New Grants for Young Climbers

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ISSUE 17 SPRING ‘2000 £2.50

WorldWorld ClassClass Exclusive Climb ‘99 photo diary HomeHome AloneAlone Mountain tents buyers guide AA RightRight ToTo RoamRoam And a right to climb TechnicalTechnical ConferenceConference Ropes, boots, crampons

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NESTINGNESTING UPDATEUPDATE

ACCESS NEWS EVENTS SPA COFFEE ?

FOREWORD.. WHERE NEXT?

ow did 1999 end for you? Perhaps in December you were one of over 6,000 at the NIA in Birmingham Htaking part in the Climb ’99 festivities? Maybe for the New Year holiday you were one of that countless number out in the hills climbing or walking (I was lucky to be off-piste, on cascade and up Alp). For all climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers the last days of 1999 included an extremely valuable statement by Environment Minister Michael Meacher (it's official: climbing will be included in the new right of access on foot to open countryside). 'access campaign and Climb ’99' The BMC’s access campaign and Climb ’99 highlight the con- trasting ways the BMC works during the year. The access campaign is based on a membership-wide policy consultation and AGM vote (the Access Charter, April 1997). This policy is then pursued with expert volunteer advisers assisting a small team of committee specialists and staff putting forward the BMC case as effectively as possible. To be successful this work often has to be lobbying behind the scenes and therefore not visible to members until a particular milestone is reached (see Summit News and letters). By comparison events like Climb ’99 take place in front of press and television cameras, and thousands of specta- tors. Large scale participation and spectator events need commercial freedom to negotiate sponsorship and contracts and flexibility to take advantage of opportunities as they arise. The success of Climb ‘99 still depended on a very large group of hard-working volunteers (from stewards and judges to specialist instructors and well-known lecturers). But by empowering a small accountable group a vision became reality for an inclusive and diverse event (from World Class competitions and lectures to specialist training and events for young enthusiasts of all abilities). Some of the Climb ’99 development initiatives were so successful that Sport England has already agreed additional funding in 2000 for a series of specialist workshops and a conference focussed on equal opportunity and child protection issues. Where next for the BMC? Major consultation at the National Also, discussions are now underway with the Sports Council for Open Forum. Credit: Payne Wales who are looking carefully at BMC programmes in Wales. 'the key to success' has made a major input to promote the interests and freedoms of In my view the key to success for bodies like the BMC is to get our sport. If you feel you can give direct support (even in a a balanced approach that combines the strongest and most valu- modest way) to the BMC’s specialist programmes or Area struc- able elements of volunteer commitment (i.e. support and work ture please let us know. from members) with public sector standards and investment (i.e. 'an important landmark' from sports councils) and private sector efficiency (i.e. a value 1999 ended for the BMC with just over 50,000 members for for money and service approach). Of equal importance for over- the first time. This is an important landmark at the end of a year all success is that strategic plans should be firmly based on the in which the BMC supported a wide range of work programmes, agreed needs of members which rely on good communication and projects and events, the combined costs of which totalled around an open democratic structure. In my experience policy posi- £600,000 (for details of all the programmes refer to the 1999 tions like the access campaign need plenty of time for democratic Annual Report). Hence, because of the support of the different consultation, whereas the implementation of specialist pro- sports councils, partners in the outdoor world, success of BMC grammes like Climb ’99 need empowered accountable individu- trading activities and membership in 1999, the BMC was able to als who are able to act decisively. Problems can occur when there invest £600,000 (or around £12 per member) in the various good is confusion about which approach is appropriate (I hope every- causes of the mountaineering world. All this activity to promote one would agree that an AGM vote on the wording of a TV the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers would contract would be inappropriate). The BMC has just passed the not be possible without the commitment and hard work of many mid-point of its current four year strategic plan. For the next volunteers combined in a sensible management structure with plan (2002 to 2005) consultation is now underway to help en- BMC staff all working within an agreed strategic framework to sure the next plan is also firmly based on agreed needs (see page high standards of accountability. I hope BMC will have your 37). Your views are needed to shape this planning process, so support as we review the structure and priorities for 2002 and please let us know what you want from the BMC. beyond. Please feel encouraged to contribute to the current con- 'a very big thank you' sultation exercise. Perhaps you will also join one of the work- Three individuals who have made a major contribution to BMC shops or discussions at the Annual Gathering week-end and AGM work are Tony Bird as Chair of the Climbing Wall Committee, in Ilkley on 8 April? Graham Hoey as Chair of the Guidebook Committee and Geoff Milburn as Guidebook Series Editor. All three have recently stood down from these important positions and deserve a very big thank you for all their work. In their respective fields each General Secretary

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 1

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 1 2/10/00, 8:57 AM 23445_SUMMIT17.p65 mitted atthesenders’risk. for publication,howeverthesearesub- Every careistakenofmaterialssent address [email protected]. sent to Contributions forSummitshouldbe The primaryworkoftheBMCisto: and thefreedomtoenjoytheiractivities. climbers, hillwalkersandmountaineers The BMCpromotestheinterestsof of theBritishMountaineeringCouncil. is themembershipmagazine Summit opportunities formembers. practice adviceand providestraining publishes awiderangeofsafetyandgood actions andinvolvement.TheBMC these risksandberesponsiblefortheir own activities shouldbeawareofandaccept injury ordeath.Participantsinthese are activitieswithadangerofpersonal climbing, hillwalkingandmountaineering Readers ofSummitareremindedthat Neither theBMCnorGreenShiresPublishingaccept Readers areadvisedtotakereasonablecarewhen responsibility forinformationsuppliedinadverts. RISK &RESPONSIBILITY PUBLISHED &PRINTEDBY e-mail: mem BMC, 177-179BurtonRoad, W W W W W tion formembers. Provide and excellence. programmes includingyouth Support equipment. practice, facilities,trainingand Promote mountain conservation. ments andpromotecliff Negotiate GreenShires Publishing Northants,NN168UN Telford Way,Kettering elcome to Paula Taylor &Sarah Marilyn Adelmann & Adelmann Marilyn Manchester M202BB Display AdvertisingDisplay Fax: 01536382501 Andy MacNae Andy www.thebmc.co.uk Tel: 01536382500 Tel: 01536382500 Fax: 01614454500 Tel: 01614454747 PUBLISHING Fraser Ingham 17 EDITORIAL Gill Wootton responding toadverts. servicesandinforma- eventsandspecialist and adviseongood Classified Lambert [email protected] accessimprove- issue 17 of at theabove at

2 FEATURES REGULARS CONTENTS 8 4 22 18 17 16 10 mountain tents 33 Buyers'guideto Access News News legislation. updates, thelateston support AccessFund,Area Clubs andcompanies Gathering. climbers, Annual BICC, Grantsforyoung A righttoclimb!, Troll Climbing clubs&U18's. and crampons together. Brian Hallgettingboots logging andretiring. Marcus Bailieonropes, conference. All thebetafrom the1999 A celebrationofClimb'99. Kids welcome? If thebootfits? break Ropes don't Conference Technical World Class 34 34 34 Striking theBalance 34 34 34 24 24 24 StrikingtheBalance 24 24 33 33 33 Home Alone 33 33 10 10 10 Climb'99 10 10 2/15/00, 1:57 PM 48 33 31 28 26 39 38 24 Credit: AlexMessenger. Wall, Arapiles,Australia. Cover: Frances Taylor, cruisingonCurtain 4 4 4 A righttoclimb! 4 4 4 4 4 4 Arighttoclimb 4 4 Last thoughts Home Alone Stone sentinel Feedback Nesting scenes atClimb'99. control andbehindthe Alex Messengeroutof guide tomountaintents. Rob Wylie withabuyers' tions ofafirstexpedition. and thetrialstribula- Duncan BellonAconcagua response. Forum 16gotquitea ments. The 2000nestingagree- events andpublications. All theupcoming Briefing and meetings. All theAreanews Arena landowners. climbers, birdsand Striking thebalanceII Forum LETTERS

case, see news page 4-Ed). The Area Committee meetings keep everyone new legislation will supersede the informed, the web site posts regular up- 1949, National Park and Coun- dates plus draft letters to MP’s and the tryside Access Act which in- telephone is always available for anyone cluded cliffs in its definition of who seeks additional detail. Thanks to the open land. If cliffs aren’t in- efforts of the many BMC members who cluded in the scope of the new have written to their MPs we now have act we will gain almost nothing good parliamentary contacts who are sup- from this much heralded legis- portive of the BMC’s objectives. Mem- lation. This fundamental is- bers are called on to act only when there is sue has massive implications something important for them to do – for the climbing community which there is now (see page 4). Finally, yet the BMC’s house publi- in my experience when mountaineers feel cation is strangely silent. strongly about something they need little Much of the running on the encouragement to speak out. [See Forum Right to Roam has been made page 28]. by the Ramblers’ Associa- tion, with the BMC trotting along be- TIME CHANGE hind. The result is that while other or- I was rather pleased to find my recent THANKS STAFFS UNI! ganisations are getting their members de- letter prominently published in Summit. I enclose a photograph which was taken mands heard, BMC members are left be- Unfortunately the reply contained an im- in December at GR634466, sheet 17, hind because no one is standing up for us portant error. The radio Scotland hill fore- N.Wales. The adult group who I accom- at Westminster. We all, members, affili- cast is broadcast at 18:58 (not 17:58) on panied were as saddened as I was, to dis- ated clubs and the BMC executive, have weekdays. cover this graffiti etched into the rock. This to share the task of campaigning for a full is a secluded spot with great views from Right to Roam, but this can’t happen un- I. Blunk the 'hauff' like cave, it is also visited by til the BMC empowers its members by many people of all ages. giving us the information to campaign on. Many apologies for this error. Not the Many thanks to what was presumably a Keeping us in the dark while you quietly only mistake in Summit 16. The other two Staffordshire University group who have lobby the Countryside Agency on our we know about are: now created this eyesore as a testimony to behalf is less likely to deliver proper ac- Joe Walmsley, leader of the Nuptse expe- their visit. I hope that maybe a member of cess than an informed, active BMC mem- dition lived in Davyhulme, not Stockport this party will revisit the area and try to bership and executive, united in putting (reports Jim Lovelock). rectify this mess. Has anyone ideas on how pressure on Government at all levels, both The very fine Alpine Conville article was to remove graffiti from boulders? This ap- locally and nationally. written by Jamie Barclay and not Alex pears to be a spreading problem. Williams (who took the photos). Sorry Dave Timms, Jamie and thanks again for an excellent Stuart Stanley Red Rope: The Socialist Climbers article. and Walkers Club BMC LEFT BEHIND? SPA FEEDBACK Iain McMorrin, chair of the Access The Government (contrary to your ear- The SPA Forum in Summit 16 produced and Conservation Committee replies: lier predictions) has announced probably a large post bag. See page 28 for some of The BMC is delighted that, contrary to the most far reaching piece of legislation the many letters received on this issue, general belief, the Government has de- affecting climbers in the last 50 years, and a reply from Andy Newton - the new cided to legislate. You correctly point Summit has mentioned this event almost MLTB development officer. in passing and then as something to be out that this legislation has massive im- welcomed by climbers. Reports coming plications for the climbing community - to Red Rope’s ears are that it is being made which is why the BMC has invested an easier for land owners to move Rights of unprecedented amount of time in devel- Way as a quid pro quo for foreshore, oping its influence where it matters. The riverbanks and some woodland being in- announcement that climbing will be included in the scope of the draft Access to cluded within the new legislation (see Open Land Bill. What you should be re- news) shows that this strategy has now porting is that the BMC have completely paid dividends. There is however still failed to get cliffs included in the coverage much to do and regular magazine updates of the proposed legislation (this is not the and briefings at BMC Management and

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 3 2/10/00, 9:18 AM NEWS Access result - BRYCS 2000 - New grants - Troll B A right to roam and a right to climb

Environment Minister confirms that both climbers and hill walkers will benefit from the new legislation, whilst BMC and landowners reach Larwencefield, a right to climb. liability agreement. LawrenceCredit: Alex field, Messenger a right to climb. Credit: Alex Messenger. The last few months have seen rapid to secure access. In such negotiations land- ever, the BMC remains concerned that the developments in the campaign for a owners concerns about liability are a regu- Agency places too great an emphasis on recreational right of access to open lar sticking point. BMC officers and Ac- “ensuring public safety”. This links with country. It’s been a long road but as cess Reps do their best to reassure but occupiers’ liability and is fundamental to Susanna Perkins reports there is now sometimes the landowner will remain un- climbers’ and walkers’ interests. more than a little light at the end of convinced and access will be denied. For the tunnel. many years now the BMC has been cam- Different laws for paigning for a ‘recreational user’ category In November the Queen’s speech her- within the occupiers' liability legislation England and Wales? alded access legislation at last, and the end where the recreational visitor accepts a Whilst CA advised that the right should of the road is now in sight. There have greater responsibility for their actions, so be extended to coastal land, Countryside been many up and downs along the way. reducing the landowners' liability and pav- Council for Wales prefers voluntary meas- Doom mongers suggested that the net ef- ing the way for an access agreement. The ures. It is likely that extending the area fect of the legislation would be to reduce advent of the ‘right to roam’ legislation subject to a right of access will be done access, particularly for climbers. Some has lent a new impetus to the process. In through secondary legislation (i.e. drawn suggested that climbing may be excluded breakthrough discussions in January 2000 up by the National Assembly after the from the bill altogether. A frenetic period the BMC and the Country Landowners main Bill has become law). We may there- of lobbying followed as BMC officers met Association agreed a joint statement that fore end up with different access laws in ministers and BMC members wrote to occupiers of land subject to the new legis- England from those in Wales. their MPs asking for assurances that all lation should not be held liable for injuries climbing and walking activities would be arising from features of the landscape (i.e. What happens next? covered in the new legislation. DETR people falling off crags and that sort of The ‘Countryside Amenity and Conser- would not be drawn on the issue, so BMC thing). Having reached this agreement the vation Bill’ is likely to be published by officers turned to sympathetic MPs and two bodies have now asked the Govern- early March and debated in Parliament asked for their support. This effort has ment to include this approach as an amend- during the spring. All being well, it should now borne fruit. In late November Alan ment to the new legislation. At first this receive royal assent by the Autumn, but Howarth MP, a keen hill walker, wrote to won’t affect land not covered by the new there remains much work to be done by Environment Minister Michael Meacher law, but it will set a crucial precedent the countryside agencies in mapping open and was finally able to elicit confirmation which, with careful lobbying, could lead countryside, developing codes of practice that climbing and hillwalking would both to an overhaul of the occupiers’ liability and establishing Local Access Forums. be included within the legislation. This is legislation and an end to landowners’ ob- The new right of access is therefore un- great news for climbers, hill walkers and jections to access on liability grounds. likely to become effective before 2002. mountaineers. Restrictions where necessary for wildlife and land management in- Access to Sea Cliffs terests will continue to apply, but now, Summit 16 reported the shock news that The final push for the first time, BMC members can look the Countryside Agency (CA) had advised We are not out of the woods yet! The forward to enjoying a legal right of access the Government to exclude cliff faces from draft Bill is not yet available, and it may to both climbing and walking venues on the coastal land to which a right of access contain threats to climbers and walkers. open country. should be extended. The BMC acted Also, there will be opportunities for those swiftly, presenting statistics showing that opposed to access in general, or to climb- Occupiers' liability accidents requiring rescue mostly occur in ing in particular, to table amendments. This new right of access is of course not the inter-tidal zone, some on coastal paths, Now is the time to capitalise on the sup- the end of the story and there are still but very few on cliff faces. With the back- port we have in Parliament. Please write plenty of contentious climbing and walking of the National Countryside Access to your MP, raising the following points ing venues not on open country (as de- Forum, CA were asked to reconsider their and asking him to speak on behalf of walk- fined by the legislation). Here case by case decision. This was done and advice ers and climbers in the debate of the Bill: negotiations with landowners are required amended to include all coastal land. How- • Climbing and mountaineering have

The annual gathering- p6 and 39 -be there!

44 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 4 2/10/00, 9:23 AM l BICC - Equity Summit 2000

been enjoyed in the upland for over 150 years and should be included alongside . Young stars New grants for walking within the right, in line with the Government’s intention. shine in young climbers • New laws should allow people the Young climbers can benefit from a new freedom to take risks in their sport, and to BICC 2000 grant award from the Andy Fanshawe accept responsibility for this. Memorial Trust. Young people are invited to apply to the Trust for grants to assist • Climbers and walkers accept the them to undertake climbing expeditions need for restrictions to protect wildlife or other outdoor initiatives that they could and land management issues, but these not undertake without financial support. must be justifiable. The Trust will also consider assisting More details and the text of a possible with attendance at courses, provided they letter are on the website at offer good value for money and the pri- www.thebmc.co.uk Members’ letters mary reason for attendance is for personal have been very helpful in building up sup- development rather than purely the ac- port in Parliament. If you have a sympa- quisition of qualifications. thetic MP and are prepared to telephone The maximum grant available will be for him at short notice (and have not already 50% of the cost up to £500. Any young been in touch with me) please let me know. person wishing to benefit from the scheme Your help could be crucial in shaping the Lucy Creamer on her way to second place at the WICC. should contact the Administrator at the new laws! (Contact Susanna Perkins, Credit: Parnell Andy Fanshawe Memorial Trust. Screen- BMC Access and Conservation Officer. ing will take place in April and applica- Direct line: 0161 438 3309; email tions should be received by 20th March [email protected]) The first event of the Troll British In- 2000. Many thanks to all those BMC mem- door Climbing Championship 2000, held For further details contact Sue Waring bers who have supported the access at the Welsh International Climbing Cen- 01768-881623 or email us on campaign. For regular updates on the tre, saw several superb performances by [email protected]. access legislation campaign and advice some of Britain’s younger competitors. Footnote: on how you can help see the BMC 12 year old Jemma Powell competing in The Andy Fanshawe Memorial Trust website (www.thebmc.co.uk). the British title series for the first time was established in 1992 in memory of might have been expected to be a little former BMC National Officer Andy 2000 Rockit nervous. But with wins already in the Fanshawe. Andy was one of the coun- Entre-Prises British Junior Challenge and try’s leading mountaineers and was always most recently the French Open she con- keen to assist other young mountaineers BRYCS dates to reach their potential. The Trust aims to tinued her outstanding run with a confi- Following the success of the 1999 series assist young people who want to visit dent win. The boys saw a shock as fa- Rockit are again generously supporting the our mountains and crags but lack the vourite Tom Lawrence was edged out by British Regional Youth Competition Se- means to do so. a very determined James Wooley. The ries this year. Organised by the BMC and seniors saw more predictable wins with hosted by 27 walls around the country impressive performances from Claire Equity Summit 2000 the Rockit BRYCS is Britain’s largest jun- Murphy and Chris Cubitt. The shocks The BMC has put together an equity ior climbing event. It is expected that up here were provided a little lower down plan for 2000 following the success of the to 400 climbers aged between 7 and 15 the placings. Most notably a battling sec- ‘come and try it’ walls, projects with Ur- will compete in the three regional rounds ond place by Adam Dewhurst in his first ban Adventure Support and BMC disabil- with the top 3 in each age group in each year in the senior mens and some strong ity seminar with Sport for All at Climb 99. region going through to the national final. Sport England found the plan interesting performances by newcomers in the For an application form contact the BMC and is providing funding for this year long womens in particular Alison Martindale office. project that, if successful, will be used by and Ruth Berry. Thanks go to Jason Fenn Sport England as a template for other sport- and all his team at the Welsh International Round 1 Saturday 18 March ing governing bodies to use. Climbing Centre for providing such a good Round 2 Saturday 25 March One seminar incorporating practical start to the series. With newer faces now Round 3 Saturday 1 April workshops will be held for each of the coming to the fore the Troll BICC 2000 (London + SE 9 April) three groups within the world of climb- should prove to be a very interesting show- The Final Saturday 6 May (WICC) ing, hillwalking and mountaineering cul- case for the future of British competition minating in a policy making Summit in climbing. October 2000. Sport England, BMC and Climbing Wall Committee Mountaineering disability specialists will needs a new chair Junior Boys Senior Men be running the workshops between April Tony Bird has resigned as chair of the 1.James Wooley 1.Chris Cubitt and September on the following: Climbing Wall Committee. Tony has been 2.Tom Lawrence 2.Adam Dewhurst Working with disability in climbing, leading the BMC's climbing wall pro- 3.Ashley Clarke 3.Richard Bingham breaking down barriers , tackling social gramme for five years and amongst other inclusion, planning, policy and oppor- things was part of the team responsible Junior Girls Senior Women tunities for facility managers, child pro- for the much praised Climbing Wall 1.Jemma Powell 1.Claire Murphy tection policy and you. Look out for Manual. Nominations for a new chair are 2.Emma Twyford 2.Lucy Creamer dates and venues in the next issue of urgently needed. 3.Sadie Renwick 3.Rebecca Allen Summit.

National Open Forum: Which way forward for the BMC? see p37 and 39. BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 5

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 5 2/10/00, 9:29 AM NEWS Annual Gathering - Wye Valley Guide

helpful to club representatives and com- it became clear that some activists had 2000 Annual mittee members. Subjects are likley to in- concerns that the history gave a negative clude: access legislation, clubs and new mem- attitude towards sport climbing and that Gathering bers and running local events. On the Friday some first ascent reports contained er- evening prior to the AGM there will be the rors. Following lengthy discussions with BMC Annual Gathering: usual buffet and a slide show by Ian all involved it was decided to address this 7-8 April, Ilkley, Yorkshire Parnell on the Slovenian Winter ex- by amending some text with stickers. The Have you ever been to the BMC AGM? change plus a pictorial tour of BMC is grateful to those climbers who Have you ever thought that the BMC Yorkshire's finest crags by Dave helped to clarify the various points and is was getting it wrong? Musgrove. All this at the Craiglands Hotel. pleased that a definitive guidebook to one If the answer is NO/YES then you are on the most important areas for limestone missing your chance to have your say See also briefing on page 39. Dinner will climbing is now available. and influence the way the BMC works. be £21.50 and the Friday buffet £9. For You are also missing out on a pretty good further information about dinner bookings End of an era party. So make a change and come along or accomodation please contact Lucy Two of the pivotal figures in Peak to the 2000 AGM and annual dinner. Mansie at the BMC office or see the BMC guidebook work stood down at the end The AGM, which will take place at 4pm website. of last year. Graham Hoey, chair of the on Saturday 8, will be voting on a new BMC Guidebook Committee, and Geoff Vice President to replace Brian Milburn, Peak Series Editor, have been Griffiths, who will be completing his deeply involved with guidebook work for term. Nominations are invited and should The Wye Valley more years that even they would care to be addressed to the General Secretary. remember and have been instrumental in Other key issues to be debated will in- Guide bringing many classic publications to our clude the BMC’s strategic plan for 2002 The latest in the excellent series of BMC book shelves. All those who have enjoyed to 2005. The AGM will be followed by guidebooks to climbing in the Peak is the climbing in the peak with the help of these the National Open Forum where any Wye Valley (Cheedale and Water cum guidebooks owe both Geoff and Graham issues of concern to members, including Jolly). A huge amount of volunteer work a huge vote of thanks for their tireless the future of the BMC, can be debated. went into producing the new guidebook efforts. The AGM will take place at Ilkley with some valuable new historical infor- Grammar School with the annual din- mation uncovered. The guidebook is in ner being at the excellent Craiglands Ho- two volumes and has a large selection of tel. Prior to the AGM there will be a stunning colour photographs. Following selecion of workshops designed to be the launch of the guidebook in November

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ACCESS NEWS

ganic cotton, Patagonia al- Stanage - Traffic ready being the largest user of organic cotton in the Management world. Clubs get Plans behind access The next phase of the Peak Park's traffic management plans at North Lees begins fund shortly with the construction of a sur- YMC: Like most guide- faced car park at Burbage Bridge. The 38 book producers the York- space car park will have Fibredec (see shire Mountaineering Club Stanage popular end) and tarmac surface donate a proportion of its and will be closed for 6 weeks during con- guidebook income to the struction. Once the planned work at High Access Fund. The good Neb is completed there will be 310 park- news for the access fund is ing spaces on North Lees. This should that the new Yorkshire provide enough capacity for climbers and Gritstone guide has been so walkers on all but the busiest summer successful that it has con- weekends. There are currently no plans tributed over £1100 to the to introduce Pay & Display in the new Access Fund over the past car parks. The Stanage Forum which is year. The money raised by programmed to start in May will give the YMC will support ero- climbers further opportunities to raise traf- sion control and path repair fic and parking issues with the Peak Park. at Earl Crag. For a full update on the 2000 nesting restrictions see page 26. Credit: Dave Turnbull. Hen Cloud CC: The CC's Colin rioration. Ban y gor, Tintern and Kirkus Fund is putting £1000 toward Following the Hen Cloud bolting inci- Shakemantle Quarries - bolting and retro- supporting the purchase and erosion con- dent during the filming of Peak Practice bolting permitted, provided no bolt is trol at Stone Farm. last October, the BMC has met with the placed on or is easily clipped from previ- FRCC: The Fell and Rock Climbing Peak Park and has discussed the matter in ously-existing routes unless the 1st Club is making a donation of £500 to- detail. In view of the very short notice ascensionist of that route has given signed ward the cost of path repair at Castle given by the film company, the BMC has and dated permission in writing. Other Rock. acknowledged that the Peak Park went to documented crags - no new or replace- A big thank you to these three clubs and reasonable lengths to consult local climb- ment bolts. The full policy including pro- to all the other supporters of the Access ers before authorising the filming and scaf- posals for new crags is on the BMC Fund. folding work. The Peak Park has how- website. ever agreed to consult the BMC directly in the event of any future applications of Scottish Access News this type. Patagonia giveaway Cairngorm Visitor Management supports Borrowdale Plan Consultation Gower Bolts Debate - repairs At the time of writing the Cairngorm Part III Patagonia have raised £1226 for the Funicular Visitor Management Plan is The final installment of the Gower bolts BMC Access Fund by inviting journal- about to be made available for public con- debate is at the WICC, Bargoed at 7pm, ists to help themselves to Patagonia sam- sultation. A publication date has not been Sat 15 April. The meeting aims to agree a ples from previous seasons in exchange announced and it is likely that publica- definitive statement on fixed gear on for an Access Fund donation. The £1226 tion will have taken place by the time Gower and also to agree policies for will meet half the costs of an erosion con- you read this. The VMP is a major op- Ogmore and Witches Point. Everyone is trol project at Shepherd's Crag, portunity to have your say in an issue welcome to attend. Borrowdale, which will involve slope that will have a major impact on the fu- stabilisation and path construction. ture of the Cairngorms. Please take part Wye Valley - New Drilled A couple of dozen journalists responded in the consultation. For updates check the and BMC staff also pitched in. Everyone MCofS website (currently part of the Gear Policy who took a sample was pleased to be SMC site) or call the MCofS office. A new drilled gear policy for the Wye able to come away with some tasty Valley was agreed at the BMC SW Area Patagonia kit whilst contributing to a Scottish Access Legislation meeting on 5 Feb in Gloucester. The policy cause which intrinsically effects climbers The Scottish Access Forum is still work- was developed by a group of local activ- and walkers. ing on the Scottish Outdoor Access Code ists chaired by John Willson and the crag The donation demonstrates Patagonia's and the Scottish Executive is drafting the agreements are; Wintour's Leap - no new ongoing commitment to the environment Bill. Consultation is expected after Easter. development with bolts; Re-gearing to re- and preserving countryside and wilder- Following a two month consultation pe- main strictly like-for-like except for cur- ness areas. Patagonia is at the forefront riod the Bill will go before the Scottish rently-existing bone fide abseil/lower-off of using Post Consumer Recycled fleece Parliament. For updates see stations and some main belays which have and other PCR products, made from re- www.scottish.parliament.uk or call their become unsafe solely owing to peg dete- cycled plastic bottles, and the use of or- general enquiries number 0845 278 1999.

8 8 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 8 2/15/00, 2:17 PM

CLIMB 99 WORLDWORLDWORLD CLASSCLASSCLASS!!! The Entre-Prises UIAA World Championship & Climb '99, NIA, Birmingham 3rd-5th December '99. All photos this page: James Smith.

Clockwise Spiral: Yuji Hiriyama (JAP) on the headwall. Alan Hinkes & Louise Thomas offer tips on the "Have a Go Walls". Muriel Sarkany (BEL). Liv Sansoz (FRA) after the final. Women's Semi. Men's Semi. The 5 impressive "Have a Go Walls". Yuji again - before the final. Mens Viewing. 10 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 10 2/10/00, 9:48 AM CLIMB 99

Were you there?

For the Entre-Prises UIAA World Champi- onship and Climb '99 - the last, and biggest climbing festival of the millennium. With an incredible range of things to watch, do, and buy, over 6000 people enjoyed a great weekend, we hope you were one of them. And even if you missed out, then enjoy this photographic special, and remember there's always Climb '01 to look forward to!

Francois Legrand, who surprised everyone by not winning. Photo: David Simmonite BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 11

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 11 2/10/00, 9:49 AM CLIMB 99 LEFT: The 6000 strong crowd gasped as Yuji Hiriyama (RIGHT) was relegated to 2nd place by the unknown Bernadino Lagni (BELOW). Mean- while in a corner, the Seb Grieve car boot sale continued. Credit: Nick Hancock.

Whilst the competition continued (RIGHT: Carl Ryan), Local Schools and members of the public tried abseiling (LEFT: James Smith), and climbing on the 5 "Have a Go Walls" (BELOW: James Smith). The pre-Christmas bargains in the retail village created a frenetic atmosphere, with Snow + Rock (BELOW LEFT: Alex Messenger) being mobbed for the whole weekend. Those seeking sanctuary from the crush headed to the photographic & art bar (BELOW RIGHT: Alex Messenger).

WORLD CLASS!!!

logon to www.wildcountry.co.uk

12 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 12 2/10/00, 12:22 PM RIGHT & BELOW: The Men's route took full CLIMB 99 advantage of the impressive 3 legged wall. Credit: Carl Ryan.

BELOW & INSET: Muriel Sarkany (BEL), one of the favourites in the Women's difficulty gets to grips with the steepest competition wall ever built. Credit: Alex Messenger.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 13

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 13 2/10/00, 12:22 PM CLIMB 99

Doug Scott and Andy Cave, just two of the speakers telling of The 1999 Entre-Prises UIAA World their exploits during the MEF 'Expeditions of Five Decades' day. Credit: Nick Hancock Championship and Climb '99 was one of the most successful BMC events yet. A top competition, the very best pre Xmas bargains, quite possibly the best line up of speakers ever assembled, a chance to try climbing and a cracking photo exhibition. Quite a show and quite a buzz. Alex Messenger reports:

Over the weekend more than 6000 people visited the NIA, with all eyes on the 130 climbers from over 20 different coun- tries battling it out on the steepest, and certainly most impressive, competition wall ever built in the UK. The audience was treated to some amazingly tenacious performances on this testing wall, featuring both difficulty and speed events, and the whole arena was buzzing when Berandino Lagni (ITA) came from nowhere to beat the world famous Yuji Hiriyama (JAP). And in the Women’s, Liv Sansoz (FRA) held off a strong challenge from Muriel Sarkany (BEL) to retain her title. The Entre- Prises Junior Challenge was another crowd pleaser, and the young British talent on display bodes very well for the future. And just as exciting as this world class climbing was the inno- vative Climb '99 exhibition. The 5 “Come and Try it walls” were extremely busy for the full three days, with local schools, Chris Smith, Secretary of State for Culture Media and Sport, meets youth groups, and of course the general public making the most school groups learning to climb on the "Have a Go Walls" Credit: David Simmonite of the opportunity. In the retail village, which included Snow & Rock, Outside, the Climber's shop, and Greenshires, the combination of bargain equipment and the proximity of Christmas proved irresistible to most, and the crowd was frenetic. The lecture series proved to be another unique experience, featuring both presentations from current cutting edge perform- ers such as Alex Huber, and Seb Grieve, and the “MEF expeditions of five decades” series, chaired by Chris Bonington. The 350 seater auditorium was often standing room only as a selection of some of the most famous mountaineering expeditions from the past 50 years were remembered by those who took part. And for a relaxing break, visitors could investigate the photographic and art exhibition in the concourse bar. This new exhibit drew together images from the 1953 Everest exhibition right up to the present, and proved to be a great success.

What the audience thought... Sir Chris Bonington, who chaired The public bouldering walls were the marathon 14 hour MEF day. Credit Nick Hancock “I was very glad I was able to touch on a number of the different extremely popular, with many an informal competition taking place. (and excellent) activities that were going on.” Credit: James Smith Rt Hon Chris Smith MP. Secretary of State for Culture, Media and Sport. The Lord Mayor of Birmingham (left, with Ian “I was particularly struck to see so many young people taking McNaught-Davis) came for as much from accounts of the 1970s Annapurna/Everest expedi- a quick visit and ended up tions as I did when I heard Chris Bonington twenty odd years staying to present the prizes. ago! Congratulations to all involved”. Credit: Nick Hancock A. Maxted, Outdoor Industries Association.

“It really was a unique and tremendous opportunity to cover 45 years of British Mountaineering at its best. Absolutely superb !” G. Adshead

14 WORLD CLASS!!! BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 14 2/10/00, 9:52 AM A NEW video and booklet from the BMC

Results Men's Difficulty 1 Bernardino Lagni (ITA) 2 Yuji Hirayama (JPN) 3 Maxim Petrenko (UKR)

Women's Difficulty 1 Liv Sansoz (FRA) 2 Muriel Sarkany (BEL) 3 Elena Ovchinnikova (USA)

Men's Speed 1 Volodymyr Zakharov (UKR) 2 Vladamir Netsvetaev (RUS) 3 Alexei Gadeev (RUS)

Women's Speed 1 Olha Zakharov (UKR) 2 Olena Repko (UKR) 3 Natalia Novikova (RUS)

British Junior Challenge Boys 1 Tom Lawrence 2 Paul Smitton 3 Danny Cattell BMC In Partnership With: British Junior Challenge Girls 1 Jemma Powell 2 Julia Warboys EXPERIENCE ERROR - WITHOUT TERROR 3 Katy Piddock Climbing Rock is designed to help you recognise the common errors and inefficiencies in your climbing.This entertaining This really was an event for video comes complete with a Technical Booklet which helps all, with the disability you identify problem areas and make progress to achieve workshop giving the partici- your potential. pants a real buzz. Credits: Carl Ryan Marlow,Animal, Berghaus

✃

Please send me copies of the NEW Climbing Rock video and booklet at £15 (non members) £12.50 (Members). I enclose a cheque for £ ...... payable to British Mountaineering Council. Please debit my Access/Visa account, Card number:

Card expiry date: /

BMC membership number: Name: ...... Address: ...... Postcode: ...... Daytime tel no: ...... Supporting British BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 Send to: BMC, 177-179 Burton Road, Manchester M20 2BB. 15 Expeditions Tel: 0161 445 4747 Fax: 0161 445 4500

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 15 2/10/00, 11:08 AM TECHNICAL CONFERENCE

cidents being due to the simple slip, the importance of grip cannot be over empha- The 1999 sised. Brian also took the opportunity to BMC develop his ideas on boot/crampon com- esting patibility. At the 1996 Conference Brian Technical first proposed the C1,2,3/B1,2,3 system Conference that many have now adopted. On page 18 imes... he describes what he feels to be the next T logical step. ovember 1999 and the Techni that an item of equipment meets the stand- cal Conference was back in ard and consider its actual design The drop test NNorth Wales. Fresh from a two strengths. Meeting the standard is a mini- Neville McMillan began his keynote talk year break the conference had a different mum requirement and in many cases qual- by asking what criteria the audience used format, an enthusiastic audience and ity items well exceed the standard and so to make their rope selection. Whilst col- plenty to talk about. Here Andy MacNae offer very useful, sometimes essential ex- our was a popular one, many said that the sums up the day and in the following pages tra protection. The message was don’t fall rating had a great bearing on their Marcus Bailie and Brian Hall discuss two just look for the CE mark but understand choice. “Ah” said Neville “but how do of the conference topics in detail. what the standard requires and check and you know that the number quoted by one compare the numbers. manufacturer has any relevance to that Investigations & quoted by another?” “Well it’s the UIAA Research standard drop test” replied the audience. standards The Research Working Group is a new “In theory” said Neville "but in practice it Neville McMillan and Andy MacNae addition to the BMC’s Technical Group. appears that different test houses, carry- kicked off the conference by describing Trevor Hellen chairs the meetings and he ing out what should be a standard test, get the work of the Equipment Investigation described to the conference the back- radically different results on the same rope.” Panel. This group, combining independ- ground to the group's formation. The idea Neville went on to show the variation of ent experts and trade, retail and training is to provide a forum which will help re- results between test houses testing a stand- representatives, investigates incidents of searchers working on climbing related top- ard rope. The differences were very sig- equipment failure or misuse. The panel ics exchange information and co-ordinate nificant; to the extent that a rope could relies on members of the climbing public their research to target it at climbers' needs. fail the test at one test house and pass notifying the BMC office of serious or Several of the group's members were able with flying colours at another. These dis- baffling failures and Neville stressed the to report on ongoing research. Here's what crepancies were first confirmed early in need for climbers to keep this in mind. To they were up to: 1999, and during the Spring and early Sum- illustrate the work of the panel some of Martyn Pavier: Ropes-Looking at how mer Neville and fellow members of the the more intriguing incidents from the past ropes weaken over many drops and the UIAA safety commission visited each test two years were described. A brief sum- influence of factors such as sharp edges house to examine the rigs and see if the mary follows. For more detail see Summit and dynamic belays on number of drops cause of the variations could be identified. 15. Full reports are available at £3 from before breakage. To cut a long story short several factors the BMC office. Rae Gordon: Axe blades-Finite ele- were found and redesigns recommended ment analysis. Identifies stress concen- for the test rigs. With these changes com- Acid rope: A rope that had been essen- trators and makes it possible to minimise pleted it is hoped that in the near future tially destroyed by acid damage. The acid or design out. comparative tests will show the problem was sulphuric and the owner is adamant to have been solved. that the rope did not come into contact Tony Lowe: Axe blades-Photoelastic with a car battery. So where might the analysis of stresses in axe blades. Shows acid have come from? the stress concentrators. A relaxed format Wall krab: A karabiner failed 'gate open' Dave Brook: Helmets-How the helmet standard was developed and how For the first time the conference ex- but it was on the first quick draw and the tended into the Sunday. A relaxed format second had already been clipped and so helmets can be expected to perform in practice. of workshops and demonstrations had should have taken the load. How did been arranged. In the morning groups dis- enough load come onto the broken cussed equipment pools, care and mainte- karabiner? Equipment pools nance whist in the afternoon groups Axe pick: A climber experienced re- Plas y Brenin’s Mike Turner took the played with belay devices and test drove peated pick failure on hard mixed climbs. conference through the process of man- various ascenders. Nothing terribly scien- Showed the need for thicker picks on the aging an equipment pool and discussed tific resulted from the tests. But perhaps modern desperates. many of the key issues. As usual, rope the main lesson from the belaying session Old rope: A 29 year old rope was tested. life was a popular point and in the article was that as long as the rope diameter is It survived the first drop, just, but failed opposite Marcus Bailie discusses one of within the device's tolerance, it is almost easily on the second. the days central issues-that of logging use always going to be belayer distraction that and consequently when to discard. results in a climber being dropped. The At the end of this session Neville gave morning workshop sessions gave delegates an update on equipment standards. Nearly Boots: Soles and the opportunity to examine well used all the European mountaineering equip- equipment and to discuss damage and dis- ment standards (CEN) are now complete, Crampons card criteria. although the helmet standard remains a Brain Hall, a guide who also works as a subject of debate, and the new UIAA consultant for Scarpa, looked at a couple All in all the Sunday gave a pleasant con- standards are all based on these CEN of technical aspects of boot design. trast to the Saturday and gave everyone a standards. Neville took the opportunity Firstly he described sole patterns and the chance to get hands on and to discuss is- to remind the audience that in some cases bearing these have on how a boot per- sues of individual concern. it is important to look beyond the fact forms. With over 50% of hill walking ac-

16 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 16 2/10/00, 9:55 AM TECHNICAL CONFERENCE Ropes don’t BREAK! Marcus Bailie, Head of Inspection for the Adventure Activities Licensing Authority, asks 'If ropes don't break why do we bother logging their use?'

when corroded by acid. Detailed logging here may be many reasons why plete failure. And the oldest rope tested of the usage of the rope is therefore not you would want to log the use of was 29 years old! going to affect its safety. Tyour climbing ropes but safety The BMC’s booklet ‘Ropes’ and the isn’t one of them. This seemed to be the article in Issue 11 of Summit gives excel- *" This is Pit's way of reinforcing the message which came over strongly at the lent guidelines on the sort of things you point. Obviously it is not impossible to recent BMC Technical Committee Con- should consider when deciding when to break a climbing rope by overload. What ference. It was like music to my ears. down-grade or retire your ropes. The ‘han- Pit is saying is that because of the stand- dling’ of a rope is certainly an aspect we ard to which ropes are made and the care When non-climbers look at the safety of consider very seriously: a rope which is with which we maintain them it is very, climbing they have tended to concentrate difficult to handle is difficult to handle very unlikely. To the extent that even af- on equipment and not on the real issues safely. Stiff ropes may not lock off as ter millions of hours of rope usage all over such as the competence of the climber and easily in some belay devices; it is more the world a modern climbing rope has the belayer. This has been a particular difficult to make knots secure; stiff ropes never failed in normal use due solely to problem at, for example, climbing walls are more difficult to manage on a stance, overload. Ropes break, or rather cut, when which are inspected by Local Authorities, with possible safety implications for the they run, under load, over sharp or rough or university clubs which may be admin- lead climber or for a retreating pair. edges. Speakers at the conference spoke istered by a non-climbing student union The Adventure Activities Licensing Au- of the importance of care with runner place- official. Many other examples exist where thority has not, and does not, expect even ments and abseil lines so as to ensure that competent climbers feel that they are pre- commercial providers to adopt a blanket the rope will not run over dangerous edges. vented from using their better judgement “two years and it has to go” approach to Rope cuttings may be rare but the conse- because of uninformed adherence to some ropes. What we do expect is that they quences are desparately serious and so ruling, protocol or regulation. It may be check their ropes each time before use, care is essential." - Technical Committee. difficult, for example, to justify not con- and after any major fall, by ‘running it forming to manufacturer’s guidelines even through’, with the expectation “if we don’t Ropes don't break by overload, but they when they say that ropes should be re- like it we don’t use it”. Thereafter, the do by cutting and abrasion - so take placed every two years. recording of routine checks by a compe- care, not all landings are this forgiving! Those who attended the Conference tent person for damage or abrasion, and Simon Marsh leaving Ao Nang Tower. were told in no uncertain terms that the ensuring that its length is still clearly read- Credit: Alex Messenger. claim for such a short life expectancy of able on both end tabs, may be more useful ropes was no longer sustainable. Pit than a detailed log of usage. Schubert, President of the UIAA Safety Logging usage may be done for reasons Commission, declared in his inimitable other than safety and these alone may mean Germanic accent “if you want to break a that some users may decide to continue climbing rope you must cut it over a sharp using them. In a club or similar situation, edge, corrode it with acid or use a weight if the rope is not where it should be then a drop machine. Everything else EES signing out procedure may give an indica- IMPAUSIBLE!”* Speaker after speaker tion of who has it. Secondly if it’s re- supported the view. Researchers from a turned covered in mud or in tangles then number of university and college depart- the log may show who left it like that. ments presented evidence on how ropes Other considerations such as determining could become weaker through use. How- which ropes last best may have some va- ever, none of the ropes failed on its first lidity but this information can usually be drop, even using weight drop machines. obtained in a less bureaucratic way. There was always severe and detectable In conclusion, overwhelming statistical damage (such as the tearing of the sheath) evidence suggests that in practice ropes before subsequent drops produced com- only fail by cutting over sharp edges and

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 17 2/10/00, 9:57 AM TECHNICAL CONFERENCE IfIfIf thethethe bootbootboot fits?fits?fits? Brian Hall asks:

Can we improve the compatibility of boots and crampons?

Examples of good (LEFT) and poor ver the past few years I have been promoting the need (RIGHT) boot crampon compatibility. for a better fit between boots and crampons. Through working as a mountain guide and a consultant on boot hope will be a sprint rather than a marathon to compatibility. I O believe the simplest way is to follow the ski industry and define design for Scarpa I developed a grading system that has been widely adopted and publicised in the UK. an ideal sole unit which then gives a template for crampon manufacturers to work from. Boots are graded B0, B1, B2 and B3, where B0 is unsuitable for To find what could reasonably be described as an average boot use with crampons, B1 is a partially stiffened four season walk- sole shape I measured a series of dimensions critical to boot / ing boot that can be used for occasional crampon use, B2 is the crampon compatibility in the following boots: Scarpa Matter- equivalent of a three quarter shank boot and can be used for horn, Scarpa Manta, Salomon Guide, Sportiva Nepal Top, winter mountaineering and at the other end of the scale B3 is a Sportiva Trango, Scarpa Vega, Asolo AFS 8000, Lowa Civetta, fully stiffened mountaineering / ice climbing boot. Crampons are Salomon Mt 8, Sportiva Makulu, Scarpa Freney and One Sport graded in a parallel system from C1 to C3, where C1 is a flexible Everest. The crucial dimensions identified and their average val- walking crampon with straps, C2 is a flexible crampon (with toe ues are shown in the diagram below. and heel piece) which is attached with straps or similar (though it can have a heel clip), through to C3 which is a fully rigid Most boots are hand made and the grinding and finishing of the technical ice climbing crampon with toe bale and heel clip. sole gives variations between the same models. I have used size Boots in the B3 category are ideal for C3 crampons and will 42 as the guide. Additionally some of the boots distort the aver- also take C2 and C1. At the other end of the spectrum a B1 boot age because they have specialist use (e.g. One Sport Everest, could only be recommended with a C1 crampon. Scarpa Freney and Sportiva Trango). We must also not forget Many outdoor shops are using this system to ensure that cus- that just because there is a consensus for a particular dimension tomers get the correct advice when purchasing boots and cram- that it is correct. In the boot and crampon bad habits die hard! pons. However I believe the situation could be dramatically I propose the following standard for boot soles. improved if certain steps were taken by manufacturers of boots • Toe height (A) This varies with some as low as 10mm and crampons. Essentially we are in a similar situation to the ski but most are much greater. Durability is increased as this dimen- industry many years ago. They realised the safety consequences sion increases but sensitivity is reduced. of non compatibility between ski boots and bindings and devel- I propose 17mm. oped a series of DIN norms to regulate the dimensions of ski • Heel height (B) This is not that important for the boots boots and ski bindings. I accept there needs to be a degree of flexibility in the boot and crampon relationship at the C1 and B1 level. Here boots are designed primarily for walking and when crampons are used it is Measured generally for short periods either for emergency or to negotiate short icy stretches on a mountain. With C3 and B3 boots this is average not the case. Boot and crampon should be designed to fit exactly dimensions together (and it can be argued that this should be the case in B2 A: Toe Height 16.5mm and C2). B: Heel Height 34.6mm C: Toe Groove Indent 5.3mm How can this be done? D: Heel Lip Indent 5.7mm At first we need to identify the areas that are crucially impor- E: Rocker 14.9mm tant when fitting crampons on boots and then put an ideal di- F: Heel Width 73mm mension or shape on this area. If all manufacturers followed these standards then compatibility would be ensured. A certain degree of discussion needs to take place before standards are set and the following proposal is only the starting gun in what I

18 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 18 2/10/00, 9:58 AM in themselves but vital for the ª effectiveness of the crampon NEW Vapour-Rise heel bale. Current designs of crampon work better with dimensions over 35mm All Terrain Wear: I propose 35mm Running, Climbing, Mountaineering, Biking, • Toe groove indent (C). Ski Touring, Scottish Winter and Trekking This should be configured so it goes in and under the boots toe (rather than the sole toe protruding out from the boot) and hence minimising wear. stand up to I propose 5mm • Heel lip indent (D) the wind should be horizontally flat for a distance of at least 40mm wide with an indent of 6mm • Rocker (E). This varies considerably in boots - between 8mm and 25mm. A certain amount of rocker helps walking which you do even in an ice climbing boot 90% of the time. A certain amount of rocker also helps put the foot in a natural climbing position. Walking boots usually have bigger rockers. I propose 15 mm as ideal for climbing boots. • Heel width (F). This Greater allows the crampon binding to pass over the heel without ob- compatibility struction. Due to boot construction many have a width of 75 will improve mm which is a bit tight for most crampons. reliability. I propose 73 mm ª Credit: Payne new Vapour-Rise • Toe shape (G in the diagram). It would be good to try and propose a toe shape or radius but different boot lasts and Photos: John & Anne Arran in Kyrgystan the size of the boot make this the most difficult dimension to propose. I have considered the fitting of crampons and if the toe Trail Zip Top ...... £65 rrp shape is too wide then the font bale does not lie correctly. If a Trail Jacket...... £80 rrp line is drawn across the toe of the boot 10mm back from the toe Trail Hooded Smock ...... £90 rrp and the width of the toe measured I believe this dimension is of interest to us. The figure for most boots of size 42 is between 50 available NOW at and 56mm. I propose the width should be between 50 and 55 mm. But there is a problem as this dimension changes with boot Badlands, Aberystwyth ...... 01970 625 453 Kentdale Rambler, Kendal .. 01539 729 188 BCH Camping, Bath ...... 01225 460 200 Lang & Hunter, Kingston...... 0181 546 5427 size and on smaller boots the crampons sides often stick out and Breaking Free, Farnham ...... 01252 724 347 Outside, on large sizes a secure placement is compromised. Some cram- Camping Centre, London .... 0207 328 2166 Hathersage, Derbyshire .... 01433 651 936 Llanberis, North Wales .... 01286 871 534 pons have the ability to adjust the front bale back and forth. Canyon Mountain Sports, This not only helps fit but it also allows control of the length of Leicester...... 0116 2557 957 No Sweat, Barnstaple ...... 01271 371 255 Snow & Rock, your front points. Country Wise, Wadebridge, Cornwall. .... 01208 812 423 Bristol ...... 0117 914 3000 Heel shape. This again can vary but not by as much M25 (Jct 11) Superstore .. 01932 566 886 • Crickhowell Adventure Gear, Holborn, London...... 0207 831 6900 and does not seem to affect crampon fit. Brecon ...... 01874 611 586 Kensington, London ...... 0207 937 0872 Leisure Quest, Swansea...... 01792 646 647 Birmingham ...... 0121 236 8280 Nevisport Ltd, SB&S Camping, Crampon manufacturers also need to look at their products. Middlesborough ...... 01642 248 916 Forest Row, Sussex ...... 01342 822 740 Newcastle ...... 0191 232 4941 Most toe bales of crampons are designed to work with boot toe Rock & Run, York...... 01904 639 567 Ambleside ...... 01539 433 660 heights of 20mm! The DMM Terminator appears to be one of Leeds ...... 0113 2444 715 Sheffield...... 0114 275 6429 the few designed to fit the boot average of 16.5 mm. Most cram- Chesterfield ...... 01246 201 437 Harrogate ...... 01423 562 874 YHA Shops, pons are designed to fit heels between 30mm and 40mm high and Nottingham ...... 0115 9503 455 Covent Garden, London .... 0207 836 8541 rockers of 15mm. However, even though heel widths of 75 mm Fort William ...... 01397 704 921 Manchester ...... 0161 834 7119 Glasgow ...... 0141 332 4814 Rock Face, Birmingham .... 0121 359 6419 and more are common, most crampons heel bales struggle to fit Edinburgh ...... 0131 229 1197 Brighton ...... 01273 821 554 over 75mm wide heels. If boots and crampons were made to the Open Spaces, Brighton ...... 01273 600 897 dimensions suggested above I believe they would be more com-

patible and perform better with increased safety. Rab Carrington Ltd, 32 Edward Street, Sheffield S3 7GB Tel: +44 (0) 114 275 7544 Fax: +44 (0) 114 278 0584 I would be interested to hear your views - please contact E-mail: [email protected] Web: www.rab.uk.com me via the BMC.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 19

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 19 2/10/00, 9:59 AM

GRIPPED? The future of our sport?

Help and guidance on Civil Liability and practical advice for Climbing Clubs which accept Under 18 year olds By Anne Arran incorporating advice from Stephen Porteus

ow did you start climbing? Today many peo- The most common ple encounter climbing from a very young age. They situation for BMC clubs Hare often not lucky enough to have parents who enjoy lies between the two stomping through peat bogs on a mist filled Kinder Plateau or where a keen young who partake in more gravity prone activities like sliding their climber with some expe- way up or down every route on Idwal slabs. Young climbers may rience requests to attend start from the age of 6 years upwards at their local wall club and your club meet perhaps An experienced young climber on a BMC Youth Meet are introduced to the delights of slopers, egyptions, stretching, with their parent who is Credit: Arran power endurance and if they are lucky the ethics of British climb- a non-climber. Many ing, injury prevention and warming up techniques. Others start clubs are unwilling to at their school, Sports Development Unit or through the local take on the responsibility of an under 18 whose parents are non youth service activity programme. Many young people who climbers. But for a club that wishes to develop, this is a key have begun climbing want to develop by joining a club, but on consideration and by understanding the situation and employing approaching their local group often get a very negative reaction. good practice the responsibility need not be overly daunting. So if The BMC is receiving an increasing number of enquiries from the club wants new young members how should it go about intro- young climbers, their parents and BMC clubs on how to climb ducing under 18’s to the club's activities? outside. Imagine a call from a keen Leo Holding lookalike to your mountaineering club: I want to climb. Please let me join your Duty of Care? club. As a club secretary what do you say?

The Duty of Care is increased for those in an elected position Understanding Liability and for those who take responsibility for junior members. This special duty of care is “to act as a reasonably prudent parent Negligence - as an individual would.” In this respect: As individuals we all owe a duty of care to our neighbours not to cause them injury by negligent acts or omissions. Neighbours It is reasonable for a parent to treat their children differ- are those people who are likely to be injured by your acts or • omissions. Your actions should be those of a “reasonable per- ently as they get older. There is a progressive transfer of respon- son” with your particular skills and qualifications. sibility from parent to child. • It is reasonable for a parent to treat their children differ- Negligence - as a club member & as a post holder ently as a novice in an activity than when they are experienced. What is a Club? - A club is simply a group of people with a common interest or objective. It is run by its members for its A club member involved with junior members should: Ensure members. It a group of individuals and not a separate legal entity their planned meet and route take account of the age and known like a Limited Company. The club member has the same duty to propensities of their keen child and exercise sound judgement in act with reasonable care to others as an individual does. There is accordance with their knowledge and experience. Lastly make sure a difference between the extremes of a club's activity where: their actions are in line with well developed and accepted practice.

• All participating have broadly similar climbing and moun The Venue taineering skills and experience ie. a ‘normal’ club meet. The duty of care here is the same as that between individual climbers. The BMC Club Guidance Notes give sound advice in this area. • A ‘Youth Meet’ where most of the participants are young “It is wise for clubs to consider their activities from a risk and climbers and at which some members may take on a quasi-in- safety point of view. This can be done by the effective process structor role and other organisational tasks. Here a greater duty of gaining experience by starting with easy objectives and mov- of care exists and the club is taking on a significant responsibility. ing on to more difficult ones. Clubs with beginners may wish to In particular those club members nominated as group leaders or give advice and guidance to novices. It is much easier for experi- instructors, or those advising parents, are taking on additional enced club members to give informal tuition or advice if they are personal responsibility. Clubs running ‘novice youth meets’ are operating in small groups and venues where there are the mini- strongly advised to contact the BMC Youth Officer or members mum of objective dangers. Individuals new to the activity may of the Youth Advisory Panel for detailed advice. not recognise any of the less obvious hazards. There should be an adequate level of supervision, the conditions should be suitable and proper equipment should be used.”

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23445_SUMMIT17.p65 22 2/10/00, 10:02 AM Parents

Getting to know your keen young climbers and their parents Sometimes clubs will only accept young members who are the children of existing members, who will then take responsibility for their offspring themselves. If the parents are not club members then to help your club accept young climbers the following advice will be useful.

Visit the parents Meet the child prior to a Club Meet to find out the parents attitude to climbing, the experience and interests and self-moti- Welcoming young climbers, hillwalkers and mountaineers in the vation of the young climber. Find out what right environment in a supportive inspires the child to climb or enjoy walk- atmosphere will have a positive ing. This is an opportunity to inform par- effect on the future of British ents about the activity and enable them to Climbing. understand it giving them the opportunity Credit: BMC Youth Meet to ask any questions. This can be done ver- bally and as part of the consent form. a useful aid to gauge their experience for BMC Youth Meets. The consent form Encourage them to make one if it does not exist. Details of the day’s activities should be included with every effort made to ensure that parents actually understand them. It is Insurance a good opportunity to find out about any medical conditions or eating habits that could affect the child during the Club meet. Parents must sign the written consent form. (Template available Members of climbing and mountaineering clubs must be in- from the BMC Office). Consent should be used with some flex- sured. BMC club members benefit from a comprehensive policy ibility depending on the age and experience of the aspirant young offering £3m per claim with no territorial limits. member. Initially consent forms should be completed for every club trip. Once the junior becomes an experienced accepted So to summarise: member of the club, consent may span a period of time of say 2 or 3 months, provided any new activities are cleared with the parents. It should include the BMC Participation Statement. • Find out the experience of the youth, if possible find The following is especially tailored for gripped? members some supporting evidence. Duty of Care decreases as a child gains more experience and/or as they approach 18. Risk with responsibility • Nominate climbing partners for the youth with an ap- Parents and young participants should be aware that climbing, propriate level of experience or qualification. Such individuals hillwalking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of need to act as a reasonably prudent parent would. The appropri- personal injury or death. Parents and participants in these ac- ate level of experience or qualification again varies with the child's tivities should be aware of and accept these risks and be respon- age and experience. At one end it would be expected that a twelve sible for their own actions and involvement. year old novice would be accompanied by a highly experienced & competent climber with experience of introducing novices of a Invite parents to observe a typical club trip wide range of ages and backgrounds. At the other extreme a highly An opportunity to meet the club members who will be climb- experienced climber just short of their 18th birthday need only be ing with their children. Describe the location and planned activ- accompanied by someone of comparable or greater experience. ity in detail. Give them feedback on how the day went from the • Ensure the activity is appropriate to a group including individual Club members point of view and that of the child. A good dialogue between parents and club is highly desirable in the young and potentially inexperienced climbers. initial stages of the relationship. • Brief the parents, make sure they and the child are as informed as possible about the risks involved, get consent and Experience? keep them informed. If possible involve the parent in club activity. • Make sure the club is properly insured. The club committee before they accept any new junior members need to be aware of the experience and ability and technical com- Stephen Porteus, Honorary BMC Legal Advisor has updated the petence of the child. This can be done through references but also BMC Club Guidance Notes, for those wishing to accept novices and backed up by experience on meets. References may be obtained young climbers. These are available from the BMC office. Advice from a wall club, school or a BMC gripped? meet. Some wall clubs on how to run a BMC Youth Meet solely for young climbers can encourage young climbers to write about their indoor and outdoor also be found on the website and it is strongly advised that support climbing experience and indeed demonstrate their skill level through from the BMC Youth Advisory Panel is gained. Information on BMC Youth Meet guidelines, near miss, accident and emergency fun badges. Some young climbers already keep a log of their expe- procedures and BMC volunteer training support are available. The rience to remember fun moments of their climbing or hill walking BMC new climbers' pack and gripped? magazine are useful refer- experience. A young person's log or record of climbing will become ence sources for clubs as well as being a helpful resource for clubs not wishing to accept young climbers.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 23

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 23 2/10/00, 10:10 AM FORUM Climbers, birds, and landowners

The weekend celebration of climbing Striking the balanceand mountaineeing II

eople have been campaigning for access rights since the ternational, and environmental issues are increasingly becoming 1880s with limited success. The scales have been tipped a major campaigning issue in general elections. How have con- Pagainst them. Today landowners, conservation bodies servationists achieved such force behind their movement? and recreational organisations all have interests to protect. How Each organisation is a specialist in a different area, with a different do we establish a ‘level playing-field’? campaigning style. Greenpeace, for example, is known for non- violent direct action to gain publicity. Other organisations, such as Landowners - Possession = 9 / 10 x law CPRE, are respected for Historically, landowners have had the power to deny access to their expertise in plan- millions of acres of open countryside and the political authority ning and countryside law, to ensure that it stays that way. “Unfair!” we cry. Rights of with a more conservative privacy and property have become deeply ingrained in our cul- campaigning style. A ture, those of individual freedom of movement across the land wide spectrum exists. less so. And now, in 2000, the Government intends to establish Together they add to the a right to walk and climb on open countryside. This goes some whole, with a synergistic way towards redressing the balance. But is it enough? effect which has placed environmental issues on Conservation - Output is > sum of the parts the political agenda in a The first wildlife protection organisation was formed in the way that 50 years ago 1880s – at the same time that access rights became an issue. The would not have been next century saw the formation of hundreds of others, of which considered possible. Dave Musgrove (L) and John Prescott (R) out today RSPB is the largest voluntary wildlife organisation in with the Ramblers Association in Yorkshire. Europe with over 1 million members. Conservation bodies have learned from the mistakes of the ‘flower power’ era of the 60s Recreation - An equal and opposite force? and 70s, when cries of “Rights for Butterflies” were greeted by So where does this leave the recreation lobby? Three hundred politicians with ridicule. The ‘conservation movement’ is now years ago, Newton, considering equilibrium, published his Third highly organised and effective, if poorly resourced. A profes- Law of Motion - “to every force there is an equal and opposite sional secretariat co-ordinates political activity; influence is in- force”. Is the ‘recreation movement’ an equal force to the land- owning or conservation lobbies? The Government, in giving recognition to the needs of walkers and climbers, is helping redress the balance. This is a small step towards establishing real standing for sport in the countryside. How should the recreational bodies create a real balance in the countryside between the interests of all users – be they on foot, on the wing or in a Landrover?

How should the BMC respond? Critics suggest on the one hand that the BMC should be fight- ing for “rights for climbers” (would this approach be any more effective than conservationists calling for “rights for butterflies”?), and on the other that we have insufficient influence at Westminster. Can any organisation credibly fulfil both roles? The last two years have seen the BMC undertake an unprecedented amount of work to create a political profile, and yet

Case 1: ‘It seems….that the BMC does more towards looking after the needs of bird organisations and the like than the needs and rights of climbers. If the BMC isn’t to be seen merely as a dutiful and compliant creature of non-climbing interest groups it needs to get its act together and push…the rights of climbers as forcefully as other organisations push their rights. Otherwise they are selling us short and letting us down. Climbers will do their own thing if they sense that is happening. The last thing we want is for individuals to start ignoring perfectly valid restrictions because they have lost faith in the current system. It's time to draw a line in the sand and clearly and unequivocally stand up for the rights of climbers..…’ Dr Simon Taylor (Manchester) – from High, Jan 2000

(LEFT) Joelle Allen at Bamford. Credit: Alex Messenger

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 24 2/10/00, 10:14 AM I Science in the countryside Centuries ago scientists recognised that some form of equilibrium, or balance, exists in the universe. But does this universe include the countryside of England and Wales…? Susanna Perkins puts it under the microscope. 1500 Bolt on holds

Dave Musgrove, John Prescott & Susanna Perkins Dave Timms (see letters page) believes that the BMC is “trot- discussing the Countryside Bill in Yorkshire. ting along behind” the Ramblers Association. What can we learn The NIA roof has the capacity to from the achievements of the conversation movement? rise or fall depending on rain/ When it comes to seasonal birdsnow nesting etc. The restrictions, wall must berecent free evi- The crystal ball dence would suggest that the BMChanging, can and do nonot right. fixed toOn the the one Successful campaigning is about achieving change. Two things are hand some climbers feel that floor,the BMC otherwise is not if wedoing had enougha white to December, something rather certain: it is more efficient to influence the process that creates prob- ‘push the rights of climbers’ (Case 1), and on the other hand, the dramatic would happen.! lems for climbersProfile thanPanel address each issue as it arises; and it is more BMC has been held up by some conservation bodies for being Built to the new effective to system.originallywork with partners than alone. My view is that the BMC too demanding and questioning about restrictions (Case 2). EU standard should be alongsidebought by the the RA, BMC and anyone else whose objectives we in 1994, reused in a share. And we must all be heading in the same direction. Where does this leave us and what does it tell us? new modular Takes 580 man Within theconfiguration. sport of climbing BMC supporters are not slow to hours to put voice their views – take the bolts debate, for example. Within sport 1. That the current balance is about right?together in general the BMC contributes fully to the work of the Central 2. That there is room for improvement at certain key Council of Physical Recreation and the Sports Councils in develop- crags? or ing policies on equity, special needs, safety issues, funding etc. 3. That the BMC’s approach needs a complete overhaul? Within countryside management as a whole we have a problem. The key message that has been learned from the access legislation is that The truth probably lies in a combination of 1 & 2, but let us we need to have more influence at the level of local and national consider things a little further. For over 20 years the BMC, government, countryside agencies, and National Park Authorities, climbers and ornitholgists have worked together to agree volun- to name but a few. If outdoor recreation is to be regarded as an equal tary access arrangements which protect nesting peregrine, chough force in the countryside we need more influence with policy makers. and certain seabirds, whilst allowing reasonable levels of access How do we do it? My feeling is that it is time climbers and walkers for climbers. Government agencies and the RSPB cite these got around the table with canoeists, horseriders, cyclists and others partnership arrangements as a model of good practice in manag- to explore our commons goals, with a view to achieving them, not ing access in environmentally sensitive areas. Today, most of the just crying “unfair!”. If conservationists can do it, why can’t we? seasonal restrictions in the Lakes, Gogarth, the Ormes, Pembroke, Gower, Swanage, Portland and many other crags, operate effec- Under the microscope tively, are regularly monitored and reviewed and are generally ‘Is the BMC striking the right balance between promoting ac- respected by climbers. cess for climbers and supporting legitimate restrictions? BMC As conservation legislation tightens it will be increasingly im- Access & Conservation Officer Dave Turnbull explains: portant that climbers help to maintain and promote this healthy balance – and be seen to be doing so. It will call for compromise and under- Case 2: "The partnership that has evolved [in standing from all parties Pembroke] since the late 1970’s between the BMC but will ensure that re- and organisations involved with the seasonal cliff strictions retain their cred- climbing restrictions is…often cited as an example ibility amongst a climbing of ‘good practice’. Recently there have been sev- community that is feeling eral examples of how we feel the positive nature of increasingly threatened. our previous partnership has started to break Get your ticket down. We have always felt that the positive approach taken, which has involved much discus- NOW sion and compromise from both sides, has led to If the BMC is being very beneficial results that have justified the time criticised from both and effort….necessary to achieve them. We are sides perhaps the concerned that … the very positive nature of the balance is about partnership and mutual trust that has been right? developed….are being questioned and therefore appear to be under threat" (joint letter from MoD, Pembrokeshire Coast National Park Authority and Countryside Council for Wales), 24 Nov 1999.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 25

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 25 2/10/00, 10:15 AM BIRDS: Update 2000

esting restrictions have been a hot topic in the climbing press over the past year. The main restricted crags are Nnow widely known by climbers, detailed arrangements change from year to year as birds set up new nest sites or vacate traditional sites. The following summary shows the main changes WHEN IT COMES over the past year – the full list will be available from the BMC and climbing walls in early March.

TO CLIMBING, South Wales The complexity of the restrictions in Pembrokeshire reflects the areas' international importance for both climbing and nesting WE LEAVE EVERYONE birds. This year a new system for monitoring and recording nesting birds and seasonal restrictions is being set up and a group of climbers and ornithologists is meeting to review access arrangements. A STANDING. survey of nesting patterns is also being carried out by boat to ensure that restricted areas are accurately defined. The Range West open- ing date is two weeks earlier this year. Climbing will be permitted from Sunday 30 July and the briefings are at the Warehouse, Glouces- When you come climbing at Plas y Brenin, we make ter (15 June), Plas y Brenin (8 July) and Castlemartin (29 July). sure you get the highest standard of outdoor The restriction at Mewsford Point (which has caused confusion for years) has been clarified - Lateral Bearings, Daydreams & Night- experience. Here at the National Mountain Centre, mare on Lily Street will be restricted from 1 Mar to 31 July (this will deep in the heart of Snowdonia, everything we be lifted early if chough have not nested by 31 May). On Gower, the National Trust will lift the Yellow Wall restriction early if provide is maintained at an incredibly high chough are not nesting by the end of May. standard, that has to be seen to be believed. South West and Southern It’s these impeccable standards in every department At Swanage last summer a boat survey of the cliffs was under- that leave other outdoor centres trailing in our taken by BMC Access Rep Steve Taylor, Durlston Country Park and the RSPB. Restrictions have been lifted at Boulder Ruckle shadow. The Instruction’s first class, with all our Central between Rif-Raf and Marmolata (including Finale Groove); climbing instructors both highly qualified and vastly Boulder Ruckle Far East between Airy Legs and Subliminal Traverse, and; at Tilly Whim West between Turkish Delight and Llama Rounda- experienced, but more than that, you’ll find they’re bout. Some new restrictions have been agreed on less important enthusiastic too. They love to climb, just like you and cliffs including Boulder Ruckle West between Sardine Special and Hard Day’s Night (peregrine nesting) and Andycap to Raindrop. At that’s why they’re keen to pass their knowledge and Baggy Point the National Trust will lift the Promontory restric- expertise on. tion early in the season if the peregrine does not nest. At Berry Head, the Rainbow Bridge restriction may also be lifted early - The equipment you’ll use is modern, well maintained contact the Ranger (01803-882619) to check. and, most importantly, included in the price. And the Reviewing good news doesn’t stop there either, you’ll find our nesting patterns at hotel standard accommodation and food and Swanage facilities astounding too. Credit: Steve Taylor So whether you’re thinking of booking on a two-day introduction to climbing or a week-long advanced lead coaching course, you’re bound to be impressed. If you’d like a copy of our free, 40-page, colour brochure listing our complete climbing programme, don’t stand around, telephone 01690 720214now, Lakes The peregrine and raven restrictions are likely to be similar to or have a look at our website on http//:www.pyb.co.uk. last year. Site review meetings with the National Park and English Nature are planned for late April and the restrictions will be lifted early if birds are not nesting.

Please send me the 2000 Plas y Brenin Brochure. Peak/Cheshire There will be no restriction at the Baldstones this year as the Name ring ouzels have not been nested in recent years. At Hen Cloud, the precautionary restriction will be monitored in Feb/Mar and the Address lifted early if ring ouzel are not nesting. Climbers are asked to avoid Ravensdale and the Twicker bay at Millstone if ravens are nesting early in the season - please check for notices on site. The restriction signs placed in Cheedale last year by Derbyshire Wild- S/F Postcode life Trust were not supported by the BMC as there were no housemartins nesting on the cliffs. There may be some changes to PLAS Y BRENIN the Helsby restriction – again check for notices or contact the National Mountain Centre Canolfan Fynydd Genedlaethol BMC for details. Capel Curig Conwy LL24 OET Telephone 01690 720214 Facsimile 01690 720394 Note: Restrictions vary from year to year and can change at short notice - if in any doubt please contact the BMC or visit our website. 26 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 26 2/15/00, 2:54 PM

FORUM FEEDBACK - THE SPA AWARD

those with special needs. In order to be able to lead this activity, THE Forum article in Summit 16 has I completed the Southern Sandstone Supervisors Award, and in generated quite a post bag. The S.P.A due course attended an S.P.A training course. I found it interest- and the way in which it is taught and ing and went away with many things to think about and work on. I increased my experience in many different environments and used is an emotive matter. Here we felt able to put myself forward for assessment. publish two responses which typify the I travelled to the Jesse James bunkhouse in Snowdonia with a feedback recieved and a response friend from my college who was also to be assessed. In conversation she explained to me that she had not completed the specified from Andy Newton, the new M.L.T.B amount of climbs so was expecting to be deferred. During the Development Officer. evening the assessor (an M.I.C) led a discussion about the award. I share the belief of the M.L.T.B that leaders of mountain activities should be active climbers. During this informal exchange of A BIT HARSH? views it became clear that the assessor and I did not share common philosophies. He even went as far as stating that during a by Nev Holmes (S.P.A) session “a supervisor shouldn't climb”. I have just read the Forum section of issue 16 dealing with S.P.A. Saturday dawned wet, cold and windy. We went to The Gribin I am surprised that S.P.A holders warrant such generalised criti- Facet where we looked at setting up. On at least three occasions cism. I believe that the incident men- the assessor asked me to perform tasks that I did not understand. tioned in Ray Wood’s letter to be His instructions were unclear not only to me but to the other an isolated one. Every S.P.A holder candidates. He failed to clarify them when requested. Already I have ever met whilst working in feeling nervous after the previous evenings' discussions, my con- the outdoors has been a committed fidence diminished and I found myself performing poorly. After climber. Committed not only to the lunch we went to Tin Can Alley at the back of Ogwen Cafe to do sport but also to the environment more setting up and some rescues. It was here that the assessor that they find themselves in con- saw me place my only piece of gear in the entire weekend! tact with. It is somewhat hurtful to On Sunday we set up releasable abseils, and again I found my- be tarred with the brush of irrespon- self making stupid mistakes. At one point the assessor undid the sibility just because of the actions gate on the karabiner while I wasn’t looking. I pride myself on of the few. For example, lots of peo- being meticulous about checking details like this but nerves seemed ple have driving licences which they to be against me and I failed to check it a second time. have had to pass a test to obtain. At the end of the weekend during the individual debrief I was Yet people still speed, drink and drive etc. Does this mean all told I had been deferred. I was understandably disappointed and drivers are responsible? Of course not. whilst accepting constructive criticism I felt the weekend had It seems that as soon as you get that little sticker you are no lacked certain crucial aspects. longer a normal climber, you know the ones that leave litter everywhere and fag butts in cracks, but one of those that actually a) The syllabus was not covered in its entirety. want to introduce people to the sport and maybe give your b) I believe the role of the assessor is to bring out the best in the client’s personal development a boost in the process. I am quite candidates surprised to hear the training officer of the M.L.T.B has got a c) Personality differences seemed to play a crucial and unbal- downer on personal development! A mentally disabled child will anced part in the assessment. probably not want to become seriously involved in climbing but overcoming what they perceive to be a dangerous situation (such The assessor was unable to answer any of my concerns and ad- as an abseil) can do miraculous wonders for their self esteem and vised me not to appeal, as there was “no point”. Sour grapes I hear self confidence. It is true Mr Last I have seen it happen. you say. However, my profile had been written by Sean Hewlett, I do agree that there is no excuse for unsafe or antisocial behav- another S.P.A provider that I had been working with. He had seen iour from an instructor, or any climber for that matter. But please me leading groups climbing and abseiling and felt sure I was up to the give the majority of us mere S.P.A holders some credit for at least standard, and had sufficient experience. He was incredibly support- a little intelligence and integrity. You can if you wish give the ive and did all he could to find out what went wrong. He called the prats involved with the Baggy incident (A Messenger article) assessor to clarify my future preparation needs. He advised me not and Mr Wood’s article a swift kick in the privates from those of to appeal. As somebody starting out in the outdoor industry, I was us that actually care about what we do. aware that I couldn’t afford to openly question the judgement of the people who are in control of the organisation. One thing obvious during the weekend was the lack of personal THE SUPERVISOR climbing. This makes up half of the award. I appreciate that the inclement weather made it difficult, perhaps even dangerous to SHOULDN'T CLIMB! lead at severe grade, but the principle of being able to lead climb Words and pictures by Kevin Harvey is a fundamental part of the syllabus. I was left wondering whether There have been many articles in the climbing press recently I had been assessed for the S.P.A or just the bits the assessor about the Single Pitch Award and the positive experiences it thought were important. gives to people. I was a firm believer in the award and what it This was compounded by my friend passing. She had not done stands for, but I have in the past had a very negative experience. enough climbing at the necessary grade but this did not seem to I looked forward to the challenge of my assessment, but the bother the assessor, even though he did not look at our personal reality left me disillusioned and concerned for other climbers. climbing at all. I do feel that my friend is an excellent supervisor, Over recent years, I have become interested in climbing (as well but should she have passed? as other pursuits) and its value to young people particularly Four months after this experience, I felt ready to be reassessed.

28 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 28 2/15/00, 2:55 PM D TUCKLAND Mary Twomey of Pathways, based in Lancashire, conducted the assessment. I enjoyed the weekend as did the other candi- MOUNTAIN, HILL & TREKKING FOOTWEAR dates, and felt that Mary brought out the best in us. She even arranged a group of young people to work with at Windgather Rocks, an unfamiliar crag, which tested both my technical and Tibeka GT RRP £79.95 soft skills fully but fairly. We spent a whole day on personal Top of the range “fabric boot” model. skills-leading, seconding, setting up, using a guidebook, discuss- Suitable for 3-4 season fell walking; ing protection, etc. The importance she placed on the personal 3 season hill walking competence element of the syllabus was in stark contrast to my and year-round low level walking. previous experience of “I don’t believe supervisors need to be Features: Upper-Suede/Cordura. climbers". Since then, I have spoken to a number of candidates Gore-Tex lined. and S.P.A providers, who also feel disillusioned with the award Sole-Rubber outsole and the way some people deliver it. Worryingly, the same names + Low density PU midsole & rand. seem to be cropping up over and over. Weight - 1300g. Colour - Grey. This has left me with a Sizes - 36-47 number of concerns. a) Is the personal climbing el-

ement of the award as impor- Theo RRP £39.95 tant as I (and others) feel it is? The Theo is a stylish and b) Is one nut placement suffi- functional shoe which utilizes cient to judge a candidates abil- many design features from ity to use artificial protection? the Tuckland boot range. Suitable for town and c) Why is there such a dif- country use where ference in S.P.A providers, not maximum ankle support only in their styles but also in is not a consideration. Features: what they look for? Upper-Suede/Cordura. d) Is it for assessors to see Sole-High density PU outsole what we can do, or find what + Low density midsole. we cannot? Weight - 1060g. Colour - Taupe Blue or Camel. e) Does the M.L.T.B have a Sizes - 36-47 way of regulating providers? f) If the assessor ridicules the appeals process, is there any point in having one? Patricia GT RRP £69.95 While I would fully encourage people to enter schemes such as Ladies version of the popular Polo GT. Suitable for 3 season hill walking the S.P.A, I appreciate there are many like me who find assess- and year-round low level walking. ments very difficult. The only advice I can give is to prepare for Features: the process as well as practicing the technical skills required in it. Upper-Suede/Cordura. There are some great assessors out there, so do some research Gore-Tex lined. Sole-High density PU outsole and make sure you find one that will get the best out of you and + Low density midsole. the assessment process. Weight - 1100g. Colour - Lavender. THE M.L.T.B RESPONDS: Sizes - 36-42 Andy Newton Nev makes a number of comments that certainly strike a chord MADE BY SPANISH CRAFTSMEN FOR BRITISH-MADE FEET. with myself, having spent decades trying to persuade recreational climbers that instructors are climbers too, and that any Tuckland footwear is made in Spain by expert bootmakers working instructor has a duty to demonstrate best practice what- who have produced this new collection exclusively for the British market. ever they are doing. The U.K.Tuckland range has been designed to meet our particular demands We were very concerned to hear about Kevin’s negative expe- and preferences. For instance: we like our walking boots to be fairly stiff; rience. Our moderation programme has made considerable strides towards uniformity of standard within all our awards, but yes, many of us demand water-resistant Gore-Tex linings; there is a very tiny minority of providers who seem to be men- some of us prefer traditional full grain leather uppers; tioned rather too often. The assessment he undertook does not and we like to have a fairly broad fit. appear to be have been very satisfactory – we have identified the This distinctive range of walking boots and shoes, course he attended and the provider concerned – and we will has been designed to offer maximum comfort, performance and style investigate this further. We do need to know, preferably in writing, when problems like this arise. We would invite Kevin to get all at highly affordable prices. in touch directly via the Capel Curig office, as we have an open and thorough appeals procedure; Kevin should not have been For details of full range and stockists contact told anything to the contrary. Andy will be expanding on this issue in Summit 18 as U.K. distributor Allcord Ltd well as writing to Kevin directly. TELEPHONE HOTLINE 0191-284 8444

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23445_SUMMIT17.p65 29 2/15/00, 2:57 PM

THE STONE SENTINEL Aconcagua: First time Expedition leader Duncan Bell

looks at the perils, pitfalls and practical advantages of SCOTLAND running your own expedition to the greater ranges. Aberdeen Marshalls 01224 636952 Aberdeen Tiso 01224 634934 Aviemore Cairngorm Mountain Sports 01479 810729 Ayr Tiso 01292 288885 Braemar Braemar Mountain Sports 013397 41242 Dundee Tiso 01382 221153 East Kilbride Tiso 01355 238383 Edinburgh Nevisport 0131 229 1197 Edinburgh Tiso 0131 225 9486 Fort William West Coast Outdoor Leisure 01397 705777 Fort William Nevisport 01397 704921 Glasgow Nevisport 0141 332 4814 Glasgow Tiso 0141 248 4877 Inverness Tiso 01463 716617 Leith Tiso 0131 554 0804 Paisley Summits 0141 887 5536

ENGLAND Altrincham Nevisport 0161 928 6613 Ambleside Climbers Shop 015394 32297 Sunrise on Aconcagua. Credit: Bell Ambleside Rock & Run 015394 33660 Arundel Peglers 01903 883375 ack in September 1998, I started to wonder what to do ends of climbing, hillwalking and Ashby de la Zouch Outdoor Quest 01530 415003 for the Millennium. Lying drunk in gutters being a regu formal meeting sessions to dis- Bath Adrenalin High 01225 429242 Blar occupation of mine, I felt the need to do something cuss such matters as route choice, Bedford Two Seasons 01234 350720 a little bit special. Three criteria came to mind: To be as far South schedule, gear, fitness, medicine, Brighton Open Spaces 01273 600897 as possible (for the sun), to be as high as possible, and to be with weather etc. Elland BAC Outdoor Leisure 01422 371146 Hathersage Outside 01433 651936 friends. Mount Vinson being too expensive and difficult to ac- “Aconcagua, a Climbing Guide” Keswick George Fisher 017687 72178 cess, I set upon Aconcagua, at 6956m. Not only one of the Seven by RJ Secor became our bible, and Keswick Needlesports 017687 72227 Summits but also the highest mountain on earth outside of the the internet a source of further Kingston-on-Thames Lang & Hunter 0181 546 5427 Himalayas. I knew of Aconcagua through articles in climbing information particularly on such Leeds Nevisport 0113 2444715 magazines and then got more detailed information from regional matters as altitude sickness (on London Urban Rock 0181 211 0475 guidebooks, the internet, and word of mouth. An alternative would which we all became paper ex- London Lillywhites 0171 915 4000 have been to consult the expedition reports registries at the BMC, perts). The team had specific re- Middlesborough Nevisport 01642 248916 Milton Keynes Outdoor Shop 01908 568913 sponsibilities – for equipment, Royal Geographical Society, or the Alpine Club. The more detail Newcastle Upon Tyne Wild Trak 0191 261 8582 you can find out early on about your possible objective, the planning, logistics and so on. West Newcastle upon Tyne Nevisport 0191 232 4941 better, but even for a “popular” summit like Aconcagua, reality Coast Outdoor Leisure in Fort Nottingham Nevisport 0115 950 3455 is sometimes far removed from the literature, so try to be con- William were key to our success, ReadingCarter & Sons 0118 957 5589 servative about your ambition. the expertise of their staff in ad- Richmond Lang & Hunter 0181 940 9283 The first big job was recruitment. Aconcagua has the reputa- vising six novices on equipment Sheffield Outside 0114 275 4947 tion of a trekking peak but its altitude and climate account for appropriate to those extreme con- Sheffield Rock & Run 0114 275 6429 Shrewsbury High Sports 01743 231649 their fair share of mountaineers, and I had already started ogling ditions being second to none. Skipton George Fisher 01756 794305 the “Polish Glacier” – the easiest climbing route on the mountain Much of our gear came from Stafford Stafford Outdoor 01785 240594 but substantially harder than the normal route. Living down South Mountain Equipment, again with Stoke on Trent Mountain Fever 01782 266137 I’m not surrounded by climbers or experienced high altitude virtually no complaints on usage. Wellingborough Tradewinds 01933 276632 mountaineers, and a personal height record of Mont Blanc (feel- However, a word to the wise: York Nevisport 01904 639567 ing sick as a dog, wearing Ronhills and bendy boots) meant that never go on expedition with un- this was truly going to be an amateur expedition. But I’m fortu- tested gear. Equipment from WALES Abergavenny Crickhowell 01873 856 581 nate in knowing a lot of outdoors people with their heads screwed stoves to gaiters behaves unpre- Brecon Crickhowell 01874 611586 on. This, rather than specialist experience, was the key determi- dictably at altitude and under Capel CurigJoe Brown 01690 720205 nant in my choice of team. In all, I contacted perhaps twenty stress. Whilst it is impossible to Cardiff Up & Under 01222 578579 people back in Jan 99. Being the Millennium, only those paying simulate the conditions it is im- Crickhowell Crickhowell 01873 810020 flights by the end of February could go, and a number of friends perative to intimately understand Llanberis Joe Brown 01286 870327 understandably didn’t want to commit to anything at that stage. the idiosyncracies of each in or- Llanberis Outside 01286 871534 By hook or by crook I assembled a team of six. This was the der to make adjustments and re- IRELAND most important part of the planning process – the team knew pairs in the field. (We spent a Belfast Tiso 01232 231230 each other well, would get on under trying circumstances, and week in the Alps which helped Galway River Deep Mountain High (00 353) 91 63938 the various personalities would lend balance to the decision mak- on this front). Limerick River Deep Mountain High (00 353) 61 400944 ing – a lucky break. We opted for the best commer- Londonderry Tiso 01504 370056 Then came the real work – equipping the team with skills, gear cially available gear. Aconcagua See our international website at www.marmot.com and crucially expectations appropriate to the trip. Half the team has a fearsome reputation for weather, with storms including For catalogue and further enquiries call LYON EQUIPMENT had never before set foot on a glacier, only two of us were profi- on 015396 25493 cient in ropework (and that was more or less limited to single 150mph winds and temperatures or e-mail us on [email protected] pitch crag climbing.) We were also spread across the country that plummed to –40C which pre- between Northampton, Cardiff and Leeds (one member being in cluded us from skimping on cloth- Germany all year). We got together roughly monthly for week- ing and camping kit. Fortunately,

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23445_SUMMIT17.p65 31 2/10/00, 10:32 AM INFORMATION

that we ate enough, just. The advantages of taking an hour each morning to double your porridge intake should not be neglected, as days at altitude tend to be relatively short (4-5 hrs except summit day). Equally, day food is critical as some people need to eat continually all day in order to continue whereas others don’t eat at all. Don’t let this group do the shopping! Shopping in itself can be an unnerving experience – we had planned on lots of chocolate and “power bars” for lunches, and were dismayed to find neither on sale. Again, being flexible and knowing the language are vital to this part of the planning. Five of us used 8 litres of white gas (nearly Coleman fuel) in 14 days, but appreciably more was used at higher altitudes. Don’t take petrol lighters as the petrol evaporates, do take plenty of matches and gas lighters for back up are probably best. In practice, and contrary to most official advice, these are probably the only spares you should bring. Weight becomes more important than subjective safety and the spare pair of gloves, sunglasses etc will almost certainly be left out of your day sack. Certainly all our best intentions failed! And so on to the expedition itself. Again, we got lucky by my having a friend travelling through Argentina who helped us out over there. He found us a hostel, a supermarket and a place to buy white gas; he told us how and where to get climbing permits and transport to the roadhead. He helped us secure mules for the Looking toward the Summit from camp. Credit: Bell walk in for our gear and ultimately he accompanied us up the Polish glacier (Dave had always been a possible team member but the rest of the group wanted to meet him first). An easy if in the event, the weather we had to deal with was much milder less sociable alternative to Dave are “smoothing charges” – pay- than this. able to seemingly everyone you meet – which can save a day or Official funding for these expeditions is hard to come by; most two of hassle and a lot of frustration. Small co-operatives have bodies reserve their pots for first or first British ascents by elite sprung up in Mendoza, and we could have made a single upfront teams rather than our novices’ effort. However, by bulk buying payment for all the services that Dave ultimately arranged, at equipment and securing articles such as this we managed to bring both ends of the journey. The internet is probably the easiest the costs down significantly. But be warned – the sponsorship place to find these groups. arena is a competitive one and finding an “angle” is vital. Local We acclimatised over the course of 2 weeks by following the newspapers are always keen on local interest stories, and the tried and tested “climb high, sleep low” theory which worked well more coverage you can offer manufacturers, the more they are – none of the group experienced anything worse than continuous likely to offer you cheap kit. Alternatives could include gear fatigue and persistent headaches. No advice that I can give here testing (unlikely) or loaning equipment, but be prepared for a lot could supplant the extensive writings that exist on this subject. of rejections. You could also climb for a charity as we did (The We successfully summitted at 6.30pm on New Year’s Eve, and Bendrigg Trust, an outdoor pursuits charity for disabled children returned to our tents after a 22 hour day at 1.30am so exhausted based in Kendal) although this has little direct bearing on the that not one of us realised we’d just walked through the millen- willingness of manufacturers to supply kit. nium. On the way we’d been horrified to see a dead body (I You must also be flexible. Two of the team members dropped thought that only happened in the Himalaya), happy to help a out in late summer, leaving us with just four. Whilst concerned at group in trouble with hypothermia, and relieved to get to the top the loss of two friends, and concerned at our eventual ability to after a small storm hit the mountain as we neared the summit help a team mate in trouble, we ultimately realised that the ridge. In retrospect, we probably ran excessive risks by not logistical simplicity and speed offered by a party of four makes turning back earlier, by continuing through the storm and by it a very effective mountaineering unit indeed. However, the ab- giving away all our emergency gear to the team in trouble – but sence of a qualified doctor on the team posed a number of prob- aren’t decisions like these part of the essence of mountaineering. lems, in the newsletter updates I wrote following each meeting it was made clear that “Ketch”, ex nurse and shortly to start at med school, was under no responsibility for the outcome of any diag- Aconcagua fact file summary nosis and treatment he might undertake for any of us. And vice Aconcagua, known as the stone sentinel by the Incas, is the versa should he be the sick one. highest mountain outside of the Himalaya at 6956m. It lies close One of the key jobs was that of planning and managing the to the Chile/Argentine border, about 100 miles North East of logistics, in particular food and fuel. People burn food at varying Santiago, but is wholly within Argentina. Best time to climb is rates, and respond to repetitive food in varying ways. We wrongly Dec-early Mar, February seems to be the most popular. assumed we could eat (very) similar meals every day for 3 weeks. You can get to Aconcagua either from Buenos Aires, the capital Unfortunately, not only does good food become vital at altitude, of Argentina or from Santiago, the capital of Chile. From Buenos but we also never suffered the supposed effect of high altitude Aires it is a couple of hours flying time to Mendoza (or a very anorexia. Indeed, we were permanently starving and the only long coach journey). From Chile you can either take a 40 min constraint was how long we could be bothered to wait for (5 min plane trip back across the Andes to Mendoza, or go by road. A pasta can take 40 mins + to cook at 5000m). Three stoves be- climbing permit is required, this is obtained in person from the tween five was a minimum as one was continually malfunction- Subsecretariat of Tourism office in the centre of Mendoza. ing, and a couple of (different) team members were each day too For a full Aconcagua fact sheet contact the BMC information shattered to do more than sit and watch, and the net result was service. Fact sheets are free to BMC members.

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23445_SUMMIT17.p65 32 2/10/00, 10:33 AM HOMEHOMEHOME ALONEALONEALONE A BUYER'S GUIDE TO MOUNTAIN TENTS

Mountain Hardware's Rob Wylie gives a personal insight into the science and art of mountain tent design in the new century.

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23445_SUMMIT17.p65 33 2/15/00, 2:38 PM ESSENTIAL EQUIPMENT "Pole and SLEEVE" OVER THE LAST 15 YEARS TENT DESIGNS HAVE EVOLVED ALMOST BEYOND Or "Pole and clip"? RECOGNITION

Now a lot goes into making a modern mountain tent. New Pole and Sleeve features and innovations have been added. Assembly methods Without question a continuous sleeve is the superior of the improved and many new fabrics and materials way out perform two. A continuous sleeve allows each tent pole to slide through previous industry standards. Therefore, most modern high-end the sleeve in one continuous push. Non-continuous sleeves re- tents are stronger, lighter and far better featured as a result. quire the user to ‘thread’ the pole through each sleeve section. In all cases, sleeves are better if manufactured from mesh. A non- When considering which mountain tent is best for you many mesh sleeve reduces the flow of air and ventilation to practically personal factors come into consideration, the intended use, sleep- zero, significantly increasing condensation inside the tent. As a ing capacity, weight and naturally cost. rule, continuous sleeve tents are more expensive than non-continuous sleeves and mesh sleeves are more expensive than non- mesh sleeves. A pole and sleeve tent (particularly continuous sleeve) has the benefit of being almost an ‘idiot proof pitch’.

Pole and Clip The tent pole is connected to the tent via a series of clips placed along the arch line of the pole. Recently many high-end mountain tent designers (particularly in the US) have been adopting the pole and clip method in preference to pole and sleeve. This type of design offers some significant performance advantages.

1. Peg Down Pitching. Unlike a pole and sleeve tent, the tent inner is pegged out prior to pitching. The pitching process is much simpler when the tent is firmly POLE Configuration anchored. Particularly useful in high winds. Mountain use above the snow line requires, above everything 2. Ventilation. As no sleeves impede the free flow of air else, a stable structure. The biggest contributor to stability is around the tent, ventilation is kept to a maximum and pole geometry. A geodesic or semi-geodesic tent is the most reli- condensation to a minimum. Also, the distance ably stable structure in a mountain environment. Four poles in between tent fly and inner is greater, which avoids the the tent body make this design perfect for serious use in high inner touching the outer in wet weather. wind and snow. The more pole crossing points (or intersections) 3. Weight. No Sleeves mean less weight and smaller pack the stronger the tent. A seven-pole intersection construction is size. always stronger than a five-pole intersection. The higher number of intersections help to further strengthen the structure and pre- vent any distorting of the tent body, particularly important in high winds for example. The Tent FLYSHEET Tent flysheets are constructed from fabric panels, cut and then Pole MATERIALS sewn together. Usually the seams are taped on the inside of the Tent poles are made from a variety of different materials. Most flysheet (much like a waterproof jacket) to ensure a complete mountain tents use aluminium, but the generic phrase ‘aluminium’ weatherproof canopy. Some manufacturers now adopt what is covers a wide variety of alloys. However, one such alloy stands termed a ‘catenary cut’ on these panels. They are cut with a out from the rest. Easton 7075 E9 aluminium has been supplied concave rather than straight edge, which increases the taughtness to the US aeronautical industry for decades. Tent poles con- of the pitch and in-turn, decreases weight and fabric usage. What- structed from Easton aluminium have probably seen more days ever the tent fly fabric, the demands of a mountain tent user are expedition use than the combined total of all other alloy tent pole very similar. The fabric must be lightweight, packable, strong, manufacturers. 7075 E9 Aluminium is hardened for strength and durable and waterproof. Three tent fabrics are commonly found rigidity and anodised for durability, producing a tent pole that on mountain tents. out performs other aluminium alloys or fibreglass poles. As the poles are anodised they can also be coloured differently for ease Nylon (Silicone Elastomer Coated) of pitching, particularly if the poles are colour coded to corre- Have a high tear strength, a good waterproof level and good spond with the stake-out loops. UV resistance. So it is a capable all round performer. Nylon Whatever the tent pole configuration, some method of connect- elastomer flysheets are very expensive and care must be taken ing the span of the poles to the tent canopy has to be adopted. when cooking near the tent or in the porch, this fabric is very Pole and sleeve tents come in two different types, continuous flammable. and non-continuous sleeve:

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Nylon (Polyurethane Coated) durable it will be. However, a balance is required as a higher Have good tear strength, a good waterproof level and good UV number of passes and a thicker coating can often reduce the tear resistance (although not quite as high as a silicone elastomer strength of the fabric. This illustrates the importance of tent coating). Nylon flysheets stretch when wet, so it is important to manufacturers rigorously researching and testing materials, not have a tent with adjustable fly tensioners to keep it drum tight in just adopting the philosophy that bigger must be better. the rain. Groundsheet construction Polyester (Polyurethane Coated) A bathtub groundsheet, as the name suggests, aims to provide Have adequate tear strength, a good waterproof level and good a fully taped waterproof tub construction. In most bathtub de- UV resistance (If a thicker denier yarn is used polyester has a signs the ‘sides’ of the tub are around 10-15cm high around the very high UV resistance but lightweight tents use lightweight perimeter. The perimeter seam of the tent sits at ground level fabrics, only offering a good level of UV resistance). Polyester but is totally taped from the inside (like the fly) providing a flysheets have lower tear strength than Nylon and also polyes- water tight seal. Any seams that cross the tent floor are also ter is prone to fading in extended sunlight. taped from inside.

An off-ground perimeter seam• uses Low a different flying aircraft method participate of providing a totally waterproof barrier.in peace To keeping keep the and critical humanitarian floor-to- relief operations worldwide and mili- sidewall seam up off the ground the tent has slightly shorter cut tary Search and Rescue missions in the sidewalls and a wider floor. UK.This liftsFor theover perimeter 1,200 people seam last off yearthe floor by a minimum of 10cma low around flying the SAR perimeter helicopter of was the a tent, very creating a waterproof tub. Thiswelcome also places sight. the floor seam under the fly for extra weather protection(details and suppliedincreases theby tautnessSquadron of the tent pitch. Any seams thatLeader cross Tom the tentRounds, floor MoD are alsoWhitehall). taped from inside.

A perimeter seam tent is similar to the off ground seam but without the shorter cut sidewalls and wider floor. Hence the perimeter seam doesn’t lift off the floor. This type of floor is less waterproof than the bathtub groundsheet or off ground perimeter seam but gives a tauter pitch. Any seams that cross the tent floor are generally taped from the inside. Recently mountain tent flysheets have seen some interesting Whatever construction the tent groundsheet employs it is innovations: worthwhile investing in a groundsheet protector or ‘Footprint’. A footprint will significantly prolong the life of your tent. 1. Windows Previously the domain of the family frame tent, windows are now being regularly seen in the flysheets of modern cutting-edge Other considerations mountain tents. Not only does the window give you a dramatic mountain landscape, it enables you to keep an eye on the weather before PURCHASE outside the tent without letting it inside. Look out for windows that are manufactured from clear UVX film. Extensive field tests It is always better to get a slightly larger tent than you need. of this material at altitudes of up to 27,000ft have proved the Imagine yourself ‘tent bound’ for extended periods in bad weather. UVX film windows to be nearly tear proof and non-clouding or Unless weight is abso- yellowing (unlike the PVC or plastic on the family frame tents). lutely critical, try to get a Also they won’t freeze and remain flexible to -55°C. Pretty tent that will give you impressive stuff. plenty of room. A large porch is an efficient way 2. Internal Guy System to increase storage space Guy lines normally connect only to the flysheet, when the guy without much weight. It line is pegged out and tensioned it assists the fly in remaining will also provide a reason- taught in windy conditions. This design has been taken one step able shelter from the ele- further with some high mountain ‘pole and clip’ tents. The guy ments, keeping to a attachment point on the outside of the fly extends to the inside minumum the amount of of the fly. The guy out point is then connected directly to the gear you have to store in- tent pole via a clip. When the guy is tightened it not only keeps side the tent with you. the fly taught but also structurally supports the pole it is clipped to, greatly increasing the structural integrity of the tent. Buy your tent from a specialist store who em- ploy staff that test the Tent GROUNDSHEETS products on a regular ba- For quite some time mountain tents have had sewn in ground- sis. Invaluable advice from sheets, generally these are a polyurethane coated nylon. Coat- a knowledgeable staff ings can vary in thickness and quality. Thicker coatings are not member could save you a necessarily more durable or more waterproof. A high quality lot of wasted time, energy coating is applied in more than one pass (usually up to three and money in the long run. passes) the more passes the coating is applied over the more Shivling and Tapovan base camp. Credit: Macnae BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 35

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WhichWhich WayWay TESTRATEGY Summary of the current objectives in the FORWARDFORWARD Development Plan. 1. Facilities – Natural Campaign for access, negotiate improvements and promote cliff and mountain conservation. Support the volunteer access forfor thethe BMC?BMC? network and database of access information, encourage practical traffic management schemes and promote good practice information and publications. The Access Fund is used for practical by Roger Payne projects including erosion control schemes and the BMC also manages four sites including Harrison’s Rocks and Tremadog. he BMC Development Plan is the foundation on which 2. Facilities – Artificial all specialist work is built (see flow chart). It is essen Promote and advise on climbing wall management and maintain Ttial that the Development Plan is firmly based on agreed a strategic plan for wall development with support for a network needs. The Development Plan is also the basis for seeking sup- of volunteer representatives and a database of wall information. port from the various sports councils and other partners in the The BMC is developing a wall registration scheme and promotes outdoor world who are in a position to support and help fund disabled access. In addition the BMC is developing a strategy for specific BMC programmes. Each year the plan is reviewed and hut improvement and supporting the development of a national an annual operational plan and budget is approved by the Man- exhibition of mountaineering. agement Committee. Also, each year all specialist committees 3. Excellence – Competitions have their membership, terms of reference, and annual work pro- Send senior and junior British teams to UIAA European and gramme reviewed and approved by the Management Commit- World events. Provide training and support for the teams, co- tee. Area Committees get quarterly reports from their locally ordinate senior and junior British championships and host UIAA elected Management Committee representatives, and the AGM events in the UK. elected officers report to the whole membership at the AGM. In 4. Excellence – Expeditions addition to Area meeting discussions BMC members are kept Provide support to approved expeditions in particular those informed directly via Summit and the Annual Report. attempting World Class objectives. Promote good environmental conduct and ethical responsibility. BMC Members 5. Excellence – Individual Consultation and representation via Hold international seminars and meets and high performance Area meetings, AGM, Summit and exchanges. Develop high performance training and coaching. direct communication 6. Safety – Training Run good practice events including lecture series and seminars. Provide subsidised good practice training in winter and alpine Area elected Policies and 4 year AGM elected climbing. Publish good practice guidance and publications. Pro- representatives Development Plan officers vide support for group leader and instructor qualifications. with targets 7. Safety - Technical Investigate equipment failures and contribute to European and UIAA standards. Co-ordinate and promote research, publish Management and Executive Committees technical information and give advice on safety equipment. -Ongoing review of programmes 8. Youth -Annual approval of operational plan Run good practice events and improve communication with young participants. Support and train a network of area volun- Specialist volunteers and staff teers. Provide guidance for running youth events and child pro- -Implementation of Development Plan aims and objectives tection. 9. Equity Promote equal opportunities and inclusion. Raise awareness about under representation and needs of particular groups. De- The BMC has just passed the mid-point of its current 4 year velop model standards and action plans. development plan for 1998 to 2001. Please refer to the 1998 and 10. International 1999 Annual Reports for progress against objectives and targets. Support UK experts taking part in UIAA Commissions. Sup- All sections of the BMC’s membership are invited to suggest port UK post-holders including the UIAA President. Host UIAA how the current objectives and targets (see annual report and meetings in the UK. summary below) should evolve for the period 2002 to 2005 with 11. Guidebooks any new objectives or additional targets. To help this process an Continue publishing Peak District guidebooks and provide sup- outline response document is available on the BMC web site (or port to other guidebook producers on request. available on request from the office) and will be sent to all affili- 12. Regional ated clubs and BMC Areas for initial discussion prior to the Provide support for BMC programmes at a regional level. AGM. So that a draft development plan can be drawn up with 13. Membership time for further consideration in June initial contributions are Increase membership by 4,000 per annum and increase direct requested by 30 April. The whole issue will be discussed at circulation of Summit and the Annual Report. Extend the Infor- the National Open Forum which will take place after the mation Service and other services for BMC members. Recruit and AGM on 8 April. support volunteers with materials and training opportunities. 14. Headquarters Maintain building and plan for developments. Maintain and replace office equipment and plan for developments.

BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 37

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 37 2/10/00, 10:39 AM ARENA BMC Strategic review Scottish hut news It is now time for the BMC to look to the future. During the SYHA Hostel at Inverey AGM weekend the National Open Forum will debate the BMC's Inverey Hostel is available for rental during the period 30 March strategic development. On page 37 Roger Payne outlines the 2000 until the end of May. The charge for exclusive use of the hostel BMC's descision making structure and details the current de- is just £40 per night; with accommodation for up to seventeen people velopment plan. So what do you want from the BMC? Come this makes it excellent value for money for clubs, groups of friends or to the National Open Forum and make your view heard. even families. For further information on booking contact the Brae- mar hostel manager, tel/fax 01339-741659 or [email protected]. Hut Seminar The second hut seminar will be held at Plas y Brenin on 14 October Climbers’ Club Hut at Roy Bridge - 2000. The agenda items are: Hut Bookings, Hut Management, Hut third time lucky ? List and Community Issues. This is an essential event for anyone The Climbers’ Club has been unlucky in trying to establish a hut involved in managing a club hut. Application forms are available in the Roy Bridge area. Earlier this year, a planning application for from the BMC Office and a fuller program will appear in Summit 18. a new hut at Inverroy was rejected. The club then obtained planning permission to convert a house in Roy Bridge, but the vendor CRMC looks for new members had to withdraw at the last minute. Recently the CC made a Change The Christian Rock and Mountain Club is a national mountain- of Use application for a mid-70’s built, 1360 sq ft, 4 bed, 2 bath eering club with members throughout the UK. The club is seek- bungalow called “Riasg”. It is on a flat 3/4 acre site in Roy Bridge ing to expand membership and welcomes walkers and climbers of within 50 yds of the Roy Bridge Hotel. all abilities. For details contact Gill Brooke-Taylor: 18 Acacia Crescent, Trowbridge, Wiltshire BA14 9SZ. Tel: 01225 769210 New hut for the GUM Club or email [email protected]. Glasgow University Mountaineering Club has funding of £50k to build a mountaineering hut. It will be called the Meers-Gray Lakes clean up hut in memory of two climbers. The custodian designate is Ms A 'crag clean up' is to be organised by the Lakes Area Commit- Caroline Walker whose contact details can be found on the GUMC tee over the weekend of 6/7 May. If you are interested in help- web site http://www.gla.ac.uk/clubs/mountaineering/ ing out please contact Rick Graham on 015394 41127. committee.html. A suitable site is currently being sought.

Lakes: Fixed anchors New hut at Elphin The use of chains or bolts for belaying and as lower-offs will be The SMC’s Naismith hut at Elphin, Sutherland, is now ‘open discussed at the next Lakes Area Meeting to be held on 24 March for business’. This development is particularly welcome in an at the Golden Rule, Ambleside at 8pm. If you have a view be there. area where there is a dearth of mountainering accommodation.

2000 LAKE NORTH LONDON & SE MIDLANDS NORTH PEAK SW & WALES YORKSHIRE DISTRICT WEST EAST DISTRICT SOUTHERN & HUMBER Fri 24th Mon 27th Thurs 23th Mon 20th 20.00 Thurs 23rd Sat 18th Sat 25th Mon 20th Mar 20.00 Golden 19.30pm BMC 19.30pm 7 Stars 19.15 The 18.00pm 7pm. 19.00 Leeds Rule, Office Walsall Cricket Shincliffe, nr Anchor Tideswell The Mermaid Treharris Wall, Ambleside Manchester Club Durham Crossroads Easton,Portland Wall? Gelderd Ro

Tues 4th Apr 19.30pm Francis House Francis St,London Fri 9th Mon 12th Tues 20th Tues 8th Mon 19th 20.00 7 Thurs 8th Sat 10th Sat 10th Mon 12th Jun 20.00 19.30pm BMC 19.30pm 19.30pm Stars Shincliffe, 19.15 The AGM 18.30pm 7pm. Plas y 19.00 Leeds Venue to be Office Francis House Elmbank nr Durham Anchor Tideswell Meet.19.00pm Brenin Wall, arranged Manchester Francis St,London Centre Crossroads Bosigran Gelderd Road Coventry Counthouse Cornwall Thurs 28th Mon 25th 20.00 7 Thurs 28th Sat 23rd Sat 23rd 7pm Mon 25th Sep 19.30pm Stars Shincliffe, 19.15 The 18.00pm Pembroke? 19.00 Leeds Ackers Centre nr Durham Anchor Tideswell Bosigran Wall, Gelderd Birmingham Crossroads Counthouse Road Cornwall Fri 6th Wed 25th Tues 3rd Oct 20.00 19.30pm BMC 19.30pm Venue to be Office Francis House arranged Manchester Francis St,London Fri 24th AGM Mon 27th Thurs 23rd Mon 13th 20.00 7 Thurs 23rd Sat 25th Sat 25th 6pm Mon 20th Nov 20.00 Golden 19.30pm BMC 19.30pm Stars, nr 19.15 The 18.00pm Venue – (and AGM) 19.00 Leeds Rule, Office The Rockface Durham Anchor Tideswell to be Advised Plas y Wall, Gelderd Ambleside Manchester Birmingham (and AGM) Crossroads Brenin Rd. (and AGM) (AGM) (and AGM) Tues 5th AGM Dec 19.30pm Francis House Francis St,London + Rock Face, Birmingham does not have Disabled Access

38 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17

23445_SUMMIT17.p65 38 2/10/00, 10:41 AM BRIEFING

Annual Gathering All BMC members are extended a warm welcome to the BMC annual gathering. This year we are heading to Ilkley in Yorkshire, the ideal base for a weekend of climbing and hill walking. 7 - 8 April 2000 Friday Saturday Craiglands Hotel Ilkley Grammar School Buffet 9.00pm Workshops: Access Legislation, Slides: 9.30pm developing clubs, running local Ian Parnell: Slovenian events 10am Secrets The AGM 4pm Dave Musgrove: National Open Forum: Which way Climbing in Yorkshire forward for the BMC? 4.30pm

Tickets prices: Craiglands Hotel Dinner £21.50, Annual Dinner 7.30pm Chief Guest Buffet £9, Slides Rt. Hon Chris Smith MP, FREE. To book or for Secretary of State for Culture, further information Media and Sport. contact Lucy Mansie Three course meal, band, bop at the BMC office. and all the trimmings. For accommodation at Craiglands Hotel call 01943 430001

2000 Inter Wall Team Comp Following the successful demonstration event at Climb '99 (the 1999 Entre-Prises UIAA World Championships) the BMC plans to work with some walls to produce a series of regional events run by walls for the best male and female climber from their wall club in each of the BRYCS age groups. These talented young- sters will form a ‘wall team’. Other youth events are planned regionally with co-operation between area committees, clubs, walls and local youth and community service.

'Touching the Void' in Manchester The Karabiner Mountaineering Club will be holding the Black Memorial Lecture on Thursday 23rd March 2000. The speaker will be Joe Simpson who will present his gripping tale of adventure on the very edge of survival based on his best selling book “Touching the Void”.

The Lecture will take place at Lecture Theatre 1, Crawford House, University of Manchester, Oxford Road, Manchester. Tickets are priced at £6.50 (£5.00 for students and unwaged) and BULGING WITH can be obtained from Cotswold Outdoor, 6a Oxford Road, Man- chester (0161 236 4123) or Outside, High Street, Llanberis or CLIMBING GEAR direct from the KMC by ringing 01663 734182. Many shops claim to be climbing specialists. At Rock On we sell Climbing/Mountaineering equipment Wales Support & Books and absolutely nothing else. NOTHING ELSE. The BMC Committee for Wales is in urgent need of a new Now that’s specialist. Secretary, Wall rep and Access rep. This is a key time for Rock On the Welsh team as the Sports Council for Wales considers Mile End Climbing Wall, Haverfield Rd., London E3 5BE. support for Welsh climber and walkers. Anyone who would Tel: 0181 981 5066 like to support the work of the committee please contact AND at YHA Adventure Shops Birmingham Climbing Cntr’ Wayne Gladwin c/o the BMC office. 14 Southampton Street A.B. Row Covent Garden, Birmingham B4 7QT London WC2E 7HY Tel: 0121 359 8709 Tel: 0171 212 9978 BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 39

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LAST THOUGHTS CoffeCoffee?e? Out of control and out of caffeine Behind the scenes at Climb ‘99 by Alex Messenger

“Hi, Alan Hinkes here, I’ve just crash landed in Copenhagen, might be late”. As excuses go, it sounded good, at least he hadn’t choked on a tea cake this time. Maybe he was just lurking in a Newcastle pub, no matter - the problem was the same - 500 people were expecting him to talk in just a few hours. Quick, The main wall only hours before start time!. Featuring Jerry Gore on a portaledge. think quick. Mountaineer needed, must have own slides and GSOH. Apply now. Ah sorted. Now wouldn’t bother the ever entrepreneurial Seb Grieve though, where did we put Bonington, the Lord Mayor’s here early. I mind you he’d just upended a cardboard box and was flogging really must have a coffee soon, or there is a serious possibility of signed copies of his own particular brand of video nasty to brain death. What do you mean there’s no electrical power below casual punters. 10 minutes later, and cunning diplomacy em- the main wall, I’ll have a look around the back. A bedraggled ployed the lights stay on. Just. Don’t know how we did it, route-setter emerges from the gloom clutching a roll up, claiming couldn’t even understand the Birmingham accent. A champagne the wall must be changed - it’s one big rest. Huh? What? I don’t bottle appears, with a Bonington attached. Absolutely splendid need to know that now. chaps - good job! He is swiftly spirited away by the serious looking VIP squad to check out the man in the big gold chain. “Hi, Julie Ann Clyma here, due to replace Hinkes in Alex Huber rolls up, very barrel chested. Luckily he’s quite 1/2 hr, the train’s delayed, I won’t make it in time.” happy. Unluckily he wants to use his own brand of audio equip- OK, no problem, relax. This place is crawling with climbers. It’s ment, but hasn’t got the connectors. On in half an hour though - easy, just find someone in a fleece who’s been somewhere and definitely low priority. done something recently. Andy MacNae? No - they’d never be- The besuited penguin, formerly known as Ian Parnell, pops in to lieve it. Ah, Twid, nice to meet you. Got any slides? Great. What view. Nice suit, nice deranged eyes and fixed grin too. The rodeo ride do mean they’re Louise’s. Nevermind, get up there. I still can’t of stage managing this beast beginning to show. Yep, yep, got it. believe we’ve lost Bonington. We could go to the Tower for that. OK. Go - get back to that comp. The radios have stopped working, . communication is now by runners. Always worrying, especially “Guten Tag, zis is Alex Huber, I am zer cross zat you when they get constantly diverted by the Snow & Rock bargain have moved my lecture show because Mr Heenkes bucket. Chris Smith, Secretary of State, is coming in 10 minutes. iz late, I vill come over now and sort you out.” Need to co-ordinate the climbing, and the seething mass of children Hmm, he’s strong. But short. We’ll be OK. WILL SOMEONE that are the "Have a Go walls" for his visit. Oh. Oh. Coffee? PLEASE FIND SIR CHRIS BONINGTON NOW. I don’t know, wave a bottle of champagne or something, he’ll come running. “Hi this the event hotel here, you’re over booked, Coffee, need coffee. Still no power? Maybe if you’d actually and we’re evicting some people from rooms, Who built the wall a bit earlier, yes, yes, Royal show, Tankers in the ? well a Mr Bonington, Mr Huber, Mr Payne, and arena and scary soldiers I know. No, I said tankers. Mr George Band ….” Welcome to Crisis Management 101. Otherwise known as the No. Please don’t, NO DON’T. We’ll ring you back, hold on. Entre-Prises UIAA World Championships, at the NIA in Birming- Chris Smith is here, he loves it - brilliant. Even better, the speed ham. But really a cunning team building exercise devised by Mr climbing equipment has arrived from Russia with at least 10 Roger Payne. His parting words before he headed for the high minutes to spare. Probably won't work of course. Is the tide ground of the VIP box; “What could go wrong, will go wrong!” turning? The first coffee of the day rolls up. I make a grab for it were still haunting the event office. At first it had been fun, amus- but the phone intervenes... ing, challenging even, to try and solve these minor difficulties asso- ciated with running a major event. But as time ground on, and “Hi stage door here, we have some men at stage faces, starved of sunlight for days, became more worried, a few door looking for a female competitor. No they things going right wouldn’t be too much to ask - would it? don’t want tickets, they just want to return her Apparently so, the great gods in the sky (or was it Mr Payne, clothes from last night. Er, no they don’t know sinisterly piloting this gruelling training regime from afar) had her name. “ obviously decided that there was to be no rest for the wicked. No coffee either apparently. A particularly cruel and evil twist to the entire plot. OK be there in a second. Hold on....

“Hi, NIA lighting here, you haven’t paid your bill, we’re cutting off power to all the retail stands”. Many thanks to all the volunteers at Climb 99, What? The catering bill alone would pay for the lighting for a without whom the event would just not have week. Go Go. And before the several thousand frantic shoppers been possible. have their pre-Christmas frenzy brought to a shocking halt. It

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