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ISSUEISSUE 2727 -- AUTUMNAUTUMN 20022002 £2.50 £2.50

Wet & Wild River Crossings High & Light Himalaya Lightweight Ready To Escape? Adventure Yearbook 2003 Breaking Barriers The International Meet

PORTLAND UPDATE MOUNTAIN ECOLOGY EXCLUSIVE ACTIVPURSUITS CD OFFER STANAGE • LIFE ASSURANCE • MOUNTAIN BOOTS • ACCESS UPDATES

CONTENTS FEATURES 14 Feet First Stuart Ingram and Berghaus give an introduction to hiking boots. 20 Breaking Barriers Jamie Andrews reports on the hectic and diverse world of the BMC International Meet. 26 Wild and Wet River crossings - how to reach the other bank, with Plas y Brenin. 30 Jurassic Park Portland is now a World Heritage site. Our 14 20 agent Bond, Clare Bond takes a look at what that means for climbers. 34 Escape to Adventure The stunning Adventure Yearbook 2003. 38 The Right Stuff As the infamous Stanage guide nears completion, resident wordsmith Niall Grimes reflects on this favourite gritstone playground. 40 Over the Odds? Are you paying to much for life insurance as an outdoor enthusiast? Let us help. 26 42 Flower Power Barbara Jones examines how Alpine flowers are staging a comeback in Cwm Idwal.

44 High and Light Stephen Venables and Ken Wilson look at the history of lightweight Himalayan expeditions, from early skirmishes to super-alpine traverses. 48 The Famous Five How the Helly Hansen National Mountaineer- ing Exhibition team picked classic peaks for John Peel. 44 READERS' OFFERS REGULARS

32 Win Anquet Maps 5 Letters Win some great interactive OS maps on CD - 6 News you'll never have to fold a map again! 10 Access News 32 Discount to Activpursuits 24 ACT update The new online magazine. 51 MLTB 52 Agenda 36 The Adventure Package 53 Events Get 3 great adventure books for the price of 2. ON THE COVER 60 Last thoughts Debbie Birch on the classic 36 Himalayan Lightweight Western Front, E3 5c, Almscliff. A rare chance to update your mountain library. Credit: Alex Messenger

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27 3

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 3 12/09/2002, 11:57 AM FOREWORD

Welcome to issue 27 Summit is the membership magazine of the British Mountaineering Council. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers and the freedom to enjoy their activities. The primary work of the BMC is to:

Negotiate access improvements and promote cliff and mountain 40 Culture Shock conservation. Promote and advise on good practice, facilities, training and equipment. Support events and specialist programmes including youth and excellence. Provide services and information 34 The new yearbook for members.

BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500 e-mail: [email protected] A MESSAGE FROM THE BMC PRESIDENT www.thebmc.co.uk ’ve just returned from three weeks of glorious sunshine in Tuolumne Meadows. Camping at 8,500ft, swimming in crystal clear lakes and climb EDITORIAL Iing on perfect granite with a choice of single pitch sport climbs or multi Contributions for Summit should be sent to pitch trad climbs. There’s a mix of well protected cracks and bold exciting the Editor Alex Messenger at the above address slabs, and hundreds of square miles of some of the best Alpine mountain or [email protected]. Every care is taken walking and backpacking country I’ve ever experienced. A true lift for the of materials sent for publication, however spirit and even more welcome because it meant a complete break from these are submitted at the sender's risk. meetings and never-ending BMC politics.

PUBLISHING I must admit I didn’t think much about32 the ACT BMC Photo whilst comp I was away but the Gill Wootton holiday did bring me right back in touch with what I believe to be the true and Display Advertising basic values of our sport and some of the issues the BMC works towards in this Jane Harris country. First and foremost the freedom to choose to climb where I wanted in the Classified style I wanted. Without the vision of that great Victorian Scottish naturalist John Muir, Yosemite’s beauty would have been irrevocably destroyed and what did Paula Taylor become the world’s first true National Park would have become a vast timber Tel: 01536 382500 yard littered with mines and quarries. Fax: 01536 382501 To decide upon and get to the climbs I used the local guidebook, not as slick and professional as those we are used to in Britain but cheap and quite ad- PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY equate for a visiting Brit. And I felt reasonably safe being protected by our excel- Greenshires Publishing lent BMC insurance scheme. Telford Way, Kettering And so, to me, these are three of the core aspects of the BMC's work that I, Northants, NN16 8UN personally, value most; Access, Information and Insurance. Of course there are Tel: 01536 382500 many other facets of our work that we generally take for granted. The work of our Technical Committee for instance, tirelessly working behind the scenes to test Neither the BMC nor Greenshires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers ropes, helmets and all the other equipment upon which we constantly rely. Our are advised to take reasonable care when responding to Training Advisory Group, striving to ensure that effective advice and guidance is adverts. available to beginners and clubs (student clubs in particular at the moment are struggling because of the litigious fears of the Universities). RISK & RESPONSIBILITY The BMC has become an even broader church over the last decade with many Readers of Summit are reminded that new members entering the sport via indoor walls and competitions giving oppor- climbing, hill walking and tunities for much younger people to participate, hence the need for our Youth mountaineering are activities with a Committee. Similarly climbing walls and the relative safety and convenience of danger of personal injury or death. newly developed sport climbing venues probably contributes to older climbers Participants in these activities should be staying active longer. Fairer Equity policies have given greater opportunities for aware of and accept these risks and be disabled participation and this year's International meet at Plas y Brenin was a responsible for their own actions and huge success with some awe inspiring performances. Read on to find out more, involvement. The BMC publishes a wide and as they say in Tuolumne – enjoy. range of safety and good practice advice and provides training opportunities for members.

Dave Musgrove, President.

1 (ABOVE) What's got 3 legs, 3 /2 hands and can climb VS? Well Jamie Andrew, Dave Musgrove and Ivan German - seen here at the foot of Bloody Chimney, VS, during the International Meet. See page 20 for more! Credit: D.Musgrove Jnr.

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to me to be unanswerable. But it also seems to me to apply equally well to PRIZE LETTER WINNER nylon brushing and chalk. Granted, these activities cause no physical damage to the rock, but they never- KILIMANJARO - SLOW DOWN! theless diminish the challenge - and As an expedition doctor who has been involved in organised treks to moun- chalk makes a rock face look even tains in East Africa I would like to add my support to the BMC’ s comments worse than wire brushing does. I ap- that, Kili too quickly is potentially life threatening and definitely no fun. preciate that, taken to its logical con- According to the most recent figures, Mt Kilimanjaro attracts over 4000 clusion, this line of reasoning would trekkers each year, but while 90% attempt the standard Marangu route, less lead to the abolition of boots and ropes, than half are estimated to reach the summit, despite the presence of com- but the fact is that the pioneers did fortable huts, clear paths, short walking days, energetic porters and dry wear boots, whereas they didn’t use weather. From my experience the answer to this high failure rate lies in the chalk. enormous number of trekkers who attempt the route in only five days and subsequently suffer from Acute Mountain Sickness (AMS) along the way. Tony Ayres Between 1 and 5% of AMS sufferers go on to develop High Altitude Pulmo- Winchester nary (HAPE). This condition has been shown to be fatal in up to 50% of trekkers if left untreated and is the commonest cause of death at high HIGH HYPNOTHERAPHY altitude. I was unfortunately involved in the treatment of a woman who died I am a clinical hypnotherapist, and from HAPE on Kilimanjaro, and around the world events like this keep hap- leave soon for Ecuador to check pening. Last spring, Dr Alan Gianotti evacuated 22 people with HAPE from whether self-hypnosis can alleviate the the Pheriche Rescue Post on the Everest Camp Trek, whilst 14 climbers were debilitating symptoms of altitude sick- evacuated from Plaza Argentina on Cerro Aconcagua during the 2001 sum- ness. Four climbers, including a doc- mer season. As the most popular route on any of the “seven summits”, the tor, will ascend four volcanoes ranging Marangu Route is the first experience of altitude for many trekkers. By join- from 13,500 feet to almost 19,500 ing organised treks that acclimatise slowly and reading something from the feet. I believe that as the subconscious wide range of websites and books dedicated to AMS this trek can be the first mind controls the body’s breathing, of many adventures, not the last. using self-hypnosis techniques to “pro- gramme” the subconscious one can Jeremy Windsor, London increase its oxygen intake. This can be achieved by improving the volume of ADRENALINE TURN-OFF have towards the people they take air intake whilst at the same time in- Saturday 13th April, a gloriously sunny outdoors, and trust that the current creasing mental calmness and physi- day in Glen Nevis. On Pine Wall crag outdoor education community does not cal relaxation which should minimise we were so happy to be climbing we generally condone this practice. the effect of the altitude. I will report even managed to forgive the noisy back the findings, and if they are posi- youth group abseiling on SW Buttress, Christine Watkins tive I would set up a more scientific the crag next to us. I have never been West Dunbartonshire piece of research into this theory. If at ease with abseiling as an activity in there is anyone with experience in this its own right, as opposed to part of the HELMET LIP SERVICE? area or has a view as to whether such whole climbing experience, but we ig- Issue 26 is another informative read, techniques can help I would be inter- nored them, engrossed in our own and page 50 gives us readers more ested in hearing from them. pleasure until we heard one of the two important information regarding helmet instructors shout down to their stu- choice, with the closing statement of Andrew Moir dents, “OK, who wants a race?” There the article declaring “any helmet is West Sussex then began more than an hour of ab- better than no helmet”. Therefore I find seil racing. The participants would set it unbelievable that in the very same off to cheers and encouragement from issue the covers of the BMC guide- WRITE US A LETTER AND WIN THIS their mates and to shouts of, “faster”, books On Peak Rock and Stanage are GREAT BERGHAUS EXTREM SAC! “jump” and “go on you can beat him” shown featuring climbers without hel- from the instructors. We watched si- mets. If the use of helmets is encour- Write in to Summit and you could win lently as the activity progressed to aged by the BMC then surely you must this great Berghaus Extrem Climb 32 marine style forward abseiling - still in practice what you preach – do the litre sac. This issue Jeremy Windsor is racing pairs. Maybe the trend for climbers shown have craniums con- the lucky receipient, might come in “adrenaline sports” and programmes structed out of something other than handy on another Kili trip! like Gladiators means instructors want skin and bone, or is it just another sad to give their students these types of fashion statement? Are the BMC really Next issue...it could experiences, but I think that crags and supporting helmet use or merely filling be you. Just email mountains are not the place to do so, the latest issue with lip service? [email protected], and anyway is our sport not exciting or post to BMC, enough already? I wonder what these Simon Anderson 177-179 Burton young people learnt from this - certainly Manchester Road, Manchester, not a lot about climbing, safety nor M20 2BB. love of the hills. I am not a killjoy but NO CHALK do know that young people can have I’ve only just read issue 25, and thor- fun whilst being introduced to climbing oughly agree with the sentiments ex- and abseiling in a responsible manner. pressed against sculpting and wire I hope these instructors may rethink brushing. The argument “if you can’t their practice and the responsibility they do it as it is, leave it to others” seems

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 5 04/09/2002, 10:17 AM LATEST NEWS ACT now for '03 Foot and Mouth - Lessons Learnt? The final report of the "Lessons learned" inquiry has now been published, and examines the official handling of the FMD epidemic and makes future recom- mendations based on the lessons that have been learned. Unsurprisingly, many of the 80 recommendations coming out of the inquiry relate to animal disease avoidance and future outbreak strategies. However, several points are made in the report that reinforce the views expressed by the BMC in its submission to the inquiry;

CLOSURES: the report acknowledges that "…the widespread closure of foot- paths, with no straightforward mechanism for reopening them, was a mistake." (p. 9). The efforts of the BMC and other organisations to advise members to abide by footpath closures is noted as is the severe impact of the countryside closure. The BMC worked hard to negotiate for reopening and it is hoped that more effort would go into establishing mechanisms for this in the future. COMMUNICATION: the report notes that communications were poor in many instances and describes the problems that resulted. In line with the BMC recom- How can you organize your life, get mendation, the need for an effective communication strategy backed by accu- the right information, be inspired for rate and up to date information gets a high priority in the report. adventure, and help preserve the SCALE: the inability of the contingency plans to cope with an outbreak on the outdoor environment? Well that’s scale of the 2001 FMD epidemic is highlighted. Much of the report seeks to simple - just invest in a copy of the address these shortcomings. Adventure Yearbook 2003. One striking statistic is that the cost of the outbreak to tourism is estimated as The Adventure Yearbook is an inspira- being up to £3.2billion, whereas the cost to agriculture and the food industry tional diary packed full of stunning im- totals £525million. This drives home the much greater impact that was made on ages and outdoor information. Featur- tourism.In some ways the publication of this report will draw a line under last ing 60 of the best adventure photo- years trauma, many will hope so. However one thing is clear, the importance of graphs from around the world contrib- tourism to the rural economy and the place of walking and climbing in this is now uted by leading lights such as John much more widely appreciated by policy makers for the countryside. This can Beatty, Ray Wood, Chris Bonington, only be of benefit to recreational users. See www.fmd-lessonslearned.org.uk for Andy Cave, and Cubby Cuthbertson, more details on the inquiry and report. plus an inspirational foreword by Paul Pritchard. But it’s more than just a very stylish diary, since all BMC proceeds go direct to ACT - the Access and Con- Castle Climbing Centre joins ACT servation Trust, promoting access and The Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) would like to welcome the Castle Climbing conservation today for future climbers, Centre as a new member. The Castle became the first wall to join the list of hill-walkers and mountaineers. corporate members, demonstrating its commitment to the wider context in which climbing takes place. Patrick Bird, manager of the Castle said: “We recognise The yearbook is available now! climbing walls bring new people into the sport, and as a result we promote ethical Priced just £14 or £12 to BMC mem- and environmentally sympathetic use of the outdoor crags and mountains. Any bers, see page 34 for full details. contribution which assists access initiatives and conservation practices can only have a positive impact for all climbers.” We welcome his sentiments, and hope that other climbing walls will follow suit. Lowe Alpine help ACT The ACT Art and Photography competi- tion in the previous issue was a great Kendal Film Festival 2002 set to be best yet success (although we do admit that we Kendal is back on the 9th – 17th No- Welsh Rock will be explored in a four- printed the winning picture back- vember and is even bigger than ever part evening lecture programme with wards!), and the BMC would like to with a superb nine day programme cel- Ken Wilson, John Redhead, Simon thank Lowe Alpine for stepping in to ebrating the International Year of the Panton and Leo Houlding. Then on the give some great prizes to the winners. Mountains as part of the Cumbrian closing Sunday you’ll be able to hear The lucky winner now has a Fitzroy Mountain Festival 2002. With 50+ accounts from expeditions supported pack. New for this year, the Fitzroy is a films, 18 top lectures, photographic by the BMC, MEF and Nick Estcourt superb all-round technical mountain- and art exhibitions, the A5 British Awards, and Ed February talking about eering pack for the serious mountain- Bouldering Championship 2002/03 Africa and the politics of climbing. eer. Second prize was an old favourite and more, this is an event not to miss. Weekend visitors will also be able to revised for 2002, the Cragsack is a For film fans there’s a great line up of catch the first round of the A5 Series simple, slim, yet highly practical and new releases, a programme of golden British Bouldering Championship, durable sack, great for stuffing full of oldies, the UK premiere of David hosted by the BMC. The Festival has a your day’s kit, slinging on your back Breashears’ new IMAX Kilimanjaro range of tickets from individual lecture and heading for the hills. And not for- along with three other IMAX films at the tickets at £6 to passes at £45. This getting third prize, a Dryflo Zone T- Rheged Centre, plus a programme of year, each lecture will have its own shirt. The Dryflo Zone is an exciting Extreme Ski and Snow Board films. A ticket so book early to avoid the disap- new base-layer, unique to Lowe Alpine, star studded lecturer list will celebrate pointment. Order online at a must-have for sweaty bodies every- the International Year of the Mountains, www,mountainfilm.co.uk or phone where! To find out more about these and 50 years on from the first ascent 01539 725133 and other Lowe Alpine products visit of Cenotaph Corner, the History of their website at www.lowealpine.co.uk

6 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

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Chance of a lifetime for 2003? If you’re planning an expedition or re- search study next year why not con- sider applying for the Winston Church- ill Traveling Fellowships? These are unique grants given to UK citizens from all walks of life to undertake study projects overseas related to their trade, craft, or profession. Categories for 2003 include Adventure, Exploration and Expedition leadership. For further information see www.wcmt.org.uk Savage Slit, V6, Northern Corries. Credit: Ian Parnell BMC signs Racial Equality Charter Ready for the white stuff? On 26th June the BMC signed the Ra- cial Equality Charter for Sport - a joint Get the skills you need for this winter season, from initiative of Sport England and the hillwalking essentials to performance climbing tips. Commission for Racial Equality. BMC Chief Executive Dave Turnbull said, ’by Conville Winter Courses BMC Winter Lectures signing the Charter the BMC is making Want to learn more about winter moun- In partnership with Lowe Alpine. a public commitment to remove racial taineering? Apply now for a place on Supported by BUSA, Mountain Training discrimination in our sport - the BMC one of the six Winter Conville courses Trust and Trail Magazine encourages all training providers, clubs, to be held in January '03. These walls, the outdoor media etc to do their Six interactive lectures illustrating the courses are designed to give young bit and ensure the success of the Char- skills and techniques involved in win- climbers a sound introduction to the ter’. For full details see the website. ter walking, climbing and mountaineer- techniques needed for snow and ice. ing. Get a head start this winter by This includes the use of crampons and Women Mountains Words discussing your objectives as well as ice-axes, belaying and rope work, ava- The “women who write about the out- being introduced to exciting new loca- lanche assessment. The courses are doors” are still going strong, and have tions and itineraries. Pick up valuable subsidised by the Jonathan Conville just published their second anthology. gems of information on winter skills Memorial Trust, the BMC and the Scot- Their next get together is on the 18th- from Plas y Brenin’s Helen Teasdale tish Mountain Trust. These two-day 20th October at Lineham Farm, Eccup, and the vast experience of IFMGA courses are fully residential, based in near Leeds, with Audrey Salkeld, the Guide Andy Perkins. There will also be Ardenbeg in the Cairngorms. Applica- highly experienced mountaineering opportunities to quiz our experts and tion forms and further information are writer as guest speaker. This is your try on equipment during the interval. available from the BMC office or chance to share your writing in friendly website. Deadline for applications is 5th Nov - Liverpool workshops whether you scale great the 15th November. Liverpool Hope University College heights or merely enjoy the view. For 6th Nov - Sheffield further information email Judith Brown High performance Sheffield Hallam University on [email protected] 7th Nov - Newcastle Glenmore Lodge will once again host University of Northumbria South West Climbs Reprint the Scottish Winter Climbing Perform- 12th Nov - Southampton South West Climbs, the classic selected ance Seminar Series. Hooking, Psych- University of Southampton guide to Cornwall, Devon, Somerset, ing and Drinking on the 25 – 27th 13th Nov - London Dorset, and Jersey has been reprinted October has lectures and practical ses- University College London with some new colour photos. It’s been sions looking at developing the physi- 14th Nov - Birmingham out of print for 9 months, so this news cal, mental and technical aspects of University of Birmingham should be welcomed by all those in winter climbing, for all levels from new- search of sun, sea, and cream teas comer to performer. Later on the 22 – Lectures start at 6.45pm. Bar avail- this Autumn. Available from all good 23rd February the 3rd Scottish Win- able at some venues. Purchase tick- climbing shops or the BMC online shop. ter Climbing Performance Seminar ets in advance from the BMC or buy will be run. Based at the Lodge this is on the door. Priced £4 to BMC mem- Somervell Sketches a hill based, ‘hands on’ weekend, and bers / £5.50 non-members. If buying With reference to the comment in the has attracted the great and the good on the door, bring your membership or article “High Summer” in Summit 26 of Scottish winter climbing in the past. mountaineering club card along. Group concerning the Somervell sketches So, dust off your tools, and check out bookings - for every 10 people you being “hidden from view in London” www.glenmorelodge.org.uk/ book, one person goes free (pre- the Alpine Club have asked us to point winterseminar bookings only). De- out that it is their policy to loan paint- for further tailed venue infor- ings, books, artifacts and other treas- informa- mation and maps ured possessions for exhibition wher- tion. on www.thebmc ever possible. In addition to extensive .co.uk further loans to the Helly Hansen Na- tional Mountaineering Exhibition, the Alpine Club has also made important loans not only within the UK, but also in Continental Europe and the USA in the recent past.

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Alpine Lecturer required Kilnsey bolts An exciting opportunity has arisen for a It seems that the recent retrobolting of lecturer at the BMC Alpine Lecture Se- some routes around and including Bio- ries. This annual event consisting of 6 logical Need at Kilnsey hasn’t quite evening lectures to be held in March worked as intended. On 28th June, a 2003 is always well attended and aims climber working the route sat on the to educate and inspire both novice and fourth bolt, and narrowly avoided a experienced alpinists alike. If you are ground fall after it (and a lower bolt) highly motivated with an extensive Al- came away from the rock. After com- Malcolm and Cristian Core (ITA) the pine record over many years, and have posing himself, the climber checked current European champion, Chamo- experience of public speaking contact some other bolts close by and found nix. Credit: Wills Young. Ian Hey at the BMC, by 14th October. that many of them, including the be- lays, could be turned by hand using a Call for British ice women! karabiner as a lever. Visitors should ex- Malcolm Powers it up Francoise Call is putting together a ercise extreme caution in this area un- The British Team has had an excel- team to explore ice routes in the North til the issue is resolved. The BMC Tech- lent start to the season. Members of Norway this winter. She would be nical Committee is currently investigat- of the Junior Team competed in Eu- especially keen to hear from women. ing in the incident which seems to be a ropean Youth Cups in Imst and Arco, To find out more contact her on result of incorrectly set resin. the Boulderers have been to Fiera di [email protected] Primiero, Lecco and Chamonix, and the leading Team have been in Cha- Scottish Hostels for £5 monix. Good results were achieved The Scottish Youth Hostels Association in Imst, with a final place for Jemma (SYHA) are running a special offer to Powell, and Chamonix with a semi celebrate the International Year of the Obituaries: final place for Lucy Creamer. But the Mountains. Over the weekend of 4th – best set of results came from 5th October you can stay at Braemar, John Neill Malcolm Smith, a fifth at the World Crianlarich, Glen Nevis, Glencoe, Killin, Earlier this year, the climbing world and Cup in Fiera, a fantastic first at Loch Lochy, Torridon, or Ullapool for just the BMC mourned the loss of one of Lecco and a fifth in the European £5pp/pn with free SYHA membership its more influential figures when John Championships in Chamonix. And included in the deal. Pre-booking is ad- Neill died peacefully at his home in with only three rounds of the World vised, visit www.syha.org.uk, or call Falmouth in May. John is probably best Cup left Malc is currently in first 0870 155 3255. remembered as BMC President (1985- place… 1988), but this was just the culmina- Test Pilots Needed! tion of a long career dedicated to the Competition dates This Autumn, Haglofs, Scandanavia’s outdoors. Along with George Band and The dates have just been confirmed leading outdoor brand launches it’s first Alan Blackshaw, John was a part of Lord for this season’s A5 Series British ever European “test pilot” scheme in Hunt’s Alpine Climbing Group expedi- Bouldering Championships and the Troll conjunction with Gore. 50 chosen “test tion to the Caucasus in 1958 - the British Indoor Climbing Champion- pilots” will be selected and receive first expedition to climb inside the Iron ships. products for testing throughout the win- Curtain after WWII. A member of the ter. If you’re a serious outdoor enthu- Climbers Club since 1945, he acted A5 Series BBC ‘02/03 siast and feel that you can contribute as archivist and journal editor at a time Seniors to product design and development, when this publication was a vital re- Round 1 - Nov 17th then apply today to become a Haglofs source for new route information. As The Kendal Mountain Film Festival “test pilot” by filling in the application one of the original representatives of Round 2 - Nov 30th form on www.haglofs.se the BMC Committee for Wales, John Alien Rock 2, Edinburgh, also played a key role in securing ac- Round 3 - Dec 14th Welsh Huts - Business Rates cess to nearly all the major crags in The Foundry, Sheffield Clubs with huts in Wales may claim North Wales. His attention to detail re- Juniors mandatory rural rate relief at sulted in near flawless guidebooks to Round 1 - March 9th 50% in respect of business rates lev- Tremadog, Cloggy, the Pass, Bosigran, Broughton Recreation Centre, Salford, ied on their properties under a Welsh Idwal, Chair Ladder and the Carnedds. Round 2 - March 15/16th Assembly scheme. The scheme ap- John’s enthusiasm and dedication rep- Ordnance Survey Outdoors Show, NEC plies to businesses with a rateable resented a huge contribution to the value of less than £6,000 which are climbing world and he will be sadly Troll BICC ‘02/03 located in rural settlements with a missed. Round 1 - Jan 25th, venue tbc population of less than 3,000 Round 2 - Feb 8th, venue tbc people. If you have not received this Round 3 - Feb 22nd, Awesome Walls, relief you should make a claim to the Johnnie Lees Liverpool. relevant local authority. As Summit goes to press, we learnt that Johnnie Lees passed away on the On Peak Rock Rescue 15th August. Johnnie was a pioneer of Welcome to the Ians In the On Peak Rock reprint, the Moun- mountain rescue in the UK and earned The BMC has recently had two addi- tain Rescue advice is missing. In the the George Medal for bravery in Brit- tions to the officer team, bringing the event of an accident requiring the as- ish mountaineering – reckoned to be complement back up to full strength sistance of Mountain Rescue, dial 999 the only honour of its kind. A full obitu- again. Ian Fenton is the new Youth and and ask for ‘POLICE - MOUNTAIN RES- ary will appear in the next edition of Equity Officer, whilst Ian Hey has been CUE’. Summit. appointed Technical, Safety and Inter- national Officer.

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ACCESS NEWS

ral gear placements (i.e. nuts, cams, Willersley: access still unresolved trees) at or near the stance. After almost a year of problems at Willersley the BMC managed to secure a meeting with the landowners, the Arkwright Society, to discuss the prob- Cheddar Gorge lems. The origins of the problems are that the owners of the Rocks, the The local access representative Chris Arkwright Society, believe the BMC, or someone on behalf of the BMC, to Newton-Goverd has managed to secure have stated that the Rocks were no longer safe for climbing or abseiling. year round access to the following on National Trust land in the Gorge: The The Arkwright Society say they were not informed of this opinion by the BMC Wave, the Tsunami, Arch Rock, Stepped but that it was confirmed by someone at the BMC when the Arkwright Society Wall, Overshoot Wall, ‘Absolutely Amaz- telephoned on 19 July 2001. ing Climb II’ and Hounds Bluff. Normal On its part the BMC strenuously denies having made any such statement, or restrictions apply elswhere. being aware that such a statement had been made by anyone acting officially or unofficially on its behalf. The BMC is however aware that a local climbing instruc- Wye Valley – fencing tor who had been asked to supervise a group abseil event at Willersley Castle Woodcroft Quarry has been bought by Rocks declined to supervise such an event on any natural crag for environmental a company who are seeking planning and ecological reasons, but offered instead to do so from a dedicated man- permission for a leisure centre. Despite made structure. This follows BMC advice on good practice for such activities, reassurances that they would not in- though decisions on any event always rest with the responsible instructor. hibit climbing access, they have been The origins are, however, no longer of direct relevance. The current position is told by their insurers that they must that the Arkwright Society is concerned about rock stability at Willersley and its fence off the quarry. They plan to fence potential liabilities in the event of an accident. The Arkwright Society is therefore the entrance to Woodcroft Quarry from reluctant to permit climbing without suitable reassurances from the BMC. The the Offa’s Dyke footpath. Access to Fly BMC maintains that climbing is a risk activity and that participants must accept Wall will still be possible from the Easy all risks and liabilities on an individual basis. The situation remains unresolved Way Down. Damage to the fence could and in the meantime it is up to individuals to decide whether or not to visit the lead to no access for climbing. crag. Anyone considering using Willersley for group abseils is advised to seek an alternative venue. The BMC is still in dialogue with the Arkwright Society in a WALES mutual attempt to resolve these issues. Llanberis Ski Dome A consortium of local businesses and diameter), do not correspond to any an Australian firm (Ski-Trac) plan to Area updates line and are apparently random – some build a £165m development near are less than two feet off the ground. Llanberis. Housed in Glyn Rhonwy LANCASHIRE It appears that these holes are noth- Quarry, a rotating disc ski slope will be ing to do with climbers, but please act the centrepiece, with a hotel and Grit Crampon Damage sensitively at this SSSI shops. This is currently awaiting plan- Someone has been wrecking Cadshaw ning permission, which depends on an Castle Rocks and White House Quarry Peak Line Project Environmental Impact Assessment. by climbing in crampons, we shouldn’t A first stage feasibility study into the The traffic impact is a major concern. have to say it but please STOP! re-opening of the Matlock-Buxton- Chinley rail link should begin in Sep- Range West PEAK DISTRICT tember. The BMC will continue to en- The last of the Range West briefings sure that our views are considered. for '02 has taken place and the Range Stanage – Ring Ouzel round up has opened (weekends) until January Five nests were found on the North Lees Horseshoe (Furness) Quarry '03. However, it is now possible to be estate, three were successful, and with Following a request from the BMC, the briefed by arrangement in groups of 5 two nests at Burbage North a total of Peak District National Park Authority is or more – contact RSM Kevin Bradley 19 young fledged. It seems that early negotiating with the multiple land in- at The Castlemartin Range (01646 morning and evenings are crucial times terests to secure access for climbing. 662287). Recorded information about when the Ring Ouzel’s need peace. One tenure has recently changed firing times on Range East is available Also, it appears dogs are a major cause hands, this covers all of Main Wall LH, on 01646 662367. of disturbance to the birds. Keeping all the Chocolate Blancmange area dogs away from nesting areas may well plus the land above and below these YORKSHIRE prevent future calls for total closure of areas. There is currently no official Stanage during nesting season. access to this part of the quarry. Yorkshire Dales The Yorkshire Dales National Park Au- Gibb Tor / Baldstones SOUTH WEST thority is advertising for candidates to Staffordshire Wildlife Trust is clearing apply for places on the Yorkshire Dales the forest and returning the land to Avon Gorge Fixed Gear Local Access Forum. If you are inter- moor. As a result there will be tempo- High July issue reported on the out- ested in getting involved in access is- rary footpath diversion notices over the come of the Avon Gorge fixed gear sues in the Dales then contact the BMC coming years to ensure safety during open meeting held on 24th April in Bris- office. the operations. Please note that you tol. Concerns have been expressed should not go directly from Gibb Tor to that the report did not accurately re- For the latest access info on Baldstones or vice versa. flect the resolution of the open meet- ing. Please note that fixed pegs at be- more than 600 crags in Rubicon Wall, Water-cum-Jolly lays should not be replaced by (resin) England and Wales - check English Nature have contacted the bolts unless they are seriously defec- out the Regional Access BMC to express concern about drilling tive and cannot be replaced with new Database (RAD) on at WCJ. The holes are large (18mm pegs and there are no adequate natu- www.thebmc.co.uk

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EQUIPMENT feet first An introduction to hiking boots by Stuart Ingram and Berghaus.

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 14 06/09/2002, 11:31 AM Hiking boots. Big clumpy sional boot fitting service going way be- yond those clunky Clarke’s foot meas- FEATURES thick leather boots with urers from your school shoe days. Ba- bits of steel in the sically, you need a fit (both in terms of Here are some of the more impor- length and width) so that there is no tant features to look for: bottom for stiffness and movement inside to cause blisters, but red laces to match your sufficient room in the toe area to pre- Padded ankle Cuffs – Soft padding socks. Unforgiving, vent bruising on downhill slopes. here can make all the difference to Other considerations will be the height comfort. t painful things that can of the ankle (can cause painful pres- be immersed in a sure) and the shape of the insoles. Locking lace hooks – Allows lacing Some people may require specially tension to vary between the top and Pennine bog, scraped up shaped insoles such as Superfeet to bottom of the boot, which can some- rocky scree slopes and correct the posture of the foot during times increase comfort. give you blisters the size walking and avoid excessive stress to the foot, ankle, knees and lower back. Dual Density Sole – The outer sole of a golf ball whilst This is most often caused by over pro- rubber is hard for durability and the themselves remaining nation or supination – an exaggeration upper layer is soft to provide impact of the foot’s natural rotation during absorbency. This is especially impor- stubbornly unscathed. walking – and can be identified by your tant if walking on hard paths and retailer. If your shoes wear excessively roads. EVA or other soft compounds Yes, we all know about hiking boots. to either side at the heel it’s likely that like PU can be used in the construc- Well, maybe this was the situation you suffer from this. tion to add to impact absorbency. twenty years ago but nowadays there’s a bewildering array of footwear to BUYING ADVICE Midsole or Shank – This will usually choose from for getting active in the It’s worth shopping around for differ- be made from nylon or fibreglass outdoors. From sports sandals through ent brands and taking your time over and is present within the sole to give to plastic boots; they all have their place this decision – it will affect you every stiffness and lateral rigidity. and ideal use, but what should you time you go out walking! Different look for in your first pair? manufacturers will suit different types of feet. Spend a lot of time getting CARE AND REPAIR END USE advice from different places and com- The first factor in choosing boots is to pare what they are saying with articles Never store the boots wet – this decide the main end use. Be honest in the outdoor press, instructional can lead to rotting. Equally impor- with yourself here. Although you may manuals or manufacturers catalogues. tant, never force-dry your boots (e.g. have Himalayan dreams, do you really Try boots on in the afternoon or in front of a fire) as this will ruin the need top of the range stiffened boots evening, as your feet naturally expand conditioning of the boot uppers and for your Lakeland rambles? There’s an slightly over the course of a day. When cause it to become dry, brittle and old adage that “a pound on the feet you have decided on a pair, take them rock hard. Instead, stuff them with equals ten on the back”, and heavy home and wear them around in the newspaper and allow to dry natu- boots tire you out and needlessly erode house for a few days before using them rally at room temperature. mountain paths. But equally don’t un- outside. This should identify any dis- derestimate what you can get away comfort which may develop into a real With leather boots clean and wax with. Mountain rescue statistics show problem on a long hike. Most retailers after every couple of uses, or if stor- that year-in, year-out the most com- will allow you to return the boots over ing long term. Use a recognised mon incident requiring a rescue is a this test period as long as they haven’t product specifically for hiking boots slip, trip or stumble – scenarios that been used outside. – your retailer will be able to advise. may well have been preventable with a careful choice of footwear. FABRIC OR LEATHER? With fabric boots, clean and re- Boots are generally aimed at a spe- There are a number of factors you proof with a proprietary spray after cific type of walking. The main differ- should consider before deciding every use. It is important to keep ence is in height at the ankle and stiff- whether you want boots made out of the exterior suede/cordura highly ness in the insole, which will determine leather or fabric. You may be limited water repellent to allow the breath- the flex of the boot - the more serious by your range of activity. For example, able liner (if present) to do its job. the walking, the higher and stiffer the if you are walking in winter, requiring boot required. If the end use will vary, crampon compatibility or do a lot of Consider a pair of waterproof gai- then buy for the more serious activity, rocky scrambling, then fabric boots are ters. Not only will they keep your feet and consider a second set of footwear eminently unsuitable. drier, they will also absorb some of for lower level walking. Boot are Generally, leather boots are tougher the abrasion that occurs, increasing broadly categorised into four groups, and more durable whilst fabric boots the lifetime of your boots. with most manufacturers adopting the are more breathable (cooler & lighter) ratings system shown overleaf. This and more comfortable. Leather is not Re-soling of boots once the rubber shows the suitability of each type for actually waterproof but it is very water has worn out is now possible with various activities, together with their resistant and thick leather with a good most models, and is considerably compatibility with crampons. tanning treatment will keep out water cheaper than buying a brand new all day long. pair. Most retailers can recommend COMFORT Fabric boots often incorporate a fully a good company. Once you have identified the right cat- waterproof and breathable lining, but egory for you, it’s time to get personal care must be taken in use to avoid (LEFT) Neil Gresham and Tim Emmett - a good fit is crucial for comfort. Spe- damaging this (a stone in your shoe, if battling through the snow in light- cialist retailers will recognise the im- left may puncture a lining). If visiting a weight winter boots. Credit: Ian Parnell portance of this and provide a profes-

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hot climate it may be worth consider- ing an unlined fabric boot for maximum BOOT - CRAMPON COMPATIBILITY GUIDE breathability. BOOTS CRAMPONS OTHER OPTIONS These days the traditional boot is not the only option for hiking, although we B0 Unsuitable for crampons. C1 A flexible walking crampon would always recommend boots from Most walking boots are designed attached with straps, with or a safety point of view. Other types of to flex for comfort and do not without front points. footwear simply don’t provide the sup- have sufficient lateral and port, protection and durability of a longitudinal rigidity in their C2 Articulated multi-purpose boot, but can have their uses in cer- midsole. Additionally the upper crampons with front points. tain situations. is often made of soft calf leather Attached with straps all round or or a combination of suede/fabric straps at the front (ideally with a Approach shoes – basically beefy train- which compresses easily under French ring system) and clip-on ers, these can be used for lighter hik- crampon straps c a u s i n g heel. ing on graded paths, but beware of the discomfort and cold feet. lack of ankle support and be prepared C3 Articulated climbing or fully for them to wear out fairly quickly! B1 Suitable for the easiest rigid technical crampon attached snow and ice conditions found by full clip-on system of toe bar X-training shoes – this includes all types when hill walking, using crampons and heel clip. of trail running, multi activity and more for emergency or for “event” footwear. Usually very light- crossing a short patch of snow or weight and fast drying, they are more Boots in the B3 category are aimed at fell runners and mountain ice, rather than setting initially ideal for C3 crampons and marathoners than hikers, but light- fitted for a full day's walk. They will also take C2 and C1. At weight enthusiasts may want to con- have a reasonably stiff flexing the other end of the spectrum sider them sole and the uppers provide a Bl boot could only be enough ankle and foot support recommended with a C1 Sports sandals – Not really recom- for traversing relatively steep crampon. mended for any kind of hiking, but can slopes. be very useful in hot climates. It should be stressed that this B2 A stiff flex boot with the is only a guide and should BOOTS AND CRAMPONS equivalent of a three quarter or be used as a supplement for Crampons are a set of metal spikes full shank midsole and a good advice from that can be fitted to boots, giving supportive upper made from high experienced shop staff, greater security when walking over quality leather (probably over snow and ice. To be suitable for use experienced mountaineers or 3mm thick). These boots designed mountain guides. with crampons, hiking boots need to for four season mountaineering, have a semi-stiffened midsole (allow- can be used all day with ing just a slight flex), a thick leather crampons, whilst easy alpine This version of the comparison upper and a high ankle for support terrain and easy Scottish snow table courtesy of Scarpa Boots against increased leverage – crampons and ice climbs can also be can add about an inch to your height. This type of boot is described by the covered. B1 category, are is the absolute mini- mum you must consider for use with B3 A technical boot regarded crampons. More advanced models will as “rigid” both in midsole and include fully stiffened soles, welts for upper. Used for mountaineering clip-on crampon bindings and higher and ice climbing. ankle profiles. At the top of the spec- trum are fully rigid technical climbing (RIGHT) Neil Gresham using B3 boots. These are designed specifically technical boots and well fitting for hard mixed or ice climbing but can crampons. Credit: Ian Parnell. be uncomfortable and difficult to fit.

SOCKS Socks are a very important part of the Make sure the sock fits snugly (con- modern footwear system. If chosen sider buying a size or two down from wrongly, they can cause blisters and usual) to prevent creasing of the ma- discomfort just as well as ill-fitting terial causing painful ridges and pres- boots! Avoid cotton fabric, as this will sure points that may rub the skin. Wear retain moisture from sweat causing freshly laundered, dry socks whenever your skin to become clammy and sus- possible – take a spare pair and use ceptible to rubbing from the boot. Most them towards the end of the day – your manufacturers make a variety of socks feet will appreciate the difference this in modern “wicking” fabrics to help pre- makes no end! vent this, although if you anticipate cold Many thanks to Berghaus for their conditions, good quality wool socks are help writing this article. Find out warmer and can still be best, especially more about their range of boots at if worn with a thin wicking liner sock. www.berghaus.co.uk

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 16 06/09/2002, 11:32 AM

BREAKING BARRIERS

Jamie Andrews reports on the BMC International Meet 2002.

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 20 04/09/2002, 1:21 PM "Blind in one eye, missing one leg below the knee, horrific scars all over his remaining limbs and with dozens of pieces of shrapnel still lodged in his body, Davoud continues his sporting lifestyle. Apart from going climbing Davoud wrestles, paraglides, plays basketball, and is a black belt in judo "

though accounts of vertical rubble and falling fridge-sized rocks would be enough to put most sane people off. But despite all this cutting edge activity, most of those present on the meet will agree that it wasn’t the ascents of high grade climbs that really had people’s heads turning. In fact the most impressive ascents of the week occurred mainly in the lower grades. The theme of this year’s meet was “breaking barriers” and it was good to see that the organis- ers of the meet had made a special effort to invite disabled climbers from around the world to participate. It was the physical barriers overcome by these various disabled climb- ers, and their companions, that was perhaps the greatest topic of talk at the dining tables and at the bar each evening. Davoud Salimabadi-Farahani from Iran was one of the disabled climbers present. Blown up by a landmine during the Iran-Iraq war, Davoud was lucky to escape with his life. Blind in one eye, missing one leg below the knee, horrific scars all over his remaining limbs and with dozens of pieces of shrapnel still lodged in his body, Davoud continues his sporting lifestyle. Apart from going climbing Davoud wres- tles, paraglides, plays basketball, and is a black belt in judo. He was most impressed with the climbing in North Wales and made ascents of many routes, including Tennis Shoe (HS), Rap on Gogarth (VS) and Valerie’s Rib (HS). Mats Tegner from Sweden has cerebral palsy, which makes even walking on a level surface very difficult for him. Never- theless Mats struggled doggedly to the foot of several crags and made some very fine climbs, the most impressive of which was a complete ascent of Tennis Shoe on the Idwal t was with slightly mixed emotions that I set off Slabs (HS). Mats claims to be Sweden’s only disabled on the 3rd of May for the long drive from climber so hopefully his success will help encourage others. IEdinburgh down to Plas y Brenin in North Tristan Firman from South Africa was born with a withered Wales, venue for the BMC International Meet. Apart right arm but he hasn’t let this setback hamper his climbing from at the local wall, it had been a long time since career. Using the withered arm for balance, and cranking I’d done a significant amount of rock climbing, and like mad with the good arm, he somehow manages to lead I was worried that I just wasn’t going to be up to it. up to E2, a feat which defies many fully able climbers. His Moreover, as a disabled climber, I was slightly ascents on this meet included Falcon (E2) at Tremadog and concerned that I might end up being the ‘token’ Cenotaph Corner (E1) in The Pass. disabled guy, left in the sidelines all week only to Spaniard Ivan German lost a leg above the knee in a be paraded out for a group photo at the end in motorcycle accident several years ago. This handicap, how- ever, is no match for Ivan’s powerful enthusiasm, and he order to ensure that the BMC fulfilled its official will happily hop his way up any route his partner cares to equality charter. lead.

But my fears couldn’t have been more unfounded. With a (OPPOSITE) Jamie Andrews getting stuck into some Christ- full week of perfect weather (yes there was some good mas Curry at Tremadog. Credit: Payne. (TOP LEFT) Janina weather this summer – did you blink?), a large contingent of Kayhko from Finland at Porth Ysgol. (BELOW) Lauma Kazusa rock hungry climbers from around the globe, and an equal and Arta Millere from Latvia get to grips with Brown's Man- number of equally enthusiastic host climbers from the UK, tle, Cromlech boulders. Both credit: Alex Messenger the meet could hardly fail to have been a success. Each day the full fleet of packed minibuses pulled out of the Brenin car park and scattered to the many diverse climb- ing areas of North Wales: The Pass, Idwal, Tremadog, Gogarth, The Ormes, the slate quarries. Literally hundreds of climbs were accomplished across the board of difficulty and climbing styles, from lonely mountain routes on Cyrn Las to boulder problems in top secret locations, wave swept monsters on Gogarth to sunny sports climbs at Pen Trwyn, and from the ever popular favourites on Idwal Slabs to more esoteric desperates on Dinas Cromlech. Many climbers took advantage of a bit of insider knowl- edge from veteran activist Pat Littlejohn who led raiding parties to the Lleyn Peninsular where dozens of new routes were put up, many of outstanding quality apparently, al-

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 21 06/09/2002, 11:35 AM INTERNATIONAL MEETSKILLS

Ivan’s hardest climb on the meet was seconding Dave noeuvres. It hurts like buggery though. I can’t come up Musgrove junior on the extremely strenuous Strike (E3) at with a precise simile but imagine climbing with a pair of ice- Gogarth, but perhaps more impressive was his ascent of axe shafts. No picks or adzes, just the shafts. Cenotaph Corner. Quite how you hop up a route that is Anyway, armed with a selection of new techniques de- 120 feet of difficult bridging, I don’t know! vised and practised over the winter at the Edinburgh Wall, Hunza Riha from the Czech Republic is totally blind. De- and following in the wake of the ridiculously optimistic Roger spite this he managed to feel his way up some remarkably Payne, I set out on a mission to push the grades. difficult climbs. The most heart-stopping of these was the Hope (VD) on Idwal Slabs seemed like a reasonable start, classic Dream of White Horses (HVS) which Hunza balanced although the horribly slippy twin cracks pitch caused some across with apparent ease, seeming to find the hand and trouble. I had hardly had time for a bite of my Brenin packed footholds purely by instinct. For directions Hunza relies to a lunch when Roger slingshotted on up Lazarus, a difficult great extent on shouted instructions from his climbing part- severe with an appropriate name in the circumstances. To ners. On Dream, adrift in the middle of that vast slab of my surprise I heaved my way successfully to the top. rock, with the noise of the sea crashing constantly below, I might have sat back and rested on my laurels at this he must have felt very alone. point but Roger once again had other ideas. The next day I And of course the BMC sent its very own disabled envoy in found myself abseiling nervously into the halfway ledge on the form of President Dave Musgrove, whose left hand was Castell Helen. The easiest way out of this spectacular spot unfortunately shortened by a falling block five years ago, is by the steep top pitch of Pel which goes at VS 4b. We although I’m not sure it’s quite fair to call someone who can managed to split the pitch into three micro-pitches each of climb E5 on Yorkshire Grit disabled! which put up a hell of a fight but eventually I found myself And so encouraged by this wealth of inspiring characters I sprawled back at the top of the crag feeling once again on felt compelled myself to push back the boundaries of what top of the world. On a roll now I continued for the rest of the I had so far attempted on rock since my accident. Having week to struggle up severe and hard-severe pitches at no hands and feet could be regarded as a reasonable in- Tremadog and in The Pass, but it was the final day of the convenience when it comes to rock climbing, but it is not as meet which provided a fitting climax. many might assume, a complete preclusion. Modern pros- Dave Musgrove, Ivan German and myself decided to team thetic legs are lightweight and functional, and whilst they up for an all-disabled assault on a neglected Gogarth clas- are insensitive and inflexible, if you can get the foot onto a sic. An old favourite of Dave’s from his younger days, Bloody foothold it will generally stay there. It’s a bit like climbing in Chimney is a steep VS testpiece which lives up to its name. a pair of rigid, high ankle plastic boots. The first pitch, given a technical grade of 4c, is a belligerent The lack of hands is a bigger problem. They are kind of and unyielding off-width crack which would more rightly be fundamental to the whole thing. Nevertheless I am blessed described as ungradeable. with a quality pair of stumps which I have trained to be Dave led up it smoothly enough but when it came to my strong and tough. Being articulated by means of the elbows turn to second I soon found that I was in for a battle. Every and still further by the shoulders, my stumps have proved inch of altitude was gained at the cost of much struggling, to be useful and versatile tools with which I can hook, jam, sweating, spitting and kicking. Sometimes it seemed that torque, undercling, and perform various other devious ma- for minutes at a time I was peddling and clawing and thrutching for all my might only to find myself sliding slowly No hands, no feet, no barriers. Jamie at Tremadog. Credit Payne. back down the crack. Eventually, however, after well over an hour of continuous effort, I arrived on the belay ledge, blue-faced and cursing. Ivan, damn him, hopped onto the stance a few minutes later, politely saying how hard he’d found it. The second pitch was a good, old-fashioned exercise in back-and-footing, deep in the bowls of the chimney. I man- aged this pitch with a bit more finesse but was put to shame once again by Ivan who strolled effortlessly up it as if a second leg would only have got in the way. The third pitch, once again graded 4c, was a more relaxed but technically harder exercise in bridging up an open cor- ner which disappeared in an exhausted blur and suddenly it was all over. We were at the top, spread-eagled in the heather and the campion and the sea-pinks, basking in the afternoon sun- light, and I suddenly realised that my disability didn’t matter anymore. Nor did Ivan’s, nor did Dave’s. All that mattered was that I was in the company of good friends, in a beauti- ful spot, with lovely weather, having a great day out on the crag. That’s what it’s all about isn’t it?

The theme of this year's meet was “breaking barriers” and I’ve talked mainly about the physical barriers that were broken. Barriers of course can be racial, cultural, social, mental, financial or many other things and these factors all play their part in excluding people from par- ticipating in climbing and mountaineering. It would be great in future to see a policy of total inclusion applied throughout our sport as a matter of course, not just as an annual theme. The mountains are there to be enjoyed by all. And finally big thanks to all the hosts, the staff at PyB and everyone at the BMC for making the meet such a success.

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ACT UPDATE

ACT - to improve access and protect the Contribute to projects like this - ACT helped fund cliff and mountain environment for the new descent path from Castle Rock in the Lakes. climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers.

The Access & Conservation Trust (ACT) would like to thank everyone who has made a donation. ACT relies on the gen- erosity of its corporate and individual members, and it has meant that we’ve been able to help fund a number of im- portant projects with more exciting ones in the pipeline. It is heartening to see the level of commitment to the environ- ment our members demonstrate. Ideas for projects come from a variety of sources, and we are always keen to hear of new ones. Let us know if there is something in your area that you feel fits our ethos of fund- ing work. Over the last few months, ACT has contributed to a number of projects initiated by the BMC, the Mountain- eering Council of Scotland (MCofS) and the Mountaineer- ing Council of Ireland (MCI). Recent projects 3Printing of the BMC Access Focus & Seasonal Restric- tions 2002 leaflet 3Production of six panels to celebrate UN International Year of Mountains 2002 and the Cumbria Mountain Festi- val, in partnership with the BMC, the Lake District National Park Authority, English Nature, the National Trust and United 3The MCofS’s reprint of the UIAA Summit Charter 3Path repair work at Castle Rock in the Lake District in Fund raising partnership with United Utilities and the Fell and Rock Climb- In order to raise money for our projects, we would like to ing Club. make donating as easy and as tax efficient as possible. There are a number of schemes in place for those who Future projects want to make an ongoing contribution to the work we do. The following projects are in the pipeline: PAYE: One of the best ways to make a regular small gift 3 ACT is to support this year’s Uplands Path Advisory is via PAYE where money comes directly out of your Group conference in Pitlochry, Scotland. Central to the con- monthly pay packet. It is deducted before tax is calcu- ference is a seminar to advocate the need for investment in lated so you don’t pay tax on the money you donate. high-quality solutions to upland footpath damage. Until April 2003, the Government will also contribute a 3ACT is planning to support the BMC’s conservation cam- further 10% of your donation. paign to promote good bouldering practice. The campaign Direct Debit: Rather than make a single donation, some will use posters featuring aficionados and a simple code of people pledge a small amount every month using a di- good practice to target bouldering activists. rect debit. 3At the sensitive climbing site of Portland in Dorset, ACT will contribute financially to the production of interpretation Gift Aid: If you are a UK taxpayer, you can redirect the panels. These will explain the importance of cliff flora and tax you’ve already paid on donations to charity by ticking fauna, and give advice on general conservation issues, along the Gift Aid box on the donation form. As such, each with specific information about bird nesting restrictions. donation you make is worth 28% more to us. 3 ACT has also offered partial funding to an ambitious Legacies: Making a will is something many shy away project to research the impact of climbers on rural econo- from, but if you die before making a will, those you love mies. The research seeks to assess the economic and non- are left with little security and added stress. Making a will monetary contributions made by hill walkers and climbers. is usually not difficult or expensive. and in addition to dependants, many people make bequests to organisa- Corporate members tions that have been important to them. Making a gift to ACT would like to thank the following corporate members: ACT will allow us to continue to protect the environment Berghaus and ensure that climbers and walkers in the future can Blue Peris Mountain Centre enjoy it. It will also reduce the tax burden on your benefi- BMC Guidebooks ciaries, as the money donated will be deducted from Castle Climbing Centre your estate before inheritance tax is calculated. You can Climbers’ Club make a will without professional help, but it is far better DMM to use a solicitor. First Ascent Graham Tiso GreenShires Publishing For more information MLTB Contact ACT at: 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 OIA 2BB, Tel: 0870 0104878, Fax: 0161 445 4500. Plas y Brenin [email protected], www.accesstrust.org.uk Rockfax Summit Financial Services Yorkshire Mountaineering Club Registered Charity Number: 1089516

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WET & WILD How to reach the other bank with Plas y Brenin

River crossings are not normally sought after experiences, but sometimes it becomes necessary to mix it up with the wet stuff. We’re generally lucky in the UK, being well supplied by a network of bridges but in remote areas it can be difficult to avoid crossings. So what can you do?

Plan to avoid Avoidance is always better than the cure and when heading to remote areas optimise your plans to keep the chance of river crossings to a minimum. Check the forecast – is it going to rain, and if so what’s the likely duration and inten- sity of the rainfall? This is closely related to current water levels and ground condition; waterlogged ground will be unable to soak up any additional water, so further rainfall will run off into a myriad of small streams turning previously benign rivers into raging torrents. The gradient of the terrain will exacerbate this, as anyone who’s pitched a tent in a dry hollow and woken up in a lake will testify. Hard packed ground (baked, frozen, or continuous rock) will also cause immedi- ate run off. But perhaps the most dramatic changes are caused by melt water. In the Alps and further afield spring melt waters can produce enormously destructive torrents, and this can also occur in the UK, especially if combined with heavy rainfall and semi-frozen ground. Don’t overlook human intervention either; if there’s a hydro scheme in the area the releases will cause severe fluctuations in river level, so watch out for any signs or local warnings.

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 26 06/09/2002, 11:41 AM Deciding whether to cross CROSSING TECHNIQUES But if the best laid plans fall apart and you come face to face with a river, don’t dash in, first consider your options: Single Person  Change the route plan – do you really have to cross it? A single person can cross a  Find a bridge! Consider even if it’s a long walk stream on their own, this has the  Wait. Mountain streams can both rise and fall quickly. advantage that only one person But make a note of present water levels and remember that is put at risk at any one time. there can be a time lag of several hours between rainfall However little support can be and rivers rising. gained. Ski poles will help, you  Look at the map. Check for braiding where the river should face upstream, whilst divides into many shallow channels, narrow tributaries, leaning on the pole. Move one easier gradients, lake inflows or outflows. point at a time, and try to keep one foot behind the other mov- Think about these alternatives and consider if they are ing along side ways like a crab. actually feasible. A long walk upstream at the end of day You may find it easier if you have may be just too tiring. your back slightly towards the bank to which you wish to go, giving a ‘ferry glide’ effect. Hazards Remember that crossing can be far from simple. When Group Methods weighing it up in your head think about the hazards: Most people will opt to cross as a group. These group meth- ods require an appointed leader to co-ordinate movement. Cold water - You lose body heat 25-30 times faster in In a formal leadership situation it may be appropriate for water than in air. the leader to accompany each group, although this does The riverbed is likely to be slippy and awkward increas- have implications for the leaders return journey. A dry run ing the chances of a fall and being swept away. If the water ensures that everyone knows what they are expected to do. is cloudy you won’t be able to see the bottom.  Downstream obstacles; fallen trees, overhanging Line Astern branches, boulder chokes, waterfalls - all manner of things The key to wading is to present to fall over or get trapped against. as small as surface area to the  Water flow – it can be alarmingly fast and difficult to get current as possible. In this out of, particularly near the banks where the current tends method the front person is to push swimmers back in to the central flow. supported by the people be-  Mountaineering equipment is not designed with swift hind, who push downwards as water in mind, and will severely impede swimming. well as supporting. This less- ens the chances of the lead- If things go wrong with a crossing there can be many prob- ers feet being washed from under them. Other members lems to deal with, such as a split party with some members are protected by the eddy created by the leader. carried downstream, cold, wet, immersion, hypothermia, falling morale, loss of equipment and injury. The Group Wedge This technique requires the big- Site Assessment gest and the strongest people at The bottom line is that it’s important to choose a site with a the apex of the wedge, where safe run out should things go wrong and someone ends up they make a very effective eddy swimming. The site should be: behind them. The rest of the group are protected from the Safe - identify the downstream hazards. main force of the current and can Shallow - anything above mid thigh can push you over, cross in relative ease. At least unless it is very slow moving. three people are needed. Narrow - means that you are at risk for less time, but beware it could be deep and fast People Pivot Slow - reduces the chances of being knocked over and This strategy works well in washed away. A cubic metre of water weighs a tonne! bouldery rivers. Make a tripod Escapable - make sure its possible to get out on the facing each other, as one per- other side before committing yourself. son gains a good footing they make a secure anchor whilst Preparation the other team members ro- Once a decision has been made to cross, make sure every- tate around them until a se- one knows the score. If the method of crossing is complex, cure position can be found by do a dry run. Rucksack straps should be loosened, chest another person. Rotating and hip belts undone and tucked away. Ideally only one around them in turn. A group member is vulnerable to the shoulder strap should be used. If someone does swim the current of the river when they are facing downstream. rucksack is likely to float for a while, particularly if things are packed in poly bags . It will then become a useful flotation aid. Boots should usually be worn with socks so that they fit well, and wet socks can be rung out later. Loose trousers (LEFT TOP) Jaj Kang river crossing in Zanskar. Credit: Seb and over-trousers will hinder movement and should be re- Mankelow. (LEFT BOTTOM) Al Powell crossing a feisty stream moved, although gaiters can protect the lower leg. Ski poles in the Indian Garhwhal Himalaya, with Pete Benson think- are very useful, acting as stabilisers, but make sure they ing about attempting to help him out. Credit: Ian Parnell. are secure and remove the baskets to reduce snagging. Note in both cases the facing upstream and use of ski poles.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27 2 7

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 27 04/09/2002, 3:23 PM SKILLS

Roped Crossings Only use a rope as a last resort since it provides a very THE V-LOWER effective way of drowning someone if used inappropriately. Climbing rope will sink and be affected by currents, so if the Stage 1 rope becomes slack the risk of entanglement is high. To A offers support to B reduce the risk avoid tying off the rope to an anchor, tying during crossing using a into the rope, or allowing it to drop into the water. Tradition- waist belay with an ad- ally the Open Loop method was used to safeguard cross- ditional person secur- ings, but this is rather complicated. A better method is the ing the Belayer. A and V-Lower, based on a white water rescue technique and taught B are the first and last and used in Scotland for a number of years with consider- to cross and should able success. The V-Lower is easy to explain to novices, has therefore be the big- no knots to snag, and offers good support. It can be broken gest, strongest and down into five stages (see right). most competent. B holds the rope, which has a knot in the end to increase grip. Swimming An overhand knot is ideal but the loop formed should be If someone ends up swimming it is vital that they keep their small so that a hand cannot pass through it and risk entan- feet up and swim with their feet downstream, on their backs. glement. This is termed defensive swimming. The aim is to minimise the risk of trapping a foot on the riverbed with fatal conse- Stage 2 quences - anybody who is knocked over with a trapped foot A and B position them- will find it very difficult or even impossible to lift their head selves opposite each out of the water. Try to swim passively when in tricky water other and equalise the then use a positive approach when swimming to the bank in rope. It is recom- an eddy or slow moving section. mended that B untie the knot from the end Find out more of the rope. A could tie Two new videos about the dangers of mountain streams a small, simple knot in and rivers are now available: Water Hazards in the Moun- the middle of the rope. tains and Water Safety for Walkers. Stage 3 The videos have been produced to raise awareness of the Should C slip then A dangers of mountain streams and rivers and the informa- pays out more rope and tion and skills provided include crossing in easy summer B allows C to swing in conditions, changes that occur in water levels after rain or to the bank. B should snowmelt, pre-planning (studying maps and weather fore- be aware that too much casts), choosing a safe place to cross while on the hill and tension may lead to C when not to attempt crossing. Launched by the Duke of being planed underwa- York, the videos feature volunteers from the mountaineer- ter. Gently paying out ing fraternity and a twenty minute narration by Cameron the rope as C swings in McNeish. should reduce this from happening. The person in the water ( C ) can hold onto the Water Hazards in the Mountains rope in two ways: This contains recognised methods of crossing rivers and fast flowing streams 1) hold onto the downstream side. The greatest support will as recommended by the Mountain then shift from one bank to the other as C crosses. If in Training Boards and aims to help with difficulty C can simply let go and swim for it if necessary. the training of those on Mountain Again a small knot may help with grip. Leader courses as well as mountain- eers and clubs operating in remote or 2) Get inside the rope i.e. on the upstream side and have serious terrain. the rope running behind you. This offers more support and makes it slightly easier to swing someone in if they lose their footing. However it increases the risk of entanglement, as it may be difficult to duck under the loop, particularly when wearing a rucksack. Water Safety for Walkers This video aims to help with the train- Stage 4 ing of Duke of Edinburgh’s expedition As the party crosses, groups, youth groups on hill walks, individuals should pro- school pupils undertaking adventure vide back-ups to the activities and walking group leaders in belayers and offer as- lower hill country. sistance to the person in the water as they get out onto the bank. They should also be The videos cost £4.95 each (including ready to help if things p&p) and are available from The Moun- go wrong. taineering Council of Scotland, The Old Granary, West Mill Street, Perth, PH1 5QP. Tel: 01738 Stage 5 638227, Web: www.mountaineering-scotland.org.uk A is the last person and can reverse step one.

28 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

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JURASSIC PARK ortland - a Site of Special Scientific Interest tional importance which have been studied since the Victo- (SSSI), a candidate for a European Special rian times. Fossils of ammonites (shellfish) are found within PArea of Conservation (SAC) and now a World the Portlandian Stage and provide a unique record of the Heritage site. So what does this mean? Is climbing evolution of a particular group of ammonites. These shellfish on Portland under threat from these conservation were large, often reaching diameters of up to 1m. The fossils designations? BMC Access Officer and resident of Jurassic land living dinosaurs found in America and Tanza- geologist Clare Bond investigates. nia may be better known than those of the Portlandian, but the Portlandian sequence of Dorset contains the World’s best examples of marine reptiles of this age. WHY WORRY? In 1999 the Government announced that the Dorset and THE MODERN DAY East Devon Coast would be one of 25 cultural and natural sites on the UK’s list for nomination for World Heritage sta- However as most of you will know Portland is not only home tus. The UK and its Overseas Territories already had 18 to ancient crocodiles but also to some of the UK’s sunniest sites on the World Heritage List. Of these only two were sports climbs, limestone cliff flora, nesting sea bird colonies natural sites within the UK, St Kilda and the Giant’s Cause- and the Peregrine Falcon. The Portland Rock Forum - not a way, but in December 2001 the Dorset and East Devon meeting of the great and good of geology - but a liaison Coast became the third. But with climbing banned on St meeting between local climbers, the BMC, and conserva- Kilda (albeit under review with a management change on tion bodies has been meeting on and off for several years. the cards) and this new World Heritage Site containing some The Portland Rock Forum agrees bird-nesting restrictions of Dorset’s prime climbing sites, should climbers be em- and deals with any conservation or access issues that arise bracing this new found status? related to climbing on Portland’s sea cliffs. However, with a period of time when there was no Portland Ranger and local climbing activist, BMC access rep and WHY'S IT SPECIAL ANYWAY? climbing shop owner Neal Heanes, had literally shut up shop The Dorset and East Devon Coast is world renowned for its and gone on holiday, there was what can be best described earth science. The coast provides almost continual and ac- as a lack of communication. This unfortunately seemed to cessible rock exposure, which documents 185 million years coincide with changes in the nesting patterns of Portland’s of Earth History. The coast is famous for its Triassic, Jurassic resident Peregrines and incitement in the local press about and Cretaceous rocks and in particular the fossils contained climbers scaring seagulls into Weymouth! within them. The sequence of rocks covers almost the en- Thankfully Neal returned, unfortunately not re-opening his tire Mesozoic Era, rocks deposited between 251-66 million shop, and Dorset County Council appointed a new warden, years ago. The 95-mile stretch of coastline was already Liza Cole. Liza brought to the job lots of experience of work- protected by 13 geological SSSI and now World Heritage ing with climbers having been the warden on Lundy for many status adds value to these conservation designations. years and before that the ranger at South Stack, Anglesey. Portland itself is made from rock laid down during the After several phone calls and conversations with Liza and Jurassic between 205 -135 million years ago, and is the the Police Wildlife Liaison Officer the Portland Rock Forum type locality (place where it was first described) for a rock was re-born and met on a very sunny day in May at the sequence known as the Portlandian Stage. The cliffs con- Portland Bird Observatory. It was an amicable meeting given tain sedimentary layering, fossils and rock types of interna- the issues on the agenda, one of those positive up-beat

(TOP) Alex Dennis on The Price of Silence F6a, Battleship 30 Back Cliff. Credit: Steve Taylor BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 30 04/09/2002, 4:04 PM PORTLAND: RESTRICTED AREAS

access and conservation meetings that I enjoy attending – believe me they are not always so amicable! Quite often these meetings are purely a means of starting a line of communication, sharing understanding of the issues and coming up with management solutions. A small group then go away and work on implementing the solutions. Unfortu- nately Richard Edmonds, the Earth Science Manager for the World Heritage Site could not attend the meeting, but sent the following statement to Liza Cole -"I do not have any concerns that climbing would cause significant damage to the World Heritage Site". A promising view for management of other World Heritage Sites and I suspect an acknowledgement that the site is more likely to be threatened by fossil collection rather than climbers - who generally prefer their rock intact! Having got concerns over the new World Heritage status out of the way, the meeting focused on damage to limestone cliff vegeta- tion and probably the most emotive item on the agenda, disturbance of the Peregrine Falcons. Portland has three agreed sanctuary zones (see map right) where climbing does not take place. It was agreed that there had been no climb- ing incursions into these zones, nor were there likely to be. The main areas of concern were the zones of seasonal nest- ing restrictions, particularly those at Wallsend where there was still some confusion as to the location of the Peregrines nest this year. It was agreed that the ‘bolt clamps’ had not worked and should be replaced by a series of measures to get the correct information out to climbers in as many medi- ums as possible, since all the bodies agreed that climbing generally only took place in restricted areas out of igno- rance rather than by deliberate action.

FUTURE PLANS: As a result the following actions have been agreed: - Interpretation boards at the main access points describ- ing the conservation interests. ST KILDA - THE STORY - Signs at the base of, or the approach, to routes detailing the routes affected and the duration of the restriction. St Kilda is one of the remotest and - All remaining clamps on bolts to be removed. spectacular places in the UK lying - Removal of bolts on the slab in the ‘Neddyfields’ area to 70km west of Scotland’s Western protect the Portland Sea Lavender (Limonium recurverum) Isles. It is owned by the National - Updating of the leaflet, which was previously available at Trust for Scotland (NTS), but when the local climbing shop, and distribute to other local shops, it gained World Heritage Status in campsites etc. 1987 for its stunning cliffs and im- - Place leaflet as a pdf on the BMC website. portant sea bird colonies the NTS - Update the Regional Access Database annually. leased the management to Scottish Natural Heritage (SNH). SNH intro- It is hoped that ACT, the new Access and Conservation duced byelaws which ban climbing Trust formed from the BMC, the MCofS and the MCI (see and curiously ‘solo-walking’. Laws p.24) will part fund the project. Of course all this involves which are not exactly in line with work by local volunteers to check routes and to work with current access legislation and Scot- the local ranger to keep the information up to date and to land’s image as a wild land where sign the routes. Thanks to all those who have been involved one can walk across the hills in – keeping the communication between the different inter- freedom. The NTS are now re-claim- est groups is the key to success and ensures a positive ing management of the site and are image of climbers by conservation bodies. currently reviewing the byelaws. The change coincides with a Scot- MORE INFORMATION tish Executive bid to extend St Kil- da’s World Heritage status to gain www.jurassiccoast.com recognition of its spectacular un- The official website for the World Heritage site derwater scenery of cliffs, caves www.heritagecoast.org and gullies and for the cultural More earth science info landscape of the islands. www.unesco.org/whc/heritage.htm Interestingly the Mountaineering The official list of the 730 World Heritage sites Council of Scotland argue that St www.portlandbirdobs.btinternet.co.uk Kilda could be the home of Scot- Portland’s birds and more tish climbing with early residents www.dorset-climbing.net climbing to kill seafowl for food! Climbing in dorset Find out more about their campaign www.thebmc.co.uk/outdoor/rad/rad.asp to reinstate climbing on St Kilda at BMC Regional Access Database (RAD) www.mountaineering- Scotland.org.uk/access/ stkilda.html. General St Kilda infor- BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27mation can be found on the NTS St 3 1

Kilda website www.kilda.org.uk Joff Cook on the Great Pretender F7a, Cove. Credit: Steve Taylor Wallsend

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 31 04/09/2002, 4:06 PM OFFERS WIN ANQUET Great new online magazine offer CD MAPS! for BMC members! Anquet Maps is the great new way to get Ordnance With ActivPursuits, a new online adventure sports and Survey maps: all-inclusive CD- travel magazine, you don’t have to hang about for the Roms that allow you to scroll around and print latest news and information on climbing, trekking and out seamless maps at the scale you want. Each product exploring. The magazine is online and is updated daily. contains a selected amount of 1:50,000 maps. And for BMC members we have arranged a special price of £14.95 for 12 months – that’s £10 off! Every CD also includes a full GB road map, and a gazet- ActivPursuits is a new kind of daily magazine offering a teer of 250,000 place names. Plan your own routes with combination of original and reliable content with speed of the included tools then view the height profile of the route delivery. Its articles and news are sourced by a strong panel and statistics such as height ascended and hidden length. of editors (including Stephen Venables and Paul Deegan, Save your routes and email them to a friend, or download author of the BMC’s own Mountain Traveller’s Handbook). them to your Garmin GPS unit. All the articles are original and are online for permanent The product range includes two half-country packs that reference. Climbing, trekking and access news is covered cover the whole of Great Britain. Also available are five daily – you may have to wait months before reading the separate single CD-Rom products that cover the National same news in other publications. There are also hundreds Parks of Great Britain, which retail for £35 each. of events and travel ideas in the magazine. We’ve even launched our own BMC microsite within the magazine – To win a copy of one of the 5 National Parks CD’s, just another great way to get information about what’s on and send your name and address to: Anquet Maps what’s happening at the BMC. Summit Competition, 16-19 Southampton Place, London, WC1A 2AJ You can take a free 7 day trial of the magazine before subscribing at the special price we have arranged. But Please state which copy you would like to re- remember, to get this price you must insert the CD-ROM ceive if you win– Scotland, The Lakes, The enclosed with this issue of Summit into your computer, Peaks, Wales or the South Coast. 20. Winners rather than logging straight onto the site. And don’t will be picked from a hat on the 31st October forget to enter the unique ID number located on the 2002. back cover of the disc. CANHANG YOU REALLY ABOUT FOR A MONTH?

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32 Photo: Steve Long BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 32 11/09/2002, 1:53 PM

Adventure 34 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 34 04/09/2002, 11:29 AM it's time to escape.

The BMC and renowned photographer John Beatty team up to promote ACT and help you escape in 2003.

dventure. It’s not found in meetings. It’s not on agendas. You don’t find it in the photocopier, the Adesk drawer, or the filing cabinet. You can’t with- draw it from the bank, and you can’t buy it from the supermarket. There are no mortgages or pension plans for it. It doesn't come with a money back guarantee and Microsoft don’t license it. All the money in the world can’t fake it, and the best car counts for nothing.

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JUST A FEW OF THE GREAT IMAGES IN THE YEARBOOK (CLOCKWISE) Ice debris at the snout of the world's fastest mov- ing glacier - Perito Moreno, Argentina. Credit Beatty. Winter de- scent from the summit of Ben Nevis. Credit Beatty. Flume gorge, New Hampshire. Credit Beatty. Graeme Ettle on Stirling Bridge VI 6, Coire Lochan. Credit: Dave Cuthbertson. Early starters in the Kebnakaiser mountains in northern Sweden. Credit: Beatty.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27 3 5

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 35 04/09/2002, 11:29 AM ACT THE ADVENTURE YEARBOOK 2003

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(LEFT) Gary Latter on the Muckle House Wall, E5 6b, Rora Head, Hoy. Credit: Dave Cuthbertson. Order Form Adventure To order, just add the appropriate prices and complete your personal details. Yearbook 2003

PUBLICATION CODE BMC MEMBER PRICE NON-MEMBER PRICE TOTAL The Complete Adventure Package ADVENTURE AYB001 £12.00 £14.00 YEARBOOK Buy two of these great publications and get the third FREE! MOUNTAIN TRAVEL MTB001 £11.50 £13.00 HANDBOOK A BRIEF HISTORY OF BMC008 £10.00 £15.00 BRITISH MOUNTAINEERING ALL 3 - THE COMPLETE AYB002 £23.50 £29.00 ADVENTURE PACKAGE POST & PACKING: FREE I ENCLOSE A DONATION TO ACT OF: TOTAL AMOUNT: Personal Details ▲ Adventure Yearbook 2003 • Superb collection of 60 adventure photographs • Week to view diary • Inspirational quotes First name: ...... Surname: ...... • Full colour, softback, spiral bound • Diary to major outdoor events in 2003 • Packed full of essential outdoor contacts and information • All proceeds to ACT Address:......

...... Postcode: ...... “This book should be Phone Nº: (...... ) ...... E-mail:...... the launchpad of any overseas adventure” BMC Club Name: ...... BMC Membership Nº: Or Trail Magazine Please complete the details below or enclose a cheque payable to the: British Mountaineering Council

Please debit a total of£ from my card ▲ A Brief History of British Mountaineering ▲ The Mountain Travellers Handbook • A brilliant, concise introduction With over 60 advisors and contributors – Card Nº: to the world of mountaineering. including Sir Chris Bonington, Peter Hillary • The full story of the battle to climb Everest – and Stephen Venables – this BMC book Expires End: Valid from: Issue Nº (Switch only): including the Epic of Mallory & Irvine. gives practical advice on every aspect of • The ideal gift for anyone with a taste mountain travel. for adventure! Don’t leave home without it! Signature: ...... Date: ......

Please return to: British Mountaineering Council, FREEPOST MR 9759, Manchester, M20 7AD. All BMC proceeds from the Adventure Yearbook go towards ACT. ACT aims to promote sustainable access to cliffs, mountains and open countryside by facilitating Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500 education and conservation projects that safeguard the access needs of climbers, Website:36 www.thebmc.co.uk E-Mail: [email protected] hill-walkersBMC and mountaineers.SUMMIT Find out more - at www.accesstrust.org.ukISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 36 04/09/2002, 4:06 PM

the RIGHT STUFF Lay back and think of Stanage! By Niall Grimes

From the north, to the south, it rolls on for miles. A black blob, buckled like an old hag and slumped, happily ashamed. Fed up; the Cowperstone. To littler outputs, hopeful springings or cast-offs, I don’t know. Then it hits – from the car-studded road the marmalade hillside angles up to the shameless mass appeal of the Popular End.

t’s all here. From fat arses cinched tight in a borrowed aspirations may be getting higher all the time, but we still harness to hard-men strutting rope-free above the devour the goings on of plain folk in Wetherby or Albert Iguarded awe of onlookers: the aspirant picking properly Square, or those willing to do any number of other things on up a first VS lead-”Slack on Blue please” and the retired prime-time to win themselves a few grand. teacher, happily doing Hargreaves’ Original for the I-don’t- As a route it is, of course, fantastic, and has that superb know-how-manyith-time. And everything else in between. quality of all great gritstone climbs, in as much as it climbs Mileage merchants, hopeful dads and terrified daughters, one fantastic feature, but where no two moves are ever the snappy husbands and pissed off wives, groups in helmets same. There’s very little point in describing it, as who hasn’t taking it all in, and the man in shorts hanging off the lip of ever seen it? That huge powerful flake of rock arrowing down Flying Buttress Direct. the steep face, shaped somewhere between a dagger and This is Stanage. The most popular crag in Britain. From a shield. Seeking the ground, yet not quite reaching it, its here, it strings on and on, ever busy, past buttress after left and right sides forming their respective Unconquerables. buttress, the Plantation, Enclosure buttress, the mighty High The left fork is merely brilliant; perfect rock, steep and force- Neb, and finally on to Stanage End, the lonely far flung ful, but, despite being harder than its right-hand brother, is outpost, lacking in the crowds and numbers of routes that still not quite as big a lead. the Popular End has, but certainly not lacking in quality. But On the Right, once the initial stiff crack has been slithered despite all the routes, 1200 of them, of thereabouts, and up, the climber stands at the base of the mighty flake, and hundreds of boulder problems, there is a route on Stanage, its awaiting difficulties are all to obvious, and are, obviously, that is probably more important than all the rest, and is, overcome by nothing less than full frontal laybacking and perhaps, the most significant route in the country. The mighty jamming. The trepidation often felt before embarking on Right Unconquerable. this journey are easy to understand: what if?s buzz round It was first climbed by Britain’s most celebrated climber. the head of all but the most confident of climbers, the most Joe Brown- The Baron, The Master, The ‘Uman Fly, by miles obvious being, What if I can’t stop to place some gear, the the best climber the country has ever seen. Only Ron laybackers wildest nightmare. Such thoughts are assuaged Fawcett and Jerry Moffatt have ever come close to Brown in by tentative probes into the friendly recesses of the lower their ability to shake the climbing world to its foundations, crack, hand sized, comforting, and the early availability of and they both concerned themselves to the much narrower good gear. Footholds are okay, and allow a pause, but sooner, world of the technical rock climb; climbers’ climbers. Brown rather than later, comes the time to start laybacking again. was not only the climbers’ climber, but everyone else’s as Protection can be had all the way up, of course. But you well. Marauding the country in the years immediately after know. You know that this is the one you’ve always wanted to the war and redefining forever what was to be considered do, the one you’ve wanted to climb well. And of course, you impossible. In 1947, the two mighty flake cracks in the can’t climb well if your mind is on protection. And you know centre of Stanage, the Unconquerables, had certainly built that if you climb well, you won’t need protection. See? It’s up a reputation to match their name- Peter Harding had the Catch 22, only the other way round. If you don’t place failed on them! Then, on September 4th, 1949, along cones protection, you won’t need it. Not that there is any danger, Joe Brown and waltzes up both the cracks with ease. Bingo! but there are certain routes that you must respect, if you Joe is still the all time, flawless hero of British climbing. are to expect them to respect you. Right Unconquerable is The working class lad who made his way out of the streets one of them. It would be wrong to get pumped twitching with of slummy Salford, ensuring a place in all our hearts. Our some shiny product purchased for thirty quid in a shop. (TOP) Antonia Freem on the Right Unconquerable. 38 Credit: Ian Hill BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 38 11/09/2002, 1:14 PM Better to flow, to roll up the flake, unforgettable moves lead- ing, with that thrill of a pump coming on, to deep jams in the break below the bulging top-out. But of course, if it were only the climbing that it was all about, then it wouldn’t be the same. But of course it’s not. Right Unconquerable lies in the middle of Stanage, which lies, not only in the middle of the Peak District and in the middle of England but also, it is at the centre of most peo- ple’s climbing. The upland gritstones of the Peak are the Discarded oxygen fondest of all the rocks in the country. Ask most climbers bottle now used as a what their favourite rock is, they will say grit. A few awkward school bell in Yulba Northumbrians might turn their gaze away and mumble Sand- on the approach to stone; a repressed Northwalian go on about Gogarth. But for the East Face of the majority, grit is what lies at the hearthstone. It has in- Everest. Credit: Ray spired the most writing, most photographs and, despite its Wood. small size on the doorstep of great cities, an inordinate number of epics. In many ways it holds the same position in Britain as Yosemite granite holds in the United States, a seeming godhead springing forward endless heroes and stories, the tales which in many ways go to define the central climbing culture of the two countries and which, almost more than the rock itself, inspires visitors to travel the globe to find their place amongst. Fortunately, not only is grit infinitely nicer than slippery Yosemite granite, but its central route, Right Unconquerable, is a lot more do-able than its American coun- terpart, the Nose, which goes free at roughly E9. The majority of the climbing population, it appears, climb up to the grade of HVS, truly in the middle of the grades. Ten extremes lie above it, ten adjectival grades below. And, in a way, HVS is the first really great grade. HVS, along with E2 and E5, are where the vast bulk of our greatest climbs lie, for some reason. Perhaps it is because there three are the broadest grades, greedily devouring supreme routes across a great band of difficulties. HVS is arguable, the greatest amongst these. The grade at which climbing really begins. Very few climbers enter the hallowed grounds of HVS without trying very hard. Yet many do enter it. And even if, grade-wise, you never went beyond HVS, then any climber could happily spend his life travelling the land and ticking classics. Cemetery Gates, Kipling Groove, Central Buttress, Dream of White Horses, Moonraker, Centurion, the Hammer, Army Dreamers, Malbogies. All mighty history soaked classics with climbing every bit as good as their reputations. Yet these are all regional classics, off in the places where you might go for a trip once or twice a year maybe. (Why don’t you get out to the Lakes more often?) But Right Unconquerable is different; that’s because Stanage is different, because grit is different, the Peak is different. The Peak District, more than any other area in the country, belongs to the country as a whole. Only North Wales comes anywhere near in its nationwide popularity. The Peak belongs to climbers in Lon- don and Carlisle as much as it does to those in Sheffield. And as such Right Unconquerable is, as the most classic route of the most important grade on the most significant crag in the most popular region in the country, unarguably, the central route in Britain. Paused in the last break, plenty of gear to be had, but the last bulge, and you know that, even here, you could still blow it. You pull up, level with the top; the moors stretch away, but before them, a flat top of grit stretches away from you, apparently holdless. Forget style, you’ve done enough, just launch over and swim. This is grit, after all, then sit among the midges on the summit, knowing you have just done one of the greatest routes in the country.

IT'S COMING! The new Stanage guide is nearly here. Priced £13 (members) or £15 (non-members) the essential bible to Britain's best loved crag will be out in early October. No really, it will.

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 39 11/09/2002, 2:08 PM SERVICES

OVER THE ODDS? Life insurance. If you don’t know what it is, then the chances are you don’t need it. But when you do WHAT CAN BE COVERED? need it the last thing you want is to be lumped into the same category as a stunt driver with an 80-a-day habit Mortgage Protection: just because you climb the odd Severe, or have a trip Normally decreasing cover in line with outstanding mortgage planned to Island Peak. liability on a repayment mortgage. Critical illness cover can be added. It’s not uncommon for climbers, hill walkers and moun- Level Term Assurance: taineers to be financially penalised for their activity, simply This provides a financial protection for dependants. Critical because the insurers don’t know the difference between illness may be added. This cover is for a defined period with the K2 on Hen Cloud and the one in the Himalaya (One is a defined sumassured. This cover is often also required for popular VS lead, the other less so). And we are not talking business use. pennies here - the loading for ‘dangerous sports’ can as Critical Illness Cover: much as double the expense of an already pricey policy. So Critical illness cover will pay a lump sum on the diagnosis of what can be done? Well, there is one option – head for a a specified illness described in the policy. This could be a specialist company. serious illness such as a heart attack, cancer, stroke or Enter Summit Financial Services, Independent Financial kidney failure. Advisers who have developed close relationships with insur- Income Protection: ance companies who recognise that climbers are responsi- This type of policy would pay regular income in the event of ble individuals enjoying a recognised sport, and who can you being unable to work through ill health after a certain advise climbers on all the relevant issues. Summit Financial chosen period and would continue to be paid until your Services work closely with the BMC and have obtained terms selected retirement date. The benefit is limited to a propor- with underwriters who understand the needs of climbers. If tion of income and should cover financial commitments such you are moving house for example they consider that you as mortgage repayments, car finances and household bills are taking out life insurance because you are buying a home, etc. Very few companies will offer this type of cover to in- not because you are partaking in a ‘dangerous’ sport. Ac- clude injuries sustained whilst climbing. Cover can be ob- cordingly they are able to offer life insurance with no rec- tained, but will almost certainly be loaded. reational loading or pastime exclusions in these circum- stances (albeit up to certain cover and age limits) and this WHAT LEVEL OF COVER DO I NEED? can mean big savings over ‘high street’ providers. Of course there are many factors which may influence an In order to determine an adequate level of cover you ought underwriting decision, but specific to climbers the under- to calculate your mortgage liability and consider the provi- writer will require information about where you climb, how sion of a lump sum on your death to provide an income in often, what grade, your experience, and your future inten- your absence. However benefits available in your employ- tions. Of all these factors the location of your climbing is ment should be taken into account when making these cal- probably the most important. culations as should your current assets and wealth, since There are many, many reasons for taking out financial premiums need to be tempered with affordability. Unfortu- protection and it is important that advice is sought from nately Inheritance tax should also be taken into account. In suitably qualified Independent Financial Advisers. Summit the current tax year an estate in excess of £250,000 will Financial Services is an appointed representative of attract an inheritance tax liability of 40% of the excess, so Lonsdale Financial Services who are independent financial careful financial planning is required. advisers and regulated by the Financial Services Authority. WHAT NOW? “Your service has been quite simply excellent...I will certainly recommend your company to both my Phone Summit Financial Services today for a free, no obli- climbing and non-climbing friends and anyone I gation quote on: 01539 564200 meet on the crag!” – Nik Birkby, Preston. Fax: 015395 64477, email: [email protected] (TOP) Ian Pudge, above the Glacier Blanc, Ecrins. 40 Credit: Jim Krawiecki. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

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flower There are a number of reasons for this lack of diversity, including the oceanicity and relative lowness of our moun- tains, which often don’t provide the cold conditions which arctic-alpine plants need to survive. Also, we tend not to have large expanses of nutrient rich rocks which support power greater numbers of these species. Most of the arctic-alpine plant species in Britain grow on cold north/north-east facing In the third of four International Year of Mountains cliffs, where there is freedom from competition from more articles, Barbara Jones of the Countryside Council aggressive species which grow in less extreme environments for Wales looks at how alpine flowers are fighting and where temperature and drainage mimic to a certain extent the conditions found in the bigger mountains of the back against over-grazing in the British uplands. world, with the notable exception of sun! However, the lack of diversity in our mountain flora is not ave you ever been to the Dolomites, other parts of just attributed to physical attributes. Years of heavy grazing the Alps, the Rocky Mountains or the Caucasus in have changed the natural vegetation. Once there would have H summer? If so, then even the most focussed climber been gnarled woodlands merging, on the uphill, into scat- can’tVITAL help but have noticed the marvellous FOR display of alpine teredBILLIONS scrub, and then, with greater altitude into heath and flowers which these mountains provide each year. The con- grasslands. Arctic-alpine species would extend over rocky trast with the British mountains couldn’t be stronger. The sites wherever the rockThe type declaration and aspect ofwere 2002 suitable. as the In- acres of bare hillsides, dominated by short grasses, with stead of this natural stateInternational we now have Year vast ofareas Mountains of closely occasional scatterings of heath, characterise so much of cropped grassland; these(IYM) grasslands by the have UN much General less diver- our uplands, with hardly a splash of colour in sight. sity than the naturalAssembly vegetation, bothrecognises from an ecological that and a landscape perspective.mountains Furthermore, are important Britain not onlyis of world importance forto its the heaths millions and ofblanket people bogs, who but live a large percentage of inthese them, have and been those drained of us towho provide like more grazing or land tofor visitafforestation them, andbut pressuresto the global on the remaining habitat arecommunity. still strong. Grazing is important to maintain some types of vegetation such as many heaths below the natural treeline and herb Martin Price from the Centre for rich grasslands which would otherwise eventually revert to woodland. However, currentMountain grazing Studies, levels overPerth much College of the British uplands are tooexplains high and more. have converted many ar- eas of even these habitats to grassland. So, can we ever expect to see these massed displays of alpines on our mountains? The answer to this has to be no, for the reasons given above, but we could expect to see much more than we currently(MAIN) have, Island particularly Peak. Credit: in terms Tom of heaths, woodlands and richerBriggs grasslands. / Jagged Globe. There (RIGHT)is hope that in the future we shall doThe so, Mt with Blanc the Massif possible - mountains reform of the CAP and the increasingare numbernot just importantof agri-environment to visitors. schemes which conservation organisationsCredit: are Alastair currently Lee establishing with landowners in many parts of our uplands, with the main aim of reducing grazing and preventing any further deterioration. Some of these schemes are even (LEFT) The culprit! (TOP RIGHT) Sedum rosea and (LEFT) Saxifraga oppositifolia, two species we could expect to see more with better grazing management. Credit: B.Jones 42 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 42 11/09/2002, 12:08 PM Peat plot at Cwm Idwal. Notice the difference (right) when grazing is excluded for 30+ years. Credit: B.Jones

reversing the trend and working to restore a more diverse vegetation and landscape. One example of such a scheme is an exciting project which was started in 1998 when sheep grazing was removed from Cwm Idwal NNR in Snowdonia. Many know Cwm Idwal through climbing on the Slabs or the Gribin Facet or walking through on route to the Glyderiau and many take it for granted that it is an NNR, but why? Obviously it is important geologically, but much of the Cwm supports vegetation simi- lar to that found on other mountains. What is special about its vegetation? A closer look shows that many of its cliffs and rocks support arctic-alpine plant species and the fact that many of these species are on the edge of their Euro- pean distribution in Snowdonia gives them special signifi- cance here. These plants are damaged by high levels of grazing and, over the years, have declined and retreated to more inaccessible locations, out of the reach of grazing ani- mals. The grazing exclusion plots which were erected in the In Partnership With: Cwm in the '60s and '70s show graphically the effects of heavy sheep grazing with the plants inside (even some trees) providing a welcome contrast and splash of colour when EXPERIENCE ERROR - WITHOUT TERROR viewed against the flat green backdrop of the grasslands. Climbing Rock is designed to help you recognise the common The arctic-alpine and cliff ledge vegetation requires little or no grazing, so the removal of grazing animals should al- errors and inefficiencies in your climbing. This entertaining low the cliff-bound plants to spread to adjacent rocky sites video comes complete with a Technical Booklet which helps and the suppressed heaths to spread and flourish. Further- you identify problem areas and make progress to achieve more, the removal of grazing from Cwm Idwal presents a your potential. wonderful opportunity, not only to manage and protect rare plant communities, but also to enable a ‘natural’ vegeta- Additional equipment supplied by: tion succession through woodland, scrub and heath to de- Marlow,Animal, Berghaus velop from the base to the summit of a mountain over a 50 to 100 year period. While this is never going to be a wood- land, due to the altitude and exposure, a scattering of trees and scrub might be an attractive addition to the landscape. To restore some of the diversity which was once present in these mountains, the ideal would be to continue grazing Please send me copies of the Climbing Rock video and booklet at ✃ in most areas, but at a range of intensities, so that one £15 (non members) £12.50 (Members) PAYMENT OPTIONS dominant vegetation type is not replaced with another. 1. If paying by credit card please insert your card details below However, some of these endangered vegetation types firstly need to be restored and this may occasionally mean unpal- atable decisions, such as the erection of temporary fences Card expiry date Issue Nº.(switch only) Valid from (if applicable) in some of our ‘wilder’ landscapes to exclude grazing ani- mals for some years to allow the vegetation to recover. Such Signed Date a decision would be a last resort and in Cwm Idwal, for example, fences have not been erected, but instead shep- herding is employed to try to keep trespassing sheep out of 2. Please make cheques/postal orders payable to: British Mountaineering Council

the NNR. However, perhaps the intrusion of the occasional NAME ...... fence is worth the reward of a more diverse upland environ- ADDRESS ...... ment in Britain. Changes are slow in the uplands, but follow the fortunes ...... of Cwm Idwal over the next few years as saxifrages, bog POSTCODE ...... MEMBERSHIP Nº ...... asphodels and ladies mantles start to flower, spread and Send your completed form and payment to: brighten even the dullest day and see what diversity our British Mountaineering Council, FREEPOST MR9759, Manchester, M20 7AD. mountains can really support. VID003 Tel: 0870 010 4878 Fax: 0161 445 4500

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 43 11/09/2002, 12:12 PM HIGH &light Expeditions, the Lightweight trip and true Alpine Style. What is the Future?

Part One: Stephen Venables, with spadework by Ken Wil- son, discusses the evolution of lightweight Himalayan climb- ing, its key influences and its likely future direction.

ritain is lucky to have developed a tradition of light weight expeditioning going back to early days mountain Beering. In at the start of the “sport” of alpinism in the mid-nineteenth century it was not long before forays were being made to the greater ranges of the Caucasus and the Himalaya, much of which lay conveniently within Britain’s area of political influence at the height of the Empire. The names of Freshfield, Younghusband, Conway, Moorcroft, Everest, Bruce, Godwin Austen, Montgomerie resonate down through the ages as intrepid explorer/mountaineer/surveyors who delved into the great Himalayan ranges during those early years – all recorded in Kenneth Mason’s classic Himalayan history Abode of Snow. Having identified the great mountains and pinpointed their approaches it was not long before sporting mountaineers (usu- ally with their European guides), hotfoot from their Alpine and Caucasus adventures, began to tackle the mountains themselves. Among a range of projects were major attempts on K2 (1902, 1909), Nanga Parbat (1895) and Kangchenjunga (1895, 1905). There were also a variety of more modest expeditions including C.F.Meade’s near successful attempt on Kamet (1913). Perhaps two key events can be singled out that typify this period – the Duke of Abruzzi’s great Karakoram expedition of 1909 and the Longstaff / Bruce / Mumm expedition to the Nanda Neve, Meade, Kellas and others) it is fair to say that these two Devi region in 1907. These made a considerable impact. Abruzzi well-publicised ventures – Abruzzi’s Karakoram campaign and had taken Vittorio Sella on his trip whose photographs of such Longstaff’s lightning dash up Trisul – came to typify the differ- mountains as K2, Paiju, Mustagh Tower, the Gasherbrums, ent styles of mountaineering for the next half century – the large Chogolisa and Broad Peak left a profound and enduring impres- well-organised expedition, served by armies of porters contrast- sion. Longstaff later wrote a classic book – This My Voyage – in ing with the fast-moving, cross-country trip, living off the land which he related his Garhwal travels in an inspiring manner, and aided by locally recruited men. introducing Changabang with an evocative full-frontal photo- The Great War intervened, its carnage and later austerities slow- graph, investigating the Rishi Gorge and finally pulling off a ing the advance of mountaineering in the subsequent years. Again rapid lightweight ascent of Trisul 23,360ft. the British were the ones best placed for recovery because of Although there were many other interesting expeditions during their Empire position in India and associated influence on Tibet. the pre-World War 1 decade (by the likes of the Workmans, This enabled them to mount repeated expeditions to Everest via

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 44 04/09/2002, 2:37 PM Steve Sustad on steep mixed ground on the first ascent of the North Face of Changabang in 1997. This fine rockface initially noted and popularised by Tom Longstaff has proved a magnet for alpine-style climbers in recent years. Credit: Mick Fowler.

Sikkim and Tibet – ponderous affairs which proved that Everest, “Was it twelve peaks that you climbed particularly from the north, is actually a very awkward moun- tain. Nevertheless many of the climbers performed very well, far in 1935” he was asked during an inter- above 8000 metres, with the most basic equipment and no oxy- view shortly before his death. There gen assistance, providing inspiration for later pioneers such as Hermann Buhl and Reinhold Messner. The original Everest re- was a long pause while the aging brain connaissance in 1921, and a later reconnaissance trip (led by cogs slipped slowly into place. “No, it Shipton) in 1935, proved the exception to the dogged intensity of the struggles on the mountain itself. These two reconnais- was twenty-two” came the response sances were notable for the simple reason that they ranged around accompanied by a weak but percepti- the great peak rather than on it, gaining passes, ascending vantage point summits – moving fast, traveling light. Charles Warren, the ble chuckle.

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doctor on the 1935 trip, was in the thick of these swashbuckling "Wastl thus joined the ranks of plucky travels. “Was it twelve peaks that you climbed in 1935” he was asked during an interview shortly before his death. There was a mountaineering dogs – a distinguished long pause while the aging brain cogs slipped slowly into place. “No, it was twenty-two” came the response accompanied by a group that includes Coolidge’s weak but perceptible chuckle. Tschingel and Muir’s Stikine, though in These fast moving ascents of Mallory, Bruce, Nyima and their friends in 1921 and Shipton, Warren, Tilman et al in 1935 enliv- Wastl’s case he might reasonably claim ened the otherwise repetitive Everest events. It is doubtful whether to be the first alpine-style canine any modern expedition has knocked off virgin summits with quite the same nonchalant abandon. As for the big set pieces (1922, Himalayan climber" 1924, 1933, 1936 and 1938) given the limited equipment and knowledge at the time, there were comparatively few cases of ascent – the final summit tower being completed by Adi Göttner frostbite and only two expeditions tarnished by death – seven and Karl Wien with Bauer, Günther Hepp and the dog remaining sherpas killed by avalanche in 1922 ; two porters and Mallory below in close support following a high final camp using bivouac and Irvine killed in 1924. sacs. On the harder parts of the descent Wastl adopted a novel The experience was worse on the other great peaks. An Interna- technique. He waited until the roped climbers were spaced below tional trip to Kangchenjunga in 1930 (which included Frank Smythe) him and then jumped from climber to climber, repeating the pro- baulked at the serious avalanche danger (which killed the sirdar cess after the climbers moved down further. Wastl thus joined the Chettan and came close to wiping out sixteen others) and turned ranks of plucky mountaineering dogs – a distinguished group that instead to a series of less serious ascents of satellite peaks including includes Coolidge’s Tschingel and Muir’s Stikine, though in Wastl’s Jonsong Peak (24,344ft). A 1931 Kangchenjunga venture by Paul case he might reasonably claim to be the first alpine-style canine Bauer (building on an earlier attempt in 1929) also experienced Himalayan climber. tragedy (one climber and one sherpa) and cut its losses when con- The Siniolchu success closely followed the 1935 winter first fronted by awesome difficulties. In 1936 Bauer returned with a ascent of another Kanchenjunga satellite – Kabru (24,002ft) – by small group to make a scintillating alpine-style ascent of Siniolchu Charlie Cooke (solo on the final climb), a fine achievement that (22,600ft), a captivating peak made famous by one of Sella ‘s early also needs reappraisal in the annals. Nanga Parbat proved an photos. Four climbers and a local dog (Wastl – uninvited) made the anvil that broke some of Europe’s finest climbers. In 1895 Mum- Smythe (L) and Shipton (R) after their 1933 Everest attempt. mery, Hastings and Collie made a fine lightweight attempt on the Credit: Smythe Collection. Diamir Face but Mummery and two porters later disappeared while trying to cross a high pass to mount another attempt on the Rakhiot Face. Worse was to come. In 1934 a very strong German expedition had a disastrous retreat from the Silver Saddle in a storm when Willo Welzenbach and Willy Merkl and four sherpas died and other porters narrowly escaped some with frostbite injuries. Mountain commentators at the time looked on this as the scandalous consequence of overambition and recently there have been even more damning revelations from Ang Tsering (the last survivor) in the new book Tigers in the Snow. This tragedy was to pale into insignificance when matched against the demise of the 1937 trip in which seven climbers and nine sherpas died when their camp was engulfed in an ice avalanche. This included three of those that had been involved in the first ascent of Siniolchu the previous year. The whole ethical question of placing sherpa porters at risk when serving major expeditions came sharply under scrutiny after these twin German disasters, a scandal that gained even more strength after the sad demise of three sherpas on K2 in 1939 while trying to reach the stricken Dudley Wolfe, who had become stranded high on the peak . The sherpas were led in their heroic “mercy dash” by the respected sirdar Pasang Kikuli (Nanga Parbat survivor in 1934 and a key figure on the 1936 Nanda Devi expedition). A few days before the disaster Fritz Wiessner achieved some astonishingly hard oxygen-less climbing very close to the summit of K2; but his leadership was questionable. To many critics he was overambitious and the expedition was only brought to a halt high on the mountain by the caution of Pasang Dawa Lama but unfortunately not sufficiently early to save Wolfe and his brave rescuers. Their sacrifice remains as a lasting memo- rial to sherpa honour. Thus the record of big expeditions during the 1930s was grim … they appeared to attract all the factors (ambition, national prestige, overcommitment) that could combine into a tragedy. Conversely lighter and more frugal enterprises, providing they involved skilled and fit mountaineers, had a far better record – climbers could concentrate on the matter in hand, free from the distractions and unnecessary complications frequently suffered by a big expedition.

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The highlights of this type of free- range climbing during the interwar years are Tilman’s and Shipton’s Rishi Gorge expedition in 1934, their aforementioned Everest travels in 1935 and their stun- ningly wide-ranging Karakoram explo- rations of 1937 (described vividly in Blank on the Map). This fabulous trip, celebrated in an equally fabulous book, has proved inspirational for many post- war explorers. It inspired Diemberger to penetrate the Shaksgam, a string of highly talented climbers to tackle the Latok peaks, the whole Trango Tower saga including the similar rock essays on nearby Uli Biaho Tower and what has become known as Shipton Spire. The climbs on the Ogre, Sosbun Brakk and even the north side of K2 can be traced back to the influence of this trip. And there is more to come as the many of the peaks that were identified along- side the Skamri Glacier on the Chinese side of the range, such as The Fangs, A previously unpublished photo of members of the 1935 Everest Reconnaissance Expedition. still await detailed investigation. Shipton From L to R (BACK) Dan Bryant, Edmond Wigram, Charles Warren, Michael Spender. could barely conceal his excitement at (FRONT) Bill Tilman, Eric Shipton and Edwin Kempson. Credit: Shipton Collection. the climax of the expedition as the party reached the watershed area of passes linking the Skamri Glacier first ascent of Nanda Devi (25645ft/7816m) – the highest Hima- to Snow Lake: layan peak to be climbed until 1950. This stunning success topped the 1931 Kamet ascent. But in 1937 Smythe and Peter Oliver “Now at last we were in a position, still with many weeks’ food and a small sherpa team enjoyed a fabulously successful light- at our disposal, to make a prolonged exploration of this exciting weight trip to the Zaskar range south of Kamet, climbing Mana country, and to indulge in that most absorbing of all forms of Peak and Nilgiri in exemplary style (and also making strong at- mountaineering – the search for passes which lead from one tempts on Rataban, Nilkanth and Dunagiri) – climbs described in unknown region to another. But there was a very large field to be Smythe’s fine book The Valley of Flowers. covered, and so many alternative plans, that it was hard to choose Other Garhwal highlights of this period were the Swiss and between them. For this reason we decided to split into three self Polish expeditions of 1939 led by André Roch and Adam contained groups, each with its separate objective ….” Karpinski. Both recorded success and tragedy. The Swiss team made a host of first ascents, notably Hathi Parbat, Gauri Parbat Tilman and his team crossed Snow Lake and a pass north of and Dunagiri (7066m), but finally overreached themselves on Sosbun Brak to explore the ranges around Hikmul and Ganchen, Chaukhamba when they were avalanched and two porters died. Auden’s party crossed to the Nobande Sobande glacier system The Poles climbed Nanda Devi East (7434m) after a tough and Shipton and Spender concentrated their attentions on the struggle but then turned their attention to Tirsuli where Karpinski Braldu Glacier to the north. and Stefan Bernadzikiewicz died in a high camp, buried by an Shipton was so enthralled by the region that he returned with avalanche. For British readers perhaps the most interesting of all another strong survey group in 1939 to put a base camp on Snow the lightweight successes of this period was the 1933 first ascent Lake and from there investigate the surrounding ranges. Its main of Bhagirathi III (which they mistakenly called Satopanth II) by result was a greater understanding of the intricacies and possibili- Colin Kirkus and Charles Warren, both on their first Himalayan ties of the Ogre and Latok massifs. One photograph of the Choktoi trip with the great Liverpudlian Tibetologist, Marco Pallis. Mod- face of Latok in Upon That Mountain had the same inspirational ern climbers descending the Kirkus/Warren route after climbing effect as seeing a Himalayan Grandes Jorasses with its Walker one of Bhagirathi’s big modern rock routes) have been impressed Spur for the first time. Despite several powerful attempts by by its sections of hard rock climbing done on sight in 1933 and British and American teams during the last twenty years the described in Kirkus’s Lets Go Climbing. route remains unclimbed. The writings of Shipton, Tilman and Smythe in particular, Shipton and Tilman might thus reasonably be hailed as the true following on from Longstaff, are essential reading for prospec- popularisers of lightweight mountain exploration. They did not tive lightweight expeditioner. Whether any really clear-cut line invent the idea – nor were they its only exponents – but the sheer can be drawn between a heavyweight expedition (with porters, scope of their explorations and the quality of their books con- cooks etc) and a true alpine-style trip is a much-debated ques- tinue to enthrall and inspire. Though their actual ascents were tion. Many relatively frugal, yet major ascents have resorted to modest (apart from the orgy of peak-bagging around Everest in some fixed roping and stockpiling to achieve their ends. Examples 1935), the discoveries on their trips and the strategies and projects of this type of climb are Kanchenjunga (1979), our Everest suggested for the future were immense. The Garhwal explora- Kangshung Face venture (1988), Changabang (1974, 1976) and tions of Smythe’s Kamet expedition (in which Shipton played a the now legendary Ogre ascent of 1977, only recently repeated prominent role) were also of great importance. Indeed the after many failed attempts. Garhwal proved the ideal venue for mountaineers in the 1930s Alpine-style purists like the late Alan Rouse (Jannu 1978, with peaks of just the right size for the experience, equipment Kongur 1981) and Mick Fowler (Spantik 1987, Taweche1995, and knowledge of the day. In 1936 Tilman and three other Brits Changabang 1997) may well look from the lofty heights of true joined with Charles Houston’s Harvard quartet to pull off the purism at these flawed ventures. They may be right but I feel

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 47 04/09/2002, 1:29 PM HIMALAYA

that the true credo should be a generally lightweight approach to versions of the Bezingi Traverse in the Caucasus on peaks like climb the mountain in the safest and most logical and most en- Lhotse/Everest (the Kangshung Horseshoe?), Kangchenjunga/ joyable way. I, for one, like to have enough to eat, and some- Jannu, all the Gasherbrums, and Nanga Parbat. where comfortable to sleep, and aim to return alive. I am happy The Broad Peak traverse was done in the eighties by Kukuczka to compromise to achieve those ends. However, the main thing is and Kurtyka in pure alpine style, proving that such things can be to climb the route in the most logical and efficient way. Some- done at 8000 metres. So far no one has managed to do the same times this will be a fast, no-turning-back push (as employed on thing at nearly 9000 metres (the Russian traverse of Shisha Pangma 1982) but on other occasions some pre-prepara- Kangchenjunga was a massive, oxygen-assisted, team effort with tion will be sensible. It is the degree and suitability of such careful pre-placing of high camps). expediency that forms the kernel of this debate. Andy Fanshawe As for the really technical mixed/rock climbs on peaks over and I weighed all of this in the balance in Himalaya Alpine Style; 7000 metres such as the Ogre … people talk a lot about alpine- many of the climbs we described were not actually achieved in style but few genuinely achieve it. A notable exception was the true alpine style – but were alpine style in spirit. Saunders/Fowler ascent of Spantik’s Golden Pillar (with one Certainly there are many Himalayan climbs, such as Messner’s cache half way up) in 1987. Most people, faced with routes of solo ascent of the Diamir Face on Nanga Parbat , where alpine- similar altitude and difficulty, have ended up doing quite a lot of style is the best and safest option to minimise exposure to objec- jumaring. And no one has yet – despite all the talk – even begun tive danger. Where the future will lie on the bigger and more to get to grips with the ultimate high-altitude technical challenges technical projects remains open to speculation. Already French, such as the North Face Direct on Jannu, the North Spur of Polish, Spanish and Slovenian teams have made or attempted big Masherbrum or the West Face Direct on Makalu. climbs of this type. The steady improvements in food, fuel and While most of us content ourselves with amiable wanderings equipment will allow bolder and bolder ascents using snow holes, amongst the easier, unknown, unclimbed lower peaks of the lightweight tents and (on steep rock) portaledges. Good training, Himalaya – or stir ourselves to join the queues on the increas- acclimatisation and speed will also be a factor, particularly on ice ingly crowded “voies normales” up Everest, Cho Oyu, Ama where very rapid movement is now possible because of im- Dablam and the like – it will be interesting to see what the proved techniques and equipment (prominently displayed on groundbreakers get up to. No doubt much ink will be spilt – and the recent Ama Dablam ascent by Jules Cartwright and Rich much hot air blasted through the pubs, lecture halls and chai Cross). But it is well to understand that the higher the peak, the houses frequented by Himalayan climbers – but sooner or later tougher the project. Altitude is a harsh examiner of physique, the stars will emerge, redefining what is possible. In the mean- stamina and acclimatisation; technical ability allows speed but it time, for the sheer joy of Himalayan wandering and exploration, does not guarantee survival. Rock climbing, in particular, be- we have the books of people like Longstaff, Tilman, Smythe and comes extremely arduous at the higher altitudes. Shipton to inspire us. Notwithstanding these problems we are now surely looking Look out for Issue 29 - Who might the future stars be? forward to an era of the super traverse? These will be Himalayan Ian Parnell takes out his crystal ball... Order Form Himalaya Lightweight To order, just add the appropriate prices and complete your personal details.

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40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 48 06/09/2002, 9:10 AM the famous five.. British Mountaineering since Everest Trango Tower The 1975 and '76 expeditions to this granite monolith had all the characters, severe technicalities and a surreal jammed leg epic. In '75 Mo Anthoine, Bill Barker, Martin Boysen, Joe Brown, Ian McNaught Davis and Dave Potts got to within 250m of the top before Boysen managed to get his leg stuck in a jam- ming crack! For three hours his compan- ions struggled to free him before resign- ing themselves to a round trip to base camp to fetch leg extraction equipment. Fortunately Boysen freed himself shortly after but the stress of the epic led to retreat and Anthoine’s classic statement “Trango Tower is still unclimbed, but next Brendan Murphy, day 2 of the 1997 ascent of Changabang. year – given some fine weather, reason- Credit: Andy Cave able porters and a thin legged leader it will probably go”. And indeed it did with the core of the team up for the rematch. One of the trickier challenges facing the team putting Boysen (who still led the offending crack), Anthoine, Brown together the Helly Hansen National Mountaineering Ex- and new boy Ian Howells reached the top. hibition was to identify five post-1953 British expedi- tions that epitomized the developments in mountaineer- Baintha Brakk (Ogre) ing styles over the past 50 years. Perhaps the most imposing of all the 7000m peaks, the Ogre was the ideal challenge for Doug Scott’s 1977 expedi- Not an easy task and in the end the team focused on five tion. Scott and Bonington made the central summit, setting peaks around which the story could be told; Kanchenjunga, the scene for the famous epic descent, one of mountain- Annapurna, Trango Tower, Biantha Brakk (Ogre) and eering’s classic tales. Shortly after beginning the abseil Changabang. It could just as easily have been others but descent Scott broke both his legs and Bonington shattered these lists are supposed to spark debate. The selection is his ribs, and when they eventually reached the lower camps, described in the Exhibitions’ ‘Camp 4’ and is accompanied A FANTASTIC OPPORTUNITY TO OWN THREE DEFINATIVE LIGHTWEIGHTit was a long EXPEDITION wait for assistance to arrive. Over twenty at- by a video sequence showing Chris Bonington and George CLIMBING BOOKS. tempts later the Ogre finally got its second ascent in 2001 Band discussing the post war evolution of British Mountain- from Thomas Huber’s talented continental team. eering with the unlikely figure of John Peel and a nice cup of tea – something not to be missed. But why were these five Changabang chosen? A mountain where the routes tell much of the tale of British mountaineering from 1974 onward. The first ascent team Kanchengunga had included Bonington, Scott, Dougal Haston, Boysen and Although in the style of the Everest ‘53 trip, Charles Evans four Indian climbers led by Balwant Sandhu. They climbed 1955 expedition was a lightweight affair with limited expec- a serious line from the south and only Balwant made it to tations, but the expedition made surprisingly fast progress the top. The next year Pete Boardman and Joe Tasker made and by 13th May the way to the top was open. Band and the first ascent of the West Face in two man capsule style. Joe Brown thus became the only Britons to make the first The route was rightly hailed as a milestone, and the most ascent of an 8000m peak. They reached the top at 2.45pm difficult Himalayan ascent of the day. Two years later the on May 25th with Brown having climbed a challenging VD shorter but very technical South Face was climbed by the crack just below the summit. Twenty four years later Doug super talented team of Voytek Kurtyka, John Porter, Alex Scott, Pete Boardman, Joe Tasker and Georges Bettembourg McIntyre and Kritzof Zureck. But due to politics Changabang took the lightweight ethos to a new level with their auda- had to wait 14 years for another attempt after an Australian cious ascent of the mountains north side. They fixed rope visit in 1982. Once again it was a British team and this time on the steep lower section but climbed the upper part in a it was the steep North Face to be attempted. After an abor- committing alpine style. After several attempts Tasker, tive attempt in 1996, Roger Payne, Brendan Murphy, and Boardman and Scott snatched success on a perfect sum- Julie-Ann Clyma returned in 1997 with Andy Cave, Mick mit day. This ascent was at the very cutting edge and only Fowler and Steve Sustad, to make the first ascent in impec- rarely since has a new route of such scale been climbed in cable alpine style. Cave and Murphy made the summit but such style. Certainly one of the greatest ascents in the ragically Murphy was killed during an epic descent and the Himalaya - ever. summit group were out for a harrowing 16 days.

Annapurna The Helly Hansen National Mountaineering This Bonington trip was amongst the first to attempt the Exhibition is open every day and is a perfect steep faces of the worlds’ biggest peaks. The climb involved addition to a trip to the Lakes, so get up there much fixed rope and camps, but such was the difficulty of the climbing that the crack team was tested to the very limit. and enjoy a complete mountaineering weekend. Don Whillans and Dougal Haston managed the Summit dash BMC members get a discounted ticket of £3.50 in poor weather which gave rise to the classic radio conver- (normal adult price £5.50). Visit www.mountain- sation - Bonington: “Did you manage to get out today” - exhibition.co.uk. And if you're interested in Whillans: “Aye We’ve just climbed Annapurna” Britains rich mountaineering heritage don't miss "A Brief History of British Mountaineering", part of a great special offer on page 36! BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27 4 9

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 49 04/09/2002, 1:30 PM

MLTB

Sweet Moderation, by Andy Say So there we were. Eight people standing on the Carneddau. Weather wasn’t bad and the visibility was quite good, just another day on the hill with a few more miles to do and views to savour. Then Carlo said, “So, exactly where are we?” and we all came back to reality. A difficult relocation exercise that brought home to the candidates just how much they had learnt. And, because Carlo had chosen well, work- ing out where we all thought we were was no easy matter. The six people who were being trained on the ML course all managed a reasonable fix and then we moved off measur- ing distance as we went by pacing in order to confirm our guesses. Carlo was the staff member working with this group on the first day of their two day expedition and was reinforc- ing the lessons learnt earlier in the week as well as intro- ducing some more sophisticated techniques. And I, well I was the spy from head office. Most of the year someone from the MLTB is out observing the running of our courses by one of our accredited provid- ers. We will work alongside the course staff either quietly keeping out of the way or, more usually, chipping in as an extra trainer. Sometimes, by invitation, there are ‘cross- border raids so that Scots officers look at our courses and we look at the Northern Irish for example. All of the mod- erators have a broad experience of working on the MLTB schemes and contribute to training workshops and, through their work as moderators, develop an insight into the vari- The most reliable way to light a fire or stove ous ways in which providers can reach the outcome we are £12 including P&P and VAT all after – a good course. The Board has a target of seeing

MasterCard around a third of all providers every year - about 70 courses. ™ What we are looking for are courses that cover the syllabus; conform to the Board requirements in terms of facilities, staff numbers and qualifications and work in appropriate locations. On training courses we hope that people leave with developed skills and an awareness of the work needed and on an assessment course we are looking for fair out- comes that are understood by all concerned. What we don’t expect to find is that everybody does the same thing in the ADVENTURE CENTRE same way; the courses are allowed to develop according to 240 Manchester Road, Warrington, WA1 3BE the weather, the terrain and the skills of the staff. Tel: 01925 411385 www.cheaptents.com If you are administering a national award scheme it is vital that all trainees have learnt pretty much the same thing and that all assessors are looking for those things. What is very Terra Nova, Berghaus, reassuring is that we find that a consensus about subject , matter, plus some exemplary training and learning going on The North Face, Mammut, WildLife Country, Systems Outdoor pursuits Vango, Meindl, Buffalo, out there. The depth of knowledge demonstrated by some SUPERSTORE of the staff working on the courses never fails to impress Late night open Lowe Alpine, Paramo, Vaude, and we get so used to being told by the candidates that, Thursday to 8pm Karrimor, Sprayway, Rab, Sundays to 3.30 Snugpak, Salomon ‘the course is fantastic,’ that we could fill in the ‘Candi- Closed Mondays dates’ comments on the report form before we arrive. and many Sometimes, and this is refreshingly rare, there are things more. that we are not happy with. It might be the programming, the number of staff available or the calibre of the candi- dates. We then discuss with the provider why things are going the way they are. Often the explanation is simple and is just one of those unavoidable accidents. On the few occasions when the matter seems to be more fundamental we ask that new programmes are designed or that staffing is tightened up. The remarkably small number of niggles that WALKING we have to deal with are a testimony to the quality of our CLIMBING providers and the efforts of the moderation team who spread CAMPING sweetness, light and good practice wherever they go. And Carlo and his group went on into the Carneddau. Camping in a high cwm, discussing the flowers we found, practicing our distance measuring and direction finding skills, enjoying the mix of blowing cloud and dramatic scenery, WE HAVE MOVED navigating into the small hours in darkness and low cloud and rain and all the typical Mountain Leader type things To Manchester Rd. (A57), opposite the cemetary. that you do on courses. Later the next day I wrote him a On-road parking plus car park, 2 minutes walk glowing moderation report. But not too glowing, of course. away on Marsh House Lane. We wouldn’t want him thinking he’s special would we?

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27 5 1

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 51 11/09/2002, 4:14 PM AGENDA

Management Committee Summary Getting Involved! For 26 June 2002. The Honorary Treasurer reported that Find out more about Area Meetings and all the work of the trading activities were up on forecast and that a range of BMC areas on the BMC website. Just click on "Getting In- new financial controls had been introduced following the volved" and select an area. You can view all upcoming and 2001 budget defecit. Sir Chris Bonington and John past meetings, download agendas and minutes, and find Innerdale gave an update on the National Mountaineering maps of all the venues. And there's area news, volunteer Exhibition. They advised that it had been getting a great vacancies, and a list of key area contacts. Making your response and all the team were working hard to ensure it views known or helping out is now even easier than before. remained a solid enterprise. It was agreed that the Man- agement Committee would continue to support the exhibi- tion throughout the Summer. A working group from the Train- Refunds - Multiple Club Affiliation ing Advisory Group had been established to report on cur- Thanks to all club members who did not claim back multiple rent working arrangements with the Adventureworks part- subs from BMC last year. Once again this money went nership and to agree on the nature of future partnerships towards the many good causes that BMC supports. If you and policy statements. Reports were given by each of the are currently affiliated to the BMC via more than one club Area Committee Representatives regarding current events now is the time to reclaim your additional membership subs and issues in the areas. It was agreed that the 2003 AGM for 2002 should you so wish to do so. Please notify the st would be held at a suitable location in rural Peak District. A BMC’s Membership Services Team in writing before the 1 paper indicating the Executive Committee members areas December 2002, stating which clubs you are presently af- of responsibility for 2002/3 was circulated for information. filiated to. The Management Committee agreed for Dave Turnbull to sign the Racial Equality Charter for Sport. A draft Club Leader Area Meetings Calendar 2002 Policy Statement was circulated for comment. It was agreed Dates and venues may be subject to change. Please check to circulate this document to Area website on a regular basis. Committees and clubs for further feedback. It was reported that the recent International Meet held at Plas y Brenin was a well attended successful event. Ian Hey has been appointed as the new Technical and Safety Officer and that interviews were scheduled to take place on 12 July 2002 for a Youth & Equity Officer. 3 new clubs were accepted.

52 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

40445_SUMMIT_27.pmd 52 12/09/2002, 10:02 AM EVENTS

including: the BMC Technical Committee programme for Student Seminar 2002 2003 and beyond, UIAA standards work in progress , Cram- 5-6th October - Plas y Brenin pons - the new BMC advice booklet, and recent failures In partnership with Cotswold Essential Outdoor and sup- and ongoing investigations. Further information and regis- ported by Mountain Training Trust. tration forms available from the office or website. Designed for student-based walking and climbing clubs, this gives senior post holders the opportunity to improve their club practices and to help ensure safe and environmentally Boardman and Tasker Lecture sustainable enjoyment of our mountains. A revised format 7pm - 8th November - RGS, London will incorporate more hill walking options and new sessions On 17th May 1982 Peter Boardman and Joe Tasker were on club transport, sources of funding and organising over- last seen on Mount Everest. Their deaths marked the end seas trips, with workshops on Saturday and practical ses- of a remarkable era of British mountaineering, but they left sions Sunday. In addition, there will be sessions covering two legacies; their innovative style, and the books they left legal responsibilities, care & maintenance of pooled equip- behind. Their accomplishments will be recalled in an illus- ment, event planning, introducing novices, navigation, group trated lecture at the Royal Geographical Society by Chris use of climbing walls and practical training on the hill, crag Bonington and Charles Clarke with John Barry, John or on the wall will be provided. If you have not yet booked Boardman, Paul Braithwaite, Maria Coffey, Jim Curran, Hi- your place on the seminar contact [email protected] lary Rhodes, Doug Scott, Paul Tasker and Martin Wragg. This fund raising event for the Boardman Tasker Charitable Trust for mountain literature will include slides and films, BMC Huts Seminar and is just £15. To book send payment and an s.a.e. to the 3:30pm - 19th October - Plas y Brenin Trust at St Helen’s, 1 Undershaft, London, EC3A 8JX. The seminar will deal with building and fire regulations, legal liability, insurance, developing the rural economy and ac- cess to huts for individual members. Anyone involved with Festival of Mountaineering Literature managing or planning a club hut is encouraged to attend. 9th November, University of Leeds The seminar, which includes a hot meal at 8pm. is free. For The theme of this year’s Festival is the honouring of several full details see the BMC website. For registration forms contributors to our sport and literature. In particular, Walter please email [email protected] Bonatti is returning to speak 18 years since he memorably addressed a BMC Buxton conference, and Lynn Hill is plan- ning to attend to talk about her new book. It is also twenty BMC Technical Conference years since the disappearance of Peter Boardman and Joe 2-3rd November - Plas y Brenin Tasker, and the festival has invited Jim Curran to look back This year's Technical Conference is on the 2-3rd Nov at on the history of the Boardman Tasker Award. Tickets are Plas y Brenin, and is an essential event for anyone involved £20 each, and a full programme and booking form can be in outdoor retail, trade or training. The format will be a mix- found at www.festivalofmountaineeringliterature.co.uk ture of lectures, workshops and Q&A sessions on each day

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LAST THOUGHTS

EXOTIC EXCHANGE n early May this year, the BMC offered a fantastic A personal account of the BMC / Mountain Club Iopportunity; an exotic week away aimed at climbers of South Africa (KZN section) climbing exchange who don’t fit into the ‘elite’ category, and as sure as trip in May 2002 by Tessa Gough apples is apples, that’s me!

Being sent off to South Africa to meet other British climb- The climbing at ‘Monties’ was enjoyable, with its eclectic ers and our hosts for the week was definitely an adventure, mix of slabs, cracks, long traverses and steep faces. The but from the first day it was clear that a fantastic time lay in ease of access makes this area popular for after-work climb- store. The climbing started at White Umflozi, three hours ing and consequently the routes are all well established, so drive from our base in Durban, and after leaving the tarred it’s a great place to visit - particularly if you are climbing road to bounce along a dirt track, we arrived at our ‘rustic unguided, as it really is impossible to get lost! hut’ accommodation. The view of the Umflozi with its river- Our final destination was certainly the most striking of the strewn boulders and palm-topped cliffs was our first taste trip, the Drakensberg Mountains, a dramatic escarpment of the legendary South African settings we were to encoun- over 180km long and 150m high marking the border be- ter. This sandstone and quartzite crag has been formed over tween South Africa and Lesotho. The climbs top out at over the millennia by the erosive nature of the river, and conse- 3000m (think Stanage on a grand scale!) and the highest quently can be extremely polished in places, but there are point is Sentinel Peak at 3200m, which was to be our final plenty of worthwhile routes from SA grade 12 (Severe) up- climb as a group. The most popular route is the Angus wards. Although after two days we were sorry to leave the Leppan, at grade 14/15 over six pitches, but by far the tranquillity of Umflozi, the prospect of seeing other areas boldest was the Southeast Arête, which involved several and perhaps enjoying a little shade spurred the group on. committing pitches of around grade 20. Jo George and Kate Kloof Gorge was the next destination, a steep-sided, veg- Arnold learnt the hard way about how freeze-thaw causes etated sandstone valley close to Durban. A short abseil in destabilisation, with five rock falls during their ascent. brought us to the “Boneyard” and the foot of a number of Returning to Durban after all the excitement of the sport routes - the friendly grade range and solid bolts made Drakensberg was quite sobering. (Unlike that evening!). It the day feel eerily like being at the wall. But the post-workout was great to meet up with the various hosts who had been scramble back was accompanied by a breath-taking African so affable during the week; the trip wouldn’t have been the sunset - something you rarely find indoors! same without all their efforts. And of course even though I Monteseel was next on the agenda, and we were whisked spent a further five weeks in South Africa, there’s still so away to a privately run hut conveniently situated for the much to see – I think this could be the start of a very lengthy next day’s climbing. The crag overlooks the spectacular and affair! appropriately named Valley of a Thousand Hills, and the descent path passes directly through a township in the val- YOUR TURN NEXT? ley bottom. The presence of non-climbing locals has led to friction in the past with stories of unaccompanied kit going Here’s another fantastic offer! The MCSA invites climbers missing and over-exuberant begging, but despite all pre- to participate in a rock climbing meet from 15-23rd March conceptions, I found all the areas of South Africa we visited '03, based in Du Toit’s mountains in the Klein Drakensteins to be surprisingly safe. Of course at Monteseel, as with all near Cape Town. The area offers spectacular trad climbing places, it paid to stick to the ‘rules’ we generally live by in and scrambling of every grade, and there are many other the UK; not leaving bags unattended on a busy thorough- crags nearby for bouldering, alpine style and sport routes fare or bumbling around alone at night etc. And from a so- and canyoning. The BMC can nominate up to 10 people to cial perspective, giving hand-outs to the many people who attend this event. Transport and accommodation in SA will ask doesn’t seem to be productive - far better to make a be provided by MCSA, so the only cost is getting to Cape donation to a reputable charity or invest in some of the Town plus food, fuel and petrol. Climbers of every ability numerous locally made trinkets. Just like buying the Big may apply, so register your interest with a personal profile Issue here at home, the same principle applies. and activity CV by email to [email protected] or post (LEFT) Sunset at Tafelberg, Cederberg Range. FAO Ian Hey at the office address. (RIGHT) An Exotic plant! Credit: Dave Brown. 62 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 27

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