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StarChefsHOLIDAYf

Christmas Dinner with Charlie Palmer

Cuisine Based 5 WINES On American Under $15 To Dress Up Ideals Your Holiday starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:28 PM Page 2

Who’s news

2 WHO’S NEWS Content 4 SPOTLIGHT: A BACKSTAGE PASS TO CELEBRITY CHEFS Molto Mario Baltali, Boston’s Ana Sortun, San Francisco’s Michael Mina 6 CHEFS TOOLBOX What you need to know to build your own home toolbox. Product reviews. 8 CELEBRATE! Chef Charlie Palmer of Aureole dresses up Christmas dinner. 10 WINE UNCORKED Christmas Goose and Cabernet? Choosing the right wine for your holiday celebration. 12 WINE TIPS Sommelier Eric Scheffer shares his tips on enjoy- ing wine 14 WHAT TO EAT AND WHERE TO STAY The lover’s guide to South Beach 16 ENTERTAINING U Stress-free wedding tips. 19 WITH KIDS: FOOD + FAMILY = FUN! Make Mexican Tortillas with Black and Fresca 20 QUICKMEALS Try this weeks menu from America’s King of the Grill, Bobby Flay 24 FOR CHOCOLATE LOVER’S ONLY Simple but elegant Honey Chocolate 25 SWEET SPOT Home Made Marshmallows from Jacques Torres 26 STARCHEFS 101 defined. 27 STAR COOKBOOKS Explore Latin American with Norman Van Aken’s New World . 28 ASK THE STARCHEFS Emeril Lagasse, Bobby Flay, Norman Van Aken, Marcus Samuelsson, Alice Waters 30 WHAT’S COOKING? Easter Brunch in The English Gardens 30 DID YOU KNOW? “Appas” not tapas in Washington, DC 31 30 WHAT GOES AROUND COMES AROUND Contaminated Food and the Environment

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StarChefs • HOLIDAY ISSUE 3 starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:30 PM Page 4 Backstage pass chef spotlight to celebrity chefs

Mario Batali New York City LINGUINE WITH MANILA 2 tablespoons confectioners sugar Chef Molto Mario - we can’t CLAMS, PANCETTA AND HOT 1/8 teaspoons grated fresh nut- meg get enough from this talent. ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS 3 cups water From Babbo to Esca to Lupa 1 1/2 cups sugar Yield: 4 servings as a main 1 tablespoon lemon juice the curtain draws open to a couple of drops of rose reveal a magician, a kitchen, water Ingredients: his stage, a man with skills 1 pound linguine Method: 1/2 medium red , finely rarely tasted in the New Preheat oven to 375ºF. Place minced kadafi in a food processor World or the Old. He wields 1/4 pound pancetta, cut into and chop up finely. Add but- 1/8th inch dice a whisk rather than a wand, prefers radic- ter and milk and line a 8-inch 4 cloves garlic, peeled and Ana SortunBoston,MA square heavy baking dish chio to rabbits, cuts of meat instead of cards thinly sliced Chef Ana Sortun has stormed with half of this mixture. 6 tablespoons extra virgin of deceit - yet still sports a quirky chapeau! the Boston cuisine scene like Mix the cheeses with the pis- olive oil it was some sort of Bastille, tachios, sugar & nutmeg and Who is this conjurer of culinary concoctions? 1 teaspoon crushed red chiles hogging virtually every award spread onto shredded phyllo. 1 pound Manila clams, Why Mario Batali - New York's own master for her restaurant, Oleana. Top with the remaining shred- scrubbed and rinsed Perhaps the best loved ded pastry. Bake for 45 min- chef, entrepreneur, author, and TV icon. 2 cups dry white wine French-scented celebrity in utes. 4 tablespoons unsalted butter Hooking audiences with opening productions Boston since the Marquis de Make a sugar syrup by boiling 1 bunch Italian parsley, finely Lafayette back in '76, Sortun water with sugar and lemon like 'Babbo', 'Lupa', 'Esca', Super Mario has chopped, to yield 1/4 cup has rocketed through the juice. Cook until reduced by a continued to awe and amaze with follow-up ranks of the establishment third and it becomes nice Method: leaving all kinds of delec- and thick. Stir in rose water acts like tasty new venues, best selling Bring six quarts of water to table treats in her wake. I to taste. When kunefe comes boil and add 2 tablespoons books, and top-rated TV shows. What can't guess it's up to us to clean out of the oven, ladle 2/3 of salt. up after her! the hot syrup over it and our culinary magician accomplish? In a large sauté pan, sauté save the rest to pass while red onion, pancetta Let him keep it coming! eating. Serve hot. and garlic over medi- um heat until onion is very soft and Michael Mina pancetta is translu- San Francisco, CA cent, about 10 min- What came utes. Add hot chiles, first, a suc- clams, white wine and culent butter and bring to a salmon filet boil. Cook until all flaked to per- clams have opened, fection or and then set aside. the chef who Boil linguine accord- prepared it? ing to package Salmon, instructions. While serve it as softened but still we will, form, drain in colander over always melts sink and toss into plan with KUNEFE in our clams and stir gently to mix. ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS mouths. Or This should still be a little does it? While growing up broth-like. Add chopped pars- Yield: 8 servings outside Seattle, Michael ley, pour into warm serving Mina's mom overcooked his bowl and serve. Ingredients: salmon - and quite frankly, he 1/2 package shredded phyllo, didn't care for it. But when also called kadafi finally tasting salmon as it 8 tablespoons melted butter was meant to be served: very and 1 1/2 tablespoons milk fresh and simply prepared, 1/4 pound fresh buffalo moz- exploding with its own flavor - zarella, grated - Chef Michael, of Aqua fame, 12 ounces ricotta realized he had found his 1/2 cup ground pistachios calling. Find out more about

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500° F preheated oven for 4 minutes. In a medium saucepan warm 2 ounces butter and balsamic vinegar together until butter starts to melt. Add potatoes. Toss until warm. Warm the asparagus in medium sauce- pan with 1 ounce of whole butter and salt and pepper. this 'boy wonder-chef' and why his customers' mouths Place 5 asparagus stalks in are watering. center of plate. Place salmon on top. Place 4 halves PAN ROASTED SALMON and 4 grapefruit segments around plate. Drizzle 2 ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS ounces of grapefruit vinai- grette over top. Yield: 4 servings

Ingredients: GRAPEFRUIT VINAIGRETTE 4 5-ounce salmon filets ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS 2 ounces olive oil 20 jumbo asparagus stalks Yield: 2 cups peeled 16 grapefruit segments (2 Ingredients: grapefruits) 1 cup grapefruit juice 8 red bliss potatoes 1/4 cup honey 2 ounces balsamic vinegar 3 shallots chopped fine 3 ounces butter 1 teaspoon ground corian- salt & pepper der 9 Tablespoon pure olive oil Method: 1 Tablespoon chopped Preheat oven to 500° F. Add Italian parsley asparagus to 1 gallon of boil- salt & pepper ing salted water . Blanch until tender approxi- Method: mately 4 minutes. Cool in Reduce grapefruit juice by cold water. Remove. 1/2 in non-reactive pan. Pour In a saucepan cover potatoes into a bowl. in cold water with 1 table- Heat honey until honey starts spoon of salt. Boil until ten- to brown. Add to grapefruit der. Remove and cut in half. juice. Sauté the shallots Season salmon filets on both slowly in 1 Tablespoon of sides with salt and pepper. olive oil until translucent. Heat 2 oz of olive oil in large Add to grapefruit mixture. sauté pan. Add salmon. Cook Add remaining ingredients. until golden brown on both Whisk until blended. Adjust sides. Remove fat. Place in seasonings.

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chefstoolboxTHE ESSENTIALS CHEF CHOICES peeler Melon baller MARIO BATALI Small strainer/sifter (Babbo - New York City) Paring knives (usually the Batali loves his good cheaper, disposable kinds) aluminum sauté pans. High quality 8" or 10" chef’s knife "They heat up fast and I Large serrated knife can beat the hell out of Meat thermometer them." His home kitchen Rubber spatulas (buy two or isn't complete without a three because they get solid wood cutting lost; we prefer the heat- board, his Sabatier proof kind) knives, a hand held Rubber bowl scrapers colander, and a food Wooden spoons processor. Ruler Hand immersion blender MARCUS SAMUELSSON Mandoline (Aquavit - New York City) Rubber cutting boards (they can Samuelsson always be sanded for fresh sur- keeps a mortar and pes- faces) tle handy for quick grind- Food processor ing. Microwave Two skillets - one 8 inches, one CHARLIE PALMER 12 inches, both non-stick. (Aureole - New York City) Two saucepans -- one small Palmer's favorite item is (one quart or so) one larg- his non-stick pancake er. griddle, which he uses at A pasta pot is nice too home when he cooks for Roasting pans and baking the kids! sheets. JODY DENTON BEYOND THE BASICS (Merenda,- Bend, Microplane Oregon) (for zesting/grating) Denton loves his Filet knife microplane for grating Steel rod (for correcting dull and zesting, but warns, edges on knives) "Watch your fingers!" Candy thermometer (note that StarChefs this is different that the BOBBY FLAY standard meat thermome- (Bolo and Mesa Grill - ter: candy thermometers New York City) Tool Recommendations Need a different tempera- His favorite tools change ture range and need to be frequently, but at the What do the pro’s use at work? At extremely accurate) moment Flay says he Pastry tips and pastry bags (a loves heatproof rubber home? Chefs Toolbox spills the box of disposable bags are spatulas. the most convenient) beans about the tools that chefs An offset and a straight cake THOMAS JOHN spatula (if you make (Mantra, Boston) simply can't live without. Plus, cre- cakes) "I love to have a small Metal bench scraper electric coffee grinder on ate your own toolbox with the help Electric scale hand at all times. It of StarChefs Tool Recommendations. Large meat slicer allows me to fresh-grind Standing mixer whole , which we A small marble counter or a then briefly toast in a piece of marble for pastry pan to further enhance and chocolate work their aroma," says John. Silpats

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holiday dinner BREAST OF DUCK WITH CITRUS SAUCE AND MIXED FRUIT CHUTNEY ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS with Charlie Palmer Yield: 6 servings Ingredients: 2 pounds duck bones If you're looking for something to dress up 1 cup white wine your standard holiday menu, look no further. ½ cup carrots, hopped ½ cup celery, chopped Legendary chef Charlie Palmer shares recipes ½ cup shallots, chopped for succulent sautéed duck and a delicious 1 Tablespoon parsley, minced 1 teaspoon ginger, minced stuffing sure to become a favorite. 2 bay leaves 3 Tablespoons Cointreau Charlie Palmer's Progressive American style MM: "American" food has 2 cups chicken broth is holiday perfection. His approach to long been looked down upon 2 cups orange juice American food is rather simple: He seeks as a generic identity-less cui- 6 large boneless duck breasts, out the highest quality ingredients and sine. In cooking "Progressive skin on enhances them to show food in its best American" cuisine, you have 1 teaspoon chives, minced light. Although creativity is a huge part of done a great deal to promote ½ teaspoon orange zest, grated cooking, the main focus is always on taste. the kinds of products and 2 Tablespoons butter For a seasoned, but cutting edge chef like producers that are helping to Palmer, continually thinking of fresh, inter- give American food a sense Method: esting directions is a priority. If his diners of identity. How far has Preheat oven to 375°F. Cut have seen something before, it's just not American food come since bones into 2-inch pieces. Place good enough, especially for the holidays. you started cooking? Do you them in roasting pan in oven think "Progressive American" and roast, stirring occasionally, EXCERPT FROM STARCHEFS.COM'S INTERVIEW WITH has come of age? 30 minutes. Remove bones CHARLIE PALMER from pan and place in large INTERVIEW BY MERRILL MAIANO,FEATURES EDITOR, CP: I think we've made great sauce pot. Deglaze roasting STARCHEFS.COM advances in many ways. pan while still hot, by adding ½ Probably most importantly, cup wine. Stir constantly, scrap- Merrill Maiano: Tell me a little bit about the we've made advancements in ing bottom to release flavorful things that helped to create the groundwork the quality of ingredients and bits and wine has almost evap- for your interest in local and artisanal the commitment of artisanal orated. Scrape pan remains ? What prompted you to stick with producers. I think into large sauce pot with roast- "American" food as opposed to French, or Progressive American cook- ed bones. any other kind of cuisine? ing has certainly become Charlie Palmer: Growing up in what I con- important and recognized at Add carrots, celery, shallots, sider a very American part of the country, this point. parsley, ginger and bay leaves and then being exposed to mostly French and sauté 4 minutes. Stir in food, it just made complete sense for me to remaining ½ cup of wine and become part of a movement to create what I Enjoy your holidays and don't Cointreau and bring to boil. Add hope someday will become an actual "cui- forget to try the Savory chicken broth and juice along sine" based on American ideals. Turkey Hash the next day! with salt and pepper to taste celebrate and again bring to boil. Lower

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heat and simmer about 40 min- DRIED FRUIT AND NUT SAVORY TURKEY HASH utes or until liquid has reduced STUFFING ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS to 1 ½ cups. Remove from heat ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS turkey and strain through fine sieve into Yield: 6 servings small saucepan, discarding Yield: enough stuffing for 1 (16- tips solids. 20 pound) turkey Ingredients: 3 Tablespoons olive oil JAN BIRNBAUM Score skin of duck breasts into a Ingredients: 1½ cups shredded cooked Catahoula - Calistoga, CA cross-hatch pattern. Season both 12 cups dried white and/or potatoes Cut the bird in parts to cook it. This sides with salt and pepper. Heat whole wheat bread cubes 1 cup chopped onion reduces cooking time dramatical- large heavy-bottomed sauté pan ½ cup (1 stick) unsalted butter ¼ cup chopped red bell pepper ly. Bone the breast completely, over medium heat. When very TIP 1 cup diced onion 1 head roasted garlic then remove the legs and hot, add duck breasts, skin side ¼ cup diced celery 1 teaspoon minced fresh thyme #1 thighs together. That leaves down. Cook, draining off excess 1 Tablespoon minced fresh 1 teaspoon minced fresh sage the backbone, which I roast fat from time to time, 14 minutes 4 cups chopped cooked with the rest because it is the or until most fat is rendered out parsley turkey meat perfect snack. and skin is nicely browned and 1 ½ cups diced dried apricots 1- 1½ cups leftover turkey gravy crisp. You may have to turn down ½ cup yellow raisins ~2 cups warm turkey stock, heat to keep skin from burning. Method: PAUL KAHAN Turn and cook 3 minutes or until chicken broth or water Preheat the oven to 375°F. Blackbird - Chicago, IL meat is cooked to medium 1 Tablespoon poultry seasoning Don't let carry-over cooking ruin your (155°F) and still moist in center. 1 teaspoon chopped fresh sage Heat the oil in a heavy oven-proof bird. Poultry needs to be cooked to 1 teaspoon chopped thyme frying pan (cast iron is great) 150ºF to be considered safe to eat. If Just before duck is ready, heat 1 teaspoon chopped marjoram over medium heat. Add the pota- you leave it in the oven and allow it to sauce over medium heat. Add - kosher salt toes, and bell pepper and cook to a temperature much chives and orange zest and bring - freshly ground black pepper sauté for about 5 minutes or higher than that, you risk a dry to simmer. Whisk in butter. Taste TIP 1- 1½ cups toasted walnut until the potatoes are beginning over-cooked turkey. Take the and adjust seasoning with salt or pecan pieces to take on some color and the bird out when it reaches 145ºF #2 and pepper. Lower heat enough onions and bell pepper are very Method: (but not lower) and let it con- to just keep sauce warm. soft. Stir in the roasted garlic, Preheat the oven to 375°F. tinue to "cook" while it rests out- thyme and sage and sauté for side of the oven. To Serve: another minute. Add the turkey If not stuffing a bird, lightly Using a very sharp knife, cut and enough turkey gravy to mois- grease a large shallow baking duck breasts, on the bias, into ten nicely and stir until well-com- dish or a large casserole. Set SAM HAYWARD thin slices. Fan each breast, if bined. desired, over cous cous or aside. Place the bread cubes in a Fore Street - Portland, ME mashed sweet potatoes, with large mixing bowl. Effective brining improves the texture of Using a spatula, pack the hash turkey, especially in the breast meat. sauce spooned over top. down into the pan. Place in the Heat the butter in a large sauté Brining has become a popular method of preheated oven and bake for 20 pan over medium heat. Add the preparing turkeys, but many brine recipes minutes or until the bottom is onions, celery and parsley. Lower are too light to produce the result they brown and the top is nicely crust- the heat and sauté for 10 min- promise. Combine 12 oz. kosher salt and ed. Remove from the oven and utes or until the are 27 oz. sugar in a clean stockpot. Add allow to rest for 5 minutes. Cut very soft but not browned. Add enough cold water to make 5 gal- into wedges and serve. the apricots and raisins and lons of brine, and stir to dis- sauté for an additional 3 min- TIP solve the sugar and salt. utes. Add 1 cup of the stock, #3 Remove giblets from turkey poultry seasoning, sage, thyme breast. Immerse turkey breast and marjoram and cook for 3 and legs in brine, weight with a minutes. ceramic plate to keep fully submerged, and cure turkey in refrigerator about 8 Pour the mixture over the bread hours. cubes, tossing to combine well. Add salt and pepper to taste and enough warm stock to make a BRADLEY OGDEN moist but not wet mixture. Toss The Lark Creek Inn - Larkspur, CA in the nuts. For a flavorful turkey, place the stuffing inside the bird and place whole fresh Either use the mixture to stuff a sage leaves and melted butter under- bird (see note below) or place neath the skin. Preheat oven to 525ºF into the prepared baking dish or and roast turkey 25 minutes. This will casserole and place in the pre- give the skin a beautiful golden heated oven. Bake for about 35 color and a crisp texture. Then, TIP Breast of Duck with Citrus minutes or until the top is crusty turn the heat down to 250ºF and #4 Sauce and Mixed Fruit and the stuffing is hot in the continue to cook approximately center. Savory Turkey Hash ½ hour per pound.

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StaruncorkedChefs

Christmas Goose and Cabernet?: Choose the perfect wines to complement your holiday feast By Kylene Keith Good food and good wine go hand in hand during the holi- days. It's criminal to slave over a hot stove without the reward of a delicious wine to savor with the fruits of your culinary labor. The holidays can be stressful, though, and the last thing the cook wants to think about is the wine when there are roasts and soufflés to worry about.

We've done all of the planning for you and compiled a list of our top wine choices to serve with dishes perfect for spring sup- pers. Even better, all of the wines on our list cost $15 or less. The upcoming holi- days provide a good excuse to experiment with new and interesting wines, and we think that this list is a good place to start.

1. E. Guigal Cotes du Rhone the luscious fruit, the smoky 2000 Rhone, France $9.95 meatiness, and the exotic This is a fabulous wine to to rival many wines have on hand for those occa- costing twice as much. sions when you want a red Shiraz is a good choice for wine with ripe fruit flavors full-flavored meats such as and an earthy quality. It is and dark game. This well-balanced with enough dish by Jody Adams is over- body and structure to handle flowing with robust flavors this leg of lamb. Made from and needs a big and bold one of the top producers in wine with equally powerful the Rhone Valley, this wine is flavors. Syrah is a grape that a crowd-pleaser and a must- is often described as pep- have for any holiday meal. pery both on the nose and RECIPEPEE PAIRING: M the palate. The black pepper L’S T ARK L HE B sauce will accentuate these AMB EST L EG OF characteristics and unite the entire meal. RECIPEPRO PAIRING: J 2. Paringa Shiraz 2001 VENÇ ODY A W AL-BR DAMS Australia $10.95 ITH O AISE ’ RANG D BEE It doesn't get much bigger or OLI E AN F VES D BLA bolder than this Australian CK Shiraz for under $15. It has 10 HOLIDAY ISSUE • StarChefs starchefs_holiday_magazine.qxd 10/31/2003 5:41 PM Page 11

3. Mionetto Prosecco di Valdobbiandene NV Veneto, Italy $14.59 A list of holiday wines would- n't be complete without a sparkling wine. This crisp and lively Prosecco has an enticing floral aroma with dis- tinct hints of citrus and apri- cot. It's fruity and refreshing and serves as a delightful aperitif. Sparkling wine is also an especially good match for any type of fried food. The effervescent nature wakes up your palate and acts as a great foil for deep- fried delights. L RECIPEAGAS PAIRING: EME SE'S RIL WITH FRIED TOM OYST ATO C ERS ORN S AUCE Livio Felluga Pinot Grigio 2001 Venezia, Italy $17.99 This is a Pinot Grigio like no other. It's full-bodied, rich and complex. Let it sit in the glass for a few minutes and aromas of peaches and oranges will slowly emerge. The peach and orange aro- mas are confirmed on the palate with a touch of nutti- ness and a gorgeous caramel finish. This is a stunning wine for richer dish- es or poultry. O RECIPEGDEN PAIRING: BRA 'S BU DLEY ROA TTER ST TU BAS RKEY TED

BV Rutherford Cabernet Sauvignon 1999 Napa Valley, California $18.99 This California Cabernet is powerful and concentrated with flavors of black cherries, blackberries and a touch of mint. This full-bodied wine has ripe tannins and a long, elegant finish. The oak lends some vanilla spice without being too overpowering. It's a fantastic choice to pair with dark game, beef, lamb and cheeses. RECIPEALLE PAIRING: DA N'S M RINA GO ICHA OSE W ELMA P ITH S OTAT TRAD O & A ITION PPLE AL STUF FING

FOR THESE AND OTHER RECIPES GO TO WWW.STARCHEFS.COM

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4. USE WINE TO SET THE MOOD. WHAT IS THE OCCA- SION? Romance = Champagne; Comfort, Wine of Warmth, Power = Cabernet Sauvignon; Hot Summer Wine Days, Casual = Chardonnay the month or Sauvignon Blanc.

5. BE WEATHER CON- tips SCIOUS. REDS IN WINTER, WHITES IN SUMMER. But you don't always have to stick to the rules. A nice summer night complete with poultry and Pinot Noir, for example.

6. WHEN STORING WINES THE RULES WORK. 58-60 DEGREE CELLARS. Always Ernest and on their sides. Always serve Julio Gallo wines at proper tempera- tures. If you have to, it's ok Twin Valley to put your reds in the refrig- erator 15 minutes ahead of White time to give them a nice place to start. Zinfandel

7. I PERSONALLY COLLECT WINES THAT HAVE A SHELF Description This Californian wine is light, LIFE OF 5-15 YEARS. Stick with Eric Scheffer 1. CONSULT YOUR pink and has pleasant floral to names that have stood the aromas, fresh strawberry and FAVORITE WINE SHOP OR test of time: Araujo, Harlan, juicy peach flavors, and a LOCAL RESTAURANT. Stay Turley, Gaja, Conterno, delicate finish. with the independents. They Trinoro, Penfolds Grange, are the ones who will take Grand Cru Bordeaux, and Food & Wine Suggestion the time to get to know you Catena Zapata. Have fun with White Zinfandels are versa- and your likes and dislikes. other wines that you will pull tile enough to be enjoyed Be honest and let them know out within 1-5 years. with just about any dish. Try your wine knowledge. We love it with a range of fare from to help create more wine 8. REMEMBER, HAVE FUN. turkey to chicken salad or drinkers. YOU CAN'T MAKE A MIS- enjoy it with simple appetiz- TAKE AND YOU DON'T HAVE ers such as bruschetta or 2. HAVE A PRICE POINT IN TO SPEND A LOT OF oysters on the half shell. MIND. YOU CAN FIND MONEY. Ask, ask, ask - true QUESTION: GOOD, DRINKABLE wines in wine lovers love to educate Is White Zinfandel made any price range. Expensive and are very helpful. Become from red or white grapes? does not always mean better. friends with your local wine shop owner. Submit your answer at 3. GO OFF THE BEATEN www.starchefs.com/wineofthemonth PATH. Look for gems from The first correct entry drawn , Italy, Eric Scheffer is the owner will win a bottle of the Ernest Australia, and . Wines and sommelier of Savoy and Julio Gallo Twin Valley from these regions are gener- Cucina Italiana in White Zinfandel. Usual con- ally great buys. Asheville, North Carolina test rules apply.

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what to eat and where to stay: The Sagamore Hotel

A FOOD L OVER' S G UIDE TO

What to do: Soak up the sun If your idea of an ideal vaca- THE SAGAMORE HOTEL is a SouthBeachon the rooftop patio, take a tion involves rolling out of chic, trendy boutique hotel dip in the emerald-shaped bed and onto the beach, with an eye for modern art pool, or get a massage in head to THE WINTERHAVEN and a crisp minimalist aes- one of the poolside cabanas. HOTEL, located directly thetic. The Sagamore has its Details: 801 Collins Avenue, across the street from the own modern art and photog- Beach, Florida 33139. ocean. Most of the guest raphy gallery, as well as Tel: 305.531.2222, 877.THE- rooms offer ocean views, so paintings and sculptures in HOTEL / 877.843.4683; Fax: even if you're seeking respite just about every room on the 305.531.3222; www.the- from the searing Miami sun, property. From the pool there hotelofsouthbeach.com. you can still enjoy that view. is a dazzling view of both Credit Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, The WinterHaven's Art Deco- surf and sky - The Sagamore Diner's Club. Parking: 24- inspired interior and stream- Hotel is located directly on hour Valet service: $18; Self- lined design are reminiscent the water, though it is a bit The parking (1 block from hotel): of Miami's high style, high- of a walk from the main drag. Hotel $10.70. luxury era of the 1930s. Rates: 1/1/03 - 5/31/03: Miami is the country's hottest Rates: 1/1/03 - 1/31/03: $300; 6/1/03 - 10/31/03: THE ASTOR is a chic bou- $139; 2/1/03 - 4/15/03: $225; 11/1/03 - 12/31/03: new culinary oasis. Go to the tique hotel that prides itself $149; 4/16/03 - 6/1/03: $300 on its relaxing ambiance - the $109; 6/2/03 - 10/31/03: Rooms: 93 units heart of the action with this stel- double-insulated walls, down $99; 11/1/03 - 12/29/03: What to do: Unwind in your lar lineup of hotels and restau- pillows, muted color scheme, $139 whirlpool bath-shower - locat- and mood lighting with dim- Rooms: 65 units ed in every room - or check rants in South Beach. mer switches ensure a What to do: Head out the out the famous "Ocean Front serene and luxurious escape door and hit the beach, or Zero-Entry Infinity Edge HOTELS from the stresses of everyday relax in the comfort of your Pool." life. The Astor is also easy room and enjoy the view. Details: 1671 Collins Avenue, on the pocketbook, with Details: 1400 Ocean Drive, Miami, Florida 33139. Tel: THE HOTEL (formerly The some of the lowest rates in Miami Beach, Florida 33139. 305.535.8088; Fax: Tiffany Hotel) is the place for the South Beach area. Tel: 305.531.5571, 305.535.8185; www.sag- the fashion-conscious to see 800.395.2322; Fax: amorehotel.com. Credit and be seen. The Hotel is Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/19/03: 305.538.6387; www.winter- Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's the pet project of fashion $165; 4/20/03 - 5/31/03: havenhotelsobe.com. Credit Club. Parking: 24-hour Valet designer Todd Oldham, for- $155; 6/1/03 - 10/15/03: Cards: AM, DC, MC, V, Diner's service: $20. mer fashion industry execu- $145; 10/16/03 - Club. Parking: 24-hour Valet tive Jessica Goldman 12/27/03: $155; Additional service: $18. Srebnick, and father Tony person: $30 Goldman, an urban developer Rooms: 40 units and preservationist. The What to do: Sink into the lux- Hotel is a hip hangout with a urious down pillows and great location - one block dream away. from Ocean Drive's strip of Details: 956 Washington restaurants and bars, and Avenue, Miami Beach, Florida one block from the ocean. 33139. Tel: 305.531.8081; Fax: 305.531.3193; Rates: 1/1/03 - 4/30/03: www.hotelastor.com. Credit $275; 5/1/03 - 12/20/03: Cards: AM, MC, V, Diner's $255 Club. Parking: 24-hour Valet Rooms: 53 units service: $20.

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RESTAURANTS restaurant is an experience - (Sicilian Olive- Sec this is not a repeat of the and Polenta), the menu is Chilean Sea Bass prepared exciting and diverse. METRO KITCHEN, located in for the umpteenth time. Recommended dishes: "Short The Astor hotel, is an experi- The food: Each dish is deli- Rib Burger" with Truffle Fries; ence unto itself, showcasing cately prepared with creativi- Duck Confit; Foie Gras Chef Rob Boone's latest cre- ty and precision, from the Torchon. 305.913.8258 ations through an exquisite cocktail to the dessert. menu with elegant presenta- Recommended dishes: tion. with Cheese BISCAYA GRILL has elegant The food: Chef Rob Boone Foam and Tomato Sauce; cuisine and impeccable serv- prepares fresh and tasty Mojama with Bread and ice (there are even little Asian-inspired fare. Tomato; Gratin Mushrooms; stool for purses). Recommended dishes: Duck Rockfish with Sautéed Spring The food: Chef Willis breast and Leg with Grilled Onions and Pink Pepper; Loughhead, the mastermind Apples and Fresh Spinach; Cheeks and Sautéed behind the food, served his Local Snapper with Wood Vegetables; Coffee with Milk version of classic, French- Barreled Soy, Belly with and Almond Muffins with inspired fare with grace and Fresh Horseradish; Steamed Butter. 305.415.0070 creativity. Snapper with Udon Noodles Recommended dishes: and XO. 305.672.6717 Seared Foie Gras on NEMO Chef Michael Sabin Caramelized Pear, with a and Pastry Chef Hedy taste of "Doktorenhof" vine- RUMI feels like an upscale Goldsmith are a dream team, gar; Smoked Duck with disco, with a trendy clientele packing a one-two punch that Rabbit Confit; Grand Marnier and huge lights suspended satisfies both sweet and Soufflé. 305.644.4675 from the ceiling. If you're savory cravings to the fullest. interested in the South The food: The menu's savory Beach scene, this is the selections, each as appetiz- WISH, The Hotel's restau- place to check out. ing as the next, are balanced rant, and one of Miami's The food: Rumi is the place by equally appealing dessert hottest new culinary addi- to go if you're ready to party offerings. tions. Chef Michael Reidt - and have tasty snacks along Recommended dishes: Garlic combines French-Brazilian the way. Cured Salmon Rolls; Crispy food with Persian-inspired Recommended dishes: Prawn Salad; Spicy décor and a lush, garden set- Salmon Tartar with Key Vietnamese Beef Salad; ting. Limes, Black Olives and Whole Pompano with The food: Reidt's menu has a Crispy Potato Sticks; Key Lemongrass; White Chocolate lot of unusual selections, like Lime Tart with Nut Cream and Bing Cherry , seared watermelon, Crust; Stone Crab Salad with Napoleon; Meyer Lemon Trio. hollandaise, and his Roast Tomato, Tomato Jelly, 305.532.4550 Blueberry-Lemon Thyme Baby Mustard Greens and Glaze. Mustardy Crème Fraîche; Recommended dishes: Bisque. AZUL Chef Michelle Braised Beef Short Rib 305.627.4353 Bernstein adventurous menu ";" Rioja Braised shows a broad array of world Veal Cheeks; Peekytoe Crab culinary influences. Salad; Winter Squash Soup; LA BROCHE and Chef Angel The food: From Malaysia Truffled Taro Root with Wish Palacios are relative newcom- (Curry Stewed Vegetables) to braised "rabada" (oxtail). ers to the South Beach din- Korea (kim chee) to Italy 305.531.2222 ing scene. Dining at this

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WeddingBy Siobhan Flaherty and Jane Miller Rennert

1.DOU 4. STA Before BLE Y ON TH . CallC allHE of your major you even begin BU planningD you ING CK EV GET. vendors (caterer, photogra-ERY- need to figure out how much pher, band, etc.) at regular money you can comfortably intervals just to check in - spend and a rough estima- monthly or bi-monthly if tion of how many people will you're planning a year or attend. This will help you to more ahead, but in the final intelligently determine every weeks try to touch base choice you make about your weekly. Even if you don't wedding. Once you've figured have anything new to tell out your budget stick to it. them going over the details Though $10,000 worth of again and again will ensure flowers decorating the aisle that any miscommunications may sound beautiful, it's not will be caught ahead of time worth being indebted to your and you will know every credit card company for the detail by heart as you next 10 years. Remember, approach the big day. you and your spouse may want to buy a house or have children in the future. 2. KNO W WH IN. We're not EsureN T Owhy, but GIVE 5. YOU weddings tend to bring out CAN' THE W T COInN other We may be a bit jaded, but we still the worst in people, espe- EATH TROL cially the parents of the words, not everyER. detail of the get misty when we witness two people bride and groom. Choose event will turn out the way pledging their commitment in front your battles wisely. Don't you envisioned it. It may compromise on the things pour; your brother may get of those that they care about. Weddings that are MOST important to too drunk to give a toast (or are not just a rite of passage; a wedding you, but bend a little on less worse he gives the toast any- important issues to make way); the cake may be yel- is the ultimate way to demonstrate love your future in-laws happy. low, not "cream"; you may and (in our minds) an excuse to throw Remember, your wedding is trip during your first dance. one day, but you have to live There isn't much you can do the biggest, most extravagant and most with these people for the to prevent these sorts of rest of your (or their) lives. problems from arising, but expensive party you will ever have. your reaction to these prob- lems will make a big differ- Planning your wedding can be the most wonderful and the 3. SHA Not to RE T ence. If you have a great most stressful experience imaginable. There's something perpetuate maleHE J stereotypes, OY. sense of humor and focus on about weddings that unearths the most deep seeded insecu- but we find grooms frequent- enjoying the day so will your rities in otherwise happy and content people. Everyone has ly do not want to partake in guests. heard horror stories about brides who go off the deep end the wedding planning and become raving &!@!$#*&!@!!! on their wedding day. (In process! Do not expect any- our wedding planning experience we've never seen such a one, even your future creature, but if, in fact, they do exist we are sure they are spouse, to be willing to dis- driven to it by some overly demanding future in-law.) cuss chicken versus salmon or lilies of the valley versus There's already so much written about the nuts and bolts of roses for eight hours a day. how to plan a wedding (how to create a budget, when to hire However, dividing up the the band, how to do the seating chart, etc.), so the following tasks, sharing half the tips are more for your general peace of mind and to help you responsibility each, will ease to feel confident and in control on your wedding day. the burden.

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Cooking with

FOOD + FAMILY = FUN! MEXICAN TORTILLAS WITH BLACK BEANS AND SALSA FRESCA K¦dFrom Cooking Time is Family Time by Lynn Fredericks, William Morrow, August 1999 ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Yield: 8 tortillas

This is a recipe I learned from a Ingredients: into 8 equal little removing the sharp lids. Let Mexican mom who came to P.S. 61 For the Tortillas: balls. This offers a great kids pour the beans (do not 1-1/2 cup and two Tablespoons math lesson in fractions. drain) directly from the can to demonstrate the preparation of water Start out with the dough in into the pot with oil. Add homemade corn tortillas. It seemed 1 cup harina one large ball. Next help kids seasonings. If you don't have For the Beans: to cut it in half, then cut the epazote (an herb which is miraculous to the children and me 1/4 cup olive oil halves in one half and so available dried in Latino gro- that the fine yellow masa four 2 cans black beans, drained forth until you have 8 equal ceries) use dried . 2 teaspoon dry epazote or pieces. Now let the kids roll Cook until soft, gently mash- mixed with just a bit of water oregano each piece into a ball. Press ing the beans with a wooden would, within a few seconds, be Kosher salt to taste each ball into the tortilla spoon. For the Salsa Fresca: maker between sheets of transformed into yummy tortillas to 2 tomatoes, diced plastic (or place ball on cov- To make the salsa fresca: fill with whatever we chose. The 1/3 bunch scallions ered board and press down 1. Have older children help 1 small bunch cilantro, with bottom of covered pot). dice tomatoes and chop the only tricky part about making tor- minced Cover the remaining dough to scallions with supervision. tillas is to be sure to get the con- Kosher salt to taste keep moist. Continue this Meanwhile, have little ones process until all 8 tortillas pluck the cilantro leaves sistency of the dough just right. It Garnish: are made, lining them up from their stems and tear will just take practice, trial and Shredded lettuce and grated individually on a cutting the leaves into tiny pieces, Monterey Jack cheese (optional) board or counter. discarding stems. error. Mas harina flour is inexpen- 2. Heat a large skillet - cast 2. Next have kids combine sive just as wheat flour. It is avail- Equipment: iron if possible. Gently tomatoes, scallions and Tortilla press or plastic wrap cov- remove one tortilla at a time cilantro in a mixing bowl and able in Latin markets or, since blue ering a cutting board and a bot- and cook in the ungreased combine thoroughly. Season corn masa is increasingly available tom of a large and heavy pot skillet for about 20 seconds to taste with kosher salt. wrapped in plastic wrap on each side - do this three in health and specialty stores, you times. Cover finished tor- To serve: can buy blue corn masa - they To make the tortillas: tillas to keep them warm. Have each family member 1. Have children place masa spoon some beans inside make wonderful tortillas. Masa and the one and one-half To make the filling: their tortilla, top with shred- flour is not the same as cornmeal; water in a mixing bowl. Mix In a medium-sized saucepan, ded lettuce, salsa fresca and well, adding 1 tablespoon place the oil and heat over even some grated cheese, if cornmeal is not ground finely more water as needed until medium-high heat. Let the they so desire. enough for tortillas. mixture forms a dough. Now children help you open the have the children divide the cans of beans, with parents

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QuickMEALS

W M EAR-SHAPED PASTA WITH MORELS, T PAN-FRIED RAINBOW TROUT WITH This week, StarChefs brings GREEN PEAS, AND SWEET ONIONS PECANS AND BROWN BUTTER E O Bobby Flay Cooks American U Bobby Flay Cooks American Bobby Flay to your kitchen. by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 D N E ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS N D S Yield: 4 servings Yield: 4 servings E A D Ingredients: Ingredients: S Y 3 tablespoons olive oil A 2 cups all purpose flour 1 pound fresh mushrooms (you can use 3 large eggs D white buttons, criminis, morels or a mix Y 3 tablespoons milk of mushrooms) 2 cups cornmeal, preferably white A 2 sweet onions, such as Vidalia, peeled, 4 trout fillets RECIPES: halved, and thinly sliced 6 tablespoons vegetable oil Y 1 cup dry white wine 2 sticks (8 ounces) unsalted butter 2 cups canned vegetable stock Grated zest and freshly squeezed MONDAY EAR- SHAP 1 cup fresh or thawed frozen peas juice of 2 lemons GREE ED PA N PEA STA W 1 pound ear shaped pasta, cooked until 1/2 cup finely chopped pecans S, AN ITH TUESDAY D SW MORE just slightly underdone and drained 1/4 cup finely chopped flat-leaf parsley PAN- EET LS, FRIED ONION 1 cup pasta water reserved Salt and freshly ground pepper PECA RAIN S NS AN BOW 2 tablespoons each finely chopped fresh D BR TROU mint and flat-leaf parsley Method: WEDNESDAY OWN T WI SEA BUT TH Place the flour in a bowl and season RED TER 1/4 cup freshly grated Parmesan cheese, BL CHIC with salt and pepper. Whisk the eggs ACK KEN B plus extra for serving G PEPP REA and milk together in a large bowl and LAZE ER-SW ST W EET ITH season with salt and pepper. Place the MUS Method: THURSDAY TARD cornmeal in a bowl and season with PAN-R Heat the olive oil in a large skillet over R OAST high heat. Add the mushrooms, season salt and pepper. UM- ED FI RED C LET M with salt and pepper, and cook, stir- HILE IGNO FRIDAY SAUC N W ring, until lightly browned. Transfer to a Preheat the oven to 375 degrees BLAC E ITH K BEA plate. Add the onions to the pan and Fahrenheit. Season the fillets with salt N RIS OTTO cook, stirring, until soft. Add the wine and pepper to taste. One at a time, dip This flaming red-haired boy from Manhattan and cook until all the liquid evapo- each piece into the flour, then in the knew at a tender age that he had a knack for rates. Add the vegetable stock and egg mixture, then in the cornmeal. Set making food taste vibrant and wasted no time cook until reduced by half. Add the aside on a rack. Finish breading trout. delving into a culinary career. A graduate of peas and cook for 2 minutes. Whisk in the French Culinary Institute, Bobby Flay is the butter and season with salt and Heat 3 tablespoons of the oil in a the owner of Mesa Grill and Bolo Restaurant pepper. large skillet until smoking. Working in in New York City. He appears regularly on batches to avoid crowding the pan, cook the trout until just golden brown CBS's The Early Show and Hot Off the Grill Add the pasta to the pan along with the mushrooms, herbs, and cheese, on both sides (it will finish cooking with Bobby Flay and FoodNation on the Food and stir until combined, adding some later in the recipe). When half of the Network. With Bobby as your guide, get cook- of the reserved pasta liquid if needed. pieces have been cooked, add the ing! Cover and cook over low heat for 2 remaining oil and heat it almost to minutes. Serve with more grated smoking before continuing. As the cheese. pieces are browned, transfer them to a large baking sheet. When all the

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pieces are browned, place the baking T PAN-ROASTED FILET MIGNON WITH sheet in the oven and bake 5-6 min- RUM-RED SAUCE utes, until just cooked through. H From my Kitchen to your Table by Bobby Flay, Clarkson Potter 1998 While the trout is baking, make the U ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS brown butter: Melt the butter in a non- stick skillet over medium high heat. R Yield: 4 servings Watching carefully and lowering the heat if necessary, let the butter foam S Ingredients: up and turn golden brown. When the 1 tablespoon butter white milk solids brown and the butter D 2 shallots, minced smells nutty, immediately stir in the 1/2 tablespoon minced garlic lemon juice, zest, and salt and pepper A 1/2 cup Meyers's dark rum to taste. Stir in the pecans and pars- Y 2 cups chicken stock ley. 1 tablespoon ancho puree 1 tablespoon molasses To serve, place the trout on serving 4 filet mignon steaks, about 8 ounces plates and pour the hot browned butter each over. Serve immediately. 1 tablespoon butter Salt and pepper W SEARED CHICKEN BREAST WITH BLACK PEPPER-SWEET MUSTARD Method: E GLAZE Melt the butter in a saucepan over Bobby Flay Cooks American medium-high heat and sweat the shal- D by Bobby Flay, Hyperion 2001 lots and garlic. Add the rum, bring to a N ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS boil, and reduce to 1/3 cup. E Yield: 4 servings Add the stock, bring to a boil, and reduce the heat. Whisk in the remain- S Ingredients: ing ingredients until reduced to 2 1/4 cup Dijon mustard cups. May be refrigerated up to 2 days; D 2 tablespoons whole grain mustard reheat with a little water and re-sea- 2 tablespoons honey son. A 2 tablespoons coarsely cracked black Preheat the oven to 450 degrees and pepper season the steaks to taste with salt Y 2 teaspoons finely chopped fresh thyme and pepper. In an ovenproof skillet or 2 pound bone-in and skin-on chicken sauté pan over medium heat, melt the breasts butter and seat the steaks on one side Salt about 3 minutes. Place in the oven and cook until desired doneness. Method: Make the glaze: Combine the mus- Place the steaks on a serving platter tards, honey, black pepper, and thyme and drizzle with the rum-red chile in a medium bowl and season with sauce. Serve any extra sauce on the salt. side.

Make the chicken: Preheat the oven to 400 degrees. Heat a medium ovenproof skillet over high heat until almost smoking. Season the breast on both sides with salt and pepper. Place the breast skin-side down in the pan and cook until the skin is golden brown. Drain off the fat. Turn the breast over, place the pan in the oven, and contin- ue cooking until no pink remains, about 12-15 minutes.

As soon as the chicken comes out of the oven, brush it liberally with the mustard glaze. Let rest for about 10 minutes then slice the meat and serve immediately.

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QuickMEALS

F BLACK RISOTTO From My Kitchen To Your Table THIS WEEK’S R by Bobby Flay, Clarkson Potter 1998 ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS SHOPPING LIST: I D A Y PRODUCE 2 lemons 1 lb.Mushrooms (mix as you please) 1 Spanish onion 2 sweet onions (Vidalia) 2 shallots 1 head garlic 1 tube ancho puree 1 tube or can (specialty grocer) 1 bunch parsley Yield: 4 servings 1 bunch mint 1 bunch thyme Ingredients: 2 1/2 cups canned chicken stock 1/2 cup white wine 2 tablespoons butter 1/2 large Spanish onion, diced DRY 1/2 head of raw garlic, minced 8 oz. pecans 1 cup Arborio 1 jar Dijon mustard 1 1/2 cups drained canned black beans 1 jar whole grain mustard 1 tablespoon honey 1 jar Honey Molasses 2 tablespoons chopped green onions 32 ounces chicken stock 2 tablespoons chopped cilantro leaves 16 ounces vegetable stock 2 tablespoons Parmesan cheese 1 can black beans Salt and pepper 1 one pkg peas (fresh, frozen or can) Method: 1 pkg Arborio rice Combine the stock and wine in a 2 cup corn meal saucepan over medium-high heat and 1 box ear shaped pasta bring to a boil. Reduce the heat to medium and keep the broth simmering.

Melt the butter in a large pot over medium-high heat and sweat the onion DAIRY and garlic. Add the rice and toss to 1 lb. Butter coat with the butter. Cook the rice until 10 oz parmesan cheese lightly toasted. Milk Add 1 cup of stock and cook, stirring, until it is absorbed. Repeat with a sec- ond cup. As the rice becomes dry, add stock in ½ cup increments, cooking MEAT and stirring until it is absorbed. 2 lbs. Chicken breast 4 trout filets When the rice is about three-quarters 4 steaks (filet or ribeye) cooked, mix in the beans, honey, green 1 bottle white wine onions, and cilantro. Continue cooking, (s. blanc or chardonnay adding broth as needed, until al dente and creamy, with a little liquid in the bottom of the pot.

Season to taste with salt and pepper and stir in the Parmesan cheese. Pour onto a large platter and serve immedi-  ately.

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FOR WENDY'S HONEY- gently until smooth. Add CHOCOLATE SAUCE remaining cream in three ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS additions, stirring gently after each until mixture is Yield: About 1 cup smooth. Stir in honey. Cool briefly, then chill, covering Chocolate tightly when cold. Ingredients: Lovers 4 ounces best-quality bitter- To serve: Scrape only as sweet chocolate, very finely much sauce as you'll use ONLY chopped into a small heatproof bowl 1 Tablespoon unsalted butter, (repeated re-chilling and reheating of sauce can First, a note about my wonder- cut into small bits make it grainy). Place over ful friend Wendy. She is a truly Pinch of salt simmering water on low amazing woman who lives in a 1/2 cup heavy cream heat (water should not world that revolves around rare 2 Tablespoons mild,light touch bottom of bowl); stir books/manuscripts, medieval honey only until melted and warm. music, cats, her charming Remove from heat and hot fiancé, and good food-especial- Method: water. (Alternatively, scrape ly good chocolate. She kept In small heatproof bowl, com- amount of sauce needed telling me that she had a bine chocolate, butter bits, into microwaveable bowl. recipe for a garlic-honey-choco- and salt. Set aside. Microwave at 50% (medium) late sauce, a statement I flatly In small, heavy-bottomed power for very short inter- refused to believe. But the saucepan over low heat, heat vals, stirring thoroughly recipe does exist, because it cream until very hot, stirring after each, just until melted arrived via e-mail one fine often. Remove from heat; and warm). morning. I spent 12 days care- immediately pour about half Serve as desired. Sauce will fully steeping raw garlic cloves of hot cream over chocolate. harden somewhat over ice in honey as part of the prepa- Allow to stand for a minute cream or sorbet. ration for making the sauce. or two, then stir or whisk Despite the promise contained in the recipe that the finished product would not shout "gar- lic!", it did…and I want to tell you there is nothing weirder on the taste buds than a choco- late sauce that is powerfully redolent of that herb! That experiment produced a valuable by-product, because I set out to prove that a choco- late-honey sauce without garlic could be much pleasanter, and I think I've succeeded. For a simple and delicious spring- time dessert, serve this, gen- tly warmed, over vanilla ice cream with strawberries. You must use the best-quality bit- tersweet chocolate you can find (remember, if it isn't smooth in bar form, it won't be smooth in the finished prod- uct, either). Despite the use of Hi! My name is Stephanie Zonis, and wel- honey, the sauce is not partic- come to this week's edition of "For ularly sweet, although you can adjust the amount of honey to Chocolate Lovers Only". Every week, you'll taste. You'll want to use a find recipes, tips, and recommendations on light honey for this-orange blossom, clover, or a light wild- great chocolate specialties. Let's get into flower would all be fine choic- the kitchen with this week's recipe for es. Once made, the sauce will keep for at least a week in the Wendy's Honey-Chocolate Sauce! fridge, but freezing it adversely affects the texture.

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Celebrated pastry chef and chocolatier sweet spot Jacques Torres shares his recipe for a springtime holiday favorite, and a few tips for making spectacular desserts at home. M ARSHMALLOWS MARSHMALLOWS it around until it is melted, ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS then add it to the whipping whites. Continue to whip Yield: About 54 pieces until stiff, glossy and fluffy, about 7 minutes. The gelatin Ingredients: will make the marshmallows 3 envelopes powdered gelatin lighter, hold their shape, and 1/3 cup water give them their trademark 1 1/4 cups granulated sugar elasticity. 1/4 cup light corn syrup 6 large egg whites If you would like color or fla- 1 to 2 drops liquid food coloring, vor, add one or two drops of if desired food coloring or flavored oil 1 to 2 drops flavored oil, if now. desired 3/4 cup powdered sugar Spray the bottom and the 3/4 cup cornstarch sides of a parchment paper covered baking sheet with Sprinkle the gelatin over ¾ cooking spray to keep the cup cold water. Let the gela- marshmallows from sticking. tin bloom until it has Use a large offset spatula to absorbed all the water, about spread the meringue as level 1 minute. as possible, but do not press down on it as you Pour the water, granulated spread it or the meringue TIPS sugar, and corn syrup into a will deflate. To make the top Before you start the recipe, read it 2-quart heavy-bottomed very even, rest a long ruler 1 through 2-3 times so you under- saucepan and place over on the two long sides of the pan and slide it across the stand the steps and why you are medium heat. When bubbles start to form around the edge top of the meringue. doing them. of the pan, insert a candy thermometer into the mixture. Combine the powdered sugar Be sure to have all the ingredients and cornstarch in a small 2 on hand and the best ingredients Place the egg whites in a bowl. Use a fine-mesh sieve you can afford. large mixing bowl and whip to to sprinkle most of this mix- stiff but not dry peaks with ture over the top of the an electric mixer set on medi- meringue. Save a little for Make sure you have all of the um-high speed, about 5 min- the next step. Let the 3 equipment the recipe asks for. utes. Be very careful not to meringue dry for 2 to 3 over whip. hours at room temperature. When you make the recipe remem- 4 ber that you are not a professional The boiling sugar will be Lightly dust your work sur- ready when it reaches 240 to face with the powdered sugar so it will take some time to make 250 degrees Fahrenheit, or mixture. Inver the meringue the dessert. You have to plan for 115 to 121 degrees Celcius. onto the work surface and this time. This is a commitment. Once it reaches that tempera- remove the parchment paper. Allow yourself the entire afternoon ture remove it immediately Use a sharp chef's knife to to bake so you can do it right. from the heat and pour it into cut the marshmallow into desired sizes. It will be easi- Pastry is something you plan in the whipping egg whites, being careful to pour it er to cut if you dip the knife advance and have to think about. against the sided of the bowl in hot water between each It's like building. so it doesn't fly out when it cut. The marshmallows will hits the whip. Place the gela- keep at room temperature, tin into the pot you just well wrapped in plastic wrap, Jacques Torres cooked the sugar in and swirl for up to 3 days.

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Bruising for a braising? You've probably seen the term "braising" on menus or in recipes, but what does it actually mean?

Braising is the process of searing food until it's brown, then cooking it in a small amount of liquid for a long period of time. Just remem- ber: heat the pan, add the oil, and add the food. Then brown it the food on all sides before adding the liquid, and slow cook on very low heat for several hours until tender. Just those six basic steps are needed for maximum flavor and tenderness. For best results, always use a tight-fitting lid - and save room for dessert!

Cinco de Mayo is the most vibrant of Mexican holidays. Commonly mistaken for ’s Independence Day, the holiday actually com- memorates the victory of the Mexican army (more a militia of Mexican citizens than a trained army) over the French army at La Batalla de Puebla (the battle of Puebla).

The events of May 5th are a source of nation- al pride: after an embattled history including fighting imperialism and colonization from many European countries, the stunning victory of the poor Mexican citizens over the French A celebration of army finally provided the Mexican people with their own independent identity – they could finally call themselves Mexicans.

Mexican On Cinco de Mayo Mexicans north and south of the border celebrate their culture and her- itage. Mariachi music, colorful parades, and culture folklorica dancing are common celebratory activites, but the real anchor of the day is the enormous native feast! Foods like tortillas and , sopas and poblano are much more traditional than the burritos and found at northern American celebrations. For the children, sweets from a cracked piñata!

How will you celebrate Cinco de Mayo? Submit your Mexican-inspired recipe today for a chance to win 1 of 5 copies of Tamales, a cookbook by Mark Miller, Stephan Pyles and John Sedlar, from Wiley Publishers. The win- ners will be selected on May 5, 2003. Submit your answers on www.starchefs.com/sweepstakes

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star cookbooks COOKBOOKS FROM STAR CHEFS! New World Kitchen: Latin American and Cuisine by Norman Van Aken with Janet Van Aken

We asked the chef to DEVILED LOBSTER onions and fennel and stir. tell us a bit more ADAPTED BY STARCHEFS Cook 2 minutes until ingredi- Yield: 6 Servings ents soften. Add the sherry about his book and and de-glaze the pan. Add his cuisine. Ingredients: the orange juice and continue 6 Spiny Lobster Tails, cooked to cook until reduced by half. What influenced you in and diced large Add the stock and reduce by writing this book? (or 2 pounds cooked half. Add the tomatoes, sea- Buena Vista Social Club. Much like ) son with salt and pepper and Ry Cooder went to for a 2 ounces butter simmer for 2 minutes. Add 2 Tablespoons olive oil or the vinegar and cook for 5 stripped down experience of ori- canola oil minutes. gins of Cuban music, I went to 1 scotch bonnet pepper, to commune with the minced Combine the lobster meat, local cooks in each country I visit- 4 scallions, green and white eggs and thyme in a bowl and ed…to learn the base secrets of parts, minced reserve. the traditions of each cuisine in 1 red onion, diced small order to share them in this book. 1/2 bulb fennel, diced small In a large sauté pan over low Culinary giant Norman Van 1 cup Spanish sherry wine heat melt the remaining How do you see your book being 1 cup orange juice ounce of butter and add the used? Aken is famous for his sig- 2 cups chicken or vegetable flour. Cook over low heat, An increasingly Latin American nature style of fusion cui- stock whisking, for 2 to 3 minutes population in has 3 tomatoes, peeled, seeded, (it should start turning given us unprecedented exposure sine, combining flavors from and chopped amber). Take off the heat and to various Latin American southern and Latin cooking 1/4 cup Spanish sherry vinegar add the curry and stir. Slowly and their ingredients. My hope is 5 eggs, hard-boiled, whites whisk in the milk and, stir that this book will serve as a to create distinctive dishes. chopped small, yolks crum- constantly, until the milk roadmap for taking this new con- His much-anticipated fourth bled begins to thicken (about 2 text and making great Latin-influ- 1/2 Tablespoon thyme leaves, minutes). Take off the heat enced food at home. cookbook, New World minced and whisk in the roasted gar- Kitchen: Latin American and 2 Tablespoons all-purpose lic, mustard and Tabasco. flour What is your favorite food region? Why? , is a 1 Tablespoon Madras curry Return the reserved tomato South America, particularly the detailed how-to guide to suc- powder sauce to the heat, bring to a cuisines of and Brazil - they 2 cups milk,scalded simmer and whisk in the dev- cessfully combining ingredi- 1 Tablespoon roasted garlic, iled cream sauce. Cook 2 are diverse, exciting, flavorful, and mashed minutes to marry the flavors. captivating. ents from the pantry to 1 Tablespoon Creole mustard Add the lobster mixture and make memorable feasts of 2 dashes Tabasco . Season with salt What do you make for your family our own. Including fascinat- Kosher salt and freshly and pepper to taste. Spoon to eat at home? cracked black pepper to the lobster cream mixture Trouble. I rely a lot on the grill. My ing historical notes and taste into individual casserole wife loves to cook - we share the 2 c ups diced pineapple style dishes and then garnish love of cuisine. I go to the market, sidebars, Chef Norman takes 1/3 cup unsweetened grated each with the toasted see what looks great, and come us from tapas and appetiz- , toasted coconut. home and improvise. I try to go to the market in the morning as hun- ers to desserts and cock- Method: Note: Spiny are gry as possible. I shop my tails, and even offers a Put 1 ounce of the butter and local to Florida and the appetite. the oil in a very large, heavy Caribbean. You can replace mouthwatering chapter on bottomed, saucepan. When the cooked lobster meat with carnival and street fare. the butter begins to melt add cooked Maine lobster, shrimp the scotch bonnet, scallions, or scallops.

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Cooking tips, food info, and shopping advice from America's top chefs. Ask your ASK favorite celebrity chefs and food experts THE anything and everything you've ever want- ed to know about food and we'll get the answer for you! Star Chefs Please submit your questions to [email protected]

EMERIL ADVICE NORMAN VAN AKEN'S A PAINT BRUSH SHOPPING WITH LAGASSE'S FROM BOBBY FLAY FLAVOR COMBINATIONS FOR MARCUS ALICE WATERS FAVORITE FARE SAMUELSSON. I have a basic question: I What are your favorite What tips can you give on the What are staple Knowing that you cannot seem to get the food combinations? best way to shop in farmer's ingredients in your have a Portuguese right taste for my beef taco markets for someone who's kitchen? background, I am filling. I like a really spicy Butter and Jelly only shopped in supermarkets. wondering what flavor, but nothing overpow- still works for me! It’s not ingredi- - Harry Gaulke, Pensacola FL your favorite ering. Any suggestions? Especially on a Ritz ents, it’s a brush. Portuguese dish Thank you in advance! cracker... I'm only kidding It’s something I’ve Most vendors at farmer's mar- is. - Dale Brown, - Charlotte Stevens, Santa - a little. Plantains and had forever, since kets will let you taste their Springfield MO Barbara CA pork is another great I was a kid. I paint produce. Tasting the food is a one. It is in the contrast on plates, for great part of the market. Also Kale soup. I use Start with onions and gar- of combinations that I am example. Anything buy small amounts of lots of lots of fresh kale, lic. Then add ground most consistently drawn is a vehicle for me different things. This way you or , ground , to. I love limejuice, sugar to serve food on. I can see how to cook with them andouille sausage, ancho chile powder, and fish sauce. I love use tiles or glass and work with a variety of potatoes and jalapeno or Serrano pep- passion fruit, honey and bricks. I don’t buy foods, instead of getting a lot chicken stock. My pers, and chopped toma- sesame oil. I love roast- the most expen- of one thing. I would go to the mom (who is toes. At the very end, add ed beef and lamb with sive china, I market without any expecta- Portuguese) used some chopped fresh caramelized onions and design my own and tions about what I want to eat to make it. Mom cilantro. You can also root vegetables. My I use stuff [that and cook that day. See what is ran the house so experiment with some other dessert interests are exists] in everyday ripe and best and buy that. we grew up eating dried chile powders such chocolate and Mandarin culture and I put it Then go back and look in cook- Portuguese food. - as pasilla, cascabel or orange, as well as curry in my restaurant. - books to see what you can do Emeril chipotle. - Bobby and pineapple - Norman Marcus with it. - Alice

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What’s issues that matter cooking? food debates What Goes Around Comes Around: 29 Contaminated Food and the Environment CITY HARVEST'S ANNUAL GALA: THE PRACTICAL MAGIC BALL by Nina Rubin Pierre Hotel/Fifth Avenue New York, NY Most of us learned the basics of nutrition from that bible 212 - 874 - 5457 www.cityharvest.org of good eating: the Food Guide Pyramid. Based on its teachings, many people think that if they focus on fruits MAY and veggies and lay off the Fritos, they're doing just fine. APRIL They are, nutritionally speaking. But these days there's 2-4 more to it than that. You know that giant salad you ate for 19-20 BRILLAT-SAVARIN REVISITED: ? Aside from bestowing your body with essential vita- FUTURES,PRE-RELEASE AND AN EXPLORATION OF THE LIBRARY TASTING: A RARE EMERGENCE OF IN mins and other goodies, it also probably gave you a calendar OPPORTUNITY TO TASTE AND 19TH CENTURY FRANCE healthy dose of toxins. PURCHASE FUTURE RELEASES Schlesinger Library OF FATHOM,PINOT NOIR AND SYRAH 10 Garden Street Babcock Winery/Vineyard Cambridge, MA A World of Toxins How about the runoff from chemical Lompac, CA 617 - 358 - 0226 From poisonous fish to toxic infant plants? It goes into our oceans, our 805 - 736 - 3886 [email protected] formula, toxic foods are found fish, and then our bellies. And what www.backcockwinery.com throughout the world, from about the toxic waste buried deep in 5 to the Arctic. In the ground? The waste infiltrates our 20 5:30 pm Argentina, exposure to pesticides underground water sources and con-

FOOD 11am-2pm THE JAMES BEARD FOUNDATION EASTER BRUNCH IN THE ENGLISH AWARDS GALA was found to be associated with taminates our soil. This is the very GARDENS: EXECUTIVE CHEF RYAN The New York Marriott sperm counts below the limit of soil that yields the grain that we SWARTHOUT'S BRUNCH TO WELCOME Marquis infertility. In the South Adriatic Sea eat, and that is fed to the cattle SPRING INTO THE VINEYARDS New York, NY (off of Italy), researchers found that that we raise for meat. Justin Vineyards & Winery 212 - 627-2090 Paso Robles, CA fish have mercury levels exceeding 800 - 726 - 0049 13-18 the recommended maximum. What Can a Poor Boy Do? [email protected] Mercury is a potent brain toxin, par- For most people with a pulse, these THE 7TH ANNUAL NANTUCKET WINE FESTIVAL ticularly dangerous for the unborn facts aren't pretty. If this informa- 25-27 Nantucket, Massachusetts children of women eating the con- tion hits your panic button, here are SCOTTSDALE GOLF 617 - 536 - 3400 taminated fish. some things that you can do: INVITATIONAL BENFIT: MAKE-A- WISH FOUNDATION AND CHAIRED Inuit infants (of the Arctic) were Support local food producers. BY BOBBY FLAY,CHEF/OWNER OF BOLO AND MESA GRILL IN NYC recently found to have a significant- Sanctuary on Camelback ly higher risk of contracting certain Be an educated consumer. Spa & Resort/Royal Palms infectious diseases. This is due to Resort and Spa/Hyatt their diet, which is rich in marine Try your hand at politics. Regency Scottsdale Resort at Gainey Ranch mammal fat, and therefore persist- www.dineinscottsdale.com ent organic pollutants (a group of The Bottom Line 866 - 540 - 5212 chemicals, such as the pesticide It's an eye-opening and often fright- dieldrin). By the way, this same ening experience to realize that our pesticide is also thought to confer most beloved foods are not just an increased risk of breast cancer. sources of comfort and nourishment, What's more, breast cancer but also vehicles for toxic sub- patients who have high levels of stances. An increasing number of did you know... dieldrin are believed to have a studies support this fact, and the poorer likelihood of survival. Such public is starting to get the picture: pesticides can be found in a variety If the planet isn't healthy, neither RUMBLES & MURMURS – WASHINGTON, D.C. of edible products, from milk and are we. More and more, people in unexpect- David Hagedorn and Greggory Hill’s new restau- meat to fruits and veggies. ed places - like the fine dining rant, David Greggory, is slated to open in April. industry - are facing the facts and The restaurant will feature contemporary American What Goes Around Comes Around taking action. Chivian's efforts and cuisine, which includes “appas,” their American You might be scratching your head the culinary capers of a group of version of tapas at this point, wondering how these toxins end up in our food. The Boston chefs are shedding light onto answer is quite simple. Those pes- the connection between food and the A branch of New York City’s famed Latin restau- ? ticides that are sprayed onto our environment. And putting a new spin rant Rosa Mexicano will open in Tyrell Place fruits and vegetables? They end up on the saying: You are what you eat. on our plates and in our bodies. Let the debate begin.

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