•

THE ALPINE JOURNAL

Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255 THE •

A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB

VOLUME 49

(NOS. 254 AND 255) 1 937

EDITED BY E. L. STRUTT

PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CLUB

74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W. 1 1937 CONTENTS PAGE

ALPINE AcciDENTs IN I937 . • • • • • • 282 ALPINE CLUB

'At Home' • • • • • • • • . ISI Dinner . • • • • • • • • . ISI Gifts to . • • • • • • • • . 271 Library . • • • • • • • • 14I, 302 Members

Deaths • • 108, 12I, ISO, ISI, 1s2, 210, 248, 27I, 282, 308 n, 309, 3 IO Elected • • • • • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 310 Honorary Deaths . . . . • 248, 2S9, 27I, 309, 3IO Elected . . . . • • . 121, IS2, 27I

New Premises . . . . • • . . . I SO Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIAM) • • . . I2I, 27I Officers Elected . . . • • . . . IS I Proceedings . . . . • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 3IO

ALPINE JOURNAL . . . • • . . . 27I ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Carstensz Massif, The, I936. By A. H. Colijn . . . I77 Chomolhari. By F. S. Chapman . . . . . 203 Climbing in the 'Sixties and the 'Seventies. By C. Wilson . I67 Complaints and Confessions of an Old Mountaineer. By P. Montandon ...... ss Dachstein Range, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . . 242 D.u.CE.A.-V., The, in the Caucasus. By R. Schwarzgruber . 79 Elburz Range, N. Persia, The German Expedition in. By D. L. Rusk ...... 2 4S Elie de Montgolfier's Climb on Mt. Blanc. By Claire- Eliane Engel ...... 70 Gebel Gharib, The Wrong Way up. By G. W. Murray . 228 German Sikkim Expedition, I936, The. By Paul Bauer . 4I Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim, Ascent of . . . . I03 In the Footsteps of Dr. Paccard. By E. H. Stevens . . I Julian Alps, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . . . I04 Kamet, I937 Attempt by Soldiers. By R. Ridley . . • • 239 Verse. By G. Yeld . . . . . • • 24I Nanda Devi, The Ascent of. By H. W. Tilman . • • I3 Nanda Devi District, Survey in. By E. E. Shipton • • 27

Nanga Parbat, The Disaster on, 1937 . . • • 210 • Vl CONTENTS

ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. cont. PAGE New Guinea, Ascent of Carstensz. By A. H. Colijn . . 203 Relativity in Mountaineering. By R. L. G. Irving . . I 53 Ski-Mountaineering in New Zealand. By C. W. Wyatt . 87 South Mrica, Union of, Mountaineering Conditions in. By D. G. Mills ...... 235 Struck by Lightning. By N. S. Finzi . . . . 6s Waddington, Mt., The First Ascent of. By Fritz Wiessner . 49 West Greenland, Mountains and Glaciers in. By H. N. Pal/in I90 CoRRESPONDENCE

Re The Accident on Nanga Parbat . • • • • 308

Re Himalayan Nomenclature . • • • • • I06 CORRIGENDA AND ADDENDA

No. 254 . . . • • • • • • • 3II Nos. 254 and 255 . • • • • • • • 3I3

DEATHS • • • I08, I2I, ISO, I52, 210, 248, 259, 27I, 282, 308 n., 309, 3 IO

EXPEDITIONS • • • • • • • • I I9, 268 IN MEMORIAM

Brulle, H. • • • • • • • • • III Collins, G. L. . • • • • • • • • 264 Conway of Allington, Lord • • • • • • 248 Cox, Major-General Sir P. Z. • • • • • • 117 Heim, Professor A. • • • • • • • • 259 Leith, R. F. C. • • • • • • • • 115

Moser, E. B. • • • • • • • • • 263 Mothersill, H. J. • • • • • • • • 26I

Osborn, I. S. • • • • • • • • • II6

Petherick, W. J. • • • • • • • • 259 Pollock, Sir F. • • • • • • • • I08

Wien, Dr. Karl • • • • • • • • 265 NOTES

Alpine • • • • • • • • • I21, 271 REVIEWS AND NOTICES After Everest (Somervell) ...... I32 Among the Meadows and Alpine Flowers of Northern Italy (Neame) ...... 300 i-\.scent, The, of Mt. Stalin (Romm) . . . . . I35 Ascent, The, of N anda Devi (Tilman) . . . . 292 Attack on Everest (Macintyre) ...... I3I Au Bout d'un Fil: Douze Ascensions Nouvelles dans les Alpes Suisses et Fran9aises (Blanchet) . . . 295 Bergvagabunden (Schmidkunz) ...... 298 Camp Six (Smythe) ...... 294 Complete Book of Ski-ing, The (Hallberg & Muckenbrunn, trs. B. Lunn)...... I39 • • CONTENTS Vll

REVIEWS AND NOTICES cont. PAGE Encordees· (Morin) • • • • • • • • 133 Mes Escalades dans les Alpes et le Caucase (Mummery) • 130 Mountain Geography (Peattie) • • • • • • 288 Mountain Scene, The (Smythe) • • • • • 296 Over Tyrolese Hills (Smythe) • • • • • • 130 Scrambles amongst the Alps (Whymper) • • • • 136 Ski-ing (Bracken) • • • • • • • • 139 Vom Mt. Blanc zum Wilden Kaiser (Plietz) • • • 138 vVie anders ist das Besteigen der Alpen geworden ! (Lammer) 297 'Villy Merkl : ein W eg zum Nanga Parbat • • • • 299

• INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS

ILLUSTRATIONS PAGE Aika, Coast Base, Sikorsky Camp in foreground . . opp. 184 'Alam Kuh, N. Face, and Takht-i-Suleiman . . . opp. 245 'Alam Kuh, N. Face, from Takht-i-Suleiman . . . . 245 Badile, Piz, N. Buttress ...... opp. 6s Balmhorn, E. Face ...... 274 Barberine ' Lake ' with Les Perrons . . . . opp. I72 Blanc, Mt., behind Mont Blanc du Tacul . . between S & 9 From Buet ...... opp. r6S Carstensz Glacier, E. Side of Carstensz Pyramid . . , IS5 Carstensz, M t., and its approaches, Views of . between I S4 & I 88 Caucasus Ailama ...... between So & SI Dykhtau, E. Peak and Summit . . . . , 8o & S1 Janga, Katuintau, Gestola, Elbruz in background , , So & SI Krumkholbashi, First Peak of . . . . . opp. SI Mishirgitau, E. and W. Peaks . . . . between So & S1 Shkara, Summit and W. Peak from N. . . . opp. 8o Chomolhari, various views . . . opp. 202, 203, 204, 205, 207 Col between Changabang and Rhamani Glaciers . between 32 & 33 Dachstein, S. Face ...... opp. 243 Dietrichsen Glacier descending . . . between 200 & 201 Edge of, in Melville Bay at Cape Seddon . , 200 & 201 View up Little Tugela River: Champagne Castle, Monk's Cowl, Cathkin Peak between 234 & 235 Dunagiri from N. and from S. . . . . , · 32 & 33 Eiger, the

In the Kalliwand . . . . . • • opp. 269 N.E. Face and Arc~te . . . . • • . 275

S.E. Face ...... • • opp. 26S Everest, Mt., N. Face . . . . • • '' !28 Gharib, Gebel, from the S. . . . . • • " 232 Gharib, Gebel Range, General view from the E. • • " 232 Gosausee with Dachstein . . . . • • '' 243 Greenland, West Cape Seddon and Melville Bay, Highest Peak of . . , 201 Kaersorssuak, M ts. of, looking E. . . between 200 & 20 I Melville Bay and Inland Ice . . . . , 200 & 201 Nugssuaq Peninsula, Lake District in interior . . opp. 201 X INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS

Greenland, West cont. PAGE

Quilertinguit, looking W. . • • • • • opp. 200

Umanak Island . . • • • • • " 200 Kamet

• Base Camp . . . . • • • • opp. 238 Camp 3 . . . . . • • • • " 239 Porters on the way to Camp 2 . • • • • " 238 Snow Gully to Camp 4 . . • • • • , 239 Liklo from the N. chain . . • • • • , 48

Memorial Tablet to Henri Brulle . • • • • . 280 Nanda Devi

From the E. . • • • • • . between I6 & I7

S. Face . . • • • • • . . opp. I7

Nanda Devi Basin • • • • • . . , I 6

Peaks on Rim . • • • • • . between I6 & I7 Nanda Ghunti

E. Ridge, end of . • • • • • • opp. 33

From Wan Pass . • • • • . . , 32

Nanda J{ot . . • • • • . between I6 & I7

Nanga Parbat . . • • • • . . opp. 2I I

Nepal Peak, at Dawn . • • • • . between 48 & 49 New Zealand Girdlestone Peak, from Ruapehu . . . . opp. 96 N gauruhoe, Ice forn1ations on Crater of . . . , 96 Ruapehu, Summit, Ice on . . . . between 96 & 97 Tongariro, S. Crater of . . . . . , , 96 & 97 Wilczek Peak ...... , 96 & 97 W. Arete, descending ...... opp. 97 Panorama of 'Alam Kuh, Pta. Martha, and Takht-i-Suleiman, showing N. Wall of 'Alam Kuh and Sarchal Glacier opp. 246 Panorama from the Highest Summit of the Nugssuaq looking E. and looking S.W...... opp. 296 Phari Plain from Chomolhari, Kangchenjunga, with . , , 206 Pocket Note-book of Brulle ...... I I3 Pomagagnon, S. Face ...... 273 Pumori ...... opp. I29 Simonsberg ...... , 235 Simvu, Highest Summit with Lower E. Arete of Kangchen- junga ...... between 48 & 49 Pt. 6545 m. of ...... ,, 48 & 49 Simvu Massif from Stein Pass . . . . . opp. 49 Siniolchum ...... between 48 & 49 Looking towards Summit . . . . . ,, 48 & 49 Summit of ...... ,, 48 & 49 Spitzbergen: Conway Surveying at Midnight . . . 257 Spitze Fluh from the N...... opp. 64 Tacul, Aig. du (the Peak on the S.) . . . . , 9 Tacul Basin, The ...... , 2 • INDEX OF ILLUSTRATIONS, PORTRAITS, AND MAPS Xl

PAGE

Tent Peak, at Dawn • • • • • • between 48 &; 49

Tetnuld, N. Face • • • • • • • opp. 27I Tschingellochtighorn • • • • • • • I72 " Upper Rishi Gorge, The • • • • • between I 6 &; I 7 Ushba Red Wall towards ' Red Corner ' • • • • opp. 277 S. and N. Peaks • • • • • • • 276 " Vazzeda and di Rosso, Cime, North Slopes • • • I69 Waddington, Mt. "

From Icefall Pt. • • • • • • • opp. 52 S.W. Face • • • • • • • opp. 53, 54, 55 View towards W .. • • • • • • opp. 54 Waaihochi Peak, Summit, in Winter • • between 234 &; 235

PORTRAITS

Brulle, H. • • • • • • • • • opp. I I3 Conway of Allington, Lord • • • • opp. I53 &; opp. 248 Heim, Professor Albert • • • • • • opp. 265 Montgolfier, Elie de . • • • • • • " 7I Moser, E. B. • • • • • • • • 264 " Mothersill, H. J. • • • • • • • , 249 Pollock, Sir F. • • II2 • • • • • • " Wien, Karl • • •• • • • • • 265 " MAPS

Carstensz Massif. • • • • • • • opp. 3 I2 South Mrica • • • • • • • • • 237 Tacul Basin • • • • • • • • • 2 CORRIGENDA TO NOS. 254 AND 255

CORRIGENDA TO NOS. 254 AND 255·

• Illustration facing p. 54· Title should read ' Mt. Bell on right fore­ ground.' H. S. H. Panorama facing p. 246. Title should read . . . ' showing N. wall of 'Alam Kuh and Sarchal Glacier.' Portrait facing p. 265. Title should read ' Karl Wien 1906-1937·' P. 281, footnote 7, for 'A.J. 45' read 'A.J. 44·' P. 282, footnote I,jor 'A.J. 44· 189' read' 198.'

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VOL. XLIX. NO. CCLV. y INDEX

Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255

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INDEX

CoMPILED BY Mrss M. H. JAMES.

For Obituary Notices, see IN MEMORIAM, and for Revie,vs of Books see REVIEWS, both in CoNTENTS. AcciDENTS ALPINE NoTEs, I2I, 271 x8g8, 61 & n. Alps, Eastern, Accidents in, 282 1922, 68 American Alpine Club, Karakoram ' 1932, IS Expedition of, 272 I937, I23-4, I27, 2IO, 282, 286 Anderegg, Melchior, guide, 279 Aconcagua: Third Ascent, 249 Peter, guide, 279 Adishtau, N. Arete: Ascent, 84 Annan, Mt. : Fifth Ascent, by new Adyr-su Bashi, Traversed, 276 route, 94-5 Aghil Pass, Crossing repeated, 277 Arctic Explorations of Conway, 256 'Alam Kuh: First Ascent, 246 Avalanches, Ice and Snow, 24, 45, 76, Aletschhorn : Ascent, 269 79, 8x, go, 92, 94, I 26, I 27, Klein's Ascent, 269 255-6, 280, 282, 283 Aletschhorn - Loetschenliicke - Con­ Aymonod, J. B., guide, 250, 252 cordia traversed, 269 Almer, Christian, guide, 8o Christian III, guide, I72 BADILE, Piz Almer, the, guides, I I9 Accidents on, 68, 286 Alpes Maritimes, Accident in, 282 Ascent by W. Arete, 286 ALPINE CLUB Struck by lightning on, 6 5 'At Home,' 151 Bagini Pass, Crossing of, 32, 33, 34 Dinner, ISI Balmat, Jacques, du Mt. Blanc, guide, Films shown before, 150, 3IO 75 Gifts to, 27I · Pierre, guide, I Library : Additions, I4I, 302 Balmhorn : Ascent by E. Face, 273 l\1embers Baltoro Glacier, Exploration of, 254-5 Deaths, xo8, I2I, ISO, ISI, I52, Balzetto, Piz: Ascent from W., 120 2IO, 2I6, 248, 282, 308 n., Barentritt, Accident at, 6 I 309, 310 Bartleet, A. 1\II.: death, 121, I52 Elected, 150, ISI, I52, 309, 3IO Belledonne, the, Accident on, 282 Honorary Berglistock : Third Ascent .and New Deaths, 248, 259, 27I, 309, 3 ro Route from S.W., 1 xo Elected, 12I, I52, 27I Bernese Oberland, Remarkable Ex­ New Premises, ISO peditions in, 272 Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIAM Bernina under CONTENTS), I2I, 271 Accidents in (I8g8), 6I Otficers Elected, I 5 I W. Wing : Ascents, I 20 Proceedings, ISO, ISI, I52,309,316 Bettega, Michele, guide, 1 r 2 Telegram of sympathy sent by, to Bezingi Horseshoe, Crossing of, 8o Pius XI, 151 Biersack, J. : death, I 27 Votes of Thanks, I so, I 5 I, r 52, 309, Bietschhorn 310 Ascents by Stephen, First and later, Alpine Fauna, 4, xo, r I, 37, 39, 78, 279 97, 100 Traversed by N. Arete and E. Spur, Alpine Flora, 3, 4, II, 34, 35, 36, 37, 268 62,97, I04 Biner, Franz Josef, guide, 6o ff. ALPINE JOURNAL, THE Black Peak : First Ascent, 48 Ne"' Editor, 271 Blackden, Brig.-General L. S. : death, Notes of Expeditions for, 28 I 271,3I0 INDEX

Blanc, Mt. Corrigenda, see under CoNTENTS Elie de Montgolfier's Climb on, Cox, Major-General Sir P. Z. : death, 70 II7, 152 Third Ascent by Route Major, 276 Blanc, Pierre, guide, I68, I69 Blanche, Dent (Pennines) : Winter DACHSTEIN R.c\NGE Ascent, I27 Climbs in, 242 Bobba, G. First Ascents, 244 Memorial to, 280 S. Face : First Ascent, 244 Note on, I28 Dalness Forest, Appeal for acquiring, Bohren, Peter, guide, 170 309 Boss, Fraulein Cecile : death, I27 Dauphine, Expeditions in, xI 9 Bowie, Mick, guide, 88, 89, 90, 98, 99 Demavend : Ascent, 246 Brenta Group, New path in, 278 Dibona, Angelo, guide, 276 Brenva, Col de la Fourche de Ia, lgnazio, guide, 276 Accident on, 282, 283 Disgrazia, Mte., ' Shelter ' hut on, Brown, W. V. : death, I2I I22-3 Brulle, H. : death, I I I Doldenhorn, Gross, S.W. Face, Route Memorial tablet to, 279 up, 128 Brunskill, W. : death, I2I, 150 Drakensberg, the, Heights in, 235 Bshedukhtau Ridge, Traverse of, 8 5 Dreieckhorn, Traverse of, by new Burgener, Siegfried, guide, 170, 172 routes, IIO Du Croz, Michel, guide, 279 Dunagiri, Mt. : Reconnaissances of, CARREL, J. A., guide, 127 n. 36 J. B., guide, I27 n. Durrenhorn : Ascent by S.E. Arete, Louis, guide, I27 n., 252 129 Carstensz Massif, Exploration of, 177 Klein: Ascent from the E., 129 Peak : First Ascent, I 02 Pyramid, Attempted, I 87 EIGER Casualties, Suppression of, 282 Ascent by N.E. (Mitteleggi) Arete, Caucasus 273 Dykhtau to Koshtantau Ascent by S.E. (l{alli) Face, 269 Traverse of ridge connecting, Eigerhornli, E. (Baregg) Face of, 277 79, 84 Eigerwand S.W. Arete and Ascent, 82 Access to, permitted, 121 D.u.

Freak Expeditions, 2 77 Huts, &c. cont. Freiger, Wilde : Descent by new 284; Mojstrana, xos ; on Mt. route, I IO Blanc, s; in New Zealand, 87, 88, 89, 92 n., IOo-1 ; Pierre Bordier, 128; Pioneer, 98; Sammoar, 127; GABELHORN, Ober, Accident on, 287 S.A.C. in 1936, 278 ; Sciora, 6s ; Gardetta, Passo della, Accident on, Theodore Korner, 244 ; Topali, I27 278 ; Tosa, 278 ; Tuckett, 278 ; Gaspards, the, guides, 1 I 1, I 12 Vallot, 114, 266, 276, 279 Geant, Aig. du., Accident on, 282 Gestola, N. Face : Ascent, 8I Glockerin, N. W. Face : First Ascent, INNOMINATA, L', Arete : Ascent, 276 266 lseran, Col d', Road opened, 277 Glockner, Gross, N. Face : First Ascent, 266 Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim : First }AMES, C. Ashworth : death, 271, 309 Ascent, 103 Janga, E. Peak: Ascent, 8I Green Lake Peak : First Ascent, 48 Japanese Alpine Club, Memorial Greenland, West, Mountains and Tablet by, to the Rev. W. Glaciers in, I go Weston, I28 Grigna, Accident on, 282 Julian Alps, A Note on, I04 Grindelwald, Freedom of, presenta­ J ungfrau, Rockfall on, 280 tion of, to M. and Mme. Jura, Accidents in, 282 Hasler, I28 Gulba, Traversed, 276 KAERSORSSUAK: Ascents, I97 Kamet HAMILTON, Mt.: Ascent, 93 Attempt by soldiers, 1937, 239 Hasler, M. and Mme. G., Freedom of Verses on, 241 Grindelwald conferred on, Kangchenjunga, Attempts on, 4I 128 Karakoram, the Heim, Dr. A. : death, 2S9, 271, 3IO Expeditions in Herbetet, S. Arete : Winter Ascent, American Alpine Club, 272 127 French, I 4, I 28 Himalayan Nomenclature, Io6 'Record' Ascent in, 249 Hinton, H. A. : death, 27I, 3IO Katuintau : Second Ascent, 84- s Hispar Glacier: Crossing of, 2S4 Kaufmann, Christian, guide, I7I Hochschwab, the, Accident on, 286 Kitar, porter: death, 2S Hohberghorn, N.E. Face: Descent, Klucker, Christian, guide, 169 I29 Koshtantau : Ascent, 83, 84 Holmes, E. G. A. : death, ISO Kronte, Accident on, 282 Huts, Chalets, Inns, Refuges, Shelters, Krumkholbashi : Second Ascent, 83 &c., I76, 238, 244 ; Adamek, 243 ; under Aig. du Moine, I I ; Al­ berico, 283 ; Aljaz, 104 ; Almer, LEITH, R. F. C.: death, IIS, I2I, IS2 92, 96 ; Ball, 88, 89, 93, 94, 99, Lliwedd, Mishap on, I23 IOO ; Berliner, 127 ; Bernina, 278; Lys, Val de: Accident in, 127 Bietschhorn, 268 ; bivacchi fixi, Lyskamm, W. Peak : First Winter I22, 123; bivouacs, 286; Bobba, Ascent, 266 I 22; Britannia, 264; Caucasus, So, 8 I, 82, 84, 86; Chancellor, 97, 98; Club and' Shelter,' I22; on Col de MADONNA, Pta. della : Second Ascent, la Fourche, 276 ; Concordia, I72, II2 269 ; Corti, I22; Dossen, I70, I7I, Maquignaz, Daniel, guide, I 27 n. I 72 ; Eigerwand, 284; Erjavceva, J. J., guide, 127 n. I 04 ; Gianetti, 67 ; Gleckstein, Matterhorn 171 ; at Godley Glacier, xoo ; First Winter Ascent and Traverse Hermitage, g8, IOO ; Hofpiirgli, of, 127 & n. 244 ; Hollandia, 269 ; Karlsruhe, Winter Ascent from Italian side, 262 ; Kranjska Gora, xos ; Malte alone, 126 Brun, 89, go, 92 n. ; Mitteleggi, 270, Meije, La : Ascent, I 1 I 320 INDEX

Minarets, the: Ascents, 95, 96 Perdu, Mt.: Ascent, I 12 Minya Konka, I 5 Petherick, W. J. : death, 259, 27 I, Mishirgitau 310 Second Ascent, 82 Pic sans Nom, Petit, N. Face : E. Peak: Ascents, First and Second, Ascent, II9 83 Pius XI, Pope, Telegram of Sympathy \V. Peak : First Ascent, 82 to, from A.C., I5I Mittelholzer, W. : death, 286, 287 Podon Peak: First Ascent, 47 Moeveran, Grand : Accident on, 282 Pollinger, Josef, guide, I 69 Montandayne, Becca di : Winter Pollock, Sir F.: death, 108, I2I, I52 Ascent, 127 Pomagagnon, S. Face: Ascents, 273 Moser, E. B.: death, 121, 151, 263 Pyrenees, the : First Ascents in, by Mothersill, H. ]. : death, 261, 271, Brulle, I I3-I4 310 Mountaineering, Rational, I 2 I Relativity in, I53 RAKAPOSHI, 256 Mouret, the (Mauvais Pas) : Ascents, Ravanel, Joseph, guide, I o 4 & n. Razor, Mt., N. Face: Ascent, 105 Muztagh Pass, First Crossed, 277 Requin, Dent du : Accident on, from ' Mystery Mountain,' see Waddington, lightning, 282 Mt. Resch, Karl, guide, 242, 243 Revers, Grand: Winter Ascent, I27 Rigele, Dr. : death, 28I NADELGRAT, Revisited in I936, I28 Rishi Gorge, 27 Names given to Peaks and Passes by Passage of, 28 Conway, 253, 255 Rodier, J. B., guide, I I2 Nanda Devi: First Ascent, 13, 28 Ronti Peak, 3 8 N anda Devi District Roth, Kaspar, guide, 8o Rubi, Adolf, guide, I 17 Mountain Nomenclature in, 3 I Peter, guide, I IO Survey in, 2 7 Nanda Ghunti, 38 Ruchenfenstertunn, Accident on, 285 Nanga Parbat Rupa, Mt.: Ascent, new, I05 Accident on, 282 Reports of, 21 o :ff. SAUVAGE, Edouard : death, 277 German attempt on, I937, I2I Scalino, Lo : Ascent from E., I 20 New Guinea, see Carstensz Schreckhorn, S. W. Aret~ : · Ascent via, Ne'\-v Zealand 273 Huts in, 87, 88, 89, 92, IOO-I Klein : Third Ascent : New Route Ski-mountaineering in, 87 in Descent, I IO New Zealand Alpine Club, Huts of, Schuster, Sir F. : Memorial to, 272 IOO S.A.C. Huts in I936, 278 Ngga Poeloe: Ascent, r86 Statement of, on Rational Moun- • • 'Niti No. 3 ' (Mt.) : Ascent, 33 ta1neenng, I z I Nugssuaq: Ascents, 20I-2 Seddon, Cape, District, Highest Peak in: Ascent, 199, 201 Sheldikhtau, N. Face : Ascent, 8 5 OETZTHAL: Accident in, I27 Sherpa porters, I4, 25, 28 Ogi, Abraham, guide, 173 Shkara, Highest Peak : Ascent and Franz, guide, 172 Traverse to W. Peak, So Ondezana : Winter Ascent, I.27 Shkara to Zanner Pass : First Traverse Osborn, I. S. : death, I 16, I2I, 152 of, 8o Sikkim British Exploration in, I4 PARADISO, Gran : Winter Ascent, I27 German Expedition in, 1935, 41 Pasang Kikule, Sherpa porter, I 4, 2 5 Simvu : N .E. Summit attained, 4 7 Passet, Celestin, guide, III, II2 Siniolchum Peak : First Ascent, 4 7 ' Patriotism ' and so-called First Ski Club of South Africa, 238 Ascents, 272 Ski-mountaineering, New Zealand, 87 Payot, E., guide, 10 Ski-ing Accidents, 127 v Peak (21,770 ft.) unnamed: Ascent, Skrlatica: Ascent by the 'Kugyweg,' 30- 1 IOS INDEX 321

South Africa, Mountaineering Condi­ U.I.A.A., the, 122 tions in, 235 Spencer, S., Elected Hon. Member VIGNEMALE: Ascent, I 12 Alpine Club, I 2 I, I 52 ' Squance, F. C.: death, 27I, 309 Stephen, S~r Leslie : Ascents by, of the WADDINGTON, Mt. : First Ascent, 49 Btetschhorn, First and later, Watzmann, the 279 Accident on, I24 I Stone and Rockfalls, I 5, I 8 I 9 270 Winter Ascents, 24 273, z8o, 287 ' ' ' Wenham, C. H. : death, I 2 I, 309 Struck by Lightning, 6 5 Weston, Rev. W., Memorial Tablet Stubai Alps, Accident in, I27 to, set up by the Japanese . Supersaxo, Oscar, guide, I I7 Alpine Club, 128 Sustenpass, Road in progress, 277 White Peak : First Ascent, 48 Wien, Dr. K.: death, 2IO, 2I8, 265, 27I, 282, 308 n., 3IO TABLE Mountain, 236, 237 Wiesbachhom Grosse Tacul Basin, Paccard's Exploration Accident on, 28 I n. of, I First Ascent, 28 I Tatra, the, Accident in, 282 Wilczek Peak : First Ascent, 90, Tent Peak : Second Peak : First 91 & n. Ascent, 44 Wilczek and Elie de Beaumont, Tiktengen Traverse of, 92 n. Ascent and Traverse of, 79 Williams, W. : Elected Hon. Member, First Ascent, 79 A.C., 27I Tour, Fenetre du, First Crossing of, Wilson, Dr. Claude: death, 3IO IIO Winter Ascents, I24, 127 & n. Triglav, N. Face : Ascent by ' Slo­ Workman, W. Hunter: death, 271 vene ' Route, I05 Tucuche: Ascent, 1 ro ZoJI LA in June, 1937, 226 Tyrolean and Salzburg Alps, report Zopf, Loisl, guide, 242, 243 on, 272 Zurbriggen, Mattias, guide, 255

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