Tracing, Cataloguing, Indexing: Reflections on the Joachim And
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Alpine Journal
• THE ALPINE JOURNAL Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255 THE • A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB VOLUME 49 (NOS. 254 AND 255) 1 937 EDITED BY E. L. STRUTT PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CLUB 74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W. 1 1937 CONTENTS PAGE ALPINE AcciDENTs IN I937 . • • • • • • 282 ALPINE CLUB 'At Home' • • • • • • • • . ISI Dinner . • • • • • • • • . ISI Gifts to . • • • • • • • • . 271 Library . • • • • • • • • 14I, 302 Members Deaths • • 108, 12I, ISO, ISI, 1s2, 210, 248, 27I, 282, 308 n, 309, 3 IO Elected • • • • • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 310 Honorary Deaths . • 248, 2S9, 27I, 309, 3IO Elected . • • . 121, IS2, 27I New Premises . • • . I SO Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIAM) • • . I2I, 27I Officers Elected . • • . IS I Proceedings . • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 3IO ALPINE JOURNAL . • • . 27I ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Carstensz Massif, The, I936. By A. H. Colijn . I77 Chomolhari. By F. S. Chapman . 203 Climbing in the 'Sixties and the 'Seventies. By C. Wilson . I67 Complaints and Confessions of an Old Mountaineer. By P. Montandon . ss Dachstein Range, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . 242 D.u.CE.A.-V., The, in the Caucasus. By R. Schwarzgruber . 79 Elburz Range, N. Persia, The German Expedition in. By D. L. Rusk . 2 4S Elie de Montgolfier's Climb on Mt. Blanc. By Claire- Eliane Engel . 70 Gebel Gharib, The Wrong Way up. By G. W. Murray . 228 German Sikkim Expedition, I936, The. By Paul Bauer . 4I Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim, Ascent of . I03 In the Footsteps of Dr. Paccard. By E. H. Stevens . I Julian Alps, the, A Note on. -
24 Portuguese Alpine Club Clube Nacional De Montanhismo CNM
EUMA member (english name) EUMA member (original name) acronym country web page membership member status since 1 Albanian Mountaineering Federation Federata Shqiptare për Alpinizëm dhe Ngjitje FSHALTM Albania http://fshaltm.org/ Full member 2017 2 Alpine Association of Slovenia Planinska zveza Slovenije PZS Slovenia https://www.pzs.si/ Full member 2017 3 Austrian Alpine Club Österreichischer Alpenverein ÖAV/OeAV Austria https://www.alpenverein.at Full member 2017 4 British Mountaineering Council British Mountaineering Council BMC United Kingdom https://www.thebmc.co.uk/ Full member 2017 5 Climbing and Mountaineering Belgium Federation nationale Vereniging zonder winstoogmerk CMBEL Belgium http://cmbel.blogspot.com/ Full member 2017 6 Croatian Mountaineering Association Hrvatski planinarski savez HPS Croatia http://www.hps.hr/ Full member 2017 7 Czech Mountaineering Federation Český horolezecký svaz CHS Czech Republic https://www.horosvaz.cz/ Full member 2017 8 Federation of French Alpine and Mountain Clubs Fédération française des clubs alpins et de montagne FFCAM France https://www.ffcam.fr/ Full member 2017 9 German Alpine Club Deutscher Alpenverein DAV Germany https://www.alpenverein.de/ Full member 2017 10 Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing Ελληνική Ομοσπονδία Ορειβασίας – Αναρρίχησης EOOA Greece http://www.eooa.gr/ Full member 2017 11 Italian Alpine Club Club Alpino Italiano CAI Italy http://www.cai.it/ Full member 2017 12 Liechtensteiner Alpine Club Liechtensteiner Alpenverein LAV Liechtenstein http://www.alpenverein.li/ -
Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt609nb1bn No online items Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Copyright 2005 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 [email protected] URL: http://libraries.ucsd.edu/collections/sca/index.html Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers MSS 0475 1 Descriptive Summary Languages: English Contributing Institution: Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 Title: Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers Identifier/Call Number: MSS 0475 Physical Description: 19.8 Linear feet(38 archives boxes, 11 card file boxes, 1 records carton, 4 oversize folders, and 1 art bin item) Date (inclusive): 1907-1991 Abstract: Papers of Ulrich Cameron Luft, research physiologist and physician. Luft was an authority in the fields of lung physiology and acclimatization to high altitude. Scope and Content of Collection Papers of Ulrich Cameron Luft, research physiologist and physician. Luft was an authority in the fields of lung physiology and acclimatization to high altitude. The collection contains correspondence, much of it related to Luft's research interests; published and unpublished writings by Luft and others from the 1930s through the 1980s; Luft's experimental and reference files containing notes, calculations, graphs and illustrations; photographs of Luft, his colleagues and family; photographs and slides of equipment and people in research settings; and, medical instruments. Arranged in nine series: 1) BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIAL, 2) CORRESPONDENCE, 3) WRITINGS BY ULRICH LUFT, 4) EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH MATERIAL, 5) TEACHING MATERIAL, 6) HIGH ALTITUDE EXPEDITIONS, 7) WRITINGS OF OTHERS, 8) MEDICAL APPARATUS, and 9) ORIGINALS OF PRESERVATION PHOTOCOPIES. -
An Ascent of the Watzmann Ostwand
An Ascent of the Watzmann Ostwand R ic h a rd N. Me y e r T H E Watzmann, an 8900-foot peak in the Bavarian Alps, domi nates the ancient little town of Berchtesgaden as majestically as the Matterhorn does Zermatt. Many thousands of Americans admire it every year, for Berchtesgaden is a major recreation and vacation center for all the American troops and civilians and their families stationed in Europe. The posh Berchtesgadener Hof, which only a few years ago echoed to the “Heil Hitler” greetings of the Third Reich’s rulers, is now only one of several hotels still under requisi tion by American authorities. There is never a dull moment at Berchtesgaden. Entertainment abounds: all kinds of sports; visits to the bleak, bombed-out resi dences of former Nazi V IP’s; American movies and night clubs; snack bars and real bars. In particular, the American authorities have tried hard to rouse an interest in climbing. The challenge of the peak is always there, an interesting and steep scramble of seven or eight hours with an overnight stay at a comfortable Alpine Club house; and there is a “Watzmann Club” which issues certificates to Amer icans who make the climb. The tour is really worth while, with a fine view and close-ups of magnificent, rugged mountain scenery, not equalled on many a higher and more difficult peak. Despite these well-publicized attractions, the thousands of Amer icans in the valley rarely lift their eyes to the hills. I have been on the Watzmann three times by different routes; and, except my wife and three friends who once accompanied me, I have never seen another American on the mountain or at the cabin. -
Belay Device Recommendation for Single Pitch Climbing
Belay Device Recommendation for Single Pitch Climbing The German Alpine Club (DAV) recommends assisted braking belay devices for belaying single pitch routes in climbing gyms and outdoors. Assisted braking devices offer a safety advantage as compared to manual belay devices. There are different models of assisted braking belay devices on the market. They all have one characteristic in common: In case of a fall they pinch the rope. This is how they assist the belayer’s hand strength. Whether using an assisted braking device or a manual device (e.g. Tube/Munter Hitch): every belay device has specific handling characteristics. Only if you know and are familiar with these characteristics can you belay correctly and avoid errors of application. Qualified training and practice are essential. Crucial issues when belaying with any device: - Always keep a controlling hand on the rope - Practice your device handling before you start belaying - Practice holding falls - Consider the weight difference between climber and belayer - Consider the amount of hand strength required to hold a fall when choosing a device - Choose the right spot for belaying, in particular when the climber is still near the ground - Reduce the amount of slack rope to the utmost, in particular when belaying near the ground - Constantly pay attention What is the advantage of assisted braking belay devices? Especially in gyms and at highly frequented crags, distraction is a serious problem. Inattentiveness may quickly lead to a severe accident. Assisted braking belay devices increase the chance of preventing a fall to the ground despite belaying errors. In particular at artificial climbing walls the route of the rope is often straight so that rope friction is minimal, therefore a large part of the energy of the fall ends up on the belayer. -
1912 the Mountaineers
The Mountaineer. Volume Five Nineteen Hundred Twelve h611, •• , ,, The Mountaineen Sea11le. Wa1hla1100 :J1'.)1'1zec1 bv G oog I e 2,-�a""" ...._� _..,..i..c.. tyJ Vi) Copyright 1912 The Mountaineers Din,tiZ<'d by Google CONTENTS Page Greeting ................... ................................John Muir .......................................... Greeting ..................................................... Enos Mills ........................................ The Higher Functions of a Mountain Club................................................... \ Wm. Frederic Bade.......................... 9 Little Tahoma ............ ............................. .Edmond S. Meany............................ 13 Mountaineer Outing of 1912 on north side of Mt. Rainier....................... Mary Paschall ................................... 14 Itinerary of Outing of 1912................... .Charles S. Gleason........................... 26 The Ascent of Mt. Rainier.................... £. M.Hack ........................................ 28 Grand Park .............................................. 1=dmond S. Meany............................ 36 A New Route up Mt. Rainier.............. 'Jara Keen ........................................ 37 Naches Pass .............................................. Edmond S. Meany....... ,.................... 40 Undescribed Glaciers of Mt. Rainier .. Fran,ois Matthes ............................. 42 Thermal Caves ....................................... J. B. Flett .......................................... 58 Change in Willis -
Library List Oct 2016 by Author.Pdf
A. Arnold-Brown. 1962. Unfolding character. The impact of Gordonstoun. A. Christensen (editor). 1987. Wilderness first aid. A. F. Mummery. 1895. My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. A. F. Mummery. 1974. My Climbs in the Alps and Caucasus. A. Harvard and T. Thompson. 1974. Mountain of Storms. A. K. Lobeck. 1939. Geomorphology: an introduction to the study of landscapes. A.H. Griffin. 1974. Long days in the hills. A.O. Wheeler. 1905. Selkirk Range, The. A.O. Wheeler. 1912. Selkirk Mountains, The. A guide for mountain pilgrims and climbers. A.P. Coleman. 1911. Canadian Rockies, The: new and old trails. A.W. Moore and E.H. Stevens (editors). 1939. Alps in 1864, The. Adrian and Alan Burgess. 1998. Burgess book of lies, The. Adrian and Alan Burgess. 2007. Brotherhood of the rope. The biography of Charles Houston. Advance Rock Climbing Committee, MIT Outing Club. 1956. Fundamentals of rock climbing. Al Burgess and Jim Palmer. 1983. Everest Canada. The ultimate challenge. Alan Blackshaw. 1965. Mountaineering. From hill walking to alpine climbing. Alan Blackshaw. 1973. Mountaineering. Alan Kane. 1999. Scrambles in the Canadian Rockies. Alastair Borthwick. 1989. Always a Little Further: a classic tale of camping, hiking and climbing in Scotland in the thirties. Alexander Mackenzie Trail Association. 1989 - 1996. Newsletter. Alfred Wills. 1937. Wandering Among the High Alps. Alice Purdey, John Halliday, and David and Mary Macaree . 2014. 109 Walks in British Columbia’s Lower Mainland. Allen Steck, Steve Roper, and David Harris (editors). 1999. Ascent. The climbing experience in word and image. Alpine Club of Canada, Vancouver Section. 1959-2012. -
Via Ferrata, I Have Translated Instances of Klettersteig with the Abbreviation VF/KS Throughout
RECOMMENDATION FOR THE CONSTRUCTION OF KLETTERSTEIGS (ALSO KNOWN AS VIA FERRATE) AND WIRE CABLE BELAY SYSTEMS Produced by the German Alpine Club and the Austrian Board of Mountain Safety Editors: Chris Semmel und Florian Hellberg, German Alpine Club Safety Analysis Unit Munich, Germany, 2008 © 2008 Translated from the German by Dave Custer, American Alpine Club Delegate to the UIAA Safety Commission © 2009 Contents Translator’s notes.......................................................................................................................... 3 Introduction................................................................................................................................... 3 1 Planning a VF/KS....................................................................................................................... 3 1.1 Basic considerations................................................................................................................ 4 1.1.1 Definition of terms............................................................................................................... 4 1.1.2 Preparation for VF/KS construction................................................................................. 4 1.2 Mountain sport aspects.......................................................................................................... 5 1.3 Permission/permits................................................................................................................. 6 1.4 Legal considerations….......................................................................................................... -
The Association of British Members of The
THE ASSOCIATION OF BRITISH MEMBERS OF THE SWISS ALPINE CLUB • ? * YEAR BOOK FOR 1961 and Report for 1960 CONTENTS Committee and Officers ... Inside Cover Club Notes 1 Obituary 9 Articles (1) The Matterhorn by the Furggen Ridge The Teufelsgrat ... ............... 10 (2) The Northern Rockies .......................... 15 Alpine Routes in 1960 .................................................. 18 Accounts and Balance Sheet for 1960 ............... 19 Objects of the Association, etc. ... ............... 22 Roll of Honour 1914-1918; 1939-1945 .......................... 26 Officers of the Association since its Formation 27 List of Members of Association and Addresses 30 Kindred Clubs and Some Sections of the S.A.C. 58 OFFICERS OF THE ASSOCIATION, 1961 President: B. L. Richards, g.m. ‘ A C.’ (Interlaken) 1960 Vice-Presidents : Dr. A. W. Barton, ‘ A C.’ (Diablerets) 1959 D. G. Lambley, f.r.C.s., ‘ A C.’ (Monte Rosa), 1960 Hon. Vice Presidents : A. N. Andrews, t.d., ‘ A C.’ (Grindelwald), Hon Secretary, 1912-1928, Hon. Librarian, 1929-1932, President, 1934-1936, V.P., 1933 and 1937-1946. Dr. N. S. Finzi, ‘ A C.’ (Geneva), President, 1946-1948. Gerald Steel, c.b., ‘ A C.’ (Geneva), Hon. Secretary, 1909-1910, V.P., 1948, President, 1949-1951. F. R. Crepin, ‘ A C.’ (Geneva), Hon. Secretary, 1945-1953, President, 1954- 1956. Geo. Starkey, ‘ A C.’ (Oberhasli), Hon. Secretary, 1949-1956, President, 1957-1959. Committee: J. E. L. Clements (Interlaken) 1959 C. R. Kempson (Monte Rosa) 1960 V. O. Cohen, m.c. (Engelberg) 1959 F. W. Schweitzer (Altels) 1960 R. S. Dadson, ‘A C.’ (Monte Rosa) H. W. Blogg (Monte Rosa) 1961 1959 Captain M. F. R. Jones (Diablerets) W. -
The Role of Civil Society
EUMA European Union of Mountaineering Associations The Mountain Dimension of Cooperation - The Role of Civil Society November 9, 2018 Brussels 1 Spirit of EUMA • Guido Tonella - an Italian Journalist and Photograph- after World War II: “We need an European Rope Team! Mountaineering stands above the nations. Mountaineers are brothers. They form one rope team” • Walter Bonatti, an excellent mountaineer: “Alpinism, and mountaineering in general is one of the greatest means of expression, ever developed for physical and intellectual pleasure” 2 Vision of EUMA • To include mountaineering in European Union priorities as important factor of quality of life and to recognize EUMA as dialog partner for mountaineering 3 EUMA European Union of Mountaineering Associations Founded: November 25, 2017 in Munich Registered Office: Belgium (in process) 4 Members of EUMA • German Alpine Club • Hellenic Federation of Mountaineering and Climbing • Austrian Alpine Club • Polish Mountaineering Association • Italian Alpine Club • Slovak Mountaineering Union • Spanish Mountain Sports and Climbing Federation • Liechtensteiner Alpine Club • Federation of French Alpine and Mountain Clubs • Macedonian Mountaineering Sport Federation • Royal Dutch Mountaineering and Climbing Club • Mountaineering Association of Serbia • British Mountaineering Council • Mountaineering Association of Montenegro • Alpine Association of Slovenia • Albanian Mountaineering Federation • Croatian Mountaineering Association • Mountaineering and Climbing Federation of Cyprus • Norwegian Climbing -
Himalayan Peaks of NEPAL (8,000 Meters and Above) Mt
Published by : Nepal Tourism Board Himalayan Peaks of Bhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal P. O. Box: 11018 Fax: 977-1-4256910 Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229 NEPAL E-mail: [email protected] (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m) Nepal Tourism Board www.welcomenepal.com ccover.inddover.indd 1 55/7/2009/7/2009 11:51:51:51:51 AAMM ccover.inddover.indd 2 55/7/2009/7/2009 11:51:53:51:53 AAMM Himalayan Peaks of NEPAL (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m) BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 1 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:481:47:48 AAMM The information contained in this book has been outsourced from an expert writer while every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and reliability. However, in case of lapses and discrepancies, revisions and updates would be subsequently carried out in the forth- coming issues. 2009 Edition © NTB All Images User Rights, Jagadish Tiwari Images By : Page - 7 - Harka Tamang : Page - 9, 13- Dilip Ali : Page - 17 - Raju Bhandari & : Rest of Images by Jagadish Tiwari BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 2 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:511:47:51 AAMM CCholatseholatse ppeak,eak, EEverestverest rregionegion CONTENTS Introduction/ The Eight-thousanders Mountains Over 8000m High 3 Mt.Everest 5 Mt.Kanchenjunga 7 Mt. Lhotse 9 Mt. Makalu 11 Mt. Cho Oyu 13 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal Mt. Dhaulagiri 15 Mt. Manaslu 17 Mt. Annapurna 19 Some important Mountaineering Rules and Regulations Royalty for Mountaineering Expeditions 21 3 BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 3 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:511:47:51 AAMM BBooklet.indd 4 o o k l e 4 4 t . -
Issue 14 Summer '99 £2.00 Free to All Bmc Members
ISSUE 14 SUMMER '99 FREE TO ALL BMC MEMBERS £2.00 20650_Summit_14_Cover.p65 1 5/10/99, 1:46 PM FOREWORD Inclusive Summits Since the previous issue of Summit over world does not have unlim- sixty-four visitors from 27 countries dis- ited resources, and those that covered the joys of the Scottish moun- we have need to be carefully tains at the International Winter Meet and directed, for example, at the Seminar. And it was a great week: many current opportunity pre- great climbs were done - plus an assort- sented by the Government ment of enjoyable mountain walks. But on access to the open coun- what is all the fuss about? We all know tryside in England and winter mountaineering is great - why have Wales. a seminar about it? Do we need yet more The big issue for the Open statements about how to do whatever - is Debate during the AGM it all really necessary or just yet more so week-end was traffic man- called political correctness? Shouldn’t the agement - a subject that can BMC just concentrate on the important prompt some strong opin- things like access instead of using valu- ions. As Michael Meacher able resources on seminars and meets? said recently at a conference If you had been looking at the Scottish on sustainable develop- media during the week of the seminar you ment: “Solutions are only might have seen one of the three evening solutions if they gain pub- TV news reports, heard one of the five lic support”; and the BMC radio interviews, and read one of the nu- debate was the first proper merous newspaper reports about the meet.