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theGUIDE SUMMER 2014 A GUIDE TO BRITAIN FROM BRITAIN’S BEST GUIDES

MEET THE GEORGIANS AMANDA VICKERY, BBC PRESENTER AND HISTORIAN

TWO THOUSAND YEARS OF BRITISH • EXPERT TOURS OF AND OXFORD • LEGENDS, LIES AND LORE

16 5 T: 020 7403 1115E:[email protected] Project Manager: Editorial Assistance: T: 020 7403 1115E:[email protected] Editor: Email: theguide association for BlueBadgeGuides(thehighest guidingqualificationinBritain.) thenational This magazineisproduced by theGuildofRegistered Tourist Guides– MyFavourite… 30 Tour deForce 24 TheBeerfacts 16 Legends, Lies AndLore 14 MyFavourite… 12 Interview 8 4NewsContents NLN ODNWLSNORTHERN WALES Blue BadgeGuidesonrestaurants, museumsandbuildings to Brixton Two expert guidestellusabouttheirtours –from Oxford alcoholic drink Marc Zakianuncovers thehistory oftheUK’s favourite Fact andfictionfrom Britishhistory Blue BadgeGuidesongardens, graffiti andcastles Cambell aboutherfascination withGeorgian Britain Presenter andhistorian AmandaVickery tellsSophie Mike Leigh’s big-screen Turner opens tothepublic;Londoninvestigates Sherlock Holmes; Richard IIIuncovered inLeicester; Coronation Street Marc Zakian Maggie Barnes-Aoussou @ blue-badge.org.uk •www.britainsbestguides.org Mark King 26 IRELAND 8 T: 07846 979625 E:[email protected] Display advertising: Tel: 0113257 9646W: www.mypec.co.ukMYPEC Design andprint: Guild ofRegistered Tourist Guides©2014 Publisher: CTADGREENBADGE SCOTLAND Andy Bettley

ISSN: 2053-0439 TO ‘THEGUIDE’... of perspectives thatourguidesoffer you. magazine illustrates theextraordinary diversity from theWest Endto Brixton. the lives ofseveral little-known blackBritons – Afro-Caribbean settlers inEngland,revealing us afascinating glimpseinto theexperiences of history ofAfro-Caribbean London.Angelagives own family’s story inspired herinterest inthe London BlueBadgeguideAngelaMorgan. Her garnered stories hestill uses onhistours today. fascinating insightinto hisown country and of people, pedalled manymiles, gaineda making cities.Hepolishedmanyshoes,metlots a trailer withhistent andkit,hevisited shoe- shoeshine boy. Travelling bypush-bike, towing up guiding,Robsetoffacross Englandasa regular Tour deForce interviews. Before hetook to usaboutpoliticiansandrogues inoneofour renaissance. to thirsty Romansoldiers, to therecent ‘’ beer inBritain –from thefirst written references bringing usanintoxicating history ofale and exploring therecesses ofthebeercellar, to this.Oureditor, Marc Zakian,hasbeen and guidesfeatured inthisissue are testimony rooms inthemansionofhistory’ andthestories social anddomestic history oftheera. fascinating –inparticulartheless well known Sophie Campbellwhyshefindsthisperiodso presenter tells journalist andBlueBadgeGuide of Professor AmandaVickery andtheBBC 1714. TheGeorgians are thespecialist subject King George Icoming to theBritishthrone in Georgians’, markingthe300thanniversary of in thisour5theditionofTheGuidemagazine. we have amarvellous mixture ofsubject matter Our guidesoffer aninfinitevariety oftours and Registered Tourist Guides Sue King,ChairtotheGuildof WELCOME Variety isthespice oflife andthisissue ofour Our second Tour deForce interview iswith Rob Walters, authorandOxford guide,talks As Professor Vickery says,there are ‘many This year we are celebrating the‘Gorgeous 3 NEWS History, Culture and Events

Natalia Mikhaylova Blue Badge Guide, Russian ROVERS RETURN From April to October this year the original Hutchwright in 2005, and Mel B, aka Scary Coronation Street is on view to the public – Spice, who was a Bettabuys checkout and in the first two months since its opening worker in 1993. In 1990 the then-Prime BLUE BADGE over 100,000 people have walked the cobbles. Minister, Margaret Thatcher, paid a visit to Soap fans can take a tour which includes the Rovers Return for a drink, and Prince TOURIST GUIDES the actors’ green-room and dressing rooms, Charles also stopped in for a pint in 2000. Blue Badge Tourist Guides are the official, and the homes where Carla, the Platts and Visitors can wander around the set as professional tourist guides of the United the Duckworths lived. They can also see they please, taking pictures outside the Kingdom – recognised by the local tourist an exhibition of iconic props, including Rovers Return. Soap fans have been paying bodies and VisitBritain. The Blue Badge Deirdre’s glasses and Roy’s train set. homage to the character Tina McIntyre by is the UK’s highest guiding qualification, Following 50 years at the Granada recreating her ‘death’ scene on the cobbles, awarded only after extensive training Studios, the soap moved to Manchester’s and posting their results to social media. and thorough examination. Media City. The new set is a replica of the For tickets go to There are over 1000 Blue Badge Guides original – paved with 54,000 cobbles it took www.itv.com/coronationstreet/tour in England, Scotland, Wales and Northern 3,000 builders more than two years to create. For a guided Coronation Street tour Ireland – each region has its own badge. The original set featured actors such as of Manchester visit: We guide in all the UK’s major tourist Sir Ian McKellen who played Mel www.newmanchesterwalks.com attractions, as well as its cities and countryside. Dick Interred In 2013 Guild guides Following the death of Richard III in 1485 Shakespearean hunchback, but a deformity worked with over 1.5 at the Battle of Bosworth Field, the location that would have left him with a short trunk of the king’s body became a mystery. It and one shoulder slightly raised. million UK visitors wasn’t until August 2012 that the last The discovery of Richard’s body had one Plantagenet monarch’s remains were found; final twist. The king was allied to the House The Blue Badge is the qualification underneath a car park in Leicester, the site of York, and a group of ‘Yorkists’ lobbied for of excellence in heritage guiding. of a former monastery demolished during his bones’ final resting place to be their city’s The Guild of Registered Tourist Guides the reformation. minster. On May 23rd, nearly two years after is the national association of Britain’s Blue Leicester is marking the discovery with a Richard’s body was found, the high Court Badge guides. Since its foundation in 1950, new £4m visitor centre. The exhibition, entitled ruled that Richard III should be buried in the Guild has dedicated itself to raising and Richard III: Dynasty, Death and Discovery, is in Leicester Cathedral. maintaining the highest professional the city’s former grammar school building – From 2015 visitors to the Leicester exhibition standards. overlooking the car park where King Richard’s will be able to explore the king’s history Our guides work in the UK’s museums, bones were uncovered. through interactive displays and hands-on galleries, churches and lead walking, Richard’s reputation was defined by the exhibits. They can follow the science and cycling and driver-guided tours throughout brutal struggle of the Wars of the Roses. technology used to identify Richard’s body, the country. Our members work in over 30 Shakespeare’s history play cast him as the then walk the short distance to the cathedral to different languages. If it can be guided, crookbacked murderer of two innocent princes see his final resting place. The exhibition we will guide it. in the . There was no firm opens on the 26th July 2014. To find out more or to book: evidence that any of this was true. 0207 403 1115 [email protected] But when the body was analysed, the bones For a guided tour of Leicester visit: www.britainsbestguides.org revealed a spinal scoliosis; not enough for a full www.britainsbestguides.org 4 from around the UK WATS-ON IN LONDON The enduring appeal of the world’s most famous (fictional) detective will be celebrated in a forthcoming exhibition at the . Objects on show include an oil portrait of Sir Arthur Conan Doyle, on public display for the first time in the UK; the original manuscript of The Adventure of the Empty House; and the iconic Belstaff coat and camel dressing-gown worn by Benedict Cumberbatch in the BBC Sherlock television series. The exhibition re-enactments, explosive displays, lectures investigates how Conan Doyle came up and shows. with the ideas for his stories, and the The War and the Horse display looks origins of the instantly recognisable at the heroism and sacrifice of the men, symbols, such as the magnifying glass, women and horses on the WWI frontline. pipe and deerstalker. Sherlock Holmes Aerial combat also features, with a full-scale opens on 17th October. replica of a First World War biplane. The For a Sherlock Holmes JOUST FOR YOU WWII event involves troops, armoured tour of London visit: vehicles and (weather permitting) a vintage www.britainsbestguides.org warbird aircraft. Kelmarsh Hall in Northamptonshire is Battle re-enactments and displays include will demonstrate legionary warfare. staging a summer festival of entertainment. the Cavaliers and Roundheads of the English To put this all in context, some of Britain’s History Live takes place on July the 19th and Civil War in action at the Battle of Marston leading historians and expert speakers will 20th, billing itself as Europe’s largest living Moor (1644), as well as the Battle of Stoke be giving talks and lectures. history event. The weekend of activities Field (1487) and the Battle of the Standard includes 2,000 re-enactors, costumed (1138). Fans of medieval history can watch For more information visit: interpreters and performers; with battle jousting, while the Imperial Roman Army www.historylive.com A Picture of Turner JMW Turner is an unlikely subject for a film. The irascible painter led tempest in order to paint the snowstorm. a secretive life, but Mike Leigh’s bio-pic has got critics enthusing, with Turner’s art made him wealthy, and though he was lorded by the Timothy Spall’s portrayal of the artist taking the best-actor award at critics, his radical later works confused many art patrons: Queen the Cannes Festival. Victoria’s sentimental taste meant she loathed his paintings. In his Mr Turner tells the story of the last quarter century of his life. final years the artist refused an offer of £100,000 from During the 1820s the artist was profoundly affected by the death of a millionaire who wants to buy all his work – Turner bequeathed his his father. Doted on by his stoical housekeeper – who he takes for paintings to the nation. granted and occasionally exploits sexually – he secretly takes up with The artist has become something of an icon for British films. a widowed landlady, living incognito with her in Chelsea. When Skyfall, the most recent Bond film, shows the secret agent sitting in Turner dies, the landlady discovers the shocking truth. the , contemplating Turner’s most famous work: The The film explores Turner’s relentless desire to understand weather Fighting Temeraire. effects – in one scene he has himself tied to the mast of a ship in a

Mr Turner opens in September. For a Blue Badge guided tour of Turner’s work visit: www.britainsbestguides.org 5 SOMETHING FOR EVERYONE Provided By English Heritage English Heritage looks after a wealth of beautiful properties in London that are perfect for groups, families, couples and individuals – there is something for everyone, from history lover to thrill seekers!

to escape the hustle and bustle of the and visit Charles’ study where ‘On city (and still have wonderful views the Origin of Species’ was written. of it) • Experience the Regency splendour • Discover the ‘King’s Privy of the home of the Duke Of Wardrobe’! Visit the 650 year old Wellington – – remains of medieval on . Palace, Jewel Tower, standing • Immerse yourself in 1930’s Art opposite the Houses of Parliament Deco decadance in the splendour • Climb up Wellington Arch, built to of Eltham Palace in Greenwich. celebrate the Duke of Wellington’s victory at Waterloo. See glorious views over London’s Royal Parks and watch as the Household Cavalry pass underneath you. • Grab a guided tour of elegant Georgian villa Rangers House in • Be awed by the decadent William , housing the interiors of Chiswick House in Wernher Collection of sumptuous Chiswick with opulent ceilings and silver, jewels and paintings. stunning velvet wallpapers on the • Relive the fashionable Georgian life first floor. at Marble Hill House, built snuggly • Housing a world class art collection – by the Thames in Richmond. including Rembrandt, Turner and • Visit Down House, the home of Vermeer – Kenwood House beside Charles Darwin, in Downe, Kent. heath is the perfect place Step back in time to the Victorian era

6 Mozart’s COSÌ FAN TUTTE 16 May – 6 July

Bizet’s THE PEARL FISHERS 16 – 5 July

Mozart’s THE MARRIAGE OF FIGARO 16 Oct – 23 Nov

Puccini’s LA BOHÈME 29 Oct – 6 Dec

GREAT GROUP RATES AVAILABLE Call our box office on 020 7845 9300 or your preferred agent for more details

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London Coliseum St Martin’s Lane, London, WC2N 4ES | Visit us eno.org | Find us on 7 MORE THAN BISHOPS AND KINGS

Presenter and historian Amanda Vickery tells Sophie Cambell about her fascination with Georgian Britain

8 This is Amanda Vickery’s year. from her first courtship had survived.’ On 1 August 1714, Queen Anne That relationship, between Elizabeth died and the Hanoverian King and her second cousin, took place in George I succeeded to the British 1745 and in the best romantic tradition throne. Three centuries later, the her parents disapproved of the match. Georgians are everywhere. And ‘They had this thrilling courtship,’ Georgians are Professor Vickery’s explains Vickery, ‘He used to come specialist subject. to meet her secretly and stay until the ‘I wasn’t always focused on the early hours, riding back home at 3am.’ Georgian period,’ she explains, Elizabeth eventually defied her ‘I began as a historian of the parents, married her lover and gave nineteenth century, but the records birth to three boys. Her husband died drove me back in time. And I must young and at the age of 38 she eloped admit I loved Jean Plaidy’s romantic with a wool merchant 17 years her Georgian novels.’ junior. ‘She caused a local sensation,’ In the past few months you may says Vickery, with relish, ‘and she have seen the historian and writer became known as the “Jolly Widow presenting a programme on BBC2 of Alkincoats”.’ It is this delight in about the charity première of Handel’s the human side of life that makes her Messiah at the Foundling Museum so good on telly. She likes people. in Bloomsbury. Her three-part series ‘Television happened after my first The Story of Women & Art has just aired book was published,’ she says, ‘Janice on the same channel and a new series Hadlow, who was then Controller of Voices from the – of BBC2, really believed in getting in dramatised extracts from eighteenth experts, whatever they looked like, century court cases – starts soon on whatever their style. She wanted BBC Radio 4. an expert, not an omni-presenter. Vickery came to broadcasting “Authoritative history” it’s called and relatively late. She was born into a long may it last!’ Vickery is a natural. family of former cotton weavers in She acknowledges the British Lancashire and grew up listening to fascination with all things Georgian, stories of everyday life in the mill but points out that the darker aspects towns of industrial Britain. of the period are often ignored. ‘The After taking a BA in history at the enduring fascination with Georgian University of London and a PhD at England we owe to the enduring Churchill College, Cambridge, Vickery popularity of Jane Austen,’ she says started teaching. She is now Professor simply, ‘It’s hard to get through school of Early Modern History – a period without reading her, and Pride & that in Britain stretches from the late Prejudice regularly tops the charts as middle ages to the Great Reform Act the nation’s favourite novel, but she of 1832 – at Queen Mary, University was very much at the end of the of London. Georgian period and there’s Vickery’s first book, The Gentleman’s a stately calm about her work, a Daughter: Women’s Lives in Georgian politeness, a distance from the real England, published in 1998, grew out ructions of her world.’ of her PhD thesis, which focused on In stark contrast, the first two king the letters and diaries of a young Georges spoke very little English and eighteenth century Lancashire were seasoned warriors. ‘They weren’t gentlewoman called Elizabeth Parker very attractive and they were culturally Shackleton. barren, but they were Protestant,’ ‘In the Lancashire Record Office Vickery says, ‘and they brought with in Preston I found 39 diaries by them the fighting tactics from years Elizabeth,’ she says, ‘and what was of European wars. Their defeat of the exciting to me was that her love letters Scottish Jacobites at Culloden in 1746 There’s a clear consensus of opinion from television critics and public alike about Amanda Vickery’s broadcasting. They like the fact that she is down-to-earth, not pompous, and she likes digging up the human aspects of history 9 of the Foundling Museum of the Foundling Interview: Amanda Vickery Amanda Interview:

The Foundling Hospital painted by Thomas Coram George Frideric Handel © courtesy of Bridgeman Art Library Frideric Handel © courtesy of Bridgeman George in the care of the Hospital © Coram and view Thomas Coram of Portrait William Hogarth self portrait Thomas Coram by William Hogarth George Frideric Handel by Thomas Hudson

was one of the filthiest battles ever realities, often referred to as ‘the self-made man, Hogarth was a fought on British soil.’ middling sort’. The ones she really struggling painter who made it and ‘Hindsight has persuaded us that likes are the ambitious, fallible, Handel’s career as a writer of religious the Hanoverian dynasty was bound ‘scrambling middle.’ works was on the skids until he to survive, when in fact it wasn’t at all’, Three of them were featured in her reinvented himself as a composer she adds. ‘Many monarchs had been Messiah programme. The Foundling of naughty Italian operas. That deposed in the past and, as she Hospital, set up in 1739 by sea captain, ‘scrambling middle’ is so distinctive observes drily, we had killed a king just Thomas Coram, who was shocked by of the eighteenth century; men and 65 years before.’ All this is safely off- the numerous abandoned children he women with an eye on the main stage in Jane Austen’s novels. ‘She was saw on London’s streets, was greatly chance.’ well aware of it,’ says Vickery, ‘what did aided in its charitable activities by the She explains that although Messiah she write? “Other pens dwell in misery composer George Frideric Handel and is by far the most popular oratorio we and guilt” – it wasn’t an oversight.’ the English painter, William Hogarth. have, many people don’t realise that it What intrigues Vickery is the class ‘That’s what I like about that story,’ really caught the public’s attention of people between these two Georgian says Vickery. ‘Coram was a scrambling, only when it was performed at the

10 It is this delight in the human side of life that makes her so good on telly. She likes people

‘…there’s something very moving about these three Factfile childless men – Handel, Hogarth Amanda Vickery is the and Coram – all involved with prize-winning author of The Gentleman’s Daughter and a hospital for foundling children’ Behind Closed Doors: At Home in Georgian England She has recently been Foundling Hospital. ‘There had been earth, not pompous, and she likes appointed Professor of Early two performances before this, but it digging up the human aspects of Modern History at Queen Mary, didn’t really take off,’ she says, ‘this was history. They like her attention to University of London. She when it found its moment. And there’s domestic details and the strong sense lectures on British social, something very moving about these of humdrum, everyday reality she political and cultural history. three childless men – Handel, Hogarth brings to her analysis of the past. Amanda writes and presents and Coram – all involved with a People always ask her if she lives in a history documentaries for hospital for foundling children. I Georgian rectory with flowers around television and radio. Her TV suppose you would call it enlightened the door. To which she replies ‘I wish!’ series ‘At Home with the self-interest, really. They were well A bit of gritty texture to her history, Georgians’ aired on BBC2 in aware of the advantages to themselves, that’s what Vickery really likes. ‘There’s December 2010. as well as to the hospital.’ The evening more to history than bishops and Amanda’s greatest weakness was a huge success. It was, in effect, kings,’ she says, ‘I love political and is a love of clothes. the first ever charity première. economic history, but social and To find out more about There’s a clear consensus of opinion domestic history is my passion. Amanda Vickery’s upcoming from television critics and public alike There are many rooms in the books and programmes, see about Amanda Vickery’s broadcasting. mansion of history!’ www.amandavickery.com They like the fact that she is down-to-

11 MY FAVOURITE Blue Badge Guides show you their favourite places around the UK

...GARDEN GRAFFITI

…is Barbara Hepworth’s sculpture garden in St Ives. It is a gem, a green oasis in the bustling and colourful old Cornish fishing village. This tiny garden, which was part of her Banksy’s work may be controversial studio, is populated with palm but his art grabs attention. Two of his trees, camellias and roses. works are free to view, but you have It celebrates the work of a great to know where to stand for the best artist in the most touching and place to see them in all their glory. beautiful setting. For Hepworth, The Grim Reaper is on the side of the ‘finding Trewyn Studio was a Thekla ship moored in Bristol’s sort of magic’. The collection floating harbour and Well Hung Lover of her favourite works in this may be seen from the bottom of Park magical, secluded garden is St. These satirical illustrations are simply wonderful. just one of the many reasons I love guiding people around Bristol. Florence Clarke, South West Blue Badge Guide Mike Rowland, SW Blue Badge Guide [email protected] [email protected]

...CASTLE

…is Herstmonceux Castle in Sussex. As a Driver Guide, people sometimes ask me to take them to a castle that is off the beaten track. This 15th-century fortress is very unusual as it is built of brick. It has a proper moat and the Elizabethan gardens are wonderful – in summer the blooming rhododendrons and azaleas are fabulous. The woodland walks offer a nature trail and excellent views of the castle. Michael Robinson, London Blue Badge Guide [email protected]

12

Old Hat

Vikings didn’t wear horned helmets in battle. It would have been completely impractical to perch a wobbly, pronged helmet on your head, while energetically cutting down unsuspecting English Christians. But Vikings did drink from vessels made from horns. ‘Skoll!’ LEGEND LIE AN DEAD SCARED

Hannah Beswick was terrified of being buried alive. In 1758 she left money to her doctor on condition that her body was kept above FACTS AND FICTION ground and regularly checked for signs of life. To save himself too much trouble Dr White embalmed the body and had it placed in an old grandfather-clock case, so that he could check her along with the barometer on his OLDE WORDY way out of the house in the morning. The late Mrs Beswick became a English is full of word fossils – terms that were once part of our local celebrity. She was bequeathed language, but today are only found in popular idioms. Here are to the Manchester Museum, where some familiar relics: she was put on display as ‘the Shrift – a confession or penance imposed by a priest, something Manchester Mummy’. In 1868 it you would definitely want to keep short. ‘Short shrift’ came from the was decided that Beswick was dead practice of allowing a little time for the condemned to make a enough to be buried – 110 years confession before being executed. So nobody wanted to be after her demise. given short shrift. Roughshod – during a snowy winter, horses were fitted with shoes with protruding nail heads to stop them slipping. You really didn’t want to be ridden over by a roughshod horse. Eke – comes from an old verb meaning to add, supplement, or grow. It’s the word that gave us ‘eke-name’ for an additional name. Over time this mutated to become a ‘nickname’.

14 knock knock folks

Knocker-uppers were the alarm clocks of Victorian Britain. During British and American the industrial revolution they were shoe sizes are based on hired to go around the town with a barleycorns. In Anglo-Saxon pole, knocking on people’s bedroom times the smallest unit of windows to wake them for work. measurement was the width But who would wake up the knocker- of a corn of barley. Sizes are upper? That job fell to the derived from the largest knocker-upper’s knocker-upper. measure: 12 (twelve inches One famous knocker-upper was = one foot). You then count Mary Smith of Limehouse, who backwards in barleycorn woke people by firing a pea-shooter units (a third of an inch) to at their windows. arrive at your shoe size. DS

BURSTING THE BUBBLE ES, Champagne, that quintessentially French drink, was D invented by the English. In the 1600s, only British N glass-makers knew how to create bottles that did not explode under pressure. 17th century vintners added sugar to bottled wine to make it fizzy – the method used to make sparkling wines today. The story that Dom Pérignon accidentally invented champagne is a 19th century myth. N FROM BRITISH HISTORY

Edmund II, known as Edmund Ironside, was king of England in 1016. His seven-month rule ended on the latrine. An enemy Viking lurking in the pit below thrust his sword with such force up the royal passage that it was fatally embedded in the king’s bowels. One morning in October 1760 King George II went into his close stool at for his daily royal relief. After some moments his valet heard a crash, running in he discovered that the king had fallen from the regal potty, and was lying on the floor dead.

15 Marc Zakian explores two- Feature thousand years of British beer- making, uncovering the history of the country’s favourite alcoholic drink

Fuelling the burner in the brew house, Shugborough Estate

In 100AD Flavius Cerialis, England? Probably not. Medieval But a royal decree could not prevent commander of a Roman legion brewers made ‘small beer’, much bad brews. In 1355 at Oxford’s posted to the windy wilds of weaker in alcohol than modern ales. Swindlestock Tavern, two university Northumbria, sent out a request: Women were the cornerstone of scholars complained about the quality “My fellow soldiers have no beer. . Brewsters (female for brewer) of their drink; after an exchange of Please order some to be sent”. and ale-wives prepared and sold beer at words, the students threw their beer in This is the first written reference home, tending the brew pot for many the taverner’s face and assaulted him. in English history to ale, a keynote hot and sticky hours. Good ale-wives Armed clashes between locals and to a drink that has nourished the safeguarded their own recipes, adding students followed, leaving 63 scholars British people – from its armies to flavour to beer to make their brew stand and 30 locals dead. its infants – for thousands of years. out. When it was ready they would place And so a beer police was born. The wine-loving Romans developed an ale-wand outside to let everyone Ale-conners were appointed to ensure a taste for British beer, constructing know it was on sale – the prototype the goodness and wholesomeness of maltings and brewhouses throughout of the sign. ale and beer, and that it was sold at a the country. A writing tablet from fair price. To stop this becoming the Vindolanda Fort on Hadrian’s Wall “There shall be most sought after job in medieval records the UK’s first known professional Britain, these ‘taisters of ale’ were brewer: Atrectus. Beer-makers, it seems, standard measures instructed not to ‘fill their bellies, or were valued members of the community. of ..ale…throughout drink overmuckle’ in case they lost ‘the discretion of tasting’. MERRY ENGLAND the kingdom” Clergy also got in on the beer Ale kept medieval Britain alive. Local clause 35 Magna Carta business. Local parishes held church- water supplies were often contaminated, ales, where brews were sold to raise but beer was boiled during brewing and money for church expenses and to alcohol killed dangerous bacteria, A ‘BREWSING’ ENCOUNTER help the poor; there were lamb-ales making it safer than the parish well. There were no controls on beer and (held at lamb-shearing), Whitsun-ales It sustained the working people. poor quality brews passed off in short and, when a parishioner married, a In the 14th century half a worker’s measures regularly sparked quarrels. bride-ale. If the couple needed new wages were paid in ale. Peasants and Disputes were so widespread that clothes for their wedding, the beer labourers fuelled their toils with ten England’s seminal human rights sales covered the cost. daily calorie-rich pints, while women document – Magna Carta, signed by Bishops sometimes tried to stop and children drank five pints a day. King John in 1215 – includes a ruling drinking in church, demanding that So was this, literally, merry (drunk) on beer. “no priest be an ale sop”, but no 16 Elizabethan Englanders could chose from a vast authority could separate an Englishman CARRIED AWAY BY variety of different brews, from his beer jug. Quaffing continued, THE celebrating almost any occasion – there In the 1700s there was a craze for bearing evocative names were even ‘cuckoo-ales’ to mark the first a new, dark ale: porter. Its name such as The Mad Dog, birdsong of spring. came from the ale’s popularity Father Whoreson, Angels’ with London’s market porters. Food, Dragons Mile, Go-by- HOPPY NEW BEER This was the first ale to be aged In 1428, the first hops were planted at the brewery and dispatched in the-Wall, Stride Wide and in England. This signalled the rise of a condition fit to be drunk beer. The words ‘beer’ and ‘ale’ are now immediately. Beer that could be Lift-Leg. interchangeable, but in Tudor times produced on an industrial scale beer was made with hops and ale with heralded the arrival of modern barley. Beer lasted longer, and ale – brewing barons. Many of their which quickly went stale – had to names are still with us, including GONE FOR A BURTON be drunk within three days. Samuel Whitbread , Benjamin As Britain’s empire spread around Kent became the heartland of Truman. Vast quantities of porter the world, its soldiers and civilians English hop production. In the 1520s, swilled though London, craved the familiar taste of English beer. Bow Brewery in London cornered the market for ales that slaked thirst in the dusty British Raj. Its factory was a short distance from East India Company’s Thames moorings; from here their ships exported thousands of gallons of ‘India ’ – the original IPA. In 1839 a railway line between London and Burton upon Trent was constructed. Now the town’s breweries could ship their ales speedily to London, Liverpool and around the globe. And Burton had a big the first hop farm was established near sometimes literally; the Meux advantage: its local water is rich in Canterbury and many of the county’s brewery’s vats near Tottenham sulphates, natural salts that accentuate barns were converted to oast houses Court Road could hold over hops, giving a uniquely irresistible for drying harvested hop flowers. Salty 5 million pints, and when one flavour. Bow Brewery floundered and mists that blow in from the Kent coast of them burst in 1814 eight people Burton’s beer-makers became masters give local hops a unique, zesty flavour. died in the deluge. of light ales. Britons at home also acquired a taste for pale ales. By late 19th century a quarter of UK beer production poured out from this Staffordshire town. Brewers became rich and powerful, they entered parliament and many were given titles – when brewing barons Allsopp and Bass joined the peerage, they were known as ‘the Beerage’.

The English euphemism “gone for a Burton” - meaning to have been killed - originated during World “beer is a simple recipe: War II. It’s a humorous water, barley, hops, yeast” suggestion that a missing comrade hada beer.nipped out for Natural mineral water, Shepherd Neame Brewery

17 18 Feature

directly on to Virginia, because

stopped at Plymouth Rock,

Pilgrims on the Mayflower

rather than continuing corporatism was becoming cheap tomakeandsoldatapremium. sterile, kegbeerthatwas easyand into serving pasteurised, carbonated, glowed from thebar. Pubswere tied promoted withaplasticred barrel that mass-produced, commercial beer– long-handled beerpump. making redundant thetraditional with artificiallypressurised metalkegs, Wooden beerbarrels were replaced serving beerwere inrapid decline. long-cherished ways ofmakingand By themiddleof20thcentury UNHOPPY DAYS Hop Pickers arrive inKenton horse buses1905

they ran out of beer. Any alternativetokegged Watney’s RedBarrel beersymbolised interloper. beer boughtinBritain–was aforeign – whichby 1990accountedfor50%of brews, they reminded peoplethatlager where drinkerscouldtry traditional Staging events around thecountry raged againstblandbrewery beer. Campaign forReal Ale (Camra), they decided tofightback. Forming the search forprofits by accountantsandexecutivesinthe making was slowlydying, murdered 1986 there were 117. British beer- over 3,000breweries intheUK. By start ofthe20thcentury there were increasingly difficulttofind. At the READER OFFER In 1971agroup ofaleenthusiasts and usethisdiscount code:BBG10. visit ww.nationaltrustbeerclub.co.uk Magazine. discount toreaders ofTheGuide work. Theclubisoffering a10% earns valuableincomeforits charitable greater choice,andtheNationalTrust members. Soconsumersare given andcidersdirectly toits with aleenthusiasts,deliveringartisan Beer Clubconnectscraftbeermakers to awiderpublic.TheNationalTrust small breweries todistributetheirales different beers.Butitisdifficult for in theUK,making,total,4000 In 2014there are over1,000breweries today’s Britishbrewing renaissance. justifiably claimtohave inspired at 1147, a70-year high. They can 2014 putsthenumberofUKbreweries foundation, Camra’s GoodBeerGuide buildings. Four decadessinceits for preservation ofhistoricpub from casksandbottles. Itcampaigns carbonated andfermented, andserved with traditional ingredients, naturally members. Itsupportsbeermade

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century buildings in Greenwich had MEANTIME – LONDON last seen brewing in 1860 and this Tucked away on an industrial estate revival was masterminded by Rod in one of the less-celebrated parts of Jones – Meantime brewer and one of Greenwich is one of the UK’s most the UK’s 50 beer sommeliers. Every six influential new beer makers: weeks, Jones produced an original beer Meantime. The brewery was founded using traditional copper vats (one in 1999 by south Londoner, Alistair punningly named Hospital Porter) Hook. Its mission: to bring quality which was matched with chef Daniel beer to the people. Doherty’s food. At the turn of the century times But if Meantime is on a mission were mean for beer in London. The to make the world take British beer capital was down to its last brewery seriously again, they want the journey (Fullers in Chiswick) and the city’s to be a fun one. Brewery visits are ’ only offer was corporate, fizzy hosted by Alex Morgan, a cockney ales. Beer making was ruled by banter-merchant whose motto is accountants, not brewers. ‘A barrel of beer and laughs’. The Meantime set out to change that. comedy tastings are followed by a They insisted on quality ingredients: technical tour of the gleaming steel Yakima Valley hops from Washington beer-making machines – the highlight State (there’s a three year waiting list being a robotic arm that lifts and twirls kegs as if they were thimbles. to get hold of them) and Scottish malts Naval College Brewery (also used for fine whisky). They In the fifteen years since Meantime mature their brews in vats for six was founded over 50 craft brewers To book a tour visit: weeks (most commercial breweries have opened in London. This www.meantimebrewing.com/ allow just three days) and, most Greenwich brewer has inspired brewery-tour importantly, never add chemicals a generation. or pasteurize beers. The brewery has revived traditional London ales, producing porter (which disappeared during the 1950s), pale ales (using traditional Kentish hops) and a London lager. The effort was rewarded with medals in the World Beer Cup and their first pub, the Greenwich Union, was lauded in the media. In 2009, Meantime opened a three- story brew-house and restaurant in the Old Royal Naval College. The 17th The Meantime Brewery MANCHESTER MARBLE BEERS In 1997 the Pub was in Marble’s Dobber was voted the On the first Sunday and third trouble. To bring in sufficient revenue best IPA in the UK, and tweets go out on Tuesday of the month, manager the owners had to choose between social media when a new batch reaches Gaz Bee runs tours of the brewery. opening a karaoke room or a the pubs. Choc Ginger is a dark-ale so Visitors see how Marble produces brewhouse. Fortunately the landlords rich in malts that even though it has no 20,000 pints of beer each week, as decided on a brewery. Sixteen years chocolate added, it tastes as if it does. well as tasting the malts and hops later Marble Beers’ mix of traditional The Earl Grey IPA is flavoured with a and sampling the beers. and innovative ales are a favourite dash of tea, and their Ginger Ale is with Mancunians. made with fresh ginger and chilli. www.marblebeers.com

19 SHUGBOROUGH ESTATE

Shugborough Estate is the ancestral home of the Earls of Lichfield. In the Feature 1800s the title belonged to the Anson family. They preferred ale to wine, and had individual beers prepared to their taste: Lord Anson’s brew was a strong bitter, while Lady Anson supped a light .

The Bottle Car THE NATIONAL BREWERY CENTRE – BURTON-ON-TRENT

Burton is the heartland of British beer batch, including Red Shield, a light ale brewing. In recent decades many of its that was created for the centre. iconic breweries – names such as Bass “In our Edwardian bar you can try and Worthington – have been 1920s pub games, such as shove swallowed up by multinational brands ha’penny and ‘The Devil among the with no history in the town. Tailors’ [skittles]. A polyphone machine But the people of Burton are baptised plays music from the era. After that you in ale, and they took to the streets to visit a 1960s bar to see how pubs have prevent the Bass Beer Museum from changed. The Staffordshire estate dedicated being closed down. In 2008 it reopened “We’ve got some great vintage itself to satisfying its masters, with fields as The National Brewery Centre. “Our machinery. Every brewery had its own of hops and barley as well as huge daily tours take the visitor through the fire department, and we’ve preserved brewing operations. Part of the staff’s beer making process and recreate the life The Waterwitch fire-engine from salary was paid in ale, with each servant of workers and their families,” explains Mitchell and Butlers. We have period entitled to eight pints of ‘small beer’ a head guide Des Mconigle, who comes lorries, a working threshing machine, day (a 0.2% ale made from the final from a family of Burton brewery steam engines from the Bass maltings workers. and the White Shield bottle car from the brewers’ batch). Nothing went to waste: “We start with the story of malt and 1920s. It is actually a Rover that still runs. leftover hops were fed to pigs and beer ‘Norkies’, men from Norfolk, who came “There’s a nostalgia for the old ways barrels were reused in the laundry. to Burton to work in the maltings. In of transporting beer. Joe our shire horse Shugborough’s Victorian, wood-fired, 1902 they were replaced by Saladin, a gets lots of attention. During the brick brew-house still works. Visit the large, French malting machine. That summer we hook him up to a dray for estate on the third Sunday of the same year King Edward VII visited Bass – rides around the town centre. There’s a month and this steamy building will be the brewery named a mash tun after working model of the Bass railway in full swing. Staff from the local Titanic him, and produced a celebratory King’s system that delivered beer to the brewery oversee the brews, and visitors Ale. We still produce royal brews for mainline stations, and the last remaining can sample authentic aristocratic ales special occasions. beer steam train. The visit ends with a as well as servants’ ‘small beers’. “Our working microbrewery is run by tasting, where we try Burton beers and www.nationaltrust.org.uk/ our head brewer and Jo the (female) ales from around the country.” shugborough-estate brewster. It produces 6,000 pints in one www.nationalbrewerycentre.co.uk LITTLE SCOTNEY FARM

Little Scotney Farm is at the heart Londoners coming to Kent every traditional oast houses in the of the Weald, on the borders of Kent autumn. Many pickers slept in UK still used to dry hops in the and Sussex. It is the only National rough shelters next to the farms, traditional way. The hops are Trust farm still involved in the and Scotney has preserved a group taken to nearby Westerham, production and processing of hops. of hoppers’ shelters and kitchens where a micro-brewery turns Hop picking was an annual for visitors to see. them in Little Scotney Ale. working holiday for the people The Scotney Oasts were built www.nationaltrust.org.uk/scotney- of London, with some 80,000 in 1871. Today they are the only castle

20 SHEPHERD NEAME – KENT Shepherd Neame was born from the of the National Hop Collection – a Kentish countryside. The Faversham field outside Faversham with over fields team with trellises of tangy 250 different historic varieties. Alan hops. When brewed together with asks if I’m sure that I want to try dry mineral-rich water that percolates hops, pointing out that this is where through chalk underneath their beer beer gets its bitter flavour. As the factory, the result is a zesty beer that bitter surge pricks the back of my has sustained the men and women of tongue, I realise I should have Kent since 1698. heeded his warning. Britain’s oldest brewery is still run Shepherd Neame’s history is by the Neame family. Proud of their preserved in its building: the heritage, when I arrive at the visitors Victorian malthouse, a collection centre – a 15th century hall-house, of classic beer vans, and two 18th complete with wooden beams and century gleaming green steam chandelier decorated with beer engines – no longer used but bottles – the weekly get-together maintained in working order – are for retired brewery workers is in reminders that this was one of the full swing. country’s first steam-powered Hops in hand A tour of Shepherd Neame breweries. combines history and modern beer The beers take their names from production. Alan, my guide, begins local history. Bishop’s Finger was with a lesson in English brewing one of the first strong ales to be terminology. Water (known as liquor) brewed when wartime malt rationing is added to malted barley, mashed in ended in the late 1950s. It recalls a tun (Shepherd Neame’s century- the finger signposts that pointed old giant oak cask) to produce a wort pilgrims on their way to the tomb (liquid that makes beer). This is of the martyred Archbishop boiled in a large copper (container) Thomas Becket in Canterbury. where hops are added for flavour Spitfire Ale was first brewed in and yeast converts sugars to alcohol. 1990 to commemorate the 50th As Alan points out, “beer is a anniversary of the Battle of Britain, simple recipe: water, barley, hops, and the famous fighter aircraft yeast. It’s how you mix them that once flew over Kent to face together that make the difference in down the Luftwaffe. Any brew- the glass”. To illustrate the point he house that maintains and displays lets me taste different barleys; from the cockpit section of a Spitfire is a light, golden, biscuity malt to a well worth a visit. Kentish Hop Garden heavily cooked, toasty brown grain. After the malt come the hops. Kent To book a visit to Shepherd Neame: is the original home of English hops www.shepherdneame.co.uk and Shepherd Neame are guardians

Malted Barley

Shepherd Neame Cask Yard in the 1930s

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Tour de force Tour Graduates of the include both politicians and rogues. Green Badge Guide Rob Walters tells Marc Zakian about some of the city’s famous and infamous students

As we stand in the shadows of Oxford’s ‘dreaming spires’, Rob Walters reels off an extraordinary set of statistics: “Britain has had 53 prime ministers, 26 of them went to university here, and of the 650 MPs in our current House of Commons, 114 are Oxford graduates.” “Behind us is Balliol. It’s just one of Oxford’s 38 colleges, yet it has produced three Prime Ministers: Herbert Asquith, Harold Macmillan – more of him later – and Edward Heath.

24 And the college rogues? “Well, in this case” says Rob, “it’s not a politician – though many people maintain they are all rogues – but the writer Graham Greene. While at university he got up to the traditional student pranks such as stealing road signs; but after he married a young girl from the local bookshop he indulged in visits to a long list of prostitutes – and it was literally a list with nicknames and comments. Greene was a serial adulterer; his novel The End of the Affair is based on one of the writer’s extra-marital relationships. “Howard Marks was another Balliol bad boy. The Welsh author gained notoriety as an international smuggler. While at Oxford he fiddled his Photography Ralph Williamson physics degree by cheating in the Christ Church College practical exams. He blames his downfall switch infants around and watch the changed his mind, and supported the on the loose bars on his ground floor horrified reactions of returning mothers. Emancipation Bill when it passed in window. It became the after-hours “Shelley was a serial eloper, a parliament. Christ Church’s furious entrance to the college, exposing him proponent of free love and an egalitarian fellows hammered ‘No Peel’ in nails on to the influence of party-goers and radical. But it was the poet’s atheist the door at the bottom of the hall stairs. miscreants. views that so enraged the college’s “The protest is still visible today. Marks moved out of college to a Anglican fellows that in 1811 they Christchurch continues to be at the student house. “When the Welshman expelled him. When he later drowned heart of British politics, having produced vacated the building 1969, an American in an Italian boating accident, one 13 Prime Ministers – more than 20% moved in: Bill Clinton. The future newspaper wrote: ‘Shelley has been of this nation’s leaders.” president was a Rhodes Scholar at drowned, now he knows whether The last part of our tour takes us to University College. He left before there is a God or not’. north Oxford. “It’s a part of the city that completing his degree, but while at “University College made its peace rarely features on tourist visits,” Rob Oxford he learned to ride a bike, with the poet in 1893 when it took explains, “but it is immensely important developed an interest in rugby union possession of a fine statue of Shelley, because it tells the story of women at the and protested against the Vietnam War. but it had to be placed behind railings university. Five of the (formerly) all- “Most infamously it was while in to stop students from painting its female colleges were founded here Oxford that he tried but ‘did not inhale’ fingernails red. when women were admitted to the marijuana. Many years later a Mail on “The university’s Bullingdon Club university in the 1870s. Sunday journalist tracked down Howard was founded in 1780. This exclusive “My latest book is about the Marks and insisted he had known society is noted for its grand banquets relationship between two ground- Clinton at Oxford. Marks retorted that and boisterous rituals – such as ‘trashing’ breaking Oxford women. Dorothy ‘He never met anyone who smoked of restaurants and college rooms. It’s Hodgkin was a chemist credited with the joints without inhaling.’ where many future rulers’ unruly development of protein crystallography. “Another University College rogue youth has been played out.” In 1945 she was a Fellow at Somerville was the 19th century poet Percy Shelley. Past members include John Profumo, College and one of her students was Legend has it that Shelley attended only whose involvement with prostitute Margaret Roberts – better known to us one lecture while at Oxford, but Christine Keeler in 1963 helped topple by her married name: Thatcher. frequently read for sixteen hours a day. Harold Macmillan’s government. The “Hodgkin was an approachable, His room overlooked the high street Bullingdon Club’s class of 1987 includes liberal and tolerant woman. Thatcher shops where mothers would leave their current Prime Minister David Cameron was a remote, conservative and icy babies outside in baskets. Shelley would and Mayor of London Boris Johnson – figure. But they remained friendly for life. who once admitted to ‘dark deeds They were both female firsts: Thatcher as involving plastic cones and letterboxes’. Prime Minister and Hodgkin as the only Boris was upholding a long tradition British woman to win a Nobel Prize for of student mischief: in 1927 Bullingdon science. She was neither a politician nor members smashed the lights, windows a rogue, and deserves to be better and doors in the Peckwater Quad of known today.” If Rob has anything Christ Church. to do with it, she soon will. That college still bears the scars of one Rob’s books include: particular piece of ‘vandalism’. The 19th Oxford Rogues: Their City, Their Lives and century Prime Minister Sir Margaret Thatcher and Dorothy Hodgkin: was a Christ Church old boy. Initially he Political Chemistry opposed Catholic emancipation (earning For an Oxford tour with Rob Shelley Memorial him the nickname ‘Orange Peel’), but he visit: www.satin.co.uk 25 Angela Morgan takes us from the West End to Brixton

Tour de force Tour to reveal TOUR London’s Afro- Caribbean history Words and Photos by Marc Zakian and Photos by Marc Words

26 DE FORCE

“I owe my love of London to its Windrush – the boat that arrived in buses,” says Angela Morgan. 1948 carrying the first large group “Growing up in small-town, West Indian immigrants. But there is suburban Surrey, I would go on another, almost secret story of black teenage adventures, jumping on Londoners that goes back hundreds whichever bus had an exciting of years. Some of it we walk past sounding destination – the number every day without noticing. 9 to Kensington, the 73 to Holloway, “George Ryan is not a familiar the 2 to , the 1 to name, but he is commemorated in Surrey Quays. . One of the four “One day I journeyed east to reliefs on Nelson’s column depicts Bromley-by-Bow. The bus trip the Battle of Trafalgar. Nelson lies connected me with my family history. mortally wounded, to his left is Ryan My mother’s first job in London was at holding his musket and trying to the area’s St Andrew’s Hospital – she pick out the French sniper who shot was a student nurse who came from his admiral. Jamaica to work there in the 1950s. “Ryan was press-ganged in A short time later she met my father. Deptford in 1803. He is one of a “Daddy was also from Jamaica. number of black men who fought at In 1944, he enlisted in the RAF Trafalgar. Many had nowhere to go without telling his parents. Aged 18 once they were discharged, and they he walked down the hill of his ended up in the rookery slums near father’s remote farm – no-one knew . Billy Waters where he had gone. was one of them; an American who “Britain was looking to the Empire swapped slavery for the British navy. to support the war effort, and my He fell on hard times in London; father joined a group of Caribbean with only one leg he would busk servicemen billeted in freezing metal with his fiddle outside the Adelphi sheds in the Lincolnshire countryside. Theatre on the Strand. Waters was “My parents passed their love of known as the King of the Beggars – British culture on to me. This interest his popularity led to him appearing inspired me to qualify as a Blue on stage and featuring in paintings Badge Guide. But as well as guiding and porcelain figures. all the traditional tours, I want to “Ira Aldridge also acted on the show people London’s Afro- London stage. An American who Caribbean legacy, part of my history. came to London in the early 19th “It’s easy to imagine that black century to escape prejudice against history in Britain started with the African-Americans. He progressed

27 from humble dresser to notable was brought up in Brixton. He Shakespearean performer. Aldridge documented the tensions in his 1979 was the first black man to play Othello song The Guns of Brixton. After the riots – starring in that play at the theatre Eddy Grant had a big hit with Electric now known as . Avenue. The lyrics were a response to “Black people were involved in the what happened, but it also spoke of a struggle for 19th century political way forward: ‘Now in the street, there is reform. William Davidson was an violence, and lots of work to be done’.

Tour de force Tour illegitimate mixed-race lawyer, who “Work has been done to try to arrived in Britain from Jamaica aged improve the area and turn it into 14. He was part of the Cato Street a positive symbol for black culture. Conspiracy – a plan to murder the When American actor Will Smith prime minister and his cabinet. The visited he dubbed Brixton London’s plotters were discovered, and on May Harlem. In 1996 Nelson Mandela 1, 1820 Davidson – along with four made his first visit to London fellow conspirators – were publicly following his release. The South hanged then decapitated outside African leader made a point of Newgate Prison. coming to Brixton, and thousands “This group – as well as many of locals turned out to greet him. unknown black men and women – paved the way for the ‘Windrush Generation’ – large numbers who came to live and work in London in the 1950s. Many Jamaicans were temporarily housed in a deep-level air raid shelter in Clapham, before eventually settling in nearby Brixton. “Brixton’s reputation as a troubled Trafalgar Square Relief area goes back over three decades. In 1981 things came to a head when the police were confronted by disenchanted local youths. The authorities used the 1824 Vagrancy One day I Act to stop and search people they journeyed east thought were suspicious – nearly always young black males. Using to Bromley-by- old legislation to deal with modern Bow. The bus trip problems led to riots, property being destroyed and injuries to police connected me and civilians. “But trouble had been brewing with my family for some time. Paul Simonon, the guitarist and vocalist with The Clash, Ginger Sorrell Drink

28 “Brixton is where I introduce people as super-salty jerk chicken, curried to Anglo-Caribbean culture, music and mutton and goat, rice and peas and food. Nothing symbolises this more than fried dumplings. the Ital. This small shop makes a big “The cool place to visit is Brixton noise. Emblazoned with the Jamaican Village. It is home to a mix of African national colours, it announces itself with and Caribbean stalls, crafts, restaurants loud reggae music. The owner, who I call and coffee shops. And then there are the Ital Man, is a Rastafarian, and all the the hair shops with their extraordinary food he sells follow that belief. It is very displays of weaves, extensions, braids much a vegan diet, so no salt, no meat. and multi-coloured wigs. I finish our visit here with an invigorating drink of ginger-powered sorrell at Etta’s Seafood Kitchen. Brixton is where “Last stop on my tour is at ‘Brixton Speaks’, an artwork created by the I introduce people writer Will Self. It illustrates the speech to Anglo-Caribbean of Brixtonians, the text melding the sounds of south London Cockney culture, music and Jamaican patois to create an and food installation that lights up the end of Electric Avenue. It’s a favourite of mine One of the specialities is Irish Moss, as it is a celebration of the vibrancy a sea plant which is supposed to help and diversity of a Brixton that is now men with their fertility. on the tourist map.” “No tour of Brixton is complete without a visit to its markets. They are the home of West Indian food; from breadfruit, plantain, pigs’ feet and tails, For a tour of London with Angela, flying fish, giant African snails, to contact her at: [email protected] traditional Jamaican specialities, such 29 MY FAVOURITE Blue Badge Guides show you their favourite places around the UK

...PLACE ...MUSEUM ...is the Victoria and Albert Museum’s original restaurant. It is the most beautiful, atmospheric and tranquil place for the first cappuccino of the day. The V&A’s first director decided that the museum and the restaurant should be It is impossible not to be open at night for working people. He believed that they would get the best from touched by tiny love-tokens in the museum on a full stomach. I always picture Victorian visitors eating by gas- Bloomsbury’s Foundling Museum light before they tour the museum. – shrill symbols of troubled times that inspired Captain Thomas Annika Hall, London Blue Badge Guide [email protected] Coram to set up his pioneering children’s charity in 1739. Unwanted babies abandoned on London’s streets in distressing numbers inspired one good man to create a safe environment for a very fortunate few to get a chance in life. This was England’s first children’s charity. Coram’s work continues ...BUILDING today. This Museum celebrates an important institution, …is Manchester Town Hall. generously supported by Handel, Designed by architect Alfred Hogarth, Gainsborough, Dickens Waterhouse it has been described and Londoners through the ages. as ‘the greatest Gothic Revival Mark King, public building anywhere in the London Blue Badge Guide world’. The building is a testimony [email protected] to the city’s role as the powerhouse of the Industrial Revolution and the business of cotton, but its opening in 1877 was marred in controversy when Queen Victoria refused to attend. There are a myriad of stories to tell here, from the Anti-Corn Law League and the Lancashire Cotton Famine Committee to the world’s first nuclear-free city. Take a tour and afterwards relax in the Sculpture Hall cafe surrounded by the great and the good of the Victorian era. Sue Grimditch, Manchester Green Badge Guide 30 [email protected] THE MASTERPIECE IS COMPLETE The paint is dry and the doors are open. Come and take a look - Rembrandt, Gainsborough and Vermeer are inside waiting for you.

Hampstead