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1/29/2008

€ Classified by portion of the plant from which they are removed. ƒ Seed : , (coconut), kapok, milkweed ƒ Bast fibers: , , , , , hibiscus ƒ Leaf fibers: abaca, piña, , henequen ƒ Other: Spanish moss, cedar bark, rush, sea grass, Natural Cellulosic Fibers maize, palm €Cellulose: Glucose, percentage, orientation, and length varies by fiber.

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€ Absorbent € Damaged by mineral € Natural seed fiber, picked and ginned. € Good heat conductor acids, resists alkalis € Physical structure € Heat resistant € Resistant to some ƒ Staple fiber (1/2 to 2 inches) insects; damaged by | Upland: 7/8 to 1 1/4 inch € LiliLow resiliency other insects, mold | Long: 1 5/16 to 1 1/2 inch € Lacks loft and mildew | Short: less than 3/4 inch € Good electrical € Flammable conductor € Moderate sunlight € Heavy fibers resistance

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

ƒ Parts: cuticle—wax-like film € Grading and classification by hand or | Primary cell wall: outer skin machine; relates to fiber quality and | Secondary cell wall character. | Lumen: central canal Convolutions: ribbon-like twists; cohesive € Quality dependent on length, strength, ƒ Fineness: Varies with maturity and type. fineness, convolutions, maturity, color, ƒ Color: Creamy white, natural brown, green, etc. absence of trash, and dirt. € Character refers to maturity, smoothness, uniformity, etc.

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€ 99% cellulose (glucose)in finished fabrics; €Aesthetics: Many options (fiber maturity, high degree of polymerization. yarn, fabric, & finish). €Hydroxyl units: React readily with €Durability: Medium strength (30% stronger moisture,,y, dyes, and finishes. when wet); moderate abrasion resistance, low € Sensitive to damage by bleaches and elongation. acids. €Comfort: Absorbent, good heat & electrical € Modifications with chemical finishes conductivity; heavy. ƒ Mercerization ƒ Ammoniation

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€Effect of chemicals: Damaged by acids, €Environmental effects: Oxidized by minimal harm by alkalis; resistant to organic sunlight. solvents. €Environmental impact: Ag-chemicals; € Moderate; low Appearance retention: erosion; water use; dyeing/finishing resiliency; shrinks; sags with use. chemicals; bioengineering. €Care: Washable or dry-cleanable; no special care required, but other components may affect €Identification: Burns like cellulosic fibers; care; store clean and dry. convolutions (microscope).

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€Conventional cotton: Describes cotton €Organic cotton: Produced following state fiber grown & processed by regular mainstream certification standards on land where organic practices. farming practices have been used for at least €Green cotton: Washed with mild three years. natltural-bdbased soap (blh(no bleach or o ther €Transition cotton: Produced on land where chemicals, except possibly dyes). is practiced for less than the €Colored cotton: Naturally colored as it three year minimum. grows.

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

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€Uses: Apparel, furnishings, industrial uses, and exports. € Cotton Incorporated promotes use of cotton.

Cross section of mature cotton fiber.

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€Coir: from husk of coconut € Irregular fibers from stem of the plant; ƒ Stiff, cinnamon brown color; good resistance to process includes retting, scutching, and abrasion, water, and weather; wiry texture hackling; may be cottonized or cut to a ƒ Uses: floor textiles (rugs, doormats, and tile) length similar to that of cotton fiber to €Kapok: from seed of Java kapok or cotton tree facilitate blending with cotton and processing on cotton equipment. ƒ Lightweight, soft, hollow, buoyant, poor aging resistance ƒ Uses: fiberfill in lifejackets, pillows, padding

€Milkweed: fiberfill in comforters, personal flotation devices, and upholstery

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€Structure: Long irregular fiber with ƒ Comfort: High moisture regain; good nodes; tow (short) and line (long). conductor of electricity and heat; heavy fiber. ƒ Care: Similar to cotton, but wrinkling is a €Properties greater problem. ƒ Aesthetics: Irregular appearance to fabric . ƒ Environmental impact: Chemicals and ƒ Durability: Strong, stronger when wet; low water from retting; alternate retting processes being investigated. elongation; stiff fiber; good abrasion resistance, but poor flex abrasion resistance; can be cottonized.

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€Structure: Irregular fiber; long, lustrous, ƒ Uses: Fashion fabrics for apparel and furnishings. and fine; heavier than most cellulosic ƒ Identification: Similar to cotton; microscopic fibers. appearance; greater fiber length. € Properties ƒ Center for American Flax Fiber (CAFF): Goal ƒ AthtiAesthetics: IlIrregular appearance tfbito fabric. is to establish U.S. flax industry using short cottonized flax ƒ Durability: Strong and abrasion resistant; fiber. brittle with low elasticity. ƒ Comfort: Good absorbency, stiff, and rough. ƒ Masters of : Promotes use of linen. ƒ Care: Poor resiliency, elongation can be a problem. €Uses: Imported apparel, furnishings, industrial uses.

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€Hemp: High strength for twine, cord; not € Kenaf: Long fiber; used for twine, pliable or elastic; minor fiber, used in cordage, and other industrial uses. apparel. €Hibiscus: Stronger than jute, it has good €Jute: Weak fiber with pypoor elasticity & fastness when dyyyed with direct dyes. elongation; low sunlight resistance, poor Experimental use in bags, rugs, and colorfastness. Used for bagging, carpet apparel. backing; furnishings, rope, cordage, etc.

Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved.

€ Long, fairly stiff, poor dye affinity, natural €Abaca: Coarse; very long; off-white to colors; cut from plant and fibers split or brown; strong, durable, & flexible; used pulled from the leaf. for rope, cordage, floor mats, table €Piña: Soft, lustrous; white or ivory; and clothing. susceptible to acids and enzymes; used for €Sisal and henequen: Smooth; straight; apparel, furnishings, and industrial goods. yellow; used in better ropes, twines, and brush bristles; used in carpets, custom rugs, and wall coverings.

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€Rush, seagrass, or Cornhusks: Used in furnishings, resistant to dry heat. € Paper yarns in wall coverings for visual interest and texture. € WdWooden s lats & grasses in w idindow treatments. €Wicker furniture: Twisted paper yarns, , seagrass, abaca, and raffia. €Wall panels & wall coverings: Shredded straw, bark, and old telephone books.

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