come in handy carefully if you’re waiting for public when dining, see p100. officials to call you. LANGUAGE z plural isformedbyadding x v by adding it endsinaconsonant,thepluralis formed the masculineformfirst,eg guide, theyareseparatedbyaslash, with nine formsareincludedinthis language rr r ñ Estoy buscando ... for... I’mlooking ACCOMMODATIONS - noun theymodify(masculine/feminine also changetoagreewiththegenderof masculine noun.Endingsforadjectives or - end with- exceptions). Femininenounsgenerally mine gender(thereareofcoursesome feminine, andtherearerulestohelpdeter- In Spanish,nounsareeithermasculineor GENDER &PLURALS letters In general,wordsendinginvowelsorthe Word Stress ll j 1008 tion), the next-to-lastsyllable,while and stress onthelastsyllable.Thus syllable, whilethosewithotherendingshave above, eg pear inwordsthatdon’tfollowtherules the lastsyllable. and asthe‘ch’inScottish a short asthe‘s’in‘sun’ o similarto anEnglish‘b,’butsofter; usuallypronouncedas variesbetweenthe‘y’in‘yes’and asthe‘ni’in‘onion’ verystronglyrolled(notreflectedin /- If anounoradjectiveendsinvowel, the Written accentswillalmostalwaysap- a dad infeliz caballos ). Wherebothmasculineandfemi- LANGUAGE &Plurals ••Gender América other instances pronounced asan‘s’;in‘taxi’ some indigenousplacenamesit’s referred toas‘bcorta’ the pronunciationguides) often rolled word, andafter ‘lli’ in‘million’ ‘kh’ inourguidestopronunciation) n . Otherendingstypicallysignifya or sótano (unhappy)arebothstressedon es a s orwiththegroups- havestressonthenext-to-last (horses)bothcarrystresson totheend. r . exceptatthebeginningofa (basement), e· stoy l boos· , n or loch s kan·do totheend.If perdido/a porción ciudad s j (writtenas , whenit’s vaca above;in ... ción (cow) (city) (por- , - . sión

ayouth hostel a posada house alodging a hotel a guesthouse acamping ground don a cabin/cabana ¿Dónde hay...? is...? Where we full board week person night per ...? How muchisit room. a... I’d like ay anyroomsavailable? there Are

twin single double ¿Hay habitacioneslibres? n oaa oo un alberguejuvenil una posada oo una casadehuéspedes oo un hotel una pensión oo un áreaparaacampar una cabaña credit card... credit for thenightsof... in thenameof... tobook... I’d like Date From ... To ... (for phoneorwrittenrequests) MAKING ARESERVATION pie price availability Please confirm...

forbedandroomoptions) under ‘Accommodations’ a·bee·ta· xiydt expiry date number

syon

·es

pensión por ...? ¿Cuánto cuesta habitación ... Quisiera una lee completa semana persona noche no con doscamas individual doble ·bres oon al· oon o· oon la disponibilidad Puede confirmar... para lasnochesdel... en nombrede... Quisiera reservar Fecha De ... A ... tarjeta decrédito... ·de ai... ·na po· ·na ·na pen· ·na ca· el precio fecha devencimiento número a·

kee· ka·sa re·a tel ber

ba· sa· ·ge khoo·ve· lonelyplanet.com syon pa pen· por ... kwan a kon dos een·dee·vee·

de nya ·bee·ta· da kom· se· per· do ·ra a·kam· wes sye ·ble ·che syon ma ·to so ...(see ple ·ra oo·na ·na ·na ·pe·des kwes syon ...

·ta ka neel par ·mas ·ta dwal LANGUAGE

1009 (pol) lar ·to ·do (inf) ·do (pol) fo ·da sted kha ·cho (inf) ·cha ·o kha ·na ·dra

·te re kyer ·te ·es (pol/inf) re ·te oo es kee ee

·a se·nya· ·to er a·lo· mee soor o· a· a· a·lo· ·ma oo· ·mas ·pa) kar ta tas ya ·ya de· dree ya goos ·go a ... ma va ·khos ·to es ye ·de es/ ·mo ... ·e a la ees· ·e a la de· le

Men Women ·cho ·do sa· ya ·de es· ·de es· te te ·ga/ don ta Closed Prohibited Police Station Toilets Entrance Exit Information Open goos ·mo se ·mo te ·mo de don ko ko es· vol· vol· me el soy de ... don

me lo po·

sur este es oeste aquí ahí cuadra kwa norte nor

(en el (en (en el mapa)? SIGNS Entrada Salida Información Abierto Cerrado Prohibido Comisaria Servicios/Baños Hombres/Varones Mujeres/Damas ¿Dónde está alojado? ¿Puedo sacar una foto? pwe ¿Cómo llego a ...? ¿Está lejos? ko Siga/Vaya derecho. see Voltée a la izquierda. Voltée a la derecha. ¿Cómo se llama usted? ¿Cómo se ¿Cómo te llamas? Me llamo ... Mucho gusto. El gusto es mío. moo ¿De dónde es/eres? Soy de ... ¿Me lo podría señalar south east west here there block north May I take a photo? DIRECTIONS How do I get to ...? Is it far? Go straight ahead. left.Turn right.Turn Canshow me (on the map)? you What’s your name? What’s My name is ... It’s a pleasure you. to meet The pleasure is mine. Where are you from? I’m from ... Where are you staying? ¿Dónde estás alojado?

LANGUAGE •• Conservation •• LANGUAGE Essentials &

·ro ·do/ ka ·do ·syas va ·as ·mee·ko ·des ·ches ·no tee gracias ·do ·a gra no ·pe ·to ·go dee tar no ·so yoo sya dee vor ·da lwe kool ·chas ·n ·nos ·nas ·nas kwen don mee ·syas na ·mo ·nyo pree· ·ta dyos kom·par· ·la (inf) to por fa· de per· per· dees· a· see no de·ma· mas e·ko· des· ·ta ·ra syon o ·ye el de·sa· a· goos byen la

kloo ·do ver la voy

a·bee·ta· (please) and een· no me ke tal me Por favor. Gracias. gra Muchas gracias. moo De nada. Perdón. Permiso. Disculpe. Buen día. Buenos días. Buenas tardes. bwe bwe Buenas noches. bwe bwe Adiós. Hasta luego. Sí. as No. Hola. o compartido compartido demasiado caro más económico descuento baño privado/ baño privado/ ba es·ta por favor

Saying

Está bien. La tomo. ¿Qué tal? No me gusta. ¿Puedo ver la pwe ¿Incluye el desayuno? ¿Incluye el desayuno? Hi. (thank you) are second nature to most (thank you) are second nature to most Mexicans and a recommended tool in your travel kit. before a request or when apologizing) (used How are things? Excuse me. You’re welcome. Apologies. May I? Thank you. Many thanks. No. Please. See you soon. Yes. night. Goodbye. Good morning. Good afternoon. Good evening/ Hello. CONVERSATION & ESSENTIALS CONVERSATION for informa- When approaching a stranger extend a greeting, tion you should always form of address, and use only the polite and public offi- especially with the police be less likely to cials. Young people may expect this, but it’s best to stick to the polite form unless you’re quite sure you won’t offend by using the informal mode. The polite form is used in all cases in this guide; where options are given, the form is indi- ations ‘pol’ and ‘inf.’ cated by the abbrevi Me voy ahora. It’s fine. I’ll take it. I’m leaving now. I don’t like it. May I see the room? Does it include breakfast?Does it include too expensive cheaper discount private/shared bathroom lonelyplanet.com habitación? LANGUAGE 1010 ¡Órale! No haytos. Nel. Simón. un desmadre reven Let’sgoparty! ¡Vámonos dereventón! irse dereventón ligar tirar laonda Let'sgohaveadrink. Echamos unalipús/trago. echarse unalipús,trago alipús pisto You’rereallycool(nice). Eres muybuenaonda. Myboyfriendisreallycool. Mi novioesmuybuenaonda. ser muybuenaonda Thesingerisreallyawesome. El cantanteesunfregón. Thisclubiswaycool. Este clubestáfregón. fregón ¡Qué padre! ¿Qué pasión? ¿Qué onda? and phrasesallaroundMexico,butothersareparticulartoMexicoCity. Pepper yourconversationswithafewslangexpressions!You'llhearmanyofthesewords MEXICAN SLANG Sounds great!(responding toaninvitation) No problem.(literally‘there’s nocough.’) No. Yes. a mess atmosphere) a ‘rave’(hugepartywithloudmusicandwild go partying to flirt try topicksomeoneup,flirt to gogetadrink booze booze to bereallycool,nice really goodatsomething,waycool,awesome How cool! What’s up?,What'sgoingon? What’s up?,What'shappening? LANGUAGE Slang ••Mexican (inthenorth) (positive) (MexicoCity) carnal lana un resto ¡No manches! ¡Te pasas! ¡¿Chale?! ¡Bájale! ¡Guácatelas! ¡Guácala! ¡Paso sinver! Sale yvale. Me vale. Me late. ¿Te cae? ¡Caray! ¡Órale! la chota la tira,julia jefa jefe chava chavo cuate, cuaderno money, dough a lot Get outtahere!,Youmustbekidding! That’s it!You'vegonetoofar! No way! Don’t exaggerate!,Comeon! How gross!That’sdisgusting! I can’tstandit!,Nothankyou! I agree,Soundsgood. I don‘tcare,Whatever. Sounds reallygoodtome. Are youserious? Shit! What the*#&$!?(tauntingexclamation) the police the police mother father girl, gal guy, dude buddy brother (negative) (Mexico City) (MexicoCity) lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE ·no

·lo 1011 ·ve ·no oo ·te ·lo ·ta ·no ·syo beer ·cho oo ) (pol/inf) says sye o nwe ·ta oo ·tos pa teer mas ·ta ·ta ·ta ·ta ... ·se kwen ·ta gles ren ·te ·se ·ko meel ·ko ·ve ·tro ·de ... por blar des· ven syen ·te tor ·ka sen ten ·se ·se ·se ·no ·ble ·vor chen re·pe· a· es·kree· ·cho a ·se ... no· syen syen·to do· meel fa dos tres says dyes ka· dye·see· dye·see· dye·see· dye·see· vayn·tee· trayn·ta ee kwa· seen· se· se· o· fee ·do dee tyen ·blas (een· gles a gyen ke al· ·mo se een· ·bla/ (no) en· a ai ke seeg·nee·

despacio despacio repetirlo hablar más escribirlo LANGUAGE •• Health Health •• LANGUAGE noventa cien ciento uno doscientos mil cinco mil seen once on doce do trece tre catorce quince keen dieciséis diecisiete dieciocho diecinueve veinte vayn veintiuno treinta trayn treinta y uno cuarenta cincuenta sesenta setenta ochenta favor? uno oo dos tres cuatro kwa cinco seen seis siete sye ocho o nueve nwe diez ¿Puede ..., por pwe

inglés? inglés? slowly ¿Habla/Hablas (inglés)? ¿Habla/Hablas (inglés)? hable ¿Hay alguien que ¿Cómo se dice ...? ¿Qué significa ...? ko

90 100 101 200 1000 5000 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 30 31 40 50 60 70 80 please ...? that repeat speak more down it write NUMBERS 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 LANGUAGE DIFFICULTIES LANGUAGE speak (English)? Do you hereDoes anyone English? speak I (don’t) understand. Entiendo. (No) ...? How do you say What does ...mean? Could you

·tes· · ·a

·do byo de ·sya see ·tee·ko/a khwa ·nyos ba ses tal dar ·dee·ko lor ·sa tor

·tee·ko/a ·khee·ko/a ·a lep ·tee·ko/a ba khen ·sya me be ·se·a be re ler ·do/a ·da ·ro ma nwe· ·go lan ·do/a los sa ka· ko ·go ... ·khe·me ·me a ·ya·se dee la po·lee· oon oo·na am·boo· los ka·ka· los an·tee· las as· dya· dya· oon do· tos na e·mer· ya so· me an ro· vor

soy a· soy ... a ... ·de a·yoo·

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fer ·to oon dok· pwe ·de toy e·pee· oo·

por fa· see em·ba·ra· va·koo· en·

es me es· ·de es· toy toy toy es· es· es· ne·se·

cabeza cabeza la policía un médico una ambulancia los cacahuates diabético/a epiléptico/a los antibióticos las nueces asmático/a náusea now diarrea náusea un dolor de tos ¡Socorro! fwe ¡Fuego! Me han robado. de ¡Déjeme! va ¡Váyase! ¡Llame a ...! Soy alérgico/a Soy ... Tengo ... ten a ...

por favor?

¿Dónde están los baños? don ¿Me puede ayudar, Estoy perdido/a. Es una emergencia.

Where are the toilets? I’m lost. an ambulance ambulance an It’s an emergency. Could you help me, please? Call ...! doctor a Fire! Fire! I’ve been robbed. Go away! Get lost! EMERGENCIES Help! the police the Estoy vacunado/a. Estoy embarazada. ¿Dónde está el hospital? don Necesito un doctor. Estoy enfermo/a. peanuts tee·kos

epileptic asthmatic diabetic I’m ... nuts antibiotics I’m allergic to ... a cough a nausea headache a I have ... diarrhea I’ve been vaccinated. I’m pregnant. Where’s the hospital? I need a doctor. HEALTH I’m sick. lonelyplanet.com LANGUAGE I’m justlooking.

less AM ATM for (the)... I’m looking small large more traveler’s checks credit cards ¿Aceptan ...? Do youaccept...? it. I’ll take it. I don’tlike Could youlowertheprice? forme. tooexpensive That’s How muchisit? Ilookatit? May tobuy... I’dlike SHOPPING &SERVICES visa card tourist vehicle temporary passport insurance immigration identification license driver’s customs car registration title car-owner’s border (frontier) certificate birth PAPERWORK 1012

American dollars

Cát usa kwan Es demasiadocaro pwe ¿Cuánto cuesta? ¿Puedo verlo/la? Sólo estoymirando. Quisiera comprar... permit import cheques deviajero tarjetas de dólares americanos Lo llevo. No megusta. ¿Podría bajarunpoco lpei? el precio? aam. pa para mí. visado LANGUAGE ••Paperwork aduana pasaporte seguro

crédito tarjetadeturista migración

identificación licenciademanejar registración certificadodenacimiento temporaldevehículo títulodepropiedad la frontera

Estoy buscando... pequeño/a grande gran más menos me

permisodeimportación lcjr el cajero automático a· no me so kee· es de·ma· lo po· che·kes devya· tar· do el sep ·lo es· ye dree ·do pre sye ·la·res ·ra mee ·vo ·tan ... khe ·to goos ·ra kom· ·syo ·a ba· ver toy ·tas de kwes sya

a·me·ree· ·lo/la mee· ·ta

es· pe· mas ·do khar ·ta el ka· toy

prar ·nos ke ow·to· kre ran ka khe ·de oon ·nyo/a boos· ·dee·to ·ro ... khe ·do ka ·ro ma po ·nos

·ro kan ·ko ·tee·ko ·do

ps fie post office letter letter airmail I wanttocall... What istheexchangerate? checks. I wanttochangesomemoney/traveler’s What timedoesitopen/close? tourist office supermarket pharmacy/ market laundry general store exchange office bookstore bank Wednesday Tuesday Monday yesterday tomorrow tonight today now noon midnight Half pasttwo. o’clock. It’s seven It’s oneo’clock. What timeisit? TIME &DATES stamps registered mer·

kee· Quisiera llamara... kwal esel ¿Cuál eseltipodecambio? kee· Quisiera cambiardinero/chequesdeviajero. a ke ¿A quéhoraabre/cierra? Dos ymedia. Son lassiete. Es launa. ¿Qué horaes? chemist sye sye o ·ra ·ra lya· ·ra kam· a ·bre/ tee (mail) ·po de mar sye byar

a... ·ra carta kar correo aéreo miércoles myer martes mar lunes loo es ayer mañana esta noche hoy ahora mediodía medianoche timbres teem certificado dee· kam aoiiad la oficinade el supermercado la oficina la farmacia el mercado la lavandería la tienda la casade la librería el banco ecres de correos turismo cambio kam ·byo ne dos ee son las es la ke ·ro/ o ·ra es too· oo che me sye ·na ·kes devya· ·dya ·te lonelyplanet.com ko· a· ma· oy a· me·dyo· me·dya· ser·tee·fee· la o·fee· el soo·per· la o·fee· la far· el mer· la la·van·de· la la la lee·bre· el yer o ·ta ·nes ·ra re ·ta de ko· nya ·tes ban tyen ka ·bres ·ko·les ·o a· no ·sa de rees ·na ma ·byo ·che ·ko ka no khe dee ·da ka e re see see· ·re·o ·do ·che ·sya ·do ka ·mo ·os ·a ·ro ree ·na de ·do na ree ·a ·a LANGUAGE ton 1013

·ta ·tro ·na ·na seen kle a·ven· lee lee lee ·mo ·kop ·sel ·sos deer ·myon na ·ta el ·ra pe bee·see· pe· ga·so· ga·so· vor ne lee· kwes a toll road) Road Repairs Parking Give Way Slow One-Way Keep to the Right No Overtaking Stop Toll Danger No Parking No Entry Freeway/Highway Exit Entrance ·so·lee· ·de ai oo·na ·ro (syen)

·no por fa· de ga·so· School (zone) School Road Under Repair Men at Work Right Keep to the kwan·to Speed Bumps Speed Have Toll Ready plomo plo plomo Narrow Bridge Narrow Dangerous Curve Dangerous diesel dee gasolina gasolina sin bicicleta pedir aventón pickup pee camión ka Road Closed Road Landslides Detour Toll Highway Toll Short Route (often LANGUAGE •• Transportation •• LANGUAGE gasolinera? ga gasolinera? Vía Corta Vía Cuota Dirección Única Escuela (Zona Escolar) Hombres Trabajando Mantenga Su Derecha No Adelantar No Hay Paso Pare/Stop Peaje Peligro Prepare Su Cuota Prohibido Aparcar/ Estacionar No Prohibido el Paso Puente Angosto Salida de Autopista Topes/Vibradores Tramo en Reparación ROAD SIGNS ROAD inter- mostly uses the familiar Though Mexico signs, you should be prepared national road these other signs as well: to encounter Acceso Estacionamiento Camino en Reparación Ceda el Paso Conserve Su Derecha Curva Peligrosa Derrumbes Despacio Desviación Quiero (cien) pesos. kye ¿Dónde hay una don Lleno, por favor. ye

diesel gas/petrol unleaded bicycle hitchhike pickup (ute) truck Where’s a gas/petrol station? How much is a liter of gasoline/petrol? gasolina? ¿Cuánto cuesta el litro de Please fill it up. I’d like (100) pesos worth.

yo ·te por ·se ·se see·

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motorbike car hire a/an ... 4WD Private Transportation I’d like to round-trip taxi 2nd class single/one-way student’s 1st class What’s the fare to ...? A ticket to ..., please. a luggage locker the ticket office the bus stop the airport the bus station the plane the the bus the minibus the the boat the bus the What time does ... leave/arrive? TRANSPORTATION Public Transportation November December September October July August May June March April January February Saturday Sunday Thursday Friday lonelyplanet.com

LANGUAGE me ke· ten don too ne·se· Necesito ... I need ... TRAVEL WITHCHILDREN hadanaccident. I‘ve runoutofgas/petrol. I’ve aflattire. I have won’tstart. motorbike The down(in...). carhasbroken The ¿Hayungarajecercadeaquí? agaragenearhere? Is there I needamechanic/towtruck. doIpay? Where Iparkhere? (How long)Can Is thistheroadto(...)? puncture tire oil 1014 Tengo unallantaponchada. la La motonoarranca. el El cochesedescompuso(en...). ne·se· Necesito unmecánico/remolque. ¿Dónde sepaga? (por ¿(Por cuántotiempo)Puedoestacionarmeaquí? por a· ¿Por aquísevaa(...)? Tuve unaccidente. Me quedésin ai oonga· aceite llanta yan ko mo ·go ·ve oonak·see· see ·de se LANGUAGE ••TravelwithChildren ·che sedes·kom· kwan ·to noa· kee see ·to ... de oo agujero ·to oonme· ·na se vaa(...) seen ga·so· ra pa ·to ·khe ser·kadea· ·ga

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For more food and drink terms, also see the calle – street Food & Drink Glossary (p100 ); for trans- callejón – alley portation terms, see the Transportation callejoneada – originally a Spanish tradition, still chapter (p983 ); for general terms, see the enjoyed in such cities as Guanajuato and Zacatecas; Language chapter (p1007). musicians lead a crowd of revelers through the streets, singing and telling stories as they go AC – antes de Cristo (before Christ); equivalent to BC calzada – grand boulevard or avenue adobe – sun-dried mud brick used for building calzones – long baggy shorts worn by indigenous men aduana – customs camarín – chapel beside the main altar in a church; con- agave – family of plants including the maguey tains ceremonial clothing for images of saints or the Virgin Alameda – name of formal parks in several Mexican cities camión – truck or bus albergue de juventud – youth hostel camioneta – pickup truck alebrije – colorful wooden animal figure campesino/a – country person, peasant alfarería – potters’ workshop capilla abierta – open chapel; used in early Mexican mon- alfiz – rectangular frame around a curved arch; an Arabic asteries for preaching to large crowds of indigenous people influence on Spanish and Mexican buildings casa de cambio – exchange house; place where currency Altiplano Central – dry plateau stretching across north is exchanged; faster to use than a bank central Mexico between the two Sierra Madre ranges casa de huéspedes – cheap and congenial accommoda- amate – paper made from tree bark tions, often a home converted into simple guest lodgings Ángeles Verdes – Green Angels; government-funded caseta de larga distancia, caseta de teléfono, mechanics who patrol Mexico’s major highways in green caseta telefónica – public telephone call station vehicles; they help stranded motorists with fuel and spare cazuela – clay cooking pot; usually sold in a nested set parts cenote – a limestone sinkhole filled with rainwater; often antro – bar with (often loud) recorded music and usually used in Yucatán as a reservoir some space to dance central camionera – bus terminal Apdo – abbreviation for apartado (Box) in addresses; cerro – hill hence Apdo Postal means Post Office Box Chac – Maya rain god arroyo – brook, stream chac-mool – pre-Hispanic stone sculpture of a hunched- artesanías – handicrafts, folk arts up figure; the stomach may have been used as a sacrificial atlas, atlantes (pl) – sculpted male figure(s) used altar instead of a pillar to support a roof or frieze; a telamon charreada – Mexican rodeo atrium – churchyard, usually a big one charro – Mexican cowboy autopista – expressway, dual carriageway chenes – wells (Yucatán Peninsula) azulejo – painted ceramic tile Chilango/a – person from Mexico City chinampa – Aztec garden built from lake mud and bahía – bay vegetation; versions still exist at Xochimilco, Mexico City balneario – bathing place, often a natural hot spring chingar – literally ‘to fuck’; it has a wide range of baluarte – bulwark, defensive wall colloquial usages in Mexican Spanish equivalent to those barrio – neighborhood of a town or city, often a poor in English neighborhood chultún – cement-lined brick cistern found in the chenes billete – banknote region in the Puuc hills south of Mérida boleto – ticket Churrigueresque – Spanish late-baroque architectural brujo/a – witch doctor, shaman; similar to curandero/a style; found on many Mexican churches burro – donkey cigarro – cigarette GLOSSARY clavadistas – cliff divers of Acapulco and Mazatlán caballeros – literally ‘horsemen,’ but corresponds to Coatlicue – mother of the Aztec gods ‘gentlemen’ in English; look for it on toilet doors colectivo – minibus or car that picks up and drops off cabaña – cabin, simple shelter passengers along a predetermined route; can also refer to cabina – Baja Californian term for a caseta other types of transportation, such as boats, where pas- cacique – regional warlord; political strongman sengers share the total fare 1016 GLOSSARY

coleto/a – citizen of San Cristóbal de Las Casas estípite – long, narrow, pyramid-shaped, upside-down colonia – neighborhood of a city, often a wealthy pilaster; the hallmark of Churrigueresque architecture residential area ex-convento – former convent or monastery combi – minibus ex-voto – small painting on wood, tin, cardboard, comida corrida – set lunch glass etc; placed in a church to give thanks for miracles, completo – literally ‘full up’; no vacancy; a sign you may answered prayers etc (see also retablo) see at hotel desks excusado – toilet conde – count (nobleman) conquistador – early Spanish explorer–conqueror faja – waist sash used in traditional indigenous costume cordillera – mountain range feria – fair or carnival, typically occurring during a correos – post office religious holiday coyote – person who smuggles Mexican immigrants into ferrocarril – railway the US ficha – a token or counter; you often need one to operate criollo – Mexican-born person of Spanish parentage; in lockers at bus terminals colonial times considered inferior by peninsulares fiesta mexicana – touristic show of Mexican folkloristic Cristeros – Roman Catholic rebels of the late 1920s dance and music, often with dinner and drinks included cuota – toll; a vía cuota is a toll road fonda – inn curandero/a – literally ‘curer’; a medicine man or fraccionamiento – subdivision, housing development; woman who uses herbal and/or magical methods and similar to a colonia, often modern often emphasizes spiritual aspects of disease frontera – a border between political entities

damas – ladies; the sign on toilet doors gachupines – derogatory term for the colonial danzantes – literally ‘dancers’; stone carvings at Monte peninsulares Albán giro – money order DC – después de Cristo (after Christ); equivalent to AD gringo/a – US or Canadian (and sometimes European, degustación – tasting session, especially of wine Australasian etc) visitor to Latin America; can be used de lujo – deluxe; often used with some license derogatorily de paso – a bus that began its route somewhere else, but grito – literally ‘shout’; the Grito de Dolores was the 1810 stops to let passengers on or off at various points – often call to independence by parish priest Miguel Hidalgo, arriving late; a local bus is preferable which sparked the struggle for independence from Spain delegación – a large urban governmental subdivision in gruta – cave, grotto Mexico City comprising numerous colonias guarache – see huarache descompuesto – broken, out of order guardería de equipaje – room for storing luggage (eg DF – Distrito Federal (Federal District); about half of in a bus station) Mexico City lies in the DF guayabera – also guayabarra; man’s shirt with pockets dueño/a – owner and appliquéd designs up the front, over the shoulders dulcería – candy store and down the back; worn in place of a jacket and tie in hot regions edificio – building güero/a – fair-haired, fair-complexioned person; a more ejido – communal landholding polite alternative to gringo/a embarcadero – jetty, boat landing encomienda – a grant of indigenous labor or tribute to hacendado – hacienda owner a conquistador; in return, the conquistador was supposed hacha – flat, carved-stone object from the Classic Vera- to protect the indigenous people in question and convert cruz civilization; connected with the ritual ball game them to Catholicism, but in reality they were usually hacienda – estate; Hacienda (capitalized) is the Treasury treated as little more than slaves Department enramada – bower or shelter; often refers to a thatch- hay – there is, there are; you’re also likely to hear no hay covered, open-air restaurant (there is not, there are not) enredo – wraparound skirt henequén – agave fiber used to make sisal rope; grown entremeses – hors d’oeuvres; also theatrical sketches particularly around Mérida like those performed during the Cervantino festival in hombres – men; sign on toilet doors Guanajuato hostal – can mean either a small hotel or a budget hostel

GLOSSARY escuela – school huarache – also guarache; woven leather sandal, often esq – abbreviation of esquina (corner) in addresses with tire tread as the sole estación de ferrocarril – train station huevos – eggs; also slang for testicles GLOSSARY 1017 huipil, huipiles (pl) – indigenous woman’s sleeveless lista de correos – literally ‘mail list’; list displayed at a tunic, usually highly decorated; can be thigh-length or post office of people for whom letters are waiting; similar reach the ankles to General Delivery or Poste Restante Huizilopochtli – Aztec tribal god lleno – full, as with a car’s fuel tank local – can mean premises, such as a numbered shop or iglesia – church an office in a mall or block; or can mean local – a local INAH – Instituto Nacional de Antropología e Historia; the bus is one whose route starts from the bus station you body in charge of most ancient sites and some museums are in indígena – indigenous, pertaining to the original locutorio – same as a caseta telefónica inhabitants of Latin America; can also refer to the people themselves machismo – Mexican masculine bravura INI – Instituto Nacional Indígenista; set up in 1948 to madre – literally ‘mother’; the term can also be used improve the lot of indigenous Mexicans and to integrate colloquially with an astonishing array of meanings them into society; sometimes accused of paternalism and maguey – type of agave, with thick pointed leaves trying to stifle protest growing straight out of the ground; tequila and mezcal are intercambio – interchange; often used to describe made from its sap meetings with local people for Spanish and English malecón – waterfront street, boulevard or promenade conversation mañana – literally ‘tomorrow’ or ‘morning’; in some internet inalámbrico – wireless internet (wi-fi) contexts it may just mean ‘sometime in the future’ ISH – impuesto sobre hospedaje; lodging tax on the price maquiladora – assembly-plant operation importing of hotel rooms equipment, raw materials and parts for assembly or isla – island processing in Mexico, then exporting the products IVA – impuesto de valor agregado, or ‘ee-bah’; a sales tax mariachi – small ensemble of street musicians playing added to the price of many items (15% on hotel rooms) traditional ballads on guitars and trumpets ixtle – maguey fiber marimba – wooden xylophone-like instrument popular in southeastern Mexico jaguar – panther native to southern Mexico and Cen- Mayab – the lands of the Maya tral and South America; principal symbol of the Olmec mercado – market; often a building near the center of civilization a town, with shops and open-air stalls in the surrounding jai alai – the Basque game pelota, brought to Mexico by streets the Spanish; a bit like squash, played on a long court with Mesoamerica – the region inhabited by the ancient curved baskets attached to the arm Mexican and Maya cultures jardín – garden mestizaje – ‘mixedness,’ Mexico’s mixed-blood heritage; jarocho/a – citizen of Veracruz officially an object of pride jefe – boss or leader, especially a political one mestizo – person of mixed (usually indigenous and jipijapa – Yucatán name for a Panama hat Spanish) ancestry jorongo – small poncho worn by men metate – shallow stone bowl with legs used for grinding maize and other foods Kukulcán – Maya name for the plumed serpent god Mexican Hat Dance – a courtship dance in which a girl Quetzalcóatl and boy dance around the boy’s hat Mexican Revolution – 1910 revolution that ended the lada – short for larga distancia Porfiriato ladino – person of mixed (usually indigenous and milpa – peasant’s small cornfield, often cultivated using Spanish) ancestry the slash-and-burn method lancha – fast, open, outboard boat mirador, miradores (pl) – lookout point(s) larga distancia – long-distance; usually refers to Montezuma’s revenge – Mexican version of telephones Delhi-belly or travelers’ diarrhea latifundio – large landholding; these sprang up after mordida – literally ‘little bite’; a small bribe to keep the Mexico’s independence from Spain wheels of bureaucracy turning GLOSSARY latifundista – powerful landowner who usurped com- mota – marijuana munally owned land to form a latifundio Mudéjar – Moorish architectural style imported to libramiento – road, highway Mexico by the Spanish licenciado – university graduate; abbreviated as Lic and mujeres – women; seen on toilet doors used as an honorific before a person’s name; status claimed municipio – small local government area; Mexico is by many who don’t actually possess a degree divided into 2394 of them 1018 GLOSSARY

na – Maya thatched hut poblano/a – person from Puebla; something in the style Nafta – North American Free Trade Agreement of Puebla Náhuatl – language of the Nahua people, descendants pollero – same as a coyote of the Aztecs Porfiriato – reign of Porfirio Díaz as president–dictator nao – Spanish trading galleon of Mexico for 30 years until the Mexican Revolution norteamericano – North American, someone from portales – arcades north of the US–Mexican border posada – inn Nte – abbreviation for norte (north), used in street names potosino – from the city or state of San Luis Potosí presidio – fort or fort’s garrison Ote – abbreviation for oriente (east), used in street names PRI – Partido Revolucionario Institucional (Institutional Revolutionary Party); the political party that ruled Mexico paceño/a – person from La Paz, Baja California Sur for most of the 20th century palacio de gobierno – state capitol, state government primera – first class headquarters propina – tip; different from a mordida, which is closer palacio municipal – town or city hall, headquarters of to a bribe the municipal corporation Pte – abbreviation for poniente (west), used in street palapa – thatched-roof shelter, usually on a beach names palma – long, paddle-like, carved-stone object from puerto – port the Classic Veracruz civilization; connected with the ritual pulque – milky, low-alcohol brew made from the maguey ball game plant PAN – Partido Acción Nacional (National Action Party); the political party of president Felipe Calderón and his quechquémitl – indigenous woman’s shoulder cape predecessor Vicente Fox with an opening for the head; usually colorfully panga – fiberglass skiff for fishing or whale-watching in embroidered, often diamond-shaped Baja California quetzal – crested bird with brilliant green, red and white parada – bus stop, usually for city buses plumage native to southern Mexico, Central America and parado – stationary, or standing up, as you often are on northern South America; quetzal feathers were highly 2nd-class buses prized in pre-Hispanic Mexico parque nacional – national park; an environmentally Quetzalcóatl – plumed serpent god of pre-Hispanic protected area in which human exploitation is supposed to Mexico banned or restricted parroquia – parish church rebozo – long woolen or linen shawl covering the head paseo – boulevard, walkway or pedestrian street; the or shoulders tradition of strolling in a circle around the plaza in the refugio – a very basic cabin for shelter in the mountains evening, men and women moving in opposite directions regiomontano/a – person from Monterrey Pemex – government-owned petroleum extraction, reja – wrought-iron window grille refining and retailing monopoly reserva de la biosfera – biosphere reserve; an peña – evening of Latin American folk songs, often with a environmentally protected area where human exploitation political protest theme is steered toward sustainable activities peninsulares – those born in Spain and sent by the retablo – altarpiece; small ex-voto painting placed in a Spanish government to rule the colony in Mexico church to give thanks for miracles, answered prayers etc periférico – ring road río – river pesero – Mexico City’s word for colectivo; can mean bus in the northeast s/n – sin número (without number) used in street addresses petate – mat, usually made of palm or reed sacbé, sacbeob (pl) – ceremonial avenue(s) between peyote – a hallucinogenic cactus great Maya cities pinacoteca – art gallery salvavida – lifeguard piñata – clay pot or papier-mâché mold decorated to sanatorio – hospital, particularly a small private one resemble an animal, pineapple, star etc filled with sweets sanitario – literally ‘sanitary place’; toilet and gifts; smashed open at fiestas sarape – blanket with opening for the head, worn as a pirata – pirate; used to describe passenger-carrying cloak pickup trucks in some parts of Mexico Semana Santa – Holy Week; the week from Palm

GLOSSARY playa – beach Sunday to Easter Sunday; Mexico’s major holiday period plaza de toros – bullring when accommodations and transportation get very busy plazuela – small plaza servicios – toilets © Lonely Planet Publications GLOSSARY 1019 sierra – mountain range Tláloc – pre-Hispanic rain and water god sitio – taxi stand TLC – Tratado de Libre Comercio; the North American Free stela/stele, stelae/steles (pl) – standing stone monu- Trade Agreement (Nafta) ment, usually carved tope – speed bump; found on the outskirts of many supermercado – supermarket; anything from a small towns and villages, they are only sometimes marked by corner store to a large, US-style supermarket signs Sur – south; often seen in street names trapiche – mill; in Baja California usually a sugar mill tzompantli – rack for the skulls of Aztec sacrificial taller – shop or workshop; a taller mecánico is a mechan- victims ic’s shop, usually for cars; a taller de llantas is a tire-repair shop UNAM – Universidad Nacional Autónoma de México talud-tablero – stepped building style typical of (National Autonomous University of Mexico) Teotihuacán, with alternating vertical (tablero) and sloping universidad – university (talud) sections tapatío/a – person born in the state of Jalisco viajero/a – traveler taquilla – ticket window villa juvenil – youth sports center, often the location of telamon – statue of a male figure, used instead of a pillar an albergue de juventud to hold up the roof of a temple; an atlas voladores – literally ‘fliers’; Totonac ritual in which men, telar de cintura – backstrap loom; the warp (length- suspended by their ankles, whirl around a tall pole wise) threads are stretched between two horizontal bars, one of which is attached to a post or tree and the other War of Independence – war for Mexican independence to a strap around the weaver’s lower back, and the weft from Spain that lasted from 1810 to 1821 and ended three (crosswise) threads are then woven in centuries of Spanish rule teleférico – cable car War of the Castes – bloody, 19th-century Maya uprising teléfono (celular) – (cell/mobile) telephone in the Yucatán Peninsula temascal – pre-Hispanic–style steam bath, often used were-jaguar – half-human, half-jaguar being portrayed for curative purposes; sometimes spelt temazcal in Olmec art templo – church; anything from a chapel to a cathedral teocalli – Aztec sacred precinct yácata – ceremonial stone structure of the Tarascan Tezcatlipoca – multifaceted pre-Hispanic god; lord of civilization life and death and protector of warriors; as a smoking yugo – U-shaped, carved-stone object from the Classic mirror he could see into hearts, as the sun god he needed Veracruz civilization; connected with the ritual ball game the blood of sacrificed warriors to ensure he would rise again zaguán – vestibule or foyer; sometimes a porch tezontle – light red, porous volcanic rock used for zócalo – literally ‘plinth’; used in some Mexican towns to buildings by the Aztecs and conquistadores mean the main plaza or square tianguis – indigenous people’s market Zona Rosa – literally ‘Pink Zone’; a formerly glitzy, tienda – store expensive area of shops, hotels, restaurants and entertain- típico/a – characteristic of a region; particularly used to ment in Mexico City; by extension, a similar glitzy area in describe food another city GLOSSARY © Lonely Planet Publications. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content.’