© Lonely Planet Publications 331 Fújiàn 福建 Directly facing the island of Taiwan across the Taiwan Strait, the southern province of Fújiàn – famed for its fiendish tangle of tricky dialects – is a lushly mountainous, coastal region of China. Well watered and lashed by epic summer typhoons that sweep along the fertile coastline, the province is also renowned for an outward-looking mentality that has prompted centuries of migration to Malaysia, Singapore, the Philippines and Taiwan, and, FÚJIÀN in more recent years, a more covert movement to Europe and the US. One of China’s most prosperous provinces, Fújiàn’s coastal ports have long traded far and wide, but farmland is scarce and the mountainous interior remained inaccessible until as late as the 1960s, when the communists finally drove roads through the dense jungle. A popular route between Guǎngdōng, Zhèjiāng and Shànghǎi, Fújiàn offers one of the most diverse travel experiences in China. Rising like medieval forts, the astonishing Hakka tǔlóu (roundhouses) of Yǒngdìng County in Fújiàn’s southwest present a totally unique dimension to the China experience. One of China’s most attractive harbour cities and a useful first port of call, Xiàmén is a mandatory highlight along the coast. The hypnotically slow tempo, gorgeous colonial architecture, clean air and meandering, hilly lanes of offshore Gǔlàng Yǔ make the island an ideal place to unwind. The enclave is only a stone’s throw from the Taiwan-claimed island of Jīnmén (Kinmen), once the site of ferocious battles between mainland communists and the Nationalist Party. The province’s rugged mountainous dimension can be explored at Wǔyí Shān in the northwest, where excellent hiking opportunities await. HIGHLIGHTS Overnight in a Hakka tǔlóu (roundhouse) in Yǒngdìng County ( p339 ) and wake up to W©yí Shƒn cock crows Spend the night on the tranquil and charm- ing island of Gǔlàng Yǔ ( p337 ) offshore from Xiàmén Poke around the ancient lanes of Chóngwǔ ( p344 ) and clamber onto its well-preserved city wall QuánzhŸu Chóngw© Y¡ngdìng Wander the backstreets temple-hunting in County Quánzhōu ( p341 ) G©làng Y© Escape to the mountainous scenery of Wǔyí Shān ( p346 ) POPULATION: 35 MILLION 332 FÚJIÀN •• History lonelyplanet.com 0 100 km FÚJIÀN 0 60 miles To Shàngh†i (800km) Guìx¸ Shàngráo Huanggang Mountain Lóngquán To Chángshƒ Línchuƒn (2157m) W‰nzhŸu (320km) P©chéng ZHÈJI„NG W©yí W©yíshƒn Shƒn Guƒngzé 205 JI„NGX¹ Xiàméi SŸngx¸ 104 Shàow© Zhènghé Taimu Fúd¨ng Nángf‰ng Jiànyáng Mountain Fú'ƒn 316 Jiàn'Ÿu Xiáp© Jiànníng Shùnchƒng Jiƒnglè Níngdé Nánpíng G©tián FÚJIÀN FÚJIÀN E A S T Shƒxiàn Min River Nínghuà C H I N A Sƒnmíng FÚZH±U S E A Daiyun Y¡ngtài Ruijin Y¡ng'ƒn Mountain Chánglè Chángt¸ng (1856m) Liánchéng 314 H†itán 206 Ting Pútián Hanjiang River Zhƒngpíng Shanyao Nánrì Qingyuan Wénji† Mountain Shàngháng Lóngyán Huì'ƒn MéizhŸu Kanshi Nán'ƒn Chóngw© Liùlián QuánzhŸu Y¡ngdìng Zhƒngl¨ Húk‰ng TŸng'ƒn Sh‰nhù ZhƒngzhŸu Xiàmén J¸nmén Formosa Strait Méixiàn G©làng Y© (Taiwan) Zhƒngp© GU‡NGD±NG T A I W A N CháozhŸu S O U T H C H I N A S E A DŸngshƒn Shàntóu History commerce in the 15th century, the resource- The coastal region of Fújiàn, known in English fulness of the Fújiàn people proved itself in the as Fukien or Hokkien, has been part of the numbers heading for Taiwan, Singapore, the Chinese empire since the Qin dynasty (221– Philippines, Malaysia and Indonesia. Overseas 207 BC), when it was known as Min. links were forged that continue today, con- Sea trade transformed the region from a tributing much to the modern character of frontier into one of the centres of the Chinese the province. world. During the Song and Yuan dynasties the coastal city of Quánzhōu was one of the Climate main ports of call on the maritime silk route, Fújiàn has a subtropical climate, with hot, which transported not only silk but other tex- humid summers and drizzly, cold winters. tiles, precious stones, porcelain and a host of June through August brings soaring tem- other valuables. The city was home to more peratures and humidity, with torrential rains than 100,000 Arab merchants, missionaries and typhoons common. In the mountainous and travellers. regions, winters can be fiercely cold. The best Despite a decline in the province’s fortunes times to visit are spring (March to May) and after the Ming dynasty restricted maritime autumn (September to October). lonelyplanet.com FÚJIÀN •• Xiàmén 333 Language are at their best, though fickle weather means Because of its isolated topography Fújiàn is rain any time of year. one of the most linguistically diverse prov- inces in China. Locals speak variations of the History Min dialect, which includes Taiwanese. Min Xiàmén was founded around the mid-14th is divided into various subgroups – you can century in the early years of the Ming dyn- expect to hear Southern Min (Mǐnnán Huà) asty, when the city walls were built and the in Xiàmén and Quánzhōu, and Eastern Min town was established as a major seaport and (Dōng Mǐn) in Fúzhōu. Using Mandarin is commercial centre. generally not a problem, but expect a heavy In the 17th century it became a place of southern Chinese accent. refuge for the Ming rulers fleeing the Manchu invaders. Xiàmén and nearby Jīnmén were Getting There & Away bases for the Ming armies who, under the Fújiàn is well connected to the neighbouring command of the pirate-general Koxinga, FÚJIÀN provinces of Guǎngdōng and Jiāngxī by train raised their anti-Manchu battle-cry, ‘resist and coastal highway. Xiàmén and Fúzhōu the Qing and restore the Ming’. have airline connections to most of the coun- The Portuguese arrived in the 16th century, try, including Hong Kong, and Taipei and followed by the British in the 17th century, Kaohsiung in Taiwan. Wǔyí Shān has flight and later by the French and the Dutch, all connections to China’s larger cities, includ- attempting rather unsuccessfully to establish ing Běijīng, Shànghǎi and Hong Kong. The Xiàmén as a trade port. coastal freeway also goes all the way to Hong The port was closed to foreigners in the Kong from Xiàmén. Z-class express trains link 1750s and it was not until the Opium Wars Fúzhōu to Běijīng in a mere 19 hours. that the tide turned. In August 1841 a British naval force of 38 ships carrying artillery and Getting Around soldiers sailed into Xiàmén harbour, forcing Getting around Fújiàn’s coastal areas is a breeze, the port to open. Xiàmén then became one of thanks to the well-maintained coastal highway. the first treaty ports. For exploring the interior, trains are slow but Japanese and Western powers followed more comfortable and safer than travelling by soon after, establishing consulates and mak- bus. Wǔyí Shān is linked to Fúzhōu, Quánzhōu ing Gǔlàng Yǔ a foreign enclave. Xiàmén and Xiàmén by train. If the train is too slow, turned Japanese in 1938 and remained that there are daily flights between Xiàmén, Fúzhōu way until 1945. and Wǔyí Shān. See the Getting There & Away information in the relevant sections of this Orientation chapter for more details. The town of Xiàmén is on the island of the same name. It’s connected to the mainland by a 5km- XIÀMÉN 厦门 long causeway bearing a train line, road and %0592 / pop 592,400 footpath. The most absorbing part of Xiàmén Xiàmén, also known to the West as Amoy, is near the western (waterfront) district, directly ranks as the most attractive city in Fújiàn. opposite the small island of Gǔlàng Yǔ. This Many of its old colonial buildings have been is the old area of town, known for its colonial carefully restored and its clean, well-kept architecture, parks and winding streets. streets and lively waterfront district give it a captivating old-world charm rarely seen in Information Chinese cities. Amoy Magic (www.amoymagic.com) One of the most To visit Xiàmén without staying on the tiny comprehensive websites on Xiàmén. island of Gǔlàng Yǔ, once the old colonial Bank of China (Zhōngguó Yínháng; 6 Zhongshan Lu) roost of Europeans and Japanese, would be Has a 24-hour ATM. to totally miss the point. Gǔlàng Yǔ’s breezy China International Travel Service (CITS; Zhōngguó seaside gardens and delightful architecture Guójì Lǚxíngshè; 335 Hexiang Xilu) There are several are one of Fújiàn’s highlights. offices around town. This branch near Yundang Lake is Xiàmén is unbearably hot and humid in recommended. the summer and slightly cooler in the winter. Hong Kong Bank (HSBC; Huìfēng Yínháng; cnr Xiahe Lu Spring and autumn are when temperatures & Hubin Xilu) Can change money; has a 24-hour ATM. 334 FÚJIÀN •• Xiàmén ὈὈὈ lonelyplanet.com 0 2 km XIÀMÉN & GªLÀNG Yª 0 1 mile To Marco Hubin Xilu 10 ACPolo Hotel B To Life Line D (2km) Hexiang Donglu To Airport Yundang 41 Medical Clinic (8km) Lake 26 (1km) Hubin Nanlu 35 Train Station 1 3 31 Xiahe Lu ὈὈHexiang Xilu Ὀ 5 Lu Lujiang Dao an ZhongshanXilu u Park Wenyuan Xinhua Lu gy 42 Siming on 8 G 11 Lu Beilu a tong 24 D 6 Huy uan Jukou Lu 39 27 Jie Gongyuan ὈὈὈὈὈNanlu ὈὈὈ Lujiang Channel shan Lu Wanshi Zhong Botanic 2 36 Si mi Gardens 2 ng 38 Lu 33 28 Lu Zhenhai Ton FÚJIÀN FÚJIÀN g wen Zhenhai Lu Lu 21 40 ὈὈὈὈὈὈ 1 37 9 25 30 7 32 Siming 12 17 20 4 13 14 Lu 15 Lu Lu 16 yan Fujian Lu hua Huang Nan 23 G©làng Y© 19 ie 34 3 18 u J Daxue Lu w ὈὈὈὈὈὈὈὈYan 22 To Beaches; Huli Shan Fortress (500m); Round Island Wooden 29 Walkway (500m) Life Line Medical Clinic (Mǐfú Zhénsuǒ; %532 with chanting monks and worshippers 3168; 123 Xidi Villa Hubin Beilu; h8am-5pm Mon-Fri, lighting incense.