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THEMATISCHERessource Titel: Quellen zu deutschen Himalayaexpeditionen (1929-1989) im Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins (DAV), München Title: Sources on German Himalayan Expeditions (1929 - 1989) in the Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins (DAV), Munich Jahr/Year: 2021 Erstellt von/ Nokmedemla Lemtur, CeMIS, Georg-August-Universität Göttingen Compiled by: Beschreibung: Dies ist eine Auflistung der deutschen Bergsteigeexpeditionen im Himalaya zwischen 1929 und 1989. Die indisch-deut- schen Verflechtungen in der Himalayaregion beginnen mit den Reisen der Brüder Adolph, Hermann und Robert Schlagintweit in der Mitte des 19. Jahrhunderts (1854-1857). Ernstzunehmende Versuche, die dortigen Berggipfel zu be- steigen, begannen jedoch erst im frühen 20. Jahrhundert. Die deutschen Expeditionen gehörten zu den wenigen auslän- dischen Unterfangen, welche die Erlaubnis zur Besteigung erhielten. Der erste Versuch war eine gescheiterte Tour auf den Gipfel des Kangchenjunga (8586m) 1929. Daraufhin folgten zahlreiche deutsche Expeditionen in den Himalaya, die größtenteils vom Deutschen Alpenverein (DAV) unterstützt wurden. Der DAV wurde 1869 gegründet und existiert bis heute; das Archiv dieser Expeditionen befindet sich im Besitz des Vereins. Der Löwenanteil des für die Untersuchung dieser Expeditionen relevanten Materials befindet sich in den Archivbeständen: Archivalien von Expeditionsgesellschaf- ten (EXP), Personennachlässe (NAS), Fotografien und Postkarten (FOP) and Dokumentationen (DOK). Hauptsächlich findet sich darin Schriftgut in Form von Korrespondenzen, Tagebüchern, Dokumenten zur Planung der Unterfangen so- wie Berichten über sie. Darüber hinaus können auch andere Quellen wie Fotografien, Tonaufnahmen und Werbemateri- alien eingesehen werden. Expeditionen die in Zusammenarbeit mit Bergsteigern aus weiteren Ländern, vor allem Österreich, durchgeführt wurden, werden in der vorliegenden Liste ebenfalls erwähnt, da auch sie vom DAV oder der Deutschen Himalaya Stiftung (DHS) unterstützt wurden. Das 1952 von Karl Maria Herrligkoffer gegründete Deutsche Institut für Auslandsforschung (DIAF) war die dritte wichtige Institution, die in die deutschen Bergsteigeexpeditionen involviert war. Expeditionsteilnehmer publizierten zudem eigene Berichte sowohl als Artikel in Journalen als auch in Form von Monographien. Diese sind in der beigefügten Bibliographie chronologisch aufgelistet. Diese Auflistung umspannt einen Zeitraum von den 1930ern bis ins Jahr 2016. Die Liste selbst bietet darüber hinaus eine Zusammenstellung von Artikeln über die Expeditionen, die sich in den Publikationen des DAV [DAV Jahrbuch], des britischen und des US-amerikanischen Alpine Clubs [Alpine Journal & American Alpine Journal], sowie des indischen Himalayan Clubs [Himalayan Journal] finden. Dabei ist zu betonen, dass die in dieser Thematischen Ressource angegebene Literatur keinesfalls vollständig ist und sich auf deutsch- und englischsprachige Publikationen beschränkt. Ein Großteil der erwähnten Journale ist gebührenfrei zugänglich. Description: This list provides users details of mountaineering expeditions from Germany to the Himalayas between 1929 and 1989. The history of Indo-German entanglements in the Himalayas goes back to the travels of the Schlagintweit brothers Adolph, Hermann, and Robert in the mid-nineteenth century (1854-1857). However, any serious effort at climbing the peaks only began in the early twentieth century and in this context, the German mountaineering expeditions belonged to the very few foreign expeditions permitted to climb in the Himalayas, beginning with the attempt to climb Kangchenjunga (8586m) in 1929. Several expeditions to the Himalayas were conducted since then mostly with the support of the Deutsche Alpenverein (DAV). The DAV, which was established in 1869 and exists until today, houses the archive of these expeditions. The bulk of sources in the Archiv des Deutschen Alpenvereins on the Himalayan expeditions are in the fol- lowing holdings: Archivalien von Expeditionsgesellschaften (EXP), Personennachlässe (NAS), Fotografien und Post- karten (FOP) and Dokumentationen (DOK). A majority of the written sources from the expeditions are correspondences, diaries, expedition planning and reports. Other sources like photographs, audio recordings and publicity materials are also available in the holdings. Expeditions carried out in partnership with other countries such as Austria, are also mentioned in this list given that they were carried out with the support of the DAV or the Deutsche Himalaya Stiftung (DHS). The other institution involved in German mountaineering expeditions was the Deutsches Institut für Auslandsforschung (DIAF), established by Karl Maria Herrligkoffer in 1952 to explore and climb mountains. The members of these mountaineering expeditions also published their reports either in the form of articles in journals or as monographs. These are systematically listed in the bibliography and organized according to each decade, beginning in the 1930s and ending in 2016. The list also offers an overview of articles on the various expeditions in the journals of the DAV [DAV Jahrbuch], the British and American Alpine Clubs [Alpine Journal & American Alpine Journal], as well as the Indian Himalayan Club [Himalayan Journal]. The literature compiled in this list is not exhaustive and limited to German and English language publications. Most journals mentioned in the list are available in the public domain. MIDA Langfristvorhaben, gefördert durch die Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft. MIDA Long Term Project, funded by the Deutsche Forschungsgemeinschaft (DFG, German Research Foundation). Herausgeber/Editors: Anandita Bajpai, Heike Liebau Layout: Monja Hofmann, Nico Putz Anbieter/Host: ZMO, Kirchweg 33, 14129 Berlin Kontakt/Contact: [email protected] ISSN 2701-2875 © MIDA 2021 Articles/Artikel Year/Jahr Expedition Name [Unterstützt durch / Supported by] Leader/Leiter Members/Mitglieder (AJ – Alpine Journal (UK), AAJ – American Alpine Jounal (USA), HJ – Himalayan Journal (India), MM – Mountain Magazine (UK), DAV – Deutsche Alpenverein Jahrbuch (Germany). Eugen (Alisi) Allwein, Peter Aufschnaiter, Ernst Beigel, Julius · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Brenner, Wilhelm Fendt, Joachim Leupold, Karl Julius · AJ 42:73-77 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "Kangchenjunga, 1929: The Bavarian Attempt." Alexander (Lex) Thoenes, Harry Walter Tobin, Karl von Kraus 1 1929 Deutsche Kangchendzönga-Expedition Paul Bauer · AJ 42:185-202 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "The Fight for Kangchenjunga, 1929." · DAV 61: 1-57 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "Die Deutsche Himalajafahrt 1929." Chettan Sherpa, Ila Kitar Sherpa, Lewa Sherpa, Pasang · HJ 2:13-20 (1930), Bauer, Paul, "The German Attack on Kangchenjunga, 1929." Sherpa Hettie Dyhrenfurth, John S. Hannah, Helmuth Richter, Hermann W. Hoerlin (S), Marcel Louis Kurz, Erwin · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Schneider, Francis Sydney Smythe, H.W. Tobin, George W. · AJ 42:202-226 (1930), Smythe, F. S., "The Assault on Kangchenjunga, 1930." 2 1930 Internationale Himalaya-Expedition Günter Oskar Dyhrenfurth Wood-Johnson, Ulrich Wieland, Charles-Georges Duvanel · HJ 3:77-91 (1931), Dyhrenfurth, G. O., "The International Himalayan Expedition 1930." · DAV 62:47-87 (1931), Dyhrenfurth, Hoerlin, Rächl, "Unsere Himalaja-Expedition 1920.” Chettan Sherpa, Lewa Sherpa, Tsering Norbu Sherpa, Nima Sherpa Eugen Allwein, Peter Aufschnaiter, Julius Brenner, Wilhelm · MM 68:34-40 (Jul 1979), Dyhrenfurth, G. O. & Dyhrenfurth, Norman, "Kangchenjunga." Fendt, Hans Hartmann, Joachim Leupold, Hans (Pepperl) · AJ 44:13-24 (1932), Bauer, Paul, "Kangchenjunga, 1931: The Second Bavarian Attempt." Pircher, Hermann (Xaverl) Schaller, Karl Wien 3 1931 Deutsche Kangchendzönga-Expedition Paul Bauer · DAV 63:62-72 (1932), Hartmann, Hans, "Kangchendzönga 1931." · HJ 4:116-122 (1932), Bauer, Paul, "The Fight for Kangchenjunga, 1931." Babu Lall, Lobsang, Ila Kitar Sherpa, Kami Sherpa, Pasang Sherpa, Pemba Sherpa Peter Aschenbrenner, Fritz Bechtold, Hugo Hamberger, · DAV 64:59-74 (1933), Merkl, Willy, "Die Deutsch-Amerikanische Himalaja-Expedition 1932." 4 1932 Deutsch-Amerikanische Himalaja-Expedition (DAHE) Willy Merkl Rand Herron, Elizabeth Knowlton, Herbert Kunigk, Felix · HJ 5:65-74 (1933), Merkl, Willy, "The Attack on Nanga Parbat." Simon, Fritz Wießner Peter Aschenbrenner, Fritz Bechtold, Willi Bernard, Alfred Drexel, Richard Finsterwalder, Hans Hieronimus, Peter · DAV 66:1-17 (1935), Bechtold, Fritz, "Nanga Parbat 1934, Bericht über die Deutsche Misch, Peter Müllritter, Walter Raechl, Erwin Schneider, Himalajakundfahrt." & Finsterwalder, R., "Die Forschungsarbeit am Nanga Parbat." Willi Welzenbach, Uli Wieland · HJ 7:27-52 (1935), Bechtold, Fritz, "The German Himalayan Expedition to Nanga Parbat, 1934", 5 1934 Deutsche Himalaja-Expedition zum Nanga Parbat Willy Merkl Sangster, "Diary Jottings: Nanga Parbat, 1934", Finsterwalder., "The Scientific Work of the Lewa (Sirdar), Ang Tensing, Ang Tsering, Dakshi, German Himalayan Expedtion to Nanga Parbat, 1934." DawaThondup, Da Thundu, Gaylay, Kitar, Lobsang, Nima · AJ 47:92-102 (1935), Schneider, "The German Assault on Nanga Parbat." Dorje, Nima Tashi, Pasang Kikuli, Nima Norbu, Pint-so Nurbo, SonamTobgay, Wangdi Nurbu · AJ 49:41-49 (1937), Bauer, Paul, "The German Sikkim Expedition, 1936." Kundfahrt zum Siniolchu 6 1936 Paul Bauer Adolf Göttner, Günther Hepp, Karl Wien · HJ 9:62-65 (1937), Wien, Karl, "The Ascent of
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  • Der Magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren Bezwangen Der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary Und Der Sherpa Tensing Norgay Als Erste Den Mount Everest

    Der Magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren Bezwangen Der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary Und Der Sherpa Tensing Norgay Als Erste Den Mount Everest

    Titel Der magische Gipfel Vor 50 Jahren bezwangen der Neuseeländer Edmund Hillary und der Sherpa Tensing Norgay als Erste den Mount Everest. Seither versuchen sich Tausende Hobby-Kraxler am höchsten Berg der Erde – das Abenteuer bezahlen viele mit dem Leben. er Spuk beginnt abends zwischen tönt das leise Heulen des Windes und den weiß, dass die Musik des Everest nichts acht und neun, wenn die Sonne hellen Singsang der Sherpas. Gelegentlich Gutes verheißt: Im Eisbruch werden dann Dlängst untergegangen ist über dem rollen oberhalb des Gletschers Lawinen Pfade verschüttet, über die Bergsteiger sich Zeltdorf am Fuß des Mount Everest. Das dumpf donnernd talwärts, und ab und an ihren Weg nach oben bahnen müssen. schneeweiße Monstrum knirscht, knackt ist ein Krachen zu hören, als würden Ge- Vor drei Jahren war Brand schon einmal und poltert, als würde es erwachen. Die bäude einstürzen. Dann haben mächtige hier; damals irrte er auf der tibetischen Bergsteiger und ihre Träger aus dem Volk Séracs, haushohe Eisblöcke, ihren Halt ver- Nordseite zwei Tage orientierungslos im der Sherpas kriechen im 5400 Meter hoch loren und sind zur Seite gekippt. Schneesturm umher. Die Hand war nicht gelegenen Basislager noch tiefer in ihre Gebannt lauscht Roland Brand, 51, in mehr vor Augen zu sehen, „Whiteout“ Schlafsäcke. Die Temperatur ist auf 15 seinem Zelt dem Rumpeln des höchsten nennt sich das Phänomen. Der Schnee war Grad minus abgesackt. Berges der Welt. „Das ist die Musik des zu Eisgranulat erstarrt, und die pfeifenden Der unheimliche Lärm stammt aus dem Everest“, sagt der Bergsteiger aus dem Böen peitschten das Eis so hart auf Brands Eisbruch, einer Gletscherschlucht, die an fränkischen Uffenheim; er kennt die Körper, „dass ich da wie in einem Sand- das nepalesische Basislager grenzt.
  • Kangchenjunga

    Kangchenjunga

    TOWARDS KANGCHENJUNGA • . TOWARDS- KANGCHENJUNGA . BY DOUGLAS SIDE ' SEE no reason why an expedition to the Himalayas, under th~ auspices of the Alpine Club, should not succeed, even if an attempt were made to scale Kinchinjunga ; altitude 28, I 56 ft ..' These are not adventurous words used by our President in Committee, but those used in a Paper read before this Club on June 6, I 882. It is also stated there that, ' One of its northern spurs, at any rate, seems to present no insuperable obstacles. ' 1 We shall refer to Paul Bauer's achievements on this spur later. How was it that its height (which differs from the present Indian Survey figure by only I o ft.) and the accessibility of its spurs \vere known in I88z ? Enquirers cannot do better than start with D. W. Freshfield's Round Kangchenjunga, published in I 903. It is a thrilling account of a complete circuit of the Kangchenjunga Group made in September and October, I8gg, with Professor E. J. Garwood and Signor Vittorio Sella. It contains a list of Books, Government Reports, M~gazine Articles and Maps consulted. Mr. Freshfield's book and the works therein referred to form the basis of this· article. The Himalayas were first crossed by Europeans in I624, when the Portuguese Jesuit Missionaries, Antonio Andrade and Manuel Marques went to establish a mission in Western Tibet. Also about this ·time., two more Portuguese J ~suits, Ca~ral and Cacella, reached Shigatse after traversing Bhutan, thus making the first recorded eastern crossing. Other missionaries, ~avants and explorers reached Tibet by way of Kashmir or Nepal.
  • La Montagna È Femmina • Lino Galliani

    La Montagna È Femmina • Lino Galliani

    ALPINISMO AL FEMMINILE indice LA MONTAGNA È FEMMINA Pag. 6 Marie Paradis , Monte Bianco nel 1808 - (1778 - 1839):c hissà cosa pensava Marie Paradis, cameriera in una locanda di Chamonix, quando accettò di seguire un gruppetto di guide capitanate da Jacques Balmat sul Monte Bianco….. Pag. 9 Henriette d'Angeville , Monte Bianco nel 1838 - (1794 - ????): n ell'estate 1838 una nobildonna francese di 44 anni, colta e indipendente, decide di scalare il Monte Bianco Pag. 9 Lucy Walker , Cervino nel 1871 , (1835 - 1916): è stata un'alpinista britannica, la prima donna a salire sul Cervino. Ha cominciato a salire in montagna nel 1858, quando il suo medico le raccomandò le camminate per combattere i reumatismi Pag.10 Meta Claudia Brevoort, Jingfrau – prima salita invernale nel 1871 - (1825 - 1876 ) Pag.10 Annie Smith-Peck , terza donna sul Cervino nel1894 (1850 – 1935) Pag.11 Irene Pigatti , collezionista di prime ascensioni (1859 –1937) Pag.12 Beatrice Tomasson - Parete sud di punta Penia (Marmolada con bufera)(1859 – 1947) Pag. 12 Gertrude Margaret Lowthian Bell, Agente segreto britannico , madre inglese dell’Iraq, per i beduini: regina del deserto, 53 ore nella bufera sul Finsteraarhorn, nel 1915 viene nominata ufficiale (1868 -1926) è stata un'archeologa, politica e scrittrice. Pag.13 Fanny Bullock Workman , prima alpinista professionista - raggiunge i 7.000 m del Pinnacle Peak (1859 -1925) Pag.16 Marie Félicie Elizabeth Marvingt , DONNA DAVVERO INCREDIDILE ED UNICA !!!! Pag.17 (1875 -1963), è stata atleta, aviatrice e giornalista, ha vinto numerosi premi per i suoi successi sportivi in molte discipline, fra le quali: nuoto, ciclismo, sport invernali, volo con mongolfiera, volo tradizionale, equitazione, ginnastica, tiro a segno e scherma.