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Home , Collar (clothing), Heather (fabric), Herringbone (cloth), Organic cotton, Pajamas, Pile weave

Apparel Glossary of Terms

Yarn & Terms : A manufactured fiber composed s m r e of t regenerated f o y r a s s o l g cellulose derived from wood pulp that is dissolved in a solution, ACRYLIC: A manufactured fiber with a soft, -like hand, extruded into filaments, and into fiber lengths. machine washable and dryable, excellent color retention. Recycled PET: PET is the abbreviated name for : A plant related to the grass species which is terephthalate, the used to create a naturally sustainable resource. Bamboo grows without soda bottles. Recycled soda bottles are processed and the use of , is biodegradable, regenerative and converted into that are knit into the fabric of generates more oxygen than trees. Bamboo fiber is spun our recycled fleece. into and knit into fabric which is inherently antimicrobial RING SPUN (RS): and moisture absorbent. A system of yarns using a ring-and- traveler which combines multiple processes (drafting, CARDED YARN (KP): A yarn which has gone through twisting and winding) into one process. Yarns are stronger an opening and cleaning process, containing a wide range of than open end spun yarns. fiber lengths. Carded yarns are not as or strong as : combed yarn. A manufactured elastomeric fiber that can be repeatedly stretched over 500% without breaking, and will still COMBED YARN (CP): A cotton yarn which contains straighter recover to its original length. and longer fibers (over 1 1/8”) for better uniformity and strength. Sustainable Fibers: An additional “combing” step is conducted on carded yarn to Fibers made from resources that produce combed yarn. contribute to the productivity of natural ecological systems and help to reduce long-term/harmful effects on the COTTON: A that grows in the seed pod of the environment. cotton plant. Fibers are typically 1/2 inch to 2 inches long. The longest fibers produce the highest quality cotton fabrics. Fabric Terms : A measurement commonly associated with , AIR-JET TEXTURED : A very high filament fabric in meaning the number of needles per inch in a which yarns are propelled through a by means of a jet of : A yarn that is spun using pre-dyed fibers. These air at high speeds giving it a very soft texture. fibers are blended together to give a particular look. (For : A fine, closely woven, lustrous cotton or example, black and white may be blended together to create cotton/poly blend made in . a grey heathered yarn.) The term, heather, may also be used to describe the fabric made from heathered yarns. : A fabric usually made from cotton, , , or in heavier weights, plain or double-end plain weaves, MAN MADE FIBER (SYNTHETIC): The class name for fibers which featuring strength and firmness. are chemically produced (acrylic, nylon, polyester, acetate, etc.). CHAMBRAY: A plain , most commonly in cotton, MERCERIZED YARN: A solution process for cotton incorporating a colored warp (often blue) and white filling yarns. yarn which increases strength, dyeability, and luster of the finished fabric. CIRCULAR KNIT (Tubular): Fabric knit on circular needle-bed knitting machine which produces fabric in tubular form. : Ultra-fine manufactured fibers, made using technology to produce fibers which weigh less than : A weave fabric made with different colored yarns 1.0 denier for a superior hand, drape, and softness. Microfibers in the warp and the weft. Due to the twill construction, the are two times finer than , three times finer than cotton, warp color predominates on the fabric surface. eight times finer than wool, and one hundred times finer than DOUBLE-TUCK PIQUE: A pique knit fabric with a tuck , a human hair. where two loops are formed in a single loop, creating a NATURAL FIBER: The class name for fibers of animal (silk, . wool), vegetable (cotton, flax, , jute, and ) or mineral END-ON-END: A fabric in which white or contrast color threads origin (). are interwoven alternately with colored threads to produce a NYLON: Produced in 1938, the first completely subtle textured effect. developed. Known for its high strength and excellent resilience, FAILLE: A soft, finely-ribbed woven fabric made using heavier nylon has superior abrasion resistance and high flexibility. yarns in the cross- to produce a horizontal, ribbed effect. OPEN END SPUN (OE): A system of spinning yarns which : A plain or twill weave fabric that has a very soft introduces twist without rotating the yarn package. Yarn is hand, brushed on both sides to lift the fiber ends out of the spun at exceptionally high speeds for cost savings. base fabric and create a soft, fuzzy surface. End-uses include : Cotton that is grown without the use of , linings, and pajamas. toxic pesticides and synthetic . Vantage’s organic FLEECE: A soft bulky fabric with deep ; used chiefly for . cotton is also manufactured without the use of chemical : A variation on the twill weave construction bleaches and . in which the twill is reversed, or broken, at regular intervals, PIMA COTTON: A premium cotton that has very fine, strong, producing a zigzag effect. lustrous, extra long fibers which makes for superior fabrics with : A variation on the twill weave a lustrous appearance and soft hand. Fine long staple cotton, construction in which a broken check effect is produced, named for Pima County, Arizona. utilizing at least two different colored yarns. POLYESTER: A manufactured fiber introduced in the early JACQUARD: A specialty fabric of intricate weave or knit pattern. 1950s, having high strength, excellent resiliency, high abrasion : A single knit fabric with a smooth, flat face, and a resistance, and rapid drying. more textured, but uniform back, may be produced on either POLYNOSIC RAYON: Rayon staple fibers which are high-wet circular or machines. modulus (improved resistance to deformation, wrinkling). Fiber length is twice as long as conventional rayon.

rev 02/08 Apparel Glossary of Terms

Fabric Terms (cont.) after . Color remains on the surface s m of r e the t fabric f o (not y r a s s o l g absorbed fully into the yarns), making it susceptible to color KNIT: Fabric formed by interlooping one or more strands rub-off (crocking). of yarn by the use of knitting needles. The vertical rows of loops are called “wales”; horizontal rows of loops are called MOISTURE MOVEMENT: Process of a fabric absorbing liquid “courses”. Changing the loop arrangement will produce a moisture (by wicking) and moving it to the outer surface so it may variety of knit constructions or stitches, such as pique, interlock, rapidly evaporate. jersey, rib, etc. PIECE DYED: Color is introduced onto fabric, “in the piece”, after or knitting, providing a single color for the material. MESH: A type of fabric characterized by its -like open appearance, and the spaces between the yarns; available as a SOIL/STAIN RELEASE FINISH: Topical chemical treatment acting woven or knits. as fabric shield for protection against water-based and oil- based soils or stains. Liquids -up on fabric surface for quick MICROSUEDE: Woven fabric made from microfiber yarns that blotting, absorbed soils or stains are released from fibers during are napped and sheared to provide a ‘suede-effect’. home laundering. MILANO KNIT: Identified by a fine rib effect on the face of ULTRAVIOLET PROTECTION: Fabric that provides protection the fabric. by Ultra Violet Radiation (UVR) from passing through, KNIT: A warp-faced fabric showing a bold weftway- reducing the risk of skin injury associated with Ultra Violet rib effect on the face. exposure. The Ultraviolet Protection Factor (UPF) is the : A lightweight woven fabric in a 2 x 1 basket weave measure of the UVR protection provided by the fabric. UVR variation of the plain weave construction. The fabric is used protection can be created through a combination of fiber type, primarily in shirtings. stitch construction, color, etc., or by topical treatment with a PIQUE: A knit fabric distinguished as a waffle or honeycomb chemical finish for ultraviolet radiation protective properties. surface effect. WATER REPELLENT: Fabric has a thin coating applied to the : A fabric made using a rib variation of the plain weave, outer fabric which allows water to bead up and roll off instead having a slight ridge effect in the filling direction. of being absorbed. The fabric is permeable to air and is : Two or more layers of fabric which have been comfortable to wear. The finish is temporary and will wear off. stitched through, often with batting. The stitching forms a WATER PROOF: Fabric provides maximum wet weather pattern, most commonly a square or diamond shape. protection by preventing all water entry under severe and RIB KNIT: Rib knits have a very high degree of elasticity in the demanding conditions. The fabric is impermeable to water crosswise direction. This is commonly used for and air, and usually uncomfortable to wear. For a garment to cuffs, neckbands/collars, and . Rib be water proof, every design and construction detail must be knits provide a close, body-hugging fit. engineered (such as sealing exposed seams, protected and other closures) to be completely leak proof. RIP-STOP: Large rib yarns in this plain weave fabric stop tears without adding excess weight to active fabric. WICKING: Fabric or yarn’s ability to absorb or draw-in and hold liquid moisture (perspiration) by drawing it into the fibers. : A lustrous plain weave fabric commonly used for linings and . WINDPROOF: Fabric prevents wind from moving through it. Fabrics can be windproof because of tight weave construction, TERRY CLOTH: A fabric with uncut loops on the by topical coating or by lamination of a windproof membrane surface. Typical uses include towels, , and apparel. onto an air-permeable fabric. All waterproof fabrics are also TERRY : A pile weave fabric with an uncut loops on windproof. one side and a cut pile on the reverse side, having a soft, YARN DYED: Color is introduced following yarn spinning onto luxurious hand. Commonly used for toweling and fabrics greige (unfinished, “natural”) yarn before the fabric is knit TWILL WEAVE: A basic weave in which the fabrics are or woven. constructed by interlacing warp and filling yarns to create a diagonal effect on the face of the fabric. WOVEN: Fabric formed with two sets of yarns which are Garment Terms interlaced together on a . Yarns in the length direction BUNGEE : An elasticized rubber cord used to fasten or are called “ends” or “warp”; yarns in the width direction are cinch the garment around a body part. called “picks” or “weft”. Changing the interlacing will produce -DOWN : collar with pointed ends a variety of weave constructions, such as plain weave, twill, fastened to shirt by small . , jacquard, etc. BYRON COLLAR: Pointed collar with no band. Convertible Collar: A rolled collar (sewn directly to the & Finishing Terms ), designed to be worn either fastened as a stand-up ANTI-MICROBIAL FINISH: Topical chemical treatment to safely collar or unfastened as a lay-down collar. prevent and control growth of microorganisms. Treatment will EYELET: A small hole or perforation, usually rimmed with metal also inhibit odor development caused by biological growth on or edged with embroidered stitches, used for ventilation or to textiles exposed to perspiration, especially on synthetic fabrics. insert a cord/ through the opening. Anti-: A garment’s resistance to abrasion caused from FUSED COLLAR/ / : Made with an wear, preventing fibers from twisting together and forming as a foundation fabric with adhesive making it easier to iron or little balls on the fabric surface. wrinkle-free. DURABLE WATER REPELLENT (DWR): Water repellent fabric which : A small ring or stud (metal or plastic) used to will maintain its repellency characteristics after multiple launderings. reinforce an eyelet or a stitch. Many Vantage and windshirts have DWR finish. : A fabric insert, as in the of a garment, for added GARMENT DYED: Color is introduced onto finished garments, strength or expansion; often triangular in shape.

rev 02/08 Apparel Glossary of Terms

Garment Terms (cont.) COMPLIANCE: The state of meeting prescribed specifications,

contract terms, regulations or standards. s m r e t f o y r a s s o l g HIDDEN-BUTTON COLLAR: Shirt collar with pointed ends fastened CONTINUOUS IMPROVEMENT (CI): to shirt by small buttons to a hidden loop on the underside of A philosophy for analyzing the collar points. capabilities and processes and improving them repeatedly to achieve the objective of customer satisfaction. JOHNNY COLLAR: A small collar over a ribbed v-neck. CORRECTIVE ACTION: Implementation of solutions resulting MOCK TURTLE: Separate reduced height band collar, single in the reduction or elimination of an identified problem. ply, that fits close to the neck. CROCKING: The transfer of color from the surface of colored NOTCHED : A tailored collar which has an indentation textile materials to other surfaces by rubbing. or “notch” cut out where the lapel joins the collar. DEFECT/DEFECTIVE: Non-fulfillment of an intended requirement PLACKET: Slit at neck, wrist in shirt/, or front of pants/ or reasonable expectation for use; a unit that contains one or to facilitate taking garments on and off. Fastened by more defects with respect to the quality characteristic(s) under button, zippers, etc. consideration. SPREAD COLLAR: Shirt collar with a wide division between DRYCLEANING: The cleaning of textile products with organic points in front. solvents instead of water. STAND-UP COLLAR (Banded): Collar extending higher on the FABRIC STRENGTH: The maximum force applied to a fabric neck . May also be turned down in either front or back, to form brought to rupture, known as breaking or tensile strength of two distinct types of collars. woven fabrics, or burst strength of knit fabrics. TURTLENECK COLLAR: High band collar, usually knitted, that INSPECTION: Measuring and examining one or more fits very close to the neck and rolls over. characteristics of a product or service and comparing the results VENT: A slit in a garment which allows room for movement, as with specified requirements to determine conformity. in the sides of a polo or the back seam opening of a . ISO 9000 STANDARDS: A set of international standards on : Portion of garment across shoulders in front or back, quality management and quality assurance developed to usually a separate piece seamed across front and back effectively document the system elements to be implemented sometimes lined. to maintain an efficient quality system. LAB DIP: Dyeswatch prepared in laboratory to establish Quality Assurance Terms formulation and standardization of a textile shade. LIGHTBOX: Standardized viewing area for rating of color match ABRASION: The wearing away of a material by rubbing against under variable light bulb conditions. another surface. Color abrasion of textiles is measured by METAMERIC COLOR MATCH: A colored product which maintains Colorfastness to Crocking test. its same color appearance under variable light conditions. ABSORBENCY/ABSORPTION: The propensity of a material to PERFORMANCE STANDARD: The metric against which a take in and retain liquid. product or action is compared. ACCEPTABLE QUALITY LEVEL (AQL): In a series of lots, a quality PREVENTIVE ACTION: Action taken to remove or improve a level that sets the limit of defects allowable in a sampling for process to prevent potential future non-conformance. the lot to be acceptable. The smaller the AQL number, the fewer defectives allowed per sample size. Vantage inspects QUALITY: The characteristics of a product or service to at AQL 2.5, considerable stricter than the general apparel satisfy stated or implied needs; a product or service free of industry standard of AQL 4.0. deficiencies. BARRé: An unintentional, repetitive visual pattern of bars and/ QUALITY ASSURANCE: The planned and systematic activities or stripes usually in the width direction of a fabric. in a quality system to provide confidence a product will fulfill requirements for quality. CARE INSTRUCTIONS: A series of directions describing which care practices should refurbish a product without adverse QUALITY CONTROL: The operational techniques and activities effects and warning against practices expected to be harmful. used to fulfill requirements for quality. CAUSE: An identified reason for the presence of a defect or RANDOM SAMPLING: A sampling technique where sample problem. units are selected so that all combinations of units under consideration have an equal chance of being selected as CODE OF CONDUCT: Expectations of behavior. Every Vantage the sample. qualified factory provides signed commitment to responsible manufacturing, ethical and responsible conduct, respect for SAMPLE SIZE: The number of units in a sample. rights of all individuals and for the environment. SHRINKAGE (dimensional change): The change in length COLORFASTNESS: Resistance to fading; a fabric’s ability to retain and/or width dimensions of a garment when subjected to color properties under conditions of laundering, perspiration, specified conditions. light or sun exposure, rubbing or abrasion (crocking), et al. SKEW, SPIRALITY OR TORQUE: A rotation or twisting of fabric COLOR BLEEDING: The loss of color due to improper dyeing or garment panels from the release of latent stresses in knitting or the use of poor quality dyes; causes staining of white or or weaving. light shade fabrics in contact when exposed to water, solvents, SPECIFICATION: A document that states the requirements to chemicals or other liquids. which a product or service must conform. COLOR FADING: The lessening of color intensity due to inferior STANDARD: The metric, specification, or physical product colorfastness properties, dye weakness, exposure to chemicals, sample against which the outputs of a process are compared natural or artificial light, water, chemicals or other agents. and declared acceptable or unacceptable. COMMERCIAL LAUNDERING: Process where textile products WEAR LIFE: The expected useful life of the product under are refurbished in commercial laundering equipment, typically normal use conditions. at higher temperatures, higher pHs and longer cycle times VALUE ADDED: The parts of the process or product that add than used for home laundering. worth from the perspective of the external customer.

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