The Wild Cascades The Journal of the Conservation Council Spring/Summer 2016

visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  1 The North Cascades Conservation Council was THE WILD CASCADES  Spring/Summer 2016 formed in 1957 “To protect and preserve the North Cascades’ scenic, 3 President’s report — Tom Hammond scientific, recreational, educational, and wilderness values.” Continuing 4 NCCC Actions November 2015 - April 2016 this mission, NCCC keeps government 5 Betty Manning memorial officials, environmental organiza- tions, and the general public informed 6 Alpine Lakes dam projects begin scoping — Karl Forsgaard about issues affecting the Greater Lawsuit closes ATV routes on national forest roads — Karl Forsgaard North Cascades Ecosystem. Action is Time to renew? pursued through administrative, legal, 7 Military to reconsider helicopter training sites in Cascades — Rick and public participation channels to McGuire protect the lands, waters, plants and 8 New board member Scott Crain wildlife. Lands Commissioner Goldmark to step down — Rick McGuire Over the past half century NCCC 9 North Fork Skykomish road to reopen? — Rick McGuire has led or participated in campaigns to create the North Cascades National 10 Celebrating 100 years of national parks the best way I know how — Tom Park Complex, Glacier Peak Wilder- Hammond ness, and other units of the National 13 celebrates 40 years — Rick McGuire Wilderness System from the W.O. 14 Wild Nearby exhibit opens at Burke Museum Douglas Wilderness north to the Join the NCCC work party October 1 Alpine Lakes Wilderness, the Henry M. Jackson Wilderness, the Chelan-Saw- 15 The restoration of grizzly bears to the North Cascades — the North Cas- tooth Wilderness, the Wild Sky Wil- cades Ecosystem Grizzly Bear Recovery EIS Team derness and others. Among its most 17 NCCC responds dramatic victories has been working Kennecott mine opposition poster — 50 years ago with British Columbia allies to block the raising of Ross Dam, which would 18 hunting habitat affects viewing of national park wolves have drowned Big Beaver Valley. 19 North Cascades Institute’s 30th anniversary picnic NCCC is supported by member dues 21 Under the weight of ice — Thom Schroeder and private donations. These contri- 22 About artist Jill Pelto butions support the full range of the 23 Membership application Council’s activities, including publica- tion of The Wild Cascades. As a 501(c) FRONT: Salmon Population Decline by artist Jill Pelto. Read about Jill and her (3) organization, all contributions art on page 22. are fully tax deductible to the extent allowed by law. Membership dues for The Wild Cascades one year are: Living Lightly/Student $10; Individual $30; Family $50; Sus- Journal of the North Cascades Conservation Council taining $100. Editor: Anne Basye Editorial Board: Philip Fenner, Anders Forsgaard, North Cascades Tom Hammond, and Rick McGuire Conservation Council P.O. Box 95980 Printing by Abracadabra Printing | Pat Hutson, Designer University Station The Wild Cascades is published three times a year (Winter, Spring/Summer, Fall). Seattle, WA 98145-2980 Letters, comments, and articles are invited, subject to editorial review. NCCC Website The Wild Cascades Editor www.northcascades.org [email protected] North Cascades Conservation Council PO Box 95980, University Station, Seattle, WA 98145-2980

The Wild Cascades is printed on recycled paper.

2  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 NCCC Board

Officers president Tom Hammond vice president Founded in 1957 Carolyn McConnell SEATTLE, treasurer Tom Brucker The President’s Report spring/summer 2016 secretary Marc Bardsley Laura Zalesky passed on May 18th at the age of 92. This issue of The Wild Cascades was essentially in print at the time, so stay tuned to the next issue for Other Directors tributes. Laura stands as one of the great conservationists of our time, and it has been an honor to work with her and call her friend. Scott Crain Thanks to Scott Crain for answering our call and joining the board—see page Polly Dyer 8 for a bit of his story. Please join the NCCC in celebrating 100 years of National Parks. As you’ll see Philip Fenner in this edition of The Wild Cascades, and in the next as well, we’ll be paying attention to the centennial anniversary of what has been called “The (United Dave Fluharty States’) Greatest Idea” in Ken Burns’ excellent documentary on our National Parks. Anders Forsgaard Greatest idea indeed: preserving the natural character and ability of the Karl Forsgaard landscape for all living things because such preservation is important. Perhaps the greatest importance of the National Park concept is that it is now world-wide: Ed Henderson nations across the planet have recognized the wisdom of preserving the natural world, and have taken steps to do so. Rick McGuire On a more local scale, the NCCC has met with the National Park service staff twice in the past couple of months to discuss grizzly bear recovery, helicopter Thom Peters use in Wilderness and our upcoming work party. You’re invited to join us on Thom Schroeder October 1—we will be removing invasive plants and planting natives at Diablo overlook, or (if bad weather) working in the Miller Greenhouse at the ranger station in Marblemount. See details on page 11 and RSVP. We thank the staff of Advisors North Cascades National Park for taking the time to meet with us. On a personal scale, I have been fortunate enough to visit North Cascades Charles Ehlert National Park twice and Olympic National Park once in the past several weeks, where my brother and I saw dozens of California gray whales cavorting within Kevin Geraghty a hundred meters of the beach over the course of four days—morning noon and night! We are fortunate to live in a place surrounded by natural wonders Fayette Krause and beauty, and in a nation that recognizes the importance of Wilderness preser- Dave LeBlanc vation: not for the sake of human gain, but to support all life forms. The North Cascades Conservation Council was formed in 1957 with the spe- cific mission of getting a National Park created in our North Cascades. Subsequent to realizing this goal with the signing of the law in 1968, the board of the NCCC considered disbanding the organization a number of times from the late 1960s through the present. At each consideration, we’ve asked ourselves if we provide value to the preservation of Wilderness and wilderness character in the North Cascades, and each time the answer has been and continues to be a resounding “Yes!” There is a need for all-volunteer advocates, and the board and I thank each and every member for your continued support.

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visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  3 EXPANDING, PROMOTING ESTABLISHING, ENVIRONMENTALLY and PROTECTING SOUND RECREATION NCCC WILDERNESS AREAS IN WILD AREAS Why it matters: federal land designation Why it matters: balancing access with Actions as Wilderness and Park is the gold economics and Wilderness preservation, standard of ecosystem protection, we evaluate motorized use and places precluding most damaging industrial and where it needs to be limited to reduce commercial exploitation. land impacts and recurring road repair november 2015 costs. to april 2016 Attended public meeting of the Icicle Work Group, a Chelan County Participated in a discussion panel Department of Natural Resources  at the University of Washington Advocacy carried out by and Ecology effort to increase irri- Film Club/Scarecrow Video presen- gation water storage in eight lakes tation of Chasing Ice, a film about dedicated NCCC volunteers in the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. climate change and the retreat of glaciers. in the last six months to Met with staff of the North Cas-  cades National Park to discuss Presented a lecture at the Univer- protect and preserve the issues of joint concern and organi- sity of Washington at Bothell on zational relationships. the retreat and measurement of North Cascades lands, North Cascade Glaciers. Joined Wilderness Watch in signing waters, plants, and wildlife.  joint letter to all members of Con- Submitted comments to the Dar- gress opposing amendment to the rington Collaborative supporting Wilderness Act to allow bicycles in some elements of their proposals congressionally designated Wilder- and opposing others. ness. Published an article on the retreat and measurement of North Cas- cade Glaciers in The Mountaineer magazine.

4  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 PROTECTING ANCIENT FORESTS AND PROTECTING WILDLIFE PROMOTING RESPONSIBLE FOREST AND HABITAT MANAGEMENT Why it matters: from microscopic fungi to top predators, the wilderness ecosystem’s Why it matters: like real estate, they’re just not making ancient forest anymore. We living members are interdependent, so seek to restore watersheds and fisheries damaged from decades of heavy logging and keeping viable populations of each species road building and protect significant forests from degradation. is essential to preserve the ecosystem for future generations. Signed joint letter commenting on ATM issued under the Sustainable the scope of the environmental Roads Strategy. NCCC advocated Signed joint letter to the WA State impact to be evaluated, project keeping open and maintaining only  Department of Ecology opposing area of 65,000 acres, 6,700 acres to the mileage of roads with the avail- revision of the instream flow rule be thinned, of the proposed South able budget. for Snohomish Public Utility’s pro- Fork Stillaguamish Vegetation Man- posed Sunset Falls hydroelectric Signed joint letter to the U.S. Sen- agement Project. plant on the Skykomish River. ate opposing inclusion of Senate Submitted scoping comments on Bill S-1694 (promoting the Yakima Signed joint letter to the WA State the proposed Greenwater River Integrated Plan) to the Energy Om-  congressional delegation support- Access Travel Management (ATM) nibus Bill. ing funding for the Legacy Roads to the Snoqualmie Ranger District and Trails (LRT) program. of the Mount Baker Snoqualmie Submitted comments on the National Forest. Chewuch Transportation Plan draft Attended meeting of the Washing- Environmental Assessment to the ton Watersheds Group to discuss Commented on the Draft ATM for Methow Valley Ranger District. LRT distribution of the $40 million the Upper North Fork of the Nook- 2015 appropriation and future re- Submitted comments on salvage sack River on the Mount Baker quest. District of the Mount Baker Sno- logging in the Methow Valley and qualmie National Forest—the first Tonasket Districts. Joined the Washington Forest Law Center and other conservation organizations in signing joint letter Betty Manning memorial to the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service urging strong protections for re- maining marbled murrelet habitat. Sunday, August 28, 2016 1:00 to 3:30 pm The Mountaineers 7700 Sand Point Way NE Seattle, WA 98115 Please RSVP to [email protected] by July 24

visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  5 Alpine Lakes dam projects begin scoping By Karl Forsgaard

Alpine Lakes Wilderness is at risk of joint comment letter. We appreciate the ir- federal process has not started, we antici- future water development. As previously rigators’ need for water to irrigate their or- pate that the Forest Service will monitor reported (TWC Winter 2015), two govern- chards and keep them productive. We do public input, and will initiate project-level ment agencies (State Department of Ecol- not object to the exercise of valid, existing analysis when triggered. ogy and Chelan County) are now evaluat- water rights of the Icicle-Peshastin Irriga- The existing diversions of water are ing whether to build dams, manipulate tion District, but we question an assertion familiar to visitors, as described in 100 water levels, and issue water rights from of water rights that have been relinquished Hikes in Washington’s Alpine Lakes, by Ira lakes in the Wilderness: Colchuck, or are otherwise invalid. While we appre- Spring, Vicky Spring and Harvey Manning Eightmile, Upper and Lower , Nada, ciate the goal to improve instream flows in (Mountaineers Books, 3rd Ed. 2000): Lower Klonaqua and Square Lakes. At least , it is contradictory to exploit for the time being, they have dropped one natural area under the guise of en- “Like a bathtub, water is drained their proposal to drain an eighth lake, hancing another, particularly when other through a hole in the bottom of the Upper Klonaqua, by installing a siphon or options are available. We urged that the upper lake (which thus has a fluctuat- pump or blasting a tunnel between Upper EIS include a full range of alternatives, in- ing shoreline) and is used to guarantee and Lower Klonaqua Lake. One of their cluding a Wilderness Protection alternative a pure intake for the Leavenworth Fish goals is to extract more water for “new (not seeking any increase in the amount Hatchery; probably few people imag- home construction” in the Wenatchee Val- of water removed from the Wilderness); a ined, when the fishy business was per- ley. They also claim to solve instream flow Water Right Relinquishment alternative; petrated back in the 1930s, that Snow problems in Icicle Creek near the Leaven- a Water Conservation alternative; and a Lakes and unmolested pristinity of worth National Fish Hatchery to protect Water Right Change alternative (moving wilderness would become so treasured tribal fishing rights and improve irrigation irrigators’ point of diversion downstream by so many as they are.” reliability. to the Wenatchee River). More information, including environ- In May 2016, the agencies concluded a The Wilderness is managed by the U.S. mental documents, can be found on the public comment period for scoping under Forest Service, which must also prepare an agency websites: the State Environmental Policy Act. NCCC environmental analysis to ensure protec- http://www.co.chelan.wa.us/natural- was one of 40 parties that submitted a tion of wilderness values. Although this resources/pages/icicle-work-group

Lawsuit closes ATV routes on national forest roads By Karl Forsgaard Time to renew??

Alpine Lakes Protection Society, Kit- roads to WATV use without first comply- On the mailing panel on the titas Audubon and Sierra Club achieved a ing with the National Environmental back cover of TWC is the line, favorable settlement of their lawsuit to halt Policy Act (NEPA) and specified sections the Forest Service opening of 350 miles of the Travel Management Rule (36 CFR “Your subscription expires….” of roads across the Okanogan-Wenatchee 212.51-212.57). The Forest Service will If the date has passed, please National Forest to wheeled all-terrain pay plaintiffs’ attorney fees and costs. The consider bringing your mem- vehicles (WATVs). In June 2015, the WATV court will retain jurisdiction until 90 days routes were opened, and the lawsuit was after Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest bership up to date. And if filed in federal court in Seattle. As previ- issues its Travel Management decision for by chance our membership ously reported (TWC Fall 2015), the WATV the whole Forest. records are wrong, please let routes were closed in September 2015. Okanogan-Wenatchee National Forest The settlement agreement was part of has not yet completed its decade-long us know at a stipulated order of dismissal entered by Travel Management process, begun in the court in March 2016. The settlement November 2005. NCCC has actively partici- [email protected] accomplishes the goals of the litigation pated throughout the Travel Management while securing the recourse of judicial process, and we are pleased that the For- review should the Forest Service fail to est won’t exempt these WATV routes from comply with the settlement terms. The the public process. Forest Service agreed it will not open any

6  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 Military to reconsider helicopter training sites in Cascades By Rick McGuire

After a huge outcry from conservation- reconsider its choice of sites. The letter at the entire state of Washington for suit- ists and recreationists, commanders at was quickly and eagerly signed on to by able landing sites. The Cascades are the Joint Base Lewis McChord (JBLM) will almost every conservation and moun- only place in the state where much high reconsider their choices for helicopter tain recreation organization in the state, altitude terrain can be found, but they are training “mountain warfare” landing sites including NCCC. Senator Patty Murray a big mountain chain, and hopefully mili- in the Cascades. also stepped in to call for an extended tary planners will be able to find the kind Some months ago, the military sud- comment period. Many other comments of terrain they want in less frequented denly announced they would be moving poured in, almost all opposed to the plan parts of the range. Conservationists, and part or all of their high-altitude helicopter as presented. pretty much anyone who cares about the training from Colorado to the Cascades. Military commanders at JBLM appear to Cascades, are hoping the next proposal, Many of the places chosen for landing sites have gotten the message. The initial plan whatever it might be, will avoid high-use were in popular, much-used recreational has been withdrawn, and conservation- areas and areas close to Seattle. The hope areas. More than one was actually located ists are waiting, fingers crossed, to see is that the military will take better account directly on top of Forest Service trails. what will replace it. Reports indicate that of the many conservation, wildlife and Some were located near the Lake Chelan– they will still be moving part or all of the recreation values of the Cascades. Sawtooth Wilderness. One particularly training from Colorado, and are looking objectionable site was atop Icicle Ridge near Leavenworth, just within the Alpine Lakes Wilderness. No one in the conservation or recre- ation communities had been consulted by Bell UH-1 “Huey” helicopter, well the military about these sites. The number known for its roles in Vietnam as of flights would be substantial, and they “guns,” (gunships,) and “slicks,” would occur night and day throughout the (troopships.) After 60 years of year. It is not clear just why the decision to service it is still considered one relocate the training area from Colorado of the best helicopter designs to the Cascades was made. ever. With its powerful, and very innovative for the time, jet turbine Almost all mountains in Colorado are engine spinning the rotor tips at many thousands of feet higher than those supersonic speeds, its “wup-wup- in the Cascades. It would seem that the wup”, audible from miles away, much higher mountains of Colorado became the signature sound of the would be better suited for assessing and war in Vietnam. Heavily armed learning how to deal with the effects of with gatling guns, machine guns high altitudes on both people and ma- and rockets, Hueys terrified the chinery. Many summits in the Cascades natives until they learned that are not even as high as valley bottoms in they were vulnerable to concentrated and well aimed small fire, and thousands Colorado. The Cascades can be steep and were brought down by Vietnamese defenders. Probably most famous for its role in the rugged, but they are among the lowest terrifying village raid set to “Flight of the Valkyries” in the movie “Apocalypse Now,” in “real” mountain ranges in the world. Many reality such raids would have been very unusual. Hueys were just too vulnerable to helicopters suffer degraded performance ground-based defensive fire. at altitudes over 10,000 feet. It would seem that effective high-altitude training would be better done in an environment where Sikorsky UH-60 “Blackhawk,” that problem had to be dealt with, since more modern and powerful it will likely be part of any real mountain replacement for the “Huey.” As warfare. noisy or noisier than Hueys, Whatever the reasons, the choice of Blackhawks are now the most sites and the projected intensity of use widely used helicopter by the quickly generated widespread opposition. U.S. military, and will likely Washington Wild, a leading statewide become part of the soundscape conservation group with whom NCCC has in areas of the Cascades once worked on the Wild Sky Wilderness, the the military decides where recent Alpine Lakes Wilderness additions, large-scale training operations and many other efforts, took the lead are to be carried out in Wash- and wrote a letter asking the military to ington State. visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  7 to return public lands to the states, to Introducing new board member motorized intrusions, and from thought- less overuse. Land managers can’t stop all Scott Crain these threats, and NCCC is a critical part of the fight to keep wilderness a place where we experience nature on nature’s own terms. My first outdoor adventures were Boy Scout camping trips in the eastern Washington desert, where I grew up. I’ve traversed nearly every wilderness in our state. I biked the Suiattle road and hiked the upper Suiattle to Chocolate Creek— before the repairs—and enjoyed watch- ing nature rebuild itself. Being out in the wilderness, and working to protect it, go hand in hand for me. When the Army an- nounced its decision to launch helicopter training trips in the Alpine Lakes, I took an off-trail multi-day trip to the precise point they intended to land helicopters so I could photograph it, experience it, and maybe be a plaintiff with standing to intervene and stop it! In the summer when I’m not in the NCCC asked Scott Crain to write a few After reading Harvey Manning’s Wilder- North Cascades, I’m in the Boundary Wa- words introducing himself to members ness Alps, I was hooked. Joining NCCC as ters Canoe Area Wilderness guiding youth and readers. Welcome to the board, Scott! a board member is a culmination for me wilderness trips for the Boy Scouts and in a long process of watching and support- others. I’m particularly interested in teach- I’m excited to join NCCC’s long legacy ing the efforts that others have made to ing youth about wilderness and why it’s of protecting and advocating for the North protect the North Cascades. important to keep it wild. The wilderness Cascades. I first heard about NCCC during Ed Abbey is credited with saying, or itself really does the job itself, however, the Suiattle River Road process. I sup- stealing, the phrase, “Wilderness needs no and I just stay out of the way. Six days into ported NCCC’s efforts to take a closer look defense, only defenders.” NCCC epito- a wilderness canoe trip, kids who catch at our road system in the national forests mizes this belief, and I share it. Wilderness a lake trout, build a fire in the , or and try to do it better moving forward. is under a huge threat, from demands outlast a lightning storm understand what wilderness has to offer. My wife Ann is a long-time guide and director of a Girl Scout canoe base that in- troduces teenage girls to multi-day wilder- Lands Commissioner Goldmark ness canoe trips in the Boundary Waters Canoe Area Wilderness. My family—us and to step down our two boys—spends its summers half a mile from the wilderness boundary, where By Rick McGuire we work tirelessly to see that youth have a safe trip, and come back with a new aware- It has been announced that Washington between Gold Bar and Index, stopping ness of their own strengths and a better State Lands Commissioner Peter Goldmark all motorized recreation there for sev- appreciation for their natural environ- will be stepping down at the end of his eral years before reopening the area to ment. The single greatest challenge facing second term. No specific reasons have motorized use on a much smaller scale, in environmental advocacy organizations far been given, but presumably Goldmark designated areas only. and wide is getting younger people to care wishes to pursue other interests after eight NCCC wishes Goldmark all the best about the wild places we want to protect. years in Olympia overseeing the Depart- in his future endeavors and hopes that In my professional life, I’m a legal aid ment of Natural Resources and state lands. whoever succeeds him will be a strong lawyer advocating for civil rights for the Goldmark designated the Middle Fork conservationist. poor. I believe in litigating for high-impact Snoqualmie Natural Resource Conser- systemic change, and hope to bring my vation Area (NRCA) and considerably ALSO: The Wild Cascades wishes to cor- understanding of navigating the court expanded the adjacent Mt. Si NRCA and rect a mistake in the article “R.I.P., Queen system to my advocacy with NCCC. I hope the Morning Star NRCA on Mt. Stickney of the Middle Fork,” in the previous issue. to bring my experience working with north of Gold Bar. NRCAs are the state’s We stated that Commissioner Goldmark youth in the wilderness, and my belief in near-equivalent of Wilderness on its lands. had designated the expanded Mt. Si and uncompromising defense of the Wilder- He also took on the wildly out-of-control new Middle Fork Snoqualmie NRCAs in ness Act to NCCC as a board member. I’m abuse by ORVs of the Reiter Forest area 2006. It was actually done in 2011. happy to be here.

8  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 North Fork Skykomish road to reopen? By Rick McGuire

fter what has seemed like does nothing to make a road more storm- North Fork Skykomish years of silence, Snohomish survivable. A slower-speed road is far less valley looking south from County has sent out another expensive to build and can be made just as Scott Peak, mounts Index update on the projected survivable, for much less money. and Persis in the distance. rebuild of the North Fork The all-or-nothing approach eats up —John Roper photo ASkykomish road, also called the “Index huge amounts of money. One figure ban- Galena” road by the county. died about a while ago was $27 million Almost a mile of the road was taken dollars for this rebuild of about a mile. You out by the changing river course in 2006, can’t help but wonder, is the real purpose about six miles or so above Index. Plans here (and too many other places) really were quickly announced to rebuild the about “access,” or is it about employing the road, but not as what most people would maximum number of designers, planners, consider a “forest road.” Instead, a road engineers and various other bureaucrats? with a 40 mph design speed was pro- It’s anyone’s guess at this point if the posed, essentially a highway, with large road will actually be rebuilt, and if so, just clear zones on either side, and plenty of how overbuilt it will be. If the object really cutting and filling. is to provide access to trails and backcoun- This “all or nothing” approach to road try, the current approach does not seem to building and rebuilding seems to be the be working. The all-or-nothing engineer- default condition for road designers. There ing mentality seems to be hanging on in is no need to rip a wide gash up the North spite of overwhelming evidence that it is Fork valley and make a high-speed road. It failing.

visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  9 C

10  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 mitts, full-on fur lined heavy parka—the works. I was lounging on my sleep pad in only light-weight poly-pro. He looked in on me with a mix of incredulity and won- der: “You’re going to spend the night?!? It’s REALLY STORMY.” He didn’t even realize there was no need to shout to be heard over the wind. I replied that there would be a gibbous moon waxing near full and the night skiing would be the bomb. I wouldn’t see another human for about 24 elebrating hours. Shortly after, as I skied up to the near- side avalanche chute that I was unwilling to ski past/through while keeping a wary 100 years of eye on the huge old growth WAILING in C the wind, a big gust came up and literally blew me off my feet! Next thing I know, I’m tumbling back downhill, my poles raking my face. Good thing it was blowing national parks so COLD, my face was numb and I didn’t but a brief moment of pain—made sure there was no blood, and continued to make runs for the next eight hours—prob- the best way I ably about 20 kilometers worth. Saw many many powder avalanches— nothing of substance compared to most years. Many of the avalanches would hit the big air of the Johannesburg cliffs and know how GO UP about 100 vertical feet. The trans- port of snow from high to low and from By Tom Hammond up valley to down valley was remarkable. At times there’d be little flurries at camp, from an otherwise brilliant sunny sky— elevations (4k-6k feet). Snowpack up high This article spans two overnight ski trips sudden halo of rainbows all around me. A is also about “normal” but tremendously to the same camp on the North Fork of the major avalanche had come off the Triplets- wind loaded on ALL aspects. Cascade River in North Cascades National Cascade cirque (within four weeks?) and Park—one on the Vernal Equinox March I headed up to see avalanches and get flowed all the way down to the Johannes- 19 and the next on April 1. Just two weeks some skiing in. What I found was yet burg cliffs. The far west and central west apart—but two vastly different experi- another wind storm. Still, I know the best chutes of Johannesburg have seen large ences. (place to) camp, in a bit of a dell, protect- ones too, but the central east and far east ed from avalanches and fortunately also Vernal Equinox 2016 (Sill Glacier) chutes still have much to from the wind and falling trees. give. Boston-Midas drainages were devoid The forecast called for sunny skies, There was more wind-transported snow of avalanches—instructive that even though perhaps a bit breezy and cold. than I’ve ever seen in 35 years of mountain though we have had record , Such has been the nature of this winter, travel. Snow was blowing off the sum- it has not translated in to a big snowpack. with record precipitation and seemingly mits and mid-levels of the surrounding Hmmm.... continuous wind storms. But I had to get mile-high ramparts such that all peaks out, even if the conditions weren’t perfect. During the night, when I was snugged appeared at ghosts shrouded in billowing I have in mind to visit National Parks as in my bag for 11 hours, I watched Mars, clouds of snow. As I approached the range, much as I can this year to celebrate 100 Saturn and Jupiter sprinkled in the I said “oh oh” to myself, so obvious was years of “America’s Greatest Idea”, so I Pleaides, Hyades and Orion, as they sailed the force of the wind. There were gusts of packed up the skis and headed to my over the Cascade Pass peaks. Good deal 60mph throughout my stay, perhaps eas- favorite ski destination, where the peaks having a National Park to myself for a ing a bit overnight. soar a vertical mile above the valley, and night. I saw a fox, heard a small number present a grand scene of snow, glaciers Two miles of hiking and a mile of skiing of Varied Thrush and some robins, but no- and deep forest. My decision was con- later, I was rummaging around in my tent, tably very little wildlife. I guess they don’t firmed by the fact the Cascade River road reconfiguring for a bite of lunch and a day care for the wind either... of sunny skiing. will be closed for six weeks across April- April 1 May, the high season for avalanches...a real Not long after, a solo guy (snowshoes) bummer because this year will see some was headed down and out. In another I had to reprise my equinox visit to exceptional avalanches, even though the comical mountain meeting, this guy North Cascades National Park because the snowpack is non-existent below 3,000 looked like he was straight out of McMur- forecast called for temperatures in the 70s. feet, and “average” or “normal” at mid- do—bronzed goggles, overboots, over- Warm weather and a snowpack running

visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  11 100-125 percent of “normal” would pro- avalanches in years past, so there was no Photo captions: page 10, vide for fantastic skiing and likely some big loitering! The parking lot at the end of the Mix-Up Peak sports a plume avalanches. It bears repeating that even road has nearly been whacked by a couple of wind-blown snow while ex- though we’ve experienced the wettest of avalanches off the Triplets, with much periencing gusts exceeding 50 six months in recorded history in Seattle much more yet to come down. I’m glad I mph; above, Mount Torment (average precipitation is 37.5 inches for the wasn’t camping in this area, and I was and rises a mile above the ski camp hydrologic year, and we’ve had 43.3 inches am lamenting not being able to get back in North Cascades National in the first six months!) it has not resulted here until mid-May, when most every- Park. —Tom Hammond photos in a big snowpack—something that is very thing will have come down. There was no telling for the health of our glaciers and lamenting the conditions though. It was so the summer stream flow which they sup- warm I couldn’t stay in the (80 degrees F) port. What snow there is however, is wind tent and thus spent the day skiing many ki- loaded like I’ve rarely seen—tremendous lometers in shorts and a tee-shirt. Indeed, fluting on the high peaks, giant cornices, it was 5 pm before I put on additional lay- and most importantly, thick wind-sculpted ers—simply a bluebird Spring day! slab structures visible on all the mid-level It was warm enough that I didn’t need interrupted by an EA-18G roaring through alp slopes. to fire up the stove to melt snow for drink- Cascade Pass—an alarming annoyance, needless to say! In a fitting send-off, just as It is remarkable how sharp the snow line ing water. I loaded up the pan and all of I was packing up to leave, a large plaque of is—below 3,000 feet there is absolutely my water bottles with snow and set them ice and wind-loaded snow popped off the no snow; above 3,200 feet there is a meter in the sun. Bake two hours and water is cliffs of Johannesburg directly across the of snow “instantly”. The intervening two at the ready! I don’t take for granted how valley. I watched intently as blocks of ice/ weeks has seen the snowpack decrease fortunate I am to drink water directly from snow the size of SUVs and delivery trucks about a half meter, but there was plenty to North Cascades snowpack—I marvel at seemingly fluttered through more than set my usual camp. On the approach, just the number of days->weeks->months of 100 meters of free-fall to SMASH on to the as I was putting on my skis, three young my life that I’ve “made water”. Not some feet of the great mountain. That is a sight men were headed out. Once again I would silly television commercial extolling clean and sound that will forever take my breath have another night with North Cascades mountain streams, but actually living it! away, and fuel my soul with an apprecia- National Park to myself. The skiing was While I didn’t see any wildlife per se, there tion for the power of physics. fantastic—at times sugary, at times a bit were many more birds this time—especial- more substantial—Cascade concrete at its ly the lovely lilting trill of the thrush and I am so thankful for the ability and best! I was a bit concerned with the slabs the hrump of the grouse. There were ava- desire to keep exploring. Don’t live in the in evidence along Sahale Arm as I skied be- lanches coming down all the major chutes, virtual world, live in the REAL WORLD. low them across Soldier Boy Creek/drain- but nothing too big, and not too frequent. Planetary science is one of the great gifts, age. I have seen this entire area buried by One of the largest of the weekend was so experience just a little bit.

12  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 Alpine Lakes Wilderness celebrates 40 years By Rick McGuire This summer marks 40 years since the designation of the Alpine Lakes Wilderness on July 12, 1976. Visible from Seattle, it was the original “backyard Wilderness”

It’s hard to remember how different the The assumption had always been that Malachite Peak from Copper Lake, Alpine politics of Washington state were 40 years the trees in the National Forests would be Lakes Wilderness. ago. It was the heyday of taxpayer-subsi- cut. Not just some of them—pretty much dized logging of the National Forests, with all of them. The “biological deserts” of — Jim Scarborough photo powerful Senators such as Henry Jackson “overmature, decadent” natural forests from Washington state and Mark Hatfield would be replaced by thrifty, fast-growing luckily they seem to be the minority.) of Oregon bringing home the bacon in the young stands watched over by expert Forests were for logging. Trees were there form of hundreds of millions of dollars foresters. to be cut down. per year to construct logging roads. Tim- In 1976, many people really believed Conservationists knew that unless ac- ber was still king, although its throne was that foresters knew how to grow forests tion was taken, the National Forests of starting to get a bit shaky. better than nature. (Some still do, but continued on page 19 visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  13 Wild Nearby exhibit opens at Burke Museum

Discover the sights, sounds and stories of the people, plants and animals that make up the North Cascades in the Burke Museum of Natural History and Culture’s exhib- it, Wild Nearby. Inspired by Mountaineers Books’ The North Cascades: Finding Beauty and Renewal in the Wild Nearby (whose cover photo was taken by NCCC board member Thom Schroeder), the exhibit features beautiful large-scale photos from the book while putting you in the shoes of Burke sci- entists to examine the North Cascades using specimens and artifacts from the Burke Museum. The exhibit will be on display June 18, 2016 to February 15, 2017. NCCC will host a table As an organization commit- from 10 a.m. to 3 p.m. during ted to environmental issues and the June 18 opening celebra- education, we’ve been given tion. coupons to promote attendance at the show! One more reason to enjoy the Wild Nearby.

Join the NCCC work party October 1

Join the board in volun- teering at North Cascades National Park on Saturday, October 1. We will meet at Diablo Overlook along Highway 20 at 11 am if the weather is nice to remove invasive plants, and plant natives. If the weather is wet, we’ll meet at Marble- mount Ranger Station- Miller Greenhouse. Please RSVP to ncccinfo@north- cascades.org by August 31 if you plan to attend.

14  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 The restoration of grizzly bears to the North Cascades By the North Cascades Ecosystem Grizzly Bear Recovery EIS Team

In the Fall 2015 Wild Cascades, Rick the population in the North Cascades with McGuire offered his thoughts on the bears from another area. The National question “Is transplanting grizzly bears Environmental Policy Act (NEPA) process to the Cascades really a good idea?” From is the appropriate way to consider these the perspective of US Fish and Wildlife alternatives.” In other words, an Environ- Service and the National Park Service, it’s mental Impact Statement (EIS) would be file

more than a good idea, it’s the law. When undertaken to examine means by which Congress passed the Endangered Spe- the NCE population could be restored. cies Act (ESA) in 1973, it recognized that The National Park Service and US Fish our rich natural heritage is of “esthetic, and Wildlife Service, along with the USDA hutterstock S educational, ecological, recreational, Forest Service, Washington Department of and scientific value to our Nation and its Fish and Wildlife, and the BC Ministry of Thanks to Jack Oelfke, Chief of people.” The purpose of the ESA is to pro- the Environment, commenced work on a Natural and Cultural Resources, tect and recover imperiled species and the Grizzly Bear Restoration EIS in late 2014. North Cascades National Park ecosystems on which they depend. The This EIS will evaluate a range of alterna- US Fish and Wildlife Service has primary tives for how to restore grizzly bears in the Complex, for arranging this ar- responsibility for administering the ESA North Cascades ecosystem, a process that ticle and for making a presenta- for terrestrial and freshwater organisms. involves the public in meaningful ways. The National Park Service works to sustain tion to the NCCC board. Those Public scoping, which asked the public and recover species listed under the ESA to provide input on issues important to of us worried about threatened in the parks. them for this evaluation, was completed in BC bear populations in areas The Interagency Grizzly Bear Commit- March 2015. A public review of the range tee (IGBC) was formed in 1983 to “achieve of potential alternatives will occur in the nearest the Cascades would feel the recovery of the grizzly bear…” and to summer of 2016. In the meantime, alterna- much less anxiety about remov- “attain the objectives established by the tives will be identified, developed, and ing bears from “source popula- Grizzly Bear Recovery Plan….” Its mem- analyzed by the agencies in response to bers include USDA Forest Service, National biological, public, and agency input. The tions” with plenty of bears, such Park Service, US Fish and Wildlife Service, analyses begin with several proposed ac- as the NCDE, perhaps supple- Bureau of Land Management, US Geo- tions and then questions will be asked of mented with a relatively few logical Survey and representatives for the each one. Those questions include: what states of Idaho, Montana, Washington and may be the biological and/or behavioral bears from different areas in BC Wyoming. In the interest of international effects on other species in the ecosystem; to add genetic diversity. coordination and cooperation, the Cana- what may be the effects on human factors, dian Wildlife Service is also represented. including access, safety and economy; At the ecosystem level, Native American if bears are moved from other areas, tribes possessing grizzly bear habitat what would be the effects – biologically within the recovery areas have also been and socially – in the area(s) of source involved. population(s)? Those analyses affect the The IGBC designated the North Cas- outcome of what alternatives are put out cades Ecosystem (NCE) as a grizzly bear for public review as viable options, and recovery zone in 1991, after a five-year substantive comments from the public can assessment that considered habitat suit- influence the outcome of what alternatives ability and availability, human activity, and are ultimately selected for final review and the presence of grizzly bears. A recovery recommendation. It has been established plan chapter for the NCE was subse- that there are very few grizzly bears left quently appended to the overall Grizzly in the NCE, both south and north of the Bear Recovery Plan in 1997. The recovery international boundary, and restoring plan chapter laid out recommendations bears to the Cascades should thus consider for what would be needed to restore a bringing some animals in from another viable, self-sustaining population, and place. The details pertaining to what this stated upfront that “a range of alternatives means are part of what will be studied should be considered for recovery of this over the next several months. population. These alternatives should continued on page 16 range from no action to augmentation of visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  15 continued from page 15 and personnel expertise and resources, So, will grizzly bear populations grow and availability of funding) suggest that in the Cascades? The EIS will spell out the restoration would take many decades to options and details with best available in- Translocations are not a simple task, but achieve. formation and you will have the opportu- can be very effective for wildlife conserva- Lastly, have we preserved a place for nity to share your thoughts. At the agency tion at broad scales. Adult bears are most them? To provide some history, in 1994 level, this is beyond a good idea, it is an likely to go “home” as they have estab- the IGBC developed an analysis process obligation. Grizzlies persisted in this wild lished home ranges over the course of for determining the existing level of hu- place long before people. With only two their lives, know the resources there, and man access and defining the area within confirmed grizzly bears observed within know the other bears using those ranges – which road and trail density should be the entire 13,000 square-mile ecosystem all advantages for survival and successful measured. This provided a consistent way (Thompson River to I-5) in the past 10 reproduction. Adult males, who have the to evaluate access management concerns years, the question truly is how they can largest home ranges and are not encum- across recovery areas and was agreed to be restored to the magnificent wilderness bered by offspring, are the most likely of by all of the signatory agencies. The metric of the Cascades. For additional informa- all to return to their home range. Bears used for determining spatial security for tion on the Grizzly Bear Restoration EIS, who have learned to forage from human bears was based on a large body of grizzly go to www.nps.gov/noca/grizzly.htm. sources, as Winston did, are most likely to bear research, and dubbed “core”. Core either return “home”, or referred to areas over 500 to transfer this learning to meters from a road or high similar food sources in the use trail, with the latter be- new location. Winston’s From the perspec- ing defined as greater than return home took several tive of US Fish and 20 parties per week. In EIS Schedule/ months and occurred over 1997, the NCE Subcommit- 20 years ago. Public land Wildlife Service and tee of the IGBC agreed to Key Deadlines managers have learned an interim standard of no the National Park Notice of Intent and from these types of experi- net loss of core on federal  ences and, as a result, adult Service, it’s more lands within bear manage- Public Scoping – spring male bears, and especially than a good idea, ment units throughout 2015 conflict bears, would not it’s the law. the ecosystem, until the likely meet the needs of a agreement was superseded  Development of al- successful restoration ef- by a Forest Plan revision ternatives – fall 2015/ fort. Best available science or amendment, or an NPS and modern day wildlife management general management plan. The National spring 2016 practice would suggest that translocated Park Service formalized access policy for • Notice of Availability animals would be young bears, selected the whole of the North Cascades National from areas with similar food economies Park Service Complex in the 2012 Ross of Draft EIS – summer and donor populations that would not be Lake National Recreation Area General 2016 negatively impacted by the loss of a small Management Plan. Trails proposed in this number of individual animals. plan would reduce core area by less than • Public comment pe- Large-scale restoration of grizzly bears one percent, none of it in high-quality riod – fall 2016 has not been attempted to date, but habitat. Further trail construction is not that does not negate it as a possible tool anticipated. • Notice of Availability for species recovery. Grizzly bears have Specific mention was made of the Pacific successfully been translocated, contrib- of Final EIS – summer Northwest National Scenic Trail (PNNST). 2017 uting to species restoration in the Cabi- No new trail has been built on federally net Mountains. By the late 1980s it was managed lands in this grizzly bear recov- • Record of Decision – estimated that only 5-10 primarily elderly ery area as a result of the PNNST’s designa- bears remained in the Cabinets; a dying tion by Congress as a National Scenic Trail fall 2017 population. After 25 years and the aug- in 2009. The trail work underway along mentation of 18 grizzly bears, the current the South Fork of the Nooksack River, on population estimate is 25 bears, including the Mt. Baker-Snoqualmie National For- several second-generation offspring of est, is the relocation of some sections of translocated bears. The rate of population existing trail away from the river and to growth has been roughly 3 percent, very bring other sections of trail/ old skid road good for one of the slowest-reproducing up to standard. The PNNST designation land mammals in North America. Col- has not changed any areas from low use lectively, these data show us that carefully to high use in the Cabinet-Yaak, Selkirk, selected candidate bears added into an or Northern Continental Divide recovery ecosystem can begin to establish restora- areas. High-use trails within the national tion…and it takes a very long time. Even at park were high-use before the designation. a larger spatial scale such as the Cascades, Core habitat is being protected throughout the biological time scale and feasibility the recovery area, and has been for nearly of translocations (availability of good 20 years. candidate animals, availability of technical

16  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 NCCC responds

NCCC wishes to thank Jack Oelfke for ness areas. Some estimates of the grizzly looked to for most of the bears to move. his thoughtful response regarding grizzly population there are as high as 1000 ani- So far, the talk has been of moving about bear reintroduction to the Cascades. He mals. It is, like the Cascades, a wet west/ five bears per year into the Cascades. was also kind enough to meet personally dry east side kind of place, with its west- Capturing, moving and releasing bears with NCCC to present information and ern side having many of the same tree is a rather specialized skill, and logistics answer questions. and plant species as the Cascades. Bears obviously limit how many bears could NCCC’s main concern about trans- there are not accustomed to getting a lot successfully be moved during a season. planting bears has always been “where of meat, like in Yellowstone, nor do they NCCC may also recommend trying to do they come from?” The areas in British have access to salmon. Westside NCDE move more than five bears per year if Columbia closest to and most like the Cas- bears would likely find the Cascades possible, so as to avoid the problem of too cades are not good places from which to pretty similar to where they came from. few bears to find each other. (See the re- remove bears. Although Jack was careful It’s hard to see how removing bears sponse article by Kevin Geraghty in TWC not to commit himself or the agencies on from such a robust population could do it Spring 2016.) where the bears would come from, he did any harm. Perhaps a few bears might be Again, NCCC wishes to thank Jack explain that possible source areas also in- taken from other places, including British Oelfke for taking the time to explain what clude what in the US is usually called the Columbia, for the sake of adding genetic moving bears to the Cascades might in- “Northern Continental Divide” ecosystem, diversity, but the bulk of the population volve. NCCC is looking forward to release or NCDE. would not need to come from those areas. of the Park Service/Fish & Wildlife Service The NCDE comprises Glacier National When the bear recovery EIS is released, EIS on grizzly bear recovery in the North Park and adjoining and nearby Wilder- NCCC may recommend that NCDE be Cascades.

50 years ago in The Wild Cascades

Copper ore under Miners Ridge near Glacier Peak attracted Kennecott Copper Corp. in the 1950s, and although the 1964 Wilderness Act offered protection against logging, it gave holders of mining claims a 20 year window to start digging. Kennecott announced in 1966 that it planned to dig a huge open pit mine on the ridge that holds iconic Image Lake, in the heart of the Glacier Peak Wilderness (pictured here), and build a haul road out the Suiattle River, forever scarring the land. NCCC’s membership resisted, writing Congress and spreading the word. As one NCCC member famously said at the time, an open pit mine there “would be as appropriate as one in the Sistine Chapel.” The mine project was kept at bay long enough and the publicity was so bad for Kennecott that it finally abandoned its claim. As any- one who has been there can attest, the Image Lake area ranks among the nation’s finest scenic wonders, and remains so thanks to NCCC members.

visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  17 “We have shown there is a tradeoff between harvesting and viewing wolves, Hunting but these findings could extend to other large carnivores that also move in and out of parks,” said senior author Laura habitat Prugh, a University of Washington assistant professor of quantitative wildlife sciences in the School of Environmental and Forest affects Sciences. “In an ideal world, there wouldn’t be a tradeoff. You could have wolf harvests out- viewing side of the parks, which also bring in a lot of economic activity, and it wouldn’t have an effect on the populations or probability that tourists are going to see wildlife in of national the parks.” The researchers analyzed data on wolf sightings, pack sizes, den locations and park harvests adjacent to the parks in Denali from 1997 to 2013 and in Yellowstone from 2008 to 2013. In both parks, they wolves found that in years when the wolf popula- tions were up and their dens were close to park roads, visitors were more likely to see wolves. But their models also suggest more Visitors to national parks are half as Adjacent to Denali, wolves are primarily subtle effects of harvests on the ability of likely to see wolves in their natural habitat trapped during legal harvests, while states visitors to see wolves. Sightings are per- when wolf hunting is permitted just out- adjacent to Yellowstone permit shooting haps driven by key individuals in a pack, side park boundaries. wolves during hunting season. Wolves such as wolves that den by the road. If That’s the main finding of a paper, have always existed in Alaska and are those wolves are killed, that loss may not “Implications of Harvest on the Boundar- generally regarded as an important part result in an overall decrease in the total ies of Protected Areas for Large Carnivore of the state’s ecosystem — by trappers and wolf population, but it could significantly Viewing Opportunities”, co-authored by wildlife enthusiasts alike. reduce the sightings for that year. University of Washington researchers. Its The sentiment is quite different around Hunting and trapping may also have authors examined wolf harvest and sight- Yellowstone, where wolves were reintro- behavioral effects on wolves, making them ings data from Denali and Yellowstone duced by wildlife biologists in 1995. Cattle more wary of humans and less likely to National Parks, and found visitors were ranchers, in particular, must contend with traverse roads where park visitors travel. twice as likely to see a wolf when hunting predators that hadn’t previously roamed This research has prompted the Na- wasn’t permitted adjacent to the parks. those areas. tional Park Service to begin a thorough “This is the first study that demonstrates Wildlife viewing is an important eco- socioeconomic study of the impact of a potential link between the harvest of nomic driver for the states surrounding wolf sightings on visitors’ experiences in wildlife on the borders of a park and the the two national parks. Wolf-watching Denali. The researchers are also looking experience that visitors have within the activities in Yellowstone after the 1995 re- more closely at how other factors such as park,” said lead author Bridget Borg, a introduction have brought in an estimated vegetation cover and topography affect Denali wildlife biologist. $35 million each year to Idaho, Montana wolf sightings in the park. The researchers looked at the dynamics and Wyoming. In Alaska, wildlife viewing Other co-authors are Stephen Arthur between hunting and viewing wolves at activities supported more than $2.7 billion and Nicholas Bromen of the National these two national parks because they are in economic activity in 2011. Park Service (Denali); and Kira Cassidy, the only ones where visitors have a good At the same time, these states are Rick McIntyre and Douglas Smith of the chance of seeing a wolf. Both parks have required to provide for consumptive uses National Park Service (Yellowstone). long-term monitoring programs that have of wildlife. In 2011, hunting in Alaska sup- This research was funded by the Na- collected years of data on resident wolf ported more than $1.3 billion in economic tional Park Service. populations, including years when wolf activity, and revenue in Montana from harvest was permitted and years when it buying wolf tags alone brought in over —Adapted from U W Today, was prohibited near the borders of both $400,000. April 28, 2016 Denali and Yellowstone.

18  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 Alpine Lakes down the rest of the Cascades anywhere bill passed in 2008, followed by the addi- there were trees to be cut. After the North tion of the low-elevation Pratt River valley continued from page 13 Cascades Park, attention turned to the to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness in 2014, areas closer to Seattle in the central Cas- both projects championed by Senator Washington state would end up looking cades. Patty Murray, who has earned a reputation like those of Oregon, with roads every- as the state’s most environmentally effec- where. Oregon’s original endowment of Opposition to the creation of the Alpine tive politician. National Forest timber was considerably Lakes Wilderness may have been even greater than Washington’s and its gentler stronger than the opposition to the Park. The Alpine Lakes still faces threats. terrain made road construction dollars go Much of the Alpine Lakes area spilled into Development interests in the Leavenworth further. But the Forest Service was well politically conservative Eastern Washing- and Wenatchee valley area want to pull funded and determined to do all it could ton, where trees were fewer but were cut more water out of Wilderness lakes in the to transform wild forests, even in the rug- with even greater determination. Caravans Icicle Creek watershed. The Middle Fork ged terrain of Washington’s Cascades, into of logging trucks protested the “lockup” Snoqualmie valley is in danger of being “tree farms.” of public lands that the timber industry loved to death, with thousands of vehicles viewed as theirs. pouring into the valley on peak-use days, We owe much to those conservation- threatening to turn the entire Middle Fork ists, who faced challenges perhaps more Against all odds, a decent-sized Wilder- road into one big traffic jam. formidable than today. After the 1938 ness bill passed Congress in the summer designation of Olympic National Park, of 1976 and landed on the desk of Presi- The numbers of private vehicles need conservation took a back seat, first to war, dent Gerald Ford. Both the Secretary of to be limited in the Middle Fork, and Wil- then to the boom mentality of the 1950s Agriculture, master of the Forest Service, derness lakes need to be protected from and 1960s. Oil was cheap, money was and the Office of Management and Budget being reservoir-ized. Snowmobile and ORV abundant, and it didn’t seem to matter if recommended a veto. Then-governor Dan trespass is reaching alarming levels, with the National Forest timber program was Evans famously interrupted a European va- almost no policing any more in the form a big money loser. Natural values were cation to meet with Ford, a copy of Brock of Wilderness rangers. A giant under- ignored and never appeared in any cost/ Evans’ Alpine Lakes book in hand. When ground laboratory proposed for below the benefit analysis. Cutting trees on public he saw Evans’ exhibit-format book with Enchantment Lakes area a decade ago was lands provided jobs. The fact that only its stunning photos, Ford exclaimed, “It is barely defeated. small number of people were employed such beautiful country, it must be saved!” These and other threats need to be didn’t matter. It was “progress.” And he signed the bill. It is hard to believe opposed and defeated. Wilderness was a now that Republicans were often better So it was all the more remarkable that big step forward for the Alpine Lakes area, conservationists than Democrats in that after 30 years of very little conserva- but NCCC and other conservation groups decade. tion, NCCC was able to take the lead and need to be constantly vigilant and ready bring about the designation of the North Passage of the Alpine Lakes bill was fol- to act to keep the gains of past decades Cascades National Park, taking land away lowed by the Washington Wilderness Act from slipping away. Wilderness advocates from the Forest Service. But roads were protecting over a million acres in 1984. It need to win again and again. The forces of still being punched up valleys up and would be 24 more years until the Wild Sky destruction only need to win once. visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  19 Prusik Peak — Thom Schroeder photo

20  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 U N D E R t h e W E I G H T o f I C E A Tribute to the Alpine Lakes Wilderness by Thom Schroeder

OCTOBER 9. Creek canyon, upwards to Lake Viviane, a larch stand impressive, bold, forgiving. vertical mile higher, still ten miles south. The sound of rushing water, everywhere. First light. The tiny window of my tent Onward, a steady march. Up over bedrock Under ice. Over ice. Over granite, and in is etched with the frost and ice of the slick with ice, trickles of water from above, between. In all its forms. It seems here night before, the dawn sky now clear cascading, falling. Lake Vivian, awash with the granite does not break the ice, the and pale blue. I burrow deeper into my mid-day sun, gleaming. I continue, over ice breaks the granite, splintering it into bag and wait for the sun and shadows polished granite, towards Leprechaun millions of shards, tumbled and tossed and warmth to make their way to Lepre- Lake. Half-past noon, I collapse in my tent, in every corner of every meadow. Impos- chaun, a fresh layer of thin ice hugging already a long day. But so much to ex- sible to ignore, or understand, the power the shore. I head back out into the lower plore, in this Lost World Plateau, through of water. Crashing down from the glacier, basin to photograph the angles I could the history and folklore up until now through the basins, the lakes, to the river, not the day before, overwhelmed again by about which I have only read. It is credited miles below, the ocean, infinite. Wander- all of the water. On the precipice, as the to having been discovered by a topogra- ing further up the trail, past small tarns, world of granite falls away beneath me, pher named A. H. Sylvester who, in 1904, then Rune and Talisman Lakes (those were below to the Magic Meadow, I stand. The was exploring the place for the Forest the Stark’s names, the Forest Service has water crashing, Prusik Peak rising, bathed Service and wrote flowingly, I found five unromantically renamed them Perfection in light. It feels as if I am floating, over or six most beautiful small lakes grouped and Inspiration, respectively), towards the granite and peaks, ice and waters, all from in a wonderful glacial valley all ringed middle basin. The gentle statue of Little a million years before, unchanged. I am with alpine larch. From the highest lake Annapurna rises to the south. Then, at forever at a loss. over an entrancing fall tumbled the water last, the uppermost basin, still forming it received from a small glacier. It was an under the weight of ice. The alpine larch entrancing scene. I named the group the have all but disappeared, crippled, this OCTOBER 8. Enchantment Lakes. place now void of color, all for but the cobalt sky above, the grey granite beneath. Up at four o’clock in the morning with Only ice and granite survive, here, in an the alarm. Still nighttime, should be The glacier he mentioned was the Snow epic battle. asleep. The neighborhood is dark and Creek Glacier, and at the time covered quiet as I creep out, past slumbering much of the basin. In the 1940s, rock Back in camp, I am tucked safely back houses and the twenty-four hour coffee climbers discovered the area, and follow- into my sleeping bag, listening to music, shop. Traffic. The furnace back home is ing that, a couple from Leavenworth, Bill quiet. The night shifts, settles. Tired. about to kick back on after a good night’s and Peg Stark. Drawing from various my- Falling asleep, I hear the sound of water rest. An hour to the pass. Half an hour thologies, the couple took it upon them- surrounding me. The granite is cut only more to Cle Elum, and coffee. Another selves to naming most of the lakes and by the forces of water, and time. Stillness. hour, maybe fifty minutes, to Leaven- features. A splendor too good to be true, After having spent the summer and fall worth. It is pouring rain at the summit, impossible to describe. But the names in wandering amongst the wild ranges of the dark. But by the top of Blewitt Pass, I can the lower basin, Gnome Tarn, Troll Sink, Sierra Nevada and Wind River, I tell myself tell it is going to be a glorious day. Fruit Naiad Lake, Pixie Pond, Magic Meadow, now, whispering, softly, this is the most farms, nestled in the still-shadow of the hinted at the magic they held, their spell incredible place of all. valley. Quiet. At a quarter before eight, the only to be discovered, never broken. And gruff but endearing ranger of the Enchant- in the upper basin, Brynhild Lake, Lake ments swings open the Forest Service door Freya, Valhalla Cirque, Asgard Pass. There, with a brisk, ‘You here for a permit?’ I am it felt as if the Ice Age had just ended, the only one on the ranger station’s creaky or not quite. Another description of it I porch. ‘Yeah.’ The mountains past town recalled from years ago, perfect, simple… shadowing the Wenatchee River sparkle ‘still forming.’ with fresh snow and sunlight, and soon The trail winds around meadows and I am hiking, in the cold depths of Snow bedrock, lakes and streams. Stout, golden visit www.northcascades.org • ncascadesconservation.blogspot.com The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016  21 Salmon Population Decline, featured on About artist Jill Pelto the cover of this issue, is part of a series about the major impacts of global warm- I am an artist and a scientist who ing that I witnessed in Washington State in graduated from the University of August 2015, using scientific data to show Maine in December 2015 with a how the drought devastated the state. double major in Studio Art and Earth Seeing the rivers and reservoirs looking Science. I have always loved nature so barren was frightening; the snowpack and want to use my creative skills in the mountains and on the glaciers to communicate information about supplies a lot of the water for this region, extreme environmental issues with a and the additional lack of precipitation broad audience. I have assisted with greatly depleted the state’s hydrosphere. research on the mountain glaciers of Consequently, the water level in the riv- Washington and British Columbia, in ers the salmon spawn in was very low in the Dry Valleys of Antarctica, and over 2015 and not cold enough for them. This the rolling hills and carved cirques of piece uses population data about the Coho the Falkland Islands. I create artwork Salmon species; the salmon are depicted about both the research I have been swimming along the length of the graph, involved with as well as a myriad of following its current. While salmon can other important topics. swim upstream, lower stream flow and higher temperatures are making this more I believe that art is a uniquely artic- of an uphill battle. This image depicts the ulate lens: through it I can address en- struggle their population is facing as their vironmental concerns to raise aware- spawning habitat declines. ness and inspire people to take action. Art is powerful because many people The clownfish piece on page 23 is part respond more to the visual than to the of Habitat Degradation, a series com- writing in a scientific paper. My art can menting on humans’ negative impacts on Artist/Scientist Jill Pelto digging a three- show the essential information of an ecosystems worldwide. I chose representa- meter snow pit on Kokanee Glacier, environmental issue while expressing tive species responding to the effects of the changes. Ocean Acidification contains Selkirk Range, BC., April 2016 © Tom its beauty and its story. My hope is that oceanic pH data from 1998 to 2012. The Hammond this combination of intellectual and emotional content will be meaningful decreasing pH is due to atmospheric to a lot of people. carbon dissolving into the ocean, and

Bridge Creek approach- ing its confluence with the Stehekin River, North Cascades National Park. —Jim Scarborough photo

22  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016 creating carbonic acid, which means a more acidic ocean. This has harm- ful effects on all marine life. Studies on clownfish show that more acidic water alters how their brains’ process information. This affects their ability to avoid predators by detecting noises and to find their way home. Ocean water has a lower pH than a fish’s cells, so they take in carbonic acid in order to be in harmony with their environment. Even a small drop in pH requires fish to expend much more energy in order to equilibrate, and this energy is taken from other neces- sary functions. The clownfish in my watercolor are grouped in confusion, separated from the anemone in which they live. The oceans may be vast, but if pH drops globally, there is literally nowhere marine life can go, because they are confined to the water.

Ocean Acidification —Jill Pelto art

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Ski camp, North Cascades National Park.—Tom Hammond photo

24  The Wild Cascades • Spring/Summer 2016