Polo Shirt Proved More Comfortable and “Polo Shirt” Soon Became the Universal Term for the Tennis Shirt

Home , Aran jumper, Flight jacket, Le Coq Sportif, Polo neck

Movies Sailors

A plethora of movie heartthrobs, ranging from Gregory Peck Special edition designs were produced for teams taking to James Dean, sported the aviation bomber in Hollywood part in the America’s Cup to wear during the race. flms throughout the 40s and 50s. In the 1949 war movie The best version was custom-made for the Alinghi Twelve O’Clock High, about daylight bombing missions team during the 2003 and 2007 America’s Cup. against Nazi Germany, Brigadier General Frank Savage However you no longer have to be a competitive (played by Gregory Peck) is seen wearing the bomber. sailor to own this jacket. Any sailor worth his salt For ex-serviceman Joe Bartlett played by Humphrey will have one in his wardrobe. Worn by presidents, Bogart in the flm Tokyo Joe, the bomber is also very golfers and sailors alike, the jacket has become an all- much part of the character’s outft. But perhaps most time casual classic for men, both on land and at sea. unforgettable, is James Dean’s red bomber in the 1955 classic, Rebel Without A Cause, which he here effortlessly combines with a simple white T-shirt and a pair of jeans.

Sailor Jacket Kevlar

A sailor jacket is a bomber-style jacket In the 1980s, competitive sailors felt strongly that there with a short collar and full-length zip was a need for a sporting jacket, which was more made from synthetic, spray-proof material. comfortable than the classic wet weather gear. North Sails Loft came up with the idea of replacing the traditional fabric used in bomber-style jackets with waterproof Kevlar fabric, commonly used to make sails. This was the brand’s frst step into the world of apparel, but the fabric meant that the jacket was still rather stiff and rigid. The subsequent incarnations however, were a great success. Tomasoni, who owned the North Sails apparel licence, replaced Kevlar with nylon, thereby making the garment more comfortable whilst retaining its spray-proof qualities.

1970s IED Barcelona

In the 1960s and 70s fight jackets became popular In 2010, the students of IED Barcelona, the amongst skinheads and scooter boys (a sub-group of European Institute of Design, were invited to the Mods). During this period, the skinhead subculture, create their version of the sailor jacket of the future. which originated among working class youths in The most interesting projects were shown at the London, was mainly based around music, fashion and Pitti Uomo fair in Florence. The best one has been lifestyle and was not actually about politics or race. selected and is now shown in North Sails stores. ICON nr: History Special editions The sailor jacket got its shape from the aviator bomber, Since the 80s, the North Sails jacket has undergone a also known as the fight bomber or bombardier jacket, drastic evolution. There have been colour, fabric and which was originally created for pilots by the Aviation design modifcations, all put into place to create a more Clothing Board in 1917. As most airplanes did not have a sophisticated, hi-tech garment for the esteemed sailor. closed cockpit at this time, pilots needed a garment, which The frst special edition was called would not restrict movement but keep them suffciently NS-X: it had the same shape but warm. Early versions of the jacket were made from was made using a more technical shearling or leather and were cropped in length, with snug fabric. The next step was the Gold “Simplicity is cuffs and a snug waistband. Around the time of WWII, Edition, which was made using a the G-1 fight jacket was also issued to US Navy pilots. high-level fabric and had special the ultimate sophistication” It is still a standard issue for offcers enlisted in aviation detailing, giving it an urban tech look. Sailor Jacket personnel in the US Navy, Marines and Coast Guard today. LEONARDO DA VINCI Hypothermia

In 1936, Eddie Bauer designed the first quilted, nylon down parka. Following a near-death Paninari experience, where he had been fshing in wet woollen

garments, Eddie Bauer was inspired to design a jacket In the 1980s, the Panino Café in Milan was the seat of which not only kept you warm, but which not only kept an emerging subculture: the “paninari”. The paninari you warm, but which could be worn during sporting were a group of youngsters, who wanted to distinguish activities, such as hiking because of its light weight. themselves by wearing designer clothes and welcoming Bauer chose goose down for its warmth and breathability. consumerism. The “panino” or fast-food sandwich He also devised the diamond quilting system as was a symbol of this. The movement spread to other a means to keep the feathers evenly distributed. Italian cities, and with it the paninaro look: Timberland The “Skyliner”, as his patented jacket was boots, Levi’s 501 jeans and Moncler down jackets. called, became an immediate hit in his stores.

Hoodie down jacket Down insulation

A down jacket is a quilted, nylon jacket filled Down feathers are the under-feathers of waterfowl. Each with duck or goose down. It is lightweight, ounce of high quality down has approximately two million durable and commonly worn in colder months. fuffy flaments that overlap and interlock to form a Some designs have hoods, others just a collar. protective layer keeping the warmth in and the cold out. It is these pockets of air trapped by the down fbres, which create an insulating effect. The fll power of down jackets can vary greatly, but generally speaking, the higher the fll power, the better the insulation. In technical terms “fll power” is the number of cubic inches that one ounce of down flls up. Down jacket are made using the down proof direct injection method, which does away with the traditional internal down bag. This greatly reduces the weight and bulk of each garment.

Sportswear

Due to the jacket’s history, it is most commonly U.S. Army Corps associated with sports and outdoor wear. These days, it is used by all manner of sportsmen, In 1942, Eddie was contacted by the United from mountaineers through to fshermen, however States Army Air Corps to develop the B-9 Flight because of its lightweight and warming qualities and Parka to keep pilots warm at high altitude. its “outdoorsy” look, it has become a staple in every Various brands helped manufacture over man’s wardrobe. Also, it is perhaps the fastest way for 50,000 parkas for WWII pilots, but only Eddie a city banker or offce worker to look like a lumberjack. Bauer was allowed to add his company logo onto the garments he made for army use.

ICON nr: History H i l l a r y a n d S h e r p a

According to climbing lore, the maverick Australian Tenzing alpinist George Finch was the first individual to The mountaineers Sir Edmund Hillary and Sherpa create a down jacket, using thin balloon material Tenzing Norgay became the first ever climbers and down feathers, in preparation for an Everest to reach the summit of Mount Everest in 1953. expedition in 1922. Due to his precocious technical They each had kilos upon kilos of kit to carry, making innovations, he was selected as a “scientist” in “Simplicity is their loads much heavier than what climbers carry today. charge of the new-fangled oxygen apparatus, the ultimate sophistication” 003 Their down jackets, however, were comparatively Hoodie which was to be tested for the first time. lightweight, allowing them breathability and warmth Down Jacket during their ascent. LEONARDO DA VINCI Hypothermia

In 1936, Eddie Bauer designed the first quilted, nylon down parka. Following a near-death Paninari experience, where he had been fshing in wet woollen

Down jacket vest Down insulation

A down vest is a sleeve-less quilted, nylon Down feathers are the under-feathers of waterfowl. Each jacket filled with duck or goose down. It is ounce of high quality down has approximately two million lightweight, durable and commonly worn in fuffy flaments that overlap and interlock to form a colder months as an extra layer of insulation. protective layer keeping the warmth in and the cold out. It is these pockets of air trapped by the down fbres, which create an insulating effect. The fll power of down jackets can vary greatly, but generally speaking, the higher the fll power, the better the insulation. In technical terms “fll power” is the number of cubic inches that one ounce of down flls up. Down jacket are made using the down proof direct injection method, which does away with the traditional internal down bag. This greatly reduces the weight and bulk of each garment.

Sportswear

ICON nr: History According to climbing lore, the maverick Australian Film and TV alpinist George Finch was the first individual to In the 1985 film Back to the Future, the character create a down jacket, using thin balloon material Marty McFly played by Michael J. Fox, wears a red and down feathers, in preparation for an Everest down vest when travelling back to 1955. One character expedition in 1922. Due to his precocious technical in the movie mistakes the jacket for a life-vest. innovations, he was selected as a “scientist” in “Simplicity is Also Mork, an alien played by Robin Williams in the charge of the new-fangled oxygen apparatus, the ultimate sophistication” 004 late 70s sitcom Mork and Mindy and famed for greeting which was to be tested for the first time. people with the words “Na-nu-na-nu”, was often seen Down Jacket Vest sporting a rainbow coloured down vest in the series. LEONARDO DA VINCI The Guernsey

In the 16th Century, Guernsey was granted licence to import wool from England. The island’s first knitters were the wives and mothers of fisherman and farming families. From the 17th Century onwards, the knitting industry in the Channel Islands became very well known. Fisherman Fashion Extensive trading and shipping meant that both the wearing and the naming of the garment became widespread. It was In the 1960s the Irish Folk band, The thanks to Admiral Lord Nelson, who recommended it be Clancy Brothers, used Aran cable-knit worn by the Royal Navy during the Napoleonic Wars, jumpers to create their signature look. that the garment was first dyed navy blue. Previously, Steve McQueen turned the fisherman jumper into an it had only been knitted in un-scoured, natural wool. iconic fashion garment when he was photographed sporting an Aran cable-knit in the same decade.

Fisherman knit Design and Style

A fisherman jumper is a woollen Two styles of guernsey exist: a “working”, or plain jumper traditionally worn by fishermen guernsey, and a more elaborate design, traditionally and knitted by hand. saved for special occasions. In order to reduce the amount of time and materials needed to produce it, the “working” guernsey design was kept simpler. If you look carefully at a traditional fisherman knit jumper, you will notice how the story of a working life at sea emerges. For example, the rib at the top of the jumper suggests a rope ladder in the ships’ rigging, while the raised seam across the shoulder resembles a rope.

Technique North Sails Fisherman

Traditionally the guernsey was knitted “in-the- Inspired by the courageous men of the sea of years round” using five needles, in order to make it gone by, North Sails has added the fisherman basic seamless. Tightly packed wool fibres were to thier Icons. This modern, navy guernsey is made twisted hard in the spinning process, after from cotton and wool. Its sleek lines are reminiscent which stitches were knitted closely together. of the “working” guernsey made by fishermen’s This produced a finish, which improved wives hundreds of years ago. Although inspired insulation and allowed the garment to repel by real working fishermen, this garment works as rain and spray. It is estimated that 84 hours the perfect jumper, whether you are in an urban were needed to knit a simple guernsey setting or having a relaxed weekend by the sea.

ICON nr: History Aran jumper The guernsey was originally made for fisherman, Worn by fishermen off the West Coast of Ireland who relied on the seamless, tight, woollen the Aran jumper is another style of fisherman knit. jumpers to keep them warm when subjected It is thought that Aran jumpers were first created to the harsh elements in the North Sea. in the 18th Century. They feature cable patterns on The jumpers featured a variety of the chest, are off-white, and commonly made using different patterns, which indicated sheep’s wool. Originally, they were knitted using where the fisherman came from. un-scoured wool, which retained its natural oils. The patterns meant that fisherman could This not only made the garments breathable but “Simplicity is be identified in case of drowning and also water-resistant. An Aran jumper could absorb the ultimate sophistication” 007 returned to their families for burial. up to 30% of its weight in water before it felt wet.

Fisherman knit LEONARDO DA VINCI Hip Hop

From the 1970s onwards, in vibrant cities like New York, a variety of street cultures were emerging, including hip-hop and graffiti art. The hoodie Champion quickly became the garment of choice for hip-hop artists, graffiti artists and break dancers alike.

In the 1930s the Knickerbocker Knitting Company, It allowed graffiti artists, who were technically now known as Champion, launched a line of doing something illegal, to conceal their identity hoodie for employees, working in cold-storage while they “bombed” the subway and city walls. warehouses in Upstate New York. The cotton jersey Break dancers profited from the garment’s sweatshirt allowed a comfortable, extra layer of hood for their head-spins and to keep warm insulation for workers in those cold, winter months. between freestyle routines. It was during this era that the hoodie turned into a cultural symbol. Hoodie Campus A hoodie is a sweatshirt with a hood, usually made On campus, athletes started giving sweatshirts from heavy-knit cotton. Most commonly it has a muff to girlfriends. It was at this point that the sewn onto the front and a drawstring to adjust the hood sweatshirt made a leap from being a practical, opening. cosy garment to a being a personal style statement. These days, most universities and colleges sell sweatshirts with their logos and colours, making it a must-have garment on campus - perfect for everything from the last-minute frat party to the leisurely Sunday morning jog. University campuses, especially in America, have always been a breeding ground for fashion. For this very reason, it didn’t take long for the sportswear item to catch on beyond campus.

History Sports

In the early part of the 20th Century several different When hoodies first emerged on the sporting scene in American manufacturers began experimenting the 30s, they were worn by athletes on the sidelines with cotton jersey, a fabric until then only used Skaters to keep warm. It didn’t take long, however, before the for undergarments. In the 1920s, Benjamin cotton-jersey sweatshirt became part of every college In the late 1970s, thanks to skaters such as the Russell of Russell Manufacturing Company, and professional team’s attire - most commonly with Z-Boys, who were famous for skating in abandoned based in Alexander City, Alabama, decided to the team colours and logo printed across the front. For swimming pool bowls in Venice and Santa Monica, the redesign a women’s workwear jersey so American decades the hoodie was part of the NFL and the NBAs hoodie became a way of showing the world you were football players could wear it and not feel itchy. kit, not necessarily worn during games, but to warm- part of a free-spirited and underground subculture. Russell’s son Ben, who was a keen up and cool down. Since 2005 however, the NBA has football player had come up with the idea. maintained a ban on hoodies. On March 23 2012, in The new garment was strong, absorbent and order to show support for 17-year-old high school comfortable. Previously players had always worn student, Trayvon Martin, who had been shot dead in itchy, woollen uniforms. The idea took off and Russell Florida on Feb 26, LeBron James tweeted a picture formed a new division of the company, Russell Athletic. Silhouette of himself and his teammates in Miami Heat hoodies. ICON nr: The shape or style of the hoodie can be traced all the way back to Medieval Europe, when monks commonly wore robes with decorative hoods, Rocky known as cowls, as part of their daily clothing. In 1976, Sylvester Stallone starred as Rocky Balboa in the now classic film, Rocky. In numerous key scenes in the movie, Rocky is seen sporting a non- descript grey hoodie. It becomes much more than a garment to keep warm, it becomes a symbol “Simplicity is of Rocky’s work ethic and hard-knocks. The the ultimate sophistication” 008 film also re-established the hoodie’s working- class roots. After Rocky, this style of sweatshirt Hoodie Sweatshirt was firmly embedded in mainstream culture. LEONARDO DA VINCI Campus

On campus, athletes started giving sweatshirts Champion to girlfriends. It was at this point that the sweatshirt made a leap from being a practical, In the 1930s the Knickerbocker Knitting Company, cosy garment to a being a personal style statement. now known as Champion, launched a line of These days, most universities and colleges sell hoodie for employees, working in cold-storage sweatshirts with their logos and colours, making it a warehouses in Upstate New York. The cotton jersey must-have garment on campus - perfect for everything sweatshirt allowed a comfortable, extra layer of from the last-minute frat party to the leisurely Sunday insulation for workers in those cold, winter months. morning jog. University campuses, especially in America, have always been a breeding ground for fashion. For this very reason, it didn’t take long for the sportswear item to catch on beyond campus.

Sweatshirt Jesse Owens

A sweatshirt is a jumper made from heavy- During the Berlin Olympics in 1936, the American knit cotton. It usually has a crew neck, or round track and field athlete Jesse Owens brought home neckline, as well as sleeves that gather in a bunch. four gold medals. At the time, Nazi Germany was promoting concepts of “Aryan racial superiority” and depicting people of African heritage as inferior. Just before the Olympics began, Owens met Adi Dassler of Adidas, who persuaded him to wear Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik shoes, making Jesse Owens the first male African- American athlete to be sponsored by a brand. Owens stepped onto the podium to receive his medals wearing a team USA sweatshirt.

History The Steve McQueen Mark Zuckerberg

In the early part of the 20th Century several different Effect In 2012 the co-founder of Facebook, Mark Zuckerberg, American manufacturers began experimenting famously wore a hooded sweatshirt when meeting Epitomising everything that is male, Steve with cotton jersey, a fabric until then only used Wall Street investors a few months before the McQueen wore a blue sweatshirt with cut-off for undergarments. In the 1920s, Benjamin company’s initial public offering. Most think he was sleeves in the 1963 movie The Great Escape. Russell of Russell Manufacturing Company, establishing his non-conformist identity, rather than His character is seen riding motorbikes, based in Alexander City, Alabama, decided to making a fashion statement. Either way, the amount digging tunnels and getting dirty. redesign a women’s workwear jersey so American of press coverage the stunt garnered, is proof that In that year, McQueen single-handedly gave the football players could wear it and not feel itchy. the hoodie is still linked to subcultures for some. sweatshirt a whole different allure, leading it Russell’s son Ben, who was a keen Although it has established itself as a fashionable away from being merely a locker-room staple, to football player had come up with the idea. and practical item of clothing, it hasn’t lost its edge. being a casual must-have in every man’s wardrobe. The new garment was strong, absorbent and comfortable. Previously players had always worn itchy, woollen uniforms. The idea took off and Russell ICON nr: formed a new division of the company, Russell Athletic. Sports When sweatshirts first emerged on the sporting scene in the 30s, they were worn by athletes on the sidelines to keep warm. It didn’t take long, however, before the cotton-jersey sweatshirt became part of every high school, college and professional team’s essential attire - most commonly with the team colours and logo printed across the front. “Simplicity is 010 the ultimate sophistication”

Sweatshirt LEONARDO DA VINCI Campus

On campus, athletes started giving sweatshirts to Champion girlfriends. It was at this point that the sweatshirt made a leap from being a practical, cosy garment to In the 1930s the Knickerbocker Knitting Company, a being a personal style statement. These days, most now known as Champion, launched a line of universities and colleges sell sweatshirts with their hoodie for employees, working in cold-storage logos and colours, making it a must-have garment on warehouses in Upstate New York. The cotton jersey campus - perfect for everything from the last-minute frat sweatshirt allowed a comfortable, extra layer of party to the leisurely Sunday morning jog. University insulation for workers in those cold, winter months. campuses, especially in America, have always been a breeding ground for fashion. For this very reason, it didn’t take long for the sportswear item to become a hit on campus in America, and then worldwide.

Sweatpants Jesse Owens

Traditionally worn for exercise, sweatpants are loose- During the Berlin Olympics in 1936, the American fitting, comfortable trousers made from cotton jersey track and field athlete Jesse Owens brought home with a drawstring and elasticated waist and cuffs. four gold medals. At the time, Nazi Germany was promoting concepts of “Aryan racial superiority” and depicting people of African heritage as inferior. Just before the Olympics began, Owens met Adi Dassler of Adidas, who persuaded him to wear Gebrüder Dassler Schuhfabrik shoes, making Jesse Owens the first male African- American athlete to be sponsored by a brand. Owens stepped onto the podium to receive his medals wearing a team USA sweatshirt.

History The Sunday Uniform Black power salute

In the early part of the 20th Century several different In 1939, the French brand Le Coq Sportif Sweatpants are associated with casualwear American manufacturers began experimenting launched a so-called “sweat suit”. and exercise, but they have been part of some with cotton jersey, a fabric until then only used It consisted of a loose-fitting sports jersey jacket key political moments in sporting history. for undergarments. In the 1920s, Benjamin and loose-fitting pants with cuffs at the ankles. In the 1968 Olympics, for example, the African- Russell of Russell Manufacturing Company, The French referred to it as American athletes Tommie Smith and John Carlos did the based in Alexander City, Alabama, decided to the “Sunday Uniform” at the time. Black Power salute, standing on the winners’ podium. redesign a women’s workwear jersey so American As the national anthem was being played, their football players could wear it and not feel itchy. black-gloved fists remained in the air throughout as Russell’s son Ben, who was a keen an act of protest. Both were in team USA sweatpants. football player had come up with the idea. The new garment was strong, absorbent and comfortable. Previously players had always worn itchy, woollen uniforms. The idea took off and Russell ICON nr: formed a new division of the company, Russell Athletic. Sports When sweatshirts first emerged on the sporting scene in the 30s, they were worn by athletes on the sidelines to keep warm. It didn’t take long, however, before the cotton-jersey sweatshirt became part of every high school, college and professional team’s essential attire - most commonly with the team colours and logo printed across the front. “Simplicity is 011 the ultimate sophistication”

Sweatpants LEONARDO DA VINCI Rock ‘N’ Roll

The 60s saw the emergence of tie-dye and screen- printing. With it, the T-shirt became a vehicle for protest, as well as a medium for wearable art, slogans and messages. This guaranteed its T-shirt and success as a fashion accessory for decades to Art come. During the 60s and 70s, the music industry also capitalised on the garment’s popularity. Artists the world over have worn T-shirts Rock bands began selling T-shirts with slogans as their working outfit, but at times it and images as merchandise at concerts. has even crept into the work itself… Many of the memorable T-shirts created in the 70s, such as the Rolling Stones tongue and lips logo, have become embedded in pop culture and are now part of our visual iconography. T-shirt Hollywood (or Tee-shirt, or Tee) T-shirts really took off in the 1950s. From the

So-called because of its shape, a T-shirt is typically moment Marlon Brando wore a classic white crew made using cotton fibres, knitted in a jersey stitch, neck T-shirt in the film A Streetcar Named Desire in giving it that soft distinctive texture. It usually has short 1951, it became fashionable to wear T-shirts as outer sleeves and a round neck-line known as “crew neck”. garments. In 1955, T-shirts became even cooler and a touch rebellious after James Dean’s performance in Rebel without a Cause. Thanks to Elvis Presley, Steve McQueen and various other Hollywood heartthrobs the garment rapidly gained popularity.

The Ironic T-shirt The ironic T-shirt probably came to life in second- The Surfing Tee hand stores. In this setting, old prints and slogans from the 70s and 80s became unintentionally Perhaps the earliest example of a marketing funny, as the T-shirts’ original subject matter came tool, the surfing T-shirt was available face-to-face with modern-day cultural norms. in every surf shop in America by 1962. Common ironic T-shirts include old concert The all-cotton, no-pocket T-shirts were sold tours, dated advertising slogans and souvenir with two colour company logos screened T-shirts, such as the classic “My father went across the back, advertising board-makers. to ... and all I got was this lousy T-shirt”. The surfing Tee was a way of showing the The ironic T-shirt has become so fashionable world you rode waves, and it soon became a that brands are now producing fake vintage Tees, hit among non-surfing teens and young men. with intentionally dated and awkward slogans. ICON nr: History Although the absolute origin remains unclear, one thing is certain: by 1913 the T-shirt was included as part of the US Navy’s standard-issue gear as an undergarment to be worn under a uniform. The US Army soon followed suit, as the lightweight cotton material and short sleeves were preferable to soldiers, to the former wool equivalent. The garment became the go-to basic for workers, “Simplicity is including miners, dockworkers and farmers. the ultimate sophistication” 012 T-shirts allowed ease of movement, were quick drying and affordable. By 1920, the word T-shirt became T-shirt an official word in the American-English dictionary. LEONARDO DA VINCI From tennis to polo

In the 1930s, other sportsmen – most notably polo players – became aware of Lacoste’s new invention and readily adopted the look. They had previously only been used to the button-down Brooks Brothers’ style shirt, which prevented their collars from flapping in the wind. But the polo shirt proved more comfortable and “polo shirt” soon became the universal term for the tennis shirt.

Polo Shirt The Mod Scene

A polo shirt – sometimes also referred to as a golf In the 1960s, the Mod scene adopted the polo or tennis shirt – is a short-sleeved shirt with a collar shirt, pairing it with Dr Martens boots and slim-fit The polo and the sea that typically has a placket with two or three buttons. It suits. The Mod youth subculture took a classic is made from knitted rather than woven cloth (usually item from the establishment and subverted it. The polo shirt has been worn by seafaring piqué cotton), and can be worn smart or casual. The act created a turning point in men’s sportsmen, such as John F. Kennedy, for decades. fashion across Europe and America. Recent technical innovations such as dry piquet fabric and no seams have added an extra level of performance to an all-time classic garment. Today, the world’s most competitive sailing crews have adopted the polo shirt as part of their wardrobe both on land and at sea, often customizing their shirts with the logo of the boat or crew they are part of.

Status Symbol The Logo

In the 1950s, the Lacoste polo shirt was being exported The polo shirt as a status symbol really came into to the US in a variety of colours and advertised as its own in 1972 when Ralph Lauren released “the status symbol of the competent sportsman”. a line of polo shirts in a variety of colours. It had reached extreme popularity, especially Wishing to suggest sophistication and timelessness, among the upper classes, as it was commonly sold he emblazoned each shirt with a polo player in high-end department stores at elevated prices. logo and called the brand Polo Ralph Lauren, A number of famous people, including President after the sport played by the rich and the royals. Dwight D. Eisenhower, chose to wear the polo shirt The polo shirt was an important part of the History to play golf, giving it even more kudos among the collection and its emblem soon became synony- rich. Other celebrities, including Paul Newman, Clint mous with supposed wealth. The Polo shirt came about because traditional “tennis Eastwood and John F. Kennedy (who liked to wear polo whites”, which consisted of long-sleeved button- shirts on his yacht excursions) helped make it a style up shirts worn in the 19th and 20th century, were icon and a must-have basic in everyman’s wardrobe. thought to be too restrictive. René Lacoste, the French ICON nr: multiple Grand Slam tennis champion, designed a white, loose-knit piqué cotton shirt with a collar and a shirttail, which was longer in the back than the front. The Lacoste polo made its debut at the 1926 US Open championship. A number of astute design elements solved all the problems that came with more traditional tennis attire: short sleeves meant ease of movement, the collar could be loosened for “Simplicity is comfort or upturned to protect the neck from the the ultimate sophistication” 014 sun, the tennis tail meant shirts were no longer in jeopardy of coming un-tucked, and the piqué Polo Piquet cotton was a more durable and breathable fabric. LEONARDO DA VINCI Cult status Workwear today

Work pants, in particular by brands such as Dickies, True, work pants have been adopted by musicians became popular among American youth in the and skaters alike, but they still form an essential part early 90s. Teenage skateboarders were attracted of the wardrobe in certain modern-day industries, to the garment due to its hard-wearing qualities. particularly on construction sites, farms and ranches. Within a few years, work pants turned from being These days, heavy-duty threads and reinforced rivets strictly workwear, to being a cult fashion item. at vital stress-points extend the durability of work pants even further. Also, for certain industries, high-tech material is used these days to make the pants resistant to water, flames and abrasion.

Work pants Dickies

Originally designed for harsh working environments, Not long after, in 1918, a few friends grouped ranging from agriculture through to the oil industries, together and launched the U.S. Overall Company. work pants are typically made from a hard-wearing Four years later it became the Williamson- fabric such as canvas and renowned for durability Dickie Manufacturing Company also known as and comfort. They have a minimum of three pockets, “Dickies” – a workwear company to rival Carhartt, but the number and placement depends on the design which later became famous for its work pants. of the pants and what purpose they are used for.

Casualwear

Although the work pants originated as the staple outfit for men working in harsh environments, such as on the railroads or in the motoring industry, they are no longer confined to these industries History WWII and have become a basic in most men’s wardrobe. The working pant is now seen as a It is believed that work pants evolved out of During the war the American Government asked piece of tough, modern casualwear. the workwear overall, which was invented by a workwear company to produce the uniforms for Hamilton Carhartt in 1889 and was made from the military. The government knew they could duck (a type of canvas) and denim fabrics. rely on the garments’ durability and performance, The workwear overall was the ideal garment for men making it a good choice of outfit for the men at war. working the railroads at the end of the 19th Century.

ICON nr: Music

The popularity of workwear pants was not limited to skaters, during that era. Musicians such as Snoop Doggy-Dogg and Tupac also began wearing the sturdy, often khaki-coloured or black pants as part of their signature look, influencing youth even more. “Simplicity is 015 the ultimate sophistication”

Work Pants LEONARDO DA VINCI Military Surplus

After the end of World War II, military surplus clothing - and therefore chinos - became readily available to everyman. Chinos were being sold in markets and second hand stores at affordable prices. Chinos and golf This meant that they were being bought by a Origin of word new group of consumers, including teenagers. Ever since the look changed from plus-fours to Unlike jeans, chinos could be worn casual or smart. something a little more modern, chinos have been the By the 1950s, the cotton trousers were There is some debate over the origin of the word de rigueur look for golfers. As the sport is steeped in an essential part of the preppy look. “chino”. Some claim it’s a corruption of the Spanish word tradition, players are expected to look the part, making for “China” or “Chinese”, others maintain that they got chinos the perfect choice. These days a lot of sporting their name because the twill cloth was woven in China. brands have started using more technical fabrics, with quick-drying and wicking qualities, meaning golfing chinos are sophisticated, yet highly functional. Chino pants Chinos are flat-fronted trousers made from 100% cotton twill cloth. They have parallel or tapered legs, slanting side pockets and one or two back pockets. Traditionally chinos were khaki-coloured, but these days they come in a variety of colours.

History Varsity look

The British Army officer Harry Burnett Lumsden was After the 1950s, chinos became an essential part thought to have been the originator of khaki trousers. In of the Varsity or college look, especially in 1848, he felt that the Corps of Guides he was commanding combination with an emblazoned baseball jacket. on the frontier between India and Afghanistan, In the 1980s, films such as The Breakfast Club and Sailing Club would benefit from more earth-coloured clothes. Ferris Bueller’s Day Off, which became instant The cotton cloth of the new uniforms was dyed classics amongst teens, helped chinos gain even more As chinos are less formal than suit trousers but more using mulberry juice. This resulted in a yellowy popularity. Although initially worn mostly by preppy dressy than jeans, they are often used in dress codes shade, referred to as khaki, the Urdu word for types, chinos recently crossed over into the world of for men, in particular in sailing or yachting clubs. dusty. Other military forces soon adopted chinos, music and high fashion, when artists such as André Often these might be combined with a appreciating the trousers’ functionality, sturdiness 3000 and Pharrell Williams began sporting them. polo shirt, deck shoes and a blazer. and camouflage qualities. Chinos gained even more popularity in 1898 during the Spanish-American War. At the time, they were used widely by the ICON nr: US Army, who were stationed in the Philippines. American Aviation

Recognising the functionality and comfort of chinos, the American Air Force also introduced them as part of their uniform after the Spanish-American War. American pilots were seen by many as heroes - symbols of a peaceful future, fighting for a better tomorrow. “Simplicity is It didn’t take long for chinos to become popular outside the ultimate sophistication” 016 of the military and Airforce, precisely because of their association with a free-thinking, fighting spirit. Chino Pants LEONARDO DA VINCI Art and literature

Picasso was often photographed in his studio wearing merely Bermuda shorts, with a paintbrush in his hand. On sweltering days, this was his outfit of choice. What’s more, there are numerous pictures Sports of Ernest Hemingway in Bermuda shorts. No doubt this was a good look in both Florida Bermuda shorts began their life as dressy, uniform- and Cuba, where the author had residencies. style shorts but became the go-to cut for sportsmen, such as tennis players, golfers, hikers and sailors. Over time the cotton fabrics changed to more technical apparel, but the cut remains very similar today.

Bermuda shorts B e r m u d a

Bermudas are casual knee-length shorts, with a In the 1920s, Bermudians began copying the British cuffed or un-cuffed hem about 3 cm above the knee. style of uniform for civilian use. Tailors in the city of Hamilton modified the style, thereby establishing the shorts as a fashion item. Bankers and other businessmen began wearing them. Following that, British tourists who arrived by steamship for winter holidays, were the first to copy the look. This helped spread the style around the world. From that moment on, the shorts quickly became better known as casual wear and were soon also manufactured in a variety of shades, including pastel colours.

History Doo-Wop Sailing

It is thought that Bermuda shorts were first conceived By 1957, this style of shorts was so popular in America Born on the island of Bermuda, which is situated by the British Military Forces in the late 19th Century. that the band The Delroys released a song called in the Atlantic Ocean, the shorts became an instant They had to come up with a light, but appropriate “Bermuda Shorts” on Apollo Records. It became a hit. hit with sailors, both on the island and beyond. solution for personnel stationed in tropical The Beach Boys did their own recording of the Yachtsmen happily wore bermudas when going to their and sub-tropical parts of the British Empire. song in the 60s, which they released on an album yachting club. What’s more, for many sailors it became Also, when they founded the yacht clubs in St George called “In the Beginning/ the garment of choice when out at sea because the and Hamilton in Bermuda, the dress code for the British The Garage Tapes”. garment is quick-drying and allows ease of movement. Military was khaki shorts, with khaki knee length socks and for the Royal Navy it was similar but in white. National Dress

Bermuda shorts are the island’s national dress. Although most people associate Bermuda shorts with holidays or casualwear, in Bermuda, they are considered appropriate business attire, when worn in ICON nr: combination with a shirt, knee-length socks and a blazer.

“Simplicity is 017 the ultimate sophistication”

Bermuda Shorts LEONARDO DA VINCI American male La Sprezzatura

Considered the defining garment of the Famous for his impeccable fashion sense, American male, the button-down shirt has Gianni Agnelli, the former president of Fiat, now been around for over 100 years. In 1939, often wore the collars of his button-down shirts the brand Arrow famously advertised “You can deliberately unbuttoned. His style both influenced join the world’s best dressed fraternity for $2”. and inspired menswear around the world. In the 1950s, the brand was one of the first to identify A lot of his style signifiers, such as the the shirt’s potential outside of America and unbuttoned collar or wearing his wristwatch began exporting it to Europe. over his cuff were done to convey a sense of This meant that even men outside of the U.S. “sprezzatura” (from Baldassare Castiglione’s could get a taste of the preppy, Ivy League look. The Book of the Courtier) – the Italian art and nonchalance of making the difficult look easy.

The Button-Down shirt Mods and Jazz

The button down shirt is a long-sleeved In the 1960s, inspired by American jazz garment with a so-called “polo” collar, which musicians such as Miles Davis, Dizzy Gillespie, buttons down. Usually made from Oxford Art Blakey and Chet Baker, UK-based jazz fans cloth, it also has a full-length opening at were buying button-down shirts from America. the front and is fastened using buttons. In 1965, however, production of button- down shirts began in the UK. Mods in particular responded well to the British-made shirts.

The 60s and art Sailing

The button-down shirt pops up again and again Although not strictly linked to the sport of sailing, in Dennis Hopper’s photographs (from The the button-down shirt has become a favourite History Lost Album exhibition), which document amongst sailors, as it can be worn casually life and culture in the American 60s. or in a more sophisticated manner, which is The button-down shirt began its longstanding career We see Hockney, Rauschenberg, Warhol and sometimes called for when entering a yacht club. as a must-have gentleman’s basic on England’s polo felds. other famous artists in the sartorial classic, JFK, who makes sailing look effortless and In 1896, John Brooks of the Brooks Brothers making it a much-desired garment in that decade. easy, often wore a button-down when out at sea. attended a polo match while on a trip abroad and discovered that the players all had collars, which had been sewn on to prevent them from fapping. This gave him the idea to adapt shirts worn by English polo players and he created the now famous button- down collar. In America, the button-down collar was used mostly on sports shirts until the 1950s. Although still considered a casual shirt, it Style icons ICON nr: is no longer exclusively linked to sports. There are numerous other undisputed style icons such as Fred Astaire, Paul Newman, Robert Redford and Cary Grant in North by Northwest, who took the button-down shirt and ran with it. All of these idols helped turn the button-down into a must-have item in every man’s wardrobe. “Simplicity is 018 the ultimate sophistication” Oxford Buttom-Down Shirt LEONARDO DA VINCI Babe Ruth Pop Culture

From 1914 onwards, during Babe Ruth’s era playing for As the baseball cap has become such an American the Boston Red Sox and the New York Yankees, the baseball icon, it now frequently appears on the heads of cap got a big boost as the public started wearing caps to numerous famous characters in books and movies show which team they supported. The style was simple, yet ranging from Snoopy and Charlie Brown to functional – perfect for a country, which glorifed democracy. Magnum PI. Directors such as Spike Lee and Steven Spielberg are rarely seen without one, presidents wear it, golf players, tennis players… even the Dalai Lama was photographed wearing one once. It can be worn facing forwards, sideways or backwards. When it comes to the baseball cap, there are no rules…

Baseball Cap

Considered an American icon, a baseball cap is a type of soft hat with a rounded crown and a stiff peak. Professional Use Typically, the front of the cap has a logo and the back of the cap is either fitted to the wearer’s In America the baseball cap is no longer only used head size or may have an adjustable plastic strap. by sportsmen. The Navy and the US Coast Guard have incorporated the hat into their official uniform. The front of the cap usually has a command logo on it and particular colours are worn to denote specific jobs or functions. As it’s a practical alternative to the traditional peaked cap, state police forces also use the baseball cap as part of their professional uniform.

1940s Regattas

The modern baseball cap as we know it was not born until The baseball cap has become the hat of choice the 1940s, when latex rubber became the stiffening for sailors and yachtsmen during regattas. material inside the hat. The peak, also referred to as Not only does it help against the glare of the sun, the “bill” or “brim” of the cap was designed to protect but it also stops hair from flapping around at crucial the players’ eyes from the sun. By the 1940s, the cap moments in the race. Due to its popularity amongst History had also become more structured compared with the sailors, the “hanger-loop” was invented as an extra floppier version of the 19th and 20th century. What’s add-on. It allows you to fasten your cap onto an item of The amateur baseball team the Brooklyn Excelsiors, more, it was an important way with which to identify a clothing to prevent it from flying off in sudden gusts. of Brooklyn New York, were the first to sport a baseball team, as it usually sported the team’s colours and log. cap. This first generation cap included a long visor and a From this point on, it did not take long for workmen button top. Referred to as the “Brooklyn-style” baseball such as truckers, farmers and labourers to adopt cap, it was the precursor to the modern-day baseball cap. the baseball cap as part of their working uniform. ICON nr:

1980s and 1990s

Thanks to hip hop artists such as Ice Cube, N.W.A and Easy-E, who wore baseball caps while performing and in their videos, the baseball cap became a sought- after fashion item in the 80s and 90s. What’s more, “Simplicity is 020 it became a symbol of American popular culture. the ultimate sophistication” If you wore a cap that showed your team colours or neighbourhood, you were said to be “representing”. Baseball cap LEONARDO DA VINCI 16th Century

By the 16th century, soldiers, labourers and sailors all wore Monmouth caps as part of their every day apparel. Often these were rolled up to make the shape of the hat fit the head more snugly. The this style of hat became so popular and essential to the British wool industry that Queen Elizabeth passed the so-called Sumptuary Laws in 1571 stating that all folk over the age of six should wear a wool hat on Sundays and on holidays or else face a fine.

The Beanie Movies and TV Music and skating

Designed to provide warmth in cold weather, Due to their popularity, beanies in all manner of colours The American rap artist Marshall Bruce Mathers III, the knit cap or beanie, is a head-hugging and shapes have become the headgear of choice for a better known as Eminem, shot to fame after the release cap made from wool or synthetic fibres. variety of characters in film and TV. One need only of his second album Slim Shady LP in 1999. Like other think of Jack Nicholson’s character R.P. McMurphy rap artists of that era, he often wore a black or grey in the 1975 film One Flew Over the Cuckoo’s Nest. beanie as part of his signature look – sometimes even This beanie-clad character steals a hospital bus, over a bandana and cap. Meanwhile, the U2 guitarist takes his ward colleagues deep-sea fishing and tells The Edge is so famed for wearing his beanie, he hardly them, “You’re not nuts, you’re fishermen.” The ever goes on stage or for an interview without it. characters Stan Marsh and Eric Cartman from the In the early 90s, a lot of skateboarders were listening animated television series Southpark also rarely to rap and hip-hop. It is perhaps because of this that feature without their knit caps. In fact the hats have they adopted the beanie as a fashion favourite too. very much become integral to these iconic characters.

History

The beanie was born out of its precursor, the Monmouth cap. This was a small, round, close-fitting hat, which was either brimless or with a small brim. The Monmouth cap originated in Monmouth, Wales - a town rich in wool - in the early 15th Century and gained popularity for its simple construction and warmth.

ICON nr:

Watch Caps

The U.S. Navy issues tight-fitting, 100% wool beanies as part of their official attire. As these are worn during a sailor’s watch-keeping duty, they are referred to as “watch caps” and worn by all Navy personnel, from aircraft carrier “Simplicity is 021 deck hands to motor torpedo boat crew members. the ultimate sophistication”

Beanie LEONARDO DA VINCI Benetton Preppy Look

In 1965, Benetton saw a gap in the market and The lambswool jumper was an essential part started producing lambs wool jumpers in a variety of the “bon chic bon genre” or preppy crowd’s of different and striking colours, straying away wardrobe. In the 80s and 90s, wearing the garment from the classic navy, grey and cream towards a casually slung over the shoulders, combined with palette which included all the colours of the rainbow. a shirt or polo neck, was a signature look, which attempted to say: “I am rich and have style.”

Light lambswool Lambswool

crew neck Lambswool is the highest quality of sheep’s wool on the market. It is usually taken from A simple, knitted garment with long sleeves and a a sheep at its very first shearing, when it is crew neck, the lambswool jumper is a classic. around seven months old. Soft to the touch, lambswool is generally 50mm or shorter, with incredible spinning qualities allowing for beautiful knits. It requires minimal processing, does not trap heat and has the ability to regulate the body at an even temperature.

History The lambswool jumper is a simplified version of Dean and Delon Sailing the guernsey jumper, which was originally made for fisherman to keep them warm when out at sea. Hollywood actors such as James Dean and Alain Although not a technical garment, the lambswool Unlike the guernsey, the lambswool jumper has Delon wore lambswool jumpers both on and jumper is a favourite among sailors, for those non- no patterns or specific design elements, but rather off-screen. Thanks to the ease with which they competitive moments out at sea. John F. Kennedy it has a very simple and elegant silhouette. In the wore this garment, it quickly became was a big fan of the classic lambswool jumper and 1920s, the jumper replaced sporting coats and a classic in every man’s wardrobe. is seen wearing one in many a photograph of his blazers of the early 1900s. This was in part due to sailing moments, often combined with chinos. a growing desire for casualness, but also because the Prince of Wales was known to wear a jumper on the golf course and his style was much admired.

ICON nr: The Gentleman Distinguished men used to have to wear a shirt and jacket to look stylish and elegant. Since the 50s however, men have also been able to combine a shirt or even a T-shirt with a lambswool jumper for an effortless, relaxed look. The jumper became a favourite amongst golfers, who wanted to look the part on the golf course whilst not compromising on warmth. Following “Simplicity is on from golfers, it was soon adopted by all the ultimate sophistication” 022 sportsmen, including cricketers and tennis players. Light Lambswool

Crew Neck LEONARDO DA VINCI Varsity Preppy Look

In 1865, Harvard University’s Baseball team The lambswool jumper was an essential part introduced the concept of Varsity letter jumpers. of the “bon chic bon genre” or preppy crowd’s These were lambswool jumpers, with letters wardrobe. In the 80s and 90s, wearing the garment stitched on, for individuals who had excelled at casually slung over the shoulders, combined with the sport. Other colleges and sports followed suit a shirt or polo neck, was a signature look, which and the Varsity V-neck soon became the must- attempted to say: “I am rich and have style.” have garment on campus, as wearing one was synonymous with being an outstanding sportsman.

Light lambswool Lambswool

V neck Lambswool is the highest quality of sheep’s wool on the market. It is usually taken from A simple, knitted garment with long sleeves and a a sheep at its very first shearing, when it is V-neck, the lambswool jumper is a classic. around seven months old. Soft to the touch, lambswool is generally 50mm or shorter, with incredible spinning qualities allowing for beautiful knits. It requires minimal processing, does not trap heat and has the ability to regulate the body at an even temperature.

ICON nr: The Gentleman Distinguished men used to have to wear a shirt and jacket to look stylish and elegant. Since the 50s however, men have also been able to combine a shirt or even a T-shirt with a lambswool jumper for an effortless, relaxed look. The jumper became a favourite amongst golfers, who wanted to look the part on the golf course whilst not compromising on warmth. Following “Simplicity is on from golfers, it was soon adopted by all the ultimate sophistication” 023 sportsmen, including cricketers and tennis players. Light Lambswool

V Neck LEONARDO DA VINCI The Military

In the latter part of the 19th Century, it was men and not women who were the first wearers of the so-called cinch belt – a belt, which drew in the waist to improve a person’s stature. Mostly worn by Russian and Eastern European army soldiers, the belts were sometimes even combined with corsets to make the waist even smaller, and to create a contrast with the chest and shoulders.

D-Ring Belt Sailing

The D-ring belt is a band or strap, typically made Originally, belts were made out of leather. This from heavy cloth or canvas. It has a double however, did not work well for sailors as the salt D-ring at one end used for fastening and is water damaged the leather. Then sailors started using worn around the waist to support trousers. the ropes that were used for manoeuvring sails as belts. But as these were not adjustable, it created some problems. At the time, sailing bags were closed using the double D method, so the same system was applied to belts and the ring belt was born. North Sails, the world wide leader in sail production, has created a customised ring belt using the North Sails logo tape. It has become a much-loved basic for real men of the sea.

History Skaters

Although a version of the belt has been around Perhaps because of its canvas fabric, or its since the Bronze Age, it was only in the 1920s, simple fastening style, the D-ring belt has long when a lower waistline for trousers became been popular amongst skaters and snowboarders. fashionable, that belts started having a practical, Ironically, there was an era not too long ago rather than decorative function. Before this, where skaters wore their trousers in a “sagging belts were mostly associated with the military, style” despite using a belt to keep them up. as trousers did not yet have belt loops.

ICON nr: Sagging Sagging is the word used to refer to trousers, which sit significantly below the waist, sometimes revealing substantial parts of the wearer’s underwear. It is believed that this style of wearing trousers originated in the U.S. prison system, where belts were often prohibited, to prevent prisoners from using them as weapons, or to commit suicide with. “Simplicity is 024 the ultimate sophistication”

D-Ring Belt LEONARDO DA VINCI U.S. Navy

If you go into an army surplus store you might get lucky and come across a peacoat that still has its original label from the Clothing Supply Office of the U.S. Navy or the Navy Clothing Factory stitched in. The label will often include the name and number of the naval officer whom the coat formerly belonged to. Some time in the late 1960s or early 1970s, the Navy stopped issuing numbers, so you would have to find a jacket that dates back to the 40s or 50s.

Peacoat Form and function

A peacoat is short in length, double-breasted A classic feature of the peacoat is its distinctive- and usually made from heavy, navy-coloured wool. looking, over-sized collar. Navy regulations It also has broad lapels, vertical pockets describe it as a “convertible collar”, meaning it is and big, round buttons. Tailor and cutter there to serve sailors exposed to harsh weather at sea. When worn up, the collar provides protection In the 19th Century, Tailor and Cutter was the from wind and sea-spray without impairing leading trade magazine for tailors in England. In an vision. This design feature, which has a true issue from October 1868 they feature the “Prince of function, gives the coat a sophisticated aesthetic. Wales Jacket”, a loose, double-breasted jacket, with three pairs of buttons made from blue pilot cloth. Later the term used to refer to the Prince of Wales jacket was shortened to pea-coat.

Hello, sailor British Navy Comics The peacoat started its life as a jacket for sailors, who endured harsh conditions and cold The origin of the peacoat is truly ambiguous as yet Originally published in 1967, Corto Maltese: The climates. Today this masculine, iconic garment, another theory states that Mr Edgar Camplin, who Ballad of the Sea Salt, was a graphic novel which which has been worn by the likes of Robert supposedly sold uniforms to the British Navy in 1880s, took Europe by storm. The book’s main character, Redford and James Dean, has become a classic. suggested creating a coat for petty officers, who Corto Maltese, illustrated by Hugo Pratt, is at Its design features, such as the broad shoulders, until that point had worn the same uniforms once a sailor, adventurer and treasure-hunter. wide collar and thin waist all help to make the as sailors. Whereas officers wore a so- Being that Maltese is a man of the sea, he is wearer look taller, stronger and more handsome. called “great” coat, the petty officers, were often seen sporting a peacoat in the series, What’s more, an up-turned collar frames the given a shorter, coat referred to as the P-coat. and it becomes part of his signature look. face and draws the eyes in. “Hello, sailor.” ICON nr: History According to one theory, the term peacoat stems from the Dutch or West Frisian word “pijjekker”, “pij” referring to the type of coarse, twilled, blue cloth originally used. The U.S. Navy, however, maintains that the topcoat worn by seamen got its name because it was originally made from “pilot cloth” - a twilled blue cloth, which was heavy and coarse, sometimes also called “P-cloth”. Jackets made using this “Simplicity is fabric were called “P-jackets” and later “P-coats”. the ultimate sophistication” 027 According to the book The Origin of Navy Terminology, the term “peacoat” has been around Peacot since 1723 to describe coats made from such cloth. LEONARDO DA VINCI