ISSUE 14 SUMMER '99 FREE TO ALL BMC MEMBERS £2.00 20650_Summit_14_Cover.p65 1 5/10/99, 1:46 PM FOREWORD Inclusive Summits Since the previous issue of Summit over world does not have unlim- sixty-four visitors from 27 countries dis- ited resources, and those that covered the joys of the Scottish moun- we have need to be carefully tains at the International Winter Meet and directed, for example, at the Seminar. And it was a great week: many current opportunity pre- great climbs were done - plus an assort- sented by the Government ment of enjoyable mountain walks. But on access to the open coun- what is all the fuss about? We all know tryside in England and winter mountaineering is great - why have Wales. a seminar about it? Do we need yet more The big issue for the Open statements about how to do whatever - is Debate during the AGM it all really necessary or just yet more so week-end was traffic man- called political correctness? Shouldn’t the agement - a subject that can BMC just concentrate on the important prompt some strong opin- things like access instead of using valu- ions. As Michael Meacher able resources on seminars and meets? said recently at a conference If you had been looking at the Scottish on sustainable develop- media during the week of the seminar you ment: “Solutions are only might have seen one of the three evening solutions if they gain pub- TV news reports, heard one of the five lic support”; and the BMC radio interviews, and read one of the nu- debate was the first proper merous newspaper reports about the meet. public consultation on the These news reports were evidence of a Traffic Management sport that is capable of putting a positive scheme proposed for Snow- agenda in the media: Mountaineering donia. The meeting had a Council of Scotland President John solid consensus based on Donohoe confirmed the economic value protecting established pri- Enjoying top conditions during of climbing and hill walking to the High- vate vehicle access while the winter meet land economy; BMC National Officer also improving and encour- Andy MacNae explained the basis of our aging the use of public transport alterna- ners and success of the BMC’s trading sport being personal responsibility and tives. The BMC’s position is to support activities the work of the BMC would look self-reliance; and various overseas guests intelligent demonstration initiatives (such very different indeed. Most of the sup- described the quality, challenge, and re- as the Stanage Bus), while also arguing port from other bodies is very specifi- wards of the Scottish mountains. for any car park landscaping and other cally targeted, for example, to support One of the points of agreement during developments to be harmonious with the expeditions or competitions. As explained the week was to “Have fun, but try not to natural landscape and protecting recrea- in the Annual Report all of the combined mess the place up”: a clear and simple tional access for private vehicles. support enabled the BMC to run a wide message that any climber or hill walker There has been considerable justified and varied development programme that can relate to. But what does trying not to criticism of some traffic control measures cost £350,000 in 1998. The greatest ele- mess the place up mean in practice? Pro- that have been introduced and others that ment in that work was the cost of the Ac- viding forums to debate questions like have been proposed. Traffic management cess and Conservation programme (35% winter climbing ethics, environmental im- issues will continue to present a major of the total) which I think the majority of pact, and transport management is one of problem to National Park Authorities and members would agree is in line with the the reasons mountaineering bodies and in- also to local and national government. The organisation’s principle concerns. How- ternational meets are important. One of real traffic problem would seem to be the ever, it is vital to have an inclusive pro- the more detailed agreements during the journey to work and not recreational use. gramme that includes meets and seminars Winter Seminar was to support a draft However, I am sure the mountaineering and other activities such as support for paper on the use of bolts in the Alps (full community realizes that some compro- training, youth and walls. I was particu- report in the next issue of Summit). The mises may be necessary to achieve our larly pleased that at the National Open draft paper had been prepared by the Ger- overall aim of protecting access and that it Forum following the AGM that the Cham- man and Austrian Alpine Clubs and will be important for us to have well rea- ois club got overwhelming support for its adopted as a consultation document by soned and constructive positions. For the proposal to introduce reduced club affili- the UIAA Mountaineering Commission. BMC to fulfil its role of ensuring that the ation fees for young members - which Andy Dick from the German Alpine Club needs of climbers, hill walkers and moun- points the way to the next step in the Mem- gave a first class presentation about the taineers are fully taken into consideration bership Review. It is the sum total of reasons why a Working Group had been when traffic management plans are being these different activities that makes the set up to formulate a recommendation. He drawn up we must be a credible voice in BMC what it is, and how we can make also gave very well reasoned arguments the debate, with a constructive contribu- effective progress promoting all our in- as to why the mountaineering community tion to make. terests and the freedom to enjoy our ac- must be self-governed on the basis of in- The Annual Gathering week-end is al- tivities. clusive consensus positions. As he ways a good time to look back at the suc- pointed out if we spend our energies in cess of the previous year and thank all Have a good summer, public disputes over the use of bolts other those bodies that support the BMC’s work bodies will restrict our activities through and development programmes. Without regulations and laws - as has happened in the assistance of the various sports coun- parts of Germany. The mountaineering cils, sponsorship from many trade part- General Secretary BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 14 1 20650_Summit14.p65 1 5/10/99, 1:21 PM ONTENTSONTENTS CCC REGULARS Welcome to issue 14 of the BMC members magazine. Hopefully there is something for everyone. Opinion, essays and photographs are more than welcome. Summit will develop and grow with your input. We look forward to hearing from you. The BMC offers a wide range of services to meet the needs of its members, these include liability, accident and travel insurance, access to mountain huts and reduced cost travel, and a wide range of information and advice services. For further details 4 News 33 Arena contact the membership services team. Extended news coverage and Area news and access roundup meetings BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0161 445 4747 34 Forum 48 Briefing Fax: 0161 445 4500 Visitor pays? Forum examines All the upcoming events and publications e-mail: [email protected] this controversial policy. http//www.thebmc.co.uk CONTRIBUTIONS FOR BMC SUMMIT LETTERS should be sent to ANDY MACNAE Climbing Walls: Snap gate krabs at lower offs? at the Several walls which I have visited only offer a able for top belay lower off use’ yet some BMC OFFICE. snap connector at the top of routes. I understand that manufacturers/walls offer no option for a this arrangement is adequate to lower-off a climb, screwgate. Walls know that people top rope ADVERTISING but if I choose to top rope, I would like to do this and could give them the option to use a Advertisement Manager using a securely closed connector. Many climbing screwgate at these times. Gill Wootton walls do give this option by either having a single I feel that experienced climbers can choose screwgate or by having both a snap and a screwgate. to climb as they wish but those new to the Classified During a recent visit to a new wall I saw people top activity or those who just assume that it must Paula Taylor roping (on ropes provided by the management) be OK ‘because it is there’ should be encour- through the snapgate top anchor. As most climbers aged to adopt good practice. The design of Tel: 01536 382500 are aware; it is very possible for an unweighted rope top belay arrangements can easily incorporate Fax: 01536 382501 to become detached from a snapgate when the climber both options. PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY is level with or slightly above the snapgate. This has Chris Parkin (British Mountain Guide) happened resulting in serious injuries and I know of GreenShires Publishing a climber who seconded a climb, unclipping the quick Ian Parnell, BMC Climbing Wall Officer Telford Way adds: Kettering draws, then disconnected the rope from the top an- Northants NN16 8UN chor as well. Chris is quite right to raise the issue of top Tel: 01536 382400 I have discussed this with many people including; roping at climbing walls through only a single climbers, climbing wall management, heads of out- snap gate connector. The BMC’s advice out- BMC Participation Statement door centres, guides, instructors etc. The clear view lined in it’s Climbing Wall Manual is “If the "The BMC recognises that climbing and is that seconding and top rope belaying should be top-rope is to be connected via a single attach- mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death.