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Thematischeressource THEMATISCHERessource Titel: Quellen zu deutschen Himalayaexpeditionen (1929-1989) im Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins (DAV), München Title: Sources on German Himalayan Expeditions (1929 - 1989) in the Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins (DAV), Munich Jahr/Year: 2021 Erstellt von/ Nokmedemla Lemtur, CeMIS, Georg-August-Universität Göttingen Compiled by: Beschreibung: Dies ist eine Auflistung der deutschen Bergsteigeexpeditionen im Himalaya zwischen 1929 und 1989. Die indisch-deut- schen Verflechtungen in der Himalayaregion beginnen mit den Reisen der Brüder Adolph, Hermann und Robert Schlagintweit in der Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts (1854-1857). Ernstzunehmende Versuche, die dortigen Berggipfel zu be- steigen, begannen jedoch erst im frühen 20. Jahrhundert. Die deutschen Expeditionen gehörten zu den wenigen auslän- dischen Unterfangen, welche die Erlaubnis zur Besteigung erhielten. Der erste Versuch war eine gescheiterte Tour auf den Gipfel des Kangchenjunga (8586m) 1929. Daraufhin folgten zahlreiche deutsche Expeditionen in den Himalaya, die größtenteils vom Deutschen Alpenverein (DAV) unterstützt wurden. Der DAV wurde 1869 gegründet und existiert bis heute; das Archiv dieser Expeditionen befindet sich im Besitz des Vereins. Der Löwenanteil des für die Untersuchung dieser Expeditionen relevanten Materials befindet sich in den Archivbeständen: Archivalien von Expeditionsgesellschaf- ten (EXP), Personennachlässe (NAS), Fotografien und Postkarten (FOP) and Dokumentationen (DOK). Hauptsächlich findet sich darin Schriftgut in Form von Korrespondenzen, Tagebüchern, Dokumenten zur Planung der Unterfangen so- wie Berichten über sie. Darüber hinaus können auch andere Quellen wie Fotografien, Tonaufnahmen und Werbemateri- alien eingesehen werden. Expeditionen die in Zusammenarbeit mit Bergsteigern aus weiteren Ländern, vor allem Österreich, durchgeführt wurden, werden in der vorliegenden Liste ebenfalls erwähnt, da auch sie vom DAV oder der Deutschen Himalaya Stiftung (DHS) unterstützt wurden. Das 1952 von Karl Maria Herrligkoffer gegründete Deutsche Institut für Auslandsforschung (DIAF) war die dritte wichtige Institution, die in die deutschen Bergsteigeexpeditionen involviert war. Expeditionsteilnehmer publizierten zudem eigene Berichte sowohl als Artikel in Journalen als auch in Form von Monographien. Diese sind in der beigefügten Bibliographie chronologisch aufgelistet. Diese Auflistung umspannt einen Zeitraum von den 1930ern bis ins Jahr 2016. Die Liste selbst bietet darüber hinaus eine Zusammenstellung von Artikeln über die Expeditionen, die sich in den Publikationen des DAV [DAV Jahrbuch], des britischen und des US-amerikanischen Alpine Clubs [Alpine Journal & American Alpine Journal], sowie des indischen Himalayan Clubs [Himalayan Journal] finden. Dabei ist zu betonen, dass die in dieser Thematischen Ressource angegebene Literatur keinesfalls vollständig ist und sich auf deutsch- und englischsprachige Publikationen beschränkt. Ein Großteil der erwähnten Journale ist gebührenfrei zugänglich. Description: This list provides users details of mountaineering expeditions from Germany to the Himalayas between 1929 and 1989. The history of Indo-German entanglements in the Himalayas goes back to the travels of the Schlagintweit brothers Adolph, Hermann, and Robert in the mid-nineteenth century (1854-1857). However, any serious effort at climbing the peaks only began in the early twentieth century and in this context, the German mountaineering expeditions belonged to the very few foreign expeditions permitted to climb in the Himalayas, beginning with the attempt to climb Kangchenjunga (8586m) in 1929. Several expeditions to the Himalayas were conducted since then mostly with the support of the Deutsche Alpenverein (DAV). The DAV, which was established in 1869 and exists until today, houses the archive of these expeditions. The bulk of sources in the Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins on the Himalayan expeditions are in the fol- lowing holdings: Archivalien von Expeditionsgesellschaften (EXP), Personennachlässe (NAS), Fotografien und Post- karten (FOP) and Dokumentationen (DOK). A majority of the written sources from the expeditions are correspondences, diaries, expedition planning and reports. Other sources like photographs, audio recordings and publicity materials are also available in the holdings. Expeditions carried out in partnership with other countries such as Austria, are also mentioned in this list given that they were carried out with the support of the DAV or the Deutsche Himalaya Stiftung (DHS). The other institution involved in German mountaineering expeditions was the Deutsches Institut für Auslandsforschung (DIAF), established by Karl Maria Herrligkoffer in 1952 to explore and climb mountains. The members of these mountaineering expeditions also published their reports either in the form of articles in journals or as monographs. These are systematically listed in the bibliography and organized according to each decade, beginning in the 1930s and ending in 2016. The list also offers an overview of articles on the various expeditions in the journals of the DAV [DAV Jahrbuch], the British and American Alpine Clubs [Alpine Journal & American Alpine Journal], as well as the Indian Himalayan Club [Himalayan Journal]. The literature compiled in this list is not exhaustive and limited to German and English language publications. Most journals mentioned in the list are available in the public domain. MIDA Langfristvorhaben, gefördert durch die Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft. MIDA Long Term Project, funded by the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft (DFG, German Research Foundation). Herausgeber/Editors: Anandita Bajpai, Heike Liebau Layout: Monja Hofmann, Nico Putz Anbieter/Host: ZMO, Kirchweg 33, 14129 Berlin Kontakt/Contact: [email protected] ISSN 2701-2875 © MIDA 2021 Articles/Artikel Year/Jahr Expedition Name [Unterstützt durch / Supported by] Leader/Leiter Members/Mitglieder (AJ – Alpine Journal (UK), AAJ – American Alpine Jounal (USA), HJ – Himalayan Journal (India), MM – Mountain Magazine (UK), DAV – Deutsche Alpenverein Jahrbuch (Germany). Eugen (Alisi) Allwein, Peter Aufschnaiter, Ernst Beigel, Julius · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Brenner, Wilhelm Fendt, Joachim Leupold, Karl Julius · AJ 42:73-77 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "Kangchenjunga, 1929: The Bavarian Attempt." Alexander (Lex) Thoenes, Harry Walter Tobin, Karl von Kraus 1 1929 Deutsche Kangchendzönga-Expedition Paul Bauer · AJ 42:185-202 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "The Fight for Kangchenjunga, 1929." · DAV 61: 1-57 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "Die Deutsche Himalajafahrt 1929." Chettan Sherpa, Ila Kitar Sherpa, Lewa Sherpa, Pasang · HJ 2:13-20 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, 1929." Sherpa Hettie Dyhrenfurth, John S. Hannah, Helmuth Richter, Hermann W. Hoerlin (S), Marcel Louis Kurz, Erwin · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Schneider, Francis Sydney Smythe, H.W. Tobin, George W. · AJ 42:202-226 (1930), Smythe, F. S., "The Assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930." 2 1930 Internationale Himalaya-Expedition Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth Wood-Johnson, Ulrich Wieland, Charles-Georges Duvanel · HJ 3:77-91 (1931), Dyhrenfurth, G. O., "The International Himalayan Expedition 1930." · DAV 62:47-87 (1931), Dyhrenfurth, Hoerlin, Rächl, "Unsere Himalaja-Expedition 1920.” Chettan Sherpa, Lewa Sherpa, Tsering Norbu Sherpa, Nima Sherpa Eugen Allwein, Peter Aufschnaiter, Julius Brenner, Wilhelm · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Fendt, Hans Hartmann, Joachim Leupold, Hans (Pepperl) · AJ 44:13-24 (1932), Bauer, Paul, "Kangchenjunga, 1931: The Second Bavarian Attempt." Pircher, Hermann (Xaverl) Schaller, Karl Wien 3 1931 Deutsche Kangchendzönga-Expedition Paul Bauer · DAV 63:62-72 (1932), Hartmann, Hans, "Kangchendzönga 1931." · HJ 4:116-122 (1932), Bauer, Paul, "The Fight for Kangchenjunga, 1931." Babu Lall, Lobsang, Ila Kitar Sherpa, Kami Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa Peter Aschenbrenner, Fritz Bechtold, Hugo Hamberger, · DAV 64:59-74 (1933), Merkl, Willy, "Die Deutsch-Amerikanische Himalaja-Expedition 1932." 4 1932 Deutsch-Amerikanische Himalaja-Expedition (DAHE) Willy Merkl Rand Herron, Elizabeth Knowlton, Herbert Kunigk, Felix · HJ 5:65-74 (1933), Merkl, Willy, "The Attack on Nanga Parbat." Simon, Fritz Wießner Peter Aschenbrenner, Fritz Bechtold, Willi Bernard, Alfred Drexel, Richard Finsterwalder, Hans Hieronimus, Peter · DAV 66:1-17 (1935), Bechtold, Fritz, "Nanga Parbat 1934, Bericht über die Deutsche Misch, Peter Müllritter, Walter Raechl, Erwin Schneider, Himalajakundfahrt." & Finsterwalder, R., "Die Forschungsarbeit am Nanga Parbat." Willi Welzenbach, Uli Wieland · HJ 7:27-52 (1935), Bechtold, Fritz, "The German Himalayan Expedition to Nanga Parbat, 1934", 5 1934 Deutsche Himalaja-Expedition zum Nanga Parbat Willy Merkl Sangster, "Diary Jottings: Nanga Parbat, 1934", Finsterwalder., "The Scientific Work of the Lewa (Sirdar), Ang Tensing, Ang Tsering, Dakshi, German Himalayan Expedtion to Nanga Parbat, 1934." DawaThondup, Da Thundu, Gaylay, Kitar, Lobsang, Nima · AJ 47:92-102 (1935), Schneider, "The German Assault on Nanga Parbat." Dorje, Nima Tashi, Pasang Kikuli, Nima Norbu, Pint-so Nurbo, SonamTobgay, Wangdi Nurbu · AJ 49:41-49 (1937), Bauer, Paul, "The German Sikkim Expedition, 1936." Kundfahrt zum Siniolchu 6 1936 Paul Bauer Adolf Göttner, Günther Hepp, Karl Wien · HJ 9:62-65 (1937), Wien, Karl, "The Ascent of
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