Published by : Tourism Board Himalayan Peaks of Bhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal P. O. Box: 11018 Fax: 977-1-4256910 Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229 NEPAL E-mail: [email protected] (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m)

Nepal Tourism Board www.welcomenepal.com

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BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 1 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:481:47:48 AMAM The information contained in this book has been outsourced from an expert writer while every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and reliability. However, in case of lapses and discrepancies, revisions and updates would be subsequently carried out in the forth- coming issues.

2009 Edition © NTB

All Images User Rights, Jagadish Tiwari Images By : Page - 7 - Harka Tamang : Page - 9, 13- Dilip Ali : Page - 17 - Raju Bhandari & : Rest of Images by Jagadish Tiwari

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21 e s t a l 3 o h Cholatse , Everest region region CCholatse peak, Everest 7

19 15 13 5 9 17 11 Mt. Lhotse Mt. Mt.Everest Mt.Everest Mt. Makalu Mt. Mt. Manaslu Mt. Mt. Cho Mt. Mt. Dhaulagiri Mt. Mt. Annapurna Mt. Mt.Kanchenjunga CONTENTS Mountains Over 8000m High Mountains Over Introduction/ The Introduction/ Eight-thousanders Royalty for Expeditions Mountaineering for Royalty Some important Rules and Regulations Mountaineering 3

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 3 al a ep e N N f of o s k ak e Pe P n a ya a la l a ma m i Himalayan Peaks of Nepal Himalayan Peaks of Nepal Hi H

4 Pangboche village with Kwangde peak

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:47:57 AM with annapurna range n1950, a French expedition summitted the first mountain over first mountain over expedition summitted the a French n1950, at- and although countless I, Annapurna It was 8000m in height. I tempts had been made on Mt. Everest, the highest mountain in the Everest, on Mt. tempts had been made mountains These then. no expedition had succeeded until world, and all fourteen as the eight-thousanders of them lie known are are They of eight. Nepal has a big share Of the fourteen, Asia. in Lhotse (8516m), Kanchenjunga (8,586m), (8,848m), Everest Mt. Manaslu (8167m), Dhaulagiri Cho Oyu (8201m), Makalu (8,463m), part are These lofty peaks I (8,091m). Annapurna and (8,163m), alaya= Him= snow, of the Snows, Abode (The of the Himalaya place.) a natural boundary Nepal dwelling and form wall between and Nepal in the / in the north between and and Aconcagua (6,959m) of Asia is the highest peak outside The east. in America and the highest mountain South in Peru, Andes the HIMALAYAN PEAKS OF NEPAL OF PEAKS HIMALAYAN above) meters and (8,000 5

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 5 Europe, Mt. Elbrus is significantly smaller, then astounded the world by climbing all rising no higher than 5,643m. eight-thousanders. Inspired by the great man, others followed in his footsteps and It is believed the Himalaya was formed there are mountaineers still in the quest around 50 million years ago and that, of achieving this great feat. in geological time is considered recent, which is why this gigantic chain of The zone above 8000m is called the mountains is called the youngest in the Death Zone as many have perished in world. These mountains are still rising. It the thin cold air that taxes the body to is also known that the region occupied its limits. Doubts were raised before the by the Himalayan range today, was once conquest of Everest whether man could a shallow Tethys sea. Countless fossils of survive at such dizzying heights. But the mollusks are found even today proving British had been attempting to climb the point. Gigantic forces moved the the world’s highest peak from the early Indo-Australian Plate against the Eur- 1920s via Tibet. Many perished in the asian continental Plate causing the land attempt. Nepal had firmly shut its doors to fold upwards creating a massive chain to outsiders, hence all expeditions took of mountains over millions of years. The the longer and more demanding route Himalaya stretches 2,400 km across east via Tibet, but none were successful. How- to west. ever, in the early 1950s, Nepal opened its doors to the outside world and there Four of the other eight-thousanders was a mad rush to climb from the south. are in while one lies in China. A few expeditions were permitted each Eight-thousanders are the ultimate chal- year and it was only in May 1953 that lenge for any mountaineer. They have and fascinated the avid climber who is always reached the top of Everest becoming the on the lookout for fresh challenges. A first humans to do so. The French who towering figure among all the climbers conquered the first eight-thousander is the Tyrolean champion mountaineer, seemed to have set the ball rolling for . He took mountain the rest of the world to try and be the l climbing to new heights when along first to climb a virgin eight-thousander. with Peter Habelar he climbed Everest The mountaineers were surprisingly without the aid of bottled oxygen. This successful during the 1950s and this

s of Nepa feat had previously been deemed too decade subsequently became know as k dangerous. While Habelar disappeared the Golden Decade of Climbing. All but from the limelight, Messner went on to two of the fourteen eight-thousanders accomplish a solo climb of Everest and were climbed during the 1950s. imalayan Pea Himalayan Peaks of Nepal H

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:03 AM E ” 31 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 55 Longitude: N, ” 17 ’ ver since the highest peak in the world was identified by an identified by was world since the highest peak in the ver the moun- of India in 1852, of the Geological Survey employee E tain has fascinated and drawn climbers from around the world. the world. around climbers from drawn tain has fascinated and when the historic discovery was made, XV as Peak simply Known General, the then Surveyor by ‘Everest’ named it was eventually George Everest. in honour of his predecessor, Waugh Andrew mountain) close to the Tibetans and Sherpas (who lived The later the Nepalese Government it as Chhomolungma and knew the famous climbers like The early ‘Sagarmatha’. it the name gave Irvine attempted to climb Andrew and duo, Tibetan side which lies on the northern side of Everest. the from Mt.Everest (8,848m, Sagarmatha Sagarmatha (8,848m, Mt.Everest mountain The highest in Nepali): in the world Latitude: 27° 59 Latitude: 7

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 7 The first British Everest Reconnaissance picture, which graced the front pages Expedition to the mountain was led by of newspapers around the world. It was Lt. Colonel Charles Howard-Bury and a great moment in history not only for George Mallory was part of the team. the two climbers but for mankind in The northern and eastern reaches of general. Before the epic climb there the mountain were explored and on had been much speculation as doubts 24th September 1921, Guy Bullock along were raised if man could survive at with Mallory became the first climbers such great altitudes. The previous year, to reach a height of 7000m on Everest. Tenzing had almost reached the top They had climbed to the of with Swiss climber , the mountain establishing the northern but it was the British expedition led route. Nepal being completely cut off by John Hunt that got the eventual from the rest of the world (except for a honours. Way back in 1924, Mallory and few invited guests), no attempts could be Irvine had disappeared after they were made from the south. In Tibet, the Dalai last seen 240m below the summit. Al- Lama of the time had given permission to though Mallory’s well preserved body the foreigners to climb even though he was found high up on the mountain in wondered why they wanted to do such a 1999, nobody is really sure if the duo senseless thing. To Asians it made no sense made it to the summit or died on the at all; risking one’s life to reach the top of way up. a mountain that is covered in snow under bitterly cold conditions. Since 1953, many records have been broken and many sherpas have climbed Mt. Everest lies in the region more than ten times each. The record of Nepal on the northern border holder Apa Sherpa has climbed the peak with Tibet and also falls within the an astounding eighteen times. Many . After many today climb to set a new record such as attempts had been made on the moun- the speed record. Others have climbed tain, it was Tenzing Norgay and Edmund to become the youngest or the oldest. Hillary who finally proved to the world A blind man made it to the top and so l that it could be climbed. At 9:30am on did an amputee. With modern gear and a sunny morning of 29th May 1953, sherpas to guide them, climbing has be- the New Zealander and the Sherpa come so much simpler than in the early

s of Nepa Sirdar stood triumphantly atop the days when nobody knew which way to go k highest mountain in the world. While or even if it was possible to summit. The Tenzing stood on the summit with most common way up to the summit is a collection of flags, Hillary took his the southeast ridge route. imalayan Pea Himalayan Peaks of Nepal H

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:07 AM E ” 25 ’ N, Longitude: 88° 09 Longitude: N, ” 09 ’ here was a time when Mt. Kanchenjunga was considered the considered Kanchenjunga was was a time when Mt. here the startling before This was world. highest mountain in the T discovery made by the Chief Computer (today they are replaced replaced are they Computer (today the Chief discovery made by XV was in fact higher out that Peak machines) who pointed by that Peak it became apparent Later Kanchenjunga. IX, than Peak mountain after Everest highest the third only IX was actually The lies 128 km east of Everest. It Pakistan). and (Karakoram, the state face lies in Nepal while the other side lies in western Kanchenjunga or Kangchenzonga in Sikkimese India. of Sikkim, as the mountain has Snows” of the Great treasures “Five means (8,586m), Kanchenjunga main are They peaks. prominent five and the (8,420m), West Kanchenjunga Kang (8,505m), Yalung Himalayan most of the other Unlike (both 8,476m). Peaks Twin mountain lies north this to south and the Kanchenjunga peaks, Kanchenjunga (8,586m): Kanchenjunga mountain highest The third world in the Latitude: 27° 42 Latitude: 9

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 9 glacier drains into the Tamur River which The next attempt was made by Gilmour is a tributary of the Koshi. Lewis and George Frey in 1951 looking for an easier route to the top. He failed and Climbing Kanchenjunga had been contem- returned two years later with John Kempe plated by many as far back as in 1882, yet no but met with no success. He returned once attempt was made until 1905. The first to go again in 1954 with a new team of climbers up the Yalung glacier was Alaister Crowley but luck was not on his side. but he lost four men on the mountain; a Lieutenant Pache and three porters. For Fifty years after the first attempt, in fifteen years, no one dared another attempt. 1955, a British expedition took off, led by In 1929, an American climber named Francis Charles Evans, who had been a member Farmer left behind his porters and climbed of the successful expedition on Everest up the south face but was never seen again. two years earlier. Two Britons, George Then Paul Bauer led a Bavarian expedition Band and finally made it to the up the mountain later in the same year and summit of this difficult mountain. Given reached the altitude of 7,700m. Following an the fact that the Sikkimese considered unsuccessful attempt by Gunther Dyhren- the mountain very sacred, the summi- furth in 1930, Bauer made a second attempt teers refrained from stepping right up to in 1931. Hans Hartman and Dr. Karl Wien the top. They stopped five vertical feet reached 7,990m before they were forced below the summit on 25th May. Finally, to turn back. Kanchenjunga, the third highest mountain in the world had been conquered. The With the outbreak of the Second World- first Nepali to climb this peak was Ang War, there was no climbing in the . Phurba Sherpa on 14th May 1980. l s of Nepa k imalayan Pea Himalayan Peaks of Nepal H

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:12 AM E ” 03 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 56 Longitude: N, ” t. Lhotse is connected to Everest via the and is via the South Col Lhotse is connected to Everest t. The main summit the fourth mountain in the world. highest 45 ’ M is 8,516 m while (East) is 8,414 metres and Lhotse (East) is 8,414 metres Middle is 8,516 m while Lhotse climbers making an attempt on often, Very Shar is 8,383 metres. the usual route In fact, the Lhotse to acclimatize. up go Everest, starts of Lhotse and then face up the northwest leading to Everest famous mountain. the more to cuts across the 1955 International attempt on Lhotse was made by An early and led by It was Expedition. Himalayan Erwin Schneider and Ernst Senn Austrians, also included two Arthur Spöhel. Bruno Spirig and Swiss climbers, as two as well to include area It was also the first expedition in the Everest McGowan. and Richard George Bell, Beckey, Americans:Fred Lhotse (8,516m): the fourth (8,516m): Lhotse in the mountain highest world Latitude: 27° 57 Latitude: 1 1

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 11 Mt. Amadablam-way to Everest Base Camp

They climbed up the West Cwm and 1956, a Swiss team of Ernst Reiss and the northwest face of Lhotse reaching Fritz Luchsinger from the Swiss Mount an altitude of 8,100 metres. They were Everest/Lhotse Expedition reached the beaten back by unexpectedly strong summit becoming the first climbers to do wind and cold temperatures. so. was summitted on 12th May by Zepp Maier and Rolf Walter of Working under cartographer Schneider’s . It was some time before Lhotse direction, they completed the first map Middle was climbed, and for many years of the Everest area. They also made sev- remained the highest unclimbed, named eral short films on local cultural topics. point on Earth. It was only on 23rd May Besides trying to summit Lhotse, the 2001, that members of a Russian expedi- l expedition also made a number of first tion made it to the top of this peak. The ascents of smaller peaks in the Khumbu victorious team members were Eugeny region. Vinogradsky, Sergei Timofeev, Alexei Bo-

s of Nepa lotov and Petr Kuznetsov. The first winter k On this mountain, it was the Swiss who ascent on Lhotse was made by a Polish were victorious. Victorious-- because climber named on 31st in the 1950s, there was much competi- December 1988 and the first Nepali to tion between nations to summit a virgin climb it was Urkien Tshering Sherpa on peak before the others. On 18th May 8th May 1977. imalayan Pea Himalayan Peaks of Nepal H

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:16 AM E ” 20 ’ N, Longitude: 87° 05 Longitude: N, ” t.Makalu is 20 km east of Everest in the Khumbu region and region in the Khumbu of Everest t.Makalu is 20 km east The mountain lies in the world. is the fifth highest moutain 23 ’ M in the Makalu Barun National Park and is known for its perfect its perfect for Park and is known in the Makalu Barun National North of the mountain lies ridges. sharp with four shape pyramid or Kangchungtse, notable subsidiaryTibet and it has two peaks. The 7,678 m lies north-northwest of the main summit. Makalu II, other is which lies just north of the main peak. team American an The first attempt on Makalu was made by attempted the They William Siri in the spring of 1954. led by a constant turned back at 7,100 m by southeast ridge but were reconnaissance a French In the fall of 1954, of storms. barrage subsidiaryexpedition made the first ascent of the summit Makalu (8,463m): The fifth (8,463m): Makalu in the mountain highest world Latitude: 27° 53 Latitude: 3 1

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 13 Kangchungtse on 22nd October. They and failed. The very technical West Pillar were Jean Franco, Gyaltsen Norbu and route was climbed in May 1971 by French- Pa Norbu. men B. Mellet and Y. Seigneur. Makalu is one of the harder eight-thousanders and Makalu was first climbed on 15th May is considered one of the most difficult 1955 by and Jean Couzy, mountains in the world to climb. The members of a French Expedition led by mountain has challenging steep pitches Jean Franco. The very next day, Franco, and knife while the final ascent of the G. Magnone and Gyaltsen Norbu also summit pyramid involves technical rock summitted followed by Bouvier, S. climbing. In 2006, a French mountaineer Coupe, Leroux and A. Vialatte on the named Jean-Christophe Lafailee disap- 17th. The expedition climbed from the peared on Makalu while trying to make and northeast ridge via the the first winter ascent. This mountain is saddle between Makalu and Kangchun- the only Nepalese 8,000 m peak which gtse which subsequently became the has yet to be climbed in true winter con- standard route. ditions. The first Nepali to climb Makalu was Ang Chepal Sherpa on 1st May 1978. The first ascent of the southeast ridge Note: Most of the sherpas who climbed was made by Y. Ozaki and A. Tanaka from with the expeditions in the 1950s were a Japanese expedition on 23rd May 1970. considered Indian nationals as they had An American team had tried before them been living in India. l s of Nepa k

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:22 AM E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 39 Longitude: N, ” nlike other attempts, the successful expedition to Cho Oyu the successful expedition other attempts, nlike Austrian climber, had its origins in very simple circumstances. 37 ’ Herbert Tichy along with sherpas Adjiba and Pasang were gathered gathered Adjiba and Pasang were along with sherpas Tichy Herbert when fried liver, mountain and enjoying on a a campfire around could only Tichy Cho Oyu?” “Next year, asked, Pasang suddenly moun- Thus it was decided that the “Cho Oyu”. nod and repeat, Everest, years, In the previous be attempted in 1954. tain would among the other eight-thousanders. Annapurna and had been climbed. China between at the border of Everest, Cho Oyu lies 20 km west Goddess”. “Turquoise Cho Oyu means Tibetan, In and Nepal. an expedition by The first attempt on this mountain was made Britain Committee of Great Himalayan supported the Joint by U Cho Oyu (8201m): The sixth The sixth (8201m): Cho Oyu in the mountain highest world Latitude: 28° 05 Latitude: 5 1

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 15 as preparation for an attempt on Mount to the mountain would begin. Tenzing Everest the following year. With Eric and Hillary had also begun their trek Shipton as team leader, the expediton to Everest from this old city. As every also included Edmund Hillary, George expedition has its peculiarities, this one Lowe, Charles Evans and Tom Bourdilon, was no exception. There were only three but technical difficulties at an ice cliff foreign climbers and eleven sherpas on above 6,650m forced them to give up the team. . It was estimated that it would take two weeks to get everyone across Cho Oyu was finally climbed on 19th and it would also mean entering Tibetan October 1954 via the northwest ridge territory which it is believed Shipton was by Tichy, Joseph Jöchler and Pasang Dawa unwilling to do. Lama. Where as Shipton and team had been stopped by an ice cliff high on the It was Dyhrenfurth and Shipton who first mountain, the Austrians were able to came up with measurements that put tackle the problem in an hour and head Cho Oyu sixth on the list of the highest up towards the summit. Pasang’s casual mountains in the world. remark had led to a successful expedi- tion. This was the fifth eight-thousander The Austrian expedition led by Herbert to have been climbed. Cho Oyu is con- Tichy arrived in Birgunj in 1954 via India sidered the easiest to climb among the and flew into Kathmandu by means of eight-thousanders and is also one of the an Indian airliner of the time. Once they most popular. The first Nepali national to were packed and ready, they moved to climb the peak was Ang Phuri Sherpa on Bhaktapur from where the long trek 29th April 1987. l s of Nepa k

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:26 AM E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 83° 29 Longitude: N, ” he Dhaulagiri lies northwest of and climbing and climbing northwest of Pokhara he Dhaulagiri massif lies It looked impossible. first considered this mountain was at 46 ’ T formidable and the French expedition that came to Nepal in expedition and the French formidable this give even didn’t I, Annapurna climbed 1950 and successfully who came in 1809 Webb William Captain peak a second thought. When he Dhaulagiri. on Mt. to set eyes was the first European until Up he was amazed. calibrated the height of the mountain, highest the considered America were Andes in South the then, discovery of this new The news chain of mountains in the world. since the years many For incredulous. of the world left the rest was thought to be the highest mountain Dhaulagiri revelation, in the world. Dhaulagiri (8,167m): The (8,167m): Dhaulagiri in highest mountain seventh the world Latitude: 28° 41 Latitude: 7 1

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 17 High altitude Trekkers

“The White Mountain” as it was known expedition met with countless problems to foreigners, was one of the peaks that and was compounded by the crash of the could not be conquered during the Gold- . The pilot and repairman luckily es- en Decade. Although numerous attempts caped unhurt and walked all the way back were made throughout the 1950s, none to Pokhara from the mountain. But the were successful. A string of expeditions expedition persevered and 13th May 1960 arrived in Nepal: the Argentineans tried proved to be a lucky day for the moun- their luck in 1954. A Swiss-German team taineers as it was a bright sunny day with gave it a shot in 1955, and were followed practically no wind blowing. Six members by the Argentineans making a bid in 1956 of the expedition reached the summit to once again, but with no better luck. In become the first to climb Dhaulagiri. They 1958, the Swiss were back and returned were Kurt Diemberger, Nawang Dorjee yet again without reaching the summit. Sherpa, Ernst Forrer, Albin Schelbert, Peter Then it was the turn of the Austrians who Diener and Nima Dorjee Sherpa. Ten days could go no further than 7,802m. later, Jugo Weber and Michel Vaucher fol- l lowed in their footsteps and made it to In 1960, another Swiss expedition arrived the top. Nawang Dorjee became the first in Nepal led by Max Eiselin and the team Nepali to climb the peak.

s of Nepa included Kurt Diemberger and Norman k Dyhrenfurth who went on to earn a The numbers were amazing on this name for themselves. They brought along climb, 13 members set off to climb the a Pilatus Porter named ‘Yeti’ which was mountain, summitted on the 13th and it piloted by Ernst Saxer for making drops happened to be the 13 eight-thousander on the French Pass up in the mountain. The to be climbed. No bad luck there. imalayan Pea Himalayan Peaks of Nepal H

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:32 AM E ” 43 ’ N, Longitude: 84° 33 Longitude: N, ” t. Manaslu lies on the border between Gorkha and between Manaslu lies on the border t. Annapurna. districts in northern Nepal and 64 km east of 58 ’ M The Manaslu region encompasses the sub-tropical foothills of foothills the sub-tropical encompasses The Manaslu region border- high pastures Trans-Himalayan to the arid the Himalaya Manasa and the word from Manaslu is derived Tibet. ing “Mountain of the Spirit”. translates as by conquered were twelve Out of the fourteen eight-thousanders, by accounted for were two while only the west expeditions from Pangma (eight-thousander) which lies in China was Shisha Asians. the Chinese while Manaslu was first summitted first climbed by expedition. a Japanese by Manaslu (8,163m) The (8,163m) Manaslu in highest mountain eighth the world Latitude: 28° 32 Latitude: 9 1

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 19 The famous Manaslu trekking route goes comprised Katsuro Ohara, Toshio Imani- around the Manaslu massif over the pass shi, Dr. Hirokichi Tatsunama, Sonosuke down to Annapurna. The trekking trail Chitani, Kichiro Kato, Junijiro Muraki, follows the classic salt-trade route along Kiroyoshi Otsuka, Dr. Atsushi Tokunaga, the Budhi . Yuichi Matsuda, Minoru Higeta and Ta- kayoshi Yoda accompanied by Gyasten The first Japanese Manaslu Recon- Norbu as sherpa sardar. naissance Expedition ventured up the mountain in 1952 when the mountain This expedition had unique equipments, was still a virgin peak. Following this, the one of which was an oxygen generator first climbing expedition in 1953, went up which was set up in a separate tent the river Budi Gandaki’s course to reach from the climbers. From there oxygen the mountain. They were able to climb was pumped to all the other climbers in up to 7,750 m before turning back. The their respective tents. But this required expedition that came after them in 1954 the dedication of the expedition doc- was not so fortunate. Inhabitants of Samu tor, who had to remain awake all night village which lay on their route denied changing oxygen candles every one and them access to the mountain believing a half hours. they would bring them misfortune. The mountain they said was sacred to them. On 9th May 1956, Imanishi and Gyaltsen As a result, the climbers were forced to reached the summit of Manaslu becom- turn to instead. ing the first to do so. They could see Ganesh Himal, Annapurna, Dhaulagiri After the Nepalese Government man- and Machhapuchhare poking through the aged to pacify the villagers of Samu clouds. Following them, Kato and Higeta village, an advance party for the next also climbed to the top two days later. expedition was able to make their way The Japanese team was the first Asian up towards the mountain. The third Japa- expedition to make a first ascent of an nese Manaslu Expedition led by veteran eight-thousander. The first Nepali national climber, sixty-two year old Yuko Maki to climb the peak was Urkien Tshering l arrived in Kathmandu in 1956. The team Sherpa on 22nd April 1973. s of Nepa k

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:37 AM E ” 50 ’ N, Longitude: 86° 51 Longitude: N, ” he Annapurna range is a series of peaks stretching 55 km with stretching range is a series of peaks Annapurna he being the tenth highest I, Annapurna Mt. the highest point, 42 ' T summit in the world. It lies east of a great gorge cut through the cut through gorge It lies east of a great summit in the world. the which separates it from the Kali Gandaki River, by Himalaya of I is 34 km west Dhaulagiri the Dhaulagiri. other large massif, “full of grains” means literally Annapurna In Sanskrit I. Annapurna The Hindu of Harvests”. “Goddess to mean taken but is normally massif The entire Annapurna. of fertility as Goddess is also known (ACAP).Mt Project Area ConservationAnnapurna lies within the I is the main peak of this chain of mountains which Annapurna Annapurna are They its name. other peaks that share includes three South (7,219m). Annapurna III (7,555m) and Annapurna II (7.937m), most of it stands out, I barely Annapurna the other giants, Unlike of it. other peaks in front by hidden Annapurna I (8091m): The I (8091m): Annapurna in highest mountain tenth the world Latitude: 27° 51 Latitude: 1 2

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 21 The conquest of Annapurna I was remark- via Tibet. Even before the team arrived able in many ways. For a start, the French in Nepal, they had given themselves two climbers spent weeks just trying to locate options: Climb Dhaulagiri or Annapurna. the mountain as it was still unexplored. Finding the former too difficult to climb, It was the first eight-thousander to be they turned their attention to the latter. climbed and even more remarkable was the fact that they did it on their first at- As we have seen over the years of climb- tempt. This was highly unusual as on most ing history, the best time to climb in the mountains of this size, many exploratory Himalaya is May. However, by the time teams went up to study the possible Herzog and his team were heading up to routes up to the summit. Only after the summit it was the beginning of June. several expeditions had tried and failed Having received news that the monsoon would one eventually succeed. was to begin from 5th June, they were racing against time and made the summit When Annapurna I was climbed, Nepal just two days before the weather changed was still under Rana rule and the country for the worse. Herzog and was strictly closed to outsiders. The climb reached the top on 3rd June via the north made , the expedition face. The two summiteers paid a heavy leader very famous, this being the first price for the climb, losing their toes and eight-thousander to be climbed. No expe- some fingers to frostbite. Herzog would ditions had taken to the mountains from not climb any major peak following this Nepal before this team and so sherpas historic climb. The first Nepali climber had to be hired from from to summit this peak was Sonam Wolang where many expeditions were launched Sherpa on 13th October 1977. Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:46 AM Winter and Summer Winter and Summer season Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty Spring season Autumn season 10,000/- 5,000/- 2,500/- One member memberTwo 25,000/- memberThree 40,000/- 48,000/- memberFour memberFive 12,500/- 56,000/- 20,000/-Six member 60,000/- 24,000/- member Seven 6,250/- 66,000/- additional 70,000/-Per 28,000/- 10,000/- member (An 30,000/- 12,000/- expedition team maxi- have may 33,000/- 14,000/- 35,000/- of 15 mem- mum bers) 15,000/- 16,500/- 17,500/- Member of the Member of the mountaineering expedition Royalty for Mountaineering Expeditions Notice -1: Schedule-4 (Relating to sub rule 1of Rule 4) (a) 8,848m. (Sagarmatha) Everest Mt. Name of Peak: (South East Ridge) Normal route Route: All mountaineering expeditions intending to climb an eight-thousander or any other eight-thousander or any intending to climb an expeditions All mountaineering Aviation. & Civil Tourism the Ministry from to obtain permission of mountain have and the route follow the expedition has to strictly obtained, Once a permit has been of Nepal. the Government issued by in the permit as prescribed the regulation mountaineering for team which has obtained a permit A mountaineering expedition of Nepal. the Government by Officer appointed to include a Liaison shall have The amount obtaining permit. before to deposit garbage deposit fee An expedition team has which is refundable US$ 500 to US$ 4000, to mountains ranging from varies according the garbage accumulated. of the clearance evidence shows after the expedition team Some important Mountaineering Rules and Mountaineering Some important Regulations 3 2

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 23 (b) Name of Peak: Mt. Everest (Sagarmatha) 8848m Route: Except normal route Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 15,000/- 7,500/- 3,750/- Two member 21,000/- 10,500/- 5,250/- Three member 27,000/- 13,500/- 6,750/- Four member 33,000/- 17,500/- 8,750/- Five member 39,000/- 19,500/- 9,750/- Six member 45,000/- 22,500/- 11,250/- Seven member 50,000/- 25,000/- 12,500/- Per additional 10,000/- 5,000/- 2,500/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of 15 members)

(c) Name of Peak: Other mountains having more than 8,000m (Except Mt. Everest)

Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer sea- son One member 5,000/- 2,500/- 1,250/- Two member 6,000/- 3,000/- 1,500/- Three member 7,000/- 3,500/- 1,750/- Four member 8,000/- 4,000/ 2,000/- Five member 8,500/- 4,250/- 2,125/- Six member 9,000/- 4,500/- 2,250/- Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

24

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:48:55 AM Winter and Winter and Summer season Winter and and Winter sea- Summer son Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty Spring season Autumn season 500/- 400/- 200/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) royalty Mountaineering Spring season season Autumn 1,500/- 1,000/- 500/- Member of the Member of the mountaineering expedition One member memberTwo 2,000/- memberThree 2,400/- memberFour 2,800/- memberFive 3,200/- 1,000/-Six member 1,200/- 3,600/- member Seven 1,400/- additional Per 3,800/- 4,000/-member (An ex- 1,600/- 500/- pedition team may 600/- 1,800/- of maximum have 700/- 15 members) 1,900/- 2,000/- 800/- 900/- 950/- 1,000/- Seven member Seven additional Per 10,000/-member (An ex- pedition team may of maximum have 15 members) 5,000/- 2,500/- Member of the of the Member mountaineering expedition (d) 7501-7999m height. Mountains having of Peak: Name 5 2

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 25 (e) Name of Peak: Mountains having 7000-7500m height Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 1,500/- 750/- 375/- Two member 1,800/- 900/- 450/- Three member 2,100/- 1,050/- 525/- Four member 2,400/- 1,200/- 600/- Five member 2,600/- 1,300/- 650/- Six member 2,800/- 1,400/- 700/- Seven member 3,000/- 1,500/- 750/- Per additional 400/- 250/- 150/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of 15 members)

(f) Name of Peak: Mountains having 6501-6999m height.( Except Mt. Ama- dablam) Member of the Mountaineering royalty (In US $) mountaineering Spring season Autumn season Winter and expedition Summer season One member 1,000/- 500/- 250/- Two member 1,200/- 600/- 300/- Three member 1,400/- 700/- 350/- Four member 1,600/- 800/- 400/- Five member 1,800/- 900/- 450/- Six member 1,900/- 950/- 475/- Seven member 2,000/- 1,000/- 500/- Per additional 300/- 200/- 100/- member (An ex- pedition team may have maximum of

Himalayan Peaks of Nepal 15 members)

26

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9 0 0 2 / 7 / 55/7/2009 1:49:03 AM Winter and Winter and Summer season Winter and Summer Summer Winter and season 2,000/-300/- 1,000/- 200/- Mountaineering royalty (In US $) royalty Mountaineering Autumn Spring and season Mountaineering royalty (In US $) Mountaineering royalty Spring season Autumn season 200/- 100/- 50/-

Per additional member member additional Per (An expedition team may of 15 maximum have members) Member of the Member of the mountaineering expedition One member memberTwo 400/- memberThree 500/- memberFour 600/- memberFive 700/-Six member 200/- 800/- member Seven 250/- 300/- additional Per 900/- 1,000/-member (An ex- 350/- pedition team may 100/- of maximum have 400/- 125/- 15 members) 500/- 150/- 450/- 175/- 200/- 250/- 225/- Member of the moun- Member of expedition taineering One member memberTwo memberThree memberFour 1,000/- memberFive 1,200/- 1,400/-Six Member member Seven 1,600/- 1,800/- 500/- 1,900/- 600/- 700/- 800/- 900/- 950/- (h) less than 6500m height. Mountains having Name of Peak: (g) Amadablam(6812m.) Mt. Name of Peak: 7 2

d d n i . t e l k o o BBooklet.indd 27 Note: Above revised royalty will be effec- Notice -3 tive from 2065/04/01 (16th July, 2008). According to the decision (dated Notice -2: 2065/02/22B.S.) made by the Government of Nepal (Secretary Level) the definition The mountaineering royalty has been of the season is hereby clarified;

totally waived to those mountains situ- Q Spring ( March, April, May)

ated on mid western and Far western Q Summer ( June, July, August)

development regions of Nepal for coming Q Autumn ( September, October, No five years. vember)

Q Winter ( December, January, Febru ary) Himalayan Peaks of Nepal

28 Lake in gokyo, Everest

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Published by : Nepal Tourism Board Himalayan Peaks of Bhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal P. O. Box: 11018 Fax: 977-1-4256910 Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229 NEPAL E-mail: [email protected] (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m)

Nepal Tourism Board www.welcomenepal.com

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