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Alpine Journal
• THE ALPINE JOURNAL Vol. 49, Nos. 254 and 255 THE • A RECORD OF MOUNTAIN ADVENTURE AND SCIENTIFIC OBSERVATION BY MEMBERS OF THE ALPINE CLUB VOLUME 49 (NOS. 254 AND 255) 1 937 EDITED BY E. L. STRUTT PUBLISHED BY THE ALPINE CLUB 74 SOUTH AUDLEY STREET, LONDON, W. 1 1937 CONTENTS PAGE ALPINE AcciDENTs IN I937 . • • • • • • 282 ALPINE CLUB 'At Home' • • • • • • • • . ISI Dinner . • • • • • • • • . ISI Gifts to . • • • • • • • • . 271 Library . • • • • • • • • 14I, 302 Members Deaths • • 108, 12I, ISO, ISI, 1s2, 210, 248, 27I, 282, 308 n, 309, 3 IO Elected • • • • • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 310 Honorary Deaths . • 248, 2S9, 27I, 309, 3IO Elected . • • . 121, IS2, 27I New Premises . • • . I SO Obituaries (see also IN MEMORIAM) • • . I2I, 27I Officers Elected . • • . IS I Proceedings . • ISO, ISI, IS2, 309, 3IO ALPINE JOURNAL . • • . 27I ARTICLES, Original and Communicated, Notes, &c. Carstensz Massif, The, I936. By A. H. Colijn . I77 Chomolhari. By F. S. Chapman . 203 Climbing in the 'Sixties and the 'Seventies. By C. Wilson . I67 Complaints and Confessions of an Old Mountaineer. By P. Montandon . ss Dachstein Range, the, A Note on. By L. S. Amery . 242 D.u.CE.A.-V., The, in the Caucasus. By R. Schwarzgruber . 79 Elburz Range, N. Persia, The German Expedition in. By D. L. Rusk . 2 4S Elie de Montgolfier's Climb on Mt. Blanc. By Claire- Eliane Engel . 70 Gebel Gharib, The Wrong Way up. By G. W. Murray . 228 German Sikkim Expedition, I936, The. By Paul Bauer . 4I Gordamah Peak, N. Sikkim, Ascent of . I03 In the Footsteps of Dr. Paccard. By E. H. Stevens . I Julian Alps, the, A Note on. -
Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers
http://oac.cdlib.org/findaid/ark:/13030/kt609nb1bn No online items Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego Copyright 2005 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 [email protected] URL: http://libraries.ucsd.edu/collections/sca/index.html Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers MSS 0475 1 Descriptive Summary Languages: English Contributing Institution: Special Collections & Archives, UC San Diego 9500 Gilman Drive La Jolla 92093-0175 Title: Ulrich Cameron Luft Papers Identifier/Call Number: MSS 0475 Physical Description: 19.8 Linear feet(38 archives boxes, 11 card file boxes, 1 records carton, 4 oversize folders, and 1 art bin item) Date (inclusive): 1907-1991 Abstract: Papers of Ulrich Cameron Luft, research physiologist and physician. Luft was an authority in the fields of lung physiology and acclimatization to high altitude. Scope and Content of Collection Papers of Ulrich Cameron Luft, research physiologist and physician. Luft was an authority in the fields of lung physiology and acclimatization to high altitude. The collection contains correspondence, much of it related to Luft's research interests; published and unpublished writings by Luft and others from the 1930s through the 1980s; Luft's experimental and reference files containing notes, calculations, graphs and illustrations; photographs of Luft, his colleagues and family; photographs and slides of equipment and people in research settings; and, medical instruments. Arranged in nine series: 1) BIOGRAPHICAL MATERIAL, 2) CORRESPONDENCE, 3) WRITINGS BY ULRICH LUFT, 4) EXPERIMENTAL RESEARCH MATERIAL, 5) TEACHING MATERIAL, 6) HIGH ALTITUDE EXPEDITIONS, 7) WRITINGS OF OTHERS, 8) MEDICAL APPARATUS, and 9) ORIGINALS OF PRESERVATION PHOTOCOPIES. -
Read Eva Maurer's Article
The International Journal of the History of Sport ISSN: 0952-3367 (Print) 1743-9035 (Online) Journal homepage: https://www.tandfonline.com/loi/fhsp20 Gender in Détente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974 Eva Maurer To cite this article: Eva Maurer (2020): Gender in Détente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974, The International Journal of the History of Sport, DOI: 10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 To link to this article: https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 Published online: 03 Mar 2020. Submit your article to this journal Article views: 18 View related articles View Crossmark data Full Terms & Conditions of access and use can be found at https://www.tandfonline.com/action/journalInformation?journalCode=fhsp20 THE INTERNATIONAL JOURNAL OF THE HISTORY OF SPORT https://doi.org/10.1080/09523367.2020.1722644 Gender in Detente and Disaster: Women Climbers in the Soviet International Pamir Camp 1974 Eva Maurer Universit€atsbibliothek Bern, Universit€at Bern, Bern, Switzerland ABSTRACT KEYWORDS In the summer of 1974, the Soviet Union first opened its borders to Soviet Union; Pamir; a large number of climbers from the west. In a special camp in the Shataeva; Elvira; women’s mountaineering; Cold War Soviet Pamir mountains, climbers from ten different Western nations, were to climb and live side by side with each other and and detente with Soviet and Polish climbers nearby. Inscribed in the context of political detente, the Pamir camp allowed for more cultural contact across the Cold War divides. It can thus be seen as a microcosm of different climbing communities, sometimes overcoming, but some- times also divided by the lines of nationality, language, political sys- tem, and last but not least by gender. -
Himalayan Peaks of NEPAL (8,000 Meters and Above) Mt
Published by : Nepal Tourism Board Himalayan Peaks of Bhrikuti Mandap Kathmandu, Nepal P. O. Box: 11018 Fax: 977-1-4256910 Tel: 977-1-4256909, 4256229 NEPAL E-mail: [email protected] (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m) Nepal Tourism Board www.welcomenepal.com ccover.inddover.indd 1 55/7/2009/7/2009 11:51:51:51:51 AAMM ccover.inddover.indd 2 55/7/2009/7/2009 11:51:53:51:53 AAMM Himalayan Peaks of NEPAL (8,000 meters and above) Mt. Everest (8,848m) BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 1 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:481:47:48 AAMM The information contained in this book has been outsourced from an expert writer while every effort has been made to ensure accuracy and reliability. However, in case of lapses and discrepancies, revisions and updates would be subsequently carried out in the forth- coming issues. 2009 Edition © NTB All Images User Rights, Jagadish Tiwari Images By : Page - 7 - Harka Tamang : Page - 9, 13- Dilip Ali : Page - 17 - Raju Bhandari & : Rest of Images by Jagadish Tiwari BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 2 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:511:47:51 AAMM CCholatseholatse ppeak,eak, EEverestverest rregionegion CONTENTS Introduction/ The Eight-thousanders Mountains Over 8000m High 3 Mt.Everest 5 Mt.Kanchenjunga 7 Mt. Lhotse 9 Mt. Makalu 11 Mt. Cho Oyu 13 Himalayan Peaks of Nepal Mt. Dhaulagiri 15 Mt. Manaslu 17 Mt. Annapurna 19 Some important Mountaineering Rules and Regulations Royalty for Mountaineering Expeditions 21 3 BBooklet.inddooklet.indd 3 55/7/2009/7/2009 1:47:511:47:51 AAMM BBooklet.indd 4 o o k l e 4 4 t . -
CLIMBS and EXPEDITIONS. 1984 261 out the Generous Help of the Indian Expedition on the Normal Route, Which Offered Tents, Oxygen, Food and Even Medicine
CLIMBS AND EXPEDITIONS. 1984 261 out the generous help of the Indian expedition on the normal route, which offered tents, oxygen, food and even medicine. Savov suffered frostbite and was evacuated from Base Camp. Valtchev healed in the Indian camps and Base Camp and suffered no serious consequences. SVETOSLAV KOLEV, Bulgarian Mountaineering Federation Everest. After the brilliant success in 1965, India waited 19 years to put a woman on top of Everest. A seasoned team during May climbed Everest by the traditional southeast ridge. On May 9, from Camp V at 27,800 feet, Phu Dorjee became the first Indian to reach the summit solo. On May 23 Miss Bachendri Pal, Dorjee Lhatoo, Sonam Palzor and Sherpa sirdar Ang Dorje made an ascent directly from the South Co1 in excellent time. (Lhatoo took under five hours.) Bachendri Pal was the first Indian woman and the fifth in the world to climb Everest. Ang Dorje was the second man to make the ascent twice without oxy- gen. We established Base Camp, Camps I, II, III and IV at 17,700, 20,000, 21,600, 24,000 and 26,200 feet on March 16 and 24 and April 9, 15 and 29 respectively. The potential of the team was greatly marred by continuous bad luck. At the beginning, an avalanche from the Lho La claimed the life of one Sherpa and injured six others. A kitchen boy died of pulmonary edema. A group, already poised at the South Col, had to come to the help of the Bulgarian summit pair of Ivan Valtchef and Metodi Savov, who on request had been permitted to come down the southeast ridge. -
THE GERMAN SIKKIM EXPEDITION. 1936. Paul Bauer
• - THE GERMAN SIKKIM EXPEDITION, 1936 ' THE GERMAN SIKKIM EXPEDITION, 1936 1 BY PAUL BAUER Translated ECENT Asiatic expeditions have led to the question whether the presence of many mountaineers and porters is really ... esl5ential for the conquest of Himalayan giants, or whether a party of three or four amateurs, with a reduced number of porters, is not really a far cheaper and more repaying proposition. To act on this latter principle, we started accordingly from Germany on July 10, just a group of four mountaineers. All our objectives were based on the presence of but four or five porters. I was acting as leader and my companions were : · Dr. Karl Wien, in charge also of the scientific and photo grammetrical studies ; Dr. Gunther Hepp, who besides acting as doctor looked after the physiological work ; and Adolf Gottner. Our object was to see how far such a small and mobile party could progress. We wished besides to train the leader also as a nucleus for the fourth attempt on Nanga Parbat, and test once again the equipment, provisions and methods required for the said attempt. Our mountain objectives were the savage and incomparable peaks neighbouring on Kangchenjunga. During our attempt on the latter in 1929 and 193 I, 2 the former, although perpetually staring us in the face, had had to be neglected in view of our still higher aims. We knew, of course, that in the vicinity of Kangchenjunga there existed also unknown and secret glens, covered in their damp and ravine-like recesses with luxuriant vegetation great, deeply-cut chasms on one side, indescribably fierce rock splinters and towering seracs on the other the whole of which must form an unequalled pi.cture. -
Appendix 1 Chronology of Main Events
APPENDIX 1 CHRONOLOGY OF MAIN EVENTS 384-322 B.C.E. Aristotle allegedly stated that the air on high mountains was "too thin for respiration." Cited by Robert Boyle (1660, p. 357) (Fig. 1.1) but disputed. C. 30 B.CE. Reference to the Great Headache Mountain and Little Headache Mountain in the Ch'ien Han Shu (Fig. 1.3). 354-430 St. Augustine of Hippo refers to the thinness of the air on mountains (Fig. 1.2). 399-414 Fa-hien's companion died on a mountain and "a white froth came from his mouth" (Fig. 1.5). This may be the first recorded example of high-altitude pulmonary edema. 1590 Publication by Joseph de Acosta of Historia Natural y Moral de las Indias with its account of mountain sickness (first Spanish edition) (Fig. 1.6). 1598 Anello Oliva also referred to sickness on mountains caused by the thinness of the airs. Other Spanish chroniclers such as Alonso de Ovalle made similar statements. 1604 English translation of Acosta's book The Natural/ and Moral/ Historie of the East and West Indies. 1620 Francis Bacon referred to the belief by the ancients of the rarity of the air on the summit of Mt. Olympus, and the fact that the air was not dense enough for respiration. 1628 William Harvey described the circulation of the blood in De Motu Cordis. 1638 Galileo discusses the resistance of a vacuum. 401 402 HIGH LIFE 1644 Torricelli (Fig. 1.11) invents the mercury barometer and recognizes that the mercury is supported by the weight of the atmosphere (Fig. -
Jerzy Kukuczka
Jerzy Kukuczka Z l ' A TIZENNÉGY NYOLCEZRES meghódítása * ‘ ' 4 má 1 » Ü h te - CORBIS Függőleges világom Jerzy Kukuczka olyan farkasétvágyat érzett a világ legmagasabb hegyei iránt, hogy mindössze nyolc év leforgása alatt sikerült meghódítania a Föld mind a tizen négy nyolcezer méternél magasabb hegycsúcsát. Teljesítményét még kiemelke dőbbé teszi az a mód, ahogyan ezeket a hegyeket megmászta, valamint azok a ne hézségek, melyeket az expedíciók megszervezésének érdekében le kellett küzdenie. Első nyolcezresétől, a Lhocétól eltekintve, az összes többi csúcsra vagy új útvo nalon jutott fel, vagy pedig télen - elsőként - hódította meg a hegyet; a Cső Oju esetében mindkettő igaz. Ezért aztán a Lhoce akkor még megmászatlan déli fala lett Kukuczka számára az a kihívás, mely megkérdőjelezhetetlenné tette volna ered ményeinek hosszú láncolatát. Először 1985-ben tett kísérletet a csúcs meghódítá sára, ezen az új útvonalon. 1989-ben azonban - tíz évvel azután, hogy a normál útvonalon, az Északnyugati-falon megmászta a hegyet - életét vesztette, amikor le zuhant a magasból a Déli-falról. Halálával véget ért Lengyelország és a világ egyik legerősebb, leginnovatívabb és legmegnyerőbb hegymászó egyéniségének életút ja. De mielőtt a Lhocéra indult volna, jerzy Kukuczka megírta emlékiratait. A Függőleges világom egy csendes sziléziai családos ember története, aki ugyan akkor céltudatos tervkovács is volt, és aki tojástáncot járt a lengyelországi, pakisz táni és nepáli bürokrácia útvesztőiben, aki gyárkéményeket festett, miközben a Lho- céról álmodozott, és akinek az esetek túlnyomó többségében zsonglőrködnie kel lett a szűkös valutakerettel, a szegényes élelmiszerkészlettel és a gyenge minőségű felszereléssel, csak azért, hogy elérje mindössze azt a kiinduló pontot, melyet nyu gati hegymászók magától értetődőnek tekinthettek. -
Wet & Wild High & Light Ready to Escape? Breaking Barriers
40445_Cover 6/9/02 12:04 pm Page 1 ISSUEISSUE 2727 -- AUTUMNAUTUMN 20022002 £2.50 £2.50 Wet & Wild River Crossings High & Light Himalaya Lightweight Ready To Escape? Adventure Yearbook 2003 Breaking Barriers The International Meet PORTLAND UPDATE MOUNTAIN ECOLOGY EXCLUSIVE ACTIVPURSUITS CD OFFER STANAGE • LIFE ASSURANCE • MOUNTAIN BOOTS • ACCESS UPDATES CONTENTS FEATURES 14 Feet First Stuart Ingram and Berghaus give an introduction to hiking boots. 20 Breaking Barriers Jamie Andrews reports on the hectic and diverse world of the BMC International Meet. 26 Wild and Wet River crossings - how to reach the other bank, with Plas y Brenin. 30 Jurassic Park Portland is now a World Heritage site. Our 14 20 agent Bond, Clare Bond takes a look at what that means for climbers. 34 Escape to Adventure The stunning Adventure Yearbook 2003. 38 The Right Stuff As the infamous Stanage guide nears completion, resident wordsmith Niall Grimes reflects on this favourite gritstone playground. 40 Over the Odds? Are you paying to much for life insurance as an outdoor enthusiast? Let us help. 26 42 Flower Power Barbara Jones examines how Alpine flowers are staging a comeback in Cwm Idwal. 44 High and Light Stephen Venables and Ken Wilson look at the history of lightweight Himalayan expeditions, from early skirmishes to super-alpine traverses. 48 The Famous Five How the Helly Hansen National Mountaineer- ing Exhibition team picked classic peaks for John Peel. 44 READERS' OFFERS REGULARS 32 Win Anquet Maps 5 Letters Win some great interactive OS maps on CD - 6 News you'll never have to fold a map again! 10 Access News 32 Discount to Activpursuits 24 ACT update The new online magazine. -
Der Magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren Bezwangen Der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary Und Der Sherpa Tensing Norgay Als Erste Den Mount Everest
Titel Der magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren bezwangen der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary und der Sherpa Tensing Norgay als Erste den Mount Everest. Seither versuchen sich Tausende Hobby-Kraxler am höchsten Berg der Erde – das Abenteuer bezahlen viele mit dem Leben. er Spuk beginnt abends zwischen tönt das leise Heulen des Windes und den weiß, dass die Musik des Everest nichts acht und neun, wenn die Sonne hellen Singsang der Sherpas. Gelegentlich Gutes verheißt: Im Eisbruch werden dann Dlängst untergegangen ist über dem rollen oberhalb des Gletschers Lawinen Pfade verschüttet, über die Bergsteiger sich Zeltdorf am Fuß des Mount Everest. Das dumpf donnernd talwärts, und ab und an ihren Weg nach oben bahnen müssen. schneeweiße Monstrum knirscht, knackt ist ein Krachen zu hören, als würden Ge- Vor drei Jahren war Brand schon einmal und poltert, als würde es erwachen. Die bäude einstürzen. Dann haben mächtige hier; damals irrte er auf der tibetischen Bergsteiger und ihre Träger aus dem Volk Séracs, haushohe Eisblöcke, ihren Halt ver- Nordseite zwei Tage orientierungslos im der Sherpas kriechen im 5400 Meter hoch loren und sind zur Seite gekippt. Schneesturm umher. Die Hand war nicht gelegenen Basislager noch tiefer in ihre Gebannt lauscht Roland Brand, 51, in mehr vor Augen zu sehen, „Whiteout“ Schlafsäcke. Die Temperatur ist auf 15 seinem Zelt dem Rumpeln des höchsten nennt sich das Phänomen. Der Schnee war Grad minus abgesackt. Berges der Welt. „Das ist die Musik des zu Eisgranulat erstarrt, und die pfeifenden Der unheimliche Lärm stammt aus dem Everest“, sagt der Bergsteiger aus dem Böen peitschten das Eis so hart auf Brands Eisbruch, einer Gletscherschlucht, die an fränkischen Uffenheim; er kennt die Körper, „dass ich da wie in einem Sand- das nepalesische Basislager grenzt. -
Kangchenjunga
TOWARDS KANGCHENJUNGA • . TOWARDS- KANGCHENJUNGA . BY DOUGLAS SIDE ' SEE no reason why an expedition to the Himalayas, under th~ auspices of the Alpine Club, should not succeed, even if an attempt were made to scale Kinchinjunga ; altitude 28, I 56 ft ..' These are not adventurous words used by our President in Committee, but those used in a Paper read before this Club on June 6, I 882. It is also stated there that, ' One of its northern spurs, at any rate, seems to present no insuperable obstacles. ' 1 We shall refer to Paul Bauer's achievements on this spur later. How was it that its height (which differs from the present Indian Survey figure by only I o ft.) and the accessibility of its spurs \vere known in I88z ? Enquirers cannot do better than start with D. W. Freshfield's Round Kangchenjunga, published in I 903. It is a thrilling account of a complete circuit of the Kangchenjunga Group made in September and October, I8gg, with Professor E. J. Garwood and Signor Vittorio Sella. It contains a list of Books, Government Reports, M~gazine Articles and Maps consulted. Mr. Freshfield's book and the works therein referred to form the basis of this· article. The Himalayas were first crossed by Europeans in I624, when the Portuguese Jesuit Missionaries, Antonio Andrade and Manuel Marques went to establish a mission in Western Tibet. Also about this ·time., two more Portuguese J ~suits, Ca~ral and Cacella, reached Shigatse after traversing Bhutan, thus making the first recorded eastern crossing. Other missionaries, ~avants and explorers reached Tibet by way of Kashmir or Nepal. -
La Montagna È Femmina • Lino Galliani
ALPINISMO AL FEMMINILE indice LA MONTAGNA È FEMMINA Pag. 6 Marie Paradis , Monte Bianco nel 1808 - (1778 - 1839):c hissà cosa pensava Marie Paradis, cameriera in una locanda di Chamonix, quando accettò di seguire un gruppetto di guide capitanate da Jacques Balmat sul Monte Bianco….. Pag. 9 Henriette d'Angeville , Monte Bianco nel 1838 - (1794 - ????): n ell'estate 1838 una nobildonna francese di 44 anni, colta e indipendente, decide di scalare il Monte Bianco Pag. 9 Lucy Walker , Cervino nel 1871 , (1835 - 1916): è stata un'alpinista britannica, la prima donna a salire sul Cervino. Ha cominciato a salire in montagna nel 1858, quando il suo medico le raccomandò le camminate per combattere i reumatismi Pag.10 Meta Claudia Brevoort, Jingfrau – prima salita invernale nel 1871 - (1825 - 1876 ) Pag.10 Annie Smith-Peck , terza donna sul Cervino nel1894 (1850 – 1935) Pag.11 Irene Pigatti , collezionista di prime ascensioni (1859 –1937) Pag.12 Beatrice Tomasson - Parete sud di punta Penia (Marmolada con bufera)(1859 – 1947) Pag. 12 Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell, Agente segreto britannico , madre inglese dell’Iraq, per i beduini: regina del deserto, 53 ore nella bufera sul Finsteraarhorn, nel 1915 viene nominata ufficiale (1868 -1926) è stata un'archeologa, politica e scrittrice. Pag.13 Fanny Bullock Workman , prima alpinista professionista - raggiunge i 7.000 m del Pinnacle Peak (1859 -1925) Pag.16 Marie Félicie Elizabeth Marvingt , DONNA DAVVERO INCREDIDILE ED UNICA !!!! Pag.17 (1875 -1963), è stata atleta, aviatrice e giornalista, ha vinto numerosi premi per i suoi successi sportivi in molte discipline, fra le quali: nuoto, ciclismo, sport invernali, volo con mongolfiera, volo tradizionale, equitazione, ginnastica, tiro a segno e scherma.