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Movies Sailors A plethora of movie heartthrobs, ranging from Gregory Peck Special edition designs were produced for teams taking to James Dean, sported the aviation bomber in Hollywood part in the America’s Cup to wear during the race. flms throughout the 40s and 50s. In the 1949 war movie The best version was custom-made for the Alinghi Twelve O’Clock High, about daylight bombing missions team during the 2003 and 2007 America’s Cup. against Nazi Germany, Brigadier General Frank Savage However you no longer have to be a competitive (played by Gregory Peck) is seen wearing the bomber. sailor to own this jacket. Any sailor worth his salt For ex-serviceman Joe Bartlett played by Humphrey will have one in his wardrobe. Worn by presidents, Bogart in the flm Tokyo Joe, the bomber is also very golfers and sailors alike, the jacket has become an all- much part of the character’s outft. But perhaps most time casual classic for men, both on land and at sea. unforgettable, is James Dean’s red bomber in the 1955 classic, Rebel Without A Cause, which he here effortlessly combines with a simple white T-shirt and a pair of jeans. Sailor Jacket Kevlar A sailor jacket is a bomber-style jacket In the 1980s, competitive sailors felt strongly that there with a short collar and full-length zip was a need for a sporting jacket, which was more made from synthetic, spray-proof material. comfortable than the classic wet weather gear. North Sails Loft came up with the idea of replacing the traditional fabric used in bomber-style jackets with waterproof Kevlar fabric, commonly used to make sails. This was the brand’s frst step into the world of apparel, but the fabric meant that the jacket was still rather stiff and rigid. The subsequent incarnations however, were a great success. Tomasoni, who owned the North Sails apparel licence, replaced Kevlar with nylon, thereby making the garment more comfortable whilst retaining its spray-proof qualities. 1970s IED Barcelona In the 1960s and 70s fight jackets became popular In 2010, the students of IED Barcelona, the amongst skinheads and scooter boys (a sub-group of European Institute of Design, were invited to the Mods). During this period, the skinhead subculture, create their version of the sailor jacket of the future. which originated among working class youths in The most interesting projects were shown at the London, was mainly based around music, fashion and Pitti Uomo fair in Florence. The best one has been lifestyle and was not actually about politics or race. selected and is now shown in North Sails stores. ICON nr: History Special editions The sailor jacket got its shape from the aviator bomber, Since the 80s, the North Sails jacket has undergone a also known as the fight bomber or bombardier jacket, drastic evolution. There have been colour, fabric and which was originally created for pilots by the Aviation design modifcations, all put into place to create a more Clothing Board in 1917. As most airplanes did not have a sophisticated, hi-tech garment for the esteemed sailor. closed cockpit at this time, pilots needed a garment, which The frst special edition was called would not restrict movement but keep them suffciently NS-X: it had the same shape but warm. Early versions of the jacket were made from was made using a more technical shearling or leather and were cropped in length, with snug fabric. The next step was the Gold “Simplicity is cuffs and a snug waistband. Around the time of WWII, Edition, which was made using a the G-1 fight jacket was also issued to US Navy pilots. high-level fabric and had special the ultimate sophistication” It is still a standard issue for offcers enlisted in aviation detailing, giving it an urban tech look. Sailor Jacket personnel in the US Navy, Marines and Coast Guard today. LEONARDO DA VINCI Hypothermia In 1936, Eddie Bauer designed the first quilted, nylon down parka. Following a near-death Paninari experience, where he had been fshing in wet woollen garments, Eddie Bauer was inspired to design a jacket In the 1980s, the Panino Café in Milan was the seat of which not only kept you warm, but which not only kept an emerging subculture: the “paninari”. The paninari you warm, but which could be worn during sporting were a group of youngsters, who wanted to distinguish activities, such as hiking because of its light weight. themselves by wearing designer clothes and welcoming Bauer chose goose down for its warmth and breathability. consumerism. The “panino” or fast-food sandwich He also devised the diamond quilting system as was a symbol of this. The movement spread to other a means to keep the feathers evenly distributed. Italian cities, and with it the paninaro look: Timberland The “Skyliner”, as his patented jacket was boots, Levi’s 501 jeans and Moncler down jackets. called, became an immediate hit in his stores. Hoodie down jacket Down insulation A down jacket is a quilted, nylon jacket filled Down feathers are the under-feathers of waterfowl. Each with duck or goose down. It is lightweight, ounce of high quality down has approximately two million durable and commonly worn in colder months. fuffy flaments that overlap and interlock to form a Some designs have hoods, others just a collar. protective layer keeping the warmth in and the cold out. It is these pockets of air trapped by the down fbres, which create an insulating effect. The fll power of down jackets can vary greatly, but generally speaking, the higher the fll power, the better the insulation. In technical terms “fll power” is the number of cubic inches that one ounce of down flls up. Down jacket are made using the down proof direct injection method, which does away with the traditional internal down bag. This greatly reduces the weight and bulk of each garment. Sportswear Due to the jacket’s history, it is most commonly U.S. Army Corps associated with sports and outdoor wear. These days, it is used by all manner of sportsmen, In 1942, Eddie was contacted by the United from mountaineers through to fshermen, however States Army Air Corps to develop the B-9 Flight because of its lightweight and warming qualities and Parka to keep pilots warm at high altitude. its “outdoorsy” look, it has become a staple in every Various brands helped manufacture over man’s wardrobe. Also, it is perhaps the fastest way for 50,000 parkas for WWII pilots, but only Eddie a city banker or offce worker to look like a lumberjack. Bauer was allowed to add his company logo onto the garments he made for army use. ICON nr: History H i l l a r y a n d S h e r p a According to climbing lore, the maverick Australian Tenzing alpinist George Finch was the first individual to The mountaineers Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa create a down jacket, using thin balloon material Tenzing Norgay became the first ever climbers and down feathers, in preparation for an Everest to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. expedition in 1922. Due to his precocious technical They each had kilos upon kilos of kit to carry, making innovations, he was selected as a “scientist” in “Simplicity is their loads much heavier than what climbers carry today. charge of the new-fangled oxygen apparatus, the ultimate sophistication” 003 Their down jackets, however, were comparatively Hoodie which was to be tested for the first time. lightweight, allowing them breathability and warmth Down Jacket during their ascent. LEONARDO DA VINCI Hypothermia In 1936, Eddie Bauer designed the first quilted, nylon down parka. Following a near-death Paninari experience, where he had been fshing in wet woollen garments, Eddie Bauer was inspired to design a jacket In the 1980s, the Panino Café in Milan was the seat of which not only kept you warm, but which not only kept an emerging subculture: the “paninari”. The paninari you warm, but which could be worn during sporting were a group of youngsters, who wanted to distinguish activities, such as hiking because of its light weight. themselves by wearing designer clothes and welcoming Bauer chose goose down for its warmth and breathability. consumerism. The “panino” or fast-food sandwich He also devised the diamond quilting system as was a symbol of this. The movement spread to other a means to keep the feathers evenly distributed. Italian cities, and with it the paninaro look: Timberland The “Skyliner”, as his patented jacket was boots, Levi’s 501 jeans and Moncler down jackets. called, became an immediate hit in his stores. Down jacket vest Down insulation A down vest is a sleeve-less quilted, nylon Down feathers are the under-feathers of waterfowl. Each jacket filled with duck or goose down. It is ounce of high quality down has approximately two million lightweight, durable and commonly worn in fuffy flaments that overlap and interlock to form a colder months as an extra layer of insulation. protective layer keeping the warmth in and the cold out. It is these pockets of air trapped by the down fbres, which create an insulating effect. The fll power of down jackets can vary greatly, but generally speaking, the higher the fll power, the better the insulation. In technical terms “fll power” is the number of cubic inches that one ounce of down flls up. Down jacket are made using the down proof direct injection method, which does away with the traditional internal down bag. This greatly reduces the weight and bulk of each garment.

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