Friends of Morocco
Spring 2003 http://home.att.net/~morocco
Friends of Morocco: Looking Backward, Forward and Sideways By Tim Resch, FOM President Director, Bruce Cohen. The FOM database was used for reconnecting volunteers, supporting year of service It just keeps on getting better. 2002 was an active year reunions, announcing local events such as film festivals, for FOM, and 2003 and 2004 promise to exceed that pace. commercial concerts, cooking classes, and lectures and The major events of 2002 were the FOM Itjimaa in June responding to assistance inquires. Also in December, a associated with the 40+1 NPCA celebration of Peace Corps major mailing to 2600 lapsed members soliciting (covered in our Summer issue) and the 40th Anniversary of membership was sent out so that we increased membership Peace Corps in Morocco kickoff celebration tour of coastal and maintained fresh addresses. See the FOM web site for and southern Morocco in October, which was discussed in our listing of “lost” volunteers for whom our address has the Fall issue. Not mentioned there was the excellent press gone stale. coverage we garnered. We had a total of 18 articles in FOM organized a bulk purchase of Moroccan-American Morocco and an article in the Washington Times. The crossed flag pins and then provided the pins at cost to the articles can be seen on the FOM web site. Also described in Embassy of Morocco, the Tangier-American Legation the Fall issue is the reception for the female Moroccan museum Society (TALMS), Casablanca Travel and Tours, the political leaders observing the 2002 US elections. Washington Moroccan Club and as a membership premium. The FOM web site was honored with “First Place” during Pins were also distributed during the 40th Anniversary the NPCA Country of Service 2002 web site awards, and the Celebration tour in Morocco. Pins are available for $2 each, Friends of Morocco Newsletter was judged second place in 3 for $5 and 8 for $10. the Country of Service/Special Interest Groups for content. In collaboration with the Washington Moroccan Club In 2003, I think we will continue to be competitive. (WMC) and the American Moroccans in the USA (AMUSA), Mentioned in this issue is the reception we hosted in FOM hosted a September 11 Memorial and Remembrance December 2002 for incoming Peace Corps Morocco Presentation and Dinner at the Casablanca restaurant in Alexandria, Virginia on September 11, 2002 to recognize the Moroccan community’s efforts for the victims of the 9/11 Table of Contents attacks and its aftermath. The response included blood Ash Khabarna? ...... 2 donations, fund-raising events, and education activities. Women Rug Weavers ...... 6 Ambassador Aziz Mekouar spoke. The FOM video “Bridges FOM Souk ...... 9 between Cultures” was shown. (see page 23 for information about this video) Book Review: The Color of Henna ...... 10 The sideways part in the title of this article refers to the Moroccan Tattoo Tale ...... 11 events that come and go between newsletters. See our web 2003 Reunion in Kansas City ...... 12 site for the events calendar. At press time, we have just had Letter from Kigali ...... 13 the first of the NPCA Embassy series at the Moroccan Book Review: Despite Good Intentions ...... 14 Embassy and the Brooklyn henna extravaganza. Next week are Moroccan films and music in DC at the Smithsonian New PC Morocco Director ...... 15 Francophonie Festival and a Tunisian lecture series. Smithsonian Exhibit ...... 15 Coming up is a presentation on May 29 in DC on St. Jude’s Moroccan Rugs in 20th Century Design ...... 16 Children's Research Hospital Connections with Morocco, Thanks, Merci, Shukron ...... 18 and the 1980 TEFL stage reunion in North Carolina. Making Connections ...... 20 Morocco at the Movies #3 ...... 21 Jews in Moroccan Society ...... 22 Bridges Between Cultures Video ...... 23 Page 2 Friends of Morocco Ash Khabarna? Editor’s note: I sincerely apologize for Lance Hicks—Kasba Tadla 74-76 lives in Memorial Hospital Foundation in any errors in the last installment of Orange, CA. Contact Lance at Chicago. Ash Khabarna. Most of these entries
(Continued from page 2) currently working on an Essaouira story derangement that is apparent.” writes, “I have taught English at the for Travel+Leisure as well. Contact Contact the Riders at university level in Paris, France; New Richard at
(Continued from page 3)
Honduras. I am now living and working School District. in Bisbee, AZ as the senior planner for Whitney Foster—PC Morocco Staff 72- Cochise County. I’m married and have David Burgess—PC Morocco Director 83- 73 is a consultant and retired from 2 daughters, 12 and 3 years-old.” 85 is an adjunct professor at the Institute the World Bank. Whitney lives in Contact Mark at
DIRECTORY INFORMATION
Name: ______
Address: ______
City: ______State: ______Zip: ______
Home phone: ______Fax:______Email: ______
Current occupation: ______
Employer/school: ______
Experience in Morocco: (RPCVs and PC staffers list Peace Corps jobs. Academics: list field and research topics. Moroccans: list profession or field of study) ______
Years in Morocco: ______to ______Site/hometown: ______
I give permission to FOM to print the above information in the FOM newsletter: ______Yes ______No
Areas of interest: Check potential FOM activities in which you would be interested: _____ newsletter _____ local FOM chapter _____ speakers’ bureau _____ trips to Morocco _____ recruiting PCVs _____ putting RPCVs/Moroccans in touch _____ hospitality _____ reunion/gatherings _____ career/readjustment services _____ fund raising _____ development education _____ FOM officer position Other ______
We need your support for the Friends of Morocco Newsletter and other FOM activities. Membership categories appear below. Joint membership includes membership in FOM and the National Peace Corps Association (NPCA). NPCA members also receive the award-winning magazine World View, and the newsletter 3/1/61. NPCA and FOM dues and contributions are tax-deductible.
JOINT MEMBERSHIP IN FRIENDS OF MOROCCO AND NATIONAL PEACE CORPS ASSOCIATION Individual _____ $50.00 Multiple (two people, one address) _____ $65.00 MEMBERSHIP IN FRIENDS OF MOROCCO ONLY Individual _____ $15.00 Multiple (two people, one address) _____ $20.00
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Spring 03 P.O. Box 2579, Washington, DC 20013-2579 Friends of Morocco
We like to keep an update on our members. Please answer the following questions:
1. Briefly, what have you done since leaving Peace Corps? What are you doing now?
2. What projects or programs would you like to FOM involved in (either in the US or Morocco)? Can you help?
3. Which news features would or do you like in the FOM newsletter?
The information collected on this form will be used by FOM and will be made available only to those organizations whose purposes are consistent with the aims of FOM. It will not be sold or traded for commercial purposes. The information may be used in the FOM Directory unless you request otherwise.
P.O. Box 2579, Washington, DC 20013-2579 Friends of Morocco Page 9
Tours, books, websites, and more in and about Morocco
► Sixteenth Annual COME WITH ME TO THE KASBAH 15-day Tour of Morocco September 18th to October 2, 2003 featuring Casablanca-born KITTY MORSE author of The Scent of Orange Blossoms and Cooking at the Kasbah. This is a unique opportunity to learn about Morocco's intriguing culture, shop in its enticing souks, and savor its world-famous cuisine. The two- week, all inclusive tour leaves from New York, and takes in the Imperial Cities of Rabat, Fez, Meknes, and Marrakech, as well as the Kasbah Trail from the oasis of Tinherir to the Sahara town of Ouarzazate. Kitty, the author of several books on Moroccan cuisine, has planned a host of special events in private homes around the country. The tour culminates with a diffa in Kitty's family riyad, a restored pasha's residence south of Casablanca. For information, please contact Natalie Tuomi, Carefree Vacations, 1084 N. El Camino Real, Suite C, Encinitas CA 92024. (800)683-1556 or (760)479-4328. e-mail: [email protected]. Kitty is a member of Friends of Morocco .
► www.lamarocaine.com is the first website dedicated to Moroccan women. It includes pages dedicated to relationships, news, beauty, cooking and much more.
► http://rjeanne.free.fr Voilà un site qui traite de l'utilisation que font les membres de la diaspora maocaine d'Internet et de son impact sur l'immigration et l'aide au dévelopement du Maroc. Cette étude a été menée à l'aide d'une analyse de forums de discussion marocains et d'un questionnaire auquel des internautes marocains expatriés ont répondu...
► www.sipa.columbia.edu/muslim-nyc: (Re)embracing Diversity in NYC Schools: Educational Outreach for Muslim Sensitivity The curriculum of (Re)embracing Diversity combines a wealth of information about Islam and Muslims with interactive classroom activities that foster the critical importance of tolerance and respect for ethnic and religious diversity. For the convenience of teachers, the curriculum is downloadable either in its entirety or as individual lesson plans depending on students' needs or interests. Also, most lessons include one or more handouts, but these must be downloaded separately from the instructor's guide. Lou Cristillo, Project Coordinator, (Ouarzazate 78-81). National Institute for Technology and Liberal Education (NITLE) is pleased to announce the publication of an extensive on-line curricular resource on the Arab world called "Arab Culture and Civilization". This site was conceived in the days following last September 11, as the liberal arts colleges in NITLE's network struggled to help their students and faculty make sense of and respond constructively to the tragedy. The web site offers "Special thanks to Michael Toler (El Jadida/Tangier 90-94) for his excellent, diligent work in developing content for this site over the past year. His organization of diverse materials, scholars, disciplines, and areas has been both indispensable and exemplary."
Je cherche Friendship Tour 2003
Hello. I am looking for information on a former student The third annual Moroccan-American Friendship tour will of mine from Peace Corps days (65-66). His name is Jai Ali take place October 5—15, 2003. This year, the tour will focus Ben Mansouri. He would now be 53-54 years old. He lived on northern Morocco. The tour would arrive in Casablanca in Fès, near Bab Bou Jeloud, and attended my art classes in and depart to Tangier via Lixus. We would then go on to the evenings at the Maison des Jeunes (run by Jeunesse & Tetouan, then to Chefchaouen, Ketama, Targuist and to Al Sports) at Place Batha in the Fès medina. He had many Houceima. Travel would then be via Taounate to Fes. A trip brothers and sisters, including an older sister, Charifa Ben to Ifrane and Azrou would include a visit to Al Akhawayn Mansouri, who was very strong in English, having been University. From there we would visit Meknes, Volubius and taught by Peace Corps volunteers Polly Rightmire and the city of Moulay Idriss. The tour would then continue to Virginia Wolf. Any information would appreciated by: Rabat to meet with Peace Corps staff and exit out of Casablanca visiting the Hassan II Mosque and lunch at a J.J. van der Water, M-III women’s shelter.
(Continued from page 5) where Mary Jane teaches economic Margaret Zundel Shirley—Oujda 64-66 development in Africa and the Middle development and international business is an art professor at Maylhurst East. Contact Joel at
By Kate Haas (Meknes 90-93) She was downright weird!
I am the last person most people expect to have a tattoo. She was covered with tattoos, some of which she’d done When friends and family describe me, words like, herself. "wholesome" and "sensible" are usually employed. I have She was mean. long since made my peace with this. Of course, now that tattoos are so popular that wholesome and sensible folks She was cold, dude! routinely get them (not that they haven’t been, all along), I don’t see why anyone should be particularly surprised that I Don’t get on her bad side, one look will freeze you. have one - but they always are. Aw, she’s a pussycat, really, you just don’t know her. Had I known back in the early 90’s that tattoos were becoming a hot and trendy item, I would never have gotten And how about those clothes of hers? one. At least, I don’t think I would have. But I spent most of 1990-1993 in Morocco. As far as popular trends in the U.S. And isn’t it true she knows how to use that stuff they sell were concerned, I was out of it. down at the witchcraft souk? The dried lizards?
My tattoo was done with a sterilized sewing needle, a length Like I said, don’t mess with Stacy! of white cotton thread, a bottle of India ink - and Stacy. Without her, I wouldn’t have a tattoo story to tell. Stacy was coming to do some work with the health/ sanitation trainees. They joked about being nervous. Then We Peace Corps trainees first heard about Stacy during she showed up. stage, our three-month training period. Second-year volunteers, who dropped by now and then to check out the Stacy had very pale skin and wild, reddish-brown, curly hair new crew, were objects of great interest to us raw recruits. that stood out from her head and flowed over her shoulders. They seemed at home in Morocco in a way we wondered if A rattail interwoven with beads and feathers trailed halfway we’d ever be. We admired the way their conversations were down her back. Her gaze was flinty and measuring. She was casually studded with the Arabic words we were still in her mid 20’s, like most of us, but because of her grave struggling to master. The stories they told about 18-hour expression, she seemed older. A row of seven silver hoops bus rides over the mountains and bouts of mysterious extended up each of her ears, and her nose and one diseases made them seem so worldly. (In the not-too eyebrow were pieced as well (remember, this was well distant future, we’d be putting on the same nonchalant act before piercing was commonplace - to most of us it was for the next new trainees.) Everyone wanted to talk to them, outlandishly riveting). During mealtimes, while the rest of us eager to get the lowdown on what life in Morocco was really chatted as we scooped tajine out of the communal dish, like. Some of these founts of knowledge were working as Stacy barricaded herself behind a book. cross-cultural or technical-training assistants with us during our three month training period. One of them was Stacy. And, of course, there were the tattoos.
We heard about Stacy long before she showed up at stage. Traditionally, the Berber women of North Africa have There were many colorful characters among the volunteers, identifying tribal tattoos on their chin and/or foreheads; but there was something different in people’s tone when each village or clan has its own design. They are geometric, they talked about Stacy. If they were men, there was more consisting of dark blue patterns of diamonds, triangles, than a touch of unease. chevrons, small dots, and cross-hatches. Although some younger women are opting not to get them these days, This is what we heard: they’re still a common sight everywhere in Morocco.
Stacy spoke fluent Berber and Arabic and almost never left (Note: Berbers are the people who were living in North Africa her site down south. at the time that the Arab Muslims invaded in the 7th century. Their origins are mysterious and their language is unrelated When she did, she always dressed in a jellaba and passed to Arabic, or indeed, any other known language. Although for a Berber. they have taken on Islam, they have retained their own cultural identity and are known for being clannish and She could read the Tarot. shrewd)
She was an artist. Stacy’s hands were covered with Berber tattoos. Every finger was inked with those blue, homemade-looking designs, She knew everything about herbs. (Continued on page 18) Page 12 Friends of Morocco
2003 Peace Corps Morocco Reunion Goin’ to Kansas City d’oeuvres at the Embassy Suites will present an overview of Friends of 7:30 pm - ? – Catch up with friends, old Morocco activities past and future.. Ever wonder what happened to and new Tom? Want to know what became of 9:00 pm - ? – Night out in historic Jen? Curious to find out how Dave Saturday, June 14 Westport turned out? 7:00 am - 10:30 am – Complimentary Come to Kansas City this June! cooked-to-order breakfast Sunday, June 15 The 2003 Peace Corps/Morocco 10:30 am - Noon – On your own to 7:00 am - 10:30 am – Complimentary reunion is going to be a wonderful explore Kansas City cooked-to-order breakfast opportunity for all RPCVs who served in Noon - 1:30 pm – Meet with your stage Noon – Hotel check-out Morocco to reconnect with each other. mates to break bread Information about the reunion can 1:30 pm - 5:00pm – Group trip to the There is a $75 per person be found at www.reunion2003.vze. Nelson-Atkins Museum of Art registration fee (children 12 and under com. Event planners will also be The museum will be hosting a screening attend for free) charged to cover all online for a special Q & A chat session of Bab Al-Sama Maftuh (A Door the Sky),” food, banquet hall, reception room, from 1:00–2:00 pm ET/10:00–11:00 a critically acclaimed film about a service fees, taxes and gratuities. The am PT on Saturday, April 19. Go to Moroccan woman’s quest to preserve deadline for payment, available online www.reunion2003.vze.com and click her cultural and religious identity, through PayPal, has been extended to on the “Live Chat!” button. directed by Farida Ben Lyziad. The film April 23. Visit the “Fees, Flights and Rooms have been reserved at the will be preceded by welcoming remarks Rooms” link at www.reunion2003.vze. Embassy Suites Hotel Kansas City– from H.E. Aziz Mekouar, Ambassador of com for more details. If you would Plaza at a special group rate of $109 the Kingdom of Morocco to the United prefer to speak with a real live person (4 people maximum per room). States, and will be followed by a about making your payment, contact Mention “Peace Corps/ Morocco” to reception with the ambassador at the event co-coordinator Edward J. get the reduced rate when you call museum. Hermann at (617) 755-1175. (816) 756-1720, or you can reserve This reunion is going to be the your room online through the reunion 5:30 pm -7:00 pm – Cocktails (open bar) highlight of 2003. You won’t want to Web site; use “PCM” as the Group at the Embassy Suites miss getting together with so many Code to get the special group rate. 7:00 pm - 9:00 pm – Moroccan feast friendly and familiar faces. So make Special roommate requests or room your plans to attend the 2003 Peace assignments can be arranged with the Jason Ben-Meir, president of the High Corps/Morocco reunion. See you in hotel. Atlas Foundation, will be speaking during June! Discounts on airfare are also dinner on behalf of the HAF. The available through Midwest Express and foundation was created by Peace Corps U.S. Airways. See the reunion Web site volunteers and staff who served in for more information. Morocco. Its founders utilize their professional relationships, friendships Reunion Schedule of Events: and knowledge gained during their years Friday, June 13 of Peace Corps service for the continued 5:30 pm - 7:30 pm – Cocktail benefit of the Moroccan people. Tim reception with open bar and light hors Resch, President of Friends of Morocco,
In Memoriam: Jason Medeiros Jason Medeiros (Meknes 1999-2001) Manager in Goma, Deomcratic Republic active member of the Gender and Jason Medeiros, a former Catholic of Congo to help with the emergency Development (GAD) committee. He Relief Services employee, disappeared caused by the volcanic eruption there. helped organize Take Our Daughters to Monday while swimming He again served CRS well. Jason Work events, and Camp GLOW (Girls in the sea at Coffee Bay on the Eastern resigned on October 31, 2002 to return Leading Our World) training for Cape coast of South Africa. Jason to school to continue his Moroccan girls. joined CRS as a International studies. He was taking a five-week In lieu of flowers, Jason’s family Development Fellow and in October vacation before returning home for requests that donations be made in 2001 assigned to CRS/Cameroon. He Christmas when the accident happened. Jason’s name to Catholic Relief did an outstanding job and was While in Morocco, Jason was in the Services. promoted in June 2002 to Program Small Business Sector. He was also an Page 13 Friends of Morocco
Letter from Kigali by Doug Teschner (Rabat 71-73) government, and eventually the lives of We saw 27 gorillas and were people, here. sometimes as close as 5-10 feet Dear FOM friends: I visited Kenya several times in 2002 away. Quite spectacular. If you have and it was truly exciting to witness the not already seen it, rent the movie Since April 2002, I have been emergence of a maturing democracy there “Gorillas in the Mist.” Our working in Rwanda as director of a in the run up to the December 27 experience was just like in the movie USAID Project. The goals of the project elections. Discussion on the streets (which also has good scenes of are to strengthen and modernize the reflected a high level of open dialogue that village life here). National Assembly’s administrative and is so critical to democracy and violence For a great family trip we drove support systems, support improvements was minimal. I was in Nairobi the day after to Uganda to visit Kampala and in the legislative process (including the inauguration of President Kibaki, and it Murchison Falls and Queen informed debate, improved policy was a thrill to listen to every day people Elizabeth National Parks where we analysis, and enhanced executive such as taxi drivers express their hope and saw elephants, lions, giraffes, oversight), and assist the Assembly in aspirations for their country. There was hippos, crocodiles, water buffalo, enhancing the efficiency and capacity of enormous excitement about the peaceful kobs (like antelope), etc. In Uganda, legislators and staff in anticipation of transition of power (a rarity for Africa). the boys and I also went whitewater Rwanda’s June 2003 elections. The Rwanda has a long way to go in democratic rafting through the class 5 rapids on focus of the project is on institutional governance to get to where Kenya is today, the Nile. (This is the same place development, technical assistance, and but it gives them something to shoot for, recently featured in a World View training. and I hope, in some small way, I am magazine story on the planned hydro Technology development is a big contributing. development). I thought I was going part of the project and we are improving I have a very nice house overlooking to drown when the raft flipped on top the Assembly’s web site, increasing some of Rwanda’s famously beautiful of me in a big rapid, but, of course, I internet and email access for Deputies green hills. I buy soda and beer across the survived. I guess this happens a lot and staff, electronically archiving old street where there are some mud houses in this BIG water. Of course, the paper documents, and we installed an and little shops, including a local bar. teenagers loved it! We also really internet cafe in the Assembly’s library. People recognize me when I go for walks in enjoyed Kampala, which is more I have also organized training for our neighborhood and some even speak cosmopolitan with a lot less hassle MPs, including one on Policy Analysis Kirnywanda with me. My house is a than Rwanda (the Kigali kids here and Executive Oversight, including skills popular hangout among Americans and can be pretty obnoxious although to empower the MPs to better exercise other expats for late night All Star Game they don’t necessarily realize it). We control over government actions. This and Super Bowl parties. even found a modern supermarket was especially exciting for me because My wife, Marte, and sons Ben and there. The boys thought they had it was held in the impressive Assembly Luke were here for four months but have died and gone to heaven in Kampala Hall, and it was fun to be back “playing now gone back to the US to live. I have which is kind of funny since it is still legislator” after 12 years as a some special memories from when they all-Africa. Things are very relative! representative in the NH House. One of were here. For example, on Father’s Day We took a public bus back to Kigali – the English-speaking MPs told me, 13-year-old Luke walked me to a little mud another memorable experience. “Your trainings have brought a lot of life hut restaurant in our neighborhood where Luke bought a large wooden statue to the National Assembly.” In we ordered breakfast of Ubugali (a manioc and we got it home to Kigali by September, I finished a comprehensive dish that reminds me of silly putty and buying an extra seat on the bus ($10 report on the Rwanda legislature tastes about the same). one way for the 7-hour trip). (“Analysis of the Legislative Process at Rwanda, of course, is most famous for Last summer, Luke and I had a the Rwanda transitional National the mountain gorillas. To see them, my very special two-day experience. We Assembly”). older son Ben (17) and I -- plus a guide, traveled in taxis (one of those This is an exciting time to be some more tourists, and some armed minivans with 20 people crammed working here. The much-publicized soldiers-- walked an hour up a inside) to a town where we began a Gacaca courts have begun their mountainside, past circular mud huts with 24-mile, two-day walk to another grassroots work in trying the more than thatched roofs, through small potato and town where we had left our car. We 100,000 prisoners detained for alleged flower farms (we would call them gardens— hiked through beautiful hills covered crimes from the 1994 genocide, a new people here work very small fields on often with banana trees and little gardens. Constitution is being drafted, and plans steep slopes) to the edge of the forest. The area we traveled in is rarely are underway for elections next year. It From there we followed small trails and visited by foreigners, and hordes of is both rewarding and humbling to be in later machete-cut passages through the curious people sometimes followed a role which has the potential to very thick vegetation to reach the gorillas. (Continued on page 17) contribute to improvements in the Page 14 Friends of Morocco Book Review: Despite Good Intentions: Why Development Assistance in the Third World Has Failed Despite Good Intentions: Why The central thesis of Despite Good on the poor and then giving the donor Development Assistance to the Third Intentions is that half a century of the feeling of empowerment that World has Failed by Thomas W. Development has had little fundamental comes from personally making a Dichter, University of Massachusetts impact on global poverty. Dichter difference in the lives of an individual Press, 2003 maintains that Development has fallen child, family or community. The (reviewed by George Scharffenberger) far short of expectations for two pressure of time and the need to fundamental reasons. First, the generate and be accountable for Despite Good Intentions joins the Development business mistakenly stories encourages even those with the growing genre of insider critiques of modeled itself on the experiences of the best of intentions to seize the initiative the development business. But while post-WWII Marshall Plan. But while the from local hands. Ironically, Dichter Tom Dichter (Marrackes/Fez/Sefrou Marshall Plan involved rebuilding comments, empowering donors (both 64-66) includes the requisite statistics previously functioning economies, individual and institutional) often and litany of failed projects, he makes Dichter argues that development efforts means disempowering those they his points from a refreshing in poor nations face the fundamentally claim to help. External control perspective. different task of building infrastructure, reinforces dependency, minimizes Using a fictionalized character, institutions and systems where nothing local learning and vitiates hopes for Ben Rymaker, Dichter builds his like them existed before and where sustainability. critique around a typical career in the critical building blocks such as Through Ben’s career stories, Development business. Ben starts off functioning markets, effective Dichter manages with humor, grace with a Peace Corps assignment in governance and legal systems, requisite and irony to impale many a sacred Morocco – to which Dichter dedicates management and technical skills and cow – from child sponsorship, to micro- two stories that will strike chords in the experiential knowledge are often lacking. finance, to PRA, to strategic planning, memories of many FOM readers. The Reconstruction-modeled to capacity building, to local ownership first, entitled Romance, describes development started out using a and participation. But this is not a Ben’s first heady days in training and mechanical, engineering-inspired diatribe against the evils or then as a PCV in Marrakech – his approach, ie. one that combines specific incompetence of development sense of adventure, his pleasure inputs in specific proportions according institutions, their sponsors nor their connecting with students, the strong to a specific program in order to produce staff. Dichter’s starting point is that bonding friendships with his fellow specific results. Despite five decades of the vast majority of those involved in PCVs, his giddy sense of belonging and evidence to the contrary, the illusion that the business are sincere, hard working an overriding feeling of importance. significant change is simple and and ethical. Instead he sees the The second story, Illusion, takes place predictable still undergirds the vast culprit as “a set of increasingly self- a month later. The storming of his majority of the development industry’s serving structures whose imperatives, school in the Medina by Moroccan efforts. stakes, and incentives have snuck up police bursts Ben’s bubble. Rebuffed Secondly, the organizational on us…”. by his students in his efforts to get imperatives of the multiplicity of The book’s appearance coincides them to end their strike, humiliated structures that have mushroomed to lay with what some fear are Administration and confused, Ben retreats to the claim to the $50 - $60 billion annually attempts to dismantle or at least more familiar comfort of a Flag Pils spent for development have redefine US foreign assistance. The beer at a French café in the Nouvelle compounded the simplistic, short-term restructuring could however provide as Ville. project-biases of the engineering many opportunities as it does threats. Ben’s story continues. He returns approach. Once formed into agencies, But this is precisely where Despite to Morocco for graduate research, companies and organizations, the Good Intentions disappoints. In his serves a stint as Peace Corps Country development business, like any other, final chapter, Dichter advocates folding Director in Yemen, works on USAID- has taken on a life of its own, complete up tent by ending organized funded projects for beltway bandits with its own jargon and a quasi-absolute development efforts and counting on and NGOs and then does consulting instinct to survive. And like other immigrant remittances, international working for a broad spectrum of businesses, development organizations capital flows, information and development organizations. The must grow to survive. communication technology and other vignettes only thinly veil the steps of Dichter sees the marketing of aspect of globalization to do what the Dichter’s own impressive career. development as a self-reinforcing, industry has failed to do. While no one Despite Good Intentions holds up a negative feedback mechanism that can deny the growing impact of mirror in which those of us who have works against real impact. Organizations globalization, evidence on the ground followed in Tom/Ben’s footsteps can compete for dollars by putting an raises questions regarding the all too easily recognize ourselves. attractive, non-threatening human face (Continued on page 15) Page 15 Friends of Morocco FOM Welcomes New Peace Corps Morocco Director Bruce Cohen Bruce Cohen has been appointed spans over 30 years. He has extensive in French. We are confident that he will Director of Peace Corps Morocco. Mr. experience directing recruitment for bring a wealth of talent, experience and Cohen comes to Morocco from the US both national and international knowledge to Morocco. Fund for UNICEF in New York where he volunteer programs as well as Friends of Morocco had an worked as the Director of Volunteer managing Peace Corps programs in the opportunity to brief Mr. Cohen on the Services. In that capacity he managed field. His most recent experience was close cooperative relationship with activities for UNICEF volunteers nation- with the Corporation for National Peace Corps/Morocco and facilitated wide, developed and implemented a Service (CNS) as the Director of contact with the Moroccan community UNICEF college campus initiative, AmeriCorps Recruitment. While with in Washington, DC before his departure. provided leadership to local area CNS he managed the national FOM hosted a reception in cooperation chapters and increased the number of recruitment and referral system, served with Friends of Tunisia, Friends of volunteers and revenue from volunteer as the principal policy advisor for Senegal and the Gambia, the Returned activities. national recruitment strategies and Peace Corps Volunteers of Washington, Prior to this he worked for the acted as the liaison with service DC and the National Peace Corps American Jewish World Service where programs, state and federal agencies, Association at the Casablanca he was the Director for International military and business experts. Prior to restaurant in Alexandria, VA on Programs and the Jewish Volunteer this, he directed the Peace Corps December 10, 2002 including a buffet Corps. While there, he directed all recruitment operations in Miami, of Moroccan foods, middle eastern aspects of recruitment, screening and Atlanta and Chicago regional dance music and dancer, a silent placement procedures, and recruitment offices. auction benefiting FOM charities, and established policy and operational Mr. Cohen was a Peace Corps presentations including HE Ambassador guidelines for the Corps. Volunteer in Tunisia. As a volunteer, Mr. Aziz Mekouar, Ambassador of Morocco Mr. Cohen's experience with Cohen taught English and adult to the US. volunteer programs in the government education classes. Mr. Cohen is fluent
“The Fabric of Moroccan Life” Exhibit at the Smithsonian The Fabric of Moroccan Life, a geometric and floral designs, have Morocco. Sidney and Kathryn Taurel, traveling exhibit by the Indianapolis never before been on public display. Joseph’s Oriental Rug Imports and Museum of Art, will travel to the The Fabric of Moroccan Life Royal Air Maroc generously provided Smithsonian's National Museum of explores the artistic importance of support for this exhibition. African Art in Washington, D.C., June these superb weavings as well as their The show will also be the 6 - September 21, 2003. central role in Moroccan culture. Part of foundation for a series of films, The Fabric of Moroccan Life is an an oral and creative tradition passed lectures, craft demonstrations, music exhibition showcasing 150 rare down through generations, the hand- and dance presentations during this embroideries, hangings and rugs woven works reflect the diversity of this summer in Washington, DC. Volunteers drawn from the Museum's renowned African nation's landscape, culture and needed textile collection. The Fabric of society. To enrich this evocative picture Moroccan Life includes woven of Moroccan life, the exhibition will also masterworks that reflect the broad feature striking pieces of Moroccan range of traditions and cultural jewelry and costumes from the same influences active in Morocco during periods. the 18th, 19th and early 20th The Fabric of Moroccan Life is centuries. The majority of these under the High Patronage of His brightly colored pieces, featuring lively Majesty Mohammed VI, King of
(Continued from page 14) imperatives of our collective conscience totally relying on globalization? It’s likelihood that a laissez-faire approach or our sense of enlightened economic perhaps time for Ben to finish his Flag would lead to the outcomes Dichter and political self-interest? Building on Pils in the Nouvelle Ville and head back imagines. Dichter’s own arguments, wouldn’t it to the Medina – but with a new sense of not be better to seek a more reflective, the task at hand. Trickle-down development may let us long-term approach that addresses the off the hook but does it do justice to broader causes of poverty by seeking to either the ethical and humanitarian work WITH rather than either ignoring or Page 16 Friends of Morocco Moroccan Rugs and Twentieth Century Design By Brooke Pickering Europe. The 1925 Exhibition of fact, this ideal of common goals and Decorative Arts held in Paris offered a collaboration between disciplines was Colorful is the adjective most widely platform for his then controversial design a driving force behind the Bauhaus. used to describe Moroccan carpets, theories. His Esprit Nouveau Pavilion, Developments in abstract painting in but there is another quality that almost erected for the exhibition, proved the Europe strongly influenced avant-garde everyone: designers, artists, and antithesis of the French style that was at architecture and vice versa. The fine collectors, seems to agree on and that the time still based around historical arts and rugs merged in Europe during is their distinctly “modern” look. One models and high craftsmanship. In this the twenties and thirties as a number can easily imagine Berber knotted pile exhibition, as in numerous other of artists turned their attention to rugs fitting in with modern décor, and commissions over the course of his carpet production. As it turns out, it’s not unusual for people to associate career, he used Moroccan carpets to Moroccan rugs were a source of them with modern art. Not further his aesthetic agenda. inspiration for many of them. Two surprisingly, a great many western Here, Le Corbusier presented the influential women designers in Europe, artists and designers of the twentieth ingredients of what he would call the Eileen Grey and Evelyn Wyld, spent century made this same Morocco – “machine for living”. The living quarters time in Morocco learning spinning, Modern connection. of the installation were made up of a dying and weaving techniques directly In fact, Moroccan pile rugs, mainly two-story open plan that promoted his from Berber women. Another prolific from the Middle Atlas Mountains, can principles of functionalism and his goal carpet designer ,Ivan Da Silva Bruhns, be found installed in houses designed of designing standardized affordable was strongly influenced by a Paris by a few highly influential twentieth housing for the “common” man. The exhibition of Moroccan art that he saw century modernist architects including, furniture was distinctly un-designed, with in 1917 in which knotted pile carpets among others, Le Corbusier, Frank simple armchairs which he chose of all areas of Morocco were Lloyd Wright, Alvar Aalto, and Charles because of their utilitarian aura. These represented. and Ray Eames. Curiously, the rugs pieces echoed his emphasis on function pictured in these houses are typically and simplicity. Each piece was Frank Lloyd Wright’s Fallingwater left unidentified in the literature and so considered in relation to the whole and Completed in the late 1930s, their existence is not widely known, almost everything was mass-produced, Fallingwater, in Bear Run, even by aficionados of North African with the exception of the paintings on the Pennsylvania, was designed by Frank art. walls (and they were Picasso, Braque, Lloyd Wright as a country house for the What we find in these houses are Leger plus Le Corbusier’s own purist Kaufmann family. In creating not the finely woven flatweaves that paintings) and the Berber rugs on the Fallingwater, Wright took his many of us associate with collectible floor. commitment to modern materials and Moroccan material, but rather the thick So we might ask, why did Le free-flowing space, and adapted it to pile rugs, most often from the Beni Corbusier choose the Zaiane rug for the the Kaufmanns’ unusual site. Ouarain, Zaiane and Zemmour tribes. living room? First, it was inexpensive. Most people are surprised to learn In terms of design, they tend to be This, and its low knot count, qualifies it that almost all the rugs in Fallingwater fairly simple, with all-over patterns, as an “everyday” object, something that, are Moroccan. Originally placed in the usually either some form of a lattice or although exotic and hand crafted, house were at least three Beni Ouarain grid. doesn’t stand out as a luxury item, and rugs, two Zemmours, and one rug from Considering much of the rhetoric so it promotes the image of the interior the Plains of Marrakesh region. While surrounding the modern interior: as one attainable by the general public. these large and bold rugs might be precision, the straight line, new It’s anonymous in the sense that it lacks overpowering in a more traditional technology and machine production, a strong individual stamp. Rather than interior, here they are very much in just to name a few key phrases, it may suggestive of any single artist’s vision, its tune with the larger scheme. In the seem surprising that these quirky, all-over pattern evokes a sense of the large open living rooms, the rugs help bold, and handcrafted rugs were infinite and the weaver’s prescribed delineate the sitting areas. Their long included, but Berber rugs were often a tribal vocabulary. So this rug, both narrow dimensions are naturally perfect design solution as they were anonymous and “un-designed”, colorful compatible with the built-in banquette able to echo architectural concepts and geometric, serves a number of sofas. It is interesting also to note that and soften otherwise seemingly hard purposes. in that these sofas are simple, built or cold interiors. Le Corbusier’s use of paintings and into the wall and low not unlike those sculpture and his own background as a in a Middle Eastern or Moroccan Le Corbusier’s Esprit Nouveau Pavillion visual artist remind us of the large home. Le Corbusier came to prominence in degree of collaboration between the In terms of composition, the Beni the 1920s as one of the early modern disciplines of fine art, decorative arts, Ouarain rugs with their trellis patterns masters of design and architecture in and architecture during this period. In (Continued on page 17) Page 17 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 16) inspired choice. Villa Mairea is filled mass produced ones, as were free- drawn across an open field, and the with references to a variety of cultures standing objects against those integral to Zemmour rugs with their irregular (Finnish, African, Japanese, and more) the house. placement of motifs within a larger and complex arrangements of texture They placed a Middle Atlas Zaiane grid, echo contrasting themes in and shape. Here the Moroccan rugs pile rug in the living room. As an “ethnic” Wright’s work: the rectilinear structure avoid making any one definitive object, it is in keeping with the spirit of on the one hand and the free flow of cultural statement, and instead they the numerous other artifacts from space on the other. Lastly, the rugs reflect the varied thematic repertoire Mexico and other foreign cultures, but its also serve an important humanizing and serve as a unifying force. rigorous geometry connects it with the function. Their warm colors and high otherwise modern western attitude of the pile create a much-needed Eames House Charles Eames and his decor. Warm in palette and highly counterpoint to the hard, smooth wife Ray are among the most tactile, it has the requisite warmth to surface of the stone floors. important American designers of the counteract the steel and concrete twentieth century. Their work in materials surrounding it. It has an Alvar Aalto Alvar Aalto was one of graphics, interiors, and furniture has informality which the Eames’ tried to Northern Europe’s most prominent become almost synonymous with mid- accentuate through the house’s open architects and furniture designers. A century modernism. plan, inexpensive materials, and casual good example of his signature style of Their Los Angeles house, designed seating arrangements. Also, its diagonal blending basic modernist ideas with a by Eliel Saarinen and Charles Eames, patterns subtly oppose the rectilinear or love of organic form can be seen in his embraces the machine aesthetic in its box-like structure of the house. It’s 1941 Villa Mairea (Finland) in which use of inexpensive mass-produced interesting to make a comparison here numerous Beni Ouarain carpets were parts and geometric forms. In the with Islamic architecture. All-over placed. Not surprisingly, Aalto interior, the Eames’ set about patterns set on the diagonal were acknowledged drawing a good deal of furnishing their house in an effort to historically used to suggest the concept inspiration from Fallingwater during create a warm and human solution to of infinity; for example, in the tile work of the design process for the Villa. the impersonal prefabricated modern open interior courtyards where the Natural, organic elements and house. They personalized it by diagonal tile patterns pushed outward textures are evoked everywhere in the arranging vignettes around the house, against the prescribed square floor house, and the Beni Ouarain rugs, with juxtaposing disparate objects, and plans. their African origins, geometric but creating displays of hand made things Modern American houses from the slightly irregular patterns, their soft they’d collected from around the world. sixties and seventies show that the texture and natural hues, are an Handcrafted pieces were set against (Continued on page 20)
(Continued from page 13) Not even a lamp or candles. A very, very for medicine, so I took care of that. us as we walked. 30-40 people few have a battery-powered radio. I gave Then, in January, we found out crowded around us when we stopped a small child a granola bar and asked Claudine had not gone back to school in the slightly bigger villages where we our Rwandan friend and guide Gilbert to because she could not afford to buy bought warm Coca Cola (no electricity tell him it was from the United States. the mandatory soap, toilet paper, pens for refrigeration) for the equivalent of Gilbert replied that it would mean and notebooks. So we took care of 25 cents. nothing to these people, that they do not that problem. These stories are far too Rwanda is the most densely know the difference between Kigali and typical in Rwanda where the ravages of populated country in Africa, and the US. Both are faraway places, far war and genocide have contributed to everywhere you go (including the route removed from their consciousness of a life of extreme poverty for so many of our hike), there are people -- working everyday subsistence agricultural lives. people. I sincerely hope that in their fields, carrying water from In Kigali, I continue to help Claudine, democratic governance, if achieved, streams to their often-distant homes in a young Rwandan who is going to high can make a difference for these ubiquitous yellow jugs, or sitting about school thanks to the support of our people in the future. drinking banana beer. We slept in a hometown Woodsville (NH) High School To end, I am grateful to be here very small house in a remote village, Honor Society and the organizational and know that, if were not for my and the women there cooked us a work of my wife Marte last summer. Peace Corps experience in Morocco, meal of rice, peanut sauce, and little Claudine comes from a very poor family such a wonderful job would never have fish over an open fire, while we drank with very limited resources. It was become mine. banana beer and warm real beer and fortuitous that I sent my driver to her Sincerely, Doug Fanta we had hauled 2 miles from the house to deliver a Christmas present last “major” village. These countryside back in December. He reported back people have virtually nothing – no that she was very sick (possibly with watches, toothbrushes, flashlights, etc. Malaria) and her mother had no money Page 18 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 11) Stacy was full of herbal lore, we had a lot of time on our which snaked across the backs of her hands and hands back at our site in Meknes, and so we faithfully disappeared under the sleeves of her jellaba. Homemade? transcribed all her advice for facial care. She told us how to Of course - she had done them herself. (How? And what kind find benzoin in the souk, what it was called in Arabic, and of nerve did that take?) As it turned out, the Berber tattoos showed us how to powder it up and mix it with other were only her latest - when she appeared in a sleeveless top ingredients to treat zits. On her instructions, we concocted one day, it became clear that Stacy had been patronizing rosewater potions for our skin, plastered avocado peel on our tattoo artists back in the US for years. faces, and pounded various seeds and nuts into scrubs and masks. When Stacy had a show of her paintings at the I don’t think I ever spoke to Stacy during our training; she cultural center in Rabat, we dressed up in our fanciest and remained a mysterious and forbidding figure to me. The Gulf rejoiced with her in the myriad "sold" stickers that soon War changed that. In January of 1991, just days prior to the adorned her work. US invasion of Iraq, all Peace Corps volunteers were abruptly evacuated from Morocco, returned to our "homes of record", It was around this time that one of the more adventurous and told to "wait and see" about a possible return to North PCVs asked Stacy to give him a tattoo. When he started Africa. Over 200 of us were "evacuated", and by the time the showing off the skillfully rendered dagger on his left shoulder State Department was ready to let us return six months later, blade, others stepped up to Stacy’s needle. Soon most of us most of that group had made other plans. The thirty-six of us were debating whether or not to ask her for one. who waited out the government and came back to Morocco quickly became a very close-knit bunch. I may have talked about it half-heartedly, but I never considered getting a tattoo until Stacy started in on me. In addition to being an herbalist, painter, and tattoo artist, Stacy was also a reader, and on the day she noticed me with "Ooh, with that really white skin, a tattoo would look great on an Ursula le Guin novel, our acquaintance began. I came into you! C’mon, Sandal Thong, think about it," she would coax. the capital once a month to work on the Peace Corps newsletter, and when I did, I stayed with Raf, a fellow PCV Maria, by far the more adventurous of us, was doing more who let most people passing through town crash at his place. than thinking about it - she was definitely getting one, and on I often ran into Stacy there, and though she still intimidated the day she came home from Rabat with a delicate Berber me somewhat, we would sometimes sit around talking about design inked on one of her toes, I started wavering. books. "I’d never try to persuade you to do something you don’t want One evening I discovered her reading Slave Girl of Gor, an to," Maria told me. "But I’ve must say, I think Stacy’s right unabashedly awful science fiction novel I had recently come about it looking good on your pale skin." across in the Peace Corps office lounge. It was set on a backwater planet where all the women were slaves, and they My three years in Morocco were nearly up. Soon it would be were all named Sandal Thong, Goat Hoof, and the like. time to head to Rabat and start going through the Completion of Service paperwork at the Peace Corps office. I had lived in "Ay! I can’t believe you’re reading that trash!" I yelled. this country longer than I’d lived anywhere since leaving home, and it felt so much a part of me that the thought of Stacy raised an eyebrow and grinned. "And how would you leaving was surreal. Although I was looking forward to know just how trashy it is - Sandal Thong?" starting grad school and seeing my family again, I could barely imagine myself doing anything other than walking It’s hard to keep being intimidated by someone who calls you home from school every day through the bustling medina; Sandal Thong on a regular basis (as Stacy began doing), and past the stalls with their pyramids of dates and henna, the soon my housemate, Maria, and I were hanging out with her (Continued on page 19) each time we came to Rabat.
Thank You! Merci! Many thanks to the people listed below who contributed to Friends of Morocco above and beyond their membership fees. Whitney Foster Carl Coon Ronald Ciras David Burgess Michael Toler George McFadden Kenn Agata Linda Locke Carrie Lesser Bassett Tom Birch Joseph Patti Patricia Yates Jerry Kurlandski & Laetitita Cairoli Carolyn Spicer Russ Betty Pope Steve Josephson Lance Hicks Jeffrey Ankron Beverly and John Shank Mary Jane and Bill Parmentier Page 19 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 18) course of perhaps an hour - and I wasn’t squeamish in the bright plastic goods, fluttering scarves, heaps of grain, and slightest. The only explanation I can come up with is that enamel tubs of sweet pastries. somehow I knew subconsciously that the place I had chosen - the inside of my right ankle - didn’t have a whole lot But each time I walked up the hill toward my house, past the of nerve endings. I just didn’t believe it would hurt very mosque where old men sat chatting in the sun, by the radio much. repair shop, always blasting the latest Egyptian pop hit, around the corner where the sfinj (doughnut) man sold his After scrubbing her hands and splashing alcohol on my delectably greasy wares, and up to my heavy brown metal door ankle, Stacy sterilized the needle, wrapped it in the sewing across from the clatter of the wood shop, I worried: Could I thread which would hold the ink, and dipped it into the possibly forget all of this? What if it’s not always as real to me bottle. as it is right now? I wanted Morocco to be so vividly imprinted in my mind that nothing could fade it away. Still, I’d felt that "I love mutilating and altering human flesh," she murmured, way about other places and people, and I knew what the as the needle pierced my skin for the first time. passage of time would do. To do the tattoo, Stacy had to make a series of pricks, close Maybe a tattoo would be a way of physically etching something enough together to form the lines of the design. The needle of Morocco into me. I’d always have it there, through didn’t go in far, just enough to deposit the ink under my whatever happened in the unknown years ahead. When I was skin. As I had suspected, it wasn’t so bad. I let out a few an old woman, my grandchildren could look at it and I would yelps, but for the most part it was slightly uncomfortable, tell them about all my adventures… rather than painful.
So I decided - sort of. In three weeks I’d be going into Rabat to After 45 minutes, it was done. I had a dark blue Berber do my paperwork. If Stacy happened to be in town, I’d have design on my ankle which, as Stacy had predicted, showed her do it. If she wasn’t - well, that would be a sign that it up with startling clarity against my skin. wasn’t meant to be. Everything was changing, and so quickly. I was about to When Maria and I walked into the sunny courtyard of the leave my home of three years, soon I would be a graduate Peace Corps office, the first person we saw was Stacy, sitting student in an unfamiliar city; now I was a woman with a on one of the metal chairs under an orange tree. tattoo. Who would she turn out to be?
"All, right, all right, I’ll do it," I said. She looked puzzled for a (Kate Haas is the editor of www.mirandazine.com) moment, then gave a fake-evil cackle and sent me off to the Peace Corps library to look through the book of traditional Berber tattoo designs. Typical Berber tattoo designs (from http://www.kenzi. I was unable to decide between three tattoos from villages com/HENNA/HTML/hennahistory.htm near Meknes, but when I showed the drawings to Stacy, she picked up a pen, and quickly sketched a new design, featuring elements from each tattoo I’d chosen. I liked Stacy’s revision far better than any of my original choices, and I also felt more comfortable using a design that was based on, but not a copy Bird - carries baraka of, a specific tattoo. After all, no matter how much I love Morocco, I’m not a Berber from the Middle Atlas Mountains.
That afternoon, Stacy, Maria and I repaired to the apartment of a volunteer and set up in his living room. Stacy laid out a sewing needle, alcohol (for sterilization), a spool of white thread, and a bottle of India ink. I propped my leg up on the table and pushed up my purple flannel serwals (Moroccan bloomers). Stacy drew the design on the inside of my ankle with a red pen, and asked if I was sure this was what I wanted. I was. Frog - associated with fertility
I have never been comfortable around needles - the whole idea of sharp objects piercing my skin, no matter how medically necessary, has always made me profoundly uneasy. So why wasn’t I nervous about what lay ahead? Stacy was going to plunge a needle into my skin repeatedly over the Page 20 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 17) in Moroccan carpets love them on other hand-made rugs, they could be forces of modernism had finally account of their hot colors, and their the perfect point and counterpoint to achieved wide acceptance in the often highly individualized and the larger architectural themes. They United States. Though asymmetric patterns. They are were visually strong enough to hold unrecognizable to much of the unapologetic and sometimes their own against the modernist American public, Moroccan rugs were unabashedly bold, even loud. backdrop, but it was also to a large used fairly often. Today, designers Interestingly though, it was not the degree their anonymity, and their very seem to be reviving the modernist characteristic of standing out that the everydayness, that allowed Moroccan look and blending it with all sorts of modern designers sought and found in carpets to be integrated into the contemporary decorating styles. Beni Moroccan rugs, but rather their ability to modern architectural environment. Ouarain, High Atlas and Middle Atlas blend in or integrate. Abstract and This, of course, is in addition to the pile rugs are being used once again. simple in pattern, warm in color and fact that they were, and remain, most Most of us with a special interest texture, and inexpensive compared with pleasing to the eye.
Making Connections By Bob Zambrano driver on how best to get us there and inspiration and hope to the children. we set off to find it. They have role models at the school , On our recent OCTOBER TOUR, I We arrived at the end of the school but know of few successful deaf made two side trips which I hope will day. The children were being people outside of their community. We start a continued association dismissed. I spoke to the director of the at Gallaudet are not only trying to between Morocco and Gallaudet school. She related how that very provide them with the CDs, but we are University. The University is the sole morning she had been trying to get in working to set up an internship institution in the world for the deaf touch with Gallaudet University on the program with the school which would which confers a Liberal Arts degree. Internet. S he had been unable to make send our deaf undergraduate students Soon after my return from Peace contact, so was pleased that we had to work at the school. Such programs Corp service in Morocco, I began shown up. We made plans to come exist in other countries, so we are teaching at Gallaudet. It is not back the next day. hopeful it will only be a matter of time unusual, therefore, that I would want My visit the following day was eye before the children at the school will to visit institutions which could opening. The director introduced me to meet our deaf college students. It benefit from an association with our the all deaf staff and her hearing should prove to be a mutual growing institution. To such an end, I visited assistant. The teachers were busy experience for both. In addition we are three English Language Centers and teaching the children Arabic sign investigating the possibility of three schools which had a deaf language. I noticed some of the signs establishing a FULBRIGHT program student population. Two institutions used were shared by American Sign which would bring teachers of the deaf in Agadir truly captured my interest. Language. I later discovered that the in Morocco to Gallaudet to study and On our arrival in Agadir, Brenda book being used was translated in return to Morocco with up-to-date Bryant Petta, whose assignment as a Tetuan in northern Morocco by two information and technical skills. PCV was Agadir, volunteered to assist Peace Corps volunteers. This trip and visits have started me in locating the school for the deaf. Understandably the text was a many new possibilities. What I am As it turned out, the school had been combination of Arabic and American finding is all requires relocated and was under the and French signs. time and funding. Things are moving supervision of a volunteer group of I was impressed that the school along slowly. If anyone is interested in parents and was now a multiply- was autonomous. It was begun by a helping the schools, I would be glad to handicapped school. We, after much deaf gentleman with the idea of being provide addresses and more details. If difficulty, found the school and were run by the deaf for the deaf. This fact you are planning a trip to Agadir, I given the grand tour by its director. was a strong source of inspiration and would be glad to write a letter of We were very impressed by the care pride to all involved. It continues to be introduction. Both schools welcome and assistance the children showed administered by a deaf Board and visitors because the students are one another. It truly was inspiring to funded through donations with little proud to show off their schools. One of watch these multiply-handicapped help from government funds. They the directors remarked youngsters ministering to the needs have managed to become a noted that "Visitors bring ENCOURAGEMENT of each other. At the end of our visit, organization in Agadir and are included and HOPE to our students". As former an assistant to the director in all major celebrations and parades. PCVs, we know how much both help in mentioned that there was indeed At the end of our visit, the director making positive change. another school exclusively for deaf requested a CD ROM of deaf children children. They instructed our cab and adults which would serve as Contact Bob at
New Organization Connects MBA Grads with Small Businesses
The MBA Corps is a nationwide * General Strategy mbacorps.org
By Rick Gold (Rabat 1988-92) general, however, Arabs and Jews in the late 15th century, following the developed mutually supportive roles arrival of Jews expelled from Spain, Jews have been a vital part of within urban society, although they lived there were 80 to 100,000 Jews out of Moroccan society ever since they clearly in separate cultural worlds. a total population of 3 to 4 million. arrived over 2,000 years ago. Each Under Islam, Jews were considered Jews at that time constituted no more time a new people extended their dhimmis, a protected, but disdained than 3.5% of the population. power over Morocco, Jews were called people. Within certain limits, Islamic law In the 1850's, Morocco had upon to carry out important allows the free exercise of Judaism and about 80,000 Jews, making up commercial, financial and diplomatic gives Jews the right to practice their approximately 2 percent of the functions. For this reason, Moroccan traditions, hold property, govern their population. Nearly 75 percent of Jews generally felt "at home" in their community and enforce their own civil law Jews lived in urban areas. In some country and welcomed Jewish refugees system. Under the rules governing cities, such as Marrakesh, Fez, from other countries into their dhimmis, Jews must recognize Islamic Meknes and Rabat, they constituted communities, except during periods of sovereignty, show respect for Islam, 10-15 percent of the population. insecurity. exercise their religion discretely, refrain The Jewish population was at its Moroccan leaders have shown a from proselytizing, pay special taxes and height in 1952, when 218,000 were special interest in assuring the security wear special clothing. These rules were counted in censuses of French and of the Jewish community. When Jews rarely applied to the letter, although they Spanish Morocco and the were used as scapegoats for remained the law until the French made international city of Tangier. The complaints against government abuse, Morocco a protectorate in 1912. methodology of these censuses is the authorities took strong steps to To the Jewish community, the Sultan questionable, and most analysts protect them from attack. By was its salvation. By paying heavy taxes, assume there were about 300,000 guaranteeing the safety of the Jews, the community secured its right to Jews in the early 1950’s. Jews at that Moroccan leaders believed they were practice Judaism and live in peace. At time were less than 1.5 percent of contributing to the stability of their times, almost 50% of government the population. regimes. revenues came from Jews. In some ways, Today, following the emigration to Berbers, Arabs and Jews are the Jews lived in greater security than Israel, France and Canada of tens of peoples that together have built Muslims. They had less danger of thousands of Moroccan Jews during Morocco. The Berbers are believed to individual persecution, although their the 1950's and 1960's, the country's have migrated to Morocco from the neighborhoods were occasionally pillaged. 4,500 Jews are a minuscule minority Middle East over 3,500 years ago. They also were able to gain access to the within a population of over 24 million. Prior to the Arab conquest in the eighth authorities and obtain justice more easily The remaining Jews in Morocco are century, several Berber tribes than Muslims. However, while many almost totally urban-based, with the converted to Judaism. Once Arabs Sultans treated Jews with a great deal of vast majority living in Casablanca. populated Moroccan cities, Jews tolerance, Jews often experienced strong Other cities, such as Fez, Marrakesh, played an important role in commerce pressure to convert to Islam. Meknes, Rabat and Tangier, have between them and the Berbers. Together, Jews and Muslims rode the about 300 each. Small cities and Jewish traders were rarely harmed, cycles of Moroccan history. Typically, towns, such as Kenitra, Agadir, and and even in times of instability, they there was a calm period, characterized by Tetuan, each have Jewish populations were able to use their special a sense of ease, security and even of less than 100. Casablanca is the relationships with Berber leaders to prosperity for much of the population. center of the country's religious and travel safely. When competing claimants to the Throne communal life, with several The Arabs came to Morocco from challenged a ruler’s claim to power, the community organizations and many the Middle East to extend both their country often would be thrown into chaos, synagogues. power and their religion over the land. when no one could live in security. Jews, Due to the emigration of the While some Jewish Berber tribes however, would be more vulnerable than majority of middle and lower-middle converted, many Jews refused to give Muslims to attacks. Once a new ruler class families, the remaining Jews are up their religion. Over time, the established his authority, both Jews and either relatively well-off compared to majority of Jews moved from rural Muslims would attempt to regain their the majority of Moroccan Muslims or areas to Arab-controlled towns and previous living standards. Under these poor enough to qualify for public cities, where they fell under the circumstances, many Jews were reduced assistance. Few Jewish children protection of the Sultans. As Sultans to poverty and could not escape. remain in Morocco after graduation tried to extend their power over rural from high school, resulting in a Berber tribes, occasionally the tribes The Demographics of Moroccan Jews population that has few young adults. would attack the cities, using Jews as For the country as a whole, Jews were As a result, it is becoming increasingly scapegoats for their problems. In always a tiny minority. It is estimated that (Continued on page 23) Page 23 Friends of Morocco
(Continued from page 22) fiction. Israel manipulated the messianic in independent Morocco. difficult for the Jewish community to feelings of the rural Jews. In the face of maintain the organizations and increasing poverty and a second-class Rick Gold has put together a institutions required to preserve its status in Moroccan society, these Jews fascinating website on Morocco’s unique Jewish identity. were offered the hope of social Jewish population, http://rickgold. improvement in Israel. Belying the claim home.mindspring.com . The site The Emigration of Jews from Morocco of Zionist recruiters that they had saved explores the role, history and Emigration to Israel was not the result the lives of Moroccan Jews, those Jews emigration of Moroccan Jews. It of a strong commitment to political who remained were able to maintain provides a guide to cities and towns Zionism. Instead, it was based on the their culture and communities and live in throughout the country that once had fear of possible violence, the hope of safety. Many middle-class Jews left for a significant Jewish presence. For finding more lucrative employment and France and Canada in the 1960s, rather teachers of 3rd and 6th graders, it the despair of the poor. Jews than move to Israel. Tragically, it was not contains teaching guides. It also emigrating from the Berber areas of only mass emigration that prevented the provides such resources as community the South appeared to be pawns of the complete integration of Jews into contacts, a description of the Jewish Jewish elite, and their fate was the independent Morocco. Although museum and foundation in result of negotiations by the elite and Mohammed V and his descendants were Casablanca, an extensive bibliography the State with Zionist groups and genuinely committed to protecting the and weblinks. This is an excerpt from Israel. Zionist emissaries helped Jews, the nationalist movements and his website. create a climate of fear between Jews later the Moroccan political parties never and Muslims based on both fact and offered Jews a meaningful political role
Bridges Between Cultures - A Video by Dan Cahill Dan Cahill filmed video during the (Kenitra 68-70) chronicled the trip. It showings indicate the video has utility Moroccan-American Friendship Tour in includes interviews and reflections of the for RPCV speakers kits, Peace Corps November 2001. It includes RPCVs and RPCV family members who Day, Peace Corps recruitment, tourism interviews and reflections of the RPCVs were on the tour as well as Moroccans promotion, cross-cultural discussions and RPCV family members who were encountered. There are three basic and mitigation of the adverse effect of on the tour as well as Moroccans sections to the 25 minute resulting the "war on terrorism". encountered. video, which are separated by black Copies of the Video can be FOM has received a $1000 NPCA screens: A) reflections on Peace Corps secured from Dan Cahill for $10 in Continuation of Service grant to service in Morocco in retrospect B) DVD (preferred) or, if necessary, VHS support the outreach, dissemination thoughts and feelings from Americans including postage at daniel.cahill@nyu. and use of this product. In early and Moroccans on 9/11 and C) Morocco edu or (212) 998 6317. Details at November 2001, FOM sent a and its culture. http://home.att.net/~morocco/Souk/ delegation of returned Morocco Peace Initial screenings at the NPCA 40+1 Tour2002/bridges.htm. Corps volunteers to Morocco on a Celebration Country of Service Update in "Moroccan American Friendship tour". June 2002, the Moroccan community Professional filmmaker (an Cahill remembrance of 9/11/2002 and other
Nominations for Friends of Morocco Board of Directors Needed Friends of Morocco bylaws provide Directors appoint the Executive include a short biodata and goals/ for the election of three at-large Committee which includes the President, objectives for FOM. Members of the Board of Directors. If Secretary and Treasurer and other you would like to nominate yourself or officers as necessary. someone, with his or her consent, the The current procedure for the Board election will be held associated with of Directors has been to meet via the National all years gathering periodic telephone conference calls, "Itjimaa 2003" which will be in Kansas email queries and at annual meetings. City, Missouri on June 13-15, 2003. There is no geographic restriction to According to the Friends of serve for both directors and officers. Morocco Articles of Incorporation and If you are interested in becoming Corporate Bylaws (both documents are more involved in Friends of Morocco, available on the FOM website and in please contact Tim Resch at hard copy upon request), the Board of
Membership in Friends of Morocco brings you, in addition to all issues of our newsletter, special mailings announcing the annual meeting, reunions, seminars, and special Moroccan arts and craft showings. Friends of Morocco Newsletter is published quarterly by the Friends Membership also brings you the satisfaction of contributing to the goals of Morocco and is circulated to its members and other interested and aims of Friends of Morocco. At least once a year we do a system- parties. The organization was formed in 1988 to reunite PCVs who have served in Morocco, to inform members about current events wide mailing to keep our address database accurate and to give people and conditions in Morocco, to promote a better understanding of the opportunity to join us. The mailing label below indicates when your Morocco and Moroccans on the part of Americans, and to fund or membership expires otherwise support development activities in Morocco. Membership is $15 annually. FOM is governed by a nine-member national advi- If you have not paid your membership dues of $15.00 (individual) sory board. Mailing address: Friends of Morocco, P.O. Box 2579, annually to the Friends of Morocco, please consider doing that now. We Washington, DC 20013-2579. For further information, contact appreciate any additional contributions and recognize special president Tim Resch at 703-660-9292 or by email
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