The Organic Cotton Initiative

Organic cotton delivers proven benefits for people and the environment - when it comes to making sustainability claims you can trust, nothing beats it. GOTS certified jeansby Monkee Genes

A joint Soil Association and Global Organic Textile Standard campaign Photo Mark by Ingham Liv and for Picalilly

There are 100million cotton farmers producing cotton in 80 countries worldwide

Demand for cotton increases every year but the price tag for its production is rarely seen in the shops, the damaging consequences of growing cotton are felt in the fields, by the farmers and families that produce it.

What does the cotton in your Make a real impact clothes say about you? Organic cotton is proven to Despite an ever increasing consumer deliver benefits for people and the demand for organic cotton – Textile environment - when it comes to Exchange predict that global retail making trustworthy sustainability demand for organic cotton will claims about cotton, nothing beats it. increase by at least 10% in 2011- 12 - some brands are doing nothing Textile Exchange predict to address the consequences of that global retail demand for cotton production, and others are opting for easier and less- organic cotton will increase effective sustainability schemes. by at least 10% in 2011-12.

While some schemes provide an Pull your cotton socks up 1.Give control to farmers, not GM companies important step on the ladder to Millions of cotton farmers and billions improving the impacts of cotton of consumers want you to lead the 2.Eliminate hazardous synthetic pesticides production, they do not go far way. Commit to organic to secure a enough. The majority of cotton safe and sustainable future for cotton. 3.Help farmers feed their families production is still toxic, thirsty, and energy intensive. The rise of GM This briefing shows why organic is 4.Save precious water cotton is putting farmers’ livelihoods the choice for people who are serious and choices at risk. about sustainability. 5.Combat climate change 02. 03. 1.Give control to farmers, Freedom not GM companies of choice? Organic farmers don’t have their choices controlled by GM companies “Just a few years back all the cotton Bt cotton1 is the only GM crop that seed varieties is getting less and grown here was non-GM. When the seed has been widely commercialised in less.13 14 15 Farmers can’t control the companies came they made sure none of developing countries, but it is yet to quality and type of seeds they use, the non-GM seeds were available to buy, prove its worth for the mainly small- compromising yields and giving so farmers were forced to convert scale farmers in these countries them no choice but to use GM seeds. to growing Bt cotton. who are responsible for 75% of global cotton production.2 3 Touted Organic cotton production never “The GM companies might claim that by GM companies as a silver bullet uses GM seed. The small-scale the yield has increased, but the fact against poverty and hunger, Bt farmers who produce the majority remains that input costs have risen cotton is proving to be neither.4 of cotton need reliability, not high disproportionately. Here, it was only after risks. Using low external inputs GM cotton was introduced that the use of Bt cotton does not guarantee a good that are locally available, organic pesticides started, with Bt cotton you have harvest or higher yield, in fact it can be allows farmers to work within their to use a lot of fertilisers and chemicals. more vulnerable to external pressures limits and with their environment, Every single day we see at least one of like drought and disease.5 This makes in a sustainable way. Organic cotton our farmers killing themselves because GM a risky option for farmers who puts choices in the farmer’s hands. they unable to repay their debts. If all cannot afford to spend more money on farmers are secure and happy as the Bt seed companies claim, then why are GM company Monsanto now controls a staggering farmers killing themselves?” 95% of the cotton seed market in India. Kusum Rao, an organic farmer the higher priced seed6, pesticides7 and “The benefits that were assured from Adilabad District in India fertilisers8 it demands. Farmers are from Bt cotton cultivation are not and Chairman of Chetna Organic gambling their livelihoods and getting coming... Farmers have to use more Farmer Association into debt in the hope of higher returns.9 pesticides and chemical fertilisers, as a result of which there has been GM companies increasingly control an increase in input costs and *Organic cotton production cotton seed markets. GM company reduction in profit margins leading to must be certified according to national and international Monsanto now controls a staggering farmer’s indebtedness and suicides.” Could your cotton be GM cotton? regulations. Certification of the processing stage 95% of the cotton seed market in Basudeb Acharia, Chairman of the Organic (GOTS or OE)* No ensures organic content in final products: The Organic India, where 68% of organic cotton is India’s Parliamentary Standing Fairtrade16 No Exchange (OE) standards cover traceability of organic 10 11 12 19 grown. Consequently, research Committee on Agriculture Cotton Made in Africa 17 No fibre (from 5-100% content). The Global Organic Textile into and availability of non-GM Better Cotton Initiative18 Yes Standard (GOTS) is even higher, ensuring traceability Conventional Cotton Yes as well as strict criteria for ecological and socially responsible textile processing.

04. Photo Böthling, Jörg by provided Remei AG GOTS certified topby Seasalt 05. Clean up your act

Photo Böthling, Jörg by provided Remei AG The impacts of producing our clothes are GOTS certifies thousands of textile felt beyond the cotton fields. Greenpeace’s businesses around the world and is fast Dirty Laundry campaign brought to light becoming the accepted standard for truly the toxic water pollution resulting from organic textiles. In fact in the USA, where the release of hazardous chemicals by the textile products labeled as ‘organic’ are textile industry. These practices are posing legally required to be certified organic serious and immediate threats to our from production to processing, GOTS precious ecosystems and human health. is an officially recognised standard.

To find out more visit 20% of freshwater pollution www.global-standard.org comes from textile treatment and dyeing.33 “Internationally recognised GOTS certification offers independent assurance The Global Organic Textile to consumers that organic fibres have Standard (GOTS) is the been processed in an environmentally world’s leading organic and socially responsible way.” textile processing standard. Marcus Bruegel, Technical Director, GOTS It ensures that textiles are truly organic at every stage of production - from “The textile industry has a ginning, through environmentally and huge supply chain and complex socially responsible manufacturing production processes spanning up to labelling of the final product. from where the original fibres are sourced all the way to where GOTS makes sure that: the products reach the hands • Inputs in processing such as of consumers. Organic cotton dyes and inks comply with and natural fabrics are among strict biodegradability and the key ingredients companies toxicity requirements • Factories have functioning waste should use to address their water treatment plants to protect full environmental footprint, Sustainability claims you can trust alongside urgently eliminating local ecosystems and water supplies From farm to shop shelf, it’s important that “3rd party accreditation ensures all releases of hazardous • Products do not contain any sustainability claims have credibility and credibility in the market place allergenic, carcinogenic or chemicals from the full life- traceability. Consumers want to make truly and preserves customer trust – toxic chemical residues cycle of their products and sustainable choices and brands need to be able you can be sure that the change • Core International Labour production processes in order to rely on what they say. 3rd party accreditation you claim to be making is really Organisation (ILO) conventions must to deliver toxic-free fashion.” (required legally for organic production) gives happening on the ground” be met throughout manufacture and brands and consumers the confidence to know a social compliance management Zeina AlHajj, Head of Agriculture and Toxic that their claims and choices are trustworthy Campaigns at Greenpeace International Anne Gillespie, Director of Industry Integrity, system must be set up and making a real impact. Textile Exchange

06. 07. 2.Eliminate hazardous

synthetic pesticides Organic cotton dress People by Tree Organic cotton doesn’t use dangerous pesticides, Organic protecting farmers’ lives and the environment

Cotton is a toxic crop. Occupying just The pesticides used in cotton 2.5% of agricultural land area, it uses pollute freshwater lakes and rivers, 7% of the total amount of pesticides contaminating drinking water for a used in farming globally each year and sources and threatening precious 16% of all insecticides.20 21 In developing ecosystems.30 countries, cotton is thought to account for 50% of total pesticide use.22 There is another way. As organic healthier cotton farmers around the world Pesticides put in peril the lives of demonstrate every day, cotton can be women, men and children in cotton grown without pesticides. Pollution farming communities.23 and poisonings are an unnecessary future Up to 77million cotton workers suffer poisoning from pesticides each year

Acute poisoning from pesticides is consequence of cotton production. By commonplace in cotton production; eliminating all hazardous synthetic deaths from severe poisoning are pesticides in its production, not just widespread - up to 77 million cotton reducing them like other sustainable workers suffer poisoning from cotton schemes, organic cotton offers pesticides each year.24 25 26 Suffering is a healthy and sustainable farming most severe in developing countries, future for farmers and their families. Chetna Organic where poverty makes people more Organic takes the toxic impact out of vulnerable, either due to lack of producing cotton.31 understanding of the risk, illiteracy or insufficient protective clothing.27 “By removing toxic chemical pesticides from production, Pesticides don’t just cost lives, they organic cotton empowers farmers - often land small scale farmers in protecting the health of their land, debt too. Increasingly expensive, families and wider community. pesticides can make up 60% of the Retailers should be putting organic costs of cotton production, eating into cotton on our high streets, in doing “It has been 5 years now since I decided to convert the harvest. And more importantly, my children’s diminishing returns and pushing so they will protect the lives and to organic cotton. I made this decision in 2001 health is no longer at risk.” farmers into debt.28 29 livelihoods of millions of farmers because I had just suffered a miscarriage due to around the world.” the use of pesticides. Organic cotton has given me Evelyn Ate Kokale is an organic cotton farmer in The toxic impacts extend beyond the Juliette Williams, Campaign Director, more independence as a woman, because I receive Glazoué District, Benin32 cotton fields and farming families. Environmental Justice Foundation a better income, and I am paid immediately after 08. 09. 3.Help farmers feed

their families Photo Böthling, Jörg by provided Remei AG

Organic cotton enables farmers to grow other crops for food and income

The number of hungry people in the farmers can be left with nothing to world grows each year and most of fall back on. Because they just grow the chronically hungry are small-scale cotton, monoculture cotton farmers farmers in the developing world.34 have to buy all their food, so they Unfortunately, the majority of cotton are vulnerable to price spikes farming does little to help farmers and food shortages.36 feed themselves or their families. Organic cotton production Cotton is normally grown as a improves food security for farmers ‘monoculture’ - a farming approach and their communities. which involves the production of just

“Research shows that organic agriculture is a good option for food security... and [is] more sustainable in the long term” United Nations Conference of Trade and Development (UNCTAD)38

one crop.35 But relying on one crop Organic principles require that is fraught with risk. Input costs are farmers grow a diversity of crops high, and returns can be low - a short to maintain healthy and fertile soils growing season means small-scale and fight off pests. These crops cotton farmers rarely see sufficient or often double-up as a source of food, sustained returns. If the crop fails, enabling farmers and their families

GOTS certified denimby BLUBLU to feed themselves all year round.

Any surplus food can be sold at local or regional markets, bringing Food security extra income and improving the food security of cotton farmers’ “With organic cotton farming, our I would like to run for political office local communities.37 Income food security is good; food production and campaign for organic to replace diversification, from growing food is improved by our crop rotation. He conventional cotton and so remove or other crops, also helps insure who grows organic cotton must also the risk of food poisoning and other organic farmers against crop failure, sow goussi (squash), cowpea or maize. diseases caused by pesticides.” climate variability, price volatility We can eat the vegetables we grow and changes in market demand. without fear of pesticide poisoning. Attadé Gantoli is a producer from In organic cotton there is no cheating. Agondji in the Department of Zou, The farmer gets what is due to him. Benin, Africa.39 10. 11. Organic Farmers, taken People by Tree Think ahead

Cotton retailers can make sound investments by opting to take a long term view. Building relationships with suppliers and committing to purchase in advance benefits everyone; it secures farmers’ income, helping farmers plan ahead and make investments to improve

living standards and their farming GOTS certified jeansby Monkee Genes practices, which in turn reduces the price of producing organic cotton. “Long term commitments eliminate risks for farmers and brands – it brings The price of organic includes investments price stability – enabling both parties made by farmers who recognise to plan ahead” the importance of protecting their Anne Gillespie, Textile Exchange environment. By maintaining soil fertility, preserving biodiversity, conserving water “Jackpot has partnered up with resources and using renewable resources, Solidaridad and the Chetna Organic there are no hidden costs. Their return farmers for more than six years now. on investment is felt by people and the We listen closely to the needs of the environment, now and in the future. farmers and lay the plans together. We provide loans and up-front purchase A low cotton price should leave you commitments. Farmers are able to wondering – who is really paying the invest and plan, allowing them to price? The farmer who could get paid less offer organic at more competitive for their harvest than it costs them to prices. Everyone benefits.” produce it? Or the environment, degraded Maryam Azmayesh Terp, Organic produces quality cotton and polluted by fertilisers and pesticides CSR Manager, Jackpot “In our eight years of working with compared like-for-like, organic fibres used with only profit in mind? Perhaps the organic cotton from Turkey and consistently produce better quality brand who risks their good reputation in India, we have never had any issues yarns than conventional cotton.” hope of a good deal? with the quality or performance Mariusz Stochaj, Head of Product, of the organic fibres. In fact, when Continental Clothing

12. 13. 4.Save precious water

Organic cotton uses less water, preserving a scarce and precious resource for the future

In some parts of the world cotton What’s more, organic practices production is putting unsustainable require that cotton farmers keep

pressure on our precious and their soils healthy – healthy soils are photoHye ParkEric EJF, by for Guillemain, www.ejfoundation.org vital water resources. One of the better at holding on to and soaking thirstiest crops we farm, cotton up water that comes from rain or uses 11,000 litres of water on irrigation, so organic soils make average for each kilogram of cotton better use of water inputs and are produced.40 Most cotton is irrigated, more resilient in drought conditions.46 draining groundwater, lakes and rivers, threatening ecosystems, wildlife and water availability Organic practices keep for other humans needs.41 soils healthy so they are better at holding water Of all the water used in cotton and more resilient to production, up to a fifth could be drought conditions used to try and dilute pollution.42 Intensive use of artificial pesticides and fertilisers in non-organic cotton By eliminating the use of synthetic production means that they can pesticides and fertilisers, organic

Photo Böthling, Jörg by provided Remei AG drain into water systems. Pesticides cotton keeps waterways and drinking used in cotton have frequently water safe and clean. The water Water footprints & been found in rivers, lakes and pollution impact of organic has streams of cotton producing been shown to be 98% less than countries across the world.43 non-organic cotton production.47 These chemicals pollute rivers organic farming and precious groundwater “Our study shows that organic stores, upsetting fragile farming can significantly reduce ecosystems and posing a toxic the grey water footprint of cotton by risk to wildlife and people.44 avoiding the use of pesticides and In India, contamination of rivers impact on water resources was dramatically fertilisers that pollute waterways and groundwater by pesticides and less than on non-organic farms. The grey Organic cotton saves water. when they runoff from farm fields.” fertilisers from agriculture has been well water footprint51 of non-organic farms was 80% of organic production is Ruth Mathews, Executive Director, documented.49 In 2010 C&A funded a 43,433m3 per tonne of cotton, 98% more rain fed rather than irrigated, Water Footprint Network48 study conducted by the Water Footprint than the organic farms’ grey water footprint so organic cotton preserves Network to compare pollution levels from of 733m3 per tonne. The strength of their important groundwater stores.45 organic and non-organic cotton farming findings led the researchers to conclude in the country.50 Sampling a total of 480 that “the results clearly favour a wider organic and non-organic cotton farms, implementation of organic agriculture.” their research found that organic cotton’s

14. 15. 5.Combat climate change Organic cotton Organic cotton farming uses less energy and healthy organic soils store more CO production comes top 2 Cotton production will be one of nitrogen inputs, organic cotton The gold standard for sustainable cotton production climate change’s many victims.52 growing produces up to 94% less Higher temperatures and extreme greenhouse gas emissions.57 58 59 By Compared to non-organic cotton and Fairtrade organic cotton provides weather events are predicted to maintaining their health, organic entry level schemes such as CMiA an added guarantee that farmers reduce yields and farmer incomes practices turn soils into a carbon ‘sink’, and BCi, organic is recognised as have received a price that covers

53 60 the highest standard for sustainable the minimum cost of production, around the world. Unless changes removing CO2 from the atmosphere. are made to reduce this impact Organic soils soak up and hold more cotton production. In Textile and similarly requires independent and adapt to climate change then water so they can better cope with Exchange’s continuum of sustainable verification of production standards our ability to grow crops and the floods and drought.61 cotton, organic is top because it - 19% of Fairtrade cotton is 63 livelihoods of farmers around the delivers the highest environmental organically produced. world will be seriously compromised. While the impacts of climate change and socio-economic benefits, and are already being felt around the the production standards are independently certified. KT Tunstall wears EJF Climate Week Photo ©Stephanie by Sian Smith Of the 15kg C02e that is emitted world, organic cotton farmers and in the life of a cotton T-shirt, 14% their crops are more resilient to of these emissions are produced these impacts. Mixed cropping What about the rest of the 54 growing cotton. High-input, and low inputs also reduce the cotton supply chain? intensive cotton farming uses a lot financial risks for farmers if one of energy; manufacturing fertilisers crop is wiped out by increasingly It’s also important to and pesticides to boost crops, using frequent extreme weather events. consider the manufacturing fuel to drive vehicles to spray them. process of products when 83% of manufactured nitrogen “Organic agriculture not only making organic claims. OE Certified to GOTS standard - traceability of organic fibre content + fertilisers spread on crops end up enables ecosystems to better certified products are made environmentally and socially responsible manufacture with organic cotton which “Organic” claims can By maintaining their health, organic practices has been traced through legitimately be made on products turn soils into a carbon ‘sink’ removing CO the supply chain. A step 2 Certified to OE standard - traceability further is GOTS certified from the atmosphere of organic fibre content only products which have been “Made with organically grown cotton” claims can legitimately be made on products in the environment, releasing huge adjust to the effects of climate traced through the supply

amounts of N20 and contributing 42% change, but also offers a major chain and each processing of cotton’s on-farm emissions.55 56 potential to reduce emissions stage has been certified Certified Organic at farm level only of greenhouse gases” against strict social and Any claims made will need to be able to be justified… Organic cotton farmers are doing Food and Agriculture Organisation environmental criteria. ? their bit to combat climate change. By of the United Nations62 eliminating the use of manufactured fertilisers and pesticides and reducing “Consumers can be sure that a product carrying the GOTS ‘organic’ symbol is not only produced with a minimum of 95% organic fibre content but also processed to strict environmental and social criteria” Claudia Kersten Marketing Director, GOTS.

16. 17. Author Amy Leech, Soil Association Acknowledgements Cotton on With many thanks to Georgina Thomas of Soil Association Certification and Sarah Compson of Soil Association for their impetus and guidance and to Claudia Kersten of GOTS for her expert advice regarding processing aspects. Thanks must also go to Liesl Truscott of Textile Exchange, and Simon Ferrigno for providing information and advice. We are also grateful to the many contributors Brands and retailers It’s time to take your consumers and to this briefing:EJF , PAN UK, Cotton Connect, C&A, The Water Footprint Network, Greenpeace, sustainability seriously. If you want to lead the way in sustainable cotton Continental Clothing, Seasalt, Remei, Jackpot, People Tree, Monkee Genes, Liv, BLUBLU and commit to organic cotton production and processing. Cotton on at Textile Exchange. Special thanks go to Chetna Organic for their help and valuable contributions. www.cottonedon.org References

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diversity, increase availability and ensure 35 Congress on Organic Cotton, Swizerland, quality of non-GM cotton seed. (http://www. Truscott, L. (2012) What’s organic cotton got September 2009. (http://www.organicandfair. Organic Exchange is a respected standard covering the traceability of organically fibl.org/fileadmin/documents/en/news/2011/ to do with feeding the world? Textile Exchange org/oftcc/Events/Documentation/WCOC.php) pr_india110706_DharwadDeclaration.pdf) blog. Available at: http://textileexchange. org/blog/what%E2%80%99s-organic-cotton- 57 The Carbon Trust (2011) International grown fibre through the supply chain. It is a chain of custody standard only, and 15 Naranjan, N. (2011) Crisis and Solutions – The got-do-feeding-world [Accessed 12 July] Carbon Flows - Clothing Non-GMO cotton seed issue in India. In Textile 36 58 Exchange Farm Engagement Newsletter. PAN UK (2007) The Chemical Trap, Stories Pollheimer, D, L (2006) Switcher Climate does not apply social or environmental requirements on processors. Independent (http://farmhub.textileexchange.org/upload/ from African Fields. (https://secure.virtuality. Project: CO2 –neutral T-Shirt. Report newsletters/english/Textile%20Exchange_ net/panukcom/PDFs/album.pdf) Preliminary Study (Draft Version) ECOS. third party certification is required for the whole supply chain. It enables legitimate Engage%20Newsletter_July%202011.pdf) 37 Truscott, L., Aranda, D., Nagarajan, P., 59 Soth, J (2009) Organic cotton and climate change. Tovignan, S and Travaglini, A. (2009) A 16 Fairtrade Standards prohibits the use of GMO, 60 Robertson, J,P., Paul, E,A., Harwood, R,R. including seeds and planting stock, for all Fairtrade snapshot of Crop Diversification in Organic ‘Organically Grown cotton’ claims to be made on final products. For more information Cotton Farms. Organic Exchange. (http:// (2000) Greenhouse gases in intensive producers. The use of GMO materials is checked agriculture: contributions of individual as part of the audit process, carried out by 3rd farmhub.textileexchange.org/upload/library/ Farm%20reports/Crop%20diversification.pdf) gases to the radiative forcing of the visit: www.textileexchange.org party and ISO 65 accredited certifier FLO-CERT. atmosphere. Science, 289, pp.192-1925. 38 UNCTAD (2009) Sustaining African Agriculture: 17 The use of genetically modified seeds is one of 61 Bot, A., Benites, J. (2005) The importance the exclusion criteria included in the Cotton Organic Production. Policy Briefs, No.6, Rev.1. (http://unctad.org/en/docs/presspb20091rev1_en.pdf) of soil organic matter: Key to resistant soil made in Africa Standards (exclusion criteria and sustained food production. FAO. (ftp:// No11). See www.cotton-made-in-africa.com. 39 From ‘PAN UK, Organic cotton report ftp.fao.org/agl/agll/docs/sb80e.pdf) Benin, forthcoming 2012 18 BCI has adopted a position of being ‘technology 62 Food and Agriculture Organisation of the United The organic cotton initiative is a joint campaign by Soil neutral’ with respect to GM cotton. 40 Chapagan, A, K., Hoekstra, A, Y., Savenije, Nations (2002) Organic agriculture, environment 19 Acharia, B (2012) Genetically Modified crops H, H, G and Gautam, R. (2005) The water and food security. Scialabba, N, E and Hattam, C. no panacea for food security. Online article in footprint of cotton consumption. Value of Eds. Environment and Natural Resources Service Association and GOTS, communicating the benefits of organic The Hindu, August 12 (http://www.thehindu. Water, Research Report Series No.18 Sustainable Development Department. (http:// www.fao.org/docrep/005/y4137e/y4137e00.htm) com/opinion/interview/article3800463. 41 Soth, J (1999) The impact of cotton on freshwater cotton for people and the environment, and calling on ece) Accessed on 29 Aug 2012. resources and ecosystems: A preliminary 63 Fairtrade (2011) Annual Report 2011-12: For 20 United Nations Food and Agriculture Organisation synthesis. C. Grasser and R. Salemo, eds. producers, with producers. (http://www.fairtrade. (2005) FAOSTAT (http://faostat.org) World Wildlife Fund. (http://awsassets. net/fileadmin/user_upload/content/2009/ brands, consumers and organisations to choose organic. panda.org/downloads/impact_long.pdf) resources/2011-12_AnnualReport_web_ 21 International Cotton Advisory Committee (2008) 42 version_small_FairtradeInternational.pdf) An interpretative study on: Pesticide use in cotton Chapagan et al (2005) The water footprint of cotton consumption.

Visit www.cottonedon.org to find out more and show your support for organic cotton. All photos are for illustrative purposes and are not the people being quoted. Copyright in all campaign material is vested in both Soil Association and GOTS jointly and is licensed under Creative Commons license by-nc-sa 18. 19. Organic means?

Organic means that something has been produced according to comprehensive standards that are verified by independent certification bodies. It is the most reliable, transparent and rigorous system available across the globe for ensuring sustainable production.

Organic farming uses traditional and new scientific knowledge to grow crops in a way that develops healthy, fertile soil, conserves biodiversity and protects natural resources - minimising the use of non-renewable and off-farm inputs.

True sustainability isn’t about tinkering around the edges. It means making the whole production system work with our resources, environment and people in a way that allows cotton farming and processing and the people involved in it to prosper, for many years to come.

GOTS certified jeansby Monkee Genes A joint Soil Association and Global Organic Textile Standard campaign