Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
Paprika Schlesinger: The Development of a Luxury Retail Shoe Brand in Belle Époque Vienna
Journal: Journal of Historical Research in Marketing
Manuscript ID JHRM-10-2015-0043.R2
Manuscript Type: Research Paper
Advertising history, Business history, Retailing history, Newspaper Keywords: advertising; luxury shoe and footwear retailing; tinned Hungarian paprika; Neue Freie Presse; anti-Semitism; Belle Ép
JournalPage 1 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Paprika Schlesinger: 4 The Development of a Luxury Retail Shoe Brand in Belle Époque Vienna 5 6 7 8 9 Structured Abstract 10 11 Purpose: This paper explores the development of a luxury retail shoe brand in Belle Époque 12 Vienna. 13 14 Design/methodology/approach: Footwear retailing and marketing history is a neglected 15 area. Unfortunately no business records have survived from Robert Schlesinger’s shoe 16 stores. However, it has been possible to reconstruct the history of the development of the 17 Paprika Schlesinger brand from its extensive advertising in the Viennese newspaper the Neue 18 Freie Presse with the guidance of the founder’s grandson, Professor Robert A. Shaw, 19 20 Emeritus Professor of Chemistry, Birkbeck, University of London, England. This case study 21 would not have been possible without the digitization of some major collections of primary 22 sources. In 2014 the European Union’s Europeana digitization initiative launched a new 23 portal via the Library of Europe website which provides access to selected digitized historic 24 newspaper collections in libraries across Europe. The project partners include the Austrian 25 National Library which has digitized full runs of several major historic Austrian newspapers 26 including the Neue Freie Presse . Other project partners which have digitized historic 27 newspapers which are relevant to this article are the Landesbibliothek Dr. Friedrich Teβmann 28 of Italy’s Südtirol region, the National Library of France, and the Berlin State Library. An 29 30 associate project partner library, the Slovenian National and University Library’s Digital 31 Library of Slovenia, has also digitized relevant historic newspapers. Furthermore the City of 32 Vienna has digitized a complete set of Vienna city directories as part of its Wienbibliothek 33 Digital project. 34 35 Findings: This paper suggests that Robert Schlesinger created one of first European luxury 36 retail shoe brands. 37 38 Originality/value: This is the first academic study of the historical development of the 39 40 advertising and marketing of a European luxury retail shoe brand. 41 42 Keywords: Newspaper advertising; luxury shoe and footwear retailing; tinned Hungarian 43 paprika; Neue Freie Presse ; anti Semitism; Belle Époque Austrian Jewish enterprise. 44 45 Paper type: Research paper. 46 47 48 49 50 Introduction 51 52 The Belle Époque , the golden age, refers to the period from the end of the Franco Prussian 53 54 War in 1871 to the outbreak of the World War I in 1914. The economic dislocation resulting 55 56 from World War I led the French to retrospectively refer to the period 1871 1914 as la Belle 57 58 59 60 1
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 2 of 42
1 2 3 Époque . During this period the western and central European middle and upper classes, 4 5 including those of Austria Hungary, experienced a significant increase in their living 6 7 standards. Crafts (1984, p. 440), using 1970 U.S. dollars, estimates gross national product 8 9 10 per capita in the Austrian half of the dual monarchy rose from $466 in 1870 to $802 in 1910. 11 12 Philippe Jullian, the art historian, (1982, pp. 12, 22 23) suggests Vienna was even more of a 13 14 Belle Époque capital city than Paris if one considers only the world of pleasure. The Belle 15 16 Époque is a period associated with the conspicuous consumption of luxury goods including 17 18 19 footwear. The American journalist Harrison Rhodes (1913, p. 336) observed in an article on 20 21 the spa resort of Carlsbad in the Austrian crown land of Bohemia that “It is agreeably borne 22 23 upon the visitor from the West that he has gone beyond the influence of Paris, and that in 24 25 these regions of East Europe (sic), that proud imperial capital Vienna provides fashions and 26 27 elegancies all of its own, and makes no apologies as it offers them.” 28 29 30 The first European luxury retail brands began to emerge during the Belle Époque . 31 32 However, there are very few historical studies of the first western and central European 33 34 specialist luxury retail brands. The chapter on advertising in Claire Rose’s (2010, pp. 87 35 36 110) monograph on boy’s clothes in late Victorian England is a notable exception as is 37 38 39 Lourdes M. Font’s (2012) article on international couture. The same is the case for the 40 41 history of luxury footwear retail brands. Xavier Gille’s (2011, pp. 62 64) biography of the 42 43 footwear manufacturer and retailer François Pinet, who established a Paris luxury footwear 44 45 store and brand in the mid 1860s, appears to be the only example. Unfortunately Gille’s 46 47 biography devotes relatively little attention to marketing and advertising. This article on the 48 49 50 Viennese luxury shoe retailer, Robert Schlesinger (1853 1902), begins to address this gap in 51 52 the literature. 53 54 Historian John W. Boyer (1981, p. 47) observes that in 1852 Vienna had two retail 55 56 shoe stores. During the next four decades the city experienced a huge increase in the number 57 58 59 60 2
JournalPage 3 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 of small and medium sized retailers. In 1890 the same districts of the city had 79 shoe 4 5 retailers. Schlesinger differentiated his business from his competitors as one of the most 6 7 exclusive Austro Hungarian stores, those patronized by the wealthy (Houze, 2015, p. 187). 8 9 10 By doing this he was able to retain a dominant position in this segment of the market. In 11 12 1896 he was to achieve fame for selling the most expensive pair of shoes of the day to a 13 14 Russian woman. Manufactured in his store, the pair of low cut shoes were made of atlas silk 15 16 with silver embroidery designed by an artist. Each shoe was decorated with three diamonds, 17 18 19 reported to be worth 600 Roubles each (Bozner Zeitung, 1896). 20 21 22 23 Robert Schlesinger’s Early Life 24 25 Schlesinger was a Hungarian born Jew who founded a store in September 1879 at 2 26 27 Wallfischgasse in the center of Vienna, in the vicinity of the State Opera House, retailing a 28 29 30 strange combination of tinned paprika and high class shoes ( Neue Freie Presse , 1879a). The 31 32 store was located in a monumental Venetian style landmark building, the Palais Todesco, 33 34 which had been commissioned in the early 1860s as a private residence by the Jewish 35 36 banking baron, Eduard Todesco, and his brother Moritz (Bedoire 2004, pp. 310 313). The 37 38 39 Palais Todesco also housed other luxury retailers including milliners, P. u. C. Habig, who had 40 41 opened their exclusive store in 1874 around the corner from Schlesinger’s future store 42 43 (Habig, 2011). The tinned paprika was sourced from Schlesinger’s place of birth, Szeged in 44 45 south western Hungary, which was a noted center for paprika production. By the 1890s 46 47 Schlesinger’s tinned Hungarian paprika was being exported as far afield as New York City 48 49 50 (New York Sun 1895). The business was still retailing its unusual combination of luxury 51 52 footwear and tinned paprika in 1902, the year of the founder’s death. A drawing of the 53 54 storefront in the Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902) (see Figure 1) shows the signage was as 55 56 57 58 59 60 3
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 4 of 42
1 2 3 follows: “Schuhe: Etablissement Robert Schlesinger: Paprika”, which roughly translates as 4 5 “Shoes: Robert Schlesinger’s Store: Paprika”. 6 7 INSERT Figure 1 Here 8 9 10 Figure 1. Schuhe: Etablissement Robert Schlesinger: Paprika, 1902 11 12 Source: Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902) 6 April, p. 8, 13 14 http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=iwe&datum=19020406&seite=8&zoom=33 15 16 (accessed 2 November 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library 17 18 19 20 21 Robert Reuben Schlesinger, was born in 1853 in Szeged the son of Jakob and Josefine 22 23 Schlesinger, German speaking Jews (Talmore, 2015a).1 The German language was the lingua 24 25 franca of the Austrian Empire (with Hungarian as an alternative lingua franca alongside 26 27 German in the eastern part of the empire) notwithstanding the efforts of nationalists in 28 29 30 various parts of the empire to replace German with revived languages such as Czech. Szeged 31 32 County was a noted center for the production of paprika, a processed form of pepper used to 33 34 spice food in Austria Hungary. Jakob Schlesinger was a wholesale spice merchant 35 36 specializing in paprika (Allgemeine Ősterreichische Gerichts Zeitung 1864). At the time of 37 38 2 39 his death in December 1863 (Talmore 2015b) , Jews in the Austrian Empire lacked full civil 40 41 rights. They did not gain full civil rights until four years later as part of the Constitutional 42 43 Compromise of 1867 that created the Dual Monarchy of Austria Hungary. It would appear 44 45 that Josefine Schlesinger took charge of her husband’s business after his death (Talmore 46 47 2015c). 3 Robert Schlesinger later recollected he had as a boy sold paprika door to door 48 49 50 (Neues Wiener Journal , 1898). He also recalled that he loved reading the classics of different 51 52 nations including Schiller. He believed his fortune was made because a person who is 53 54 educated does not stop thinking (Die Bombe, 1885). 55 56 57 58 59 60 4
JournalPage 5 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 In 1873 at the age of 20 Schlesinger moved to Vienna to seek his fortune, as he later 4 5 recalled, remembering the beautiful words “outside Hungary there is no paprika.” He was 6 7 initially based in premises at 4 Wallfischgasse (Anon., 1875, p. 476; Die Bombe, 1885). In 8 9 10 1877 Robert Schlesinger moved to 3 Maximilian Strasse, also in the center of Vienna (Anon., 11 12 1878, p. 784.). The following year while at this address he founded a business retailing 13 14 paprika (Anon., 1881, p. 68). While there he placed his first classified advertisements in the 15 16 Neue Freie Presse advertising “the first Paprika store”, the first of which was published in 20 17 18 19 October 1878 ( Neue Freie Presse , 1878). This was the beginning of a business relationship 20 21 with the Neue Freie Presse which lasted until Schlesinger’s death in 1902. There were very 22 23 few European luxury footwear brands advertised in newspapers during the Belle Époque . 24 25 The belief of the partners in C. & J. Clark Ltd., British manufacturers of high quality 26 27 footwear, that newspapers represented the mass market was probably held by many in the 28 29 30 sector (Palmer, 2013, pp. 57 58). Schlesinger and Pinet were atypical in using newspaper 31 32 advertising to market luxury footwear. 33 34 It is no coincidence that Schlesinger chose the Neue Freie Press to place his first 35 36 advertisements. It had been founded in 1864 by Michael Etienne, Max Friedländer and Adolf 37 38 39 Wertheimer, of whom the last two were baptized Jews. After the deaths of two editors, 40 41 Friedländer in 1872 and Etienne in 1879, Eduard Bacher became editor and publisher shortly 42 43 afterwards. He was soon eclipsed by the journalist, Moritz Benedict. Both Bacher and 44 45 Benedict were affiliated to the liberal Judaism of the Bohemian Moravian crown lands. The 46 47 two journalists became major shareholders in the company that owned the Neue Freie Presse . 48 49 50 The Austrian Jewish émigré historian Max Grunwald suggests that the newspaper became 51 52 associated with big merchants, railroad builders, financiers, industrialists, and commercial 53 54 magnates and brokers. The Neue Freie Presse was one of two daily newspapers in the 55 56 empire with a national readership, the other being the Neues Wiener Tagblatt which was read 57 58 59 60 5
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 6 of 42
1 2 3 by the lower middle class. On the eve of the World War I the Neue Freie Presse had a daily 4 5 circulation of 68,000 ( Neue Freie Presse , 1914; Grunwald, 1936, pp. 323 324; Die Presse , 6 7 2015; BFDC, 1913, pp. 69 74). 8 9 10 11 12 Formative Years of Paprika Schlesinger 13 14 In September 1879 Schlesinger moved back to Wallfischgasse opening a retail establishment 15 16 at No.2 selling an odd combination of tinned paprika and luxury shoes ( Neue Freie Presse , 17 18 19 1879a; 1879b). On 7 December 1879 he advertised his new store with a classified 20 21 advertisement announcing the arrival of winter shoes ( Neue Freie Presse , 1879b) which can 22 23 be seen in Figure 2. The following year he placed classified advertisements for both paprika 24 25 and shoes in the Neue Freie Presse (1880). The paprika advertisement was illustrated on one 26 27 side by a stereotypical Hungarian man with a moustache pouring paprika on his food and on 28 29 30 the other side some overlapping medallions and claimed Schlesinger offered royal paprika for 31 32 sale. The shoe advertisement’s slogan proclaimed that his store offered “the largest selection 33 34 of shoes in the monarchy” at the first large footwear establishment and was illustrated with 35 36 two boots. This became a longstanding slogan and was still being used in late 1898 ( Neue 37 38 39 Freie Presse , 1898g). The following year the shoe advertisement was enlarged to include 40 41 four items of footwear in the advertisement and now claimed Schlesinger was also a 42 43 manufacturer ( Neue Freie Presse , 1881). During the next few years Schlesinger placed 44 45 variants of the advertisements in the Neue Freie Presse. 46 47 INSERT Figure 2 Here 48 49 50 Figure 2. ‘Winter Shoes’ Classified Advertisement, 1879 51 52 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1879) 7 December, p. 25, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi 53 54 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum=18791207&seite=25&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 55 56 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 57 58 59 60 6
JournalPage 7 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 At some point during the first half of the 1880s he adopted the brand name “Paprika 4 5 Schlesinger” which he applied to the unrelated shoe business as well as his paprika business. 6 7 This is one of the earliest examples of an entrepreneur taking a product name from their 8 9 10 initial business and applying it to an unrelated subsequent business. Schlesinger’s brand 11 12 naming innovation predates that of the British Jewish entrepreneur, Marcus Samuel, who 13 14 took the name “Shell” from his father’s import–export business. One of his father’s 15 16 company’s main imports was vast quantities of shells which the Victorians used for 17 18 19 ornament. Samuel astutely abandoned shells for oil. A BBC documentary (1990) claimed 20 21 that “Shell” was adopted by Samuel in 1891 as the brand name for kerosene which he 22 23 shipped to the Far East. However, although the official business history of Shell suggests 24 25 that product differentiation by distinctive branding later became a Shell company maxim, 26 27 based on the belief that commodities kill the trade, neither the name nor eponymous logo 28 29 30 appear to have been used to promote products until 1904 (Jonker and van Zanden, 2007, p. 31 32 367). This suggests that Schlesinger’s branding innovation predated that of Samuel by two 33 34 decades rather than six or seven years. It was not until 1904, two years after Schlesinger’s 35 36 death, that another shoe retailer did something similar. In that year Berlin shoe manufacturer, 37 38 39 Rudolf Moos (1866 1951), used a newt like amphibian to create the mass market 40 41 ‘Salamander’ retail footwear brand with its own patent to market the boots manufactured by 42 43 Jacob Sigle and Max Levi of J. Sigle und Cie, Kornwestheim, near the German city of 44 45 Stuttgart. Moos became a partner in the Kornwestheim business (Schmitt, 1999, pp. 1 32, 46 47 154 167, 310 315; Schmitt, 2005, pp. 16 18; Moos, 2010, pp. 231 274). 48 49 50 Schlesinger did not make use of the Paprika Schlesinger brand name in his classified 51 52 newspaper advertisements until 1893, in the 22 October advertisement ( Neue Freie Presse , 53 54 1893) for paprika in Figure 3. Until the mid 1890s newspaper advertising was confined to 55 56 classified advertisements of which perhaps as many as 50 or more would be placed on one 57 58 59 60 7
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 8 of 42
1 2 3 page. To develop his brand Schlesinger employed other types of innovative marketing to 4 5 launch his new brand as he revealed in January 1885 in an interview in a profile in the 6 7 Viennese satirical magazine Die Bombe (1885) with a front page cartoon of him astride St 8 9 10 Stephen’s Cathedral spire showering Vienna with pepper from two tins of Paprika 11 12 Schlesinger, as can be seen in Figure 4. The profile revealed three innovative marketing 13 14 initiatives. First he donated 2 gulden at every charity collection “until it was common 15 16 knowledge Schlesinger was a good man and that you could find the most exquisite paprika at 17 18 19 2 Wallfischgasse and shame on him who thinks ill of it” (Die Bombe 1885, p. 2). This 20 21 initiative was adopted as a long term marketing strategy (Reichspost 1898). Later during the 22 23 1890s Schlesinger also donated several hundred pairs of warm shoes to the Viennese destitute 24 25 (Wiener Communal Kalendar 1893, p. 443; 1894, p. 422; 1895, p. 397). Second he had free 26 27 cookbooks handed out on the occasion of the Prater parade which took place each year on 1 28 29 30 May. Third on the occasion of New Year’s Eve 1884 every guest in one of Vienna’s finest 31 32 restaurants received a paprika bouquet. They were also handed out en masse the following 33 34 afternoon to all of the participants of the Ringstraβen Parade. 35 36 37 38 39 INSERT Figures 3 and 4 Here 40 41 Figure 3.‘Paprika Schlesinger’ Classified Advertisement, 1893 42 43 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1893) 22 October, p. 16, 44 45 http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=nfp&datum=18931022&seite=16&zoom=33 46 47 (Accessed 2 November 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 48 49 50 51 52 Figure 4. Die Bombe Front Cover, 1885 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 8
JournalPage 9 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Source: Die Bombe (1885) 11 January, p. 1, 4 5 http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=bom&datum=18850111&seite=1&zoom=33 6 7 (Accessed 2 November 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 8 9 10 11 12 Schlesinger developed a longstanding relationship with Die Bombe . A few years later 13 14 the magazine (1889; 1894) created a new column entitled “From the Diary of Paprika 15 16 Schlesinger”, featuring a cartoon image of Schlesinger, which appeared on an irregular basis 17 18 19 from November 1889 to March 1894. It appears to have been authored by Schlesinger 20 21 himself and explored issues such as anti Semitic newspapers. Schlesinger was already a 22 23 celebrity retailer by the mid 1880s and had established his brand name in the Viennese 24 25 consciousness. Paprika Schlesinger was a personal brand as well as one for shoes and tinned 26 27 paprika. 28 29 30 There are parallels with the way the British entrepreneur Richard Branson has made his 31 32 personality inseparable from his Virgin brand since the mid 1980s (Gordon, 2015, p. 37). 33 34 Like Branson Schlesinger never missed an opportunity to promote his business. For 35 36 example, an opportunity arose in 1885. Johann Palisa, an astronomer at the Vienna 37 38 39 Observatory, offered the right to name a newly discovered asteroid, Planet No. 244, in return 40 41 for a donation of 500 florint ($250) to help fund a fieldtrip to observe a total solar eclipse that 42 43 was to take place the following year. Schlesinger offered Palisa 500 florint to name the 44 45 asteroid “Paprika Schlesinger” which generated significant publicity for his business 46 47 throughout the Austro Hungarian dual monarchy, the wider German speaking world, and also 48 49 50 in Britain and America. As the Berliner Tageblatt observed his money secured him an 51 52 eternal advertisement in the sky. Schlesinger believed such original publicity was well worth 53 54 the money (Raab, c.2002; Der Deutsche Correspondent , 1885; Laibacher Zeitung, 1885; 55 56 Berliner Tageblatt, 1885; 1886). The Wrexham Advertiser (1885), a Welsh newspaper, noted 57 58 59 60 9
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 10 of 42
1 2 3 that the “Hungarian firm, ‘Paprika Schlesinger’,” was the only bidder, and “sincerely hoped, 4 5 for the credit of England and the comfort of the sidereal system, that some English tradesman 6 7 with a less heathenish name will step into the breach.” Unlike the anti Semitic Welsh 8 9 10 newspaper, the Chicago Current (1885) welcomed the fact that the Hungarian shopkeeper’s 11 12 offer had been accepted by Palisa, further observing: “In this advertising age other 13 14 industrious astronomers should be able to do a thriving business in thus placarding the sky 15 16 with the names of enterprising individuals seeking to make their wares known.” 17 18 19 He achieved further international recognition in 1893. In May he sent a copy of a cook 20 21 book he had published promoting his tinned Paprika Schlesinger to the German language 22 23 newspaper, Der Deutsche Correspondent , based in Baltimore, Maryland. The newspaper 24 25 noted that Schlesinger’s business sold two million tins of paprika a year. He also revealed in 26 27 an accompanying letter that he was taking part in the World’s Columbian Exposition in 28 29 30 Chicago with an exhibit in the Old Vienna pavilion. A pretty Hungarian woman and a 31 32 handsome Viennese man were to hand one million cookery books in addition to star shaped 33 34 tins of paprika and paprika bouquets as souvenirs (Der Deutsche Correspondent , 1893; 35 36 Handy, 1893, p. 589). Houze (2015, p. 187) has observed that Austro Hungarian merchants 37 38 th 39 regularly displaced their products at such international exhibitions in the 19 century. 40 41 42 43 The Zenith of Paprika Schlesinger under Robert Schesinger’s Leadership 44 45 46 Insert Table 1 Here 47 48 49 Table 1. Paprika Schlesinger Branch Stores 50 51 52 By the mid 1890s Schlesinger’s business had become successful enough for him to open 53 54 branch stores elsewhere in Austria Hungary in Budapest, Carlsbad, Marienbad, Bad Ischl and 55 56 Meran (Neue Freie Presse 1895). A store was opened in May 1895 at 6 Dorottya Street, 57 58 59 60 10
JournalPage 11 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Budapest (Pester Lloyd 1895), in a similar building and location to the one in Vienna. The 4 5 other four stores were located in Austrian spa resorts. They reflected Schlesinger’s desire to 6 7 secure the custom and endorsements of the members of the European aristocracy and 8 9 10 monarchies who patronized these resorts. Of these four stores, the one in the South Tyrolese 11 12 health spa of Meran, was short lived (Leonardi, 2010, pp. 105 106 ; Der Burggräfler, 1894; 13 14 Meraner Zeitung, 1896). It was probably no coincidence that the Austrian imperial family’s 15 16 summer residence, the Kaiservilla , was located in Bad Ischl. Earlier in October 1890 he had 17 18 19 attempted to secure the endorsement of the German Emperor when he distributed several 20 21 thousand bouquets to pay homage to Wilhelm II, when he made a state visit to Vienna. The 22 23 bouquets consisted of a flower made of straw, some ivy leaves and in the center a paprika 24 25 pepper with a message on paper saying “Hail Emperor Wilhelm II; Hail Emperor Franz Josef 26 27 I.” (Nickolsburger Wochenschrift, 1890). A few years later, during the summer of 1899 he 28 29 30 seized the opportunity to secure the endorsement of the British Prince of Wales and future 31 32 King Edward VII by taking advantage of what was probably a carefully planned chance 33 34 meeting in Marienbad. The Prince of Wales vacationed at the Hotel Weimar in Marienbad 35 36 from 11 August to 1 September ( Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper , 1899; Penny Illustrated Paper, 37 38 39 1899). A report in the Berliner Tageblatt (1900) about the encounter noted Schlesinger’s 40 41 conspicuous attire: a white pith helmet with a long feather, a white jacket and yellow knee 42 43 breeches. Schlesinger was said to have introduced himself with the words “I am the famous 44 45 Paprika Schlesinger.” The Prince looked at him a little surprised, and so Schlesinger added 46 47 “you will be pleased to hear that my yellow trousers were made in England.” Edward Legge 48 49 50 (1913, pp. 114 115) later recalled in his biography of the prince that Schlesinger had then lent 51 52 him his carriage which was the only one in the resort with pneumatic tires, which were very 53 54 uncommon at that time. Subsequently Schlesinger placed photographs in his store windows 55 56 proclaiming “On this day the Prince of Wales drove in this carriage.” John Benson (1994, p. 57 58 59 60 11
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 12 of 42
1 2 3 145) notes that during the same period British advertisers also attempted to include royalty in 4 5 their publicity stunts. It is probable that Schlesinger also attempted to secure a royal warrant 6 7 from the Austrian Emperor. Rebecca Houze (2015, p. 187) has observed such stores were 8 9 10 recognized with the imperial warrant “k. k.” or “k. und k.” (kaiserlich und königlich) to 11 12 signpost their special status. Schlesinger achieved this imperial recognition posthumously in 13 14 1910 ( Neue Freie Presse 1910b), by which time he had been dead for over eight years. 15 16 The new stores in the Bohemian spa resorts are also significant for another reason. 17 18 19 They situate Paprika Schlesinger in a haute bourgeois Austrian Jewish milieu. The store in 20 21 Marienbad was located in the Hotel Walhalla owned by David Löwenthal. It was an 22 23 orthodox Jewish establishment with a kosher restaurant. Mirjam Zadoff (2012, pp. 114, 116) 24 25 notes that in 1894 for example the rabbis of Prague, Budapest, Lemberg, Iglau, and 26 27 Marienbad had organized a festival banquet at this hotel in honor of Hermann Adler, the 28 29 30 Chief Rabbi of Great Britain and Ireland. Zadoff also observes that during this decade Jews 31 32 had changed from a minority to a majority of the guests in western Bohemian spa resorts 33 34 including Marienbad and Carlsbad. In the year of Schlesinger’s death, 1902, the Marienbad 35 36 Zionists organized a lecture evening with international speakers in the Walhalla’s large hall. 37 38 39 Theodor Herzl, the founder of Zionism, was a longstanding employee of the Neue Freie 40 41 Presse notwithstanding the fact the newspaper was opposed to Zionism. Schlesinger was a 42 43 friend of Herzl, although he was probably not a Zionist (Ischler Cur Liste, 1899, Anon., 44 45 1914, pp. 45 47; Cowen, 1929, p. 105.) Zadoff (p. 153) also points to a less attractive aspect 46 47 of these Bohemian spa towns. She suggests anti Semitism was stronger in the district in 48 49 50 which Carlsbad was located than anywhere else in the Austrian crown land of Bohemia. 51 52 The branch store in Budapest was supported by advertising in the German language 53 54 Budapest newspaper Pester Lloyd (1895). In November 1896 Schlesinger placed a much 55 56 larger advertisement in Pester Lloyd (1896) than the ones he had previously published in the 57 58 59 60 12
JournalPage 13 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Neue Freie Presse . From the mid 1890s improvements in printing technology allowed 4 5 newspapers in Austria Hungary, and elsewhere in western Europe, to offer the opportunity 6 7 for illustrated display advertisements that took up a larger share of the page and indeed a 8 9 10 whole page if required. Schlesinger took advantage of this new opportunity with great 11 12 enthusiasm. The advertisement shows Schlesinger up in the air in a balloon over Vienna 13 14 cascading shoes down to a group of enthusiastic customers. The steeple of St. Stephen’s 15 16 Cathedral can be seen in the background. The advertisement proclaims the “biggest shoe 17 18 19 establishment”. It differs from contemporary Austro Hungarian newspaper advertisements in 20 21 its surreal scenario, which anticipates similar surreal post 1945 television advertisements. 22 23 The Pester Lloyd advertisement also reveals that Schlesinger had entered a sales 24 25 agreement with a company based in Riga. Founded in 1888 Prowodnik (Société des 26 27 Fabriques Russe Françaises Pour la Production des Articles de Caoutchouc, Gutta Percha et 28 29 30 de Télégrahie) was one of Russia’s largest companies with 6,000 workers and 250 white 31 32 collar employees. It produced a variety of rubber and gutta percha products including the 33 34 “Star” branded rubber galoshes and snow shoes of which Schlesinger became the official 35 36 stockist for Austria Hungary ( Neue Freie Presse 1897a; La Nouvelle Revue , 1907; Rigasche 37 38 39 Rundschau, 1908). This advertisement appeared several more times during the next few 40 41 weeks in the Budapest newspaper. A version of the advertisement also appeared on 1 42 43 December in the Neue Freie Presse . 44 45 On 6 December Schlesinger published his first full page advertisement in the Neue 46 47 Freie Presse (1896) as can be seen in Figure 5 . It depicted a band of joyous drunken gnomes 48 49 50 playing with shoes and boots. Two bottles of what appear to be Scotch whisky and one bottle 51 52 of French brandy are in the center of the picture. This advertisement is even more surreal 53 54 than the previous one with Schlesinger in a balloon. It appeared again in the Viennese 55 56 newspaper on the 22 December. The advertising journalist Robert J. Kelly (1927, p. 451) 57 58 59 60 13
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 14 of 42
1 2 3 writing in the British trade journal, The Footwear Organiser , observes that the “fact that the 4 5 picture plays so important a part in an advertisement is no doubt due to the psychological 6 7 axiom that it is the unusual which attracts, however good the usual may be. The picture is the 8 9 10 unusual insofar as it contrasts with the reading matter surrounding an advertisement in a 11 12 [news]paper or magazine.” However, Schlesinger went one step further. He believed in the 13 14 power of the “unusual” in the literal sense of the word. 15 16 INSERT Figure 5 Here 17 18 19 Figure 5. ‘The Biggest Selection in the Monarchy’ Display Advertisement, 1896 20 21 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1896) 6 December, p. 21, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi 22 23 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18961206&seite=21&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 24 25 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 26 27 The following year Schlesinger intensified the advertising of his business in Vienna 28 29 30 although only one advertisement appeared in Pester Lloyd during the Christmas season on 8 31 32 December, the one with him in the balloon. In Vienna he began the Christmas season with a 33 34 modified and darker version of the riotous gnomes advertisement in the Neue Freie Presse 35 36 (1897b) on 31 October. This was followed by the most surreal advertisement to date on 14 37 38 39 November ( Neue Freie Presse 1897c) which depicted Schlesinger astride the top of the spire 40 41 of St. Stephen’s Cathedral cascading shoes and boots down to a crowd of haute bourgeois 42 43 Viennese, as can be seen in Figure 6. This advertisement was clearly inspired by the 1885 44 45 Die Bombe satirical cartoon. Schlesinger had offered a prize for the design of the 46 47 advertisement. As a result he was summoned to the prosecutor’s office and agreed to 48 49 50 withdraw the advertisement in that particular form (Reichspost, 1898; Neues Wiener Journal , 51 52 1898). The Christmas season ended with an uncontroversial Art Noveau advertisement on the 53 54 25 December ( Neue Freie Presse 1897d) headed by a Paprika Pepper logo incorporating a 55 56 pepper plants design as can be seen in Figure 7. 57 58 59 60 14
JournalPage 15 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 INSERT Figures 6 and 7 Here 4 5 6 7 Figure 6. ‘The Biggest Shoe Establishment in the Monarchy’ Display Advertisement, 1897 8 9 10 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1897) 14 November, p. 17, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi 11 12 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18971114&seite=17&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 13 14 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 15 16 17 18 19 Figure 7. ‘Paprika Schlesinger’ Display Advertisement, 1897 20 21 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1897) 25 December, p. 21, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi 22 23 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18971225&seite=21&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 24 25 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 26 27 28 29 30 During his final years Schlesinger further increased his investment in advertising. He 31 32 adopted a new style of advertising in the Neue Freie Presse in 1898 consisting of full page 33 34 advertisements with blocks of text surrounded by blank space. The first of a series of 35 36 advertisements in this style appeared in the newspaper on 13 March ( Neue Freie Presse 37 38 39 1898a). The second advertisement in the series published on 20 March ( Neue Freie Presse 40 41 1898b) describes the colorful variety of shoes available in his store. Schlesinger proclaimed 42 43 they recalled the heyday of the Renaissance. This was followed by topical advertisements 44 45 entitled “The Election”; and “One Million Cyclists” ( Neue Freie Presse 1898c; 1898d). The 46 47 fifth advertisement entitled “The First Bulletin from the Theater of War” appeared on 24 48 49 50 April ( Neue Freie Presse 1898e), a translation of which is below. 51 4 52 The First Bulletin from the Theater of War 53 54 is awaited with the greatest expectations; the whole world is however united in advance 55 that victory is only there inevitable where the undeniable power of the Paprika comes 56 into effect. Those who know the unadulterated joys of a healthy stomach and feet with 57 58 59 60 15
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 16 of 42
1 2 3 well fitting shoes, will know with certainty in their hearts of victory, that the only Road 4 to Rome is that through the Wallfischgasse. 5 6 He, who has eaten at the Table of the Lord, will avoid earthly nourishment, and 7 he who has acquired Paprika and Shoes from Paprika Schlesinger will neither search 8 9 nor find satisfaction elsewhere. 10 11 True Viennese chic, elegance and solid taste in shoes and the excellent quality of 12 truly Hungarian Paprika remains the prerogative of the 13 14 Shoe Establishment and Paprika Niederlage of 15 16 Robert Schlesinger (Paprika Schlesinger), Vienna, Wallfischgasse 17 (Palais Todesco). 18 19 20 21 It created a storm of protest from anti Semitic Roman Catholic nationalist politicians in the 22 23 Austrian Parliament such as Dr. Aemilian Schöpfer of the Christian Social Party and Dr. Max 24 25 Kapferer of the Volkspartei who considered the religious references in the text of this 26 27 advertisement to be blasphemous (Tiroler Volksblatt, 1898a; Reichspost, 1898). As a result 28 29 30 the editor of the Neue Freie Presse , Karl Felix Kohler, was prosecuted for neglecting his duty 31 32 of care and Schlesinger for blasphemy under §303 of the Penal Code. Schlesinger claimed in 33 34 court he had not written the advertisement and had only looked at it fleetingly because he was 35 36 overburdened by work. He further claimed he had not understood the text but his employees 37 38 39 told him that it was a good play on words. He observed people would need to take him for a 40 41 fool, if he, whose employees were 90 per cent Christians, deliberately intended to disparage 42 43 the Roman Catholic Church. Schlesinger also observed that he believed that advertising was 44 45 the most important phenomenon of modern industry. Kohler’s lawyer in his defense of his 46 47 client drew a parallel with the Dreyfus Affair in France observing this prosecution was the 48 49 50 result of a similar upsurge in anti Semitism in Austria. The jury found them guilty of both 51 52 charges by a margin of nine to three. Kohler was fined 50 florint while Schlesinger was 53 54 sentenced to one month’s imprisonment with hard labor (Reichspost, 1898; Neues Wiener 55 56 Journal , 1898; Bozner Zeitung, 1898; Tiroler Volksblatt, 1898b). 57 58 59 60 16
JournalPage 17 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 The Viennese satirist Karl Kraus believed the verdict was “undeserved” (Die Fackel, 4 5 1899a, p. 21), and also claimed that Schlesinger had “tried to become a martyr of liberalism” 6 7 (Die Fackel, 1901a, p. 20). Kraus later placed this advertisement in the context of the 8 9 10 political struggle against clericalism and the national struggle against Ultramontanism (Die 11 12 Fackel, 1901b, p. 11). Schlesinger seems an unlikely seeker of martyrdom, notwithstanding 13 14 his earlier advertisement depicting him astride the spire of St. Stephen’s Cathedral. 15 16 Nonetheless it is worth noting that in the year previous to this episode, the anti Semitic leader 17 18 19 of the populist Christian Socialists, Karl Lueger, had finally been allowed to assume office as 20 21 Mayor of Vienna, his party having won the municipal elections in 1895. Lueger was 22 23 supported by the Roman Catholic Church, including Pope Leo XIII. For two years the 24 25 Emperor and his prime minister had prevented Lueger from taking office (Geehr, 1990, pp. 26 27 87 99). The reaction to this advertisement has echoes of the January 2015 terrorist attack on 28 29 30 Charlie Hebdo in Paris ( Financial Times , 2015), although Kraus reported that in the 1898 31 32 Paprika Schlesinger case the editor claimed in court that his newspaper did not read the 33 34 advertising copy before accepting it for publication. However, the satirist observed that 35 36 Kohler had testified under oath in a previous civil court case that the editorial team checked 37 38 39 every advertisement for its suitability to appear in their newspaper (Die Fackel, 1900a, p. 32). 40 41 The Neue Freie Presse continued to publish Paprika Schlesinger advertisements both 42 43 during and after the legal proceedings. The gnomes advertisement reappeared during the 44 45 Christmas 1898 season ( Neue Freie Presse 1898g) with some added dense text at the bottom. 46 47 A new smaller advertisement appeared the Christmas Day issue ( Neue Freie Presse ). 48 49 50 Unusually for the last years of Schlesinger’s life it advertised tinned paprika rather than 51 52 shoes. It shows Schlesinger standing on a horse drawn float standing on top of a mountain of 53 54 paprika pepper plants. Mustachioed Hungarian men can also be seen behind the float. 55 56 Unlike the St. Stephen’s spire advertisement this one may have been based on an actual 57 58 59 60 17
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 18 of 42
1 2 3 event. Karl Kraus makes reference to a Paprika Schlesinger automobile appearing in a 4 5 festival parade in Vienna in May of the following year. The Paprika Schlesinger automobile 6 7 also appeared in a parade in Berlin in July and following year at the Exposition Universelle in 8 9 10 Paris (Die Fackel, 1899b, p. 4; Neue Freie Presse 1899a; Neues Wiener Journal , 1899a; 11 12 Wiener Caricaturen, 1899) . Taking part in festival parades was another type of marketing 13 14 that had been used by Robert Schlesinger for several years to promote Paprika Schlesinger. 15 16 For example, a float with the patriotic theme “Long Live the Habsburgs” and decorated with 17 18 19 paprika peppers had been part of the Flower Parade in the German spa town of Baden Baden 20 21 in August 1889 ( Die Presse ,1889). An even earlier example from 1884 has also been 22 23 referred to above. 24 25 During the summer of 1899 Schlesinger introduced his final advertising innovation – 26 27 the use of verse. In July Schlesinger placed a full page advertisement in the Neue Freie 28 29 30 Presse (1899b) entitled “Once upon a time... A modern fairy tale.” This fairy tale using both 31 32 prose and verse was based around the Paprika Schlesinger store on Wallfischgasse. Further 33 34 full page advertisements with verse appeared in July and August including “Doomsday” as 35 36 can be seen in Figure 8. A long text discussed predictions the world was about to end 37 38 39 together with a Paprika Schlesinger themed poem about Doomsday (Neue Freie Presse 40 41 1899c). While verse was an innovation in Austrian advertising Clare Rose (2011, pp. 39 50) 42 43 has found examples of the use of both verse and ballads in 19 th century British clothing 44 45 advertising. 46 47 Schlesinger’s advertising was not universally well received in Austria Hungary. For 48 49 5 50 example, Karl Kraus opposed to the Manchester Liberalism of the Neue Freie Presse ’s 51 52 Moritz Benedict (Die Fackel, 1899b, pp. 12 15) and the associated commercial culture such 53 54 as newspaper advertising. Paprika Schlesinger, as one of Vienna’s most heavily advertised 55 56 and marketed brands, was often the target of his disdain (Die Fackel, 1901a, pp. 19, 21 22). 57 58 59 60 18
JournalPage 19 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 INSERT Figure 8 Here 4 5 Figure 8. ‘Doomsday’ Display Advertisement, 1899 6 7 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1899) 15 August, p. 16, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi 8 9 10 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18990815&seite=16&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 11 12 2016), with permission of ANNO/Austrian National Library. 13 14 15 16 Paprika Schlesinger under the Curatorship of Julius Paul 17 18 19 At the end of September 1899 a curator was appointed for Schlesinger’s business because he 20 21 was suffering from an unspecified mental illness which it was later reported had required him 22 23 to be placed in a sanatorium. This was possibly the result of his imprisonment the previous 24 25 year ( Neue Freie Presse 1899e; Neues Wiener Journal, 1899b). The curator, Julius Paul, 6 26 27 was the son of Schlesinger’s sister Caroline (Talmore, 2015e). During his curatorship Paul 28 29 30 carried on the business in the spirit of his uncle. Under Paul Paprika Schlesinger adopted a 31 32 new type of advertising ( Neue Freie Presse 1899d) which focused on providing information 33 34 about the shoes for sale. Paul also placed Paprika Schlesinger’s first and only advertisement 35 36 which referred to the fact the Vienna store was in the vicinity of the Opera House ( Neue 37 38 39 Freie Presse 1899f). In 1900 Paul adopted a new advertising slogan proclaiming that Paprika 40 41 Schlesinger was the “first, biggest footwear establishment” ( Neue Freie Presse 1900a). 42 43 Paul also built on his uncle’s advertising innovation from the summer of the previous 44 45 year. He placed a Christmas hymn with the theme “Shoe Workshops in History” several 46 47 times in the Neue Freie Presse including on 25 November (1900b). Paprika Schlesinger 48 49 50 placed a much longer poem in the same style entitled “Paprika Schlesinger’s Christmas 51 52 Dream!” in the Christmas Day issue of the Neue Freie Presse (1900c). The Paprika 53 54 Schlesinger poem did not escape the attention of Karl Kraus, who mockingly suggested it 55 56 was inspired by the poetry of Heinrich Heine (Die Fackel, 1900b, p. 10). It was placed on the 57 58 59 60 19
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 20 of 42
1 2 3 same page as a novella by Arthur Schnitzler and, according to Kraus, Paprika Schlesinger 4 5 complained to the Neue Freie Presse that the novella spoiled the mood of the poem. Paul felt 6 7 the diatribes by Schnitzler against the military had been embarrassing to his uncle’s firm (Die 8 9 10 Fackel, 1900c, p. 26). During the same year Paul commissioned an advertising poster by the 11 12 Viennese artist Giulio Angelo Liberali. The poster was displayed on advertising columns 13 14 (known as Litfaßsäule after the German Ernst Litfaβ who invented them in 1854 (Heathcote 15 16 2015, p. H17) located on the streets of Vienna. It proclaimed “Paprika Schlesinger: 17 18 19 Recognized as the Best Shoe Brand.” This poster was part of a European advertising fashion, 20 21 the Art Nouveau adverting poster. Schwarzkopf (2007, p. 35) notes that the origin of this 22 23 type of poster which combined art and individual creativity with the methods of modern mass 24 25 marketing was metropolitan Europe: Paris, London, Berlin, and Vienna. 26 27 The final year of Schlesinger’s life saw further creative advertising. This included a 28 29 30 new advertisement in the form of a shoe which first appeared on 14 October ( Neue Freie 31 32 Presse 1901a), as can be seen in Figure 24. Paul also employed several different versions of 33 34 text only advertisements including one published on New Year’s Day 1902 in the Neue Freie 35 36 Presse (1902a). In a different version of text only advertising Paul revived the topical 37 38 39 approach previously used in 1898, of which the last one published before Schlesinger’s death 40 41 appeared in the 16 February issue of the Neue Freie Presse (1902b). This advertisement 42 43 claimed that a local shoe seller was trying to plagiarize Paprika Schlesinger’s ideas by 44 45 copying one of the business’s advertisements. It further claimed “by doing so, he is 46 47 documenting what is already widely known, namely, that we are the leaders in our line of 48 49 50 business and have been used for decades to our new ideas being copied.” The evidence 51 52 provided by the footwear advertisements placed by competitors in the Neue Freie Presse 53 54 suggests this latter claim has some validity. Paul also commissioned the artist Raphael 55 56 Kirchner to create a painting for an advertising postcard. Schwarzkopf (2007, p. 33) notes 57 58 59 60 20
JournalPage 21 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 that the refinement of the advertising postcard is associated with “continental European 4 5 design movements such as the Wiener Werkstätte 7 which further developed the modern style 6 7 of the applied art of painting advertising postcards.” Kirchner specialized in portraits of 8 9 10 scantily clad women and disseminated his work in the format of postcards (Dell’Aquila and 11 8 12 Dell’Aquila, 1996, pp. 10 24). His Paprika Schlesinger postcard can be seen in Figure 9. A 13 14 line drawing version was also published twice in the Neue Freie Presse (1902c). 15 16 INSERT Figure 9 Here 17 18 19 Figure 9. Paprika Schlesinger Advertising Postcard (c.1902) 20 21 Source: With permission of Professor Robert A. Shaw. 22 23 24 Schlesinger died on 19 April 1902 (Tamore, 2015a; Neue Freie Presse , 1902d) at the 25 26 age of 49. His business was at the height of its success. Paul appears to have remained 27 28 29 curator for a couple of years because Schlesinger’s son Walter (1890 1964) was still a minor 30 31 when his father died. Paul continued advertising in the Neue Freie Presse and gave primacy 32 33 to the Paprika Schlesinger brand name removing Robert Schlesinger’s name from the 34 35 advertisements ( Neue Freie Presse 1902e). The brand name logo in this advertisement was 36 37 extracted from the Christmas Day 1897 advertisement. However, Paul decided against using 38 39 40 this logo in subsequent advertisements. 41 42 43 44 Paprika Schlesinger 1902-1931 45 46 Robert Schlesinger’s widow Anna 9 remarried in 1905 ( Neue Freie Presse 1905a). Her 47 48 10 49 second husband, Moritz Schrecker, had a shoe industry background like her first one ( Die 50 51 Presse , 1888). Schrecker had already become manager of Paprika Schlesinger the previous 52 53 year (Neues Wiener Tagblatt, 1904). He also took over guardianship of Walter Schlesinger 54 55 and his two sisters from Paul in 1906 (Neues Wiener Tagblatt, 1906; Wiener Zeitung, 1906). 56 57 58 Walter Schlesinger became co manager of the business with his step father and mother at the 59 60 21
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 22 of 42
1 2 3 age of 21 in 1911 ( Neue Freie Presse 1914b). Schrecker adopted Paprika Schlesinger as a 4 5 trade mark, as can be seen on the inside of the shoes advertisements published in the Neue 6 7 Freie Presse (1907b). He may have been responsible for a decision to seek sales agreements 8 9 10 with foreign shoe manufacturing and retailing businesses. The first of these agreements was 11 12 with Cerf & Bielshowsky, a boot manufacturer based in Erfurt, Germany. The company had 13 14 been founded in 1885 by Emil Bielshowsky and Max Cerf as an orthopedic boot 15 16 manufacturer, hence their brand name “Dr. Diehl” ( Neue Freie Presse 1910a; School Portal 17 18 19 Thuringia 2015). This agreement was followed by one with the luxury footwear 20 21 manufacturer and retailer F. Pinet of Paris referred to earlier. Etablissement Robert 22 23 Schlesinger secured the sales rights for Austria Hungary and the Balkan States ( Neue Freie 24 25 Presse 1911). The founder of F. Pinet, François Pinet, had died in 1897. His business was 26 27 subsequently acquired by French Jewish entrepreneur Gaston Monteux, who had founded the 28 29 th 30 shoe manufacturing and chain store business, Chaussures Raoul, in 1888. In the early 20 31 32 century Monteux combined his initial business with a number of other firms, including, F. 33 34 Pinet, to form a multinational combine (Moride, 1913, pp. 74, 129, 175 176; BFDC 1920, p. 35 36 24; La Revue Limousine, 1927; L’Humanité, 1928; Foschini, 2010, pp. 14 15; Gille, 2011, 37 38 39 pp. 133 137). In 1913 the Schlesingers signed another sales agreement with the boot 40 41 manufacturers Crockett & Jones of Northampton, England ( Neue Freie Presse 1913a). This 42 43 was a relatively small firm. The obituary of one of the firm’s founder’s, Sir James Crockett, 44 45 notes that an order received by the firm for five or six hundred pairs of boots was enough to 46 47 create a sensation in Northampton ( Northampton Mercury , 1931). 48 49 50 The outbreak of World War I marked what, in retrospect, was the beginning of a long 51 52 period of decline for Etablissement Robert Schlesinger . The business had ceased advertising 53 54 in the Neue Freie Presse during 1913. The Marienbad store was closed in 1915 (Anon., 1916, 55 56 p. 1318). The peace treaty that concluded the war for Austria Hungary placed the Carlsbad 57 58 59 60 22
JournalPage 23 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 store in the new state of Czechoslovakia and the Budapest store in the independent state of 4 5 Hungary. The Schlesinger family was reduced to the original store at 2 Wallfischgasse. The 6 7 disintegration of the Austro Hungarian Empire, as a result of its defeat in World War I, 8 9 10 fatally undermined the business model of Viennese luxury retailers such as Paprika 11 12 Schlesinger. The economy of the new Austrian Republic was too small and poor to sustain 13 14 the pre war volume of sales of luxury shoes. Mass market shoe retailers such as Salamander, 15 16 which had opened several branches in Vienna before World War I ( Neue Freie Presse 1907a; 17 18 19 1913b; Schmitt 1999, pp. xx xx), were better able to respond to the new economic 20 21 environment. 22 23 In 1927 Anna Schrecker and her son Walter formed a partnership with F. Pinet and 24 25 opened a new branch of the Paris business at 36 Kärntnerstrasse. F. Pinet, as noted above, 26 27 was part of the Monteux combine. This particular division of the combine had already 28 29 30 become multinational with the opening of a store in London’s exclusive New Bond Street in 31 11 32 1907 (The Times 1907). Marcel Monteux, the son of the founder of the Monteux combine, 33 34 oversaw the opening of Pinet stores in other promising markets. In addition to the 35 36 partnership with the Schlesinger family in Vienna, new stores were opened in Berlin, New 37 38 39 York, and Amsterdam ( New York Sun , 1930a; 1930b; Het Vaderland, 1930a; 1930b). The 40 41 Schlesingers sold the Etablissement Robert Schlesinger Wallfischgasse store to Phineas 42 43 Cohen (Anon., 1931, p.1243). The Etablissement Robert Schlesinger store is not listed in the 44 45 Vienna city directory after 1932 (Anon. 1932, p. 450) which would suggest that it was a 46 47 casualty of the Great Depression of the 1930s. Anna Schrecker and Walter Schlesinger 48 49 50 reacquired the brand names “Robert Schlesinger” and “Paprika Schlesinger”, although given 51 52 their commitment to the F. Pinet Kärntnerstrasse store they did not revive Etablissement 53 54 Robert Schlesinger as a business (Anon., 1938, pp. 1298, 1767 1768). 55 56 57 58 59 60 23
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 24 of 42
1 2 3 The Anschluss of March 1938 marked the closing chapter in the history of the 4 5 Schlesinger family business. Since 1927 the ownership of the French partner business had 6 7 changed twice. In January 1930 the Monteux combine was acquired by another Jewish 8 9 10 owned combine, Nathan Ehrlich’s Chaussures Ehrlich Frerés. In 1934 Chaussures Ehrlich 11 12 Frerés became a causality of the aftermath of the Stavisky financial and political scandal. 13 14 The combine was acquired by another Jewish owned combine, Societe Anonyme Française 15 16 de Gerance, which was formed in the summer of 1934 (Gille, 2011, p. 137; Journal des 17 18 19 Chemins de Fer, 1930; Progrès de la Cordonnerie: Bulletin Périodique, 1934; L’Echo 20 21 d’Alger, 1934). The union of Austria and Germany in 1938 resulted in the Aryanization of 22 23 the Kärntnerstrasse store. Walter Schlesinger and his mother found refuge in Oran, Algeria. 24 25 Schlesinger’s divorced wife, Lily Karoline Schlesinger, found work in Britain as a domestic 26 27 servant and her son Robert secured a place on a Kindertransport and arrived in Britain a few 28 29 30 weeks after his mother. After the war the Austrian state declined to restore to Walter 31 32 Schlesinger and his French partner the Kärntnerstrasse store and instead awarded them 33 34 derisory compensation which amounted to a small fraction of the true value of the business 35 36 (Shaw, 2015). 37 38 39 40 41 Conclusion 42 43 When Robert Schlesinger established his Wallfischgasse store in 1879 he was a first mover in 44 45 Austro Hungarian luxury shoe retailing. He believed that marketing and advertising was 46 47 necessary to develop his business and later his Paprika Schlesinger brand. But there were 48 49 50 almost no exemplars of luxury shoe advertising and marketing apart from that of F. Pinet of 51 52 Paris. But Pinet’s marketing and advertising was unimaginative (Gille, 2011). An example 53 54 of a Pinet advertisement ( Illustrated London News , 1887) can be seen in Figure 10. So 55 56 Schlesinger had to learn how to do marketing and advertising himself. This resulted in what 57 58 59 60 24
JournalPage 25 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 was often very innovative marketing and advertising, especially at the height of his success 4 5 during the last years of his life. It can be argued that Schlesinger’s marketing was ahead of 6 7 its time as was the newspaper advertising. As has been shown above, his development of a 8 9 10 personal brand, Paprika Schlesinger, has many similarities with that of the Virgin brand of 11 12 20th and 21st century British entrepreneur, Richard Branson. Similarly Schlesinger’s eclectic 13 14 newspaper advertising in the period from 1896 onwards foresaw later developments in 20th 15 16 century advertising such as the use of surreal scenarios. It further contributed to the already 17 18 19 high level of brand recognition for Robert Schlesinger and Paprika Schlesinger. The lack of 20 21 surviving business records makes it impossible to assess the effectiveness of Schlesinger’s 22 23 marketing and advertising in terms of sales and profit generation. However, Schlesinger’s 24 25 business was successful enough to be able to expand through the creation of branch stores in 26 27 Budapest and a number of Austrian spa resorts. Furthermore his business proved to be 28 29 30 sustainable after his death and remained a major European luxury shoe retailer until the 31 32 defeat of Austria Hungary in World War I. 33 34 INSERT Figure 10 Here 35 36 Figure 10. F. Pinet Classified Advertisement, 1887 37 38 39 Source: Illustrated London News (1887) 24 December, p. 15, with permission of ILN Ltd. 40 41 42 43 Acknowledgments 44 45 Earlier versions of this article were presented as papers at the CHARM 2015 Conference in 46 47 Long Beach, California, 28 31 May 2015, and the CHORD Annual Conference at the 48 49 50 University of Wolverhampton, 10 September 2015. The author would like to thank the 51 52 participants at both conferences for their comments on the papers. I would also like to thank 53 54 Hildegard Norton Uhl for translating some of the German languages source material. 55 56 Notes 57 58 59 60 25
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 26 of 42
1 2 3 1 According to family historian, Rina Talmore, he was born on 29 December 1853. 4 2 Rina Talmore records that Jakob Schlesinger died on 3 December 1863 in Szeged aged 5 approximated 62. 6 3 Rina Talmore records Josefine Schlesinger died on 25 May 1894 in Szeged aged 7 approximately 78. So it seems plausible she took charge of her husband’s business after his 8 9 death in 1863. 4 Translated by Prof. Robert A. Shaw. 10 5 11 Manchester Liberals believe in a free market economy and consequently advertising. 6 12 Wolf Erich Eckstein records Julius Paul was born in the then Hungarian city of Temesvár 13 on 8 March 1867 the son of Albert Paul and Caroline Schlesinger. In 1907 he assumed 14 control of his father’s touch paper and cigarette paper goods business two years after his 15 death. He died of tuberculous on 5 January 1938. (Eckstein 2015; Neue Freie Presse 1905b; 16 Neues Wiener Tagblatt 1907.) 17 7 The Wiener Werkstätte was founded in 1903 after Schlesinger’s death (Wagener 1989/1990, 18 p. 31.) 19 8 20 Dell’Aquila and Dell’Aquila (1996, p. 85) list this postcard as having been produced in 21 1900. But the line version did not appear in the Neue Freie Presse (1902c) until 1902. 9 22 Rina Talmore records Anna Schlesinger Schrecker (neé Chiger) was born in Brody, Galicia, 23 on 26 March 1863. She married Robert Schlesinger on 16 August 1885 in Vienna. She died 24 a refugee in Oran, Algeria, during 1939. 25 10 He was born in Goltsch Jenikau on 19 February 1863 and died in Vienna on 7 March 1937 26 (Shaw 2009). 27 11 Marcel Monteux was born in Limoges on 24 April 1881. He was deported to Auschwitz 28 29 Birkenau on 31 July 1944 where he was murdered (Yad Vashem 2015). 30 31 32 References 33 34 Allgemeine Ősterreichische Gerichts Zeitung (1864), ‘Concurse’, 15 March, p. 98. 35 Anon (1875) Lehmann’s Allgemeine Wohnungs Anzeiger nebst Handels und Gewerbe 36 Adreβbuch für die f.f. Reichshaupt und Residenzstadt Wien und Umgebung 1875 . Vienna: 37 Alfred Hölder. 38 39 Anon. (1878) Lehmann’s Allgemeine Wohnungs Anzeiger nebst Handels und Gewerbe 40 Adreβbuch für die f.f. Reichshaupt und Residenzstadt Wien und Umgebung 1878 . Vienna: 41 Alfred Hölder. 42 Anon. (1881) Verzeichniss der Mitglieder des Gremiums der Wiener Kaufmannschaft nach 43 dem Stande vom Monat August 1881. Vienna: Verlag des Gremiums der Wiener 44 Kaufmannschaft. 45 Anon. (1914) Ein Gedenkblatt der “Neuen Freien Presse: Fünfzig Jahre nach ihrer 46 Gründung: 1864 1914. Vienna: Druckerei der “Neuen Freien Presse: Carl Herrmann. 47 Anon. (1916) Lehmann’s Allgemeine Wohnungs Anzeiger nebst Handels und Gewerbe 48 49 Adreβbuch für die f.f. Reichshaupt und Residenzstadt Wien und Umgebung 1916 . Vienna: 50 Alfred Hölder. 51 Anon. (1931) Industrie Compass: Österreich, Čechoslowakei, Jugoslavien, Ungarn. Vienna: 52 Compassverlag. 53 Anon. (1932) Wiener Adreβbuch: Lehmanns Wohnungsanzeiger 1932. Vienna: 54 Ősterrreicische Anzeiger Gesellschaft A.G. 55 Anon. (1938) AdressBuch von Oesterreich für Industrie, Handel, Gewerbe und 56 Landwirtschaft: 12. Ausgabe 1938. Vienna: Verlag “Herold” Vereinigte Anzeigen 57 Gesellschaft M.B.H. 58 59 60 26
JournalPage 27 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Bedoire, F. (2004) The Jewish Contribution to Modern Architecture: 1830 1930. Jersey City, 4 NJ: KTAV Publishing House Inc. 5 Benson, J. (1994) The Rise of the Consumer Society in Britain, 1880 1980 . London: 6 Longman. 7 Berliner Tageblatt: Morgen Ausgabe (1885), ‘Ein neuentdeckter Stern’, 13 March, p. 5. 8 9 Berliner Tageblatt: Abend Ausgabe (1886), ‘Die Kleine Planetennoth’, 16 April, pp. 1 2. 10 Berliner Tageblatt: Morgen Ausgabe (1900), ‘Das Attentat in Brüssel’, 11 April, p. 6. 11 Bozner Zeitung (1896), ‘Die theuersten Ballschuhe”, 21 January, p. 1. 12 Bozner Zeitung (1898), ‘Der verurteilte Paprika Schlesinger’, 2 November, p. 3. 13 Boyer, J.W. (1981) Political Radicalism in Late Imperial Vienna: Origins of the Christian 14 Social Movement, 1848 1897. Chicago: University of Chicago Press. 15 British Broadcasting Corporation (BBC) (1990) Design Classics: Shell Logo . Broadcast on 16 10 July. 17 Cowen, J. (1929) ‘My Conversion to Zionism: Reminiscences of First Meetings with Herzl in 18 19 England and Elsewhere’ in M.W. Weisgal (Ed.) Theodor Herzl: A Memorial . New York: 20 New Palestine. 21 Crafts, N.F.R. (1984) ‘Patterns of Development in Nineteenth Century Europe’, Oxford 22 Economic Papers , 36, 3, pp. 438 458. 23 Die Bombe (1885), ‘Der Paprika Schlesinger’, 11 January, pp. 1 2. 24 Die Bombe (1889), ‘Aus dem Tagebuche des Paprika Schlesinger’, 24 November, p. 4. 25 Die Bombe (1894), ‘Aus dem Tagebuche des Paprika Schlesinger’, 18 March, p. 3. 26 Die Fackel (1899a), 1, Early April. 27 Die Fackel (1899b), 4, Early May. 28 29 Die Fackel (1900a), 57, Late October. 30 Die Fackel (1900b), 60, Late November. 31 Die Fackel (1900c), 63, Late December. 32 Die Fackel (1901), 79, Early June. 33 Die Presse (1889), ‘Blumencorso in Baden’, 16 August, p. 2. 34 Die Presse: Abendblatt (1888), ‘Aus dem Gerichtssaale’, 29 September, p. 3. 35 Die Presse (2015) Die Neue Freie Presse: Vom Weltblatt der Donaumonarchie bis zum 36 Anschluss Ősterreichs ans Deutsche Reich. 37 http://diepresse.com/unternehmen/geschichte/9835/ (Accessed on 9 March 2015). 38 39 Dell’Aquila, A. and Dell’Aquila, P. (1996) Raphael Kirchner and his Postcards. Bari: Mario 40 Adda Editore. 41 Der Burggräfler (1894), ‘Ein neues Schuhwarengeschäft’, 18 August, p. 6. 42 Der Deutsche Correspondent [Baltimore, Maryland] (1885), ‘Der Paprika Stern’, 11 April, p. 43 4. 44 Der Deutsche Correspondent [Baltimore, Maryland] (1893), ‘Der “Paprika Schlesinger”’, 19 45 May, p. 4. 46 Eckstein, W. E. (2015), GENI entry on Julius Paul. http://www.geni.com/people/Julius 47 Paul/6000000022737577907 (Accessed on 21 August 2015) 48 49 Font, L.M. (2012), ‘International couture: The opportunities and challenges of expansion, 50 1880 1920’, Business History , 54, 1, pp. 30 47. 51 Foschini, L. (2010) Proust’s Overcoat: The True Story of One Man’s Passion for All Things 52 Proust. London: Portobello Books. 53 Financial Times (2015), ‘An irreverent French institution’, 8 January, p. 3. 54 Gille, X. (2011) François Pinet: Bottier des élégantes, 1817 1897 . Chemillé sur Indrois: 55 Éditions Hugues de Chivré. 56 Gordon, S. (2015), ‘Richard Branson’ in The Fifty Leading Business Pioneers . London: FT. 57 Grunwald, M. (1936) Vienna . Philadelphia: Jewish Publication Society of America. 58 59 60 27
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 28 of 42
1 2 3 Habig, B. (2011) Barbara Habig: Company’s History. http://putyourhaton.com/history.php 4 (Accessed on 8 July 2016) 5 Handy, M.P. (Ed.) (1893) The Official Directory of the World’s Columbian Exposition, May 6 1st to October 30 th , 1893: A Reference Book. Chicago: W.B. Conkey Company. 7 Heathcote, E. (2015), ‘Words on the street’, Financial Times , 17 October, p. H17. 8 9 Het Vaderland (1930a), ‘Advertisement’, 24 May, p. 3. 10 Het Vaderland (1930b), ‘Onze Stad Wordt Met Den Dag Mooier’, 1 June, p. 2. 11 Houze, R. (2015) Textiles, Fashion, and Design Reform in Austria Hungary Before the First 12 World War: Principles of Dress. Farnham: Ashgate. 13 Illustrated London News (1887), ‘Advertisement’, 24 December, p. 15. 14 Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902), ‘Die Kärntnerstraβe’, 6 April, p. 8. 15 Ischler Cur Liste (1899), ‘30 August: Ischler Fremden Liste’, 31 August, p. 11. 16 Jonker, J. and van Zanden (2007) From Challenger to Joint Industry Leader, 1890 1939: A 17 History of Royal Dutch Shell . Oxford: Oxford University Press. 18 19 Journal des Chemins de Fer (1930), ‘Chaussures Ehrlich Frerés’, 5 February, p. 5. 20 Jullian, P. (1982) La Belle Époque. New York: The Metropolitan Museum of Art. 21 Kelly, R.J. (1927) ‘The Right Use of the Unusual: Good Illustration is the First Essential to 22 Good Display’, The Footwear Organiser and Shoe and Leather Trades Export Journal , 23 18, 6, p. 451. 24 Laibacher Zeitung (1885), ‘Das Inserat am Himmel’, 14 March, p.3. 25 La Nouvelle Revue (1907), ‘Revue Financière’, 15 February, p. 575. 26 La Revue Limousine (1927), ‘Nécrologie’, 15 December, p. 3. 27 L’Echo d’Alger (1934), ‘Dix importantes sociétés françaises de chaussures en faillites’, 22 28 29 February, p. 3. 30 Legge, E. (1913) More About King Edward. London: Eveleigh Nash. 31 Leonardi, A. (2010) ‘Entrepreneurial mobility in the development of the Austrian Kurorte in 32 the nineteenth century’, Journal of Tourism History , 2, 2, pp. 99 116. 33 L’Humanité (1928), ‘Notes Ėconomiques: Le Trust de la Chaussure’, 7 December, p. 4. 34 Lloyd’s Weekly Newspaper (1899), ‘The Prince of Wales at Marienbad’, 13 August, p. 6. 35 Meraner Zeitung (1896), ‘Advertisement’, 30 October, p. 7. 36 Moride, P. (1913) Le Maisons a Succursales Multiples en France a L’Étranger. Paris: 37 Librarie Félix Alcan. 38 39 Moos, R. (2010) Journey of Hope and Despair: I: Rise and Fall Memoirs of Rudolf Moos . 40 Dartford: Xlibris. 41 Neue Freie Presse (1878), ‘Advertisement’, 20 October, p. 16. 42 Neue Freie Presse (1879a), ‘Advertisement’, 28 September, p. 16. 43 Neue Freie Presse (1879b), ‘Advertisement’, 7 December, p. 25. 44 Neue Freie Presse (1880), ‘Advertisements’, 25 December, p. 17. 45 Neue Freie Presse (1881), ‘Advertisement’, 18 December, p. 22. 46 Neue Freie Presse (1893), ‘Advertisement’, 22 October, p. 16. 47 Neue Freie Presse (1895), ‘Frühjahrs Specialitäten’, 8 May, p. 5. 48 49 Neue Freie Presse (1896), ‘Advertisement’, 6 December, p. 21. 50 Neue Freie Presse (1897a), ‘Zum ersten Schnee’, 24 January, p. 6. 51 Neue Freie Presse (1897b), ‘Advertisement’, 31 October, p. 30. 52 Neue Freie Presse (1897c), ‘Advertisement’, 14 November, p. 17. 53 Neue Freie Presse (1897d), ‘Advertisement’, 25 December, p. 21. 54 Neue Freie Presse (1898a), ‘Advertisement’, 13 March, p. 18. 55 Neue Freie Presse (1898b), ‘Advertisement’, 20 March, p. 17. 56 Neue Freie Presse (1898c), ‘Advertisement’, 3 April, p. 17. 57 Neue Freie Presse (1898d), ‘Advertisement’, 10 April, p. 19. 58 59 60 28
JournalPage 29 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 Neue Freie Presse (1898e), ‘Advertisement’, 24 April, p. 17. 4 Neue Freie Presse (1898f), ‘Advertisement’, 8 May, p. 17. 5 Neue Freie Presse (1898g), ‘Advertisement’, 14 December, p. 18. 6 Neue Freie Presse (1898h), ‘Advertisement’, 25 December, p. 30. 7 Neue Freie Presse (1899a), ‘Die Verschiebung des Festcorsos und Frühlingsfestes in der 8 9 Rotunde’, 27 April, p. 6. 10 Neue Freie Presse (1899b), ‘Advertisement’, 23 July, p. 21. 11 Neue Freie Presse (1899c), ‘Advertisement’, 15 August, p. 16. 12 Neue Freie Presse (1899d), ‘Advertisement’, 1 October, p. 28. 13 Neue Freie Presse (1899e), ‘Am 29. September 1899: Im Register für Einzelfirmen’, 8 14 October, p. 32. 15 Neue Freie Presse (1899f), ‘Advertisement’, 20 October, p. 16. 16 Neue Freie Presse (1900a), ‘Advertisement’, 15 April, p. 42. 17 Neue Freie Presse (1900b), ‘Advertisement’, 25 November, p. 26. 18 19 Neue Freie Presse (1900c), ‘Advertisement’, 25 December, p. 34. 20 Neue Freie Presse (1901), ‘Advertisement’, 13 October, p. 34. 21 Neue Freie Presse (1902a), ‘Advertisement’, 1 January, p. 21. 22 Neue Freie Presse (1902b), ‘Advertisement’, 16 February, p. 21. 23 Neue Freie Presse (1902c), ‘Advertisement’, 23 March, p. 27. 24 Neue Freie Presse (1902d), ‘Death Notice’, 20 April, p. 30. 25 Neue Freie Presse (1902e), ‘Advertisement’, 19 October, p. 45. 26 Neue Freie Presse (1905a), ‘Notice of Death of Jannette Chiger’, p. 18. 27 Neue Freie Presse (1905b), ‘Notice of Death of Albert Paul’, p. 17. 28 29 Neue Freie Presse (1907a), ‘Advertisement’, 7 December, p. 30. 30 Neue Freie Presse (1907b), ‘Advertisement’, 22 December, p. 36. 31 Neue Freie Presse (1910a), ‘Advertisement’, 25 September, p. 35. 32 Neue Freie Presse (1910b), ‘Advertisement’, 18 December, p. 54. 33 Neue Freie Presse (1911), ‘Advertisement’, 1 October, p. 35. 34 Neue Freie Presse (1913a), ‘Advertisement’, 1 June, p. 37. 35 Neue Freie Presse (1913b), ‘Advertisement’, 25 December, p. 51. 36 Neue Freie Presse (1914a), ‘Firmaprotokollierungen’, 15 April, p. 26. 37 Neue Freie Presse (1914b), ‘Ein Gedenkblatt der “Neuen Freien Presse”: 1864 1914: Fünfzig 38 39 Jahre inhrer Gründung’, 30 August, pp. 127 142. 40 Neues Wiener Journal (1898), ‘Gerichtssaal: Das Inserat des Paprika Schlesinger’, 28 41 October, p. 7. 42 Neues Wiener Journal (1899a), ‘Groβer Festcorso und Frühlingsfest’, 11 May, p. 6. 43 Neues Wiener Journal (1899b), ‘Robert Schlesinger unter Curatel’, 3 December, p. 8. 44 Neues Weiner Tagblatt (1904), ‘Tagesbericht’, 16 March, p. 8. 45 Neues Weiner Tagblatt (1905), ‘Tagesbericht’, 9 January, p. 9. 46 New York Evening Post (1885), ‘Various Notes’, 3 April, p. 3. 47 New York Sun (1895), ‘Advertisement’, 8 December, p. 13. 48 th 49 New York Sun (1930a), ‘$85,000 Annual Rent in 5 Ave.’, 4 January, p. 28. 50 New York Sun (1930b), ‘Advertisement’, 25 September, p. 31. 51 Nikolsburger Wochenschrift (1890), ‘Huldigungs Bouquete’, 18 October, p. 1. 52 Northampton Mercury (1931), ‘Death of Sir James Crockett’, 13 February, p. 1. 53 Palmer, M. (2013) Clarks: Made to Last: The story of Britain’s best known shoe firm. 54 London: Profile. 55 Penny Illustrated Paper (1899), ‘How the World Wags’, 9 September, p. 148. 56 Pester Lloyd (1895), ‘Store Opens Today Advertisement’, 15 May, p. 8. 57 Pester Lloyd (1896), ‘Advertisement’, 22 November, p. 8. 58 59 60 29
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 30 of 42
1 2 3 Progrès de la Cordonnerie: Bulletin Périodique (1934), ‘Societe Anonyme Française de 4 Gerance’, July/August, p. 9. 5 Raab, H. (c.2002) Johann Palisa, the most successful visual discoverer of asteroids. Linz: 6 Self Published. http://www.astrometrica.at/papers/palisa.pdf (Accessed on 6 March 2015). 7 Reichspost (1898), ‘Aus dem Gerichtssaale: Ein blasphematorisches Inserat des “Paprika” 8 9 Schlesingers in der “Neuen Freien Presse”, 29 October, p. 6. 10 Revue Illustrée (1896), ‘Advertisement’, 1 October, n.p. 11 Rhodes, H. (1913), ‘Carlsbad the Cosmopolitan’, Harper’s Magazine, 127, 759, pp. 327 341 12 Rigasche Rundschau (1908), ‘Advertisement’, 14 May, p. 3. 13 Rose, C. (2010) Making, Selling and Wearing Boys’ Clothes in Late Victorian England . 14 Aldershot: Ashgate. 15 Rose, C. (Ed.) (2011) Clothing, Society and Culture in Nineteenth Century England: 1: 16 Buying and Selling Clothes . London: Pickering & Chatto. 17 School Portal Thuringia (2015) “Dr. Diehl Schuhfabrik Cerf & Bielschowsky” Erfurt und die 18 19 Beteiligung der Banken an der “Arisierung”. https://www.schulportal 20 thueringen.de/media/detail?tspi=4536 (Accessed on 10 March 2015). 21 Schwarzkopf, S. (2007) ‘Who Said “Americanization”? The Case of Twentieth Century 22 Advertising and Mass Marketing from an American Perspective’ in J. C. E. Gienow Hecht 23 (Ed.) Decentering America . New York and Oxford: Berghahn Books. 24 Shaw, R.A. (2009) Letter to Katharina Smola. 4 May. 25 Shaw, R.A. (2015a) A Life in Science Gifted by the Kindertransport: 13 th University of 26 Wolverhampton Holocaust Memorial Day Annual Lecture Delivered on 29 January 2015. 27 Schmitt, E. (1999) Kunst im Dienste der Industrie: Die Anfänge der “Werbe Kunst” am 28 29 Beispiel der Firma Salamander. St. Katharinen: Scripta Mercaturae. 30 Schmitt, E. (2005) ‘“Schatz, trag Salamander – sonst geh’n wir auseinander!”: Die Kunst, ein 31 Paar Schuhe reizvoll zu vermarkten’, Momente: Beiträge zur Landeskunde von Baden 32 Württemberg , 05, 2, pp. 16 18. 33 Talmore, R. (2015a) GENI entry on Robert Reuben Schlesinger. 34 http://www.geni.com/people/Robert Schlesinger/6000000022384394581 (Accessed on 28 35 February 2015). 36 Talmore, R. (2015b) GENI entry on Jacob Schlesinger http://www.geni.com/people/Jacob 37 Schlesinger/6000000022383316791 (Accessed on 28 February 2015) 38 39 Talmore, R. (2015c) GENI entry on Josefine Schlesinger. 40 http://www.geni.com/people/Josefine Schlesinger/6000000022384812133 (Accessed on 41 28 February 2015) 42 Talmore, R. (2015d) GENI entry on Anna Schlesinger Schrecker (Chiger). 43 http://www.geni.com/people/Anna Schlesinger Schrecker/6000000022385107961 44 (Accessed on 28 February 2015) 45 Talmore, R. (2015e) GENI entry on Caroline Paul (Schlesinger). 46 http://www.geni.com/people/Caroline Paul/6000000022832348318 (Accessed on 21 47 August 2015) 48 49 The Current (1885), 11 April, p. 286. 50 The Times (1907), ‘Advertisement’, 15 June, p. 1. 51 Tiroler Volksblatt (1898a), ‘Ein Frivoles Inserat’, 4 May, p. 3. 52 Tiroler Volksblatt (1898b), ‘Wegen Beleidigung der katholischen Kirche’, 5 November, p. 5. 53 United States Department of Commerce, Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce 54 (BFDC) (1913) Miscellaneous Series No.10: Foreign Publications for Advertising 55 American Goods. Washington, D.C.: Government Printing Office. 56 57 58 59 60 30
JournalPage 31 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 United States Department of Commerce, Bureau of Foreign and Domestic Commerce 4 (BFDC) (1920) Special Agents Series No.200: Hides and Leather in France. Washington, 5 D.C.: Government Printing Office. 6 Wagener, M.L. (1989/1990) ‘Fashion and Feminism in Fin de Siécle Vienna’, Woman’s Art 7 Journal , 10, 2, pp. 29 33. 8 9 Wiener Caricaturen (1899), ‘Pele Mele’, 23 July, p. 3. 10 Wiener Communal Kalendar und Städtisches Jahrbuch 1893 . Vienna: Verlag von Carl 11 Gerold’s Sohn. 12 Wiener Communal Kalendar und Städtisches Jahrbuch 1894 . Vienna: Verlag von Johann N. 13 Vernay. 14 Wiener Communal Kalendar und Städtisches Jahrbuch 1895 . Vienna: Verlag von Johann N. 15 Vernay. 16 Wiener Zeitung (1906), ‘Firma Protokollierungen’, 3 April, pp. 29 30. 17 Wiener Zeitung (1907), ‘Firmaprotokollierungen’, 3 November, p. 29. 18 19 Wrexham Advertiser (1885), ‘Notes on News’, 31 March, p. 7. 20 Yad Vashem (2015) The Central Database of Shoah Victims' Names. 21 http://www.yadvashem.org (Accessed on 12 March 2015). 22 Zadoff, M. (2012) Next Year in Marienbad: The Lost Worlds of Jewish Spa Culture . 23 Philadelphia: University of Pennsylvania Press. 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 31
Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 32 of 42
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 Figure 1
28 Schuhe: Etablissement Robert Schlesinger: Paprika 29 Source: Illustrirtes Wiener Extrablatt (1902) 6 April, p. 8, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=iwe& 30 datum=19020406&seite=8&zoom=33 (accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy ANNO/Austrian National 31 Library 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 JournalPage 33 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 Figure 2 30 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1879) 7 December, p. 25, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi- 31 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum 32 =18791207&seite=25&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy ANNO/Austrian National Library. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 34 of 42
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 Figure 3 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1893) 22 October, p. 16, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=nfp&datum 21 =18931022&seite=16&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy ANNO/Austrian National Library. 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 JournalPage 35 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 4 Source: Die Bombe (1885) 11 January, p. 1, 48 http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgicontent/anno?aid=bom&datum=18850111 49 &seite=1&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy ANNO/Austrian National Library. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 36 of 42
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 5 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1896) 6 December, p. 21, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi- 48 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18961206&seite=21&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy 49 ANNO/Austrian National Library. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 JournalPage 37 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 6 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1897) 14 November, p. 17, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi- 48 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18971114&seite=17&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy 49 ANNO/Austrian National Library. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 38 of 42
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 7 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1897) 25 December, p. 21, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi- 48 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18971225&seite=21&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy 49 ANNO/Austrian National Library. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 JournalPage 39 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 8 Source: Neue Freie Presse (1899) 15 August, p. 16, http://anno.onb.ac.at/cgi- 48 content/anno?aid=nfp&datum =18990815&seite=16&zoom=33 (Accessed 2 November 2016), Courtesy 49 ANNO/Austrian National Library. 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 40 of 42
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 Figure 9 Paprika Schlesinger Advertising Postcard (c.1902). 48 Source: Courtesy Prof. Robert A. Shaw. 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 JournalPage 41 of 42 of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in Marketing
1 2 3 4 5 6 7 8 9 10 11 12 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 Figure 10 32 Source: Illustrated London News (1887) 24 December, p. 15, courtesy ILN Ltd. 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60 Journal of HistoricalJournal of Historical Research Research in Marketing in MarketingPage 42 of 42
1 2 3 4 Table 1. Paprika Schlesinger Branch Stores 5
6 Location Date Opened Date Closed 7 8 Carlsbad early 1890s c.1920 9 Marienbad early 1890s c.1915 10 Bad Ischl early 1890s early 1900s 11 Meran 1894 c.1896 12 Budapest 1895 c.1920 13 14 15 16 17 18 19 20 21 22 23 24 25 26 27 28 29 30 31 32 33 34 35 36 37 38 39 40 41 42 43 44 45 46 47 48 49 50 51 52 53 54 55 56 57 58 59 60