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Natural Cellulosic Fibers Maize, Palm Fiber €Cellulose: Glucose, Percentage, Orientation, and Length Varies by Fiber

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Natural Cellulosic Fibers Maize, Palm Fiber €Cellulose: Glucose, Percentage, Orientation, and Length Varies by Fiber 1/29/2008 Classified by portion of the plant from which they are removed. Seed fibers: cotton, coir (coconut), kapok, milkweed Bast fibers: flax, hemp, jute, ramie, kenaf, hibiscus Leaf fibers: abaca, piña, sisal, henequen Other: Spanish moss, cedar bark, rush, sea grass, Natural Cellulosic Fibers maize, palm fiber Cellulose: Glucose, percentage, orientation, and length varies by fiber. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Absorbent Damaged by mineral Natural seed fiber, picked and ginned. Good heat conductor acids, resists alkalis Physical structure Heat resistant Resistant to some Staple fiber (1/2 to 2 inches) insects; damaged by | Upland: 7/8 to 1 1/4 inch LiliLow resiliency other insects, mold | Long: 1 5/16 to 1 1/2 inch Lacks loft and mildew | Short: less than 3/4 inch Good electrical Flammable conductor Moderate sunlight Heavy fibers resistance Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Parts: cuticle—wax-like film Grading and classification by hand or | Primary cell wall: outer skin machine; relates to fiber quality and | Secondary cell wall character. | Lumen: central canal Convolutions: ribbon-like twists; cohesive Quality dependent on length, strength, Fineness: Varies with maturity and type. fineness, convolutions, maturity, color, Color: Creamy white, natural brown, green, etc. absence of trash, and dirt. Character refers to maturity, smoothness, uniformity, etc. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. 1 1/29/2008 99% cellulose (glucose)in finished fabrics; Aesthetics: Many options (fiber maturity, high degree of polymerization. yarn, fabric, & finish). Hydroxyl units: React readily with Durability: Medium strength (30% stronger moisture,,y, dyes, and finishes. when wet); moderate abrasion resistance, low Sensitive to damage by bleaches and elongation. acids. Comfort: Absorbent, good heat & electrical Modifications with chemical finishes conductivity; heavy. Mercerization Ammoniation Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Effect of chemicals: Damaged by acids, Environmental effects: Oxidized by minimal harm by alkalis; resistant to organic sunlight. solvents. Environmental impact: Ag-chemicals; Moderate; low Appearance retention: erosion; water use; dyeing/finishing resiliency; shrinks; sags with use. chemicals; bioengineering. Care: Washable or dry-cleanable; no special care required, but other components may affect Identification: Burns like cellulosic fibers; care; store clean and dry. convolutions (microscope). Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Conventional cotton: Describes cotton Organic cotton: Produced following state fiber grown & processed by regular mainstream certification standards on land where organic practices. farming practices have been used for at least Green cotton: Washed with mild three years. natltural-bdbased soap (blh(no bleach or o ther Transition cotton: Produced on land where chemicals, except possibly dyes). organic farming is practiced for less than the Colored cotton: Naturally colored as it three year minimum. grows. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. 2 1/29/2008 Uses: Apparel, furnishings, industrial uses, and exports. Cotton Incorporated promotes use of cotton. Cross section of mature cotton fiber. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Coir: from husk of coconut Irregular fibers from stem of the plant; Stiff, cinnamon brown color; good resistance to process includes retting, scutching, and abrasion, water, and weather; wiry texture hackling; may be cottonized or cut to a Uses: floor textiles (rugs, doormats, and tile) length similar to that of cotton fiber to Kapok: from seed of Java kapok or silk cotton tree facilitate blending with cotton and processing on cotton equipment. Lightweight, soft, hollow, buoyant, poor aging resistance Uses: fiberfill in lifejackets, pillows, padding Milkweed: fiberfill in comforters, personal flotation devices, and upholstery Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Structure: Long irregular fiber with Comfort: High moisture regain; good nodes; tow (short) and line (long). conductor of electricity and heat; heavy fiber. Care: Similar to cotton, but wrinkling is a Properties greater problem. Aesthetics: Irregular appearance to fabric. Environmental impact: Chemicals and Durability: Strong, stronger when wet; low water from retting; alternate retting processes being investigated. elongation; stiff fiber; good abrasion resistance, but poor flex abrasion resistance; can be cottonized. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. 3 1/29/2008 Structure: Irregular fiber; long, lustrous, Uses: Fashion fabrics for apparel and furnishings. and fine; heavier than most cellulosic Identification: Similar to cotton; microscopic fibers. appearance; greater fiber length. Properties Center for American Flax Fiber (CAFF): Goal AthtiAesthetics: IlIrregular appearance tfbito fabric. is to establish U.S. flax industry using short cottonized flax Durability: Strong and abrasion resistant; fiber. brittle with low elasticity. Comfort: Good absorbency, stiff, and rough. Masters of Linen: Promotes use of linen. Care: Poor resiliency, elongation can be a problem. Uses: Imported apparel, furnishings, industrial uses. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Hemp: High strength for twine, cord; not Kenaf: Long fiber; used for twine, pliable or elastic; minor fiber, used in cordage, and other industrial uses. apparel. Hibiscus: Stronger than jute, it has good Jute: Weak fiber with pypoor elasticity & fastness when dyyyed with direct dyes. elongation; low sunlight resistance, poor Experimental use in bags, rugs, and colorfastness. Used for bagging, carpet apparel. backing; furnishings, rope, cordage, etc. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Long, fairly stiff, poor dye affinity, natural Abaca: Coarse; very long; off-white to colors; cut from plant and fibers split or brown; strong, durable, & flexible; used pulled from the leaf. for rope, cordage, floor mats, table linens Piña: Soft, lustrous; white or ivory; and clothing. susceptible to acids and enzymes; used for Sisal and henequen: Smooth; straight; apparel, furnishings, and industrial goods. yellow; used in better ropes, twines, and brush bristles; used in carpets, custom rugs, and wall coverings. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. 4 1/29/2008 Rush, seagrass, or Cornhusks: Used in furnishings, resistant to dry heat. Paper yarns in wall coverings for visual interest and texture. WdWooden s lats & grasses in w idindow treatments. Wicker furniture: Twisted paper yarns, rattan, seagrass, abaca, and raffia. Wall panels & wall coverings: Shredded straw, bark, and old telephone books. Kadolph: Textiles, 10e © 2007 Pearson Education, Upper Saddle River, NJ 07458. All Rights Reserved. 5.
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