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Home , Annapurna, Annapurna South, Chomo Lonzo, Cho Oyu, Dhaulagiri, Karl Wien

Published by : Tourism Board Himalayan Peaks of Bhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal P. O. Box: 11018 Fax: 977-1-4256910 Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229 NEPAL E-mail: [email protected] (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m)

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Himalayan Peaks of NEPAL (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m) The information contained in this book has been outsourced from an expert writer while every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and reliability. However, in case of lapses and discrepancies, revisions and updates would be subsequently carried out in the forth- coming issues.

2011 Edition © NTB

All Images User Rights, Jagadish Tiwari Images By : Page - 7 - Harka Tamang : Page - 9, 13- Dilip Ali : Page - 17 - Raju Bhandari & : Rest of Images by Jagadish Tiwari Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 3 21 3 Cholatse , Everest region region Cholatse peak, Everest 7

19 15 13 5 9 17 11 Mt. Mt.Everest Mt. Mt. Mt. Cho Mt. Mt. Mt. Mt.Kanchenjunga CONTENTS Over 8000m High Mountains Over Introduction/ The Introduction/ Eight-thousanders Royalty for Expeditions Mountaineering for Royalty Some important Rules and Regulations Mountaineering Himalayan Peaks of Nepal Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

4 Pangboche village with Kwangde peak Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 55 - with annapurna range

n1950, a French expedition summitted the first over first mountain over expedition summitted the a French n1950, at and although countless I, Annapurna It was 8000m in height. in Asia. Of the fourteen, Nepal has a big share of eight. They are are They of eight. Nepal has a big share Of the fourteen, Asia. in Lhotse (8516m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), (8,848m), Everest Mt. Manaslu (8167m), Dhaulagiri Cho Oyu (8201m), Makalu (8,463m), part are These lofty peaks I (8,091m). Annapurna and (8,163m), alaya= Him= snow, of the Snows, Abode (The of the Himalaya place.) a natural boundary Nepal dwelling and form wall between and Nepal in the / in the north between and and (6,959m) of Aconcagua Asia is the peak outside highest The east. in America and the highest mountain South in Peru, the I in the the highest mountain Everest, on Mt. tempts had been made mountains These then. no expedition had succeeded until world, and all fourteen as the eight-thousanders of them lie known are

(8,000 meters and above) meters and (8,000 HIMALAYAN PEAKS OF NEPAL PEAKS HIMALAYAN Europe, Mt. Elbrus is significantly smaller, then astounded the world by climbing all rising no higher than 5,643m. eight-thousanders. Inspired by the great man, others followed in his footsteps and It is believed the Himalaya was formed there are mountaineers still in the quest around 50 million years ago and that, of achieving this great feat. in geological time is considered recent, which is why this gigantic chain of The zone above 8000m is called the mountains is called the youngest in the Death Zone as many have perished in world. These mountains are still rising. It the thin cold air that taxes the body to is also known that the region occupied its limits. Doubts were raised before the by the Himalayan range today, was once conquest of Everest whether man could a shallow Tethys sea. Countless fossils of survive at such dizzying heights. But the mollusks are found even today proving British had been attempting to climb the point. Gigantic forces moved the the world’s highest peak from the early Indo-Australian Plate against the Eur- 1920s via Tibet. Many perished in the asian continental Plate causing the land attempt. Nepal had firmly shut its doors to fold upwards creating a massive chain to outsiders, hence all expeditions took of mountains over millions of years. The the longer and more demanding route Himalaya stretches 2,400 km across east via Tibet, but none were successful. How- to west. ever, in the early 1950s, Nepal opened its doors to the outside world and there Four of the other eight-thousanders was a mad rush to climb from the south. are in while one lies in China. A few expeditions were permitted each Eight-thousanders are the ultimate chal- year and it was only in May 1953 that lenge for any mountaineer. They have and fascinated the avid climber who is always reached the top of Everest becoming the on the lookout for fresh challenges. A first humans to do so. The French who towering figure among all the climbers conquered the first eight-thousander is the Tyrolean champion mountaineer, seemed to have set the ball rolling for . He took mountain the rest of the world to try and be the climbing to new heights when along first to climb a virgin eight-thousander. with Peter Habelar he climbed Everest The mountaineers were surprisingly without the aid of bottled oxygen. This successful during the 1950s and this feat had previously been deemed too decade subsequently became know as dangerous. While Habelar disappeared the Golden Decade of Climbing. All but from the limelight, Messner went on to two of the fourteen eight-thousanders accomplish a solo climb of Everest and were climbed during the 1950s. Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

6 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 77

- E ” 31 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 55 Longitude: N, ” 17 ’ ver since the highest peak in the world was identified by an identified by was world since the highest peak in the ver the moun of India in 1852, of the Geological Survey employee tain has fascinated and drawn climbers from around the world. world. the around from climbers drawn and fascinated has tain when the historic discovery was made, XV as Peak simply Known by ‘Everest’ the then it Surveyor General, was named eventually George Everest. in honour of his predecessor, Waugh Andrew mountain) the to close lived (who Sherpas and Tibetans The later the Nepalese Government it as Chhomolungma and knew famous the like climbers early The ‘Sagarmatha’. name the it gave Irvine attempted to climb Andrew and duo, northernthe on lies which side Tibetan Everest. of side the from E Mt.Everest (8,848m, Sagarmatha Sagarmatha (8,848m, Mt.Everest mountain The highest in Nepali): world in the Latitude: 27° 59 Latitude: The first British Everest Reconnaissance around the world. It was a great mo- Expedition to the mountain was led by ment in history not only for the two Lt. Colonel Charles Howard-Bury and climbers but for mankind in general. George Mallory was part of the team. Before the epic climb there had been The northern and eastern reaches of much speculation as doubts were the mountain were explored and on raised if man could survive at such 24th September 1921, along great altitudes. The previous year, Tenz- with Mallory became the first climbers ing had almost reached the top with to reach a height of 7000m on Everest. Swiss climber , but it They had climbed to the of was the British expedition led by John the mountain establishing the northern Hunt that got the eventual honours. route. Nepal being completely cut off Way back in 1924, Mallory and Irvine from the rest of the world (except for a had disappeared after they were last few invited guests), no attempts could be seen 240m below the summit. Although made from the south. In Tibet, the Dalai Mallory’s well preserved body was Lama of the time had given permission to found high up on the mountain in 1999, the foreigners to climb even though he nobody is really sure if the duo made it wondered why they wanted to do such a to the summit or died on the way up. senseless thing. To Asians it made no sense at all; risking one’s life to reach the top of Since 1953, many records have been a mountain that is covered in snow under broken and many sherpas have climbed bitterly cold conditions. more than ten times each. The record holder Apa Sherpa has climbed the peak Mt. Everest lies in the region an astounding eighteen times. Many of Nepal on the northern border today climb to set a new record such as with Tibet and also falls within the the speed record. Others have climbed . After many to become the youngest or the oldest. attempts had been made on the moun- A blind man made it to the top and so tain, it was Tenzing Norgay and Edmund did an amputee. With modern gear and Hillary who finally proved to the world sherpas to guide them, climbing has be- that it could be climbed. At 9:30am on come so much simpler than in the early a sunny morning of 29th May 1953, the days when nobody knew which way to go New Zealander and the Sherpa Sirdar or even if it was possible to summit. The stood triumphantly atop the highest most common way up to the summit is mountain in the world. While Tenzing the southeast ridge route. stood on the summit with a collection of flags, Hillary took his picture, which graced the front pages of newspapers Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

8 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 99

E ” 25 ’ N, Longitude: 88° 09 Longitude: N, ” 09 here was a time when Mt. Kanchenjunga was considered the considered was Kanchenjunga Mt. when time a was here the startling before This was world. highest mountain in the ’ discovery made by the Chief Computer (today they are replaced replaced are they Computer (today the Chief discovery made by XV was in fact higher out that Peak machines) who pointed by that Peak it became apparent Later Kanchenjunga. IX, than Peak highest mountain after Everest the third only IX was actually The lies 128 km east of Everest. It Pakistan). and (, state the in lies side other the while Nepal in lies face western Kanchenjunga or Kangchenzonga in Sikkimese India. of Sikkim, has mountain the as Snows” Great the of treasures “Five means (8,586m), Kanchenjunga main are They peaks. prominent five and the (8,420m), West Kanchenjunga Kang (8,505m), Yalung Himalayan most of the other Unlike (both 8,476m). Peaks Twin mountain lies north this to south and the Kanchenjunga peaks, T The third highest mountain highest The third world in the Kanchenjunga (8,586m): Kanchenjunga Latitude: 27° 42 Latitude: glacier drains into the Tamur River which The next attempt was made by Gilmour is a tributary of the Koshi. Lewis and George Frey in 1951 looking for an easier route to the top. He failed and Climbing Kanchenjunga had been contem- returned two years later with John Kempe plated by many as far back as in 1882, yet no but met with no success. He returned once attempt was made until 1905. The first to go again in 1954 with a new team of climbers up the Yalung glacier was Alaister Crowley but luck was not on his side. but he lost four men on the mountain; a Lieutenant Pache and three porters. For Fifty years after the first attempt, in fifteen years, no one dared another attempt. 1955, a British expedition took off, led by In 1929, an American climber named Francis Charles Evans, who had been a member Farmer left behind his porters and climbed of the successful expedition on Everest up the south face but was never seen again. two years earlier. Two Britons, George Then Paul Bauer led a Bavarian expedition Band and finally made it to the up the mountain later in the same year and summit of this difficult mountain. Given reached the altitude of 7,700m. Following an the fact that the Sikkimese considered unsuccessful attempt by Gunther Dyhren- the mountain very sacred, the summiteers furth in 1930, Bauer made a second attempt refrained from stepping right up to the in 1931. Hans Hartman and Dr. top. They stopped five vertical feet below reached 7,990m before they were forced the summit on 25th May. Finally, Kanchen- to turn back. junga, the third highest mountain in the world had been conquered. The first With the outbreak of the Second World- Nepali to climb this peak was Ang Phurba War, there was no climbing in the . Sherpa on 14th May 1980. Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

10 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 1111 E ” 03 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 56 Longitude: N, ” t. Lhotse is connected to Everest via the and is to Everest Lhotse is connected t. The main summit the fourth mountain in the world. highest 45 ’ Shar is 8,383 metres. Very often, climbers making an attempt on often, Very Shar is 8,383 metres. the usual route In fact, the Lhotse to acclimatize. up go Everest, starts face of Lhotse and then up the northwest leading to Everest famous mountain. the more to cuts across International 1955 the by made was Lhotse on attempt early An and led by It was Expedition. Himalayan Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn Austrians, also included two Arthur Spöhel. Bruno Spirig and Swiss climbers, as two as well to include area It was also the first expedition in the Everest McGowan. and Richard George Bell, Beckey, Americans:Fred M and Lhotse (East) is 8,414 metres Middle is 8,516 m while Lhotse highest mountain in the mountain highest world Lhotse (8,516m): the fourth (8,516m): Lhotse Latitude: 27° 57 Latitude: Mt. Amadablam-way to Everest Base Camp

They climbed up the West Cwm and Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount the northwest face of Lhotse reaching Everest/Lhotse Expedition reached the an altitude of 8,100 metres. They were summit becoming the first climbers to do beaten back by unexpectedly strong so. was summitted on 12th wind and cold temperatures. May by Zepp Maier and Rolf Walter of . It was some time before Lhotse Working under cartographer Schneider’s Middle was climbed, and for many years direction, they completed the first map of remained the highest unclimbed, named the Everest area. They also made several point on Earth. It was only on 23rd May short films on local cultural topics. Be- 2001, that members of a Russian expedi- sides trying to summit Lhotse, the expedi- tion made it to the top of this peak. The tion also made a number of first ascents victorious team members were Eugeny of smaller peaks in the Khumbu region. Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bo- lotov and Petr Kuznetsov. The first winter On this mountain, it was the Swiss who ascent on Lhotse was made by a Polish were victorious. Victorious-- because climber named on 31st in the 1950s, there was much competi- December 1988 and the first Nepali to tion between nations to summit a virgin climb it was Urkien Tshering Sherpa on peak before the others. On 18th May 8th May 1977. 1956, a Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

12 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 1313 E ” 20 ’ N, Longitude: 87° 05 Longitude: N, ” t.Makalu is 20 km east of Everest in the Khumbu region and region in the Khumbu of Everest t.Makalu is 20 km east The mountain lies in the world. is the fifth highest moutain 23 ’ in the Makalu Barun National Park and is known for its perfect perfect its for Park and is known Barun National in the Makalu North of the mountain lies ridges. sharp with four shape pyramid or Kangchungtse, notable subsidiaryTibet and it has two peaks. The 7,678 m lies north-northwest of the main summit. Makalu II, other is which lies just north of the main peak. team American an The first attempt on Makalu was made by attempted the They William Siri in the spring of 1954. led by constant a by m 7,100 at back turned were but ridge southeast reconnaissance a French In the fall of 1954, of storms. barrage subsidiaryexpedition made the first ascent of the summit M highest mountain in the mountain highest world Makalu (8,463m): The fifth (8,463m): Makalu Latitude: 27° 53 Latitude: Kangchungtse on 22nd October. They route was climbed in May 1971 by French- were Jean Franco, Gyaltsen Norbu and men B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur. Makalu is Pa Norbu. one of the harder eight-thousanders and is considered one of the most difficult Makalu was first climbed on 15th May mountains in the world to climb. The 1955 by and , mountain has challenging steep pitches members of a French Expedition led by and knife while the final ascent of the Jean Franco. The very next day, Franco, summit pyramid involves technical rock G. Magnone and Gyaltsen Norbu also climbing. In 2006, a French mountaineer summitted followed by Bouvier, S. Coupe, named Jean-Christophe Lafailee disap- Leroux and A. Vialatte on the 17th. The peared on Makalu while trying to make expedition climbed from the the first winter ascent. This mountain is and northeast ridge via the saddle be- the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which tween Makalu and Kangchungtse which has yet to be climbed in true winter con- subsequently became the standard route. ditions. The first Nepali to climb Makalu was Ang Chepal Sherpa on 1st May 1978. The first ascent of the southeast ridge Note: Most of the sherpas who climbed was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka from with the expeditions in the 1950s were a Japanese expedition on 23rd May 1970. considered Indian nationals as they had An American team had tried before them been living in India. and failed. The very technical West Pillar

Yak Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

14 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 1515 - E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 39 Longitude: N, ” nlike other attempts, the successful expedition to Cho Oyu the successful expedition other attempts, nlike Austrian climber, had its origins in very simple circumstances. 37 ’ around a campfire on a mountain and enjoying fried liver, when when fried liver, mountain and enjoying on a a campfire around Tichy could Cho only Oyu?” “Next year, Pasang suddenly asked, Thus it was decided that the moun “Cho Oyu”. nod and repeat, Everest, years, previous In the be attempted in 1954. tain would among the other eight-thousanders. Annapurna and had been climbed. China between the border at Everest, of km west 20 Cho Oyu lies and Nepal. In Tibetan, Cho Oyu means Goddess”. “Turquoise an expedition by The first attempt on this mountain was made Britain Great of Committee Himalayan supportedJoint the by U gathered were Pasang and Adjiba sherpas with along Tichy Herbert highest mountain in the mountain highest world Cho Oyu (8201m): The sixth The sixth (8201m): Cho Oyu Latitude: 28° 05 Latitude: as preparation for an attempt on Mount the mountain would begin. Tenzing and Everest the following year. With Eric Hillary had also begun their trek to Ever- Shipton as team leader, the expediton est from this old city. As every expedition also included Edmund Hillary, George has its peculiarities, this one was no Lowe, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdilon, exception. There were only three foreign but technical difficulties at an ice cliff climbers and eleven sherpas on the team. above 6,650m forced them to give up . It was estimated that it would Cho Oyu was finally climbed on 19th take two weeks to get everyone across October 1954 via the northwest ridge and it would also mean entering Tibetan by Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Pasang Dawa territory which it is believed Shipton was Lama. Where as Shipton and team had unwilling to do. been stopped by an ice cliff high on the mountain, the Austrians were able to It was Dyhrenfurth and Shipton who first tackle the problem in an hour and head came up with measurements that put up towards the summit. Pasang’s casual Cho Oyu sixth on the list of the highest remark had led to a successful expedi- mountains in the world. tion. This was the fifth eight-thousander to have been climbed. Cho Oyu is con- The Austrian expedition led by Herbert sidered the easiest to climb among the Tichy arrived in Birgunj in 1954 via India eight-thousanders and is also one of the and flew into Kathmandu by means of most popular. The first Nepali national to an Indian airliner of the time. Once they climb the peak was Ang Phuri Sherpa on were packed and ready, they moved to 29th April 1987. Bhaktapur from where the long trek to

Upper Pangboche village Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

16 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 1717 E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 83° 29 Longitude: N, ” he Dhaulagiri lies northwest of and climbing and climbing northwest of Pokhara he Dhaulagiri massif lies It looked impossible. first considered this mountain was at 46 ’ formidable and the French expedition that came to Nepal in 1950 in Nepal to came that expedition French the and formidable a peak this give even didn’t I, Annapurna climbed successfully and came in 1809 was the who Webb William Captain second thought. When he calibrated Dhaulagiri. on Mt. to set eyes first European the then, until Up amazed. was he mountain, the of height the of chain highest the considered were America South in Andes discovery left the of this new The news mountains in the world. the revelation, since years many For incredulous. of the world rest in the world. Dhaulagiri was thought to be the highest mountain T seventh highest mountain in in highest mountain seventh the world Dhaulagiri (8,167m): The (8,167m): Dhaulagiri Latitude: 28° 41 Latitude: High altitude Trekkers

“The White Mountain” as it was known expedition met with countless problems to foreigners, was one of the peaks that and was compounded by the crash of the could not be conquered during the Gold- . The pilot and repairman luckily es- en Decade. Although numerous attempts caped unhurt and walked all the way back were made throughout the 1950s, none to Pokhara from the mountain. But the were successful. A string of expeditions expedition persevered and 13th May 1960 arrived in Nepal: the Argentineans tried proved to be a lucky day for the moun- their luck in 1954. A Swiss-German team taineers as it was a bright sunny day with gave it a shot in 1955, and were followed practically no wind blowing. Six members by the Argentineans making a bid in 1956 of the expedition reached the summit to once again, but with no better luck. In become the first to climb Dhaulagiri. They 1958, the Swiss were back and returned were Kurt Diemberger, Nawang Dorjee yet again without reaching the summit. Sherpa, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Peter Then it was the turn of the Austrians who Diener and Nima Dorjee Sherpa. Ten days could go no further than 7,802m. later, Jugo Weber and Michel Vaucher fol- lowed in their footsteps and made it to In 1960, another Swiss expedition arrived the top. Nawang Dorjee became the first in Nepal led by Max Eiselin and the team Nepali to climb the peak. included Kurt Diemberger and Norman Dyhrenfurth who went on to earn a The numbers were amazing on this name for themselves. They brought along climb, 13 members set off to climb the a Pilatus Porter named ‘Yeti’ which was mountain, summitted on the 13th and it piloted by Ernst Saxer for making drops happened to be the 13 eight-thousander on the French Pass up in the mountain. The to be climbed. No bad luck there. Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

18 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 1919 - E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 84° 33 Longitude: N, ” t. Manaslu lies on the border between Gorkha and between Manaslu lies on the border t. Annapurna. northernin districts of east km 64 and Nepal 58 ’ The Manaslu region encompasses the sub-tropical foothills of of foothills the sub-tropical encompasses The Manaslu region border high pastures Trans-Himalayan to the arid the Himalaya Manasa and the word from Manaslu is derived Tibet. ing Spirit”. “Mountain of the translates as by conquered were twelve Out of the fourteen eight-thousanders, by accounted for were two while only the west expeditions from Pangma (eight-thousander) which lies in China was Shisha Asians. summitted first was Manaslu while Chinese the by climbed first expedition. a Japanese by M eighth highest mountain in highest mountain eighth the world Manaslu (8,163m) The (8,163m) Manaslu Latitude: 28° 32 Latitude: The famous Manaslu trekking route goes comprised Katsuro Ohara, Toshio Imani- around the Manaslu massif over the pass shi, Dr. Hirokichi Tatsunama, Sonosuke down to Annapurna. The trekking trail Chitani, Kichiro Kato, Junijiro Muraki, follows the classic salt-trade route along Kiroyoshi Otsuka, Dr. Atsushi Tokunaga, the Budhi . Yuichi Matsuda, Minoru Higeta and Takayoshi Yoda accompanied by Gyasten The first Japanese Manaslu Recon- Norbu as sherpa sardar. naissance Expedition ventured up the mountain in 1952 when the mountain This expedition had unique equipments, was still a virgin peak. Following this, the one of which was an oxygen generator first climbing expedition in 1953, went up which was set up in a separate tent the river Budi Gandaki’s course to reach from the climbers. From there oxygen the mountain. They were able to climb was pumped to all the other climbers in up to 7,750 m before turning back. The their respective tents. But this required expedition that came after them in 1954 the dedication of the expedition doc- was not so fortunate. Inhabitants of Samu tor, who had to remain awake all night village which lay on their route denied changing oxygen candles every one and them access to the mountain believing a half hours. they would bring them misfortune. The mountain they said was sacred to them. On 9th May 1956, Imanishi and Gyaltsen As a result, the climbers were forced to reached the summit of Manaslu becom- turn to instead. ing the first to do so. They could see Ganesh Himal, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri After the Nepalese Government man- and Machhapuchhare poking through the aged to pacify the villagers of Samu clouds. Following them, Kato and Higeta village, an advance party for the next also climbed to the top two days later. expedition was able to make their way The Japanese team was the first Asian up towards the mountain. The third Japa- expedition to make a first ascent of an nese Manaslu Expedition led by veteran eight-thousander. The first Nepali national climber, sixty-two year old Yuko Maki to climb the peak was Urkien Tshering arrived in Kathmandu in 1956. The team Sherpa on 22nd April 1973.

Tyangboche Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

20 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 2121 E ” 50 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 51 Longitude: N, ” he Annapurna range is a series of peaks stretching 55 km with stretching range is a series of peaks Annapurna he highest tenth the being I, Annapurna Mt. point, highest the 42 ' Himalaya by the Kali Gandaki River, which separates it from the which separates it from the Kali Gandaki River, by Himalaya of I is 34 km west Dhaulagiri the Dhaulagiri. other large massif, grains” of “full means literally Annapurna Sanskrit In I. Annapurna Hindu The Harvests”. of “Goddess mean to taken normally is but massif The entire Annapurna. of fertility as Goddess is also known (ACAP).Mt Project Area ConservationAnnapurna lies within the which mountains of this chain of peak the main I is Annapurna Annapurna are They name. its share that peaks other three includes South (7,219m). Annapurna III (7,555m) and Annapurna II (7.937m), most of it stands out, I barely Annapurna the other giants, Unlike of it. other peaks in front by hidden T the cut through gorge It lies east of a great summit in the world. tenth highest mountain in highest mountain tenth the world Annapurna I (8091m): The I (8091m): Annapurna Latitude: 27° 51 Latitude: The conquest of Annapurna I was remark- via Tibet. Even before the team arrived able in many ways. For a start, the French in Nepal, they had given themselves two climbers spent weeks just trying to locate options: Climb Dhaulagiri or Annapurna. the mountain as it was still unexplored. Finding the former too difficult to climb, It was the first eight-thousander to be they turned their attention to the latter. climbed and even more remarkable was the fact that they did it on their first at- As we have seen over the years of climb- tempt. This was highly unusual as on most ing history, the best time to climb in the mountains of this size, many exploratory Himalaya is May. However, by the time teams went up to study the possible Herzog and his team were heading up to routes up to the summit. Only after the summit it was the beginning of June. several expeditions had tried and failed Having received news that the monsoon would one eventually succeed. was to begin from 5th June, they were racing against time and made the summit When Annapurna I was climbed, Nepal just two days before the weather changed was still under Rana rule and the country for the worse. Herzog and was strictly closed to outsiders. The climb reached the top on 3rd June via the north made , the expedition face. The two summiteers paid a heavy leader very famous, this being the first price for the climb, losing their toes and eight-thousander to be climbed. No expe- some fingers to frostbite. Herzog would ditions had taken to the mountains from not climb any major peak following this Nepal before this team and so sherpas historic climb. The first Nepali climber had to be hired from from to summit this peak was Sonam Wolang where many expeditions were launched Sherpa on 13th October 1977. Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

22 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 2323 15,000/- 16,500/- 17,500/- 2,500/- Winter and Summer Winter and Summer season 6,250/- 10,000/- 12,000/- 14,000/- Autumn season 12,500/- 20,000/- 24,000/- 28,000/- 30,000/- 33,000/- 35,000/- 5,000/- Spring season 25,000/- 40,000/- 48,000/- 56,000/- 60,000/- 66,000/- 70,000/- 10,000/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty - - Name of Peak: Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) 8,848m. (Sagarmatha) Everest Mt. Name of Peak: (South East Ridge) route Normal Route: mum of 15 mem mum bers) member (An (An member expedition team maxi have may Six member member Seven additional Per Three member Three member Four member Five One member member Two Member of the the of Member mountaineering expedition (Relating to sub rule 1of Rule 4) (a) Royalty for Mountaineering Expeditions Notice -1: Schedule-4 An expedition team has to deposit garbage deposit fee before obtaining permit. The amountThe permit. obtaining before fee deposit garbage deposit to has team expedition An which is refundable US$ 500 to US$ 4000, to mountains ranging from varies according the garbage accumulated. of the clearance evidence shows after the expedition team A mountaineering expedition team which has obtained a permit for mountaineering mountaineering for team which has obtained a permit A mountaineering expedition of Nepal. the Government by Officer appointed to include a Liaison shall have Once a permit has been obtained, the expedition has to strictly follow the route the route follow the expedition has to strictly obtained, Once a permit has been of Nepal. the Government issued by in the permit as prescribed and the regulation All mountaineering expeditions intending to climb an eight-thousander or any other any or an eight-thousander climb to intending expeditions mountaineering All Aviation. & Civil Tourism the Ministry from to obtain permission of mountain have Some important Mountaineering Rules and Mountaineering Some important Regulations (b) Name of Peak: Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) 8848m Route: Except normal route Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 15,000/- 7,500/- 3,750/- Two member 21,000/- 10,500/- 5,250/- Three member 27,000/- 13,500/- 6,750/- Four member 33,000/- 17,500/- 8,750/- Five member 39,000/- 19,500/- 9,750/- Six member 45,000/- 22,500/- 11,250/- Seven member 50,000/- 25,000/- 12,500/- Per additional 10,000/- 5,000/- 2,500/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of 15 members)

(c) Name of Peak: Other mountains having more than 8,000m (Except Mt. Everest)

Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer sea- son One member 5,000/- 2,500/- 1,250/- Two member 6,000/- 3,000/- 1,500/- Three member 7,000/- 3,500/- 1,750/- Four member 8,000/- 4,000/ 2,000/- Five member 8,500/- 4,250/- 2,125/- Six member 9,000/- 4,500/- 2,250/- Seven member 10,000/- 5,000/- 2,500/- Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

24 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 2525 - Winter and Winter and Summer season 500/- 600/- 700/- 800/- 900/- 950/- 1,000/- 200/- 500/- Winter and and Winter sea Summer son 1,800/- 1,900/- 2,000/- 400/- Autumn season 1,000/- 1,200/- 1,400/- 1,600/- Autumn season 1,000/- 3,600/- 3,800/- 4,000/- 500/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty Spring season 2,000/- 2,400/- 2,800/- 3,200/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) royalty Mountaineering Spring season 1,500/- - - Name of Peak: Mountains having 7501-7999m height. having Mountains Name of Peak: 15 members) member (An ex pedition team may of maximum have Six member member Seven additional Per Four member Four member Five One member member Two member Three Member of the Member of the mountaineering expedition pedition team may pedition team may of maximum have 15 members) Per additional additional Per member (An ex Member of the of the Member mountaineering expedition (d) (e) Name of Peak: Mountains having 7000-7500m height Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 1,500/- 750/- 375/- Two member 1,800/- 900/- 450/- Three member 2,100/- 1,050/- 525/- Four member 2,400/- 1,200/- 600/- Five member 2,600/- 1,300/- 650/- Six member 2,800/- 1,400/- 700/- Seven member 3,000/- 1,500/- 750/- Per additional 400/- 250/- 150/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of 15 members)

(f) Name of Peak: Mountains having 6501-6999m height.( Except Mt. Ama- dablam) Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 1,000/- 500/- 250/- Two member 1,200/- 600/- 300/- Three member 1,400/- 700/- 350/- Four member 1,600/- 800/- 400/- Five member 1,800/- 900/- 450/- Six member 1,900/- 950/- 475/- Seven member 2,000/- 1,000/- 500/- Per additional 300/- 200/- 100/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of 15 members) Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

26 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 2727 225/- 250/- 50/- Winter and Winter and Summer season 100/- 125/- 150/- 175/- 200/- 500/- 600/- 700/- 800/- 900/- 950/- 1,000/- 200/- Winter and Summer Summer Winter and season 200/- 250/- 300/- 350/- 400/- 450/- 500/- 100/- Autumn season 1,900/- 2,000/- 300/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) royalty Mountaineering Spring and Autumn season 1,000/- 1,200/- 1,400/- 1,600/- 1,800/- - 400/- 500/- 600/- 700/- 800/- 900/- 1,000/- 200/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty Spring season -

Name of Peak: Mountains having less than 6500m height. Mountains having Name of Peak: Name of Peak: Mt. Amadablam(6812m.) Mt. Name of Peak: pedition team may pedition team may of maximum have 15 members) Seven member Seven additional Per member (An ex Four member Four member Five Six member Two member Two member Three mountaineering mountaineering expedition One member Member of the Member of the have maximum of 15 of 15 maximum have members) Seven member Seven member additional Per (An expedition team may Five member Five Six Member Two member Two member Three member Four taineering expedition taineering One member Member of the moun the of Member (h) (g) Note: Above revised royalty will be ef- Notice -3 fective from 2065/04/01 (16th July, 2008). According to the decision (dated Notice -2: 2065/02/22B.S.) made by the Govern- ment of Nepal (Secretary Level) the The mountaineering royalty has been definition of the season is hereby clarified;

totally waived to those mountains situ- n Spring ( March, April, May)

ated on mid western and Far western n Summer ( June, July, August)

development regions of Nepal for coming n Autumn ( September, October, No five years. vember)

n Winter ( December, January, Febru ary) Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

28 Lake in gokyo, Everest