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1 The Best of by David Baird, Lynne Bairstow, Juan Cristiano & Joy Hepp

Across Mexico, in villages and cities, in mountains, tropical coasts, and jungle set- tings, enchanting surprises await travelers. These might take the form of a fantastic small-town festival, delightful dining in a memorable restaurant, or even a stretch of road through heavenly countryside. Below is a starter list of our favorites, to which you’ll have the pleasure of adding your own discoveries.

1 The Best Beach Vacations • Puerto Vallarta: Spectacularly wide nightlife. See “Puerto Escondido,” in Banderas Bay is graced by 42km (26 chapter 11. miles) of sandy beach. Some, such as • Ixtapa/Zihuatanejo: These side-by- Playa Los Muertos—the popular side resorts afford beach-goers the public beach in town—abound with best of both worlds: serene simplicity palapa restaurants, volleyball players, and resort comforts. For travelers and parasailers. The beaches of Punta seeking to get back to basics, the best Mita, the exclusive development and most beautiful beach is Playa La north of Vallarta, have white-sand, Ropa, close to Zihuatanejo. The wide crystalline waters, and coral reefs just beach at Playa Las Gatas, with its offshore. Others around the bay nes- restaurants and snorkeling sites, is tle in coves, accessible only by boat. also a great place to play. The high- Puerto Vallarta is the only beach rise hotels in Ixtapa, on the next bay town in Mexico with an authentic over from Zihuatanejo, front Playa colonial feel as well as first-rate resort Palmar, a fine, wide swath of beach. amenities. See “Puerto Vallarta,” in See “Northward to Zihuatanejo & chapter 10. Ixtapa,” in chapter 11. • Puerto Escondido: The best overall • Cancún: Cancún and the coastline of beach value in Mexico is principally the Yucatán state of Quintana Roo known for its world-class surfing are home to Mexico’s most enticingly beach, COPYRIGHTEDPlaya Zicatela. The surround- beautiful MATERIAL beaches, with powdery ing beaches all have their own appeal; white-sand and water the color of a colorful fishing pangas dot the central Technicolor dream. Cancún also has town beach, parked under the shade the widest assortment of luxury of palms leaning over so far they beachfront hotels, plus more restau- almost touch the ground. Puerto rants, nightlife, and activities than Escondido offers unique accommo- any other resort destination in Mex- dations at excellent prices, with ico. See chapter 14. exceptional budget dining and 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 8

8 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO Mexico

TijuanaTijuana MexicaliMexicali UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES UNITED STATES EnsenadaEnsenada 2 BAJABAJA CiudadCiudad CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA JuárezJuárez NORTENORTE PuertoPuerto NogalesNogales PenascoPenasco SanSan 2 QuintinQuintin See Chapter 18 45 1 SONORASONORA 15 10 OjinagaOjinaga HermosilloHermosillo CHIHUAHUACHIHUAHUA GuerreroGuerrero ChihuahuaChihuahua 18 Piedras Negras IslaIsla NegroNegro 16 CedrosCedros GuaymasGuaymas 16 CiudadCiudad CuauhtémocCuauhtémoc COAHUILACOAHUILA SantaSanta ObregónObregón RosaliaRosalia DeliciasDelicias Nuevo Laredo MulegéMulegé Jiménez HidalgoHidalgo MonclovaMonclova BAJABAJA deldel ParralParral CALIFORNIACALIFORNIA 49 30 SURSUR LoretoLoreto LosLos LoretoLoreto MochisMochis 57 Matamoros 45 Monterrey SINALOASINALOA TorreónTorreón 40 DURANGODURANGO SaltilloSaltillo CuliacánCuliacán NUEVO 1 LEÓN LaLa PPazaz 15 See Chapter 7 SeaSea ofof CortésCortés DurangoDurango TAMAULIPAS See Chapter 19 40 FresnilloFresnillo 54 Ciudad Victoria TodosTodos SantosSantos SanSan JoséJosé MazatlánMazatlán deldel CaboCabo ZACATECASZACATECAS CaboCabo SanSan LucasLucas ZacatecasZacatecas SanSan Ciudad Mante 15 LuisLuis PotosíPotosí Tampico TuxpanTuxpan Río Lagartos Isla See Chapter 10 AGUASCALIENTESAGUASCALIENTES SAN LUIS Mujeres SanSan BlasBlas POTOSÍ Progreso TepicTepic AguascalientesAguascalientes Valladolid Cancún IslasIslas San Miguel Tuxpan Celestún NAYARITNAYARIT LeónLeón de Allende MariasMarias Mérida Cozumel GuadalajaraGuadalajara QUERÉTARO Playa del PuertoPuerto VallartaVallarta GuanajuatoGuanajuato Poza Rica YUCATÁN Carmen For Guadalajara, GUANA-GUANA- HIDALGO Papantla Querétaro Campeche Punta See Chapter 9 JALISCOJALISCO LakeLake CChapalahapala JUATOJUATO Pachuca QUINTANA Allen MoreliaMorelia Bay of BarraBarra dede NavidadNavidad UruapanUruapan Xalapa ROO TLAXCALA Campeche Bacalar ColimaColima Toluca CAMPECHE ManzanilloManzanillo Tlaxcala Majahual PátzcuaroPátzcuaro Peninsula COLIMACOLIMA MICHOACANMICHOACAN PUEBLA Orizaba Catemaco Chetumal TABASCO Escárcega 200 37 Tehuacán Taxco VERACRUZ Villahermosa LázaroLázaro Coatzacoalcos Palenque CárdenasCárdenas BELIZE San Cristóbal See Chapter 8 ZihuatanejoZihuatanejo Tuxtla & IxtapaIxtapa Gutiérrez de las Casas OAXACA PACIFICP A C I F I C Salina Comitan Cruz OCEANO C E A N Puerto Escondido Huatulco Puerto Ángel HONDURAS Tapachula EL SALVADOR

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THE BEST BEACH VACATIONS 9

Tijuana Mexicali UNITED STATES UNITEDUNITED SSTATESTATES Ensenada

BAJA Ciudad CALIFORNIA Juárez NORTE Puerto Nogales Penasco San Quintin

SONORA

Ojinaga Hermosillo CHIHUAHUA Guerrero Chihuahua PiedrasPiedras NegrasNegras Isla Negro Cedros Guaymas Ciudad Cuauhtémoc COAHUILA Santa Obregón Rosalia Delicias NuevoNuevo LaredoLaredo Mulegé Hidalgo Monclova BAJA del Parral CALIFORNIA 85 Los D SUR Loreto MatamorosMatamoros Loreto Mochis MonterreyMonterrey SINALOA Torreón Gulf of Mexico DURANGO Saltillo 180 Culiacán NUEVONUEVO LEÓNLEÓN La Paz 85 See Chapter 15 Sea of Cortés Durango TAMAULIPASTAMAULIPAS

Fresnillo CiudadCiudad VictoriaVictoria Todos Santos San José Mazatlán del Cabo ZACATECAS See Chapter 17 See Chapter 14 Cabo San Lucas Zacatecas San Luis CiudadCiudad MManteante Potosí TampicoTampico Tuxpan For Mexico City, RíoRío LagartosLagartos IslaIsla AGUASCALIENTES SANSAN LLUISUIS MujeresMujeres San Blas POTOSÍPOTOSÍ See Chapter 5 ProgresoProgreso Tepic Aguascalientes ValladolidValladolid CancúnCancún Islas SanSan MiguelMiguel TuxpanTuxpan CelestúnCelestún NAYARIT León dede AllendeAllende 180 Marias MéridaMérida D CozumelCozumel Guadalajara QUERÉTAROQUERÉTARO PlayaPlaya deldel Puerto Vallarta Guanajuato PozaPoza RicaRica See Chapter 13 YUCATÁNYUCATÁN CarmenCarmen GUANA- HIDALGOHIDALGO PapantlaPapantla 180 QuerétaroQuerétaro CampecheCampeche PuntaPunta JALISCO Lake Chapala JUATO PachucaPachuca 180 QUINTANAQUINTANA AllenAllen BayBay ooff Barra de Navidad MexicoMexico CCityity XalapaXalapa ROOROO TLAXCALATLAXCALA CampecheCampeche CAMPECHECAMPECHE BacalarBacalar Colima TolucaToluca TlaxcalaTlaxcala MajahualMajahual Manzanillo Pátzcuaro VeracruzVeracruz CuernavacaCuernavaca PueblaPuebla 261 PeninsulaPeninsula COLIMA MICHOACAN 186 PUEBLAPUEBLA OrizabaOrizaba CatemacoCatemaco ChetumalChetumal MORELOSMORELOS TABASCOTABASCO EscárcegaEscárcega TehuacánTehuacán VillahermosaVillahermosa TaxcoTaxco 95 VERACRUZVERACRUZ 186 See Chapter 16 Lázaro 190 CoatzacoalcosCoatzacoalcos GUERREROGUERRERO D 175 PalenquePalenque Cárdenas BELIZEBELIZE See Chapter 6 186 SanSan CristóbalCristóbal Caribbean Zihuatanejo OaxacaOaxaca TuxtlaTuxtla & Ixtapa GutiérrezGutiérrez dede laslas CasasCasas Sea AcapulcoAcapulco OAXACAOAXACA P A C I F I C 200 CHIAPASCHIAPAS SalinaSalina ComitanComitan CruzCruz GUATEMALAGUATEMALA O C E A N PuertoPuerto EscondidoEscondido HuatulcoHuatulco 200 PuertoPuerto Gulf of See Chapter 11 ÁngelÁngel Tehuantepec HONDURASHONDURAS TapachulaTapachula See Chapter 12 ELEL SALVADORSALVADOR 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 10

10 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO • Isla Mujeres: There’s only one main want more variety, you’ll find that beach here—Playa Norte—but it’s ancient Mayan ruins, Cozumel, and superb. From this island, you can the megaresort of Cancún are near dive El Garrafón reef, snorkel off- enough to round out your beach shore, and take a boat excursion to vacation. See “Playa del Carmen,” in the Isla Contoy national wildlife chapter 16. reserve, which features great birding • La Paz: This state capital borders a and a fabulous, uninhabited beach. lovely beach, dotted with colorful See “Isla Mujeres,” in chapter 15. playgrounds and lively open-air • Tulum: Fronting some of Mexico’s restaurants. Take a cue from the local best Caribbean beaches, Tulum’s residents, though, and pass on swim- small palapa hotels afford guests a lit- ming here in favor of the exquisite tle slice of paradise far from crowds beaches just minutes from down- and megaresorts. The bustling town town. La Paz’s beaches and the islets lies inland; the coast is quiet and just offshore have transformed this should remain so, because all the tranquil town into a center for div- hotels there are small and have to ing, sea kayaking, and other adven- generate their own electricity. If you ture pursuits. See “La Paz: Peaceful can pull yourself away from the surf, Port Town,” in chapter 19. you’ll find nearby ruins to explore • Los Cabos: Dramatic rock forma- and a vast nature preserve as well. See tions and crashing waves join forces chapter 16. with wide stretches of soft sand and • Playa del Carmen: “Playa” is Mex- rolling surf breaks. Start at Playa ico’s hip beach destination with a Palmilla and work your way down pronounced mañana attitude. Above the Tourist Corridor to the famed all, it’s easy and low key. You walk to Lovers’ Beach at Land’s End. Some the beach, you walk back to the hotel, beaches are more appropriate for con- you walk to one of the many good templation than for swimming, restaurants. Next day, you repeat. which isn’t all bad. See “Los Cabos: The sand is white; the water is clear Resorts, Watersports & Golf,” in blue and ideal for swimming. If you chapter 19.

2 The Best Cultural Experiences • Passing Time in the Plazas & Parks: Oaxaca’s zócalo (see chapter 12) is to All the world may be a stage, but the local citizenry; the plaza is remark- some stages have richer backdrops ably beautiful, grand, and intimate all than others. Town plazas are the place at once. Mexico City’s Alameda (see to sit and watch daily Mexican life chapter 5) has a dark, dramatic his- unfold before your eyes. Alive with tory—heretics were burned at the people, these open spaces are no mod- stake here during the colonial ern product of urban planners, but are period—but today it’s a people’s park rooted in the traditional Mexican where lovers sit, cotton-candy vendors view of society. Several plazas are spin their treats, and the sound of standouts: Veracruz’s famous zócalo organ grinders drifts over the chang- (see chapter 13) features nearly non- ing crowd. ’s stop music and tropical gaiety. One Jardín (see chapter 7) is the focal look tells you how important point for meeting, sitting, painting, 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 11

THE BEST ARCHAEOLOGICAL SITES 11 and sketching. During festivals, it fills good thing the buildings are stone with dancers, parades, and elaborate and cement, or the whole country fireworks. Guanajuato and Queré- would have burned down long ago. taro (see chapter 7) have the coziest Many local traditions surround fire- plazas, and Mérida’s El Centro (see works, and every festival includes a chapter 17), can’t be beat on Sundays. display. The most lavish are the large • Música Popular: Nothing reveals the constructions called castillos, and the soul of a people like music, and Mex- wildest are the toros that men carry ico has given rise to various styles, over their shoulders while running which you can hear in many different through the streets, causing festival- settings. You can hear brassy mari- goers to dive for cover. achi music in the famous Plaza de • Strolling El Malecón: Wherever Garibaldi in Mexico City (see chap- there’s a seafront road, you’ll find el ter 5), under the arches of El Parián malecón bordering it. This is generally in Tlaquepaque, and in other parts of a wide sidewalk for strolling, com- Guadalajara (see chapter 9). Or per- plete with vendors selling pinwheels haps you want to hear romantic and cotton candy. In some places, it boleros sung to the strumming of a has supplanted the plaza as a center- Spanish guitar, or what Mexicans call piece of town life. The best examples música tropical and related cumbias, are in Puerto Vallarta, Mazatlán (see mambos, and cha-cha-chas (see chap- chapter 10), La Paz (see chapter 19), ter 14). Cozumel (see chapter 15), and Ver- • Regional Folk Dancing: From the acruz (see chapter 13). Ballet Folklórico in Mexico City to • Regional Fairs: Almost every city the Ballet Folclórico in Guadalajara and town has its regional fair (feria (see chapters 5 and 9) or the almost- regional). They showcase the best nightly park dances in Mérida (see products of the region—tequila or chapter 17), Mexican folk dance fruit liquors, livestock, carved silver, events are diverse and colorful expres- or clay handicrafts. One of the most sions of Mexican traditions. notable regional fairs is La Feria del • Fireworks: Mexicans share such a Caballo in Texcoco, which takes place passion for fireworks and such a cav- in late March or early April. alier attitude toward them that it’s a

3 The Best Archaeological Sites * Teotihuacán: It’s so close to Mexico • Monte Albán: A grand ceremonial City, yet centuries away. You can city built on a mountaintop overlook- sense the majesty of the past in a ing the valley of Oaxaca, Monte Albán stroll down the pyramid-lined affords visitors panoramic vistas; a fas- Avenue of the Dead, from the Pyra- cinating view of a society in transition, mid of the Sun to the Pyramid of the reflected in the contrasting methods of Moon. Imagine what a fabulous place pyramid construction; and intriguing this must have been when the walls details in ornamentation. See “Oaxaca were stuccoed and painted brilliant City,” in chapter 12. colors. See “A Side Trip to the Pyra- • Palenque: Like the pharaohs of mids of San Juan Teotihuacán,” in Egypt, the rulers of Palenque built chapter 5. tombs deep within their pyramids. 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 12

12 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO Imagine the magnificent ceremony in stone carvings is awe-inspiring. A A.D. 683 when King Pacal was stone rattlesnake undulates across the entombed in his magnificent burial facade of the Nunnery complex, and chamber, which lay unspoiled until 103 masks of the rain god Chaac its discovery in 1952. See “Palenque,” project out from the Governor’s in chapter 12. Palace. See “The Ruins of Uxmal,” in • Ek Balam: Archaeologists at this site chapter 17. have made the most astonishing dis- • Chichén Itzá: Stand beside the giant coveries of the decade. Ek Balam’s serpent head at the foot of El Castillo main pyramid is taller than Chichén pyramid and marvel at the architects Itzá’s, and it holds a sacred doorway and astronomers who positioned the bordered with elaborate stucco fig- building so precisely that shadow and ures of priests and kings and rich sunlight form a serpent’s body slither- iconography. See “Ek Balam: Dark ing from the peak to the earth at each Jaguar,” in chapter 17. equinox (Mar 21 and Sept 21). See • Uxmal: No matter how many times “The Ruins of Chichén Itzá,” in you see Uxmal, the splendor of its chapter 17.

4 The Best Active Vacations • Scuba Diving in Cozumel & along canyon lands are paradise for the seri- the Yucatán’s Caribbean Coast: The ous hiker or rider. Canyon Travel coral reefs off Cozumel, Mexico’s pre- (& 800/843-1060 in the U.S.; www. mier diving destination, are among canyontravel.com) can set hikers up the top five dive spots in the world. with a Tarahumara Indian guide, who See chapter 15. The Yucatán’s coastal can take you deep into the canyons to reef is part of the second-largest reef places rarely viewed by tourists. Doug system in the world and affords excel- Rhodes of Paraíso del Oso (& 800/ lent diving. Especially beautiful is the 884-3107 in the U.S.) leads tours of Chinchorro Reef, 32km (20 miles) experienced horseback riders on a 12- offshore from Majahual or Xcalak. day ride that tests a rider’s skill in You can also dive in the clear, cool mountainous terrain. It has to be the water of the many caverns and cenotes most challenging ride in North (sinkholes, or natural wells) that dot America. See “The Copper Canyon the interior. See chapter 16. Other Train & Stops along the Way,” in excellent dive sites are in and around chapter 18. Puerto Vallarta and off Los Cabos. • Golf in Los Cabos & Puerto Val- See chapters 10 and 19. larta: Puerto Vallarta, with its seven • Fly-Fishing off the Punta Allen championship courses, is the new des- Peninsula: Serious anglers will enjoy tination for golfers to watch—and an the challenge of fly-fishing the salt- eighth course will open in fall of water flats and lagoons of Ascension 2008 with the addition of Punta Bay, near Punta Allen. See “Tulum, Mita’s second Jack Nicklaus Signature Punta Allen & Sian Ka’an,” in chap- course. Added to the appeal of golf ter 16. here are courses within easy driving • Hiking & Horseback Riding in the distance along the Pacific Coast at El Copper Canyon: Miles and miles Tamarindo, Isla Navidad, and Man- of beautiful, remote, challenging zanillo. See chapter 10. The Corridor between San José del Cabo and Cabo 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 13

THE BEST OF NATURAL MEXICO 13 San Lucas is one of the world’s pre- • Sportfishing in La Paz: Billfishing mier golf destinations, with seven for magnificent marlin and sailfish is championship courses and a total of popular in southern Baja, and La Paz 207 holes slated for the area. See pulls in the most consistent share. See chapter 19. chapter 19. Fishing is excellent in Los • Surfing Zicatela Beach in Puerto Cabos, Mazatlán, Manzanillo, and Escondido: This world-class break is Zihuatanejo too. See chapters 10, 11, a lure for surfers from around the and 19. globe. It challenges the best in the • Sea Kayaking in the Sea of Cortez: sport each September and October, From Cabo San Lucas to La Paz, and when the waves peak and the annual continuing north, the Sea of Cortez is surf competitions take place. See a sea kayaker’s dream. It has dozens of chapter 11. Other noted surf breaks tiny coves and impressive inlets to in Mexico include Sayulita, Punta pull into and explore, under the Mita, and Las Islitas Beach near San watchful gaze of sea lions and dol- Blas (all north of Puerto Vallarta); phins. Professional outfitters provide Playa Costa Azul, on the outskirts of gear, guides, and instruction for San José del Cabo; and “Killers” at novices. See chapter 19. Todos Santos Island in northern Baja. See chapters 10 and 19.

5 The Best of Natural Mexico • Michoacán’s Million Monarch communities along Mexico’s Pacific March: Mexico is an exotic land, and coast have established protected nest- no place drives this home more force- ing areas. Many are open for public fully than a mountain forest where viewing and participation in the egg you stand surrounded by the flutter- collection and baby-turtle release ing wings of millions of monarch processes. Turtles are found along the butterflies—it’s like being in a fairy Yucatán coast, in Baja Sur, on the tale. The setting is the rugged high- Oaxaca coast, in Puerto Vallarta, and lands of Michoacán, from mid- to on Costa Alegre. See chapters 10, 16, late November through March. See and 19. “Morelia,” in chapter 8. • Lago Bacalar (Yucatán Peninsula): • Whale-Watching: Each winter, The waters of this crystal-clear, between December and April, mag- spring-fed lake—Mexico’s second nificent humpback and gray whales largest—are noted for their vibrant return to breed and instruct their color variations, from pale blue to young in the waters of Banderas Bay, deep blue-green and turquoise. The fronting Puerto Vallarta, and in Los area surrounding the lake is known Cabos. See “Puerto Vallarta” in chap- for birding, with over 130 species ter 10, and “Los Cabos: Resorts, identified. See “Lago Bacalar” in Watersports & Golf,” in chapter 19. chapter 16. • Sea Turtle Nesting Beaches: • The Rugged Copper Canyon: The Between June and November, sea tur- canyons, known collectively as the tles return to the beaches of their Copper Canyon, are beautiful, birth to lay their eggs in nests on the remote, and unspoiled. The entire sand. With poaching and natural network is larger than the Grand predators threatening these species, 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 14

14 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO Canyon; it incorporates high water- plant life are a natural curiosity in falls, vertical canyon walls, mountain Los Cabos, where horseback, hiking, forests in the canyon-rim country, and and ATV trips explore the area. The semiarid desert inside the canyons. arid desert contrasts sharply with the This is the land of the Tarahumara intense blue of the strong sea sur- Indians, who gained their legendary rounding the peninsula. See “Los endurance from adapting to this Cabos: Resorts, Watersports & Golf,” wilderness. See chapter 18. in chapter 19. • Desert Landscapes in Baja Sur: The painted-desert colors and unique

6 The Best Places to Get Away from It All • Costa Alegre: Between Puerto Val- Punta Allen’s beachside budget inns larta and Manzanillo, a number of are among the most peaceful get- ultra-exclusive hotels cater to those aways in the country. See chapter 16. with both excessive time and money. • Lago Bacalar: The spring-fed waters These resorts, such as Hotelito of Lake Bacalar make an ideal place Desconocido, Las Alamandas, Hotel to unwind. South of Cancún, near Careyes, and El Tamarindo are miles Chetumal, there’s nothing around for from civilization on private beaches. miles. If you want adventure, you can See “Costa Alegre: Puerto Vallarta to paddle a kayak on the lake, follow a Barra de Navidad,” in chapter 10. birding trail, or venture to Belize or • San Sebastián: A 15-minute flight nearby Maya ruins. See “Lago from Puerto Vallarta takes you a cen- Bacalar,” in chapter 16. tury back in time. The colonial • Cerocahui: Up in the high Sierra mountain town of San Sebastián used Tarahumara, far from where the large to be the center of Mexico’s mining tours stop, you’ll find a peaceful little operations; today, it’s simply a place town surrounding a former mission. of delicious seclusion in a magical Nearby are two small hotels that are mountain setting. See “Puerto Val- even more peaceful—no phones, no larta,” in chapter 10. crowds, no traffic, just beautiful • Punta Mita: Its ancient inhabitants mountains and canyons clothed in considered the northern tip of the pine forest. See “The Copper Canyon Bay of Banderas sacred ground. Train & Stops along the Way,” in Today, the point where the Sea of chapter 18. Cortez, the Pacific Ocean, and Ban- • Cabo Pulmo: It’s only a 60-mile deras Bay meet has evolved into Mex- drive from the Los Cabos airport to ico’s most exclusive residential resort Cabo Pulmo, yet if the mounded development. The beaches are white Sierra de La Laguna peaks weren’t a and the waters crystalline. See dead giveaway for Baja, you could be “Puerto Vallarta,” in chapter 10. in the South Pacific. Swaying in the • Riviera Maya & Punta Allen Penin- shade of a palapa-roofed bungalow at sula: Away from the popular resort of Cabo Pulmo Beach Resort, you won’t Cancún, the Riviera Maya’s heavenly care where you are—you just won’t quiet getaways offer tranquillity at want to leave. The Sea of Cortez low prices on beautiful palm-lined breaks on a coral reef, allowing only beaches. South of the Tulum ruins, the finest bits of sand and smooth 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 15

THE BEST ART, ARCHITECTURE & MUSEUMS 15 pebbles to pad the coast. The coral hiking/mountain biking trails loop itself is a sight to behold, but the real through the mountains for those who attraction is the sea life in this prefer the peace of the desert. See protected marine park. Extensive chapter 19.

7 The Best Art, Architecture & Museums • Museo Nacional de Antropología: neoclassical, and Mexican chur- Among the world’s most outstanding rigueresque architecture, and was con- museums, the Museum of Anthropol- structed primarily from the stones of ogy in Mexico City contains riches destroyed Aztec temples. See p. 136. representing 3,000 years of the coun- • Santa Prisca y San Sebastián try’s past. Also on view are fabulous Church: One of Mexico’s most artifacts of still-thriving indigenous impressive churches, com- cultures. The award-winning building, pleted in 1758, this church in Taxco designed by architect Pedro Ramírez has an intricately carved facade, an Vázquez, is stunning. See p. 130. interior decorated with gold-leafed • Palacio Nacional: Mexico’s national saints and angels, and paintings by center of government overlooks one Miguel Cabrera, one of Mexico’s most of the three biggest public squares in famous colonial-era artists. See p. 166. the world (the zócalo) and was origi- • La Parroquia in San Miguel de nally built in 1692 on the site of Allende: Inspired by European Moctezuma’s “new” palace, to be the gothic, but lighter and more cheerful; home of Hernán Cortez. The top this fanciful church is like a fiesta floor, added in the late 1920s, holds a captured in stone—especially at night series of stunning Diego Rivera when it’s illuminated. See p. 196. murals depicting the history of Mex- • Murals of José Clemente Orozco in ico. See p. 132. Guadalajara: Of the great Mexican • Palacio de Bellas Artes in Mexico muralists of the Revolutionary City: The country’s premier venue period, Orozco is perhaps the most for the performing arts, this fabulous technical and the most expressive of building is the combined work of sev- his generation’s concerns. To see his eral masters. The exterior is early- image of Hidalgo bearing down on 20th-century Art Nouveau covered in you from the ceiling of the grand marble; the interior is 1930s Art staircase of the Palacio de Gobierno is Deco. See p. 134. to understand almost instantly what • The Templo Mayor’s Aztec Splen- he and his compañeros were striving to dor: The Templo Mayor and Museo accomplish. See p. 274. del Templo Mayor constitute an • Museo Virreinal de Guadalupe: Six archaeological excavation and kilometers (4 miles) southeast of museum with 6,000 objects on dis- Zacatecas in the small town of play. They showcase the variety and Guadalupe, this Franciscan convent splendor of the Aztec Empire as it and art museum holds a striking col- existed in the historic center of what lection of 17th- and 18th-century is now Mexico City. See p. 132. paintings by such masters as Miguel • Catedral Metropolitana: This tow- Cabrera and Cristóbal de Villalpando. ering cathedral, begun in 1567 and The expressive, dramatic works will finished in 1788, blends baroque, fascinate art lovers. See p. 238. 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 16

16 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO • Morelia’s Cathedral: Sober lines, • Museo Antropología de Xalapa: balanced proportions, a deft blending Along with the finest examples of of architectural styles, and monu- Olmec and sculpture and mental height—Morelia’s cathedral is ceramics, this museum includes the the most beautiful in the country. It’s best collection of the Olmec mega- built of brownish-pink stone that lithic heads. See p. 513. turns fiery rose in the late-afternoon • Puebla’s Capilla del Rosario: In the sun. See p. 252. church of Santo Domingo, this • Museo Pantaleón Panduro in chapel is a tour de force of baroque Tlaquepaque: The peoples of Mex- expression, executed in molded plas- ico have always placed a high value ter, carved wood, Talavera tile, and on pottery as a field of artistic gold leaf. The overall aim is to over- achievement. It’s a cultural continu- power the senses. See p. 500. ity that spans from pre-Columbian • Puebla’s Museo Amparo: This times to the present. And this museum contains a magnificent col- museum is perhaps the greatest sin- lection of pre-Columbian and colo- gle expression of this love for pot- nial art, which is beautifully tery. Its collection holds prized displayed. See p. 502. pieces from the yearly national ceramics competition. See p. 289.

8 The Best Shopping • Bazar del Sábado in San Angel: • Taxco Silver: Mexico’s silver capital, This festive Saturday market in and Taxco, has hundreds of stores featur- around Plaza San Jacinto in colonial ing fine jewelry and decorative San Angel, one of Mexico City’s more objects. See “Taxco: Cobblestones & exclusive southern neighborhoods, Silver,” in chapter 6. offers exceptional crafts of a more • in Puebla & sophisticated nature than you’ll see in Dolores Hidalgo: An inheritor of the most mercados. Furnishings, antiques, Moorish legacy of ceramics, Puebla and collectibles are also easy to find produces some of the most sought- in surrounding shops and street after dinnerware in the world. And the plazas. See p. 148. tiles produced there adorn building • Polanco, Mexico City: This fashion- facades and church domes throughout able neighborhood is noted for its the area. See chapter 13. Dolores designer boutiques, formal dress Hidalgo, 40km (25 miles) northwest shops, fine jewelers, and leather- of San Miguel de Allende, produces goods offerings. Avenida Presidente attractive, inexpensive Talavera of less Masaryk is Mexico City’s equivalent traditional design. See “San Miguel de of Rodeo Drive. See “Shopping,” in Allende,” in chapter 7. chapter 5. • San Miguel de Allende’s Diverse • Contemporary Art: Latin American Crafts: Perhaps it’s the influence of art is surging in popularity. Galleries in the Instituto Allende art school, but Mexico City feature Mexico’s masters something has given storekeepers here and emerging stars. Oaxaca, Puerto savvy about choosing their merchan- Vallarta, and San Miguel de Allende dise. The stores have fewer typical galleries also have excellent selections. articles of Mexican handicrafts and See chapters 5, 7, 10, and 12. more interesting and eye-catching 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 17

THE BEST LUXURY HOTELS 17 works than you’ll find in other towns. to remain faithful to their customs, See “San Miguel de Allende,” in chap- language, and traditions, the Hui- ter 7. chol Indians come down from the • Pátzcuaro’s Fine Crafts: Michoacán Sierra Madre to sell their unusual art is known for its crafts, and Pátzcuaro to Puerto Vallarta galleries. Inspired is at the center of it all. You can find by visions received during spiritual beautiful cotton textiles, woodcarv- ceremonies, the Huichol create their ings, pottery, , woven art with colorful yarn or beads straw pieces, and copper items in the pressed into wax. See “Shopping,” in market, or you can track the object to chapter 10. its source in one of the nearby vil- • Oaxacan Textiles: The valley of Oax- lages. See “Pátzcuaro,” in chapter 8. aca produces the best weavings and • Decorative Arts in Tlaquepaque & naturally dyed textiles in Mexico; it’s Tonalá: These two neighborhoods of also famous for its pottery, and color- Guadalajara offer perhaps the most ful, imaginative woodcarvings. See enjoyable shopping in Mexico. “,” in chapter 12. Tlaquepaque has attracted sophisti- • The Markets of San Cristóbal de cated and wide-ranging shops that las Casas: This city, deep in the heart sell a wide variety of decorative art. In of the Maya highlands, has shops, Tonalá, more than 400 artisans have open plazas, and markets that sell dis- workshops, and you can visit many of tinctive waist-loomed wool and cot- them; on market days, wander ton textiles, leather shoes, local through blocks and blocks of market pottery, genre dolls, and Guatemalan stalls to find that one perfect piece. textiles. See “San Cristóbal de las See “Shopping,” in chapter 9. Casas,” in chapter 12. • in Puerto Vallarta: One of the last indigenous cultures

9 The Best Luxury Hotels • Condesadf (Mexico City; & 55/ • W Mexico City (Mexico City; 5241-2600): The city’s trendiest & 877/946-8357 in the U.S.): Styl- hotel sits in the hip urban neighbor- ish and high-tech, this W is where the hood of Condesa. In an early 20th- young and cool come to stay. With its century French building, it combines super-caliente red hues and lively bar, Art Nouveau with contemporary the W Mexico City has infused the designs, and features one of the city’s country’s capital with a dose of mini- hottest restaurants and rooftop bars. malist urban chic. Luxury extras See p. 119. include expansive bathrooms with • Hotel Four Seasons (Mexico City; circular tubs. See p. 114. & 800/332-3442 in the U.S.): The • Villa Montaña (Morelia; & 800/ standard of excellence in Mexico, and 223-6510 in the U.S., or 800/448- the most classically luxurious option 8355 in Canada): The Villa Montaña in Mexico City, this hotel captures defines perfection. From the layout of serenity and elegance in a palace-style the grounds to the decoration of the building that surrounds a picturesque rooms, every detail has been skillfully courtyard. Bonuses include the gra- handled. The hotel perches on a ridge cious staff and unique cultural tours that overlooks Morelia; from its ter- on offer. See p. 116. races, guests can survey the city 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 18

18 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO below. The restaurant is one of the service is impeccable, leaving guests city’s best. See p. 256. with an overall sense of pampered • Four Seasons Resort Punta Mita relaxation. And, post–Hurricane (north of Puerto Vallarta; & 800/ Wilma, the Ritz received a significant 332-3442 in the U.S.): This luxury makeover. See p. 538. resort offers an unrivaled location (on • Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa a remote, pristine stretch of beach) (Cancún; & 800/543-4300 in the and the stellar service characteristic of U.S.): This is the most intimate of the Four Seasons chain. Also on-site the luxury hotels in Cancún, with an are an expansive spa and a private understated sense of highly personal- Jack Nicklaus Signature golf course. ized service. Most notable is its 4,570 See p. 340. sq. m (49,190-sq.-ft.) Spa del Mar. • El Tamarindo (between Manzanillo See p. 537. and Puerto Vallarta; & 315/351- • JW Marriott (Cancún; & 800/223- 5032): The most exclusive remote 6388 in the U.S.): This extraordinary resort in Mexico, this stylish place resort offers sophistication without combines large private casitas facing pretense. Its free-form infinity pool is the Pacific with a stunning private one of the most impressive anywhere, oceanfront golf course. Guests are and the spa is one of Cancún’s best. likely to be Hollywood celebrities Service is outstanding. See p. 537. and rich folk from around the world. • Presidente InterContinental Cozu- It’s about 1 hour north of Manzanillo mel (Cozumel; & 800/327-0200 in along Costa Alegre. See p. 362. the U.S., or 987/872-9500; www. • La Casa Que Canta (Zihuatanejo; cozumel.intercontinental.com): & 888/523-5050 in the U.S.): This Redesigned after the hurricane, this is one of Mexico’s most romantic second edition of the hotel includes spots, an unforgettable boutique some impressive upgrades, including hotel where music plays throughout redesigned rooms, a large second the open-air corridors. Palapa-style pool, and more services. And, as guest rooms have their own furnished before, it has all that coastline where outdoor terraces, many with private you can stretch out on some sand and plunge pools overlooking the sea. forget about life back home for a The food, service, and amenities here while. See p. 582. are as good as it gets. See p. 414. • Maroma (north of Playa del Carmen; • The Tides (Zihuatanejo; & 888/ & 866/454-9351 in the U.S.): You 389-2645 in the U.S.): This stun- can’t ask for a better setting for a ning hotel sits on one of Mexico’s resort than this beautiful stretch of calmest and most beautiful beaches. Caribbean coast with palm trees and Modern rooms and suites overlook manicured gardens. You’ll start to the bay or a man-made lagoon, and relax before you even take the first sip many have private plunge pools. It’s a of your welcome cocktail. Service is luxurious retreat you won’t want to very attentive, and the rooms are lux- leave. See p. 414. urious. See p. 592. • Ritz-Carlton Cancún (Cancún; • Xcanatún (outskirts of & 800/241-3333 in the U.S.): Mérida; & 888/883-3633 in the Thick carpets, sparkling glass and U.S.): Large, boldly designed suites brass, and rich mahogany surround built with extravagance in mind, guests at this hotel, for years the stan- extensive grounds, private spa, excel- dard-bearer of luxury in Cancún. The lent restaurant, and ample staff—this 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 19

THE BEST INEXPENSIVE INNS 19 hotel does the difficult trick of being rooms are enhanced by ample ter- small in size but large in offerings. See races, and the resort’s spa and dining “Of & Hotels,” on p. 642. services make a stay here even more • Las Ventanas al Paraíso (Los Cabos; memorable. See p. 713. & 888/767-3966 in the U.S.): Stun- • One&Only Palmilla (Los Cabos; ning in its relaxed elegance, Las Ven- & 800/637-2226 in the U.S.): A tanas has a deluxe European spa, popular Mexican resort with the Hol- excellent gourmet restaurant, and ele- lywood crowd, the completely reno- gantly appointed rooms and suites. vated Palmilla has reclaimed its rank From fireplaces and telescopes to as the most deluxe hotel in this sea- private pools and rooftop terraces, side playground known for sumptu- each suite offers a slice of heaven. See ous quarters and great golf. The p. 713. exceptional spa, fitness center, and • Esperanza (Los Cabos; & 866/311- yoga garden, as well as a restaurant 2226 in the U.S.): This Auburge under the direction of renowned chef resort pampers guests in a desert-chic Charlie Trotter, are added bonuses. setting, on a bluff overlooking twin See p. 714. coves below. Spacious, sumptuous

10 The Best Inexpensive Inns • Best Western Hotel Majestic club for Hollywood’s elite, this hotel (Mexico City; & 800/528-1234 in will enchant you with its pervasive the U.S.): This historic building and midcentury charm, funky profusion former home of Augustinian friars of hot pink, and breathtaking cliff- offers exceptionally clean, comfort- top views. See p. 396. able, value-priced lodgings. It’s on La • Paraíso Escondido (Puerto Escon- Alameda park, near the Palace of Fine dido; & 954/582-0444): This eclec- Arts and the Franz Mayer Museum. tic inn is a great bargain, especially See p. 118. for the originality of the decor and • Holiday Inn Zócalo (Mexico City; the excellent service. It’s a short walk & 888/465-4329 in the U.S.): This to the beach and the action along unique Holiday Inn is one of the Puerto’s main drag. See p. 428. city’s most charming hotels. Located • Misión de los Arcos (Huatulco; next to the capital’s historic central & 958/587-0165): Just 1 block from square, it’s decorated in a colonial the central plaza, this hotel has a sim- Mexican style with colorful art, ilar style to the elegant Quinta Real, antiques, and handicrafts. See p. 119. at a fraction of the cost. An all-white • Hotel San Francisco Plaza facade and intriguing decorative (Guadalajara; & 33/3613-8954): touches give it an inviting feel. This two-story colonial-style hotel is There’s shuttle service to the Huat- a more agreeable place to stay than ulco beaches. See p. 441. lodgings that cost twice the price, and • Las Golondrinas (Oaxaca; & 951/ it’s every bit as comfortable. It’s in the 514-3298): We receive more favorable downtown area, near the main plaza letters about this hotel than about any and several good restaurants and other in the country. It’s small, simple, nightspots. See p. 280. and colorful, with homey touches of • Hotel Los Flamingos (Acapulco; folk art and pathways lined with abun- & 744/482-0690): Once a private dant foliage. See p. 459. 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 20

20 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO • Casa Na-Bolom (San Cristóbal; friendly setting. Amid a tropical gar- & 967/678-1418): This beautiful den, it’s a welcome respite from the colonial house was once the home party-hearty crowd, with sunny and office of Frans and Trudy Blom rooms, warm service, yoga and medi- and a gathering place for anthropolo- tation classes, and healthful dining. gists interested in the region’s various See p. 541. ethnic groups. It is now a museum • Cabo Inn (Cabo San Lucas; & 619/ and library full of materials about the 819-2727 in the U.S. or 624/143- region and its indigenous peoples. 0819): This former bordello is the Rooms have fireplaces and are deco- area’s best budget inn. Rooms are rated in local fashion. See p. 486. small but extra clean and invitingly • Rey del Caribe Hotel (Cancún; decorated, amenities are generous, & 998/884-2028): An ecological and the owner-managers are friendly oasis in downtown Cancún, this hotel and helpful. Ideally located, close to has considered every detail to achieve town and near the marina, the inn an organic and environmentally caters to sportfishers. See p. 726.

11 The Best Spa Resorts • El Santuario Resort Spa (Valle de • Hotel Ixtapan Spa and Golf Resort Bravo; & 726/262-9100): The suites (Ixtapan; & 800/638-7950 in the at this spa resort, built into the foot U.S.): In operation since 1939, this of a quartz mountain, overlook a vast resort is a classic, traditional spa with lake. A 1,858-sq.-m (20,000-sq.-ft.) consistently upgraded amenities and spa offers a wealth of therapies, plus services. It’s also close to the region’s yoga, Pilates, Tai Chi, and meditation renowned thermal baths. See p. 172. classes. See p. 174. • Le Méridien Cancún Resort & Spa • Misión Del Sol Resort & Spa (Cancún; & 800/543-4300 in the (Cuernavaca; & 777/321-0999 in U.S.): The Spa del Mar is a state-of- the U.S.): Mexico’s finest spa resort, the-art, 1,400 sq. m (15,069-sq.-ft.) with every architectural and func- facility bordering the brilliant tional detail designed to soothe body Caribbean. It boasts the most com- and soul—from meditation rooms to plete spa in the area, with inhalation reflexology showers to magnets under rooms, saunas, steam, Jacuzzis, cold your mattress. The sumptuous, full- plunges, Swiss showers, a cascading service spa and fitness center and waterfall whirlpool, and 14 treatment delicious vegetarian cuisine make this rooms. See p. 537. a heavenly base for personal renewal. • ME (Cancún; & 866/436-3542 in See p. 182. the U.S.): The ultrachic Yhi Spa of • Paradise Village (Nuevo Vallarta; Cancún’s new ME hotel overlooks & 800/995-5714): Excellent fitness the ocean and offers body glows and facilities combined with pampering- exfoliations, aromatherapy massages, yet-affordable spa services make this body masks, and wraps—this is a one of the best all-around spas in place to indulge yourself until you’re Mexico. It actively promotes the ben- convinced that you’ve landed in eficial properties of indigenous Mexi- heaven. See p. 540. can spa therapies and natural • Casa de los Sueños Resort & Spa treatments. See p. 337. Zenter (Isla Mujeres; & 998/877- 0651). This luxury B&B has a small 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 21

THE BEST MEXICAN FOOD & DRINK 21 but well-appointed spa and “Zenter,” Home to Mexico’s most extravagant which is also accessible to nonguests. spa, 13 private treatment rooms set Highlights include yoga classes, mas- amid gardens offer the most pamper- sages, and holistic spa treatments, ing array of services, complemented which take place either indoors or by a yoga garden, fitness center, and out, in one of the most tranquil classes designed to put you in touch places you’ll find. See p. 564. with—or indulge—your inner self. • The Tides Riviera Maya (& 800/ See “The Best Luxury Hotels” above, 578-0281 in the U.S. and Canada); and p. 714. Maroma (& 866/454-9351 in the • Rancho La Puerta (Baja Norte; U.S.); and Paraíso de la Bonita & 800/443-7565 in the U.S.): One (& 866/751-9175 in the U.S.): The of Mexico’s best-known spas, Rancho area north of Playa del Carmen, La Puerta is a spa-vacation pioneer, around Puerto Morelos, is a hotbed having opened its doors (at the time, of spa-resort luxury. These three tent flaps) in 1940. A steady stream establishments, in lovely settings, of guests returns to this pristine offer guests an impressive range of countryside for the constantly pampering treatments. See p. 593, expanding facilities, spa services, and 592, and 593, respectively. outdoor opportunities. See p. 755. • One&Only Palmilla (Los Cabos; & 800/637-2226 in the U.S.):

12 The Best Mexican Food & Drink • Aguila y Sol (Mexico City; & 55/ menu describes each dish in Spanish 5281-8354): One of the world’s best couplets. See p. 282. Mexican restaurants, the recently • Adobe Fonda (Tlaquepaque; & 33/ expanded Aguila y Sol serves haute 3657-2792): Delicious Mexican Mexican cuisine incorporating food is served inside one of those gor- indigenous and pre-Hispanic ingredi- geous decorative arts stores that line ents. Acclaimed chef-owner Martha Tlaquepaque’s Calle Independencia. Ortiz has written many cookbooks, The point of departure for the food is and her magical dishes brim with with some uncommon Mexican imagination. See p. 121. recipes, which are then given • La Opera (Mexico City; & 55/5512- sparkling Italian and Argentine 8959): This legendary cantina, in the accents. See p. 281. style of an opulent European cafe, has • El Arrayán (Puerto Vallarta; & 322/ attracted the capital’s most illustrious 222-7195): The colorful atmosphere personalities for decades—Pancho may be casual, funky, and fun, but Villa shot a still-visible hole through the food is seriously and authentically the roof. In the historic center, it Mexican. The owner, Carmen, has doubles as a restaurant, but it’s best taken her prime beef filet tacos off the as a late afternoon watering hole. See menu—wanting guests to try more p. 125. traditional Mexican fare—but you • El Sacromonte (Guadalajara; & 33/ can still ask for them. Or, take her 3825-5447): Various dishes delight cue and order the duck confit, the senses with novel tastes and tex- shrimp pozole, or homemade ice tures and skillful presentation. The creams from indigenous fruits. Don’t 05 285619-ch01.qxp 7/22/08 10:51 AM Page 22

22 CHAPTER 1 . THE BEST OF MEXICO miss her martini made from raicilla, in the restaurant’s lovely garden patio. Mexico’s version of moonshine. See See p. 546. p. 327. • Mariscos Villa Rica Mocambo (Ver- • El Mirador (Acapulco, in the Hotel acruz; & 229/922-2113): Nobody Plaza Las Glorias; & 744/483-1221 else does seafood the way Veracruz in the U.S.): You can enjoy a great does seafood, and this restaurant is margarita at many places in Mexico, the showcase for the region’s cuisine. but this is the only one that serves See p. 522. them with a view of the spectacular • La Pigua (Campeche; & 981/811- La Quebrada cliff divers. See p. 389. 3365): Campeche’s regional specialty • Zibu (Acapulco; & 744/433-3058): is seafood, and nowhere else will you This chic open-air restaurant com- find seafood like this. Mexican caviar, bines Mexican and Thai architectural coconut-battered shrimp, and chilies and culinary styles to create one of stuffed with shark are just a few of the the nation’s best dining experiences, specialties. Thinking about La Pigua’s including a breathtaking view of the pompano in a fine green herb sauce sea. See p. 398. makes me want to start checking • Los Flamingos (Acapulco; & 744/ flight schedules. See p. 665. 482-0690): If you’re in Acapulco on • Don Emiliano (downtown San José a Thursday, you can enjoy a bowl of del Cabo; & 624/142-0266): Don pozole, a traditional hominy and meat Emiliano wields farm-fresh ingredi- stew. Although you’ll find it served at ents laced with Mexican tradition and lunchtime throughout town, the best emerges from the kitchen with mod- place to savor it is at Los Flamingos’ ern delights such as stepped-up chile cliff-top restaurant. Order a Coco en nogada for Día de Independencia Loco to accompany it, and you’re in and lemon atole with candied pump- for a real treat. See p. 396. kin for Day of the Dead. Apart from • La Habichuela (Cancún City; holiday menus, don’t miss the regular & 998/884-3158): In Cancún’s menu, which combines the likes of original downtown, this gourmet locally made cheeses with roasted seafood restaurant is a romantic tomatillos and dried hibiscus flowers retreat off the beaten path. An expert with beef tenderloin. See p. 710. waitstaff attends to the diners seated