Romanesque in the Pyrenees Pallars Sobirà

The county of the Pallars Sobirà covers the area, from south to ◊ Church of Santa Maria d’Àneu, in Escalarre ◊ Church of Santa Maria de Ribera de Cardós ◊ Church of Santa Eulàlia d’Alendo ◊ Santa Maria de Gerri de la Sal ◊ Church of Mare de Déu de Bernui north, starting at the Gorge of Collegats up until the village of Alós d’Isil, following the course of the waters of the Noguera Pallaresa The church, with its large dimensions, can be found in the It is considered to be one of the most monumental in the A magical church in the heart of the Pyrenees. Follow the local The most remarkable and outstanding church of the Pallars This Pyrenean legend tells about two shepherds from Bernui River. It is the fourth biggest comarca (roughly, a county or district) outskirts of Esterri d’Àneu. To get there, take the path to comarca, thanks to the medieval bell tower standing at the road in Tírvia to Burg and Farrera; after another 7 km you will get Sobirà. What remains of the old Benedictine abbey is the Roma- who were walking through the lands of the neighbouring in Catalonia and it has one of the lowest population densities of the Escalarre and, only 800m away, there will be the crossing of side of the church. The rather large size of the church and the to Farrera, go through the village and continue along the main nesque church of the twelfth century, with a basilica plan featu- village, Seurí, when they found the Virgin. Both villages country, with its 7.400 inhabitants; 4 people per km2. In this comarca Santa Maria. Continue for another 900m and you will see changes it has undergone, in particular during the eighteenth road towards Alendo. The church stands on a serrat, a lower but ring three naves and three apses, an atrium with three attached claimed the image and since there was no agreement we fi nd the biggest lake of the Pyrenees, Certascan, and the highest the temple on the right. The church has a structure of an century, have given the temple a special light, not very usual protruding part of the range of mountains. The semicircular nave structures that shelter the door at the eastern end; also, there is reached, they decided to leave it in the hands of fate, or the peak in Catalonia, la Pica d’Estats, with an altitude of 3,143 m. only nave, covered in wood, on pointed in Romanesque churches. In 2001, in an agreement reached in and apse have a pointed chancel arch, with external supporting a bell-gable with three different fl oors. Most of the alterations will of the Virgin. They threw a càntir, a clay container for Most of the area in the Pallars Sobirà is protected. There are several arches. It is also probable that the church a plenary session by the administrative organisation of Consell buttresses. At the union between the nave and the apse, on the have been in its external features, where the most remarkable water, down the slope of the mountain. It was agreed that if zones including the PEIN (Natural Interest Landscape Plan of was part of a monastic complex, the most Comarcal del Pallars Sobirà, the building was considered to be outside, there is a bell-gable. On the southern façade, where ones have been the atrium and the accessing portal, apart from it remained unbroken, the image of the Virgin would be for Catalonia), the Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici National relevant in the valleys of Àneu. a Cultural Heritage of Local the round-arched door is, the remains of a porch or arcade can the decoration of the apses and the the people of Bernui, who trusted in her blindly; if the càntir Park, the Alt Pirineu Natural Park, the Partial Natural Reserve of Interest. be seen. There are two double-thick bell-gable. broke, the people from Seurí would keep the image. Noguera Pallaresa-Collegats, vast extensions of the Natura 2000 windows at the apse. The miracle was when the clay container did not break as Network, the National Hunting Reserve of Boumort... Bell tower: The most Atrium: It consists of three parts, or proof of the will of the Virgin who wished to remain with In terms of history, the first settlement in the Pallars goes back remarkable feature of the bodies, with columns and sculpted those who most believed in her. into prehistory, from which period there are many testimonies and church. Crowned with capitals on the external walls and on In the church, the most recent discovery can be seen: some remains, specially the megalithic monuments. defensive elements, merlons, the portal walls. The portal to access Baroque paintings which have been kept hidden under a layer The presence of Romans seems, at fi rst, to not have been it divides its four sections the church is framed by a round arch, of white paint. The process of restoration has brought to light very intense, as a contrast to that in the Val d’Aran. However, with friezes in saw-toothed with three decreasing archivolts, those in better conditions, the circular motifs in relief on the the most recent archaeological fi nds in the Pallars are patterns. which show sculpted decoration on ceiling. starting to indicate quite the opposite. the capitals of the columns at the Later, in the medieval times and after the dismantling of door. Of the exterior apse, there are the Roman world, the high mountain communities were only visible a lateral apse and a part responsible for the exploitation of the natural resources. of the central one, both with deco- After the conquest and reign of the counts of Toulouse, the rated series of arches and a saw- House of Pallars started its dominion, which would end up being toothed frieze supported by columns the longest in time in all the Catalan counties and which fi nished at the central apse. in 1487 with the loss of the castle of València d’Àneu and the end of Hug Roger III’s power. The general crisis of the feudalism had its Interior: It is the most interesting continuity into the Modern Age and in the transformation of the part, where we can see the structure Pallaresan County into a marquisate with the House of Cardona. Central apse: Lombard of a barrel vault and some transver- At the same time of this nobility authority of a marquisate, several in decoration with arches sal, toral arches supported by pillars dominions existed too, but they composed a royal, superior structure, between the lesenes (pilaster with columns and sculpted capitals. known as sotsvegueria of Pallars, which would be substituted by the strips), and three double- corregiment de Talarn in the eighteenth century. thick windows. Apse: The central apse has an arcade From the end of the eighteenth century until 1870 there was a supported by seven columns. There growth in the population which reached then the highest moment in are up to thirty capitals to be seen, As you walk down to the village, the demographic development: 20,348 inhabitants in 1860. twenty of which have human motifs fi rst house in sight is named Casa From 1870 and until 1910 there is a serious crisis on the subsistence and vegetation sculpted on them. Alegre, one of the «cases fortes», economy, which was prevailing until that moment, at the same strong or powerful houses of the time that a dramatic decline in the economy and population takes valley, which still has the circular place, also caused by the civil confi scation under Madoz, Minister of balcony from where the priest used Finance, as well as the bad weather conditions and the outburst of to read the sermon on the village the phylloxera pest in vineyards, among others. From 1910 until 1960, festival and on Corpus Christi. as a consequence of the improvements in communication and the building of the fi rst hydroelectric power stations, there is a period of modernization, unfortunately interrupted by the Civil War and its aftermath. From 1960 until 1980 the county experiences a second crisis caused by the mechanization of work in the country and the Rose window: Its industrialization of cities. Cities will become an alluring opportunity geometrical decoration for Pallaresan people, a fact that will lead to a new demographic Paintings: Attributed to the workshop of the painter Master shows two enclosing arches. decline to the point of having only half of the population (5,247 of Pedret. In the upper part, there is a representation of the A series of triangles in inhabitants) remaining in the comarca. Epiphany with Her Highness Maria. Among other scenes and cha- relief encircle the external . racters, in the lower part there are two seraphs, with their three perimeter. Tourist Offices pairs of wings each, and the prophets Isaiah and Ezekiel. Pallars Sobirà Tourist Office Camí de la Cabanera, s/n. 25560 Sort Tel. 973 621 002. www.pallarssobira.info Plan: The structure possibly follows the Esterri d’Àneu Municipal Tourist Office forms of the fi fte- C. Major, 40 bis. 25594 Esterri d’Àneu enth century and, Tel. 973 626 345. www.vallsdaneu.org according to some Apse chapel: Lombard Baix Pallars Tourist Office authors, the original ornamentation and arcading, Baix Pallars Town Council. Gerri de la Sal was a basilical plan with a double-thick window Tel. 973 662 040. http://baixpallars.ddl.net with three naves. in pumice stone. Tavascan Tourist Office Carretera de Tavascan, s/n. Tavascan 1. A walk around the church of Mare de Déu de les Neus 2. From village to village crossing the Medieval Bridges 3. After the footprints of the Romanesque 4. The route of Pla de Corts 5. Around the Valley of Àssua and the Old Path in Surp Tel. 973 623 079. www.tavascan.info

Llavorsí Tourist Office Itinerary: Borén - Mare de Déu de les Neus - bordes d’Àrreu - Itinerary: Ribera de Cardós - Cassibrós - Ainet de Cardós - Arrós Itinerary: Llavorsí - Montesclado - Mallolís - Alendo - Itinerary: Peramea - Cortscastell - Montcortès - Itinerary: Rialp - Surp - Escàs - Sorre - Llessui - Bernui - Carretera de Cardós, s/n. Llavorsí Àrreu - Borén de Cardós - Bridge of Lladrós - Lladorre Farrera - Glorieta - Tírvia - Llavorsí Bretui - Masia d’Enjaume - Peramea Seurí - Altron - Rialp Tel. 973 622 217. http://llavorsi.ddl.net Duration: 1 hour 30 minutes Duration: 2 hours 30 minutes Duration: 5 hours Duration: 3 hours 30 minutes Duration: 6 hours Gradient: 400 m Gradient: 100 m Gradient: 500 m Gradient: 200 m Gradient: 700 m València d’Àneu Tourist Office Distance: 3,700 km Distance: 8,800 km Distance: 16,700 km Distance: 10,300 km Distance: 10,300 km Avda. Port de la Bonaigua, 9. València d’Àneu Tel. 973 626 038. http://altaneu.ddl.net Of special interest: Bridges in the Of special interest: Access with a vehicle: Vall de Cardós Tourist Office medieval style, Romanesque archi- Romanesque churches, Access with a The itinerary starts Camí Comunidor, s/n. Ribera de Cardós Of special interest: tecture, panoramic views, specifi c panoramic views, specifi c vehicle: Take the in Rialp, cars can Tel. 973 623 239. http://vallscardos.ddl.net Church of Sant Martí typology of village building. typology of village building. local road in Gerri be parked there; Headquarters of the Parc Natural de l’Alt Pirineu de Borén, hermitage Variation: From Arrós de Cardós, de la Sal to get to panoramic views and Carrer de la Riba, 1. Llavorsí of Mare de Déu de les walk up to Esterri de Cardós and Peramea. Park the remarkable examples Tel. 973 622 335. http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat Neus, bordes (summer from there, walk down towards the car in Peramea, at of specifi c typology of dwelling) d’Àrreu, pano- Bridge of Lladrós. 45 minutes must the Plaça de la Font village building. National Park of Aigüestortes i Estany de Sant Maurici ramic views, the village be added to the basic itinerary. (Fountain Square). Carrer de Sant Maurici, 5. Espot of Àrreu. Tel. 973 624 036. http://parcsnaturals.gencat.cat Foto: Roger Gras

Collection of interactive guides The valleys of Àneu and Espot. The only National Park in Catalonia The Valley of Cardós. Water and Romanesque in its purest state

(Available at the Pallars Sobirà Tourist birà Pallars So Pallars O f fi c) e »The valleys of Àneu are a paradigm of nature in themselves, with a clearly marked geographical »In the eleventh century the plenitude that represented the high medieval times identity. These lands have their own historical personality, defined and framed by the watch towers, arrived to the county of the Pallars, with the triumph of the Romanesque, (...) 1. Romanesque churches and hermitages in the medieval town of Escaló, or in the natural vantage point that the castle of València d’Àneu the political and military fights could not stop the drive for organization of represents. These valleys are a natural phenomenon, with its centre right at the heart of the Aigüestortes the government of these lands and allowed for some economic development 2.Frescoes, paintings and carvings on i Estany de Sant Maurici National Park. They offer cultural singularity, human warmth, the touching during the twelfth century, which gave the funds for the construction of wood. Romanesque heritage rusticity of Romanesque churches, with the wooden carvings, the altarpieces, the holy water and oil the Romanesque churches that were built then, some of which were later fonts, the unique simplicity of the stone bridges; the perpetual magic of the summer solstice celebrated substituted for more modern constructions from the seventeenth century 3. Altarpieces with the falles in Isil, the generous fascination onwards. In addition to this natural prosperity, there was another way of of villages with their gleaming slate roofs and income thanks to some special circumstances: the benefits that the Catalan eight sided belfries, even in the authenticity of the counts had from the paeria, the tax paid by Saracens for protection, as well tupines, the traditional ceramic containers collected as the participation in the re-conquest of the new Catalonia, by noblemen or Pic de la France Clavera by the Ecomuseu... The heritage of a patrimony either by individuals born in the Pallars Sobirà working as almogàvers, a kind Tuc dels Tres Comtes that bestows the valleys of Àneu with the highest of of mercenary soldier with service pay and right to the spoils of war; apart from Port d’Aulà honours, the certification of quality.« this, there were other possibilities for wealth such as trading with raw materials, Medieval Villages Montgarri with wool or parchment, for instance«. Rella, Ferran. Descobrir Catalunya. Fortifi ed medieval village of Escaló No. 35, September 2000 (page. 57). Amics de l’art romànic, Les esglésies romàniques de la Vall de Cardós. Barcelona, IEC, 2007 (page 33). Fortifi ed medieval village of Peramea Fortifi ed medieval village of Rialp Val d’Aran Fortifi ed medieval village of Vilamur Pic de Montarenyo

Cap de Marimanya Estany de la Mariola Tuc del Cap de l’Estany Estany Gerosso Blanc Pic dels Tres Comtes The Mid Pallars. Where the river becomes adventure Bridges in the Medieval Style Pic de Moedo Pic de Marterat Refugi de Tuc de Bonabè Certascan Estany de la Gallina Estany del Port Montroig E. de Seno »The Noguera Pallaresa River is the soul of the Pallars Sobirà, and Alós Àrreu Estany d’Airoto Alós E. de Romedo de Dalt s Estany de Llavera Estany de Certascan ila P El més gran dels Pirineusa from time immemorial, it became the essential axis for transpor-

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ó Ainet de Besan d Pic de la Bassera Estaron s e Church of Mare de Déu de Bernui Pic de Mainera Estany Mainera Araós B aixed you: a fountain, a pond, an irrigation canal, a Church of Sant Martí (Escalarre) ca Lleida s Aidí Bordes ravine, a stream... (...) Under the solemn and a Barcelona i a de Virós Madrid Church of Santa Maria d’Àneu (Escalarre) B Estació d’esquí B Tírvia a de welcoming presence of the Montsent, I can r R. Glorieta de Pic de Salòria ra Refugi de Virós Church of Sant Pau (Esterri de Cardós) n Arestui Montesclado Montorroio c Baiasca Gall Fer assure you that the valley of Àssua represents d Vall Ferrera

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Sant Sebastià i g Mallolís u surprises, the fond memory of a home that Montsent u Vitòria d e Pamplona Perpinyà Church of Sant Pere del Burgal (Escaló) e Alendo Os de Civís Logronyo St you will miss when you are far away» Osca SORT . Church of Sant Llorenç (Isavarre) A Girona n Lleida to Saragossa Church of Sant Joan (Isil) ni Sant Romà de Tavèrnoles Barcelona Barbal, Maria. La Vall d’Àssua (pròleg). Tarragona Church of Santa Maria (Ribera de Cardós) La Vall Fosca Caregue Madrid Editorial Piolet, 2000 (page 7). Castelló Church of Sant Just and Sant Pastor (Son) Llessui Escàs Rodés Pui d’Urdosa Surp Roní València Church of Sant Pere (Sorpe) Sorre Church of Sant Iscle and Santa Victòria (Surp) Montenartró Romadriu Alacant Saurí Altron Beraní Rialp rrad adriu Church of Sant Pere (Tor) Bernui El Se o om . R muns E Church of Sant Andreu (València d’Àneu) Tres Co The route of the Baix Pallars. The richness of salt Olp dels nya nta reu Mu a C Church of Mare de Déu de Medina (Vilamur) La Bastida e l a d Castellviny et »And the Almighty said: “Let there be light”. And the light divided from the darkness. Tuc de la Cometa Pernui Pl Sant Joan de l’Erm Vell B rrat de S . Se ant Fe Se de liu It was then that Adam and Eve realised they were in the Pallars. They crossed the pass rra M Pujalt Estació d’esquí Monasteries d e on Sort t reta de Port Ainé la a aTor of Collegats, skirted around the Gorge of Hell, dived in front of l’Argenteria and walked S rd L Tossal de Sant Quiri o it Enviny Estació d’esquí la Pic de l’Orri n Bressui happily towards Gerri de la Sal. They fi shed some trout with their own hands under Remains of Sant Pere del Burgal (Escaló) a Llarvén de Sant Joan Embonui the Romanesque bridge and settled down in the square of el Mercadal. They took Remains of Santa Maria de Gerri (Gerri de la Sal) Montardit de Dalt Refugi de l’Erm Saverneda Comes de Rubió shelter in the Alfolí, the salt warehouse; they salted the trout and ate them. From Ancs Estac Original Frescoes Poblat medieval the warehouse they contemplated how the airy bell gable of the Monastery of Santa Vilamur de Santa Creu Rubió Mencui Montardit Maria –a majestic example of the Romanesque of the eleventh century, and one of the El Cogullo de Baix Escós Tornafort ort del Can a la Seu d’Urgell jewels of the Benedictine monks– painted its refl ection in the vast sea of the salt lakes. Church of Sant Serni (Baiasca) P tó Puiforniu Refugi a Andorra Baro Malmercat Llagunes The villagers, fi erce Pallaresan people, welcomed them with local Soriguera Vall detó Siarb Ri an a la Pobleta u del C products: the best artisan salt of the world, the cured sausages, Pallars Sobirà Tourism Reproductions of Frescoes Freixe de Bellveí Sellui Arcalís Pui d’Adrall named xolís, secallona, and girella, the cheese made from cow’s, Camí de la Cabanera, s/n. 25560 SORT Church of Santa Maria d’Àneu (Escalarre) Balestui Verge L’Altar de les Bruixes goat’s or sheep’s milk and the sweet nectar of the liquor called d’Arboló Tel. (034) 973 621 002. Fax: (034) 973 621 003 Cabestany Bretui retasia. In the evening, Adam and Eve, full of gratitude, Church of Sant Pere del Burgal (Escaló) El Comte Montcortès Peramea Baén El Soi walked to the hermitage of Arboló, built in the twelfth www.pallarssobira.info Church of Santa Maria (Ginestarre) Mentui Sant Sebastià de Buseu Alt Urgell Estany càrstic B. d Church of Sant Pau and Sant Pere (Esterri de Cardós) e M Enseu century, as a space for pilgrimage and votive offerings... After http://senders.pallarssobira.cat de Montcortès or Vilesa Castellnou de Sarroca Se re Gerri de la Sal r Cortscastell res singing the joys of the Madonna, or Mare de Déu, of Arboló, ra Serra M P a El Pui e gd r al Canals a en Bresca Sarroca c a Pujol they took advantage of a rafting boat that was going down a lç Useu Notice: This is only a representative selection of the Ro- Peracalç Puig Menut stream sailing the crystalline waters of the Noguera Pallaresa Tossal Buseu manesque in the comarca (what would correspond to an de Rocs gost de Colle River and returned to the village. English county) of the Pallars Sobirà. For more extensive Con gats L’Espluga Serra de C o When they were expelled from Paradise, they realised how information, there are some further resources available at ube Riu Maj r Solduga res the Pallars Sobirà Tourist Offi ce. Montsor good it had been spending their time in Gerri de la Sal.» Refugi Argenteria Cuberes de Cuberes Carles Canut, actor, and Carlos Pérez de Rozas, journalist, a Tremp Reserva Nacional de Caça de Boumort descendants of Adam and Eve, brothers-in-law and a Lleida Pic de Matella With the support of: Collaboration: Pic del Pi Sec dwellers of Casa Tatet of Gerri de la Sal. August 2008 Starting point for the recommended routes Pallars Jussà