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New York & the Mid-Atlantic's Best Trips 3

New York & the Mid-Atlantic's Best Trips 3

©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

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WRITER THANKS love and support of my family, June McPartland for selling me including my extended family out that car. SIMON RICHMOND in Pennsylvania, who offered to Many thanks to Van Vahle, Tonny put me up and show me around KARLA ZIMMERMAN Wong and Curtis Maxwell Perrin as I was researching. Many Deep appreciation to all of the for insights, assistance and thanks too to the numerous locals who spilled the beans on hospitality along the way. guides, hotel receptionists, their favorite places. Thanks waiters and waitresses, and most to Eric Markowitz, the AMY C BALFOUR museum curators who took time world’s best partner-for-life, who I had a blast checking out my to share their info and views. kindly indulges my Abe Lincoln regional neighborhood. Special A lovely part of the planet, and fixation. You top my Best List. thanks to the following folks who one I hope to visit again soon. shared their favorite places: Readers, you’re in for a treat. ACKNOWLEDGEMENTS Dave Dekema, Sketchy, Barbra Climate map data adapted Byington, Ed and Melissa Reid, BRIAN KLUEPFEL Lynn Neumann, Lori Jarvis, from Peel MC, Finlayson BL & Paula Zorrilla, my guiding light McMahon TA (2007) ‘Updated Andrew McRoberts, Tom and co-pilot – I couldn’t have World Map of the Köppen- Fleming, Melissa and Mary done it without you. Trisha Ping, Geiger Climate Classification’, Peeler, Erin Stolle, Alicia Hay Greg Benchwick, Jane Grisman Hydrology and Earth System Matthai, Liz Smith-Robinson, and Dianne Schallmeiner at Sciences, 11, 163344. Alice Merchant Dearing, Severn LP for moral and technical Miller, James Foley, John Park, support.Tom Kluepfel, honorary Cover photographs: Front Suzie Lublin Tiplitz, Sharon mayor of Hoboken and ‘mutz’ (clockwise from top) Letchworth Nicely, Eone Moore Beck, Kendall maven. Laura Collins, Rebecca State Park, State/Getty Sims Hunt, Lee Bagby Ceperich, Rozen and her dog Gizmo for Images; Liberty Landing Marina, Justin Shephard, Tim Stinson, Hamptons knowledge and good New Jersey/Alan Copson, AWL; Trish Mullen and Steve Bruce. cheer. Stacey Borelli and Peggy Classic car, Virginia/Mark RAY BARTLETT Watson at Siemens for holding Summerfield, Alamy. Back: Bear the fort. The Ocean Grove cop This project couldn’t have Mountain State Park, New York who didn’t give me a ticket. happened without the awesome State/Tony Shi, Getty Images.

THIS BOOK Destination Editors Evan Godt, Sarah Reid, Gabrielle Stefanos, Lauren Keith, Trisha Ping Saralinda Turner This 3rd edition of Lonely Planet’s New York & Mid-Atlantic Product Editors Paul Harding, Cartographer Julie Dodkins Best Trips guidebook was Kate Mathews Cover Researcher Brendan researched and written by Simon Senior Cartographer Alison Lyall Dempsey-Spencer Richmond, Amy C Balfour, Ray Book Designer Wibowo Rusli Thanks to Anne Mason, Lauren Bartlett, Michael Grosberg, Brian O’Connell Kluepfel and Karla Zimmerman. Assisting Editors Janet Austin, This guidebook was produced by Andrea Dobbin, Carly Hall, the following: Jennifer Hattam, Anne Mulvaney,

342 ©Lone- ly Planet Publications Pty Ltd

INDEX

1000 Islands Tower 100 architecture 17, 20 40 1719 Hans Herr House 150-1 area codes 338 Bedford 301-2 Arkville 62 Bedford Wine Trail 302 A Armel-Leftwich visitor Beekman Arms 45 center 204 Abingdon 291-2, 293 Belle Isle 327 arts 20 Accokeek 216 Belle Isle State Park 319-20 ArtsQuest Center 126 accommodations 23, 46-7, Belleayre Beach 62 334-5 Asbury Park 110-11, 118 Belleayre Mountain 62 activities 20 Assateague Island National Belvedere Castle 51 Seashore 227-8 Adirondack Museum 84 Berkeley 311-12 Atlantic City 13, 143-4, 145 Adirondacks 77-85 Berkeley Castle 267 Atlantic City Historical African American Civil War Berkeley Springs 266-7, 271 Museum 144 Memorial 276 Berkshire Mountains 44 ATMs 336 Air Mobility Command Berlin 234, 240 Aurora 70 Museum 238 Bethany Beach 229, 231 Ausable Chasm 80 air travel 334 Bethel 136 Avenue of the Arts 174 airports 22, 334 Bethel Woods Center for the Albright-Knox Art Gallery 91 Arts 136 Alexandria Bay 100, 101 B Bethesda Terrace 51 American Falls 89 B&O Railroad Museum 188 Bethlehem 125-6, 129 American Revolution Baltimore 184-5, 191, 202-4, Bird-in-Hand 153 Museum at Yorktown 309 212, 244-5 Blackfriars Playhouse 297 American Visionary Art Barnegat Lighthouse 115 Blacksburg 302 Museum 188 Barrington Cellars 71 Blackwater Falls State Park Amish 154 , 220 Barr’s Fiddle Shop 291 268-9 Amstel House 239 Barter Theatre 292 Blackwater National Wildlife Andy Warhol Museum 177 baseball 63 Refuge 208-9 Annapolis 204, 212 Basilica of the Blenheim Vineyards 312 Antietam 274-5 Assumption 245 Blockhouse Point 195 Antique Boat Museum 98 Bass River State Forest 144 Blue Mountain Brewery 312 18, 263-71 Batona Trail 143 Blue Mountain Lake 84 Appomattox Court House Batsto 142-3 Blue Ridge Music Center 290-1 National Historical Park beaches 13, 17 Blue Ridge Parkway 15, 281, 283 Beacon 43-4, 46-7 295-305

343 boat travel 333, 334 Chesapeake Bay Maritime Cape May−Lewes Ferry C Museum 207 230 C&O Canal 194-5, 198 Chief Little Owl 229 Lake Champlain Ferries 80 Calicoon 132-4, 137 children, travel with 21 Lake George Steamboat Calvert Cliffs 190 Chincoteague Island 226, Cruises 79 Cambridge 207-8 325 Lander’s River Trips 132-4 Canal Street 103 Chincoteague National Wildlife Refuge 226 Lockport Cave & canoeing 238 Underground Boat Chrysler Museum of Art 322

INDEX Cape Henlopen State Park Tour 90 230 Church, Frederic 45 Maid of the Mist 89

Civil War sites 12, 273-81 B-C Cape May 117, 119 Whitehaven Ferry 209 Cape May Bird Clayton 98-9, 101 White’s Ferry 196 Observatory 117 climate 22 Boldt Castle 99, 100 Cape May−Lewes Ferry 230 Cloisters Museum & Bombay Hook National Cape May Lighthouse 117 Gardens 38 Wildlife Refuge 230 Cape May Point State Park Cold Harbor Battlefield Bombing Range Rd 144 117 279-80 border crossings 329-30 Capitol Visitor Center 242 College of William & Mary 310-11 Boscobel House & Gardens 40 car rental 22, 329 Colonial Beach 318, 324 Bradford 170, 173 cars, see driving Colonial Williamsburg 310 Branchport 71 Catamount Aerial Adventure Brandywine Creek State Park 44 Colton Point State Park 172 Park 238 Catawba Road 302 Columbus Park 102 Brandywine River Museum Catskills Mountains 59-65 Comcast Center 175 of Art 142 Cave of the Winds 89 Coney Island 13, 56 Brandywine Valley 238 Cayuga Lake 70, 74 Constitution Gardens 189 Bridal Veil Falls 89 cell phones 22, 337 Cooperstown 63 Bristol 292 Center for Photography at Cornell Botanical Gardens 69 Brown’s Island 326 Woodstock 64 Corning 73, 75 Brunswick 196-8 Center in the Square 303 Corning Museum of Glass 73 Bucks County 121-9 Central Market (Lancaster) costs 23 Budds Creek 219 148 Coudersport 173 Buffalo 90-1, 93 Central Park 17, 50-2 crab houses 209 buggy rides 154 Chadds Ford 142, 145 Crayola Factory 124-5 Bull’s Island Recreation Champion Brewing Company credit cards 336 Area 124 312 Crisfield 210-11, 213 Burchfield Penney Channing Daughters Crooked Road 285 Art Center 91 Winery 56 Crown Point State Historic Bushkill Falls 135 Charles Street 245 Site 79-80 bus travel 334 Charlotte 80 Cumberland 196 business hours 23, 337 Charlottesville 313-14, 315 customs regulations 335 Buttermilk Falls Chatham 44 (Delaware) 136 Cherry Springs State Park D Buttermilk Falls (Ithaca) 69 171, 173 Darwin Martin House 91 Byrd Visitors Center 258 Chesapeake Bay 323

344 Deep Creek Lake 267-8 road distances 330 ferry crossings 333 Delacorte Theater 51 road rules 331-2 Finger Lakes 67-75 Delaware 225-41 safety 332-3 Fire Island 54 Delaware & Ulster toll road 330-1 First State Heritage Park Station 62 websites 331 237 Delaware Art Museum 239 Duncan House 164 Fishers Gap Overlook 258 Delaware Center for the Dutch House 239 Fishkill Creek 43 Contemporary Arts 239 Fletcher’s Boat House 195 Delaware History Museum Flight 93 National E INDEX 239 Memorial 162 East Aurora 92, 93

Delaware Park 91 Flight of Five Winery 90 East Hampton 54-5, 57 D-G Delaware River 131-77 Floyd 288, 293 Easton (Maryland) 205, 212 Delaware Seashore State food 19-23, 46-7, 101, 204, Park 229-31 Easton (Pennsylvania) 124-5, 209 129 Delaware Water Gap National Fort Delaware Museum 134 Eldridge Street Synagogue Recreation Area 135 Fort Ligonier 160-1 103 Delmarva 225-31, 320 Fort McHenry 185 electricity 335 Derby Hill Bird Fort Montgomery State Elfreth’s Alley 127 Observatory 98 Historic Site 40 Elk Garden Trailhead 270 Dewey Beach 230 Fort Necessity 163 Elk Run Vineyards 188 Dia: Beacon 43 State Park 89 Elkwallow 254 Dickey Ridge Visitors Center State Historic 254 emergencies 22 Site 96 Dinosaur Land 253 Empire State Railway Fort Ticonderoga 79 Museum 62 disabilities, travelers with Fort William Henry Museum 338-9 Enoch Pratt Free Library 78-9 244 Dollywood 292 Fralin Art Museum 314 Ephrata 154-5 Dorchester Center for the Franklin D Roosevelt Arts 208 Erie Canal Discovery Home 44 Center 90 Dover 237, 240-1 Frederic Remington Art Dover Air Force Base 237-8 Essex 85 Museum 100 Doylestown 126-7 Frederick 189, 191 Drake Well Museum 170 F Fredericksburg 277, 282 driving 329-33, 334 Fairy Stone State Park 290 Freer-Sackler Museums of car rental 22, 329 Falaise 52 Asian Art 189 documents 329 Fallingwater 161-2 Front Royal 253, 260 driver’s license 329 family travel 21 Frontier Culture Museum 297 fuel 332 Farmington 165 fuel 22, 332 insurance 329 Fayetteville 269, 271 funicular railroads 164 maps 330 Fells Point 203 parking 332 Fenimore Art Museum 63 G petrol 22 Fenwick Island State Park Galax 291, 293 playlist 332 228-9 Galeton 171-2, 173 radio 333, 335 Fenwick St Used Books & Gambles Hill 327 road conditions 330 Music 220

345 Garden Maze 255 Harriet Tubman Underground Hull’s Drive-In movie theater Garnet Hill Lodge 84 Railroad National Historic 298 gas 22, 332 Park 209 Humpback Rocks 297 Gathland State Park 190 Harriman State Park 40 Hunt Country Vineyards 71 gay travelers 113, 335-6 Harry F Byrd Visitors Center Huntly 253 258 Geneva 71, 75 Hyde Park 44-5, 47 Hawk Mountain 126 George C Marshall Museum 298 Hawksbill 257-8 I George Washington Birth- Heart Island 100 INDEX ice hockey 81 place National Monument Heart Lake 82 Independence Hall 141

318-19 Herbert F Johnson Museum G-K Independence National George Washington & Jeffer- of Art 69 Historic Park 140-1 son National Forests 269 Herbert H Bateman Independence Seaport Georgetown (Delaware) Educational & Administra- Museum 127 236-7, 240 tive Center 226 Indian Head Peninsula Georgetown (Washington, Hershey 155 216-18 DC) 194-5, 199 Hickory Hill Winery 303 Inn at Little Washington 314 Gettysburg 150, 277 High Point State Park 136 Inns of Aurora 70 Gillian’s Wonderland 116 highlights 8-9, 10-19, 30-1 insurance 329 Globe Theater 234 hill country 187-8 Intercourse 154 Goat Island 89 Hillsdale 44 internet access 22, 336 Golden Nugget Antique Hiltons 292 internet resources 23, 331 Market 124 Hirshhorn Museum & Gordon’s Confectionery 210 Sculpture Garden 243 Island Beach State Park 113 Gore Mountain 84 Historic Huguenot Street Ithaca 69, 74 Graycliff Estate 90 60-1 Great Auditorium 112 Historic Jamestowne 310 J 84 Historic Ships in Baltimore James River 298-9 Great Dismal Swamp Na- 202-3 James River Plantations tional Wildlife Refuge 322 Historic Village at Allaire 311-12 Great Falls National Park 112 Jamestown 309-10 195, 199 history 21 Jefferson, Thomas 314 Greenport 52-3 55 Jenkinson’s 113 Grey Towers 134 holidays 337 Jersey Shore 109-19 Groundhog Mountain 290 Hollywood Cemetery 327 John Brown Wax Museum 270 Guaranty Building 90 horse country 187-8 John Dickinson Plantation Guild Hall 55 Horseshoe Falls 89, 92 238 Hubbard, Elbert 92 Julia A Purnell Museum 234 H Hudson 45, 47 Hudson Beach Glass 43 H Lee White Marine Museum K Hudson House 115-16 96-7 Kaaterskill Falls 63-4 Hudson Opera House 45 Hammondsport 75 kaleidoscope 62 Hudson Valley 37-47 Harpers Ferry 199, 264-5, Karma Triyana Hudson Valley Shakespeare 271 Dharmachakra 64 Festival 40

346 Katz’s Delicatessen 103 Lockport 89-90 mobile phones 22, 337 kayaking 228, 238 Loeb Boathouse 51 Mohonk Mountain House 61 Kennett Square 142 Long Beach Island 115-16 61 Kent Island 205 49-57 money 23, 336-7 Kentuck Knob 162-3 Longwood Gardens 142 Montauk 55, 57 Keuka Lake 71 Lucas Vineyards 70 Montauk Point Lighthouse 55 Keuka Spring Vineyards 71 Luna Park 56 Monticello 314 Kimmel Center for the Luray 254-5, 261 Moravian Museum of Performing Arts 174 Bethlehem 125-6

Luray Caverns 254 INDEX Kinzua Bridge State Park Morven Museum & Garden 123

170-1 M motorcycles, see driving K-N Kitchen Kettle Village 154 mountain climbing 61 Mabry Mill 289 Kykuit 40 Mountain Lake Hotel 268 Mac-Haydn Theatre 44 Mount Beacon 43 magazines 335 Mount Vernon 313 L Maid of the Mist 89 Mt Airy 187 La Plata 218, 223 Maison Bergogne 134 Mt Defiance 79 Lake Absegami 144 Manassas 282 Mt Rodgers 270 Lake Champlain Ferries 80 Manassas National Lake George 78-9, 85 Battlefield Park 276 Mulberry Street 102 Lake George Steamboat 46 Museum of the American Revolution 141 Cruises 79 Mansfield 172 Museum of the Lake Placid 81-2, 85 maps 330 Confederacy 281 Lambertville 124, 128 Mariners’ Museum 321 Lancaster 148-9, 156 Museum of the Shenandoah Market Square (Pittsburgh) Valley 254 Landis Valley Museum 148 176-7 music 332 Lathrop, William Langson Maryland 183-223 Mystery Hole 266 126-7 Maryland Historical Society Laurel 235-6, 240 245 Laurel Highlands 159-65 Maryland Science Center 188 N Lee Chapel & Museum 298 Maryland State House 204 Nabb Research Center 208 Leonard Harrison State Mashomack Nature Narrowsburg 134, 137 Park 172 Preserve 53 National Aquarium 202 Leonardtown 220, 223 Mathews Arm 254 National Archives 243 lesbian travelers 113, 335-6 Mechanicsville 220 National Baseball Hall of 92, 93 measures 335 Fame & Museum 63 Lewes 230, 231 Mexico Bay 98 National Canal Museum 125 Lewis Mountain 258 Michener Art Museum 127 National Constitution Lexington 298, 304-5 Middlebury 80 Center 141 Liberty Bell 141 Milbrook Village 135-6 National Historic Road 183-91 Library of Congress 242 Milford 134, 137 National Mall 10, 189 Ligonier 160-1, 165 Minna Anthony Common National Museum of Lincoln, Abraham 150 Nature Center 99, 100 American History 276 Lincoln Memorial 189 Minnewaska State Park National Museum of the American Indian 243 Lititz 155, 157 Preserve 61

347 National Toy Train Museum Old Fort Niagara 89 phone cards 338 151-3 Old Rhinebeck Aerodrome Piedmont 312 National Women’s Hall of 45 Pine Barrens 144 Fame 70 Old State House 237 Pinnacle Overlook 151 Natural Bridge 298 Olympic Center 81-2 Pippin Hill 312 Nauticus 322 Olympic Jumping Complex 81 Piscataway Park 216 Naval Academy (Annapolis) opening hours 23, 337 Pittsburgh 164, 165, 176-7 204 Opus 40 64 playlist 332 Naval Station Norfolk 321-2 Oswego 96-8, 101

INDEX PNC Park 176 New Castle 238-9, 241 Oswego West Pierhead Pocomoke River State Park

New Hope 124, 128 Lighthouse 97 N -R 234 New Jersey 105-77 Otis Pike Fire Island Pocono Environmental New Jersey State Police Wilderness 54 Education Center 135 Museum 123 Otter Creek 298-9 Point Lookout 222 New Market 188-9 Overall Run Falls 254 Point Pleasant 112-13 New Museum of Oyster Bay 52 Point State Park 176 Contemporary Art 102 Popes Creek 218-19 New Paltz 60-1 P Port Tobacco Players 218 New York State 33-103 PA Grand Canyon 172 Port Washington 52 24, 38, 46, potato houses 239 50-2, 102-3 PA Side of the Gap 137 Presque Isle State Park 168-9 newspapers 335 Paramount Theatre 110 Princeton 122-3, 128 Newport News 320-1 parking 332 Princeton University 122-3 Niagara Falls 12, 88-9, Parrish Art Museum 55-6 Prospect Point Observation 92, 93 Patapsco Valley 185-6 Tower 89 Niagara-on-the-Lake 92 Paul Smith’s College 82 public holidays 337 Norfolk 321-2, 324 Paw Paw 196 Puckett Cabin 290 North Fork 52-3 Peaks of Otter 299-301, 305 Purple Fiddle 268 North St Mary’s County Peaks of Otter Winery 302 Farmers Market 220 Pendleton Point Overlook 268 Northern Neck 318-19 Penn Brad Oil Museum 170 R Pennsylvania 105-77 radio 333, 335 O Pennsylvania Dutch Country Railroad Museum of 13, 147-57 Pennsylvania 151 Ocean City (Maryland) 13, Pennsylvania Lumber Rainbow Bridge 92 228, 231 Museum 171 Ramble 51 Ocean City (New Jersey) Pennsylvania Macaroni Co 164 116, 119 Rappahannock Cellars 253 Petersburg 281 Ocean Gallery 228 Raquette Lake 84 petrol 22, 332 Ocean Grove 112, 118 Raymondskill Falls 135 Philadelphia 26, 127, 129, Ogdensburg 100 Reading Terminal Market 175 140-1, 145, 174-5 Ohiopyle State Park 162, Redden State Forest & Philadelphia Art Alliance 174 165 Education Center 236 Philipsburg Manor 39-40 Olana 45 Redfield, Edward 126-7 Philpott Lake 290 Old Bay seasoning 204 Rehoboth Beach 13, 230, 231 Phoenicia 61-2, 65 Old Fiddler’s Convention 291 Remington, Frederic 100

348 Rex Theater 291 Seaside Heights 113, 118-19 St Ignatius 218-19 Rhinebeck 45, 47 Seaway Trail Inc 98 St Lawrence Seaway 18, Richardson-Bates House Seneca Creek State Park 95-101 Museum 97 195-6 St Mary’s City 221 Richmond 280-1, 282-3, Seneca Falls 70, 74 St Mary’s County 220, 221 312-13, 326-7 Shawangunk Mountains 61 St Michaels 205-7, 213 Ridge 223 Shawnee 135 Stone Pony 110 Rittenhouse Square 174 Sheldrake Point Winery 70 Stonewall Jackson Shrine River Gallery 134 Shelter Island 53-4, 57 277-9 INDEX road conditions 330 Shenandoah National Park Storm King Art Center 41

road distances 330 260-1 Strasburg 151 R -T road rules 331-2 Shepherdstown 265-6, 271 Strasburg Railroad 151 Roanoke 286-7, 303, 305 Sherwood Forest 311 Sturgis Pretzel House 155 Robert H Treman State Shirley 312 Sunken Forest 54 Park 69 Shriver’s Taffy 116 Sunnyside 38-9 54 Singer Castle 100 Swallow Falls State Park 268 Rockwell Museum of Western skiing 62, 81-2 Sykesville 186-7, 191 Art 73, 100 skydiving 235 Rocky Knob 288-9, 290 Skyland 255 T Ronks 157 Skyline Drive 15, 251-61 Tannersville 63-4, 65 Roosevelt, Franklin D 44-5 Smallwood State Park 216-18 Tarrytown 38-40, 46 Roosevelt Memorial 189 Smart View Recreational Taubman Museum of Art Roosevelt, Theodore 52 Area 288 286-7 Rooster Hill Vineyards 71 Smith Mountain Lake 303 Taughannock Falls State Rosenbach Museum & Smith Opera House 71 Park 70 Library 174 Smithsonian Institution 189 telephone services 22, 337-8 Rose River Loop 258 Smoketown 157 Thousand Islands Arts Route 6 167-73 Snow Hill 234, 240 Center 99 Roxbury 62-3 South Fork 56 Thousand Islands Museum Roycroft Campus 92 Solomons Island 222, 223 99 Southampton 55-6, 57 Ticonderoga 79 S Southampton Historical Tilghman Island 205-7 Sackets Harbor 98, 101 Museum 55 tipping 23, 337 safe travel 332-3 Spring Lake 112, 118 Titusville 170 Sag Harbor 57 Springsteen, Bruce 110 tobacco barns 218 52 Staatsburg State Historic toll roads 330-1 Salisbury 208 Site 45 Tom Ridge Environmental Salmon River 98 Stamoolis Brothers 164 Center 169 Sandbridge Beach 323 stargazing 171 tourist information 338 Sands Point Preserve 52 Staunton 297, 304 train travel 151, 334 Sandy Pond 98 Steel Pier 144 transport 23, 334, see also driving Saranac Lake 85 SteelStacks 126 Trap Pond State Park 235-6 Savage Neck Dunes Natural Stever Hill Vineyards 71 Area Preserve 323 St George’s Island 220-1 Tredegar Museum 281

349 Treman Falls 69 Vitrix Hot Glass Studio 73 Whiteoak Canyon Area 255-7 Trimpers Rides 228 VMI Museum 298 White’s Ferry 196 tubing 62 Whitesbog 144 Tupper Lake 83-4 W whitewater rafting 269 TV 335 walking tours Wholey 164 Baltimore 244-5 wi-fi 22, 336 U New York City 102-3 Wild Center 83-4 Union Grove Distillery 62 Philadelphia 174-5 wildlife 82, 230

INDEX United States Botanic Pittsburgh 176-7 Wildwoods 13, 116-17, 119 Garden 242 Washington, DC 242-3 Williamsburg 310-11, 315

T-Z Upper Hawksbill Trail 258 Walters Art Museum 244 Willow Street 149-51 USS Constellation 203 Ward Museum of Wildfowl Wilmington 239, 241 Art 208 Windmill Farm & Craft V Warm Springs 269 Market 71 wine regions 12 vacations 337 Washington & Lee University 298 Winterthur 238 Val-Kill 44 Washington Crossing State Wölffer Estates 56 Valley Forge 141-2 Park 123 Women’s Rights National Vanderbilt Mansion 44-5 Washington, DC 27, 189, Historical Park 70 Vermont 80 242-3, 276 Wonder Bar 110 Vidler’s 92 Washington, George 313 Woodrow Wilson Presidential Vietnam Veterans Washington Monument 244 Library 297 Memorial 189 Watch Hill 54 Woodstock 64, 65 Virginia 247-327 Water Street Market 61 Woodstock Artists Associa- Virginia Aquarium & Marine weather 22 tion & Museum 64 Science Center 323 websites 23, 331 Worthington State Forest Virginia Beach 322-3, 324 135 weights 335 Virginia Eastern Shore 323, Wright, Frank Lloyd 91, 161, Weinberg Center for the 325 162-3, 164 Arts 189 Virginia Living Museum 321 Wye Island 204-5 Wellesley Island State Park Virginia Military Institute 298 99-100, 101 Virginia Museum of Fine Wellsboro 173 Y Arts 313 West Point 41 Yorktown 308-9 Virginia State Capitol 313, 326 Wharton State Forest 142- Yorktown Battlefield 309 3, 145 Virginia Tech 302 White Pine Camp 82 Virginia War Memorial 326 Z White Rock Vineyards 302 visa waiver program 341 Zwaanendael Museum 230 Whitehaven 209-10, 213 visas 339-41 Whitehaven Ferry 209

350 ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd

RAY BARTLETT MICHAEL GROSBERG

Ray is a travel writer specializing in Japan, Korea, Michael has worked on over 45 Lonely Planet Mexico and the United States. He has worked on guidebooks. Whether covering Myanmar or New numerous Lonely Planet titles, starting with Japan in Jersey, each project has added to his rich and 2004, through to his current work on New York & the complicated psyche and taken years from his Mid-Atlantic. (still?) relatively young life. Prior to his freelance writing career, other international work included development on the island of Rota in the western Read more about Ray at https://auth.lonelyplanet. Pacific; South Africa, where he investigated and com/profiles/raybartlett wrote about political violence and helped train newly elected government representatives; and Quito, Ecuador, as a teacher. He received a Masters in Comparative Literature and taught literature and writing as an adjunct professor at several New York City area colleges.

Read more about Michael at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/michaelgrosberg

BRIAN KLUEPFEL

Brian has worked for LP across the Americas since 2006. He’s been the editor of the Bolivian Times in La Paz, a correspondent for Major League Soccer, and KARLA ZIMMERMAN a contributor to Frontier Airlines inflight magazine. His LP adventures have taken him to Venezuela, Karla lives in Chicago where she eat doughnuts, yells Bolivia and even the pine barrens of New Jersey. His at the Cubs and writes stuff for books, magazines, stories on Sleepy Hollow Cemetery and the mines and websites when she’s not doing the first two of Potosi, Bolivia, feature in Lonely Planet’s Secret things. She has contributed to 40-plus guidebooks Marvels of the World. Brian graduated from the and travel anthologies covering destinations University of San Francisco’s MFA program and his in Europe, Asia, Africa, North America and the thesis project turned into a children’s book, Anatoly Caribbean – all of which are a long way from the early of the Gomdars, featured in more than 50 accelerated days, when she wrote about gravel for a construction reading programs across the USA. He’s covered the magazine and got to trek to places like Fredonia, World Cup and Copa America soccer tournaments Kansas. To learn more, follow her on Instagram and and worked as an accordion salesman and bar-room Twitter (@karlazimmerman). troubadour. He lives in New York, walking distance from the infamous Sing-Sing Prison. Read more about Karla at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/karlazimmerman Read more about Brian at https://auth. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/brian.kluepfel

Contributing Writer: Gregor Clark OUR STORY A beat-up old car, a few dollars in the pocket and a sense of adventure. In 1972 that’s all Tony and Maureen OUR Wheeler needed for the trip of a lifetime – across WRITERS Europe and Asia overland to Australia. It took several months, and at the end – broke but inspired – they sat at their kitchen table writing and stapling together their first travel guide, Across Asia on the Cheap. Within a week they’d sold 1500 copies. Lonely Planet was born. Today, Lonely Planet has offices in Franklin, London, Melbourne, Oakland, Dublin, Beijing, and Delhi, with more than 600 staff and writers. We share Tony’s belief that ‘a great guidebook should do three things: inform, educate and amuse’.

SIMON RICHMOND AMY C BALFOUR

Journalist and photographer Simon Richmond has Amy grew up in Richmond, Virginia, and now lives specialized as a travel writer since the early 1990s in the Shenandoah Valley in the foothills of the and first worked for Lonely Planet in 1999 on the Blue Ridge Mountains. A few of her favorite places Central Asia guide. He’s long since stopped counting between the Atlantic and the Appalachians include the number of guidebooks he’s researched and Sharp Top Mountain, Lexington, VA, Berlin, MD, written for the company, but countries covered and the New River Gorge. New top escapes? Scott’s include Australia, China, India, Iran, Japan, Korea, Addition in Richmond, VA, downtown Staunton, VA, Malaysia, Mongolia, Myanmar (Burma), Russia, Chincoteague Island and Frederick, MD. Amy has Singapore, South Africa and Turkey. For Lonely authored or co-authored more than 30 books for Planet’s website he’s penned features on topics from Lonely Planet, including USA, Eastern USA and Florida the world’s best swimming pools to the joys of Urban & the South’s Best Trips. Her stories have appeared Sketching. Follow him on Instagram to see some of his in Backpacker, Sierra, Southern Living and Women’s photos and sketches. Health.

Read more about Simon at https://auth. Read more about Amy at https://auth.lonelyplanet. lonelyplanet.com/profiles/simonrichmond com/profiles/amycbalfour

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