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The Sustainable Future of the Scottish Textiles Sector: Challenges and Opportunities of Introducing a Circular Economy Model Lynn Wilson

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The Sustainable Future of the Scottish Textiles Sector: Challenges and Opportunities of Introducing a Circular Economy Model Lynn Wilson View metadata, citation and similar papers at core.ac.uk brought to you by CORE provided by Springer - Publisher Connector Wilson Textiles and Clothing Sustainability (2015) 1:5 DOI 10.1186/s40689-015-0005-y CASE STUDY Open Access The sustainable future of the Scottish textiles sector: challenges and opportunities of introducing a circular economy model Lynn Wilson Abstract Case description: Zero Waste Scotland introduced the concept of the circular economy to the Scottish textiles sector at events throughout 2013 to 2014. In April 2014, it commissioned research by independent consultants to examine the academic and industrial textile landscapes in Scotland, including developments in technical textiles and research into innovation in textile design and examples of circular economy models. The research identified a number of initiatives, including projects producing an alternative to denim and one developing cavity wall insulation from processed natural fibres. It made recommendations to Zero Waste Scotland about shaping the future landscape of textile innovation in Scotland and also offered examples of the circular economy from Scandinavia that might be applicable. Discussion and evaluation: The implementation of the circular economy into Scotland’s textile sector, underpinned by the aforementioned initiatives, can learn too from its textile and fibre heritage. Zero Waste Scotland is implementing an action plan which will offer support to the textile industry exploring ‘closed loop’ manufacturing, as well as funds for fashion designers to explore concepts such as zero-waste pattern design, luxury apparel from alternative textiles such as recycled polyethylene terephthalate and natural fibres such as nettle. A master class skills programme, delivered by leading UK and international experts, will bring together industry, academia, and higher education professionals to engage in learning and information exchanges about the circular economy. This paper presents Zero Waste Scotland’s role and the research findings. Keywords: Circular economy; Scottish textiles sector; Closed-loop manufacturing Background were John Lewis and Young Scot, the Scottish Youth Zero Waste Scotland (ZWS) was initially a programme information portal for 11 to 26 year olds. Both organisa- of the Waste Resource Action Programme UK (WRAP tions supported the ZWS organised ‘Spring Clean Your UK). On 1 July 2014, ZWS was formally launched as an Wardrobe Weekend’. independent Scottish not-for-profit company. ZWS’ textiles portfolio and work programme for 2014 On 11 February 2014, WRAP UK launched the Sus- to 2016 is managed by its Circular Economy Team, tainable Clothing Action Plan, SCAP 2020 Commitment. which also covers Oil and Gas Decommissioning and Sixty-five signatories and supporters of the SCAP 2020 Circular Economy Business Models. It identified various Commitment have pledged to reduce the carbon, water economic reports available from Scottish Enterprise (SE) and waste footprints of clothing they supply or receive and Scottish Development International (SDI) on the in the UK by 15% by 2020. Six of these companies are textiles industry in Scotlanda. However, there are few re- from Scotland. ports related to circular economy innovation in textiles ZWS supports SCAP 2020 and WRAP UK’s Love Your in Scotland and evidence of closed-loop manufacturing. Clothes campaign 2014 to 2016. In 2014, its key partners In April 2014, ZWS commissioned independent re- search consultants to undertake an examination of the Correspondence: [email protected] academic and industrial textile innovation landscapes in Zero Waste Scotland, Ground Floor, Moray House, Forthside Way, Stirling FK8 1QZ, UK © 2015 Wilson; licensee Springer. This is an open access article distributed under the terms of the Creative Commons Attribution License (http://creativecommons.org/licenses/by/4.0), which permits unrestricted use, distribution, and reproduction in any medium, provided the original work is properly credited. Wilson Textiles and Clothing Sustainability (2015) 1:5 Page 2 of 9 Scotland, including developments in technical textiles Scottish textile industry more materially circular. For ex- and research into innovation in textile design. ample, ZWS has been investigating innovative ways to The aim of the commissioned research was to contrib- protect and conserve resources and develop closed-loop ute to informing the direction and development of the manufacturing and high-value products and support ser- 2014 to 2016 work programme delivered by ZWS’ Circu- vices which contribute to a sustainable circular economy lar Economy Team with the textiles sector in Scotland. for the textiles sector. The report, submitted to ZWS August 2014, examined In a broader context, this work is part of ZWS’ support the circular economy in relation to the textiles sector in of the Scottish Government’s Zero Waste Plan which Scotland. has set ambitious targets to achieve 70% recycling and The circular economy is, of course, more than just an- maximum 5% to landfill by 2025 for all Scotland’s waste. other name for ‘reuse’. The Ellen McArthur Foundation ‘Safeguarding Scotland’s Resources’, launched on 9 June says of it: 2013, is the Scottish Government’s programme to reduce wasteandcreateamoreproductiveandcirculareconomyd The circular economy is a generic term for an economy with one clear benefit: ‘There is a potential saving of £2.9 that is regenerative by design. Materials flows are of billion through straightforward resource efficiency that this two types, biological materials, designed to reenter the programme will help tap.’ The Scottish Government has biosphere, and technical materials, designed to sealed its commitment by being the first government to circulate with minimal loss of quality, in turn join the Ellen MacArthur Foundation CE 100e. entraining the shift towards an economy ultimately powered by renewable energy.b Case description The research submitted to ZWS has informed its work The report submitted to ZWS found that there are programme for 2014 to 2016 (published internally August pockets of innovation in the textiles sector in Scotland 2014) in terms of themes, policy, master classes, training that are contributing to a circular economy; however, events, campaigns and engagement with both industry mainly, the driver is a commercial business goal rather and academia. The key objectives of the programme in- than corporate social responsibility. This may reflect the clude the following: relative weakness of the Scottish textile industry over the last decade and the lack of an overarching strategic To scope the potential for fibre processing in Scotland vision for the industry as well as one that is drawing on, and early enquiry around establishing a sustainability and support of, academic research. standard for Scotland Specifically, the report noted variations within the To showcase and pilot further industry models of a Scottish textiles industry’s four sub-sectors: design, heri- circular economy (CE) and resource-efficient good tage/aesthetic, manufacturing, and technical textiles. practice It highlighted the following: To seek greater engagement of industry with academia in terms of CE practice and theory 1. Examples of innovation or resource-efficient practice already happening in Scotland, such as (a) in its ZWS’ textiles portfolio includes the following: strong technical textiles - where opportunities may exist for closed-loop manufacturing and (b) The Scottish textiles sector computer-aided design. Bulky textile waste - carpets and mattresses, public 2. Scotland should strengthen what it already does well sector uniform procurement and bolster its sustainability activities by linking to Commercial and consumer behaviour change provenance, traceability, durability and quality. 3. But it also said that ‘no true examples of circular ZWS feels that the textiles sector has a significant part economy business models in Scotland were to play since it is the seventh most important contribu- identified’. To that end, it recommended that the tor to the Scottish economy, with an annual turnover of search should be broadened to Europe. £956 million. Exports of Scottish textile products are 4. It is hoped the creation of the Textiles Innovation valued at £375 million. There are over 570 companies Council will ‘be instrumental in driving change directly employing around 9,000 people across Scotland, towards a circular economy’c. with 55% of Scottish textile companies having fewer than 10 employees. The report, together with ZWS’ analysis of its work In areas such as the Scottish Borders, 50% of employment with the textiles sector up to 2014, highlighted the chal- is within the textile industry. Recent investments from lenges, opportunities and innovations that can make the international global brands such as Chanelf demonstrate Wilson Textiles and Clothing Sustainability (2015) 1:5 Page 3 of 9 the high value and lucrative position of the Scottish tex- The STLA events also gave the industry the opportun- tiles sector. Chanel announced at the beginning of 2014 ity to share their experiences and ideas as to how to that they would create 100 new jobs over the next 3 years make the industry more efficient. This included a case at their plant in Hawick. study delivered by the Scottish Leather Group present- Global economic trends too have had a positive impact ing their 11 years’ experience of working towards on the luxury export side of the Scottish textiles sector. sustainability.
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