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Download Complete Issue ISLAND STUDIES JOURNAL Volume 13 | Issue 2 | November 2018 islandstudies.ca ISSN: 1715-2593 ISLAND STUDIES JOURNAL Island Studies Journal is a peer-reviewed open access journal published by the University of Prince Edward Island’s Institute of Island Studies. https://www.islandstudies.ca Executive editor Adam Grydehøj (University of Prince Edward Island, Canada) Editorial board Laurie Brinklow (University of Prince Edward Island, Canada) Lead Copyeditor Gordon Cooke (Memorial University of Newfoundland, Canada) Deputy Editor for Business & Economics Scholarship Lisa Fletcher (University of Tasmania, Australia) Deputy Editor for Book Reviews Ilan Kelman (University College London, UK) Deputy Editor for Excellence & Disciplines Ulunnguaq Markussen (Ilisimatusarfik/University of Greenland, Kalaallit Nunaat) Deputy Editor for Indigenous Research & Outreach G. Edward MacDonald (University of Prince Edward Island, Canada) Deputy Editor for Institutional Relations Maeve McCusker (Queen's University Belfast, Northern Ireland) Deputy Editor for Literature Scholarship Yaso Nadarajah (RMIT University, Australia) Deputy Editor for Diversity & Regions Jan Petzold (Alfred Wegner Institute for Polar and Marine Research, Germany) Deputy Editor for Climate Change and Environment Scholarship Evangelia Papoutsaki (Unitec Institute of Technology, New Zealand) Deputy Editor for Digital Communications Elaine Stratford (University of Tasmania, Australia) Deputy Editor for Policy Impact Godfrey Baldacchino (University of Malta, Malta) Editor Emeritus Editorial correspondence: Instructions for submissions are available on the journal website (https://islandstudies.ca/guidelines_instructions.html). Other enquiries should be addressed to the Executive Editor at [email protected]. Institute of Island Studies University of Prince Edward Island, 550 University Avenue, Charlottetown Prince Edward Island, Canada C1A 4P3 ISSN 1715-2593 © 2018 – Institute of Island Studies, University of Prince Edward Island, Canada Island Studies Journal, 13(2) – 1715-2593 Pages 1-2: Table of contents Pages 3-54: Thematic section: Island textiles and clothing (Guest editor: Siún Carden) Pages 3-8: Guest editorial: Island textiles and clothing — Siún Carden https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.70 Pages 9-24: Designing national identity through cloth: pánu di téra of Cape Verde — Ana Nolasco https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.65 Pages 25-38: Reclaiming islandness through cloth circulation in Madagascar — Hélène B. Ducros https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.69 Pages 39-54: Craft, textiles, and cultural assets in the Northern Isles: innovation from tradition in the Shetland Islands — Lynn-Sayers McHattie, Katherine Champion, & Cara Broadley https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.47 Pages 55-202: Other scholarly papers Pages 55-70: Entangling (non)human isolation and connectivity: island nature conservation on Ile aux Aigrettes, Mauritius — Lisa Jenny Krieg https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.68 Pages 71-92: Effective island brand architecture: promoting island tourism in the Canary Islands and other archipelagos — Arminda Almeida-Santana & Sergio Moreno-Gil https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.45 Pages 93-110: Relationality and islands in the Anthropocene — Jonathan Pugh https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.48 Pages 111-128: Gendered consequences of mobility for adaptation in small island developing states: case studies from Maafushi and Kudafari in the Maldives — Phu Doma Lama https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.64 Pages 129-144: Science and culture in the Kerguelen Islands: a relational approach to the spatial formation of a subantarctic archipelago — Solène Prince https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.63 Pages 145-162: Feeding island dreams: exploring the relationship between food security and agritourism in the Caribbean — Adelle Thomas, Amelia Moore, & Michael Edwards https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.66 Pages 163-184: Tourism economies and islands’ resilience to the global financial crisis — Katarzyna Podhorodecka https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.43 Pages 185-202 An exercise in decision support modelling for islands: a case study for a ‘typical’ Mediterranean island — Anna Tsoukala, Ioannis Spilanis, Isabel Banos-González, Julia Martínez-Fernández, Miguel Angel Esteve-Selma, & George Tsirtsis https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.62 1 Pages 202-2016: Book reviews Postcolonial nations, islands, and tourism: reading real and imagined spaces by Helen Kapstein (reviewer: Jenny R. Isaacs) Arcticness: power and voice from the north by Ilan Kelman (Ed.) (review: Dani Redd) Tourism and language in Vieques: an ethnography of the post-Navy period by Luis Galanes Valldejuli (reviewer: Carlo A. Cubero) Öar och öighet: introduktion till östudier [Islands and islandness: introduction to island studies] by Owe Ronström (reviewer: Jørgen Rasmussen) On the edge: writing the border between Haiti and the Dominican Republic by Maria Cristina Fumagalli (reviewer: Masaya Llavaneras Blanco) Think like an archipelago: paradox in the work of Édouard Glissant by Michael Wiedorn (reviewer: Jonathan Pugh) Mini-India: the politics of migration and subalternity in the Andaman Islands by Philipp Zehmisch (reviewer: M. Satish Kumar) Understanding tropical coastal and island tourism development by Klaus J. Meyer-Arendt & Alan A. Lew (Eds.) (reviewer: Allison Elgie) 2 Island Studies Journal, 13(2), 2018, 3-8 Introduction: Island textiles and clothing Siún Carden University of the Highlands and Islands, UK [email protected] Abstract: This special thematic section of Island Studies Journal explores textiles and clothing from an island studies perspective. While there are many examples of textiles and clothing associated with particular islands, an explicitly island studies approach to them has not been fully developed. Such an approach offers the scholar of textiles and clothing a comparative perspective on disparate examples, and invites investigation of ‘island-ness’ beyond its frequent use in branding for a limited range of ‘heritage’ products. Within island studies, the often- remarked combination of materiality and symbolism in textiles and clothing provides insight into ‘island-ness’ in the round, encompassing environments, economies, communities and cultural imaginaries. This section includes work on the pánu di téra of Cape Verde, cloth circulation in Madagascar, and textile craft and the creative economy in Shetland. Keywords: clothing, crafts, dress, islands, textiles https://doi.org/10.24043/isj.70 © 2018 – Institute of Island Studies, University of Prince Edward Island, Canada. There are many varieties of textiles and clothing that are associated with islands in one way or another. Certain islands are synonymous with types of cloth, such as Harris tweed (McClellan, 2017), Maltese lace (Markwick, 2001) and Fair Isle (Butler, 2015) or Aran knitting (Carden, 2014; 2018a). Others are home to specific garments, such as the pánu di téra of Cape Verde (Nolasco, 2018) or the ‘island dress’ of Vanuatu (Cummings, 2013). Island-dwellers participate in the globalised textile industry as workers and consumers, act as “heritage entrepreneurs” through textile craft (Rodgers, 2011; see also Zorn, 2004), and are periodically invoked as inspiration for international fashion brands (e.g. Alexander McQueen©, 2017). However, an explicitly island studies perspective on textiles and clothing has not been explored. An island studies approach to this topic—that is, one that centres and problematises the significance of “island-ness” (Baldacchino, 2004, p. 272)—is worth pursuing. For a scholar of textiles, the many examples of textiles linked with particular islands invite consideration in comparative perspective, and investigation of their “island-ness” beyond its usefulness in romanticised branding. For a scholar of island studies, the often-remarked combination of materiality and symbolism in textiles (Miller 2005) offers a way to approach island-ness in the round, encompassing environments, economies, communities and cultural imaginaries. Both islands and textiles have been theorised in terms of borders, edges and liminality. Baldacchino (2004, pp. 273-274) suggests that ‘island-ness’ is marked by two characteristics, namely ‘locality’ (a sense of a discrete, bounded place) and an often overlooked ‘externality’ (“the filter, broker and interface of/for the island with the rest of the world”), and that the importance of these two characteristics is inversely proportional to the size and population of the island in question. The idea of ‘islandness’ as a sense of place that is dominated by its own continuous edge, which provides containment and connectivity, resonates with work on textiles and clothing as boundaries that both separate and communicate. For example, Entwistle (2000, p. 327) observes that “Dress lies at the margins of the body and marks the boundary between self and other, individual and society”, and Miller (2005, p. 6) describes 3 Siún Carden clothing as “the carapace that conducts and connects […] rather than separates our sense of what lies within and outside ourselves.” Similarly, Pajaczkowska (2005, p. 229) argues that textiles act as “neither object or subject, but as the threshold between.” If islands are places dominated by their edges, textiles and clothing can be thought of as all edge, acting as mediating surfaces with no ‘inside’ of their own. Another point of overlap in writing about islands and textiles is the long association of islands, craft and the pastoral. Harling Stalker and Burnett (2016, p. 195) point out that the “doctrine of islands” as “either places to escape
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