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Journal of Historical Research in Marketing Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing Paprika Schlesinger: The Development of a Luxury Retail Shoe Brand in Belle Époque Vienna Journal: Journal of Historical Research in Marketing Manuscript ID JHRM-10-2015-0043.R2 Manuscript Type: Research Paper Advertising history, Business history, Retailing history, Newspaper Keywords: advertising; luxury shoe and footwear retailing; tinned Hungarian paprika; Neue Freie Presse; anti-Semitism; Belle Ép JournalPage 1 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing 1 2 3 Paprika Schlesinger: 4 The Development of a Luxury Retail Shoe Brand in Belle Époque Vienna 5 6 7 8 9 Structured Abstract 10 11 Purpose: This paper explores the development of a luxury retail shoe brand in Belle Époque 12 Vienna. 13 14 Design/methodology/approach: Footwear retailing and marketing history is a neglected 15 area. Unfortunately no business records have survived from Robert Schlesinger’s shoe 16 stores. However, it has been possible to reconstruct the history of the development of the 17 Paprika Schlesinger brand from its extensive advertising in the Viennese newspaper the Neue 18 Freie Presse with the guidance of the founder’s grandson, Professor Robert A. Shaw, 19 20 Emeritus Professor of Chemistry, Birkbeck, University of London, England. This case study 21 would not have been possible without the digitization of some major collections of primary 22 sources. In 2014 the European Union’s Europeana digitization initiative launched a new 23 portal via the Library of Europe website which provides access to selected digitized historic 24 newspaper collections in libraries across Europe. The project partners include the Austrian 25 National Library which has digitized full runs of several major historic Austrian newspapers 26 including the Neue Freie Presse . Other project partners which have digitized historic 27 newspapers which are relevant to this article are the Landesbibliothek Dr. Friedrich Teβmann 28 of Italy’s Südtirol region, the National Library of France, and the Berlin State Library. An 29 30 associate project partner library, the Slovenian National and University Library’s Digital 31 Library of Slovenia, has also digitized relevant historic newspapers. Furthermore the City of 32 Vienna has digitized a complete set of Vienna city directories as part of its Wienbibliothek 33 Digital project. 34 35 Findings: This paper suggests that Robert Schlesinger created one of first European luxury 36 retail shoe brands. 37 38 Originality/value: This is the first academic study of the historical development of the 39 40 advertising and marketing of a European luxury retail shoe brand. 41 42 Keywords: Newspaper advertising; luxury shoe and footwear retailing; tinned Hungarian 43 paprika; Neue Freie Presse ; anti-Semitism; Belle Époque Austrian Jewish enterprise. 44 45 Paper type: Research paper. 46 47 48 49 50 Introduction 51 52 The Belle Époque , the golden age, refers to the period from the end of the Franco-Prussian 53 54 War in 1871 to the outbreak of the World War I in 1914. The economic dislocation resulting 55 56 from World War I led the French to retrospectively refer to the period 1871-1914 as la Belle 57 58 59 60 1 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 2 of 42 1 2 3 Époque . During this period the western and central European middle and upper classes, 4 5 including those of Austria-Hungary, experienced a significant increase in their living 6 7 standards. Crafts (1984, p. 440), using 1970 U.S. dollars, estimates gross national product 8 9 10 per capita in the Austrian half of the dual monarchy rose from $466 in 1870 to $802 in 1910. 11 12 Philippe Jullian, the art historian, (1982, pp. 12, 22-23) suggests Vienna was even more of a 13 14 Belle Époque capital city than Paris if one considers only the world of pleasure. The Belle 15 16 Époque is a period associated with the conspicuous consumption of luxury goods including 17 18 19 footwear. The American journalist Harrison Rhodes (1913, p. 336) observed in an article on 20 21 the spa resort of Carlsbad in the Austrian crown land of Bohemia that “It is agreeably borne 22 23 upon the visitor from the West that he has gone beyond the influence of Paris, and that in 24 25 these regions of East Europe (sic), that proud imperial capital Vienna provides fashions and 26 27 elegancies all of its own, and makes no apologies as it offers them.” 28 29 30 The first European luxury retail brands began to emerge during the Belle Époque . 31 32 However, there are very few historical studies of the first western and central European 33 34 specialist luxury retail brands. The chapter on advertising in Claire Rose’s (2010, pp. 87- 35 36 110) monograph on boy’s clothes in late-Victorian England is a notable exception as is 37 38 39 Lourdes M. Font’s (2012) article on international couture. The same is the case for the 40 41 history of luxury footwear retail brands. Xavier Gille’s (2011, pp. 62-64) biography of the 42 43 footwear manufacturer and retailer François Pinet, who established a Paris luxury footwear 44 45 store and brand in the mid-1860s, appears to be the only example. Unfortunately Gille’s 46 47 biography devotes relatively little attention to marketing and advertising. This article on the 48 49 50 Viennese luxury shoe retailer, Robert Schlesinger (1853-1902), begins to address this gap in 51 52 the literature. 53 54 Historian John W. Boyer (1981, p. 47) observes that in 1852 Vienna had two retail 55 56 shoe stores. During the next four decades the city experienced a huge increase in the number 57 58 59 60 2 JournalPage 3 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing 1 2 3 of small and medium sized retailers. In 1890 the same districts of the city had 79 shoe 4 5 retailers. Schlesinger differentiated his business from his competitors as one of the most 6 7 exclusive Austro-Hungarian stores, those patronized by the wealthy (Houze, 2015, p. 187). 8 9 10 By doing this he was able to retain a dominant position in this segment of the market. In 11 12 1896 he was to achieve fame for selling the most expensive pair of shoes of the day to a 13 14 Russian woman. Manufactured in his store, the pair of low-cut shoes were made of atlas silk 15 16 with silver embroidery designed by an artist. Each shoe was decorated with three diamonds, 17 18 19 reported to be worth 600 Roubles each (Bozner Zeitung, 1896). 20 21 22 23 Robert Schlesinger’s Early Life 24 25 Schlesinger was a Hungarian born Jew who founded a store in September 1879 at 2 26 27 Wallfischgasse in the center of Vienna, in the vicinity of the State Opera House, retailing a 28 29 30 strange combination of tinned paprika and high class shoes ( Neue Freie Presse , 1879a). The 31 32 store was located in a monumental Venetian style landmark building, the Palais Todesco, 33 34 which had been commissioned in the early 1860s as a private residence by the Jewish 35 36 banking baron, Eduard Todesco, and his brother Moritz (Bedoire 2004, pp. 310-313). The 37 38 39 Palais Todesco also housed other luxury retailers including milliners, P. u. C. Habig, who had 40 41 opened their exclusive store in 1874 around the corner from Schlesinger’s future store 42 43 (Habig, 2011). The tinned paprika was sourced from Schlesinger’s place of birth, Szeged in 44 45 south-western Hungary, which was a noted center for paprika production. By the 1890s 46 47 Schlesinger’s tinned Hungarian paprika was being exported as far afield as New York City 48 49 50 (New York Sun 1895). The business was still retailing its unusual combination of luxury 51 52 footwear and tinned paprika in 1902, the year of the founder’s death. A drawing of the 53 54 storefront in the Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902) (see Figure 1) shows the signage was as 55 56 57 58 59 60 3 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 4 of 42 1 2 3 follows: “Schuhe: Etablissement Robert Schlesinger: Paprika”, which roughly translates as 4 5 “Shoes: Robert Schlesinger’s Store: Paprika”. 6 7 INSERT Figure 1 Here 8 9 10 Figure 1. Schuhe: Etablissement Robert Schlesinger: Paprika, 1902 11 12 Source: Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902) 6 April, p. 8, 13 14 http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=iwe&datum=19020406&seite=8&zoom=33 15 16 (accessed 2 November 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library 17 18 19 20 21 Robert Reuben Schlesinger, was born in 1853 in Szeged the son of Jakob and Josefine 22 23 Schlesinger, German speaking Jews (Talmore, 2015a).1 The German language was the lingua 24 25 franca of the Austrian Empire (with Hungarian as an alternative lingua franca alongside 26 27 German in the eastern part of the empire) notwithstanding the efforts of nationalists in 28 29 30 various parts of the empire to replace German with revived languages such as Czech. Szeged 31 32 County was a noted center for the production of paprika, a processed form of pepper used to 33 34 spice food in Austria-Hungary. Jakob Schlesinger was a wholesale spice merchant 35 36 specializing in paprika (Allgemeine Ősterreichische Gerichts-Zeitung 1864). At the time of 37 38 2 39 his death in December 1863 (Talmore 2015b) , Jews in the Austrian Empire lacked full civil 40 41 rights.
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