FOUNDED BY JAN AND HEIM CONN NEWS OF THE P.A.T.C. MQUNTAINEERING SECTION 1718 N Street, N.W. Washington DC 20036 Volume 34, Number 11 November 1979 AN ALPINE CONTRAST by Ian Cruickshank Arête Grise - Mont Blanc Hans, Peter, Willi, and Carol not big enough. I lounged on were sorting gear and drying the front steps reading a spy clothes in the sun-drenched front novel. We were regrouping after yard of the youth hostel. Nearby a somewhat cowardly retreat from women and children were turning a rock climb in the Val d'Herens over newly cut hay, which smelled in southwest Switzerland. We sweet atd strong after yesterday's had met several days before at rain. All around us were post- the Cabane de Trient near the card mountains dotted with slate French border, as I had arranged roofed chalets. Piles of food, with Peter, my Alpine climbing climbing apparatus, and wet partner of several years. After clothes were strewn about. The a short route near the Cabane, trunks of the ancient Simca and we had shifted to the Val d'Herens battered MG were open - ready where stormy weather had just to be restuffed and obviously forced us off. (continued on next page) Page 2 UP ROPE November 1979 AN ALPINE CONTRAST (continued) Mont Blanc is what keeps Chamonix The four Dutchmen were babbl- ing going. From the time Jacques Balmat in that funny-sounding mix- stood on ture of and Dr. Paccard first German and English. I years ago, could its summit almost 200 only catch enough to tell of Chamouinards have been that they generations were discussing our making their living from it. With- next objective, and that there was a out it, Chamonix would be just difference of opinion. Then These days, Peter another mountain town. approached me. a nice morning will dawn with hund- "alpinistes" plodding that "You reds of must make the decision, ,last long mile to the top. We he said in his high-school English. hordes, "Hans and didn't want any of those Willi want to do Mont and so elected to do the only easy Blanc, and Carol and I want to do the route on the Italian side, the Bietschorn." ."Arte Grise," Grade I. Remote comparision to the Charonix Thoughts by raced through my mind. side, it is the longest of the Despite four trips to the Alps, I easier routes. had never climbed anything harder than Grade III. This was to be We drove to Chamonix, a spec- the season for some Grade IV routes, tacular drive that still excited north faces, hard stuff. Yet I wanted to me even though I'd seen it a dozen climb Mont Blanc (15,700'). into Italy by the I had never times, and then been over 13,500' in Mont Blanc. From those four tunnel under seasons and wanted to see car-choked ( it was how I reacted Courmayer a to altitude. Who Saturday) narrow road led up the knows-- maybe I was one of those Val car by a rare individuals Veni. Leaving the who is able to wind-swept lake, we hiked up the climb Everest without oxygen. Without Glacier de Miage, four miles long asking what route, I de- world's ugliest cided, and one of the "Let's do Mont Blanc first glaciers. Boulders of all sizes and then the Bietschorn." (continued on next page) PATC MOUNTAINEERING SECTION Chairman Stan Halpin 340-2593 Vice Chairman Martha Hale 782-4769 Secretary Keith Pitman 931-2234 Treasurer Ian Cruickshank 426-1940 UPROPE STAFF Co-Editors LM Murphy 533-8412 Bill De Lano 532-0650 Circulation Manager Don Kocher 949-2239 MOUNTAINEERING SECTION ACTIVITIES UPROPE The MS holds monthly meetings at PATC Headquarters 11718 N UPROPE is the monthly newsletter of the Mountaineering Section Street, NM., Washington, D.C. 20036) to conduct a brief business (MS) of the Potoritac Appalachian Trail Club(PATO) of Washington, session and present a slide show,film, or other form of entertainment. D.C. Editorial contributions, letters, and comments are welcome and Sunday trips to nearby climbing areas and/or weekend trips to more should be addressed to either Lin Murphy, 2314 North Harrison distant areas are sponsored every weekend. Check the schedle on the Street, Arlington, Virginia 22205 or Bill De Lano, 1012 Ellison Square, back page for details on planned trips. Beginning and intermediate Falls Church, Virginia 22046. Deadline is the 25th of each month. training is offered once a month. Anyone is welcome to participate in Subscriptions for MS members are included in the dues. The annual MS activities, although some restrictions are placed on participation subscription for nonmembers is $4.00. Current PATC members in club trips. The Sunday trips are usually to areas where there is a interested in receiving UPROPE may obtain a subscription at no complete range of top-rope climbs, from easy to difficult. However, charge. MS membership is restricted to PATC members. New we ask that you have some instruction or experience prior to the trip. applicants and current members of PATC can join the MS by The weekend trips are usually for lead-climbers only and you are obtaining sponsorship of a current member of MS.Send subscription expected to find your own climbing partner. For more information on and address changes to Secretary, UPROPE, 1718 N Street, NW., trips, call James Eakin, 598-6042, Chairman of the Trips Committee, Washington, D.C. 20036. or call the designated trip leader. For information on training, call Rick Todd, 431-2236. „molisomonk.. Page 3 UP ROPE November 1979 AN ALPINE CONTRAST (continued) completely cover it in places Longer and longer detours were making the walk tedious at best. The incredible views of the required to pass the crevasses famous replaced by south side of Mont Blanc more than safely. The silence was breathing. Our pace compensated, particularly the in- labored slowed. The steepened to credibly tough-looking Peuterey slope Ridge, probably the hardest ridge about 40 degrees. Higher on the route in the Alps. glacier we reached its last defence, the bergschrund. Now there was From the Glacier a trail led enough light to see faintly the up steep, crumbling rock to the ridge in front of us, capped by a thin Refugio Gonella. Wire cables to edge of ice. safeguard the nastiest places were loose. The The last 20 meters were rock bolts snow dangled from about 45 degrees, but the the wire at 20' to intervals. was firm, crampons sinking in Such a condition is We rare in France, not the sole, absolutely secure. tolerated reached the ridge about 4am and in Switzerland, but is sadly break, each climber common in Italy. took a short delving into his supply of choco- late. The ridge was long and The Refugio Gonella is really easy going, not steep, and perched on the cliffs above the together in right wide enough to move bank of the Glacier du absolute security. Dome. It is old and rickety and not not very popular - the very reason we had chosen it. Two Italian college students were Thus far I was feeling strong serving as guardians. Beer was and fresh, but as we approached the cheap (about .75 a can). Two rounded Col Bionassay at 4000 was the sensible limit, since meters I began to feel just a bit the front steps consisted of "slow. There was no shortness of quarter-inch planks nailed over breath, no tiredness, just the two-by-fours, and a slip meant inability to move very fast. A a 500' fall to the Glacier. narrow ridge, alternating snow and rock, led to the Dome de Gouter, as the first rays of sun began to show off the surrounding peaks in We left the hut at 1:30am. It tones of pink and gold. A welcome was a black night. A few stars descent led to the Col du Dome, struggled to outline the jagged and for the first time we could ridges surrounding the Glacier see other climbers below us and du Dome. Sluggish and cold, I proceeding up the 4normale route" allowed myself to be tied in the from the Grands Mulets hut. middle of a three-man rope, Peter Suddenly, like turning on the in the lead. We stumbled down the lights, the sun burst above the rocks a few meters, our lights eastward peaks, showing the Grands barely picking out the tiny space Jorasses, the Vert, and the Dru. in front of our feet. The only sound was the occasional rattle The Vallot Hut is an ugly of a rock, the crunch of snow. aluminum shell, out of place in After a traverse along the ridge, a sea of snow. Several ropes we donned crampons and worked our from the normal route were way onto the glacier, following ahead of us. It was 7am as we a faint trace in the snow left by began the last slog up a series yesterday's climbers. The glacier, of bulges, "les Bosses," leading gradually steepened. flat at first, (continued on next page) Page 4 UP ROPE November 1979 AN ALPINE CONTRAST (continued) the most dangerous part of the to the summit. I was feeling day as fatigue took its toll. fine, but my body simply would I was the first back at the car not move faster than a dull (there was a kiosk selling beer rest step: one, pause, two, by the lake), but the first to pause.... bed in Chamonix that night. I kept telling myself how We moved the next day to the great the beer would taste on our Lotschental, an isolated valley in return.