New Grants for Young Climbers

23445_COVER_DESIGN_NEW 15/2/00 10:44 am Page 1 ISSUE 17 SPRING ‘2000 £2.50 WorldWorld ClassClass Exclusive Climb ‘99 photo diary HomeHome AloneAlone Mountain tents buyers guide AA RightRight ToTo RoamRoam And a right to climb TechnicalTechnical ConferenceConference Ropes, boots, crampons KIDSKIDS ANDAND CLUBSCLUBS ACONCAGUAACONCAGUA NESTINGNESTING UPDATEUPDATE ACCESS NEWS EVENTS SPA COFFEE ? FOREWORD.. WHERE NEXT? ow did 1999 end for you? Perhaps in December you were one of over 6,000 at the NIA in Birmingham Htaking part in the Climb ’99 festivities? Maybe for the New Year holiday you were one of that countless number out in the hills climbing or walking (I was lucky to be off-piste, on cascade and up Alp). For all climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers the last days of 1999 included an extremely valuable state- ment by Environment Minister Michael Meacher (it's official: climbing will be included in the new right of access on foot to open countryside). 'access campaign and Climb ’99' The BMC’s access campaign and Climb ’99 highlight the con- trasting ways the BMC works during the year. The access campaign is based on a membership-wide policy consultation and AGM vote (the Access Charter, April 1997). This policy is then pursued with expert volunteer advisers assisting a small team of committee specialists and staff putting forward the BMC case as effectively as possible. To be successful this work often has to be lobbying behind the scenes and therefore not visible to members until a particular milestone is reached (see Summit News and letters). By comparison events like Climb ’99 take place in front of press and television cameras, and thousands of specta- tors. Large scale participation and spectator events need com- mercial freedom to negotiate sponsorship and contracts and flex- ibility to take advantage of opportunities as they arise. The success of Climb ‘99 still depended on a very large group of hard-working volunteers (from stewards and judges to specialist instructors and well-known lecturers). But by empowering a small accountable group a vision became reality for an inclusive and diverse event (from World Class competitions and lectures to specialist training and events for young enthusiasts of all abilities). Some of the Climb ’99 development initiatives were so successful that Sport England has already agreed additional funding in 2000 for a series of specialist workshops and a conference focussed on equal opportunity and child protection issues. Where next for the BMC? Major consultation at the National Also, discussions are now underway with the Sports Council for Open Forum. Credit: Payne Wales who are looking carefully at BMC programmes in Wales. 'the key to success' has made a major input to promote the interests and freedoms of In my view the key to success for bodies like the BMC is to get our sport. If you feel you can give direct support (even in a a balanced approach that combines the strongest and most valu- modest way) to the BMC’s specialist programmes or Area struc- able elements of volunteer commitment (i.e. support and work ture please let us know. from members) with public sector standards and investment (i.e. 'an important landmark' from sports councils) and private sector efficiency (i.e. a value 1999 ended for the BMC with just over 50,000 members for for money and service approach). Of equal importance for over- the first time. This is an important landmark at the end of a year all success is that strategic plans should be firmly based on the in which the BMC supported a wide range of work programmes, agreed needs of members which rely on good communication and projects and events, the combined costs of which totalled around an open democratic structure. In my experience policy posi- £600,000 (for details of all the programmes refer to the 1999 tions like the access campaign need plenty of time for democratic Annual Report). Hence, because of the support of the different consultation, whereas the implementation of specialist pro- sports councils, partners in the outdoor world, success of BMC grammes like Climb ’99 need empowered accountable individu- trading activities and membership in 1999, the BMC was able to als who are able to act decisively. Problems can occur when there invest £600,000 (or around £12 per member) in the various good is confusion about which approach is appropriate (I hope every- causes of the mountaineering world. All this activity to promote one would agree that an AGM vote on the wording of a TV the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers would contract would be inappropriate). The BMC has just passed the not be possible without the commitment and hard work of many mid-point of its current four year strategic plan. For the next volunteers combined in a sensible management structure with plan (2002 to 2005) consultation is now underway to help en- BMC staff all working within an agreed strategic framework to sure the next plan is also firmly based on agreed needs (see page high standards of accountability. I hope BMC will have your 37). Your views are needed to shape this planning process, so support as we review the structure and priorities for 2002 and please let us know what you want from the BMC. beyond. Please feel encouraged to contribute to the current con- 'a very big thank you' sultation exercise. Perhaps you will also join one of the work- Three individuals who have made a major contribution to BMC shops or discussions at the Annual Gathering week-end and AGM work are Tony Bird as Chair of the Climbing Wall Committee, in Ilkley on 8 April? Graham Hoey as Chair of the Guidebook Committee and Geoff Milburn as Guidebook Series Editor. All three have recently stood down from these important positions and deserve a very big thank you for all their work. In their respective fields each General Secretary BMC SUMMIT - ISSUE 17 1 23445_SUMMIT17.p65 1 2/10/00, 8:57 AM 17 CONTENTS Welcome to issue 17 of 4 News A right to climb!, Troll BICC, Grants for young Summit is the membership magazine climbers, Annual of the British Mountaineering Council. Gathering. The BMC promotes the interests of climbers, hill walkers and mountaineers 4 4A A right right to to climb! climb and the freedom to enjoy their activities. 8 Access News The primary work of the BMC is to: Clubs and companies support Access Fund, Area Negotiate access improve- updates, the latest on 24 Forum ments and promote cliff and legislation. Striking the balance II mountain conservation. climbers, birds and Promote and advise on good landowners. practice, facilities, training and equipment. 38 Arena Support events and specialist All the Area news programmes including youth and meetings. and excellence. Provide services and informa- 39 Briefing tion for members. All the upcoming BMC, 177 - 179 Burton Road, events and publications. Manchester M20 2BB Tel: 0161 445 4747 3424 Striking thethe BalanceBalance Fax: 0161 445 4500 REGULARS e-mail: [email protected] www.thebmc.co.uk 10 World Class A celebration of Climb '99. EDITORIAL Contributions for Summit should be 16 Technical sent to Andy MacNae at the above address or [email protected]. Conference Every care is taken of materials sent All the beta from the 1999 for publication, however these are sub- conference. 10 Climb '99 mitted at the senders’ risk. 17 Ropes don't PUBLISHING break 26 Nesting Gill Wootton Marcus Bailie on ropes, The 2000 nesting agree- Display Advertising logging and retiring. ments. Marilyn Adelmann & Fraser Ingham 18 If the boot fits? 28 Feedback Classified Brian Hall getting boots Forum 16 got quite a Paula Taylor & Sarah and crampons together. response. Lambert Tel: 01536 382500 22 Kids welcome? 31 Stone sentinel Fax: 01536 382501 Climbing clubs & U18's. Duncan Bell on Aconcagua and the trials and tribula- PUBLISHED & PRINTED BY tions of a first expedition. GreenShires Publishing Telford Way, Kettering 33 Home Alone Northants, NN16 8UN FEATURES Rob Wylie with a buyers' Tel: 01536 382500 guide to mountain tents. Neither the BMC nor GreenShires Publishing accept responsibility for information supplied in adverts. Readers are advised to take reasonable care when 48 Last thoughts responding to adverts. Alex Messenger out of RISK & RESPONSIBILITY control and behind the Readers of Summit are reminded that scenes at Climb '99. climbing, hill walking and mountaineering are activities with a danger of personal injury or death. Participants in these Cover: Frances Taylor, cruising on Curtain activities should be aware of and accept Wall, Arapiles, Australia. these risks and be responsible for their own Credit: Alex Messenger. actions and involvement. The BMC 33 Buyers' guide to publishes a wide range of safety and good mountain tents33 Home Alone practice advice and provides training opportunities for members. 23445_SUMMIT17.p65 2 2/15/00, 1:57 PM LETTERS case, see news page 4-Ed). The Area Committee meetings keep everyone new legislation will supersede the informed, the web site posts regular up- 1949, National Park and Coun- dates plus draft letters to MP’s and the tryside Access Act which in- telephone is always available for anyone cluded cliffs in its definition of who seeks additional detail. Thanks to the open land. If cliffs aren’t in- efforts of the many BMC members who cluded in the scope of the new have written to their MPs we now have act we will gain almost nothing good parliamentary contacts who are sup- from this much heralded legis- portive of the BMC’s objectives. Mem- lation. This fundamental is- bers are called on to act only when there is sue has massive implications something important for them to do – for the climbing community which there is now (see page 4).

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