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Alpine Journal • THE ALPINE JOURNAL Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255 THE • A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB VOLUME 49 (NOS. 254 AND 255) 1 937 EDITED BY E. L. STRUTT PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CLUB 74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W. 1 1937 CONTENTS PAGE ALPINE AcciDENTs IN I937 . • • • • • • 282 ALPINE CLUB 'At Home' • • • • • • • • . ISI Dinner . • • • • • • • • . ISI Gifts to . • • • • • • • • . 271 Library . • • • • • • • • 14I, 302 Members Deaths • • 108, 12I, ISO, ISI, 1s2, 210, 248, 27I, 282, 308 n, 309, 3 IO Elected • • • • • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 310 Honorary Deaths . • 248, 2S9, 27I, 309, 3IO Elected . • • . 121, IS2, 27I New Premises . • • . I SO Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIAM) • • . I2I, 27I Officers Elected . • • . IS I Proceedings . • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 3IO ALPINE JOURNAL . • • . 27I ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Carstensz Massif, The, I936. By A. H. Colijn . I77 Chomolhari. By F. S. Chapman . 203 Climbing in the 'Sixties and the 'Seventies. By C. Wilson . I67 Complaints and Confessions of an Old Mountaineer. By P. Montandon . ss Dachstein Range, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . 242 D.u.CE.A.-V., The, in the Caucasus. By R. Schwarzgruber . 79 Elburz Range, N. Persia, The German Expedition in. By D. L. Rusk . 2 4S Elie de Montgolfier's Climb on Mt. Blanc. By Claire- Eliane Engel . 70 Gebel Gharib, The Wrong Way up. By G. W. Murray . 228 German Sikkim Expedition, I936, The. By Paul Bauer . 4I Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim, Ascent of . I03 In the Footsteps of Dr. Paccard. By E. H. Stevens . I Julian Alps, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . I04 Kamet, I937 Attempt by Soldiers. By R. Ridley . • • 239 Verse. By G. Yeld . • • 24I Nanda Devi, The Ascent of. By H. W. Tilman . • • I3 Nanda Devi District, Survey in. By E. E. Shipton • • 27 Nanga Parbat, The Disaster on, 1937 . • • 210 • Vl CONTENTS ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. cont. PAGE New Guinea, Ascent of Carstensz. By A. H. Colijn . 203 Relativity in Mountaineering. By R. L. G. Irving . I 53 Ski-Mountaineering in New Zealand. By C. W. Wyatt . 87 South Mrica, Union of, Mountaineering Conditions in. By D. G. Mills . 235 Struck by Lightning. By N. S. Finzi . 6s Waddington, Mt., The First Ascent of. By Fritz Wiessner . 49 West Greenland, Mountains and Glaciers in. By H. N. Pal/in I90 CoRRESPONDENCE Re The Accident on Nanga Parbat . • • • • 308 Re Himalayan Nomenclature . • • • • • I06 CORRIGENDA AND ADDENDA No. 254 . • • • • • • • 3II Nos. 254 and 255 . • • • • • • • 3I3 DEATHS • • • I08, I2I, ISO, I52, 210, 248, 259, 27I, 282, 308 n., 309, 3 IO EXPEDITIONS • • • • • • • • I I9, 268 IN MEMORIAM Brulle, H. • • • • • • • • • III Collins, G. L. • • • • • • • • 264 Conway of Allington, Lord • • • • • • 248 Cox, Major-General Sir P. Z. • • • • • • 117 Heim, Professor A. • • • • • • • • 259 Leith, R. F. C. • • • • • • • • 115 Moser, E. B. • • • • • • • • • 263 Mothersill, H. J. • • • • • • • • 26I Osborn, I. S. • • • • • • • • • II6 Petherick, W. J. • • • • • • • • 259 Pollock, Sir F. • • • • • • • • I08 Wien, Dr. Karl • • • • • • • • 265 NOTES Alpine • • • • • • • • • I21, 271 REVIEWS AND NOTICES After Everest (Somervell) . I32 Among the Meadows and Alpine Flowers of Northern Italy (Neame) . 300 i-\.scent, The, of Mt. Stalin (Romm) . I35 Ascent, The, of N anda Devi (Tilman) . 292 Attack on Everest (Macintyre) . I3I Au Bout d'un Fil: Douze Ascensions Nouvelles dans les Alpes Suisses et Fran9aises (Blanchet) . 295 Bergvagabunden (Schmidkunz) . 298 Camp Six (Smythe) . 294 Complete Book of Ski-ing, The (Hallberg & Muckenbrunn, trs. B. Lunn). I39 • • CONTENTS Vll REVIEWS AND NOTICES cont. PAGE Encordees· (Morin) • • • • • • • • 133 Mes Escalades dans les Alpes et le Caucase (Mummery) • 130 Mountain Geography (Peattie) • • • • • • 288 Mountain Scene, The (Smythe) • • • • • 296 Over Tyrolese Hills (Smythe) • • • • • • 130 Scrambles amongst the Alps (Whymper) • • • • 136 Ski-ing (Bracken) • • • • • • • • 139 Vom Mt. Blanc zum Wilden Kaiser (Plietz) • • • 138 vVie anders ist das Besteigen der Alpen geworden ! (Lammer) 297 'Villy Merkl : ein W eg zum Nanga Parbat • • • • 299 • INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Aika, Coast Base, Sikorsky Camp in foreground . opp. 184 'Alam Kuh, N. Face, and Takht-i-Suleiman . opp. 245 'Alam Kuh, N. Face, from Takht-i-Suleiman . 245 Badile, Piz, N. Buttress . opp. 6s Balmhorn, E. Face . 274 Barberine ' Lake ' with Les Perrons . opp. I72 Blanc, Mt., behind Mont Blanc du Tacul . between S & 9 From Buet . opp. r6S Carstensz Glacier, E. Side of Carstensz Pyramid . , IS5 Carstensz, M t., and its approaches, Views of . between I S4 & I 88 Caucasus Ailama . between So & SI Dykhtau, E. Peak and Summit . , 8o & S1 Janga, Katuintau, Gestola, Elbruz in background , , So & SI Krumkholbashi, First Peak of . opp. SI Mishirgitau, E. and W. Peaks . between So & S1 Shkara, Summit and W. Peak from N. opp. 8o Chomolhari, various views . opp. 202, 203, 204, 205, 207 Col between Changabang and Rhamani Glaciers . between 32 & 33 Dachstein, S. Face . opp. 243 Dietrichsen Glacier descending . between 200 & 201 Edge of, in Melville Bay at Cape Seddon . , 200 & 201 View up Little Tugela River: Champagne Castle, Monk's Cowl, Cathkin Peak between 234 & 235 Dunagiri from N. and from S. , · 32 & 33 Eiger, the In the Kalliwand . • • opp. 269 N.E. Face and Arc~te . • • . 275 S.E. Face . • • opp. 26S Everest, Mt., N. Face . • • '' !28 Gharib, Gebel, from the S. • • " 232 Gharib, Gebel Range, General view from the E. • • " 232 Gosausee with Dachstein . • • '' 243 Greenland, West Cape Seddon and Melville Bay, Highest Peak of . , 201 Kaersorssuak, M ts. of, looking E. between 200 & 20 I Melville Bay and Inland Ice . , 200 & 201 Nugssuaq Peninsula, Lake District in interior . opp. 201 X INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS Greenland, West cont. PAGE Quilertinguit, looking W. • • • • • opp. 200 Umanak Island . • • • • • " 200 Kamet • Base Camp . • • • • opp. 238 Camp 3 . • • • • " 239 Porters on the way to Camp 2 . • • • • " 238 Snow Gully to Camp 4 . • • • • , 239 Liklo from the N. chain . • • • • , 48 Memorial Tablet to Henri Brulle . • • • • . 280 Nanda Devi From the E. • • • • • . between I6 & I7 S. Face . • • • • • . opp. I7 Nanda Devi Basin • • • • • . , I 6 Peaks on Rim . • • • • • . between I6 & I7 Nanda Ghunti E. Ridge, end of . • • • • • • opp. 33 From Wan Pass . • • • • . , 32 Nanda J{ot . • • • • . between I6 & I7 Nanga Parbat . • • • • . opp. 2I I Nepal Peak, at Dawn . • • • • . between 48 & 49 New Zealand Girdlestone Peak, from Ruapehu . opp. 96 N gauruhoe, Ice forn1ations on Crater of . , 96 Ruapehu, Summit, Ice on . between 96 & 97 Tongariro, S. Crater of . , , 96 & 97 Wilczek Peak . , 96 & 97 W. Arete, descending . opp. 97 Panorama of 'Alam Kuh, Pta. Martha, and Takht-i-Suleiman, showing N. Wall of 'Alam Kuh and Sarchal Glacier opp. 246 Panorama from the Highest Summit of the Nugssuaq looking E. and looking S.W. opp. 296 Phari Plain from Chomolhari, Kangchenjunga, with . , , 206 Pocket Note-book of Brulle . I I3 Pomagagnon, S. Face . 273 Pumori . opp. I29 Simonsberg . , 235 Simvu, Highest Summit with Lower E. Arete of Kangchen- junga . between 48 & 49 Pt. 6545 m. of . ,, 48 & 49 Simvu Massif from Stein Pass . opp. 49 Siniolchum . between 48 & 49 Looking towards Summit . ,, 48 & 49 Summit of . ,, 48 & 49 Spitzbergen: Conway Surveying at Midnight . 257 Spitze Fluh from the N. opp. 64 Tacul, Aig. du (the Peak on the S.) . , 9 Tacul Basin, The . .. , 2 • INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS Xl PAGE Tent Peak, at Dawn • • • • • • between 48 &; 49 Tetnuld, N. Face • • • • • • • opp. 27I Tschingellochtighorn • • • • • • • I72 " Upper Rishi Gorge, The • • • • • between I 6 &; I 7 Ushba Red Wall towards ' Red Corner ' • • • • opp. 277 S. and N. Peaks • • • • • • • 276 " Vazzeda and di Rosso, Cime, North Slopes • • • I69 Waddington, Mt. " From Icefall Pt. • • • • • • • opp. 52 S.W. Face • • • • • • • opp. 53, 54, 55 View towards W .. • • • • • • opp. 54 Waaihochi Peak, Summit, in Winter • • between 234 &; 235 PORTRAITS Brulle, H. • • • • • • • • • opp. I I3 Conway of Allington, Lord • • • • opp. I53 &; opp. 248 Heim, Professor Albert • • • • • • opp. 265 Montgolfier, Elie de . • • • • • • " 7I Moser, E. B. • • • • • • • • 264 " Mothersill, H. J. • • • • • • • , 249 Pollock, Sir F. • • II2 • • • • • • " Wien, Karl • • •• • • • • • 265 " MAPS Carstensz Massif. • • • • • • • opp. 3 I2 South Mrica • • • • • • • • • 237 Tacul Basin • • • • • • • • • 2 CORRIGENDA TO NOS. 254 AND 255 CORRIGENDA TO NOS. 254 AND 255· • Illustration facing p. 54· Title should read ' Mt. Bell on right fore­ ground.' H. S. H. Panorama facing p. 246. Title should read . ' showing N. wall of 'Alam Kuh and Sarchal Glacier.' Portrait facing p. 265. Title should read ' Karl Wien 1906-1937·' P. 281, footnote 7, for 'A.J. 45' read 'A.J. 44·' P. 282, footnote I,jor 'A.J. 44· 189' read' 198.' • VOL. XLIX. NO. CCLV. y INDEX Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255 ' • INDEX CoMPILED BY Mrss M. H. JAMES. For Obituary Notices, see IN MEMORIAM, and for Revie,vs of Books see REVIEWS, both in CoNTENTS. AcciDENTS ALPINE NoTEs, I2I, 271 x8g8, 61 & n. Alps, Eastern, Accidents in, 282 1922, 68 American Alpine Club, Karakoram ' 1932, IS Expedition of, 272 I937, I23-4, I27, 2IO, 282, 286 Anderegg, Melchior, guide, 279 Aconcagua: Third Ascent, 249 Peter, guide, 279 Adishtau, N. Arete: Ascent, 84 Annan, Mt. : Fifth Ascent, by new Adyr-su Bashi, Traversed, 276 route, 94-5 Aghil Pass, Crossing repeated, 277 Arctic Explorations of Conway, 256 'Alam Kuh: First Ascent, 246 Avalanches, Ice and Snow, 24, 45, 76, Aletschhorn : Ascent, 269 79, 8x, go, 92, 94, I 26, I 27, Klein's Ascent, 269 255-6, 280, 282, 283 Aletschhorn - Loetschenliicke - Con­ Aymonod, J. B., guide, 250, 252 cordia traversed, 269 Almer, Christian, guide, 8o Christian III, guide, I72 BADILE, Piz Almer, the, guides, I I9 Accidents on, 68, 286 Alpes Maritimes, Accident in, 282 Ascent by W. Arete, 286 ALPINE CLUB Struck by lightning on, 6 5 'At Home,' 151 Bagini Pass, Crossing of, 32, 33, 34 Dinner, ISI Balmat, Jacques, du Mt. Blanc, guide, Films shown before, 150, 3IO 75 Gifts to, 27I · Pierre, guide, I Library : Additions, I4I, 302 Balmhorn : Ascent by E.
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