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Haukur’s 3rd Editorial! Cover Masthead

Lately, I find myself having to wait in line to To make all of our lives easier, I have decided The Reykjavík Grapevine Marketing Director: get into popular bars and clubs – and paying to forego the usual editorial banter and politi- Hafnarstræti 15, 101 Reykjavík Jón Trausti Sigurðarson the full price for drinks once I finally get in cal frustration in lieu of the helpful visual aid www.grapevine.is [email protected] there. I get the feeling a lot of you doormen below. Feel free to cut it out and post it in a [email protected] Sales Director: and bartender types out there don’t realise prominent location of your establishment – Published by Fröken ehf. Aðalsteinn Jörundsson that I am THE EDITOR OF THE REYKJAVÍK this way, we all win. [email protected] GRAPEVINE, and just how awesomely im- Editorial: Guðmundur Rúnar Svansson portant that makes me. +354 540 3600 / [email protected] [email protected] Advertising: Distribution: +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Samúel Bjarnason Publisher: [email protected] +354 540 3601 / [email protected] Proofreader: Jim Rice Publisher: Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson Press releases: [email protected] [email protected] Submissions inquiries: Editor: [email protected] Cover photos by: Haukur S Magnússon Subscription inquiries: Hörður Sveinsson [email protected] +354 540 3605 / [email protected] Contributing Writers: General inquiries: [email protected] On Cover Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson Hjaltalín, Retro Stefson and Ólafur Arnalds [email protected] Founders: Florian Zühlke / [email protected] Hilmar Steinn Grétarsson, Thanks to: Sindri Eldon Hörður Kristbjörnsson, Silfur Bogi Bjarnason Jón Trausti Sigurðarson, Valur Gunnarsson Oddur Óskar Kjartansson, Dr. Gunni Valur Gunnarsson Irina Domurath In Case You Were Wondering Paul Nikolov The Reykjavík Grapevine is published 18 You guys / [email protected] times a year by Fröken ltd. Monthly from No, we haven’t given up on our awesome Editorial Interns: November through April, and fortnightly ‘Monsters and mythical beings’ series. Ragnar Jón Hrólfsson / [email protected] from May til October. Nothing in this Hugleikur Dagsson just suffered a series Richard P. Foley / [email protected] magazine may be reproduced in whole or of nightlife-related injuries this month that in part without the written permission of rendered him unable to illustrate it, so we Art Director: the publishers. The Reykjavík Grapevine decided to just do two next month. And one Hörður Kristbjörnsson is distributed around Reykjavík, Akureyri, of them is Nábuxur (“corpsepants”), so stay [email protected] Egilsstaðir, Selfoss, Keflavík, Ísafjörður and tuned! Design: at key locations along road #1, and all major Jóhannes Kjartansson / [email protected] tourist attractions and tourist information “Mistakes, Photographer: centres in the country. Jóhannes Kjartansson / www.joi.is We Made A Few...” You may not like it, but at least it's not Printed by Landsprent ehf. in 30.000 copies. sponsored. (No articles in the Reykjavík Two to be exact. Both had to do with math. Grapevine are pay-for articles. The opinions Go figure. expressed are the writers’ own, not the advertisers’). -A three course meal at Pisa should actually set you back around 3.000 ISK, rather than our estimated 5.000. Unless you only order the really expensive stuff and lots of drinks.

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BSÍ Bus Terminal / 101 Reykjavík / +354 580 5400 / [email protected] / www.re.is 4 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

LETTERS Sour Grapes And Stuff We Like

Say your piece, voice your opinion, send your letters to [email protected]

After reading your second editorial I felt This morning, when I was drinking my remaining whaling operation carried out like sharing a thought or two about the coffee and eating my breakfast it hit me. by a Southern Hemisphere country was current situation in our countries. So I The reality. I am foreigner. I work as a still active. considered coming to live in Iceland. cleaner lady and get my monthly salary I witnessed the slaughter and pro- See, the view that many of us down from cleaning the toilets of rich Icelan- cessing of Sperm whales, which are there have about Northern European dic people. now endangered. I remember the whal- countries is that they are... better. Their You could argue if they are still ers telling outsiders that it was none of governments work properly (hold on, I'll rich but at least they used to be, until their business. That was 30 years ago come back to that), the bureaucracy is this famous financial crisis. After seeing and the income from such activity was not narrow-minded and idiotic, people thousands of people loosing they jobs I soon replaced, even though there were are respectful and highly civilised, in- started to worry. I was preparing myself few employment opportunities visible frastructures are impeccable, equality is to leave this country because I was think- at the time. People adapted and found achieved by all, rights are respected and ing that now there are going to be all Ice- they were not as tied to whaling as they fought for, etc. Wonderland. I speak as an landic people lining up and wanting my thought. un-informed person, I am sure. I recogn- job. But what happened? I still keep on One thing is for sure and that is ise I am pretty naive and for a second I working my as off and cleaning. Nobody the needs of Icelands people are firmly thought Iceland was a sort of fairie-filled has come to me wanting my job. tied to a healthy planet. Your collective Sigur Ros-singing country were all is well And I keep on paying taxes. What choice to have embraced the damaging and fine. No, okay, I am not that naïve. are these all former bankers and flight and wasteful lifestlyes of the developed One thing gives me hope though. I attendants doing? They still live in their West has now left you very exposed. For quote from your article: "Folks were los- 50 milj. Krona houses. Drive their 6 milj. the world to support you in your time of ing their jobs, losing their homes, rush- Cars and what else? They are getting fi- need, you will have to change and give ing to the streets in protest. And for our nancial support! Living with unemploy- up whaling. It is your choice. noble Alþingi's first day in session after ment support! The very same money their month long Christmas vacation, that I am paying as taxes! There they are Marty Wyness, UK their chose topic of discussion was... the sitting in they fancy sofas and complain- availability of alcohol beverages in gro- ing how poor they are and how they had Dear Marty, cery stores?" I can't help but notice how to get their house loan frozen. They are I hope you don’t take this as hateful familiar this is. Our PM is has rushed a like big fatty bears. Sleeping over the rhetoric, and I sort of agree with you on judiciary reform so he could save his winter. Waiting for the warmer days and the whole whaling issue. It’s un-neces- arse and the ones of his own buddies time they can sell they houses and make sary, and it certainly won’t create lots of from guaranteed jail sentences. He has profit again. jobs. But still, man, why should “being been accused to have paid some guy to easy to love” entitle one species status lie in court for one of his trials but they And I am stupid enough to work and pay over another? Have you looked into can't arrest him because the law he just their food. the mass-farming of cows, chicken and pushed in the Constitution won't let Sour Selma pigs? There’s some seriously uncool them prosecute the four highest politi- stuff going on right in your backyard. cal authorities of the Republic. Oh, and a Dear Selma, Go there. And give up colonialism and law on biological testament. And, uhm, yeah, it’s true. You having to work hard war and stuff while you’re at it, if you a law encouraging doctor to report im- to pay for complaining fatty bear food want our support. migrants without visas. sucks. Sorry about that. Kinda the na- Anything being done about the cri- ture of capitalism, though, isn’t it? sis. No. Well.. a 'Social Card'. It was some Stuff We Liked In February sort of a debit card, topped up with 40 euros every month (mindblowing!) to Hi, I have been following your country's • Café D’Haiti. give disadvantaged people. Needless recent announcement that it will not only to say, the bureaucracy behind was im- continue whaling, but will increase the • The view from our new office. possible to follow. The point is that I feel kill quota. I see this includes Fin whales you Icelanders stilll have hope. By hope I which are considered by the internation- • Going to Norway. mean this: You do truly expect your Gov- al community to be endangered. ernment to do something about the cri- I am glad that your caretaker gov- • The Condé Nast Portfolio profile of sis. You do genuinely get horrfied when ernment has decided to reconsider this Dorrit Moussaieff and her husband. availability of alcoholic beverages in position, but am dismayed that your groceries is being taken care of instead unions are still pushing the slaughter of • ‘All of Them Must Go’ – Naomi Klein’s Reykjavík of something else. And you do believe in these mammals as the part answer to recent column for The Nation. protesting, because why shouldn't you if their members financial problems. it led your administrators to pack their Is anyone in Iceland aware of just • Arnljótur Sigurðsson. Welcome Card bags and leave? In Italy we wouldn't have how against whaling people in other that. I don't expect them to do anything. countries are? Do you have any idea how • Scoring free pylsa every now and again. Enjoy the Thermal Pools, Museums, Wanting and expecting could have never backward and cruel you come across as, been more apart. Of course I want them when two thirds of your people polled • Our February issue. Public Transport and discounts. to fix it, but I simply know they won't. And say that they think it is a good idea to Especially the cover. after screwing things up, I know nobody butcher endangered whales? It is bad will pay, while you get reasonably angry enough that you still conduct whaling • Double latté in a whisky glass at Hressó. because they don't. They do everything without this extra Fin whale issue. else but discuss the crisis, and I am not If the unions think that this will • All of the awesome people that at all surprised. Of course there are pro- help jobs in the long term, then they are contribute to GV. tests, but I know they will stay just where mistaken. Your country will experience they are. So what I am saying is, at least worldwide boycotts and might even be • Singapore Sling, DJ Musician and you should feel a little bit lucky you have barred from joining Europe until you Evil Madness at Grand Rokk. high expectations for your Government, completely give up whaling if you ever and that still equals to fairie land to me. decide to formally apply for member- • Sam Amidon at Kaffibarinn. Because I guarantee you you wouldn't ship. want to live in a country that has never I have personally sent a petition • Alcohol and cigarettes. given you reason to build such high ex- to Brussels to ask that Iceland is barred (c’mon. It’s dark all the time). pectations in the first plac from any future membership until it ceases whaling and MEP's have helped • Trying to figure out why the new Thanks for your time, by tabling the question to be debated by Simpsons suck so bad. 24 / 48 / 72 hour cards - Great Value For Money Valentina the commission in 6 weeks time. I have taken such strong measures • Composer Steve Reich. Sold at the Centre and most Reykjavík hotels. Dear Valentina, not because i dislike Icelandic people, you make some good points. Speak- on the contrary, but because if this world • The Northern Wave film festival. ing of political apathy, I am actually cannot look after the creatures that are quite apathetic here, as are most of my easy to love, what hope is there for the • The revamped Já.is. friends. We don't really expect our gov- rest of our ecosystem and the health of ernment to be able to take care of any- mankind? • The hot tub at Sundhöll Reykjavíkur. thing, to tell you the truth, but we'll be If you publish this letter, there will damned if we allow them an existence be a rush of hateful rhetoric, calling me • Sökudólgarnir at Rósenberg. as incompetent fuck-ups without letting a meddling outsider who knows nothing Rósenberg in general. them know our feelings. of the needs of Icelands people. This may be true, but as a young man, I worked in Like what we like? 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HISTORY LESSON Interview BY Irina Domurath — PHOTO BY Jói kjartans

BY DR. GUNNI

Iceland 1956. Only few years have passed since Icelanders lived in mud huts and died young. The- Second World War had made (some of) us rich and the modern ways were slowly creeping in. Brit- ish, and then the much hipper American soldiers, had brought chewing gum and Forties pop music. Youngsters, being only used to old time psalmody The Immediate Future Looks Pretty Grim and Icelandic country songs, got hip to listening to jazz and pop around the soldiers’ barracks. Cue in pop singer Haukur Morthens who had a weekly radio show at the only radio station (The state radio – Rás 1). One day a foresighted steward- Economist Gylfi Magnússon Why not? end up similar to the ones in the Western European ess brought him “Heartbreak Hotel” by Elvis and warned against the dangers of the On the surface everything looked extremely rosy. countries, maybe 50-60% of the GDP, even if we asked him to play it. “It sounded unworldly and Icelandic economy before the cri- The banks were growing rapidly, generating huge don’t paint a very rosy picture. Also, our weak cur- profits. They were hiring people left and right on rency, even though it contributed to the downfall crass. So much beat and volubility. Today it sounds sis. He mans the post of Minister of just easy and cosy,” commented Morthens, thirteen very high salaries. The stock market was booming. and the big problems, can help to Icelanders re- years later in 1969. The kids liked what they heard, Business Affairs, courtesy of Ice- The real estate market was booming. But the banks cover through exports quicker than countries that but legend has it that in Höfn a farmer had a heart land’s new minority government. were relying to an ever-increasing degree on hor- have a strong, stable currency. attack when Elvis sounded on the radio. He also is a Professor of Econom- rendous borrowing. There was a real danger that Iceland got its share of the international rock ics at the University of Iceland, if there was some disruption in the flow of foreign Do you think that other countries might face and roll craze. The Icelandic kids went gaga over capital, we could have a very rapid negative spiral the danger of bankruptcy in the course of and holds a Ph.D. from Yale and a the flaming hot new music, just like kids every- where the asset prices could fall and the Króna the worldwide economic crisis, countries like where. More and more rock music got played on Master’s degree in Philosophy. could depreciate. Which unfortunately is exactly Greece, Portugal or Ireland? the only radio station, much to the dislike of many. what happened. I certainly hope not. And what is strikingly different “This filthy American noise will spoil the youth”, “There were a lot of mistakes made and warning in these countries is the fact that they don’t have a said the cultural elite, adding, “Thankfully rock signs ignored,” he says. “The debts will rise and Do you think that the banks should have had small floating currency like we have, and they have music is just a bubble that will burst soon enough.” the banks’ size need to be controlled, but Iceland the obligation to advise Icelandic customers the backup of EU Central Bank and maybe even of Early American rock films were shown in the- has the resources to surmount the problems.” not to take foreign currency loans? their fellow governments within the EU. atres and the first rock combo played in Reykjavik They should have done that. Instead, they adver- in 1957, Tony Crombie & and his Rockets, a British How do you explain to the people that they tised risky behaviour and risky products. And it’s Your predecessor said that he regretted not former jazzist who had jumped on the rock band- have to pay the banks’ foreign debts? quite clear that when a banker tells a customer, having pushed Iceland more towards EU-mem- wagon to make some quick cash. The band put on First of all, with regard to Kaupthing Edge in Ger- without any foreign currency earnings, to make a bership. Do you think EU-membership would a convincing rock show night after night, playing many, I have been told that it seems almost certain huge bet on the Icelandic Króna by taking a foreign have prevented or reduced the consequences altogether for around ten thousand Icelanders. that there are sufficient assets within the bank to loan, the current exchange rate fluctuations can of the crisis for Iceland? Sometimes the police were brought in to calm pay off depositors. There is a much bigger prob- make the customer bankrupt overnight. But one It would not have prevented a crisis but it would down rock crazy teens. lem with Landsbanki’s Icesave accounts in the more reason why people were taking foreign loans have made the dynamics different, especially when Icelandic musicians, most of them being jazz U.K. and the Netherlands. It seems inevitable that was the high interest rates in Iceland. This was a it comes to debts and the loans and the crushing snobs, didn’t like this new thing at all. “This is crap when all accounts have been settled, some part of policy mistake by the Icelandic Central Bank. exchange rates. But I doubt that Iceland as a EU- music, if you can call it music”, they said, all the these Icelandic debts will be paid by the Icelandic member with the Euro would have escaped the while forced to play “the crap” because the kids government and then, of course, by the Icelandic How highly is Iceland in debt now? financial crisis, if nothing else had changed. and the young audience liked it so much and asked taxpayers. This is complicated. The government will take for it at the dancehalls. on sizable debts as part of the IMF program, the Are you in favour of EU-membership? The record industry’s initial attempts with Are the Icelandic banks doomed to remain do- settlement of the Icesave deposits and also some I am in favour of finding out what it would entail. rock fumbled at best. Pop singers were given slight- mestic because Iceland is such a small country domestic debts due to the refinancing of the bank- Most economists claim that having its own floating ly “rock-ish” songs to sing; sometimes the only indi- and the banks shouldn’t exceed the GDP? ing sector. We will have a sizable budget deficit this currency, without any ties to another currency, is cation of them being of the genre was that the word You can say that for now. The banks over-extended year and next year as well. That said, the gross debt not a viable long-run option for Iceland. We should “rock” was mentioned in the song. Skapti Ólafsson very dramatically. Our main concern now is to get will be somewhere around one year’s GDP, which start negotiating with the full intention of entering was the first to nail the new thing. He sang six rock the New Banks fully functional in order to be able means that the situation here is somewhat worse but of course not decide to enter until we know songs on records that sounded pretty convincing to serve the domestic economy. Basically, all their than the situation in Belgium or Italy before the what the framework would look like. Icelandic ne- between 1957 and 1958. The most famous song was foreign operations have either been seized or are worldwide financial crisis. gotiators would presumably call for some sort of “Allt á floti” – an Icelandicized version of “Water wa- waiting to be sold off. At some point their finances exemption or special treatment with regard to the ter” by Tommy Steele (Britain’s first rock n roller). and reputation may recover, and then they may How is Iceland supposed to pay these debts fishing industry. A deal where we lose all sovereign- The song was banned from the radio, presumably be able to expand a little bit abroad but that won’t considering the depression, companies going ty over the fishing rights would never be politically because radio personnel thought it included sexu- happen in the immediate future. We have to do bankrupt, consumption decreasing and inter- viable. Iceland already has almost all other benefits al messages. This was the best publicity possible everything that it is needed for the domestic busi- est piling up? of EU-membership through the EEA: labour mobil- and the single sold like a motherfucker. Eventually ness and will not spend resources on expansion. It’s certainly going to be tough. I don’t want to say ity, freedom of investment, re-trade etc.. So it really Skapti was to buy a refrigerator for the income. The Icelandic government has to set up a regula- a year or two, because it will take longer than that, boils down to the fishing rights. But I think that a tory framework to make sure that nothing similar to but the immediate future looks pretty grim be- reasonable plan of entering and adopting the Euro By Dr. Gunni, based on his 2000 book Eru ekki allir what happened in the recent past will be repeated. cause of all those factors and with government tax would be very helpful to bringing financial stability í stuði? (Rock in Iceland). A revised edition of the Obviously a number of things went wrong in Ice- receipts falling at the same time. Demands towards to Iceland. book is forthcoming in 2010. land. There were some bad decisions made by the the government, like unemployment benefits, are bankers and the owners of the banks, but there was also rising. But we have to keep in mind that the cri- also regulatory failure. sis doesn’t destroy real assets. We still have a very well educated, hard-working, flexible labour force. The debts will rise and the banks’ In what way? We have infrastructure and natural resources. We size need to be controlled, but In many ways. Our regulatory framework puts very can use these real assets to regenerate goods and little limits on how large the banks could become services, including export. And the government is Iceland has the resources to and there were no serious attempts made to try getting a lot of assets as well. For example, it now surmount the problems. to reduce their growth. There was domestic and owns the banks and even if they won’t be sold they foreign criticism before the banks collapsed. But should become healthy companies that provide those voices were not listened to. revenues. So, the government’s net debt should REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009 | 7 HÚSIÐ / SÍA A HVÍT

A symphony for the eye, nourishment for the mind and inspiration for the future; The Nordic House, Iceland, is proud to announce that from 19.03-05.04 2009 we will be hosting the Nordic Fashion Biennale. This is the first time an event like this is being held and this year we are focusing on fashion and jewelry from the west-Nordic countries: Faroe Islands, Greenland and Iceland.

The highlight of Nordic Fashion Biennale is the DesignMarch, when the Nordic House will be filled with Icelandic fashion design, showrooms and parties.

The Nordic Fashion Biennale website is now open and will be updated regularly with media material as well as information about the event and speakers. Visit us at: www.nordicfashionbiennale.com 8 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

Good morning, Norway! GRAPEVINE EXPOSES SORDID ‘MUSIC TRIP’ TO ‘SCANDINAVIA’S SODOM’

fortnight ago, the Grapevine hitched a ride with cover BY HAUKUR S MAGNÚSSON - PHOTOS BY HAX formance. Already a fiercely ambitious, disciplined and inven- A stars Retro Stefson, Ólafur Arnalds and Hjaltalín as they tive musician at the tender age of 19, Unnsteinn is very clearly made their way to Oslo, Norway. Their mission: to perform headed for big things. As are the rest of them, for that matter. “I at the annual by:Larm Nordic showcase festival and charm think this was a good one,” he says all thoughtful to no one in the socks off Scandinavian booking agents, talent buyers and particular. “We really got into the groove... yeah, it was good.” journalists. Our mission: to document the acts and their trip And he is happy. as best we could while spending as little money as possible in Retro Stefson is a tight-knit group of friends and seem very the most expensive city on earth. comfortable around one another. The core group has been The bands accomplished their task, and then some. And together since forming in 2005, when the members were aged we failed miserably and raised our overdraft, along with our 13 to15. They quickly gained a reputation through their MyS- glasses. (Here is a sound piece of advice: If you ever find your- pace and playing shows pretty much anywhere that would self in Norway’s capital post-your nation’s total economic col- host them. Their 2008 debut has received many an accolade lapse, do not under any circumstances offer to get the next and considerable radio play; right now the world seems to lie round in. In fact, quit drinking altogether and try to bring at their feet. along bring canned goods for sustenance. Even breathing Back to MONO: the mood backstage is more reminiscent seems expensive and wasteful in Oslo). of a summer camp all-nighter than any debaucherous display of rock and roll I can recall – more Mickey Mouse than Möt- Hung-over from the night before, Hjaltalín confusedly ley Crüe. The kids entertain themselves with games of rock- mistook this storefront for their venue. paper-scissors and the trading of inside jokes; they clearly didn’t come to Oslo to party, although they are having fun. “We came here to play,” Unnsteinn tells me. “It’s a relief to be No strangers to hit songs, Hjaltalín’s début, Sleepdrunk done with the shows, but it’s also kind of a bummer. I would Seasons, received heavy rotation on Iceland’s radio sta- have enjoyed doing one more.” His younger brother, cool as tions upon its 2007 release. Their heartfelt cover of Páll ice 17 year old bassist Logi Pedró, nods his head in agreement. Óskar song ‘Þú komst við hjartað í mér’, released last June, They should not fret, however, as the reception they received subsequently cemented the band’s status as Iceland’s hot at the festival seems to guarantee Retro Stefson will be playing young things. Simply put, it was THE popular song of 2008, quite a few shows in Norway real soon. We get up and make and was awarded official status as such at the recent Ice- our way out to the snowy streets of Oslo, as Ólafur Arnalds’ landic Music Awards. And true to the bassist’s belief, sing- first by:Larm show is about to commence. er Högni was to explain the Icelandic lyrics (that revolve During our walk, the subject of the weekend’s sched- Hjaltalín arrive safely in Norway. They still complained alot, around finding true, life-changing love) at a length each uled by:Larm shows comes up and it’s clear the band have being the primadonnas they are. time they played the song in Norway. The strategy seemed researched the festival’s programme heavily. A plan is laid out to work, as the Norwegian audience seemed deeply en- for the next couple of days, one that entails taking in Ólafur’s gaged in their performance, many of them choosing to show as well as sets by Lindström, Whitest Boy Alive, Betasa- What makes a hit take it in with their eyes closed and mouths open. tan and many, many others. by:Larm is an exceptional music It’s Friday morning, 1 AM, and most of Hjaltalín are busy mix- festival that somehow manages to remain relevant and excit- ing drinks in their hotel room. Earlier that night, the band per- ing while featuring Nordic acts exclusively – no mean feat. formed a triumphant set at a packed venue in downtown Oslo, Neither special nor unique Music lovers that they are, Retro Stefson are intent on getting after a long trip over from Switzerland where they reportedly “That song scored us a lot of wedding gigs. Still does. We their money’s worth. played some equally triumphant sets at equally packed ven- sort of knew we had a hit as soon as we were done record- ues. And spent a day skiing in the Alps. So it’s only natural ing it. It had that sort of feel,” singer Högni tells me through that they need to wind down with a drink or five – they are his drink, grinning. We move on to discuss how the band hard working bunch of musicians and deserve their leisurely has been received in their international outings, and how moments. “Icelandic music” is perceived internationally. “There It’s still kind of problematic, as in less than five hours they seems to be some sort of agreement going that everything are expected to make their way to TV2’s recording studios to coming from Iceland is somehow ‘special’ or unique. Peo- perform a song at the stations morning program, God Morgen ple expect the music to be all dreamy and weird. I don’t Norge (“Good morning Norway”). They are a merry bunch know what that means, really. Hjaltalín isn’t like that. We and seem to get along quite nicely; in between generous sips play rather basic pop music with some additional instru- of vodka they record parodies of old Icelandic classics on ments. If we’re in any way special, it’s because we create their laptops and trade various stories of mischief. During a our music with more craftsmanship than many of the out- lull in the conversation, I ask bassist Guðmundur Óskar what fits going that maybe operate more by feel or instinct. It’s he thinks makes a hit song. more thought out. but there’s nothing really ‘special’ or “I believe the content of the lyrics is incredibly important,” ‘unique’ about us. We play basic pop and we like it.” Retro Stefson caught backstage in underwear shocker! he tells me. “For a particular song to gain an audience, it needs The husky voiced singer/composer (a dedicated stu- to speak to people on some level, I think. It doesn’t necessarily dent of music, Högni does arrangements for many Icelan- need to have a deep message or anything, but people have to dic bands in his spare time) laughs and excuses himself be able to connect with a song if they are to invest in it. And of from our conversation. There are jokes to be told, hymns Heaven Shall Burn and Hell’s Kitchen course it has to have a nice melody as well. That goes without to be sung. As I make my way out of Hjaltalín’s hotel room At the age of 22, Ólafur Arnalds is already a widely regard- saying.” at around 2 AM the party shows no signs of letting up. ed composer in many circles. Operating under a strict DIY “That God Morgen show was probably the one of work ethic and the M.O. of “Breaking classical music out of hardest thing any of us have done in our lives,” they tell the tweed jacket and loafers and putting it into a t-shirt and me the day after. Still, they made it through OK and judg- trainers”, Ólafur has built a solid fan-base throughout Europe ing by the large crowd at their second show, they seem to and the US over the last three years. In 2008 alone, Ólafur have made a fine impression. performed a total of 121 shows everywhere from Pittsburgh to Porto, selling out impressive venues like London’s Barbican Hall. He is very clearly on a roll. More Mickey Mouse than Mötley Crüe At the age of fourteen, Ólafur – then the drummer of sev- Backstage at MONO that night, the youngsters of Retro eral metal and hardcore outfits – started experimenting with Stefson are giddy and cheerful after winning over a sar- classical composition. “I was initially really into film scores, dine-can of a crowd with a kick-ass display of powerful wanted to do something similar and thus started composing showmanship, youthful vigour and some great songs. stuff on my computer,” Ólafur tells me over a pretty mean Drummer Gylfi, sporting long johns and a huge grin, pizza at Hell’s Kitchen restaurant, a popular media hangout dances around the room while tall, dark and handsome in Oslo. “It wasn’t purely classical in the beginning, I had Hjaltalín's Hjörtur (far left) is to lazy to stand while he per- bandleader Unnsteinn Manúel calmly analyzes their per- guitars and drums and stuff in there – it was symphonic forms. REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009 | 9

metal. I wound up giving someone a demo tape of my work, and that A Brief History lead to me being asked to compose an intro to an album by [German hardcore outfit] Heaven Shall Burn. Now, it wouldn’t have made sense of Icelandic to have metal guitars and drums as an intro to a metal album, so I cut them out.” Hit-Makers The intro piece was to arouse some interest in Ólafur’s work, and he was soon offered a record deal on a small German label. “So I made Mezzoforte GRAPEVINE EXPOSES an album and started playing shows. It was all kind of random, but it Founded in 1977 under the influence of seems to have worked out OK.” Earth, Wind and Fire and Weather Report, jazz-funk fusion pioneers Mezzoforte was the first Icelandic act to reach inter- Glacier porn Clowning around with public money. national success when the single Gar- SORDID ‘MUSIC TRIP’ TO Ólafur is cheerful this Saturday afternoon, and he has every reason den Party from their fourth LP, Surprise, to be. The previous night’s show was deemed a total and complete Surprise, reached no 17 on the British success by the by:Larm daily newspaper’s critic, who waxed ecstatic singles chart in 1983. In the wake of their about it in a gush of near-pornographic adjectives worthy of early Sigur success in England, the band garnered Rós reviews, all glacial this and majestic that. “It’s kind of embarrass- POSTSCRIPT: A mindless cheerleader speaks! considerable following and toured exten- ing reading such reviews,” says Ólafur, “but I am of course happy and Ólafur Arnalds, Hjaltalín and Retro Stefson are all ridiculously accom- sively worldwide, playing as many as 150 ‘SCANDINAVIA’S SODOM’ thankful that people dig my work and like to rave about it.” plished musicians by any standard. They have all left big marks on shows one year. Now, 30 years and eleven He reminisces about his beginnings. “I think people were initially Iceland’s musical landscape and now seem destined to move on to albums later, the band still ignites fusion interested in me because I was this punk kid trying my hand at classi- further successes, be they artistic, commercial or both. enthusiasts around the world when they cal music, which is usually confined to a different type of crowd and This is awesome in and of itself, not the least since they are all reunite for the occasional performance. venue and played by different types of people. At least they dress dif- humble, hardworking and down to earth people – the very opposites Key recordings: ferently. I played small dive bars and clubs and came on wearing jeans of the types Icelanders seemed to celebrate during “the dark years”. Dreamland/Shooting Star; Surprise, Sur- and a t-shirt – there was this whole crowd of people that wanted to If anyone is going to rebuild the nation’s reputation abroad, it’s these prise; Nothing Lasts Forever. experience the type of music I make and maybe felt comfortable doing people and the values they’ve been upholding all along: values of di- so in their own environment, as opposed to snooty concert halls.” versity, camaraderie and friendship that our crop of young musicians The Sugarcubes We talk about some of the places he’s played. Poland is his all time seem to honour. When members of Icelandic punk/post- favourite country to perform thus far. “It’s kind of strange and really As an avid follower of – and participant in – the Reykjavík music punk cult classics K.U.K.L., Þeyr and heart-warming. People there just appreciate the music so much, it’s scene over the last few years, what strikes me the most about all of this Purrkur Pilnikk joined hands in 1986 incredible. I got mobbed leaving a venue there. The shows sell out is the realisation that I could have followed any number of our musi- to form the new wave band The Sugar- instantly. I don’t know, playing there and watching the crowd react cians to Oslo and reached pretty much the same conclusion. There’s cubes, it was obvious that Iceland wasn’t made me think that maybe us Westerners have become spoiled by all Skátar, Mammút, Agent Fresco and Hraun. We’ve got Weapons, For big enough to contain them. After being the music that we’re continually exposed to. It’s like they appreciate a Minor Reflection, Rökkurró, Celestine Sign and Sólstafir. Forgot- spotted by influential UK radio DJ John it more in places like Poland. I was kind of envious of that, because I ten Lores and FM Belfast. Singapore Sling. Deathmetal Supersquad. I Peel, the band's debut LP, Life's Too Good, remember how it felt.” could go on all day. reached no 14 on the British Charts, and We are joined at our table by members of Retro Stefson and Hjal- Of course, not all of these will attain Sugarcubes-style worldwide 54 in the US, following the success of sin- talín, fresh from an Oslo sightseeing trip. “It’s a rather dull and com- notoriety and chart success. Maybe none of them will make it past gle Birthday. The Sugarcubes went on to mon looking town,” Hjaltalín’s Högni remarks. “The people are very their second LP. But that doesn’t matter. The fact that these young peo- tour with U2 and headline shows across nice, but I find it hard to get excited about it.” Meanwhile, Retro Stef- ple have in them the confidence and stamina to carry on their creative the US and Europe. All three Sugarcubes son’s Haraldur and Þorbjörg debate whether to go on a sleighing trip endeavours so relentlessly and the breadth of vision to make up such LPs reached the top 20 in the UK and the following day. Someone apparently told them that you can take a a diverse and vital scene is what matters. four singles reached the top ten in the train to the top of a local mountain, rent a sleigh there and ride to the This sounds like a bunch of hype, I’m sure. I’m probably coming US, with the aptly named Hit reaching bottom. Sounds like a sweet deal. Ólafur excuses himself to go do his off as a sort of indie-rock Ólafur Ragnar Grímsson, a mindless cheer- the top of Billboard's Modern Rock chart. soundcheck and the rest of us sit around picking at pizza crust, engag- leader or lecherous PR person pining to stay relevant by gushing The band parted ways in 1992, paving the ing in random conversation. meaningless expletives at a hearty rate. But I know it’s not and I know way for... I’m not. I believe in this, and so should you. Key recordings: All is well in Oslo, Norway. Life's Too Good, Stick Around for Joy Björk Following the break-up of the Sugar- Jón Ingvi's secret Norwegian roots uncovered! cubes, their lead singer, a puny woman named Björk who had a habit of blowing A WHO'S WHO OF THE NORWAY TRIP! THE NORWEGIAN everyone away with her vocal chords, decided she wasn’t done making music. Her debut album, the cunningly named PHOTO BY HÖRÐUR SVEINSSON Gylfi actually has no eyes - tries to cover up by bogus narcolepsy claims! Rhythm-king Haraldur's party Debut, exceeded a million copies sold in animal front a sham! the US and reached double platinum in THE FAKE NARCOLEPTIC the UK. With 13 Grammy nominations, an Furry Högni's beard is actually an THE FAKER Rebekka's sultry Oscar nomination, and two Golden Globe elaborate double-chin cover-up! alter-ego runs nominations to her name, Björk remains Guðmundur Óskar is sick of being amok! one of the most respected and popular THE BOHEMIAN in THE ECONOMIST's shadow Retro Stefson star Þórður artists in the world and her recent tour Jör (19) spends untold THE FOXY in support of her latest release Volta saw SHADOW MAN $$$ on fashion! LADY her fill stadiums worldwide. Key recordings: THE DANDY Debut, Post, Vespertine, Volta Sigur Rós Formed in 1994, Sigur Rós did nothing but add to the image of Iceland as the last frontier of the eclectic and eccen- tric. Their debut album sold sparsely, but the sophomore release Ágætis Byrjun, slowly went on to become a commer- cial and critical success. The follow up, ( ), was not as accessible, but gathered much attention for its eccentric lyrics (or lack thereof), delivered in a made up lan- guage called Hopelandic. in 2005, Takk... THE SOCIALITE became the band's most successful re- lease at the time, debuting at no 27 in Suave Þorbjörg prefers partying the US and reaching double gold sales in down to homework! the UK. Their latest album, the 2008 Með THE AVIATOR PUNKER suð í eyrum við spilum endalaust, saw the THE LADIES MAN band depart from their ethereal and mini- Axel is hiding his punk-rock past malist post-rock sound towards more while secretly training to be an Ólafur Arnalds is obsessed with playful pop melodies. It is the bands most aviator! blondes! successful album, reaching no 15 on the Billboard Top 200 and 5 on the British THE ANGRY YOUNG MAN Chart list. Key Recordings: THE ECONOMIST Hard-man of Hanoi Logi actually real sweet THE DIVA once you get to know him! Ágætis byrjun, Takk..., Með suð í eyrum Sigga Toll demands extravagant Sexy Hjörtur secretly training to wreak við spilum endalaust backstage amenities! havoc on UK economy...! BY SVEINN BIRKIR BJÖRNSSON 10 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

Iceland’s 1000 Years:

ARTICLE BY VALUR GUNNARSSON ILLUSTRATION BY BOBBY BREIÐHOLT The Road from and to Serfdom “Those who are considered chieftains in this trade flowed, became incorporated into the Han- seemed to be feeding the same mouth. country are foolishly susceptible to prayer, drink seatic trading system. Its other two main pillars were the Shell and bribery, but still the simple and poor common This, however, did not lead to an increase oil company and the Sjóvá-Almennar insurance people believe them and are duped.” in living standards among the Icelandic pub- company. lic. Quite the contrary happened as the climate Its main rival was another conglomerate, Sound familiar? No, this is not a comment on the became harsher and crops could no longer be Sambandið, often called the “Small Octopus” or current economic collapse. These words were grown. At the same time, a few families became “the Squid.” The Octopus was tied to the Inde- written by the Danish king’s emissary in the 15th very wealthy from the fish trade. The rich became pendence Party, and the Squid to the Progressive Century who was sent here to survey the king’s richer and the poor poorer. Party, the two parties who have divided Iceland new possession in the North Atlantic. between them for most of the 20th Century. To any observer of the Icelandic banking No fish, no freedom Virtually all fishing distilleries belonged crisis, one of the most surprising aspects must be When the bubonic plague devastated Norway in to one or the other, and an understanding was that no one, whether in the financial community the mid-14th Century, shipping to and from Ice- reached regarding spheres of influence. By the or then government, has assumed any responsi- land virtually ceased. Both Norway and Iceland late 80’s the Squid was falling apart, leaving the bility. came under the control of the king of Denmark. In field to the bigger player. “Deny, deny, deny,” was the advice Presi- 1490, new laws were set stipulating that those who dent Clinton supposedly gave to Monica Lewinsky did not own livestock must become tenants for Meet the new boss... when they were caught in the act. It was following someone who did. Hence, the poorer labourers In 1991, the Independence Party, along with the his own advice that turned a minor scandal into a were from then on forced to work for the wealth- Social Democrats, formed a government headed major one. Not only had the President cheated on ier landowners. Most Icelanders became virtual by Prime Minister Davíð Oddsson. Oddson’s grand his wife, but he had also lied to the public about it. serfs and were not allowed to make a living out of plan was to open up the economy, privatise most Now, bankrupting your country while in office is the one thing Iceland had in abundance, namely government run companies and encourage com- not the same thing a screwing your secretary. Just fish. Fishing was only practiced during time off petition. No doubt most of the companies were ask former President Bush, who will fare much from farmhand duties, and the catch belonged to intended to go to the old guard of the Octopus, worse in the history books than the philandering the landowner. most of who were loyal party members. But some- Clinton. This system prevailed to a large extent in where down the line, Oddsson lost control of the Both are on the Guardian’s list of 25 people Iceland into the 19th Century. Free trade was one privatisation. A new, hungry class of oligarchs responsible for the economic crisis. So is Iceland’s of the main goals of Jón Sigurðsson and those emerged, who were swifter and more fierce than former PM Geir Haarde. Like his colleagues, de- struggling for Icelandic independence. New laws the old elite had been. They also had liquid cash, nying the obvious is Haarde’s take on history. For were set that prevented traders from owning more some from ventures in Russia, others from control most Icelanders, it was shocking to see the former than one store in each town, thus preventing mo- of the lucrative supermarket chains in Iceland. Emperor, like a sketch out of Spaugstofan, with no nopolies. Living conditions improved consider- The old elite had less capital, and had relied on clothes on in BBC’s HardTalk. When asked repeat- ably as the 19th century wore on, fishing became co-ownership in most of the major companies. edly, he would not offer an apology to the people ever more important, and boats became both big- The Octopus was eaten up by these new sharks. of Iceland who now must suffer so much, neither ger and more numerous. as former PM nor as a human being. A simple Tragedy and farce sorry last autumn might have allowed him to keep The Octopus spreads its tentacles By the first decade of the 21st Century, a group of his job. But Haarde chose denial. In 1914, a shipping company, Eimskip, was between five and 25 men owned virtually all the formed. Its founders were well aware that Iceland country’s wealth. The gold rolling into their cof- Sorry seems to be the had lost its independence centuries earlier be- fers came from the Icelandic people, who had to hardest word cause it did not have control of its shipping and pay the highest prices in the world for necessities Did he and his party really think that they would were determined not to let history repeat itself. such as groceries, as well the highest interest rates get away with bankrupting the country and not The company became known as the “dream in the world. The combined wealth of Iceland was shouldering any blame? So it would seem. But child of the nation,” and everyone, rich and poor, such that those who controlled it managed to be- then again, they always have. bought stocks so that it might prosper. At the time, come major players on the international stage. Iceland’s economic collapse last autumn its owners totalled 13.000 in all, at a time when But as their assets continued to grow, no was spectacular, but in many ways it was just a the population had not yet reached 100.000. But one really understood where the money was little bit of history repeating. When Iceland was ownership was not distributed evenly. This fact coming from. It seems the answer, in the end, was founded in 930, it was a democratic society (by was well hidden, as ownership of major corpora- simple. It didn’t exist. They had taken out loan af- the standards of the time), with ships of its own, tions was kept secret. ter loan, mortgaged everything they bought time relatively peaceful and with an economy that When the ownership of Eimskip was finally and time again, and in every case the Icelandic could easily sustain its people. made public, it turned out that 40% of the stock government was responsible for these loans. Now After the introduction of Christianity, power was owned by 15 individuals who controlled the that the bubble has burst, it seems the Icelandic came to be consolidated in fewer and fewer board. The board had been buying up stock sold people will yet again have to foot the bill. Our in- hands as Chieftains built churches and amassed by shareholders without putting these on the mar- dependence passed from the banks to the IMF. wealth through them. By the 13th Century, Ice- ket, something that in most other countries is con- land was a violent and impoverished country. sidered insider trading and is illegal. The board ...And Justice for All The chieftains, mainly consisting of five families, had also been buying stock in other companies, Icelanders are hardworking people in a harsh constantly fought over control of the nation’s re- notably about a third of Icelandair shares, and land. Through sheer grit, they managed to turn it sources. Meanwhile, the shipstocks had not been some people sat on the board in both companies. into one of the most prosperous countries in the maintained and Iceland could not supply itself. In the 80’s, Eimskip had also gobbled up its big- world. But time and again, they have been robbed Eventually, they had to appeal to another author- gest competitor, Hafskip. blind while a select few got most of the proceeds ity. The Norwegian king, the regional IMF of the from their work. Currently, our money is to be day, had to be brought in to bring order to the The Octopus and the Squid found in the Cayman Islands while, through yet country, and Iceland lost its independence. Some people wondered whether Eimskip’s con- more hard work, we must rebuild the country yet siderable proceeds should not be spent on lower- again. The end of Independence, pt. 1 ing prices on traffic rather than taking over other Iceland managed to prosper in spite of, not Peace was restored at the price of independence. companies. This would lead to more purchasing because of, the Independence Party that kept It seemed that prosperity might follow also. power among the general public and benefit the prices high and competition limited. Imagine After the start of the Norwegian period, fish population and economy as a whole. But those what a paradise hard-working people could cre- became, for the first time, the most important ex- who owned the nation’s dream child had other in- ate if they were allowed to keep the fruit of their port. Markets opened up in the Baltic once that terests. Iceland was no longer a part of Denmark, labours themselves rather than surrender it to the area had become Christian. Catholics were not but it had a new set of lords. wealthy few. Let us hope this time they will. Let us allowed to eat meat on Fridays and hence fish The 15 families controlled virtually all traf- hope they will be duped no more. became a popular substitute. The Norwegian port fic to and from the country. These were later of Bergen, through which much of the Icelandic nicknamed “The Octopus,” as its many arms all FOS. 6. FOS. 13. FOS. 27. Maggi Lego aka Absolut voodoo Hunk of a man Disco Frisco take2 Yamaho vs LAU. 28. LAU. 7. Karius og Bactus Hyper LAU. 14. ClubRed Square Sexy Lazer Kiddaz.FM Island Hunk of a man episode one Night Jacobsen resident DJ FOS. 20. Rompecabeza/ Yamaho PartyZone Kiddaz.FM Berlin Hyper Hyper resident DJ Már og Niels HOLGI Dandy LAU. 21. STAR Digital Margeir Jacobsen presents Damien Eie og Sinfó Yamaho

De gode tider Austurstræti 9

EXPECT HANG OVERS...

THE BIGGEST CLUB IN DOWNTOWN REYKJAVIK. LIVE MUSIC EVERY WEEKEND. WWW.NASA.IS 12 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

POETRY DESTINATION BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson — PHOTOs BY GAS

God Makes Poet Go Bonkers

BY Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl

Not much is known about 17th century poet Þor- björn Þórðarsson or his life, even his identity and name are up for debate. His early poetry is more or less forgotten, although it is said to have been rather plain—uneventful yet skilful—and his art occasional and his subject matter being (as was common) everyday life. Through an unusual act of divine intervention, this all would change. But this we do know: one day Þorbjörn was minding his blacksmithing business in Skógarnes at Löngufjörur, when a group of travellers approached, looking for a safe way to cross Haffjarðará River. The travellers greeted Þorbjörn heartily, seeing as here they’d found a local man who could advise them on their journey through terrain they knew very little of. Þorbjörn was by all accounts having a bad day. His blacksmithing was tiresome and not An Oasis in the Snow moving along with the expediency he would have wished. Perhaps he was, like many contemporary The 2nd Annual Northern Wave Film Festival poets, fed up with his day job and wishing to have the time necessary to hone his poetic skills. When the travellers asked where they should cross the river, he answered (as was poets’ wont in The second Northern Wave Film optional, not mandatory. When the shivers stopped 90s frenzy and substance abuse his time) with a poem. More precisely, a quatrain: Festival was launched flamboy- we headed off to the stables right outside the town That Saturday night the main fête was thrown in the antly last Friday with champagne, where the Weird Girls, an Icelandic all-female art screening hall, but when we entered it seemed as Though with hammer to iron I cater group, had set up their camp. We didn’t stop for the 1500 ISK entry fee had thwarted some of the caviar and speeches; the whole ‘tis all for naught I slammer. long, but the whole instalment seemed colourful festival’s attendants from appearing. The hall was Take the course for Eldborg-crater, nine yards. Or so I’ve heard. The and energetic while a small crew of photographers half-empty. Anonymous blasted gorilla techno that and cross at Þóris-hammer. truth is that while the last atten- and cinematographers captured the flock on film was defiantly enjoyed by the few on the dance- dants of the opening ceremony as they skipped around splashing homemade paint floor, but the rest seemed fulfilled by observing the This would all have been well and good, had the were being dragged up to their ho- over their bizarre, one-eyed costumes. Weird Girls, still bizarrely uniformed, moving and advice Þorbjörn gave to the travellers, in his mind- dancing in mysterious ways on the floor. As the less irritation toiling away with the iron, not been tel rooms by twitchy better halves, night passed, the horde grew and at the peak you a bit inaccurate. Or to put it plainly (we do strive several-too-many drinks in, I was could even pass it off as crowded. This was most to make it simple): his advice was dead-wrong, er- stuck mid-blizzard in the waste- likely due to the super-spunky 90’s hits that filled roneous, false, reprehensible and vicious—put it lands near Grundarfjörður the room courtesy of DJs Kitty von Sometime and how you will: Þorbjörn sent the travellers towards Mokki. When the lights were lit people seemed a an impassable part of the river, straight into the As I squinted my eyes behind the wheel, trying to bit drowsy and moseyed home to prepare for the rapids of hell. The travellers, however, being suffi- see further than the five metres allotted by the bliz- main screening the day after. We found out when ciently naïve to believe a poet’s pretty words, tried zard, several gigantic trucks rushed by and almost we got back that our next-door neighbour seemed to cross where they were told. Needless to say, they thrust us off the road. So although we missed the intent on keeping us awake by shouting “I love you” all drowned. champagne we obtained a genuine buzz of our and “I’m coming” in a incredibly loud manner, re- In those years God was not the forgiving fel- own: narrowly escaping death on an Icelandic peatedly. Finally, though, she came. And we fell low we’ve come to admire in later years, and he did highway. asleep. not at all enjoy having to receive the all-too early Eventually we arrived in the sleepy hollow The Icelandic shorts screened at the festival travellers (perhaps he wanted time to work on his and after settling in at the cosy and small hotel we were of incredibly good quality and made you poetry). So he smote Þorbjörn with a curse: He be- hit the sleazy, but homey, diner we’d dreamed of on realise that this is somewhat of an underestimated reaved him of the ‘gift of poetry’. But Þorbjörn, be- our travels along the peninsula. And it sure looked field here in Iceland. Those I cherished most were ing of stubborn stock, wouldn’t take no-poetry for like the whole town was there. Once we’d gotten The Nail by Benedikt Erlingsson, a hysteric tell- an answer, and kept at it, poesying like a madman, a few beers into our system we woke up, sort of. ing of the Icelandic PM falling on a nail causing quite literally. No matter how he toiled away at his And quite a way to wake up it was, for DLX ATX had him to act barbaric (he even gives raping a fellow quatrains and tercets, they all turned out nonsensi- just begun their set at the bar. Describing them as minister a whirl), as well as Gunnur Þórhalls de- cal, full of words that weren’t words, sentences that dynamic would be an understatement, really. Once piction of a bulimic wonder-family. The crème de alluded meaning, leaning on nothing but the verse- they had basically ejaculated all over the crowd, la crème, though, was Rúnar Rúnarsson’s “Little framework: dance trio Sykur appeared to swab the residue off We finally arrived at the screening centre as the Birds”, which told a tragicomic story of puppy love the stage. Sykur aroused the local ladies intense- animations were to begin. They were as many as in a rural village, adding a dash of substance and Loppu hroppu lyppu ver ly—they now have loyal pack of Grundarfjörður they were different, all foreign. All in all it was a physical abuse. So it was no wonder that Rúnars- lastra klastra styður, groupies following their every move on MySpace. fulfilling run of amusing as well as intriguing shorts. son received the first prize. The festival certainly Hoppu goppu hippu ver. Next in line were the experimental shorts, but the gives some much needed attention to the under- hann datt þarna niður. Experimental, Animated and Weird most conspicuous one was by a German-American represented side of Icelandic cinema, and hope- Surely ridding oneself of a hearty hangover via woman who amusingly mocked Guantanamo Bay fully we’ll be able to frequent the festival in coming Some of the words in the first three lines can be freezing shower is a good idea. However, the man- and other facilities of the sort with a looping clip. years. seen as having ‘meaning’, while some are ‘mean- agers of our Grundarfjörður hotel should bear in Her thorough explanations of her intent and ideas ingless’—the context is complete nonsense, beau- mind that most people prefer their cold showers after the show felt patronizing, however. tiful nonsense, soundbouts in rounds galore—less literati than alliterati, or even illiterati, and yet it sounds like something a fisherman-blacksmith would write; it sounds like a fisherman-blacksmith's vocabulary, never mind you that the words don’t mean anything—they SOUND. The final line was all Þorbjörn had left of We found out when we got back more traditional poetry, word-by-word: he fell there down. From the moment his curse became real- that our next-door neighbour ity, more often than not, only Þorbjörn’s last lines seemed intent on keeping us awake would be ‘readable’. As his poetic career contin- ued, Þorbjörn got to be known as ‘Æri-Tobbi’, Tobbi by shouting “I love you” and “I’m being a nickname for Þorbjörn and ‘æri’ meaning coming” in a incredibly loud man- ‘crazy’ or ‘insane’—and so he's known today. Little did God know on the day he smote ner, repeatedly. Finally, though, his curse on Þorbjörn that he’d be giving birth to she came. And we fell asleep. Iceland’s first avant-garde poet—a sound poet, no less, whose control of Zaum is first-class, putting him in a category with such 20th century greats as F.T. Marinetti and Hugo Ball. fair play in music

gogoyoko.com 14 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Eating by the sea and a delicios lobster Food at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Nordic House, Nordic Food

Reviewed by Sari Peltonen — Photo by Jói Kjartans

Gunnar Karl Gíslason, chef and vocal The place seats up to 30 people and has Where: advocate for Nordic food, and Ólafur Örn been packed for lunch since they opened Restaurant Dill, Ólafsson, president of the sommelier bravely on Friday the 13th last month. The The Nordic House. association—both colleagues from pre- official grand opening is on the 13th this Sturlugata 5, 101 Reykjavik vious employer VOX—set out to reinvent month; again, a Friday. How much: Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir the Nordic House eating area, from dingy 1.000 - 9.000 ISK cafeteria to sophisticated venue for sea- 1 C11 What we think: sonal, local and modern Nordic food—an Amazing food, Icelandic take on slow food, if you please. beautiful setting, There are two faces to Dill. During the bargain price. day they serve a simple, affordable lunch. In the evening, they serve a fine dining dinner. We tried the lunch. The short menu consists of a soup (850 ISK), a salad (950 ISK) and a main dish (1700 ISK), plus dessert, coffee and cake—everything you need. My lunch date had the main course “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ of the day: pork shoulder with vegetables and herbs. The pork, braised for 20 hours, Don’t miss it! was tender, juicy and sticky, complement- ed by aromatic warmth from the herbs. I stole as many as I could of the sweet celery roots from his plate, “al dente” to give a perfect contrast to the melt-in-the-mouth meat. I chose the salad with fennel julienne, beetroot leaves, dill (appropriately enough) and a light rapeseed oil and apple vinegar dressing—no olive oil used here, as it is Nordic cuisine through and through. With subtle flavours and fresh ingredi- Viking feasts every night ents, it was the perfect winter salad, the kind that is hard to come by in this town. - live entertainment The food was excellent. As for the For booking and service, it did not quite match that high further information: standard. The attitude was positive and Tel.: +354 565-1213 pleasantly laid-back, yet the action slightly www.vikingvillage.is [email protected] shaky at times. Lunch has a time frame and everything must run smoothly. We Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur waited for the menus and water to place our order and for coffee to be suggested— in short everything except the food—and I’m afraid we weren’t the only ones. Hav- ing said that, there are plenty of worse places to wait than in front of the amaz- ing view of the town surrounded by Alvar Aalto’s timeless design.

Food & Drink | Venue finder 3 Frakkar menu of vegetarian – an absolute must and Domo grab a tasty bite for a shop in Iceland, Hlölla Baldursgata 14 | F9 and vegan dishes. In- worth the wait. Þingholtsstræti 5 | F7 reasonable price. Bátar has a large A seriously Icelandic dian theme on Fridays Brons The elegantly deco- Garðurinn selection of creatively we bring the o to sush atmosphere and tradi- a hit. Pósthússtræti 9 | E6 rated Domo serves Klappastigur 37 | G7 named sandwiches tional Icelandic dishes B5 Called a bistro, but delicious French-Asian “Ecstasy’s Heart” is with equally imagina- prepared in the good Bankastræti 5 | F6 more a restaurant cuisine, excellent sushi a simple, friendly, tive contents. Good for old-fashioned way. By day a chic little in quality, Brons is and has a great wine family-run vegetarian an adventurous bite. RSVP and keep your bistro with good food settled in the place of list. A sure choice. restaurant on Klap- Hornið ears pricked for wild and a prime loca- former popular Café Einar Ben parstígur. Offers an Hafnarstræti 15 | E6 whaling tales! tion for Laugavegur Kaffibrennslan. Brons Veltusundi | E6 ever-changing menu Since 1979, this Italian Aktu Taktu people watching–by focuses on Mediter- The restaurant Einar of specials and soup restaurant has been Skúlugata 15 | K8 night a stylish bar ranian cuisine and is Ben is named after du jours, alongside a a longtime Reykjavík This drive-in destina- with a “whiskey room” famous for serving one of Iceland’s na- basic menu staple. Famous for its tion in 101 Reykjavík and Manhattanesque dishes that are as tional heroes, the early Grái Kötturinn pizza and stuffed cal- is busy day and night clientele. large as they are deli- 20th century poet and Hverfisgata 16A | G7 zones, it proudly offers and the burgers are Basil & Lime cious. entrepreneur Einar Legendary for its early an affordable menu of especially tasty. The Klapparstíg 38 | G7 Café Cultura Benediktsson, who opening ours, the Gray high-quality dishes. caramel shakes are a Basil & Lime located Hverfisgata 18 | G6 once lived in the house Cat serves amazing Hótel Holt Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562 local favorite. at Klapparstígur 38 Cultura is a café/bar where the restaurant is breakfasts and coffee Bergstaðarstræti 37 American Style serves authentic Ital- with a party feel. The now located. In many that packs a wallop. A | F7 Tryggvagata 26 | E5 ian cuisine and dishes. menu features all sorts ways, the restaurant splendid way to start Housing Iceland´s With a soft bun and Fresh pasta made at of international dishes, Einar Ben pays hom- you off on your day. most renowned res- lots of veggies, you location and an exqui- alongside the staple age to the historic rela- taurant, The Gallery, tions coupled with the Grillhúsið can settle into a booth site Tiramisu dessert salad and sandwich. Tryggvagata 20 | an evening here is an and eat for hours. Big make this one of the house and the person unforgettable experi- Café Loki who lived there. E5/E6 portions for authentic best italian restaurants Lokastígur 28 | G9 With a menu of rea- ence. Delicious French- American dining. in Reykjavík. With a splendid view Eldsmiðjan sonably priced home- inspired cuisine and Argentína Steak- Babalú of Hallgrímskirkja, Café Bragagata 38A | G9 style food, Grillhúsið fine wines await. house Skólavörðustígur 22A Loki is the perfect Totally satisfying has satiated hungry Humarshúsið Barónstígur | I8 | G8 place to take a load oven-baked pizza regulars since 1994 Ammtmanstígur 1 True to its name with It’s tough to miss café off your feet and enjoy with a wide choice of with juicy burgers, | E7 tender steaks and Babalú walking up some solid homemade toppings–snails an sandwiches, steaks One of the oldest res- flamingly vibrant South Skólavörðustigur. A Icelandic food. unusual specialty. Well and fish dishes. taurants in the country, American décor. Gen- cozy place for coffee worth the cost. Order, the Lobster House is Café Paris take away or eat Habibi erous portions, fine and cake, the well- Austurstræti 14 | E6 Hafnarstræti 20 | D5 known of course for wine, liqueurs and ci- worn, homey ambience comfortably among the its lobster and also With an outdoor ter- paintings. A reliable source of gars make an excellent makes it difficult to race, this café gets high quality shawarma its impressive cognac choice in fine dining. leave. busy on sunny days. Fiskmarkaðurinn and falafel. Important lounge. Fine intimate Austurlanda- Balthazar With a cosy interior, Aðalstræti 12 | D6 ingredient for success- dining. hraðlestin Hafnarstræti 1-3 | fine menu and atten- Run and co-owned by ful living. Hressó the national team of Hverfisgata 64A | H7 D6/E6 tive service, it makes a Hamborgarabúlla Austurstræti 20 | E6 Though a bit expensive A hangout for older for- fine spot for evening chefs, this establish- With a spacious ment specializing in Tómasar (“Bullan”) for take-away, it is well eigners, Victor attracts dining as well. Geirsgata 1 | D5 neutral interior and worth it for a spicy bite a diverse crowd, both Japanese cuisine has a varied lunch menu, Café Roma everything planned to Considered by some of this Indian cuisine. in age and origin, a rule Rauðarárstígur 8 | J9 to be the best real Hressó attracts no A few tables to the that extends to the mu- the last detail, ensur- specific type of crowd. Roma, an Italian deli ing a relaxing evening. hamburger in Reyk- side for those who sicians that play there. and café, offers a va- javík, “Bullan” does Tap beer and music choose to dine in. Bæjarins Beztu riety of breads, soups Geysir Bar/Bistro serve some mysteri- makes a fair hangout Á Næstu Grösum Tryggvagata | E6 as well as tempting Aðalstræti 2 | D6 ously delicious burgers, on weekends. Laugavegur 20B | G7 The oldest fast-food in desserts. For a good Situated in the digni- guaranteed to take the Icelandic Regarded by many to Iceland, it is feasibly bargain, come at fied Geysir Building at edge off any hangover. Fish & Chips the corner of Vestur- be the best vegetarian the best hot dog stand lunchtime for the Hlölla Bátar Tryggvagata 8 | E5 place in town, “First in Europe. Don’t be specials. gata and Aðalstræti, Not your average this stylish bistro is Ingólfstorg | D6 Vegetarian” offers intimidated by the The first sub sandwich fish’n’chips joint, but a healthy and tasty perpetual line in front always a good place to a healthy restaurant 15 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Drinking by the sea and a delicios lobster Café Press at Fjörubordid in Stokkseyri Start At The Top: Kaffismiðja Íslands

Reviewed by Sari Peltonen — Photo by Jói Kjartans

I like coffee and Reykjavík is a nice place to drink it. For a town of its size, there are plenty of coffee shops, and the qual- ity of coffee is generally good. You rarely get the really nasty stuff: espresso that Spör ehf. -Spör Ragnheiður ehf. Ágústsdóttir you can surface a road with, cappuccino that makes you think of frog spawn, latte that burns your tongue off. And given that we are in the country with the 3rd highest coffee consumption per capita in the world, the coffee had better be good. For the next few Grapevines, I will review some select Reykjavík cafés for your convenience. The recently opened Kaffismiðja Islands serves the best cof- fee in town. For other aspects of coffee culture there may be better places to go, but if you are in it for the coffee, this is the place. “You haven't been in Iceland if you haven't been to us“ “You could have the combination of the best machines and the best beans or hung-over hipsters here. Where: Don’t miss it! and it would not be enough,” says co- This may not be the fastest place for a Kaffismiðja Islands, owner Sonja Björk Grant. “It takes a coffee-to-go, though. I would rather wait Kárastigur 1, 101 Reykjavík skilled barista to deliver the goods.” a little to get good coffee than drink hast- People: Here the equipment is best in the world ily prepared slop, yet it is not the coffee Coffee geeks, barista (La Marzocco and Mazzer), the staff the making that takes time here, top baris- champions, regulars, FM best in the country and the beans are tas that they are, but rather the organis- Belfast. freshly roasted on site. ing of it all. This will hopefully develop Place: T here are t wo bean options for espres- over time. Cosy and cute, but not for so drinks. I love the luxury of choice, but Finally, there is one reason I go to extensive lounging. the difference is not quite clear. I want to Kaffismiðja regularly and two reasons I Price: know more than “this one is a little bit don’t stay and sit around. I go for the Espresso 250 ISK; Latte 350 stronger”. Who wants weak coffee any- great coffee. I don’t stay because, first, ISK; Filter coffee 250 ISK; Viking feasts every night way? the place seats less than 20 people and Beans 750 ISK/300 g, 50 ISK The “little bit stronger” Indonesian it is almost always full. Second, as lovely reduction if you bring back the - live entertainment espresso has thick, dark crema and is as window shelves for seats and an old bag for reuse. For booking and just the right length, far from the watery sewing machine desk for a table look, Play: further information: full cup that is a sadly frequent offering they are not comfortable to my sensitive Barista magazines, coffee Tel.: +354 565-1213 in the local coffee shops. The latte made coffeehouse hangout muscles. And due books. Customers are also www.vikingvillage.is [email protected] from Brazilian beans has a good balance to the fact I always get the bloody sewing free to operate the vinyl record between coffee and milk flavours and is machine table. player. Strandgata 55 Hafnarfjordur silky in texture. It is served with a per- Provender: fect rosetta on the surface. Porridge and Cornflakes (350 The coffee making is excellent but 2 G8 ISK each) in the morning; the customer service has a less than pro- cinnamon buns, savoury rolls. fessional feel to it. The service is charm- Come here for: ingly sincere, however, and friendly with The best coffee in town and a real enthusiasm for coffee—a rare treat beans for home. these days. No bored-to-death teenagers

using only organic of a back-alley London restaurant delivering place to relax. Regular ing Asian-fusion fordable lobster. vegetables and qual- Café. On weekends it a buffet of authentic art exhibits add to the dishes. Share the Thorvaldsen ity fish products. The becomes a happening sushi straight to your aesthetic. exotic menu, courses Austurstræti 8 | E6 spiced skyr side a and diverse bar. table. Santa Maria selected by the chef, Dress formally for this special treat. Krua Thai Pisa Laugavegur 22A, | F7 with a friend for the fancy spot, and come we bring the o to sush Jómfrúin Tryggvagata 14 | D5 Lækjargötu 6b | E6 Authentic Mexican most fun. before 12 to avoid a Lækjargata 4 | E6 We dare you to find In a small-ish cellar by food, directly from the Sólon long line. DJs play These days, good a better meal for the Lækjagata, you’ll find stove of the owner’s Bankastræti 7a | F6 Thursdays, Fridays and Smörrebröd can be an same price anywhere newly opened Italian mother, who is an Truly a jack-of-all Saturdays. elusive delicacy. Lucky else. Every dish is restaurant Pisa. authentic Mexican. trades establishment. Tíu Dropar for us out in the colo- delicious. Just eat what Pizza King Served with a healthy By night a decent res- Laugavegur 27 | G7 nies, it’s alive and well looks best to you on Hafnarstræti 18 | E6 distaste for anything taurant, by day a café/ An old-fashioned café at Jómfrúin with fresh their colorful menu. This little place serves TexMex. Also the best bistro and on Friday with warm atmosphere eel imported specially La Primavera not only the cheap- quality/price ratio in and Saturday nights a and generous coffee from Denmark. Austurstræti 9 | E6 est but largest slices town with every dish nightclub. Art exhibi- refills. A thoroughly Kaffi Hljómalind Though it sounds downtown. A local fa- under 1000 ISK. tions on the walls to pleasant establishment. top it off. Laugavegur 21 | G7 strange, La Primavera vorite, and open until 6 Segafredo Tívolí This organic, free-trade serves delicious tra- on Friday and Saturday Lækjatorg | E6 Sushibarinn Laugavegur 3 | F7 café prides itself not ditional North Italian nights. The Italian coffee chain Laugavegur 2 | F7 A stylish bistro with a only on great lunches cuisine using only local Pizza Pronto makes its way to Læk- Deceptively ordinary wide variety of selec- Osushi Lækjargata 2a Og Borgartún 29 I Sími : 561 0562 and food but being a produce. A startlingly Vallarstræti 4 | D6 jatorg Square, bringing Sushibarinn has re- tions and positively strong cultural center, tasty combination and With a convenient strong espresso and cently become the talk charming atmosphere. hosting live music as a local favorite. Italian lunch snacks of the town among location and late hours, Vegamót well as lectures and Lystin a good place to snack to grab on the way to Reykjavík sushi lovers, poetry nights. work or just to enjoy serving, in our opinion, Vegamótastígur 4 Laugavegur 73 | H7 in between bars. Three | G7 Kaffitár Specialising in Icelan- sizes of pizza with on the spot. the very best rolls in city. Vegamót´s kitchen is Bankastræti 8 | F6 dic ingredients, cooked a good selection of Shalimar open until 22.00 daily Kaffitár celebrates in a fusion of Asian toppings. A cheap, if Austurstræti 4 | E6 Svarta Kaffi and sports an appeal- good coffee, and and French cuisine. unhealthy, choice. Shalimar sports the Laugavegur 54 | H8 ing lunch menu. Come serves it in abundance, Mokka Pizzaverksmiðjan conceit of being the A cosy second floor for a tasty brunch on along with sweet Skólavörðustígur 3A Lækjargötu 8 | E6 northernmost Indian café, their fame lies weekends. If you like treats and tasty if pricy | F7 Some say, these guys restaurant in the world partly in their tasty Óliver, try Vegamót and special blends. Eat in Operating since 1958, are making the best and has fine daily spe- Súpa í Brauði (Soup vice versa. or to go, a great way Mokka is the city Pizza in town. You cials. We recommend in Bread) and also in to enjoy your morning the quite addictive their romantic atmo- Við Tjörnina center´s oldest cof- will have to find out Templarasund 3 | E7 boost. fee joint and founder yourself. However they chicken tikka masala. sphere. Good for a few early evening drinks. A Reykjavík classic Kaffivagninn of Icelandic coffee have the most original Silfur with menu exclusively Grandagarður 10 culture. Regular art menu written on the Pósthússtræti 11 | E6 Sægreifinn of traditional cuisine, | D1 exhibits are always wall and the Pesto Extravagant upscale Verbuð 8, Geirsgata as frequented by tour- By the harbor, this worth a look. Pizza is outstanding! restaurant situated in | D5 ists as it is by locals. A lunch and coffee place Nonnabiti Prikið the Hotel Borg. The Right next to the perfect opportunity to is a gathering place for Hafnarstræti 9 | E6 Bankastræti 12 | F6 new French style harbor, Sægrefinn fish try Icelandic delicacies. all sorts of tough folks. “Nonni” is one of the Part of the Reykjavík cuisine is brought shop is like none other If you want traditional with professional and in the country. With a Vitabar more popular junk- bar scene for decades, Bergþórugata 21 | H9 Icelandic food, a great food places in town, this café/bar has a friendly service, you diverse fish selection, place to see another get a selection of fin- exquisite lobster soup Really a bar, but best renowned for its fairly cheap menu and known for its ham- side of Reykjavík. greasy sandwiches attracts a mix of stu- est wines and you can and good service, an choose from an exotic absolute must-try. burgers. Burger and Kebabhúsið and its unique Nonni- dents and old regulars. fries for 500 one of Austurstræti 2 | E6 sauce. Open late for Mostly R&B and Hip- and excellent menu Tapas – assuming that you the best deals in town, The name says it all, midnight cravings. Hop on weekends. Vesturgata 3B | D5 but Forget-Me-Not really. can afford the not less For those with a bit O Sushi Ráðhúskaffi | D7 extravagant prices. blue cheese and Garlic Kofi Tómasar Lækjargata 2A | E6 Tjarnargata 11 of money and time to Extravaganza are alse Frænda Also called “The Located in the City Sjávarkjallarinn spare, Tapas serves winners. Laugavegur 2 | F7 Train”, O Sushi’s most Hall with a great view Aðalstræti 2 | D6 course after course of Nestled in a basement intriguing feature is of the pond, this café Elegant Seafood Cellar delightful miniature location, Uncle Tom´s a conveyor belt that has a good selection focuses on gourmet dishes. Also serves Cabin has the feeling runs around the entire of pastries and a good seafood and tantaliz- tasty and unusually af- Useful Numbers A B C D E F Emergency number: 112 Police: 444 1000 Medical help: 1770 Dental emergency: 575 0505 AA: 551 2010 1 Information: 118 Telegrams: 146 Tax Free Refund ð Iceland Refund, Fiskisló A›alstræti 2, Tel: 564 6400 www.is.eurorefund.com 2 Opening Hours Grandagarður Bars and clubs: According to regula- tions bars may be open until 01:00 on weekdays and 05:30 on weekends. Shops: Mon-Fri 10-18, Sat 10-16, Sun closed. The shopping centres Kringlan The Old Harbour and Smáralind as well as most super- 3 markets and tourist shops have longer Ánanaust M opening hours. ýra rgat Swimming pools: a weekdays 06:30-22:30, weekends 08:00- Nýlenduga 20:30 although some may be open an ta hour longer. svegur 4 amne The State owned ÁTVR liquor stores: Fr Ránargat Mon-Thu 11-18, Fri 11-19, Sat 11-18. Vesturgat a Banks in the centre are open Mon-Fri Bárugat a Geirsgata

09-16. a a Tourist Information Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Icelandic Travel Market Æ Tryggvag Bankastræti 2, Tel: 522 4979, 5 Tourist Information Centre rðastræti at a a A›alstræti 2, Tel: 590 1550, G H Skú Sæbrau Túngat afnars www.visitreykjavik.is a Austurst træti lagat t Both tourist infos offer information for ræti Lindargat a tourists as well as providing internet a 4 a access, booking service, a phone centre, Ban kastræt Sæbraut money exchange service, tax refund and 6 Hver ígur selling the Reykjavík Tourist Card. The i 6 fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i a Reykjavík Tourist Card gives admission i ækjargata a L lapparst to city busses, various museums, Reyk- sstræt5 K ta javík swimming pools, The Family Park i L augavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut rga gholt and Reykjavík Zoo, The Culture House Va ún n Ingólfsstræt Borgart Þi and the National and University Library. arstræt Suðu ð rnargata H a ta Sk ver Getting Around 7 Tj ólavör fisgat a Public Transport Bergs ð tígur The only public transport system in L us City Pond aufásvegur tígur Reykjavík is the bus. Most busses run ev- Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur a rakkas La ery 20 minutes and price per fare is 280 íki F ugavegur a r Nó F ISK for adults and 100 ISK for children. Óðinsgata ígur st Grettisg Complete route map at: www.bus.is. Tel: ta ata 540 2700 Vi 8 Njálsga Hátún Busses run from 07:00-24:00 on week- a t Snorrabraut days and 10:00-24:00 on weekends kimelur a Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Taxi Baldursgat a Laugavegur Hreyfill-Bæjarlei›ir, Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt Tel: 553 3500 or 588 5522 Bragagat BSR, Tel: 561 0000 Njarðargat

9 uðarárstígur For disabled travellers: Skipholt Reykjavík Group Travel Service, ta r Ra Skipholt Bergst Brunasta›ir 3, Tel: 587 8030, rga Eiríksgata www.randburg.com/is/reykjavik_group_ Barónsstígu tún Hljómskáli aðarstræti a travel_service/ Suðu Hringbrau Park Nó L Airlines aufásvegur t t Air Iceland, Reykjavíkurflugvöllur, 10 Tel: 570 3030, www.flugfelag.is Háteigsv Read every Snorrabraut egur Air Vestmannaeyjar, unnarsbrau Tel: 481 3255, www.eyjaflug.is G Grapevine Bus Terminal Flókagat Vat rstígur article ever at BSÍ, Vatnsm‡rarvegur 10, 1 nsmýrarvegur a Tel: 562 1011, www.bsi.is Gamla Hringbraut uðará ta Flybus 11 Ra grapevine.is Busses run daily from the BSÍ Bus and browse Terminal to Keflavík International Njarðarga Miklatún Airport in connection with all departing íð PDFs of all flights. Departures daily from 04:45 to Bus terminal Hringbra 15:00/16:30 (every 15 - 60 minutes). For ut ngahl La Ból Flybus time schedule see: staðarhlí Mi back issues! www.flybus.is klabr ð 12 aut Samferda.net glumýrarbraut in A reasonable choice for the budget Kr traveller. You log on to the website www. samferda.net, choose your destination and hopefully find a travel buddy to share the cost. 13 Domestic Airport

www.grapevine.is Go to Grapevine.is for daily news, opinions, event listings and exclusive articles. G H I J K L M N

Reykjavík What’s this ð Center thing? 2 Fiskisló City Map These things are pretty useful, check it out: Every venue that’s mentioned in our Grandagarður info section gets a little marker like this, which will help you locate it on our map. Say you want to try out “Kaffismiðjan” after reading our review - no problem, sir, just look up the corresponding icon The Old Harbour on the map!

Ánanaust M ýra rgat a Nýlenduga ta svegur amne Fr Ránargat Vesturgat a Bárugat a Geirsgata a a Öldugat gisgat Bræðraborgarstígur a Æ Tryggvag rðastræti at a a G H Skú Sæbrau Túngat afnars a Austurst træti lagat t ræti Lindargat a a a Ban Sæbraut kastræt Hver i fisgat Hofsvallagat Sólvallagat i i a

ækjargata 7 a L lapparstígur sstræt K ta 3 i L augavegur tnsstígur Hringbraut rga gholt Va ún n Ingólfsstræt Borgart Þi arstræt Suðu ð rnargata H a ta Sk ver Tj ólavör fisgat a Bergs

ð tígur L us City Pond aufásvegur tígur Skúlagat tún rkjuvegur a rakkas La íki F ugavegur a r Nó F 2 Óðinsgata ígur st Grettisg ta a Vi ta Njálsga Hátún a kimelur ta Snorrabraut Bir Bergþórugat Barónsstígur Baldursgat a Laugavegur Sóleyjargata a a Brautarholt Ristorante \Bar

Bragagat Njarðargat

uðarárstígur Skipholt ta r Ra Skipholt rga Bergst Eiríksgata Barónsstígu tún Suðu Hringbrau Hljómskáli aðarstræti a Park Nó L aufásvegur t t Háteigsv Snorrabraut egur unnarsbrau G

gur Flókagat Va tnsmýrarvegur árstí a

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Njarðarga Miklatún Bus terminal Hringbra íð ut ngahl La Ból staðarhlí Mi klabr ð aut glumýrarbraut

in

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Domestic Airport

ORIGINAL INDIAN & PAKISTANI TASTE

INDIAN INDIAN LUNCH DINNER 1290.- INDIAN - PAKISTANI CUISINE 1490.- AUSTURSTRÆTI 4, Tel. 551 0292 www.shalimar.is 18 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings Music Grapevine Grassroots #2

Just when the good people of Nýlen- Arnljótur Sigurðsson and supported by They clame their influcences are surf duvöruverzlun Hemma & Valda have Gogoyoko.com. rock and psychadelia and have been finally finished wiping up the sweat The bands lined up for the second creating a big buzz at Reykjavík’s bars from our decidedly awesome and totally edition are Skelkur í bringu, Me, the over the last few months. Stay tuned. engorging Grapevine Grassroots night Slumbering Napoleon and Kid Twist. #1 – we up and announce another Skelkur í bringu have been playing Who: one. Sorry guys, but the fun we had last for two years and do a strange sort of Skelkur í bringu, Me, the Slum- time was too good to pass on another experimental rock with a lyrical twist. bering Napoleon, Kid Twist go. So there you go: We hereby prompt Me, the Slumbering Napoleon describe Where: you to show up to the second edition themselves as a four piece complex Nýlenduvöruverzlun of Grapevine Grassroots, a series of rock band gone simple. They are releas- Hemma & Valda, shows meant to promote and support ing their first album, The Bloody Core Laugavegur 21, the many excellent up and coming Of It, this summer, a purported ode to 101 Reykjavík 3 G7 bands and musicians currently making violence: mental, physical, sexual and When: their names in Iceland. As before, the spiritual. Kid Twist on the other hand is March 20th at 9 PM show is hosted by young scene maestro a feedbacking garage/psych/rock band.

Music Music Art GUSGUS The The Last ARE BACK Icelandic Silent Movie

Shine your shoes, comb your hair, tuck Music An exhibition by renowned artist Susan in your shirt: GusGus are back! Friday Hiller is currently on display at Gallery March 20th, the local legends will return Experiments 101 located at until the 5th of April. to the stage at NASA, and as anyone The exhibition is composed of a video can tell you their parties at the club have Músíktilraunir (“music experiments”) installation, with sound and 24 etchings. gained legendary status in Reykjavík’s are a milestone in the grassroots music The video/sound piece is composed of nightlife as jam-packed orgies of sweat, scene in Iceland. This Icelandic equiva- sound recordings of 24 individuals, who destruction and slinky disco beats. The lent of Battle of the bands has stayed each speak in their native tongue. All band has just finished its sixth long strong for 27 years, and has helped of their languages are now extinct or player, 24/7, due out in June. GusGus many of Icelands most important art- in great danger of extinction, with less last played Reykjavík at the Airwaves ists gain their footing. Allowing young then ten people speaking them. Born in festival and have since then kept busy musicians to step forth and perform on Tallahassee Florida, Hiller now lives and playing such places as Moscow, Tokyo a semi-professional level and expose works out of London and Berlin. Work- and Berlin, ringing in full houses and five themselves to others makes this one of ing with everything from drawing and star reviews wherever they set foot. And the most important events in the music photography to installation and video seeing that GusGus have packed NASA year for the grassroots scene and pretty art. Susan is as also known for her criti- to the brims without fail every single time much anyone interested in fresh new cal writing, with up to ten publications they’ve played there, their return to the music. The festival will be held for the of her own writing on various topics stage should be a rock solid guarantee 27th time this year and will consist of such as cultural politics, gender, femi- for fun. So head to Nasa on the 20th and four semi-final nights from March 27 nism, psychoanalysis, post-colonialism, dance your ass off – be sure to score a to March 30 and a final night on April the paranormal and dreams. Susan ticket at www.midi.is or any of the Skífan 4. The registration of bands will end Hiller’s works have been described as stores in advance. on March 13 and a 6000 ISK entry fee an ‘investigation of the cultural uncon- is required. The event will be held at sciousness’ because of its focus on the What: the Icelandic Opera except for the final ‘in-between’, the overlooked and the GusGus night, which will be held at Hafnarhúsið unexplored. The Gallery is open from Where: Wednesday to Saturday from 14-17. Nasa, Austurvöllur, What: Þorvaldsenstræti 2, Battle of the Bands Where: 101 Reykjavík Where: Gallery 101, / DV When: The Icelandic Opera Hverfisgata 18a, Friday, March 20. Ingólfsstræti 2a, 101 Reykjavík 101 Reykjavík Final night at Hafnarhúsið When: When: February 28 – April 5 4 E6 March 27 – March 30 Finals at April 4 6 F6 5 F7 19 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings

If you would like to be included Celtic Cross Sólon in the Grapevine listings, free of 01:00 Live Music. 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday charge, contact the Grapevine by Café Cultura Session. email at [email protected]. 22:00 Maggi Lego Dj’s. Dubliner Tuesday mar 10 22:30 Live Music. English Pub Borgarleikhúsið 22:00 Live Music. 20:00 Hörður Torfason’s Candlelight Music & Hressó concert.Story telling and music with one of Icelands most beloved musician. UPCOMING 22:00 Band Menn Ársins in concert Entertainment followed by DJ Maggi. 4500ISK. Jacobsen Dubliner FRIDAY Mar 6 22:00 Hyper Island Episode, DJ Ya- 22:30 Live Music. CONCERTS Oliver maho, Danny Digital and Damien Eie. 22:00 Raggi Trubador (Live Karaoke). Kaffibarinn ELFA RÚN/BRINGUIER Bar 11 Guests can sing songs accompanied by 23:45 Gísli Galdur. THURSDAY MARCH 12TH @ 7.30 pm 00:00 DJ Biggi. Oliver’s troubador Raggi. NASA Café Amsterdam Q-Bar Conductor | Lionel Bringuier 20:00 U2 Tribute Band- over 20’s. 22:00 Bárujárn, Kid Twist, Skelkur í 23:00 Open mic night with Elín Ey & Soloist | Elfa Rún Kristinsdóttir 1500ISK. Bringu and Jökul in a live concert. Myrra. 23:00 Sáliu Hans Jóns Mins - over 20’s. Esa-Pekka Salonen | Helix 500ISK. Rósenberg Oliver Ludwig van Beethoven | Symphony no. 4 Café Cultura 20:00 The Andrés Þórs Trio in concert. 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Salurinn (Kópavogi) Sergei Prokofiev | Violin Concerto no. 2 22:00 Cultura Student Party. Prikið 20:00 “At the harpsichord” with Jónas Café Paris 22:00 DJ Danni Delux. AHS70 – AN ANNIVERSARY CONCERT Ingimundarson. 0ISK 22:00 Cocktail Night. Q-Bar THURSDAY MARCH 19TH @ 7.30 pm Celtic Cross 23:00 K.G.B. 01:00 Live Music. Salurinn (Kópavogi) WEDNESDAY mar 11 Conductor | Baldur Brönnimann Dubliner 13:00 Carnival of the animals. Teach- Soloist | Melkorka Ólafsdóttir ers from the musical academy of 22:30 Live Music. Dubliner Atli Heimir Sveinsson | Flute Concerto Kópavogur in concert. 1500ISK. English Pub 22:30 Live Music Salurinn (Kópavogi) Atli Heimir Sveinsson | Hreinn Gallerý SÚM 22:00 Live music 17:00 Passions of the ages. Songs of Café Cultura Atli Heimir Sveinsson | Symphony nr. 6 Grand Rokk the young people in concert. 2500ISK. 21:00 Female Frequenzies: Session 21:00 Man, Gjöll, Krakkbot, AMFJ, Fist PETER AND THE WOLF – A FAMILY CONCERT SAMbíóin (kringlunni 1: Ísabella Magnúsdóttir, Elín Ey and Fokkers and DLX ATX together in an all SATURDAY, MARCH 21ST @ 2 pm out rock festival. 18:00 A Live feed via satellite from the Brutal Princess in concert. Hressó Metropolitan Opera. Puccini’s Madame Kaffibarinn Conductor | Kurt Kopecky 22:00 Blues-funk band B3 in concert Butterfly. 1900ISK. 22:00 FKNHNDSM DJs. Host | Halldór Gylfason followed by DJ Maggi. Sódóma Reykjavík Prikið 22:00 Milknight with DJ K-Man, large Sergei Prokofiev | Peter and the Wolf Jacobsen 21:00 Dust, Nögl and Sign in concert. 800ISK . beer for 490ISK. Tryggvi M. Baldvinsson | The Maiden in the Tower 22:00 Absoloute Disco Frisco. Various Sólon Q-Bar DJ’s playing. 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. 22:00 Pub Quiz. NEW YORK – PARIS – NEW YORK The Icelandic Opera Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- Rósenberg THURSDAY, MARCH 26TH @ 7.30 pm 16:00 A concert where singing and val Sólon. 22:00 Joenne and band will be per- Conductor | Benjamin Shwartz piano pieces by Wagner will be per- forming irish folk music. Soloist | Karin Lechner formed. Possible entry fee. SUNDAY mar 8 Darius Milhaud | La Création du Monde Kaffibarinn THURSDAY mar 12 23:45 Terrordisco & Don Balli Funk. George Gershwin | An American in Paris Dubliner NASA Bar 11 George Gershwin | Piano Concerto in F 22:30 Live Music. 00:00 FLASS 104.5 & Cult introduce 22:00 Upstairs: Crisis Night X-977 with Leonard Bernstein | Symphonic Dances from West Side Story Chris Lake -over 20’s. 2000 ISK. Jacobsen Bárujarn and Reykjavík! Oliver 22:00 Waffle Cineman: Movies by Downstairs: DJ Ómar from radio X-977. 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. director Ingmar Bergman will be on Café Cultura Prikið display. 21:00 Electro band Anonymous in 22:00 DJ Gísli Galdur, with Addi Tromm Leikfélag Akureyrar concert. and Guðni Bassi. 16:00 North Iceland Symphony Orches- Dubliner Tickets sold at www.sinfonia.is Q-Bar tra in concert. “Ad Lucem” by com- 22:30 Live Music. or tel. 545 2500. 23:00 DJ Svenni. poser Óliver Kentish will be premiered. All concerts take place in Háskólabíó. Rósenberg 1500ISK. English Pub 22:00 Drama company “Vanir Menn” Prikið 22:00 Live Music. will be performing a play. 22:00 Hangover cinema with poppcorn Fífan (Kópavogi) Salurinn (Kópavogi) and Coke. 19:30 Queen tribute concert with Mag- 21:00 Jazz concert in Tíbrá. Larry Q-Bar ni Ásgeirsson, Eiríkur Hauksson, Hera Coryell with Björn Thoroddsen and Jón 23:00 Every Fancied DJ at Q-Bar- Open Björk and the choir of Fjölbrautaskóli Rafnsson. 2500ISK. Deck Night with cheap beers all night. Suðurlands which counts 50 members. Sódóma Reykjavík Rósenberg 3900ISK. 21:00 Sódóma opening night. Sign, 22:00 Rökkurró in Concert. Háskólabíó Esja, Deep jimi and the Zep Creams, Dr Sólon 19:30 The Icelandic Symphony Orches- Spock and Langi Seli & Nýju Skuggarnir tra in concert. 3500ISK. 20:00 University Dance. in concert. Free entrance. Hressó Sólon 22:00 Troubadours Jógvan and Vignir 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday Monday mar 9 play. Session. Jacobsen FRIDAY, 6th MARCH Dubliner 22:00 Monitor - launch party (invitation >> Fistfokkers, DLX ATX, AMFJ, Krakkbot, Gjöll. SATURDAY mar 7 22:30 Live Music. only). Rósenberg Kaffibarinn Bar 11 20:00 Hilmar Garðarsson will be per- 23:45 Benni B Ruff (TBC). SATURDAY, 7th MARCH 00:00 DJ Ómar. forming. Oliver Café Amsterdam SAMbíóin (kringlunni) 22:00 Oliver Funk band in concert. >> Modd and others. 01:00 suprise concert with punk band 19:00 A Live feed via satellite from the Burger or nachos for 500 ISK and a Fræblarur concert followed by DJ Metropolitan Opera. Puccini’s Madame large beer for 500 ISK. Sesar. Butterfly. 1900ISK. FRIDAY, 13th MARCH >> Grapevine concert. Music & Entertainment | Venue finder Amsterdam Roomy bar floor, nice has pretty good music, Tap beer and music place to sneak off to and poetry. You name it, they SATURDAY, 14th MARCH Hafnarstræti 5 | E6 sofas and stylish interior too. The mix of students makes a fair hangout on chat with friends over a got it. Kaffi Amsterdam seems make this a comfy café and tattooed tough guys weekends. beer. Frequented also Sódóma Reykjavík >> Deep Jimi & The Zep Creams. to have been around as well as a tavern with always creates a fun Hverfisbarinn by the literary and act- Tryggvagata 22 | E5 forever, though recently good, unintrusive music. atmosphere. Hverfisgata 20 | G6 ing elite. Sódóma Reykjavík is a it’s been reinvented as a Café Cultura Dubliner After a long line, you’ll Óliver brand new venue for live FRIDAY, 20th MARCH live venue. Good music, Hverfisgata 18 | G6 Hafnarstræti 4 | E5 get in and wonder what Laugavegur 20A | H7 music in Reykjavík. It is cheap beer, and colorful Cultura is a café/bar with The city’s main Irish pub all the fuss was about. This nightclub attracts located on the upper >> Lame Dudes and a Serbian band. characters to be found. a party feel. The menu attracts quite a lot of for- You may end up here if a crowd of crazy danc- floor on the old Gaukur Apótek features all sorts of inter- eigners, though there´s you’re still going at 4 on ers that may not be for on Stöng and was build Austurstræti 16 | E5 national dishes, alongside an influx of locals on a Sunday morning, in everyone. In which case, up for people to really Sporting a chic and pris- the staple salad and weekends. Good if you’re which case it’s just as air conditioning and fine enjoy live music. SATURDAY, 4th APRIL tine interior with a healthy sandwich. looking for the darker good as any. food make Oliver a good Sólon club atmosphere. Café Paris stuff on tap. Kaffi Hljómalind lunch spot. Bankastræti 7A | F5 >> Punknight. B5 Austurstræti 14 | E5 Glaumbar Laugavegur 23 | G6 Ölstofan Truly a jack of all trades Bankastræti 5 | F6 With an outdoor terrace, Tryggvagata 20 | E4 This organic, free-trade Vegamótastígur | G6 establishment. By night By day a chic little bistro this café gets busy on The premier sports bar café prides itself not only No tricks here. You’ll a decent restaurant, by with good food and a sunny days. With a cosy in town, though after the on great food and coffee want just simple beer in day a café/bistro and WEDNESDAY, 8th APRIL prime location for Lau- interior, fine menu and final whistle, DJs take the but being a strong cul- this simple pub. Also the on Friday and Saturday gavegur people watching attentive service, it makes floor and begin a night of tural center, hosting live hangout for Reykjavík nights a nightclub. Art >> Jan Mayen and others. | by night a stylish bar a fine spot for evening feverish dancing. music as well as lectures intellectual circles exhibitions on the walls with a “whiskey room” dining as well. Grand Rokk and poetry nights. Prikið to top it off. and manhattanesque Balthazar Smiðjustígur | G6 Kaffibarinn Bankastræti | F5 Thorvaldsen FRIDAY, 10th APRIL clientele. Hafnarstræti 1-3| D4 As its Viking theme ac- Bergstraðastræti 1 | F6 Part of the Reykjavík Austurstræti 8 | E5 Bar 11 Victor attracts a diverse curately displays, this A popular place to grab bar scene for decades, Dress formally for this >> Grapevine concert. Laugavegur 11 | G6 crowd, both in age and hardcore chess hangout a drink after work, this this café/bar has a fairly fancy spot, and come The sweatiest Rock origin, a rule that extends is no place for the lily daytime coffee joint roils cheap menu and attracts before 12 to avoid a long joint on the northern to the musicians that livered. Take the pub quiz with nighttime activity a mix of students and old line. DJs play Thursdays, hemisphere. Mötley Crüe play there. on Fridays at 17.30, the on weekends with live regulars. R&B and Hip- Fridays and Saturdays. >> The Champions League live would have played this Celtic Cross winner gets a free case DJs. Parties often pound Hop plays on weekends. Vegamót bar 25 years ago and still Hverfisgata 26 | H6 of beer! until dawn. Q-Bar Vegamótastígur 4 | G6 be talking about it. Arguably the most au- Highlander NASA Ingólfstræti 3 | F6 Vegamót´s kitchen is Bjarni Fel thentic Irish pub outside Lækjargata 10 | E7 Þorvaldsenstræti 2| E6 A roomy gay/straight bar. open until 22.00 daily Austurstræti 20 | E5 Ireland, a very lively If you prefer Scottish to The main live venue in Some of the best DJs in and sports an appealing Named after the Ice- space where you’ll often Irish, this might be the town. If you are look- town play regularly, mak- lunch menu. Come for a land’s most legendary find live music, some- place for a single malt. ing for a decent band, ing it an especially lively tasty brunch on week- sports commentator, this times two bands playing Hressó chances are you’ll find it space on weekends. ends. If you like Óliver, try is the place for the three at once. Austurstræti 20 | E5 at NASA. Rósenberg Vegamót and vice versa. Bs: ball, burger and beer. Dillon With a spacious neutral Næsti Bar Klapparstígur 25 | G7 The party goes on late. Boston Laugavegur 30 | H7 interior, pleasant court- Ingólfstræti 1A | F6 On Live music venue that Laugavegur 28b | H6 The quintessential rock yard and a varied lunch nights where queues has something to offer Grand Rokk >> Smiðjustígur 6 >> 101 Reykjavík A fresh addition to the pub Dillion serves mod- menu, Hressó attracts snake down Laugavegur, every single night, rang- Reykjavík bar scene. erately priced drinks, and no specific type of crowd. Næsti Bar can be great ing from rock to jazz to 20 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings

Prikid Hressó 22:00 DJ Gauti. 22:00 Band Napoleon in concert fol- Tuesday mar 17 10 SAVETA ZA DOBRO Q-Bar lowed by DJ Erling. 22:00 YouTube night with Unnar An- Jacobsen Dubliner DUŠEVNO ZDRAVLJE drea. 22:00 DJ Sexy Lazer and Hunk of a Man 22:30 Live Music. Rósenberg Oliver on the lower level. 22:00 Janis Joplin tribute. Actors and 22:00 Raggi Trubador (Live Karaoke). 1. Razmišljajmo pozitivno, lakše je Kaffibarinn musicians from recent Janis Joplin Guests can sing songs accompanied by 23:00 Fancy Dress Party. 2. Vodimo računa o onome što nam je drago musical will be performing. Oliver’s troubador Raggi. The Icelandic Opera Sólon Q-Bar 3. Učimo dok god živimo 20:00 The Primadonnas. Four Icelandic 23:00 Ground floor: DJ Áki Pain. 22:00 Seth Sharpe. opera singers in concert. Auður Gun- 4. Učimo na vlastitim greškama Upstairs: Ingó Idol with green thursday Rósenberg narsdóttir, Elín Ósk Óskarsdóttir, Hulda session. 21:00 Trúbatrixur. Ten female Trouba- 5. Krećimo se svakodnevno, to popravlja Björk Garðarsdóttir og Þóra Einarsdót- raspoloženje tir. 4200ISK dors will be performing. FRIDAY mar 13 NASA 6. Ne komplikujmo život bez razloga 00:00 Techno.is - over 20’s. WEDNESDAY mar 18 7. Trudimo se da razumemo i podržavamo ljude Bar 11 Græni hatturinn(Akureyri) 00:00 DJ Ómar. 20:00 Af fingrum fram concert series, Café Cultura oko nas Café Cultura now with Magnús Eiríksson Icelandic 21:00 Female Frequenzies: Session 2: composer in concert. 2500ISK. 8. Ne odustajmo, uspeh u životu je trka na duge 21:00 DJ Gísli Galdur. DJ Flugvél og Geimskip and Kira Kira in Oliver Café Paris concert. daljine 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. 22:00 Cocktail Night. Dubliner 9. Pronađimo i negujmo vlastite talente Prikið Celtic Cross 22:00 DJ Addi Intro. 22:30 Live Music. 10. Postavimo si cilj i ispunimo svoje snove 01:00 Live Music. Q-Bar Prikið 22.00 Milknight with House DJ. large Dubliner 23:00 Steed Lord, Who´s The Black Private Dicks, Thats A Sex machine To beer for 490ISK. 22:30 Live Music. Q-Bar English Pub All The Chicks, SHAFT. Rósenberg 22:00 Pub Quiz Night. 22:00 Live Music. Rósenberg Hressó 22:00 Bjarki Sigurðsson, better known 22:00 Band Árstíðir in concert. 22:00 Band Góðir Landsmenn in con- as B Sig in, concert. cert followed by DJ Erling. Sódóma Reykjavík 21:00 Ingi, The Giant Viking Show and Jacobsen THURSDAY mar 19 cult hero Bjartmar Guðlaugsson in 22:00 Voodoo Take 2. Yamaho vs Karius concert. 500ISK. Café Cultura & Baktus. Sólon Kaffibarinn 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. 21:00 Cultura Pop Quiz. 23:45 Maggi Lego. Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- Dubliner NASA val Sólon. 22:30 Live Music. 00:00 Óstaðfest- over 20’s. Háskólabíó Oliver Sunday mar 15 19:30 In celebration of Atli Heimir 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. composer’s seventieth birthday the Prikið Icelandic Symphonie Orchestra will be Selection of elegant Gabor shoes 22:00 Trans Kvintett followed by DJ Dubliner playing. 3500ISK. Danni Deluxe. 22:30 Live Music. English Pub Q-Bar Græni hatturinn(Akureyri) 22:00 Live Music and bags. 22:00 DJ Anna Rakel. 20:00 Af fingrum fram concert series, Hressó Rósenberg now with Magnús Eiríksson Icelandic 22:00 Troubadours Böddi & Dabbi play. 22:00 Bjarki Sigurðsson, better known Quality and good price. composer in concert. 2500ISK. Jacobsen as B Sig, in concert. Prikið 22:00 Live Music Venue. Solo artists Sódóma Reykjavík 22:00 Hangover Cinema with Popcorn 21:00 Dr Spock and special guests & Coke. will be performing. playing a live concert. 1000ISK. Q-Bar Oliver Sólon 23:00 Every Fancied DJ at Q-Bar- Open 22:00 Trans Quintett in concert. Burger 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday Deck Night with cheap beers all night. or nachos for 500 ISK and a large beer Session. Rósenberg for 500 ISK. 21:00 Halli Davíðs Troubador in concert. Prikið SATURDAY mar 14 Sólon 22.00 DJ Árni Kocoon. 20:00 University Dance. Q-Bar 22:00 Diva De La Rosa. Bar 11 Rósenberg 00:00 DJ Gulli. Monday mar 16 22:00 Robin Nolan Trio in concert. Café Amsterdam Sólon 01:00 DJ Fúsi. Dubliner 23:00 Ground floor: DJ Áki Pain. Café Cultura 22:30 Live Music. Upstairs: Ingó Idol with green thursday 21:00 Karius & Baktus. Rósenberg session. Celtic Cross 21:00 Anna María and a an FÍH based 01:00 Live Music. Jazz band in concert. Friday mar 20 Dubliner Sólon 20:00 Salsa with Salsa Iceland. 22:30 Live Music. Bar 11 English Pub 00:00 DJ Biggi. 22:00 Live Music. Café Cultura 23:00 DJ Margeir. Art | Venue finder 101 Gallery Gallery Dwarf hosts Wed–Sat 12–17 Hitt Húsið The city’s public art Hverfisgata 18A | F6 exhibitions which www.galleriagust.is – Gallery Tukt gallery features works Thu–Sat 14–17 and by speak straight to the Gallerí Ágúst is a Pósthússtræti 3-5 by Icelandic artists. The National Gallery appointment hearts of the “cute” contemporary art | E6 Reykjavík Art of Iceland www.101hotel. generation. gallery in the centre www.hitthusid.is Museum Fríkirkjuvegur 7 | E8 is/101hotel/101gallery/ The Einar Jónsson of Reykjavík. With an Initially thought of Open daily 10–16 Tue–Sun 11–17 Located in the 101 Museum ambitious programme as a hobby centre to www.listasafnreykja- of exhibitions, it also www.listasafn.is Hotel, features a Eiriksgata | G9 keep the youth from vikur.is Houses the national broad selection of Tue–Sun 14–17 presents and sells art- drinking, Hitt húsið is Ásmundur Sveinsson art collection and is international and local www.skulptur.is work of Icelandic and still operational and Sculpture Museum the centre of research contemporary art. Features a permanent international artists. organises events as Sigtún and documentation of Artótek exhibition on the Gallery Fold well as hosting art Hafnarhús exhibitions in their Gal- Icelandic art. Tryggvagata 15 | D5 sculptor Einar Jónsson Rauðarástígur 14-16 Tryggvagata 17 | E5 Mon 10–21, Tue–Thu as well as temporary | J9 lery – Gallery Tukt. The National Kjarvalsstaðir 10–19, Fri 11–19, Sat exhibits. Mon–Fri 10–18 / Sat i8 Gallery Museum Flókagata | K11 Suðurgata 41 | C9 and Sun 13–17 Fótógrafí 11–16 / Sun 14–16 Klapparstígur 33 | G7 Specialising in Open daily 10–17 www.sim.is/Index/ Skólavörðustígur 4a www.myndlist.is Tue–Fri 11–17 / Sat contemporary art by More of an art auction natmus.is/ local and international Islenska/Artotek | F7 13–17 and by appoint- Established in 1863, An Icelandic art www.fotografi.is than just a gallery, Fold ment. www.i8.is artists. Free entrance. this museum features exhibition space and Features photographic also evaluates and Represents work by an Reykjavík City exhibits on Icelandic art dealer. Pieces are exhibitions by local exhibits art. eclectic mix of Icelan- Theatre cultural heritage. available for purchase photographers. Gallery Kling & Bang dic and international Listabraut 3 or lease. contemporary artists. The Nordic House Gallery 100° Hverfisgata 42 | G7 Presenting Icelandic Sturlugata 5 | C11 ASÍ Art Museum Bæjarháls 1 Thurs–Sun from 14–18 Living Art Museum music and dance Tue–Sun 12–17 Freyugata 41 | G10 www.or.is/Forsida/Gal- this.is/klingogbang/ Vatnsstígur 3 – G7 performances as well www.nordice.is/ Tue–Sun 13–17 lery100/ Exhibits upcoming Wed, Fri–Sun 13–17 / as dramatic theatre, Explores and promotes Run by the ASÍ labour Open weekdays from and established Thu 13–22. www.nylo.is produces six new Scandinavian culture union, features mostly 08:30–16:00 contemporary artists A non-profit gallery shows each year. with regular lectures, www.xena.is contemporary Icelan- An art museum run as well as hosting that organises 8–10 Reykjavík Maritime films and exhibitions. dic art. Free entry. by the Orkuveita screenings, lectures larger exhibitions every Museum and performances. Árbæjarsafn Reykjavíkur energy year as well as other The Numismatic Grandagarður 8 | C3 Kistuhylur 4 corporation. Features Gallery Turpentine cultural events. Museum With a fishing trawler- An open-air museum contemporary art by Ingólfstræti 5 | F7 Lost Horse Gallery Einholt 4 | K9 turned-exhibit space, featuring arts-and- Icelandic and foreign Tue–Fri 12–18 / Sat Skólastræti 1 | F6 Open Mon–Fri educates on the crafts fairs and exhibi- artists. 11–16 Weekends from 13–19 13:30–15:30. maritime and fishing Presents a cultural his- tions in the summer. Gallery Auga fyrir www.turpentine.is and by appointment on traditions of Iceland. Houses a collection of tory of Iceland through The Culture House Auga weekdays. Reykjavík Museum Icelandic contempo- Located in a renovated analysis of collected Hverfisgata 15 | F6 Hverfisgata 35 | G7 of Photography rary artwork as well coins, medals and Open daily 11–17 Independently run stable off Laugavegur, Tryggvagata 16 | D5 as works from old books. www.thjodmenning.is art museum featuring features work by local Weekdays 12–19 / Icelandic masters both A Museum of Icelandic Icelandic art. artists. Reykjavík 871+/-2 Sat–Sun 13–17 for display and sale. Aðalstræti 17 | D6 cultural history, with Gallery StartArt Hafnarborg www.ljosmyndasafn- Gerðuberg Cultural Open daily 10–17 reykjavikur.is an ongoing exhibition Laugavegur 12B | G7 Strandgötu 34, Museum on the of the original manu- Tue–Sat 1–17 Centre Hafnarfjörður Features work by founding of Reykjavík. scripts of the sagas www.startart.is Gerðuberg 3-5 Hafnarborg is a mu- local and international Located in the oldest and eddas. Contemporary Mon–Thu 11–17 / Wed seum and venue in the photographers, as well 11–21 / Thu–Fri 11–17 house in the city. Tours as an archive on the Dwarf Gallery Icelandic and foreign center of Hafnarfjörður. / Sat–Sun 13–16 There are three exhibi- in English on Mondays history of photography. Grundarstígur 21 | H8 art. Admission is free www.gerduberg.is and Saturdays at 14.00 Opening Hours: Fri and the gallery is run tion galleries in the Sigurjón Ólafsson Located in Breiðholt, Glæsibæ - tel: 553 7060 and Sat 18–20 without any govern- museum and there is Reykjavík Art Gallery Museum the Gerðuberg cultural www.this.is/birta ment funding. also a café gallery and Skúlagata 28 | H6 Laugarnestangi 70 centre hosts both exhi- an entrance installa- Tuesday through An independently Gallery Ágúst Features a permanent Álfheimum 74 - 104 Reykjavík bitions and events. tion space. Sunday 14–18 exhibition of sculptor run basement Gallery, Baldursgata 12 | F9 21 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings Celtic Cross Q-Bar 01:00 Live Music. 23:00 Open mic night with Elín Ey & Myrra. Music Dubliner Rósenberg 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Swedish Trio in concert. PICK noise English Pub Sólon 22:00 Live Music. 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. Hressó Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- for free! 22:00 Band Dalton in concert followed val Sólon. by DJ Bjarni. Jacobsen 22:00 Party Zone. Már & Niels Wednesday mar 25 Dj-ing. Café Cultura Kaffibarinn 21:00 Female Frequenzies: Session 23:45 Gísli Galdur. 3: Unnur Andrea, Myrra Leifsdóttir Café Paris og Mr. Silla in concert. 22:00 Cocktail Night. NASA Dubliner 23:00 Gus Gus- Further Info Later. 22:30 Live Music. Oliver Q Bar 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. 22:00 Pub Quiz Night. Some of the most innovative upcoming Prikið Rósenberg bands in Reykjavík have joined forces 22:00 DJ Danni Boy. 21:00 Geirfuglarnir in concert. Q-Bar Prikið to present an awesome mixture of rock 23:00 Sexual Chocolate and Lingur. 22.00 House DJ, large beer 490ISK. and noise music experience. DLX ATX, Rósenberg Fist Fokkers, AMFJ, Krakkbot, Gjöll and 22:00 Robin Nolan Trio in concert. Thursday mar 26 ,516@7/6;6.9(7/: newcomers Man will rock the stage at Sódóma Reykjavík 21:00 Sing for me Sandra and Dikta in Grand Rock, TONIGHT, starting promptly concert. 1000ISK. Cafe Cultura HH>DC;G:: 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Salurinn (Kópavogi) Prikið Fashion 20:30 Af fingrum Fram. Magnús Þór 12.00 Paris Hilton Slutty Clothes Mar- Sigmundsson composer in concert. ket. Biennale 18:00 B- Ruff. 2900ISK. Q-Bar Iceland has been chosen to host the 23:00 Karíus and Baktus. Friday mar 27 first ever Nordic Fashion Biennale. Rósenberg 22:00 Robin Nolan Trio in concert. Focusing on the Western Scandina- Bar 11 Salurinn 00:00 DJ Gulli. 17:00 Guðrún Dalía. The songs of the vian Haute couture from the Faroe Café Cultura young in Tíbrá. 2500ISK. Islands, Greenland and Iceland. All 22:00 Weird Girls Party, Cocktail Vomit SAMbíóin (kringlunni the countries seldom collaborate in DJ set. 18:00 A Live feed via satellite from the design, even though strong links remain Celtic Cross Metropolitan Opera. Bellini’s La Son- outside this field. The premier show “ In nambula. 1900ISK. 01:00 Live Music. Front of Creativity” is expected to be a Sódóma Reykjavík Dubliner glamorous spectacle of originality and 21:00 Rock and roll extravaganza! 22:30 Live Music. Thingtak, What About?, Bad Carbura- English Pub inspirational design. The exhibition is a tor, Skorpulifur, Reykjavík! and Agent 22:00 Live Music. selection of work by curator Matthias Fresco. 1000ISK. Háskólabíó Wagner K who selected designers Sólon 21:00 Hear me now! New Yourk - New influenced by their native surroundings 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. Yourk. The Icelandic Symphony Or- Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- chestra in concert. 1000ISK. and society. Other events will consist of val Sólon. Hressó a discussion on sustainability in design, 22:00 Band Ímynd in concert followed especially in the fashion industry. Talks Sunday mar 22 by DJ Maggi. by up-and-coming designers, Nickie Jacobsen 22:00 DJ Maggi Lego aka Hunk of a Isaksen, STEiNUNN, Gudrun & Gudrun Dubliner Man. from Greenland, Iceland and Faroe Is- 22:30 Live Music. NASA lands. Preparing for the grand-finale on Jacobsen 23:00 Art School Fashion Show - Futher April 4th the organizers have prepared 22:00 Waffle Cinema: Modern Swedish Info Later. an fantastic event of live music and DJ films will be on display. Oliver Prikið 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. sets, with a special one-off design. The 22:00 Hangover Cinema. large beer for Prikið band Sigur Ros will produce signature 490ISK. 22:00 DJ Danni Deluxe. “Sigur-fokking Rós”, T-Shirts conceived Q-Bar Q-Bar 23:00 Manny. when making the latest album. Selling 23:00 Every Fancied DJ at Q-Bar- Open Deck Night with cheap beers all night. Rósenberg at the Biennale Bar and giving all pro- Sólon 22:00 South River Band plays Balkan ceeds to charity. Unconventionally, the 20:00 University Dance. Music. designers Alex and Lukka will be mak- Sódóma Reykjavík 21:00 Newcomers Cosmic Call and ing the last set of T-shirts on the night Monday mar 23 veterans Mammút in concert. as the DJ’s amuse the audience. Sólon Dubliner 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday Where: 22:30 Live Music. Session. Nordic House, Rósenberg 21:00 ATHDH. Óskar Guðjónsson saxo- Saturday mar 28 Sturlugata 5, phone player and his brothers in arms in concert. 101 Reykjavik Bar 11 Sólon When: 00:00 DJ Biggi. 20:00 Salsa with Salsa Iceland. March 19 – April 05 Café Cultura Tuesday mar 24 22:00 DJ Árni Sveins. Celtic Cross 1 C11 01:00 Live Music. Dubliner Dubliner 22:30 Live Music. Hressó 22:30 Live Music. 22:00 Troubadours Jogvan and Vignir. English Pub Oliver 22:00 Live Music. 22:00 Raggi Trubador (Live Karaoke). Hressó Guests can sing songs accompanied by 22:00 Troubadours Gotti & Eisi play, Oliver’s troubador Raggi. followed by DJ Maggi. 22 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings Jacobsen Rósenberg 22:00 Club Red Square: Kiddaz.FM 16:00 The Reykjavík Blues Festiva begins. Blues from 16:00 to 02:00 in the Night, Holgi Star and DJ Yamaho. Kaffibarinn night. 23:00 Kasper Björke & Special Guest Sólon (TBC) 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. NASA Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- 23:00 Skítamórall- over 20’s. val Sólon. Oliver 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Sunday apr 5 Prikið 22:00Addi Intro, 32 C and Forgotten Dubliner Lores. Q-Bar 22:30 Live Music. 23:00 Karí and Anna Brown- You Give Hressó Me Fever. 22:00 Troubadors Jógvan and Vignir. Rósenberg Q-Bar 22:00 South River Band plays Balkan 23:00 Every Fancied DJ at Q-Bar- Open Deck Night with cheap beers all night. music. Salurinn (Kópavogi) Sólon 20:30 Af fingrum fram. Valgeir Guðjóns- 23:00 Ground floor: Guest DJ. son in concert. 2900ISK. Upstairs: DJ Áki Pain with Dance festi- Sólon val Sólon. 20:00 University Dance. Sunday mar 29 Friday apr 6 Prikið 22:00 Hangover Cinema. with Popcorn Celtic Cross & Coke. 01:00 Live Music. Q-Bar Dubliner 23:00 Every Fancied DJ at Q-Bar- Open 22:30 Live Music. Deck Night with cheap beers all night. English Pub Sólon 22:00 Live Music. 20:00 University Dance. Hressó 22:00 Band Ímynd in concert followed Monday mar 30 by Dj Maggi. Oliver Sólon 23:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Prikið 20:00 Salsa with Salsa Iceland. 22:00 Milknight with DJ TBA, large beer 490ISK. Tuesday mar 31 Salurinn (Kópavogi) 20:30 Larry Coryell Jazz Concert. Rósenberg 2500ISK. 22:00 Trúbatrixur. Ten Female Trouba- Sólon dors will be performing. 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday Oliver Session. 22:00 Raggi Trubador (Live Karaoke). Guests can sing songs accompanied by Oliver’s troubador Raggi. Art WEdnesday apr 1 ASÍ Art Museum March 03 - March 29 Rings, optimal size. The main theme Dubliner of the exhibition is a research into the 22:30 Live Music. transference an artist feels when alone. Rósenberg The Culture House 22:00 Grímur Jazz band in concert. Permanent exhibitions: Medieval Manuscripts; The Library Room. Thursday apr 2 Current exhibitions: Surtsey – Genesis Dubliner The exhibition traces the emergence 22:30 Live Music. and evolution of the island Surtsey until the present day and predicts its English Pub geographical and ecological develop- 22:00 Live Music. ment over the next 120 years. Háskólabíó The Late View – Halldór Laxness’ Photo- 19:30 The creation - easter concert. graphs The Icelandic Symphony Orchestra in Nobel Laureate and cosmopolitan concert. 3500ISK. Halldór Laxness was better known for Hressó his writing but also proved to be a good Elegant surroundings 22:00 Troubadours Jógvan and Vignir photographer. This is an exhibition of play. his works. Superb cuisine Kaffibarinn Exhibition Series: Weird and Wonderful 23:45 B Ruff (TBC) Beasts from Icelandic Folklore by Jón Rósenberg Baldur Hlíðberg is an exhibition of illus- Modern comfort Preserving quality 22:00 Þórunn Pálína and her trio plays trations from his book on the magical creatures of Icelandic folklore. old school jazz music. is our business The Einar Jónsson Museum Sólon Permanent exhibition: 23:00 Ground floor: DJ Áki Pain. The work of sculptor Einar Jónsson. Open daily for lunch and dinners Upstairs: Ingó Idol with green thursday Gallery Ágúst Special off er on Monday session. March 08- March 31 (2009) Gallery Ágúst will be selling modern art and Tuesday – 3 course dinner Friday apr 3 and giving advice on buying art. for only 4200 ISK. Gallery Kling & Bang Feb 07 – Mar 08 Reservation: tel. 552 5700, Dubliner RETURN TICKET: is based on earlier 22:30 Live Music. work by Sara Riel, titled MADE IN e-mail: [email protected] English Pub CHINA, shown in Xiamen, China, in 22:00 Live Music. 2008. Gallery StartArt Hressó Feb 05- Mar 04 22:00 Band Dalton in concert followed 3 solo exhibtions: Arnar Herbertsson - by DJ Maggi. The world of Arnar Herbertsson, Bergstaðastræti 37 s. 552 5700 Oliver Guðrún Öyahals - Trackless Terrain. [email protected] www.holt.is 22:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Björk Viggósdóttir - Snowblind, START Nasa ART artists. Anna Eyjólfsdóttir, Ragnhil- 22:00 Eivør Pálsdóttir with band in dur Stefánsdóttir, Þuríður Sigurðardóttir concert. 2500ISK. Gallery Turpentine Sódóma Reykjavík Feb 22 - Mar 31 22:00 Nokia on Ice concert festial. Gallery Turpentine will be displaying Mammút, Sudden Weather Change, and selling works by mixed artists Cosmic Ball, Bárujárn and DJ Matti in Gerðuberg Cultural Centre concert. 2500ISK. Jan 18 - Mar 15 Rósenberg “It sounded as if the harp was weeping” 22:00 Halli Reynis troubador release An exhibition of puppets used in a presentation by Leikbrúðuland of some concert. episodes from Völsungasaga Sólon Jan 18 - Mar 01. 23:00 DJ Áki Pain with Lucky Friday Boginn gallery: From home and home- Session. land Water Colours by Hugi Jóhannes- son in the Boginn Exhibition Area. Mar 06 – Apr 19 Saturday apr 4 Boginn gallery: The Land in colour. Popular artist Guðráður Jóhannsson Dubliner exhibition of landscape paintings. 22:30 Live Music. Mar 21 English Pub A children’s books conference on 22:00 Live Music. young people’s literature Gljúfrasteinn Laxness Museum Hressó Gljúfrasteinn was the home and work- 22:00 Band Trans Quintett in concert place of Halldór Laxness (winner of the followed by DJ Bjarni. Nobel Prize for Literature in 1955) and Kaffibarinn his family for more than half a century. 22:00 Bedroom Community. It has now been opened to the public Oliver as a museum, unchanged from when 22:00 DJ Brynjar Már. Laxness lived there. Prikið Hafnarborg 22:00 Milknight with DJ TBA, large Exhibition: Essence - Helgi Gíslason beer 490ISK. i8 Gallery Jan 15 - Mar 22. Uplift Exhibition by 23 | The Reykjavík Grapevine | Issue 3 2009 Listings Hrafnkell Sigurdsson a series of sculp- tures and images encorporating various waste materials. Shopping Living Art Museum Mar 5- Show and See Series- Perfor- Venue finder mance by Dr Gunna at 20.00. 12 Tónar Kisuberjatréð Lost Horse Gallery Skólavörðust. 15 | G8 Vesturgata 4 | D5 Feb 20 - Mar 14. A record label as well as A lovely gallery/gift shop Bergthor Morthens - IS - Painter a store, all the best new run by ten artists and The National Gallery of Iceland Icelandic music on CDs or designers where they sell Feb 13 - May 5 live on Fridays at 5 PM. their products. SEVERAL FRIENDS: The exhibition 66°¨North Kolaportið sheds light on the period in Icelandic Bankastræti 5 | F6 Tryggvagata 19 | E5 art when formalism, confronted by One of the most recog- Open on weekends, you informal values, retreated and other at- nised icelandic products can get a bargain on titudes started to invade the art scene 66gráður North provides almost anything at this in the second half of the 20th century. world class arctic clothing. indoor flea market. The National Museum Aftur Kraum Permanent exhibition: Laugavegur 23 | G7 Aðalstræti 10 | D6 The Making of a Nation-Heritage and Aftur’s internationally Featuring the best in History in Iceland is intended to provide acclaimed label is proudly contemporary Icelandic displayed here in their design of everyday items insight into the history of the Icelandic shop/studio. of any kind. nation from the Settlement to the pres- ent day. Belleville Mar 7: 15:00 - 17:00. The Icelandic Laugavegur 25 | G7 Kronkron National Costume. Guests who are Stuffed with trendy Laugavegi 63B | I8 streetwear designs as well This hip new shop stocks wearing traditional costumes, Icleandic as funky magazines and the latest trends in or from other Nations, get Free Admis- media. everything from socks to sion. Others: 600ISK sweaters. Mar 8: 14:00 - 16:00. Do you have a Blue Lagoon Store Laugavegur 15 | G7 KVK historic object? Bring along old objects All the natural skincare Laugavegur 27 | G7 Jan 31 - Nov 30. Encounters. Archaeo- products from the famous Small yet stuffed designer logical excavations at many locations geothermal spa at their shop KVK, which stocks around Iceland have been funded by outlet here. a nice selection of local Kristnihátíðarsjóður (the Millenium designs. Brim Fund). Finds from some of these exca- Laugurvegur 71 | H7 Marimekko vations are on display in an exhibition Big surf wear, skate wear, Laugavegur 56 | H8 suitable for the whole family. and snowboard shop. Finnish designer brand Sep 6 - Feb 25.Child Labour or Training Marimekko has found its Börn Náttúrunnar spot on Laugavegur. The for Life? Photographs of young children Skólavörðustígur 17a Marimekko concept store at work, on land or at sea, during the | G8 stocks a wide selection period 1930-50. From the National The basement children’s of the colourfully printed toy store sells clothes and Museum’s Collection of Photographs designer products. and Prints. toys only made of organic The Nordic House products as well as books Mál og Menning Feb 13 - Mar 9. Ipseity-abeyance. about childcare and Laugavegur 18 | G7 parenthood. A multi-level store with Mar 19 - Apr 5. The Nordic Fashion games, books, souvenirs Cintamani Biennale - Focusing on Fashion and and a bustling café on the Laugavegur 11 | Jewellery from West-Nordic Nations: F7 top floor. Faroe Isalnds, Greenland and Iceland. Featuring quality Icelandic Feb 16- Mar 13. Sugar sweet snow- outdoor gear, you can Moods of Norway even book an excursion on Laugavegur 51 | H8 houses built on a roman foundation: the spot. The new clothing shop Students will be looking at the building on Laugavegur closes the Dead history and wonder about the 2009 gap between the clothes Laugavegur 29 | possibilites of construction material G7 you wear on Saturday for Artist Jón Sæmundur your night off and those from the perspective of an engineer. Auðarson’s own hand- you wear the following Feb 13. - Mar 8. The Icelandic Society printed Rock and Roll Sunday at church. From for the Preservation of Birds is now label, Dead, plus others. casual shirts and pants to displaying photographs of the Icelandic Dogma the eye-catching tux: they birdlife. Laugavegur 32 | H7 have it. The Numismatic Museum Dogma offers street Nakti Apinn Permanent exhibition: The Central Bank clothing with interesting Bankastræti 14 | F7 prints. Hooded sweaters of Iceland and the National Museum Offers an amazing array and T-shirts made by of Iceland jointly operate a numismatic of colourful designer wear both Icelandic and foreign collection consisting of Icelandic notes as well as contemporary designers can be found. and coins. media. Einvera Reykjavík 871 +/- 2 Nexus Laugavegur 35 | H7 Permanent exhibition: Hverfisgata 103 | I8 A cosy little shop with The Settlement Exhibition The biggest comic book a great selection of -Reykjavík Art Gallery and gaming store in hand-picked second hand Reykjavík has something Current exhibition: Magnús Tómasson, clothing for girls who like for everyone. Pétur Már Pétursson and Tolli to dress differently. Also Reykjavík Art Museum Ásmundur available is the Icelandic Rokk og Rósir Sveinsson Sculpture Museum designer label Kalda. Laugavegur 17 | G7 Permanent Exhibition. The Shape of Second-hand clothing for Friða Frænka the fairer sex at a reason- Line. A new retrospective of works by Vesturgata 3 | D5 able price. Ásmundur Sveinsson. The exhibition A real treasure chest of focuses on abstract works from 1945 antique furniture and Skarthúsið onwards. vintage accoutrements to Laugavegur 12 | F7 Reykjavík Art Museum perk up your apartment. Glittery accessory shop stuffed with cheap jewel- Hafnarhús G-Star Raw lery, bags or other small Feb 05 - May 10. SHADOW BOY – THE Laugavegur 86 | I8 items. WORLD OF ALFRED FLÓKI. A store for the Dutch jeans Jan 5- May 17. Erró - Point to the east, brand, an edgy collection Skífan point to the west with innovative details and Laugavegur 26 | G7 Jan 17 -May 17. The Erró Game- an- washes. Selection of CDs, DVDs and computer games as Galleri Sautján interactive exhibtion, kids can recon- well as some Icelandic Laugavegur 91 | struct paintings by Erró. I8 films with English subtitles. Jan 22 - Mar 8. Ásmundur Ásmunds- Stocking many hip labels, son: individual artist is invited to create a unisex store offering Spúútnik an exhibition that underlines connec- casual business wear to Laugavegur 32 | G7 evening dress wear. One of the best second- tion with life that is happening outside hand shops in the country, Gilbert the walls of the museum. with recycled clothes at a Laugavegur 62 | Reykjavík Art Museum H8 range of prices. Kjarvalsstaðir Watchmaker Gilbert Guðjónsson has sold Systur Winter in Viðey island Jan 10 - Apr 13. Kjarval Complete: A sa- watches and clocks on Laugavegur 70 | H7 lon style exhibtion displaying the whole Laugavegur for over 40 For whatever women’s collection of Icelands most beloved years. Recently, Gilbert lingerie needs you might History, nature and art. painter Kjarval designed his own line of have, this is the store to Jan 24 – Apr 13. The Art of Chess: wristwatches. satisfy them. Scheduled ferry Saturdays and Sundays Fifteen unique chess sets and boards Glamúr Trilogia made by internationally renowned Laugavegur 41 | H7 Laugavegur 7 | F7 artsits. each chess set has its own A flashy vintage clothing A collection of trendy From Skarfabakki pier to Viðey: concept reflecting the artists’ vivid shop with everything from designer wear fills the imagination. Artist including Damien necklaces to fur coats to shop, summery dresses, 13:15 - 14:15 - 15:15 Hirst, Maurizio Cattelan, the Chapman kimonos. sweaters and skirts. brothers, and Rachel Whiteread exhibit. Green Apple The Viking From Viðey to Skarfabakki pier: Jan 24 – Apr 13. Creative Move: An on Laugavegur 20 | G7 Hafnarstræti 3 | E5 going workshop for the whole family The tiny shop combines This large tourist shop sells 13:30 - 14:30 - 15:30 - 16:30 - 17:30 where they can create chess sets out of massage and other all sorts of smart souvenirs unusual materials. relaxation products with to bring back home. organic products. Reykjavík Maritime Museum Þorsteinn Bergmann Current Exhibitions: Living Museum Gyllti Kötturinn Skólavörðustígur 36 | G8 by the Sea; Arterial for Country and Austurstræti 8 | E6 Since the 1940s this small City; From Poverty to Abundance; The One of a few second hand store has offered a huge shops that have popped selections of household Winter Whale Watching Shark – Light and Life Energy; Hidden up in recent year, Gyllti supplies for a laughable Craftsman. Kötturinn also offers some low price. The Reykjavík Museum of Photography pieces by locals. Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays at 13:00. Jan 15 - Mar 10.The photographs by Anatomie Thomas Graics, also a pilot, are all Handprjóna- Skólavörðustígur | G8 sambandið A great little shop with Weather permitting tours taken from air. The artist has been in Sklólavörðustígur 19A an excellent selection of Iceland many times in his search for | G7 sportswear. - check out our website for updates www.elding.is material for his photos All sorts of hand knit Jan 17 - May 10. Tíra: The art of Bjargey woollen clothing as well Hanna Design Shop Laugavegur 20B | G7 - pick up service available in Reykjavík Ólafsdóttir. as fine yarns and knitting supplies. Hanna Design Shop Mar 27 12:00. Humor & Amor - Unex- provides elegantIce-landic Reservations are necessary pected lunch Event & Love Drink. Iða design, made exclusively 101 Projects Lækjargata 2A | E6 out of Icelandic wool. Feb 28 - Mar 22. Exhibition by artist, A great source for all kinds Susan Hiller (US) of reading material, with restaurants on the second floor. OUTSIDE REYKJAVÍK Kisan Laugavegur 7 | F7 An interesting mix of items For more information about art outside Tour Operator Reykjavík visit grapevine.is from all around the world Call us on 555 3565 you won’t find anywhere Authorised by else. Icelandic Tourist Board or visit www.elding.is 24 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

CD REVIEWS CONCERT REVIEW By Þórir GEORG JÓNSSON — PHOTO BY SIGURÐUR GUNNARSSON

THE VERDICT Enter Sindri Már Sigfússon's musical laboratory.

listen www.myspace.com/ sinfangbous

Sin Fang BouS Clangour reviewed by Florian Zühlke

As Sin Fang Bous is the solo-project of Sindri from Seabear, you will quickly notice the comfortable voice and welcoming little melodies that make his main band one of my favourite young Icelandic indie acts. The differences between the projects are not that big, only that Sin Fang Bous tries to broaden the sound of Seabear by adding electronic gadgets. This means Clangour follows a more experimental approach, instead of Seabear's catchy pop-tunes. This is sometimes exciting as in Catch the Light, sometimes beautiful (Sunken Ship), but sometimes also quite unspectacular – as in the flat Clangour and Flutes – or even BURSTING WITH FUN downright annoying because of apparently random electronic effects. Clangour leaves a mixed impression as a record. However, it also is an interesting documentation of the talented Sindri's musical experiments as seen from a different angle. Taken in this way, it does not matter that The Noises of the Underground not all the experiments are a success.

THE VERDICT It rules beyond what pro- Nýlenduvöruverslun Hemma og Valda may not ferent place, under different circumstances, they WHAT fanity can express. look like much of a concert venue to the untrained might have been easier to enjoy but they seemed Grapevine Grassroots eye. But to those in the know, it's a completely dif- out of their element. After playing for almost an number 1 listen ferent story. The tiny old wooden house has been hour, it wasn't until the last twenty minutes or so www.myspace.com/ the host of some of the city’s most legendary con- that they broke out of their groove and really gave WHO animalcollectivetheband certs, both in the previous incarnation of Kaffi their two drummers a chance to shine. Swords of Chaos Hljómalind and even earlier than that the legend- The final band of the night was Bárujárn. And Faðir Vor ary record store Hljómalind. So to my mind there it was obvious from the moment they started set- Bárujárn wasn't a better place to start this series of concerts ting up their equipment that they wanted to put dedicated to the Reykjavík underground scene. on a show; even if they didn't quite deliver what WHERE First band on was the magnificent Swords of they promised, they still were pretty close. Musi- Hemmi & Valdi ANIMAL COLLECTIVE Chaos, whose punk-tinged noise rock fit the place cally, Bárujárn are among the more exciting bands Meerriweather Post Pavilion perfectly. There are many things you can say about around. Mixing heavy rock, punk, psychedelia WHEN Swords of Chaos, but boring is definitely not one of and surf rock into a cocktail may not be unique, Friday, February 13 them. Singer Úlfur leapt and bounced around the but they certainly have a fair amount of original- reviewed by SINDRI ELDON room while the band created some of the loudest, ity. The addition of theremin certainly made them most abrasive rock music you'll find in Reykjavík a bit more interesting. Not to mention the go go In addition to sporting one of the best titles in recent music history, these days. Hopefully they'll have a release of dancers, flashing lights and disco uniforms. Merriweather Post Pavilion may just be the best balance between in- some sort out soon. I don't think anyone has had any doubt about ventive, well-furnished musicianship and catchy, poptastic joygasmic Following Swords of Chaos was going to make the quality of the Reykjavík underground music electro for a decade. While some fashionable techno bands struggle to almost any band look tame, but Faðir Vor probably scene for a long time. But it is certainly nice to get be relevant (Scissor Sisters, MGMT) and Icelandic ones just struggle in more so than most. Their calm, meditative jazz a reminder like this every once in a while. general (FM Belfast, Bloodgroup), Animal Collective perfectly encap- rock was interesting, if a little dull at parts. At a dif- sulate everything great about 2000’s techno: it’s minimal without being harsh, danceable without being loud, languid without being boring, grandiose without being pretentious and psychedelic without being dated. Its dreamy, gently lilting melodies go everywhere and nowhere SHOPPING By Richard Paul Foley at the same time, the barely-there drum beats almost unnecessary as softly-urgent vocals and no-holds-barred synth frolicking take centre stage. It’s over-the-top and intensely public, but at the same time very private, very direct... it’s hard to talk about an album like this without getting a little poetic, but simply put, it is beyond compare, a little more Seething Kraum than excellent and a little less than perfect.

THE VERDICT The popular Icelandic design shop, Kraum, was interested in distinctive, one-off designs. Explains Sad songs that unfortu- opened in 2007, a collaborative effort of some 30 one of the sales assistants: “I see three genera- nately get monotonous designers to produce a communal designer store. tions of women shopping together here, from the quite fast. The shop initially bought and sold work from up mothers and daughters to the grandmothers and to 60 to 70 designers and has grown to sell the grand-daughters. All of them seem to be able to listen works of over 100. In 2008, Kraum was awarded find something for themselves. ” Commenting fur- www.myspace.com/ by the Icelandic retailer council, “Tourist Shop of ther, she demonstrated that the varied price range elineyj the Year”. reflects different age groups. “Younger customers tend to buy jewellery by Helga Ósk Einarsdóttir. About Kraum She draws inspiration from traditional Icelandic The main focus of the store is to make a vibrant patterns, and sells some of the cheaper products crafts community by facilitating new and local – they go for around 2.000 ISK”. When asked about ELÍN EY designers from Iceland. This is done through a the most expensive product on offer, she points to See You In Dreamland close partnership with the craft and design centre the tailored lamb coats by Sunneva, worth around that occupies and exhibits next door, in the oldest 300.000 ISK. “That’s our most expensive item, I be- house in Reykjavík. The owners’ collective knowl- lieve.” reviewed by Florian Zühlke edge as designers places them in good stead for Browsing through the shop it becomes ap- opening such an enterprise. One radical change of parent that an underlying theme in the variety of On her debut album, Elín Ey presents her energetic voice very fittingly the traditional designer boutique was to buy direct designs is the distinct utilization of native Icelan- to the sounds of her fragile guitar play. The sad tone and lyrics make from the maker rather than working on commis- dic resources. For instance, shoemaker Maria K this record perfect for getting drunk over love lost. This is also the point sion. This subsequently assists crafts-folk in evolv- Magnúsdóttir makes unconventional ankle boots where “See you in dreamland” gets monotonous in a way – the songs ing new work, creating diversity and support for a from horse manes and fish skins that look uncan- seldom change their tune. “See you in dreamland” catches the sadness variety of designs and designers within the shop. nily similar to crocodile. Fanney Antonsdóttir and of being left and alone but does not stray from that theme and therefore Dögg Guðmunsdóttir skin a whole cod and place gets boring on a full-length album: the songs have the same shuffled Who shops there its fragile remains as a lampshade. Farmer/de- tempo and the same chords. However, Elín Ey manages to break that and what do they sell? signer Guðrún Steingrímsdóttir produces obscure circle in some of her songs – “Coming to get you” or “Why don't we do it Initially one presumes the shop is specifically mar- brooches from the whale teeth. Overall, it seems in the road”, for example, both ass-kicking blues tunes that bring some keted to tourists, but upon closer scrutiny it turns the designers are willing to challenge ideas of verve. Some more of those would have done the record good. out the mainstays are mature Icelandic women beauty and functionality. THE BRENNIVÍN WOOL SOCKS Just do Iceland!

Beautiful and handy Road Guide with 600 quality photographs and informative text. The Photographer, Rafn Hafnfjörð is well known, both in Iceland and abroad. www.icelandphotos.com

These beautiful books by Völundur Snær Völundarson make the perfect gift for those who want to expand their horizon and learn about other countries, as well as cook exciting dishes. www.deliciousiceland.com

Salka Publishing www.salka.is

Untitled-2_mix.indd 1 2/3/09 3:26:28 PM HVÍTA HÚSIÐ / SÍA – 09–0223

Electronic and Environmentally Friendly All of our billing is now electronic. In order to receive a paper bill, please contact our service center at 569 6900 or 800 6969.

www.ils.is e-mail: [email protected] Borgartúni 21, 105 Reykjavík TEL: 569 6900 // 800 6969 The Housing Financing Fund 26 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

DESTINATIONS SNOWBOARDING By BOGI BJARNASON — PHOTO BY INGÓLFUR BRAGI GUNNARSSON

Top 5 Ski Areas in Iceland

BY BOGI BJARNASON

1. Hlíðarfjall, Akureyri. With a high-speed quad and three tow lifts Hlíðar- fjall may not be the biggest, but it’s certainly the best. The top lift accesses a lot of off-piste and of- fers endless hiking possibilities to various chutes, cornices and cliffs. The quad has high turn around and seldom gets queued up but the slope is inter- mediate at best. The snowpark features a multitude of rails and is shaped by a graduate from a Swedish snowboarding high school. The area is unique in the meagre flora of Icelandic ski areas in that it year after year offers 140+ operating days.

2. Oddsskarð, Eskifjörður. Boasting a mere two tows and a beginners lift, Oddsskarð is small but has great backcountry ac- cess. Take the two tows to the top and ride down the backside through off-piste galore and find your- self in another fjörd where you can drive back up the mountain pass through a tunnel that opens up back at the lifts. The powder is plentiful, the scenery magnificent and the town tiny. For accommodation you can’t do better than Mjóeyri, a guesthouse run by an awesome individual called Sævar who will go to any length to make your stay comfortable. Just tell him I sent you.

3. Bláfjöll, Reykavík. With 9 tows, two double-seater chairs and a detach- able high-speed quad, Bláfjöll is certainly the big- HOUSEGRINDING gest, but the area is only open when the Norse god of weather is in a good mood. And that guy’s one moody bastard. A benefit of his whims are however nice wind formations such as cornices, in particu- The Eiríkur Helgason Interview lar the “Framhengja”, which is a short hike away and often offers up a lot of hangtime. Man-made You might not know him, but he's kinda famous kickers are scarce as the weather doesn’t take lightly to such constructions, but the ISA (Icelandic Snowboard Association) tries to keep jumps avail- able. The terrain is suitable to all levels of riders/ Beginnings of us continually pushing each other to do better”. more laidback filming/photographing types that skiers. Eiríkur “Eiki” Helgason first drew the attention of supplement their already sizeable salaries and pro the snowboarding community in 2003 with the re- Pro-life model royalties with the photo bonus—your Travis lease of the snowboard movie “Óreiða” (“Chaos”), Last winter was Eiki's first season as a fully-fledged Rices and Johan Olofsons. where he and his fellow rippers in Team Divine globetrotting pro, which means his travels are Up to this point, during his latter school (Viktor Helgi Hjartarson, Gulli Guðmundsson and more or less dictated by the whims of his team years, Eiki received much acclaim for being nearly Eiki's little brother Halldór) first set the standard manager at Rome Snowboards, so paths seldom unbeatable on the Scandinavian, urban jib com- for Icelandic snowboarding. The film attracted converge with his friends anymore. What's it like petition scene; but with this year’s release of not some international praise, mainly for Eiki's attempt to spend most of the season without your old one but three films with an “Eiki Helgason” part 4. Snæfellsjökull. at a triple backflip—a trick never before seen, nor team? “We rode together from October to January, in them begs the question: competing or filming, The Snæfellsjökull glacier is where you want to be seen since. so it's not that bad, but you always miss not being which is more fun? “I don't like competing. Filming in spring and early summer. Here you can partake It's now six years down the road and Eiki has with all of your buddies riding Hlíðarfjall,” says is a 100 times more fun because you're so free. in some midnight riding under the never setting experienced most, if not all, that it entails to be Eiki. You don't need to know the day or the time. You sun, if you rent a snowmobile that is. A good surf a pro snowboarder: magazine covers, countless Nabbing the last part of the snowboard can just do what you like, when you like. Hehe, break is nearby and a mini-ramp for skating was competition wins, tireless travel, and the “Snow- movies you appear in each season is always presti- couldn't be better!” left behind by the Iceland Park Project, which used boarder Magazine” Rookie of the Year award. I gious, like headlining a concert. Sure enough Eiki to run a summer camp a few years back. Pitch your caught up with Eiki where he was in Aspen, Colo- landed—and I'm talking a lot of clean landings— tent at the Arnarstapi camp ground, near the small rado, at the top of the waiting list to participate in the end part of Rome's “No Correct Way” movie restaurant and bar. The scenery is breathtaking the X-Games Slopestyle. this year: a feat that might singlehandedly have and the fowl is loud and menacing. First off, I was curious to know about Eiki's gotten a slew of nominations for the '08 rider emphasis on jibbing (a form of urban snowboard- awards circuit. So I had him tell me a bit about his I was nominated for Transworld ing). “I get a lot of inspiration from skateboarding recent “Rookie of the Year” award. and jibbing rails was the only way to do what my “I was nominated for Transworld Snowboard- Snowboarding magazine’s Rookie idols were doing because Hlíðarfjall (Eiki's home ing magazine’s Rookie of the year reader’s choice of the year reader’s choice and mountain) never built jumps or anything like that, and for the top 10 trick of the year list. Then I nor does it offer many days for building backcoun- won the Snowboarder Magazine and Snowboard for the top 10 trick of the year try jumps, so we chose this way, and it worked MBM “Rookie of the Year” awards. So the season list. Then I won the Snowboarder 5. Siglufjörður. out”, Eiki tells me. couldn't have played out much better.” Have never been but a northerner friend of mine All of Team Divine have studied at a Swedish Magazine and Snowboard MBM says it’s easily his favourite as far as backcountry snowboarding highschool. I ask him how that Comp Kid vs. Powder Hound “Rookie of the Year” awards. So goes, and if it’s not to your liking, Hlíðarfjall and came about: “We somehow heard about this In the world of professional snowboarding there the small areas of Dalvík and Húsavík are all within school and after that nothing else mattered, we are two more or less prevalent schools of thought. the season couldn't have played about an hour’s drive. just had to get admitted.” Obviously they were. There are media babies—your Shaun Whites and out much better. They thus continued to grow and progress off of Shaun Palmers—who crave the spotlight and the Honourable Mention: Skálafell, Reykjavik. R.I.P each other, as Eiki freely admits. “I would never huge cash (and occasional) SUV prizes that come have gotten to where I am today where it not for all with a successful competitive career, and the New já.is                     já           Hótel Ísafjörður - ersvarið               SEARCH Hótel ÍsafjörðurH in theheartofÍsafjörður,Ísaf thecapitalof... 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ÍSLENSKA SIA.IS LYF 45409 03/09 28 | REYKJAVÍK GRAPEVINE | ISSUE 3—2009

DESTINATION By HAUKUR S MAGNÚSSON — PHOTO BY JÓI KJARTANS

Socialist fun for the whole family “This festival has always been like some weird Biblical fable of folks coming together to make a good thing,” he continues, “and I think that reflects in the event itself, all the good spirit that goes into creating it makes up the joyful and celebratory at- mosphere that guests and performers alike revel in. People sometimes call it ‘Mugison’s party’, and that is one misconception I’d like to correct. AFS and the ideals behind it are much bigger than myself: it’s a socialist endeavour that consists of everyone who lends a hand, the bands that come to have a good time and play their 20 minute sets for free and every single audience member that shows up and contributes to the spirit.” Putting together each festival’s line up is al- ways a feat. In booking acts, festival organisers put tremendous effort to bring together a carefully proportioned mix of veteran pop superstars, local Westfjords talent and eclectic indie darlings; it’s probably the only festival in the world where trou- badours and bar-bands play alongside experimen- tal ambient techno artists and growling deathrock- ers. The crowd cheers on every single act equally. “This really contributes to the spirit of the whole thing—people stay and take in artists they’ve may- be never heard of playing music they wouldn’t nor- mally give five seconds. Grandmothers get in the groove of Kippi Kanínus and hipsters rock out to Siggi Björns and Villi Valli. It breaks barriers and brings people together.” “I guess our biggest problem has always been saying no,” Mugison continues. “Almost every good MUGISON AND HIS LONELY MOUNTAIN VIEW band in Iceland approaches us to play. Even after expanding AFS to a two-day event we still can’t fit in everyone. But we try our darnedest.” The festi- Never Let Down: Aldrei Fór Ég Suður val’s track record of featuring everyone from Kira Kira and Sigur Rós (in country mode) to Megas to Gearing up for its fifth year, Europe’s biggest little music festival just plain refuses to quit SSSól to everyone in between supports that indeed almost every musician in Iceland has played there at some point. For a free two-day event that involves airlifting the northwest corner of Iceland and the burning sun ent and rural heritage along with the best of what’s The Aldrei Fór Ég Suður Festival will take better part (in every sense of the word) of Iceland’s sparkles off the ocean through his windows. “We happening in the capital, the ‘Aldrei fór ég suður’ place in an undisclosed Ísafjörður location on musicians to a remote part of the country and didn’t have any idea how we’d pull it off; no money festival is the brainchild of Ísafjörður’s own Mugi- April 10th and 11th, from around 2pm ‘til late. At the keeping them stocked on beer, food and blankets for airfares or lodging. But we managed to hustle son and his father, local harbourmaster Guðmun- time of writing, the following acts were confirmed for two days, during the economically ravaged in some sponsors and it somehow worked. Since dur M. Kristjánsson (Muggi or PapaMug). to appear: múm, Dr. Spock, Reykjavík!, Kraftlyft- 2009 shouldn’t bode too well. The days of cash- then, we’ve been doing that, pretty much. Making Mugison waxes on, emphasising the nature ing, Hemmi Gunn, Sin Fang Bous, Agent Fresco, bloated corporations throwing money at anything it happen, for better or worse—it always winds up of AFS as one big group effort of modern-day barn Sökudólgarnir, Sudden Weather Change, Stórsveit that moves in an artful manner are behind us, and working like a miracle. Right now we’re in the pro- raising. “A lot of people pitch in and help out, and Vestfjarða, Klikkhausarnir and Fjallabræður. Close most corporate sponsored events are now forced cess of securing financial sponsors for the upcom- that’s what’s important. AFS really wouldn’t be any- to 30 acts will perform at the festival in all, so stay to dramatically scale down—lest they shut down ing bash, and things seem to be coming together thing were it not for the awesome folks that put in tuned to www.aldrei.is for up to date info. completely. nicely.” tremendous work each year to ensure we have a Not Ísafjörður’s Aldrei fór ég suður. Every Easter since 2004, the cream of Ice- festival. Some of them, like Ísafjörður’s son-in-law Trip provided by: Air Iceland “The first time we did the festival, we just en- land’s musical crop has collectively made its way Jón Þór Þorleifsson, reel in sponsors and funding www.airiceland.is thusiastically asked a bunch of bands we liked to to the Westfjords town of Ísafjörður (pop. 3.000), relentlessly and creatively, while others build our come,” AFS honcho Mugison tells me over tea and where they join local artists to revel in the pure, stage or man the soundboards.” scones in his Súðavík flat. It’s a beautiful day in the unabashed joy of music. A celebration of local tal-

GRÍMSEY

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DESTINATION By HAUKUR S MAGNÚSSON — PHOTOS BY JÓI KJARTANS

Your Grapevine Guide to AFS and Ísafjörður

Rockmaster Hálfdán Bjarki Hálfdánsson Hamraborg Tjöruhúsið The Suðureyri Swimming pool – aka Háli Slick Ísafjörður’s one-stop shop for damn near ev- Tjöruhúsið is the site of a legendary seafood restau- A mere 20-minute drive from Ísafjörður the hamlet Veteran AFS Rockmaster Háli Slick is in charge of erything, town staple Hamraborg will keep you rant of the same name in the summertime. Sadly of Suðureyri is a charming place to visit. Their out- the festival, especially when it comes to rockin’ stocked in pizza, cigarettes, candy, canned goods, closed during winter, this is where the performers door swimming pool also kicks all kinds of ass: the out and partyin’ down. This gentle giant is an ap- pantyhose, DVDs, musical instruments and pretty usually meet up for fish stew and beer. Stay clear surrounding scenery is awe inspiring, the hot pots proachable, friendly fellow, so don’t hesitate to ask much everything else you might need. You’ll of if you’re not one of them, but do come back in the are superb and they actually serve you coffee and him for help should you need it. However, keep in course have to fork over a hefty sum for most of the summer. You shan’t regret it. popsicles if you are thus inclined (the coffee is free mind that AFS is an extremely busy time for him, so items, but this is is supplemented by their excellent and the pops are modestly priced). Go there. your plights better be warranted. service.

Gamla bakaríið Krúsin The Tungu- & Seljalandsdalur skiing facilities The Ísafjörður Airport Gamla bakaríið is one of the oldest operating bak- If David Lynch were to design a bar, chances are Easter used to be all about skiing in Ísafjörður. And While driving to Ísafjörður during winter is an adven- eries in Iceland - and it is certainly among the best. it would look, feel and smell a lot like basement it still is, as when conditions allow them to oper- ture of its own, most prefer to fly. Thus, this will likely Try the yummy snúðar if you've a sweet tooth - set- hangout Krúsin. Notorious for some crazy and sur- ate, the ski slopes provide some excellent rides in be your first sight as you arrive for AFS. Located five tle for a sandwich if you're of that inclination. In any real nightlife action, this is where you’ll want to be majestic sceneries. You’ll definitely want to bring minutes from the city centre, you can grab a flybus or case, go there. It's more than worth the visit. after curtain call at AFS. along your skis or snowboards. a cab to get to town, or even hitch a ride with locals.

Kaffi Edinborg Thai Koon Sundhöll Ísafjarðar Vínbúð ÁTVR Getting service at this bistro/bar can be a real The absurd location of this Thai restaurant—stowed The Ísafjörður swimming pool is one of the old- This is where you stock up on alcohol once you’re in nightmare, but it has a nice interior, friendly away in the corner of a Ísafjörður’s very own mini est ones in the country—and it shows. The indoor Ísafjörður. Be sure to do so—you have a long week- regulars and the occasional art exhibit. You’ll mall disaster—doesn’t take away from the fact that pool is good for cleaning up and doing some laps, end ahead of you. Bear in mind that they’re closed likely find yourself spending a bit of time there. they serve up huge portions of excellent, authentic and the interior design is fascinating to some, but on Good Friday, but you can stock up on Thursday Thai food at reasonable prices. for extended pool hangouts you’ll want to go to the and then re-up on Saturday (before 2 PM). Suðureyri one.

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DESIGN CULTURE BY Richard Paul Foley — PHOTO BY jÓi KJARTANS

Ingvar Högni Ragnarsson DesignMarch A side room holds Ingivar Högni Ragnarsson’s pho- tographic installation series “Waiting”. The empti- Our Very Own ness of the work appears to be a stern realisation that all has been deserted in pursuit of better days. Design Extravaganza The presence of people is suggested throughout each picture but never seen: car tracks in the snow, BY Sigurður Kjartan Kristinsson tyre marks on a vacant road. The curious aspect of the work is the concept of static time, a mo- Although Iceland is currently bankrupt, the bombastic ment caught in anticipation. “Waiting” evokes the local art festivals that are still peaking, such as Iceland sense that something is about to happen or just Airwaves, Culture Night and Reykjavik International has, reflecting the tense atmosphere of the crisis. Film Festival, have shown that we’re undeniably only The images are motionless, in wonder of what is to broke on money. This March the missing link to the come: who will fill the empty car parks and occupy otherwise bulletproof festival chain will be intro- houses? What will happen if left un-built and doc- duced: a grassroots design festival. ile? From an aesthetic viewpoint the photographer A long-weekend design party has captured a sense of the melancholic beauty of When Grapevine heard of this we immediately caught the Icelandic landscape, reflected in the dull greys up with the alleged operator of the festival, Greipur and silence. His symmetrical angles in the work Gíslason, down at the Icelandic Design Centre. Gísla- convey a dramatic impression on the viewer’s natu- son emphasized from the very beginning the he was in ral sense of composition, placing the work as one no understanding a “front” of the festival, but a hum- of the more technically ambitious. ble servant behind the curtains. “From March 26th the 29th there will be a gigantic design party all around Julia Staples town, and every empty window in the midtown area Photographer Julia Staples works directly with the will be filled with design goods,” Gíslason explained. issues imposed on people throughout the crisis. He stressed that although the festival consists mostly Two intriguing works produced for the exhibition of unknown designers showing their work in small are a smaller series, entitled “Breiðholt, Iceland” boutiques, there will also a few bigger names attend- NOBODY PUTS JULIA STAPLES IN THE CORNER and “Looking Through An Unfinished House in ing and commercial malls Kringlan and Smáralind Norðlingaholt”. “Breiðholt, Iceland” depicts the participate. housing blocks of Breidholt – which legend has it Debunking the commercial factor is a notoriously deprived part of Reykjavík with a But where did the idea come from? Grapevine found Ipseity-Abeyance high concentration of immigrants. out that in previous years a similar festival bearing the What struck me regarding this series were its name “Design Days” had been thrown a few times, A Look Through The Lenses And Into The Crisis vibrant colours, instinctively drawing me to view but with a totally different format. The venue wasn’t them. Inspecting the images further, I noticed they various boutiques and cafés around the city, but in- were small entrance doors to a housing block, stead the gigantic sport hall Laugardalshöll. So you placed in numerical order. The systematic order could say they’re debunking the commercial factor As part of the Northern Lights Festival, the Nor- building plans have been undertaken and sadly halt- seemed to express ideas of populace statistics this time and the festival’s morphing into a replica of dic House has been hosting the group exhibition ed. The photographs depict large industrial cranes and the categorization of people into a number; Iceland Airwaves and Culture Night. And if it’s being “Ipseity- Abeyance”. The exhibition is one of the in the skyline, said to symbolise the economic land- in this context, it almost appeared like a list of un- categorised with festivals such as the aforementioned, first artistic ventures to express the crisis. The ex- scape of the depression. The work remained bright employed families receiving benefits in each apart- the foreign press must follow. Gíslason cleared that hibition’s curator and photographer, Julia Staples, and optimistic in its summer setting, compared ment. I began to wonder what the impact of the cri- up: “We’re expecting about 30 foreign journalists and chose to focus on photography, stating that the “il- to the second series “Stories From the Last War”. sis would have here. Would the people of Breiðholt photographers, so it sure will be crowded!”. And who lustrative qualities of photography go together well This older set of black and white imagery be the first to experience the repercussions of the knows, maybe DesignMarch will obtain a status as the with representing the crisis.” One recurring theme shows the demolition of old, unused buildings that economic change? If most immigrants emigrate coolest long-weekend design festival on the annual throughout the show is the choice of portraying the existed in Reykjavík, such as the Pravda Club bar. home, will these apartments become barren or be calendar? real estate industry so as to reflect upon what has Today, all buildings seem to hold question marks over filled because the housing crash? Just how bad Custom made pavilion occurred from the economic crisis, as real estate is over their heads. As the title implies, these are “Sto- could it get? All these questions posed by the work There are a few Icelandic expats returning home for always a strong indicator of the financial situation ries From the Last War”, but we are already antici- were inevitably unanswerable. “Looking Through the event, one of those is Arnaldur Schram, an accom- in any country. pating the next battle. An Unfinished House in Norðlingaholt” seems to plished architect stationed in New York City. His plan As I walked through the space and browsed portray more hope. The images were printed so is to build a pavilion in Reykjavík Sheriff’s Garden, the pamphlet provided, I noticed an article es- Nico Muhly that the frame mimicked the windows of the house. solely made of aluminum plates, cut using laser tech- pousing photographer Guðmundur Ingólfsson’s An American composer, who by chance became in- Most of the window views were set onto a pictur- nique. At first sight this seems to be quite an expensive feelings about photography. He told of how the volved in the exhibition, was invited after his video esque landscape, contrasting the pathos between project but Arnaldur explained that both Geislatækni art-form had received a lowered status throughout collaboration with the DVD magazine, Rafskinna. the tragic financial restrictions preventing a family and SindraStál, who produce and cut the aluminum, his career and the struggle for employment that The live performance was composed specifically for living there, and the hope that one day they will donated their work and products, “I was simply flab- photographers encounter. It became apparent that for the incomplete city Music Hall. Muhly asked enjoy these views when the economic crisis will be bergasted when it went through, and without their the choice of photography was possibly the most Helgi Hrafn Jónsson to perform on the trombone over. generous donations this wouldn’t have been possible. appropriate for expressing the crisis. For me, the for its acoustical quality in testing a space—even On the most part the exhibition was a conflict The building itself will be completely custom show truly engaged itself in demonstrating aspects though the roof was still missing, as he points out. between anxiety and optimistic aspirations both made, i.e. no piece will be identical. So it really is a of the situation with realism, subtlety and pathos. The music seemed to produce an unnerving reiter- connecting to the current atmosphere of the crisis, mixture between a gazebo and a sculpture.” Arnaldur Hence, I wanted to try to articulate a few of the art- ation of the first verse, creating a stuttering tension which makes the work a successful re-enactment is looking for volunteers; so whether you’re a student ist’s works that conveyed these feelings. that constantly began again and again, with short of what has been felt throughout this historical pe- or unemployed, contact the Icelandic Design Centre if stints of other compositions but never building to a riod. you want to lend a hand. Guðmundur Ingólfsson crescendo. In this way it managed to convey some- The festival's schedule will be diverse and it Upon entering the exhibition, the first artist’s work thing of the emotions of the building. Nico Muhly’s The Nordic House offers events such as lectures on design and architec- on view was that of the aforementioned Guðmundur comment that this “might be the first and only per- Sturlugötu 5 ture, graphic and industrial design exhibition, movie Ingólfsson, a renowned photographer of Iceland. In- formance” performed in the Music Hall made the 101 Reykjavík screenings and guided tours. gólfsson presented a contrast of two photographic moment even more sentimental. www.nordice.is series. Firstly, was a modern day reflection on the The exhibition will be open till March 9. More info at www.icelandicdesign.is harbour area in Reykjavík, where a lot of ambitious

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The kids liked what they heard, but legend has it that in Höfn a farmer had a heart Tax returns are due by next March 23th attack when Elvis sounded You can find a simplified tax return for individuals in several on the radio. languages at www.rsk.is/international Dr. Gunni brings the history of Icelandic rock music. Page 6 La fecha límite para hacer la declaración de impuestos es el día 23 de marzo The days of cash-bloated Se puede obtener una versión simplificada de la declaración de impuestos corporations throwing money en diversos idiomas en la página www.rsk.is/international at anything that moves in an artful manner are behind us... Aldrei fór ég suður will still kick ass. Срок подачи налоговой декларации Page 28 истекает 23 марта с.г. Упрощенный вариант налоговой декларации на иностранных языках Little did God know on the можно найти на электронной странице www.rsk.is/international day he smote his curse on Þor- björn that he’d be giving birth Ostateczny termin rozliczenia to Iceland’s first avant-garde poet—a sound poet, no less, podatkowego to 23 marca Formularz zeznania podatkowego whose control of Zaum (uproszczony) na stronie is first-class. www.rsk.is/international Tax return | simplified Id.no. of the filer Intended for individuals living in Iceland for less than three years . On back page see explanations Eiríkur Örn Norðdahl explains the 17th and directions. Please note that couples and those with dependent children must fill RSK 1.01 The same applies to owners of real estate, securities, shares and self employed individuals.

Name century poetry of Æri-Tobbi. Income year 200 Address Municipality Separate tax return must be filed for each calander year Налоговая декларация | УПРОЩЕННОЕ ИЗДАНИЕ Duration of stay in Iceland Page 12 Идентификационный номер заполнителя Предназначается для лиц, проживающих в Исландии менее 3х лет См. oбъяснения и указания на оборотной странце DAY MONTH YEAR Обратите внимание, семейные пары и лица, имеющие детей на иждивении должны сдать RSK 1.10 Date of arrival to Iceland Date of departure from Iceland Tax commis- sioner use only То же самое для тех, кто имеет if in income year if in income year Имя, фамилия собственность, ценные бумаги, акции или занимается независимой трудовой деятельностью Адрес Город, район, село Salary and other employment related payments Доходы за 200__ 1 Налоговую декларацию нужно заполнять Время проживания в Исландии отдельно за каждый календарный год . . Дата приезда в страну, День Месяц Год Дата отъезда из страны, День Месяц Год Отметка Those who are considered если вы приехали в том же году если вы уехали в том же году налогового за который считаются доходы за который считаются доходы. инспектора . .

1 Выплаты связанные с трудовой деятельностью . . chieftains in this country are . . . . 21 ...... 2 Car allowance. Per diem payments, fringe benefits . . 21 . Zeznanie. podatkowe | WYDANIE UPROSZCZONE Car allowance 22 . . Per diem payments 23 . . foolishly susceptible to prayer, Przeznaczone osobom mieszkającym w Islandii nie dłużej niż trzy lata. . . 2 Субсидии на автомобиль. Суточные. ЛьготыNumer identyfikacyjny składającego zeznanie Zobacz wyjaśnienia i wskazówki dotyczące wypełnienia zeznania na odwrocie. Car benefits 134 Other benefits 135 Zwraca się uwagę na to, że małżeństwo lub osoby mające na wychowaniu . . . . Субсидии на 22 Суточные 23 dzieci powinny złożyć RSK 1.01. автомобиль . . . . To samo dotyczy tych, którzy posiadają Imię i nazwisko . . nieruchomości, listy wartościowe, akcje Льготы на 134 Другие льготы 135 автомобиль . . . . lub zajmują się działalnością prywatną. 3 Other income drink and bribery, but still Adres Gmina 3 Другие доходы Rok dochodowy 200___ Reimbursed pension fund premiums 43 Zeznanie podatkowe skladamy oddzielnie za . . Воэврат взносов в пенсионный фонд 43 . . kazdy rok kaledarzowy Czas pobytu na Islandii Other, what? . . Другие, какие? Dzień Miesiąc Rok . . Dzień Miesiąc Rok Oznaczenia Naczelnika Data przybycia do Islandii Data wyjazdu z Islandii Urzędu the simple and poor common Podatkowego 4 Вычет 4 Deductions

Взнос, выплаченный в пенсионный фонд этом году - макс.4%1 от Otrzymaneзарплаты wynagrodzenie i inne pobory162 związane z pracą . . Deductible premiums to a pension fund (4% max) 162 . . Взнос, выплаченный в накопительный фонд в этом году - макс.4% от зарплаты 160 . . . . Вычет по поводу Вычет по поводу Additional payments to a private pension fund (4% max) 160 субсидии на автомобиль, 32 субсидии на суточные, 33 . . . . people believe them and согласно RSK 3.04 . . согласно RSK 3.11 . . . . Deduction of car allow ance Deduction of travel allow ance . . acc. to RSK 3.04 32 (per diem payments) acc. to 33 . . RSK 3.11 . . . . 5 База для начисления подохдного и муниципальнрго налога Общая сумма 1+2+3-4 . . . . 21 . . 5 Tax base for income taxes Sum of 1+2+3-4 are duped. 2 Dofinansowanie na samochód. Diety. Dodatki. . . Dofinansowanie na 22 Diety dzienne 23 samochód . . . . 6 Вычетаемые налоги Dodatki w związku 296 . . 134 Inne dodatki . 135. Vanity Fair ain’t the first to make broad z samochodem . . . . 3 Inne dochody 7 Заполняется по поводу скидки для моряков Предоставляется бланк RSK 3.13 Zwrot wpłaconych składek na fundusz emerytalny 43 6 Taxes withheld at source 296 Работа моряка на судне 20тонн и более Работа моряка на судне менее 20тонн . . . . colonialist generalisations about Icelanders. Inne, co ? . . Зарплата моряка 317 . . Зарплата моряка 318 . . Количество дней, проведенных в море4 291Potrącenia Количество дней, проведенных в море 292 7 Calculation of seaman’s credit According to RSK 3.13 Składki, wpłata na fundusz emerytalny w ciągu roku - max. 4% od poborów 162 . . 8 Вклад в банках и сберегательных кассах Дивиденды Сумма вклада Seaman on boats 20 tons brutto or over Seaman on boats under 20 tons brutto Page 10 Składki, wpłata roczna na dodatkowy fundusz emerytalny 160 . . Potrącenia związane z . . Potrącenia związane. z . dofinansowaniem na samochód 32 otrzymana dietą dzienna, 33 Seaman’s salary 317 Seaman’s salary 318 wg. RSK 3.04 . . wg. RSK 3.11 ...... Вычет Общая сумма 301 12 11 Days at sea 291 Days at sea 292 дивидендов 5. Podstawa. do naliczenia podatku. od. dochodów i podatku. na cele lokalne. Razem 1+2+3-4 . .

Status/balance in savings and bank accounts Interest income Status Насотящий (ая) подтверждаю, что налоговая 8 информация заполнена добросовестно Число/подпись Телефон 6 Podatek już opłaconyWyjaśnienia w związku z wypełnianiem296 ...... Finally, though, she came. LITLAPRENT RSK 1.13 См. указания на оборотной странице . . . . 7 Obniżka podatku dla pracujacych na statkach rybackich Przeniesiono z druku RSK 3.13 Konto bankowe Taxes withheld 1 Otrzymane wynagrodzenie i inne pobory Możemy otrzymać nadpłatę podatku wpłaconą na rachunek Total 301 12 11 związane z pracą on interest ...... Praca na statkach o wielkości 20 ton brutto i powyżej Praca na statkach o wielkości poniżej 20 ton brutto Zeznanie podatkowe | WYDANIE UPROSZCZONE w banku poprzez wpisanie jego numeru poniżej. Tu należy podać nazwę pracodowcy, dla którego Możemy tylko podać numer rachnku bankowego w Islandii pracowaliśmy, a także wysokość całkowitych na nasze nazwisko. And we fell asleep. Pobory związane z pracą na 317 Pobory związane z pracą na 318 statkach rybackich poborów, bez jakichkolwiek. .potrąceń. W tymstatkach rybackich . . przypadku wynagrodzenie, to jakiekolwiek Ilośćpobory dni związanepołowowych z pracą.291 Imię i nazwisko Ilość dni połowowych 292 Adres Gmina Rok dochodowy 200___ With this signature the filer verifies that all information filed on Grapevine had some fun times Zeznanie podatkowe skladamy oddzielnie za the tax return is, to the best of his or her knowledge, correct. kazdy rok kaledarzowy Date/signature Telephone number 8 Stan na kontach bankowych Dochód z oprocentowaniaCzas pobytu na Islandii Kwota na rachunku

Data przybycia do Islandii Data wyjazdu z Islandii . . . . 1 Otrzymane wynagrodzenie i inne pobory związane z pracą RSK 1.13 LITLAPRENT See instructions on back page . . . . at the Northern Wave festival. . . Podatek od dochodu 11 . . Razem z oprocentowania 301 . . 12 ......

. . 21 . .

Potwierdzam, że raport ten został wykonany praw- 2 Dofinansowanie na samochód. Diety. Dodatki. idlowo, na podstawie wiarygodnych danych i Dofinansowanie na 22 Diety dzienne 23 moich wiadomości samochód . . . . Dodatki w związku . . Data i podpis 134 NumerInne dodatki telefonu 135 Page 12 z samochodem . . . . 3 Inne dochody 4 2 Dofinansowanie na samochód. Diety dzienne. Potrącenia RSK 1.13 0802 Litlaprent 5.000 Zwrot wpłaconych składekZobacz na fundusz emerytalnyinstrukcję na odwrocie Dodatki 43 . . W rubryce 162 należy wpisać potrącenie od wpłat na fundusz emerytalny, nie więcej jednak aniżeli 4% od poborów W przypadku, kiedy pracownik używał swojego własnego Inne, co ? . . samochodu na potrzeby pracodawcy i otrzymywał w rubryce 21. dofinansowanie, należy wpisać wysokość dofinansowania 4 Potrącenia W przypadku wpłaty na oddzielny fundusz emerytalny, potrącenie takie wpisujemy w rubryce 160. w rubryce 22. Składki, wpłata na fundusz emerytalny w ciągu roku - max. 4% od poborów 162 . . W przypadku, kiedy pracownik otrzymywał płacone diety Zwraca się uwagę na to, że zsumowane potrącenia w Składki, wpłata roczna na dodatkowy fundusz emerytalny 160 w związku z podrużami ze względu na pracę, należy . . rubryce 162 i 160 nie mogą być większe aniżeli 8% poborów wpisać wysokość otrzymywanych diet w rubryce 23. 32 . . 33 . . . . podanych w rubryce 21. W przypadku, kiedy pracownik otrzymał samochąd W rubryce 32 należy wpisać potrącenia ze względu na pracodawcy do swojego użytku, należy wpisać kwotę 5 Podstawa do naliczenia podatku od dochodów i podatku na cele lokalne Razem 1+2+3-4 . . otrzymane dofinansowanie na samochód, wg druku RSK 3.04. dodatku na samochód w rubryce 134. W rubrykę 33 należy wpisać potrącenia ze względu na They are like big fatty bears. Wszelkiego rodzaju dodatki, np: za posiłki, ubranie lub otrzymane diety, wg druku RSK 3.11. mieszkanie, należy wpisać w rubryce 135. 6 Podatek już opłacony 6 Podatek już opłacony 296 . . 3 Inne dochody Podatek, który został już opłacony poprzez pracodawcę należy W tym rozdziale należy wyszczególnić wszystkie inne wpisać do rubryki 296. dochody, także wypłaty z funduszu emerytalnego przed 7 Obniżka podatku dla pracujacych na statkach rybackich Przeniesiono z druku RSK 3.13 wyjazdem z kraju. 7 Obniżka podatku dla pracujacych na statkach rybackich Praca na statkach o wielkości 20 ton brutto i powyżej Praca na statkach o wielkości poniżej 20 ton brutto Pobory związane z pracą na statku rybackim o wielkości 20 ton Pobory związane z pracą na 317 Pobory związane z pracą na 318 brutto lub większym, należy wpisać w rubryce 317, a ilość dni Sleeping over the winter. statkach rybackich . . statkach rybackich . . Ilość dni połowowych 291 Ilość dni połowowych 292 połowowych w rubryce 291. Pobory związane z pracą na statku rybackim o wielkości poniżej 20 ton brutto należy wpisać w 8 Stan na kontach bankowych Dochód z oprocentowania Kwota na rachunku rubrykę 318, natomiast ilość dni poło wo wych w rubrykę 292. Informacje te znajdują się na druku RSK 3.13, który należy . . . . dołączyć do zeznania podatkowego. . . . . Podatek od dochodu 11 8 Razem z oprocentowania 301 . . 12 . . . . Stan na kontach bankowych Waiting for the warmer days Tu należy podać stan na kontach bankowych. Potrącony podatek należy wpisać do rubryki 301, a stan na koncie w rubrykę 11. Data i podpis Numer telefonu

RSK 1.13 Zobacz instrukcję na odwrocie

and time they can sell they Zobacz instrukcję na odwrocie houses and make profit again. And I am stupid enough to work and pay their food. www.rsk.is/international Sour Selma isn't exactly pleased with the big fatty bears. Page 4

ÓLAFUR ARNALDS ME, THE SLUMBERING NAPOLEON

GRAPEVINE MAMMÚT GRAPEVINE SKELKUR Í BRINGU

GRAND ROCK VALGEIR SIGURÐSSON GRASSROOTS #2 KID TWIST GRAND ROKK / FRIDAY MARCH 13 / 22:00 / 1.000 ISK HEMMI & VALDI / FRIDAY MARCH 20 / 21:00