HABIA Hairdressing And Beauty Industry Authority
Safe Use of Lasers and Intense Pulsed Light Equipment P3 Consumer Services Industry Authority 2003 Fraser House, Nether Hall Road, Doncaster DN1 2PH Tel: 01302 380000 Fax: 01302 380028 [email protected] www.habia.org.uk
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Disclaimer The Consumer Services Industry Authority has used every effort to avoid errors and to ensure that the contents of this booklet are accurate and complete. However, the Consumer Services Industry Authority gives no warranty and accepts no liability for errors or omissions. Readers should not use this booklet as a substitute for expert advice in appropriate circumstances.
HABIA Hairdressing And Beauty Industry Authority HABIA Spain, HABIA Italy, HABIA East, Hairdressing And Beauty OMAT (Organización Mundial de Artes éycnicas) T A.E.S S.r.l. Kanagawa Prefecture Industry Authority is a trading Evaristo San Miguel 18. 28008 Madrid, Spain Via G. Vittorio, 2/D - 42100 Reggio Emilia. Italy Yokohama City. Nakaku Honmoku, Osato-cho 10-8-4 B Tel>0522 616506Fax>0522 922002 name of Consumer Services Tel>3491 547 3292Fax>3491 547 8402 Tel>045 661 1214Fax>045 661 1214 email>[email protected]>www.aessrl.it Industry Authority email>[email protected]>www.omat.net email>[email protected]>www.habia-east.org 1. Contents
1. CONTENTS...... P1 Foreword ...... P3 Acknowledgements ...... P4 2. INTRODUCTION...... P5 Regulations ...... P8 3. GUIDANCE ON TREATMENTS ...... P10 3.1. How does laser and intense pulsed light hair removal work?...... P10 3.2. Is the treatment suitable for everyone? ...... P11 3.3. How many treatments are needed? ...... P12 3.4. Is it permanent?...... P13 3.5. Which areas can be treated?...... P14 3.6. How long does a treatment take?...... P14 3.7. Is treatment painful?...... P15 3.8. Can my client remove hair between treatments?...... P15 3.9. What are protocols and who should write them? ...... P16 3.10. Why do I need to carry out a test patch before starting treatment? ...... P18 3.11. Should I take photographs of my treatments?...... P20 3.12. Why do some hair removal systems use gel?...... P22 3.13. What does a typical treatment involve?...... P22 3.14. How should the skin look after treatment?...... P24 3.15. What aftercare advice should I give my client?...... P26 3.16. What is an adverse reaction to treatment? ...... P27 P1 4. CONTRA-INDICATIONS...... P30 4.1. Are there any contra-indications for laser and intense pulsed light hair removal? ...... P30 5. EQUIPMENT AND LEGAL ISSUES ...... P36 5.1. What should I look for when buying a hair removal system? ...... P36 5.2. What is the difference between a laser and an intense pulsed light system?...... P38 5.3. Why is there so much ‘jargon’ around lasers and intense pulsed light equipment? ...... P39 5.4. Are lasers and intense pulsed light systems dangerous and can I use them anywhere in my salon or clinic?...... P40 5.5. Are there any legal requirements for providing a laser or intense pulsed light hair removal service? ...... P42 5.6. How can I show that I am meeting the National Minimum Standards? ...... P48 5.7. What training do I need to carry out treatments?...... P50 5.8. Do I need a medically qualified person working with me? ...... P52 6. FUTURE DEVELOPMENTS ...... P54 6.1. What new or future treatments might I be able to offer?...... P54 7. GLOSSARY OF LASER & INTENSE PULSED LIGHT TERMS...... P56 8. NATIONAL OCCUPATIONAL STANDARDS (NOS)...... P64
P2 Foreword
There has been an enormous growth in demand for intense pulsed light and laser treatments in the past few years, and employers had expressed to us their desire for better guidance on their correct use.
HABIA’s first response was to ensure that the use of intense pulsed light and laser treatments became part of the National Occupational Standards, the basis for all vocational beauty qualifications.
As a result, techniques in intense pulsed light and lasers are due to be a part of the new Beauty Level 4 Standards (from February 2004).
HABIA’s next response was to develop this booklet, designed specifically to give you no-nonsense, straightforward guidance on the new standards, as well as advice on the application of the Care Standards Act to beauty salons.
Together, this booklet and the new standards will help ensure that beauty salons have the competent and knowledgeable staff needed to tap into this growth market and perform intense pulsed light and laser treatments with safety and confidence.
John Gray Director, Oxford Hair Foundation
P3 Acknowledgements
We would like to thank Dr Elizabeth Raymond who has written this booklet in collaboration with HABIA. Elizabeth has a background in laser science and laser safety and has been involved with European wide projects in laser training and education.
Elizabeth acts in an advisory capacity to a number of companies and was a key member of the team who wrote the National Occupational Standards for HABIA.
Whilst Head of Lasers at The Laser Centre, Loughborough College, Elizabeth was responsible for the development and delivery of the first nationally recognised qualifications in skin laser therapies, laser and intense pulsed light hair removal and laser safety.
Elizabeth continues to develop and offer qualifications and courses in laser and intense pulsed light therapies from The Laser Training and Education Centre at The Mapperley Park Clinic, Nottingham. The Centre provides theoretical and practical training within a clinical environment for the beauty and medical sectors.
In addition HABIA would like to thank the many companies who provided the illustrative photographs used within the booklet. Each of the photographs is credited individually.
P4 2. Introduction
If you look through any beauty publication, women’s magazine, health magazine or medical journal, the chances are that you will find an article about laser or intense pulsed light treatments. The number of new treatments and procedures using lasers or intense pulsed light technology is increasing rapidly and crosses both the beauty therapy and medical sectors. For example – vision and eyesight correction, removing birthmarks and tattoos, treating red veins and skin lesions, surgical procedures, treating cancers and tumours, wound healing and treating sports injuries, improving the appearance of skin, treating active acne or improving acne scarring and, of course, hair removal.
Overleaf are some of the treatments currently using laser or intense pulsed light equipment.
P5 Here are some of the treatments currently using laser or intense pulsed light equipment:
TREATMENT TECHNOLOGY
Vascular treatments • Dye lasers, Frequency port wine stains, telangectasia, doubled Nd:YAG lasers, thread veins, leg veins intense pulsed light
Pigmented treatments • Q switched ruby, Nd:YAG tattoo removal, pigmented or Alexandrite lasers lesions such as café au lait macules, lentignes, photo-ageing
Ablative treatment • Carbon dioxide laser, removal of epidermal layers to Er:YAG laser reduce wrinkles and facial lines, treatment of acne scarring, wart removal, benign lesions
Photo-rejuvenation • Intense pulsed light photo-ageing, roscea, large pores, mottled pigmentation
Hair removal • Intense pulsed light, diode body and facial hair, hair lasers, Nd:YAG lasers, management for hirsutism Alexandrite lasers
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As a quick guide – In April 2002 a new law came into has developed National if a word or phrase effect – the Care Standards Occupational Standards and appears in bold text you will find its Act 2000. This law and its guidance for qualified beauty definition in the supporting Regulations include therapists for hair removal and Glossary! significant legal requirements for photo-rejuvenation treatments. the safe and correct use of laser Only these non-invasive and intense pulsed light treatments are considered equipment. Lasers and intense appropriate in the beauty sector pulsed light systems are powerful and HABIA recommends that only devices and in the wrong hands, beauty therapists who have or used in the wrong way, are qualified in electrolysis should capable of serious injury to our progress to become laser and eyes, our skin and our tissues. intense pulsed light practitioners. Because of this potential for harm, The most important criteria for it is important that we recognise offering a laser or intense pulsed and distinguish between invasive light hair removal service is that and non-invasive, cosmetic-type your facility is registered with the procedures. Beauty therapists National Care Standards should be very clear as to where, Commission (NCSC) in England how and by whom particular (or equivalent body in Scotland, treatments should be carried out. Wales or Northern Ireland) and The Hairdressing And Beauty that it meets the National Industry Authority (HABIA) Minimum Standards (NMS). take this responsibility seriously and
P8 Although laser and intense pulsed legal and safety requirements and The new National light hair removal is seen as a the need to follow best practice. It Occupational Standards developed by HABIA set potentially lucrative market, you should give you a good out the recommended must do your research thoroughly introduction to the subject and best practice for the use of lasers and intense to ensure you have the correct hopefully answer many of the pulsed light treatments facilities, staff, equipment, safety questions that salon owners have for hair removal and training for the job – when they are thinking of investing treatments and photo-rejuvenation. otherwise, at best you may in this technology or expanding damage your business or suffer their treatments to include laser or financial loss – at worst, you may intense pulsed light hair removal. It damage a client. Because the range will not make you an expert of treatments and equipment is practitioner – that takes time, constantly being increased and training and practice – but it will improved, make sure you stay up- give you the information you need to-date and knowledgeable by to make informed choices and joining professional organisations, decisions if you plan to undertake subscribing to trade journals and these rewarding and worthwhile newsletters, attending training or treatments. study days and exhibitions.
This booklet is designed to help you with your research. The aim is to introduce the use of lasers and intense pulsed light systems for hair removal in a clinic or salon environment. It stresses the need to understand and comply with the
P9 Light energy is absorbed by the hair pigment and converted to heat energy. 3. Guidance on treatments The follicle will be damaged if it is heated sufficiently which reduces its ability to re-grow hair. 3.1 How does laser and intense pulsed light hair removal work? It is essential that the surrounding tissues are not also damaged by the Lasers and intense pulsed light of the hair follicle is raised to To provide safe and effective light energy and cooling systems can both provide very around 70ºC for the correct length treatments the light energy must devices or gels may be effective treatments for hair removal of time, the follicle will be be delivered to the skin in the right necessary - especially for darker skin types. if you use them in the right way on damaged and its ability to re-grow way. You will need to learn how to clients with appropriate hair and a hair significantly reduced. adjust the settings on your system skin types. An essential reference to suit your client’s skin type and The most effective time for for current best practice for beauty skin and hair colour. If you do not treatment is thought to be when therapists wanting to learn to use deliver the light in the right way the hair is in the active growing, or laser and intense pulsed light there is a risk of blistering or ‘anagen’ phase. Anagen hair systems are the National burning the skin or causing contains the most melanin and is Occupational Standards developed pigmentation changes, resulting in better at absorbing light energy by The Hairdressing And lighter or darker patches of skin than hair in the resting (catagen) or Beauty Industry Authority which can take many months to shedding (telogen) phase. This (HABIA). clear. explains why laser and intense The laser or intense pulsed light pulsed light hair removal is not a delivers a pulse or several pulses of one-off treatment. Hair follicles light energy into the skin where that are resting or shedding will not it is absorbed by the pigment in be significantly affected by the light the hair follicle and, to a lesser energy and will re-grow in time. extent, by the surrounding tissues. The light energy is converted to heat energy and if the temperature
P10 3.2 Is the treatment suitable for everyone?
The general rule is that the hair your client information leaflets or Clients who are pregnant are not More information about adverse reactions can be colour should be darker than the advertising materials you may be ideal for treatment because of the found in Section 4.16. skin colour. Treatment is most asked to defend this by the hormonal and pigmentary changes For contra-indications to effective when there is good National Care Standards that can occur during pregnancy. treatment see Section 5.1 contrast between the hair colour Commission (NCSC) inspectors.
Court and skin colour – making black hair esy o f E Clients with darker skin types llip Female test client. se P in pale skin the ideal combination u may absorb too much light ls After four treatments e d L to treat. i she was so satisfied g energy in the skin and are more h t & that she declined
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type of system to treat very dark m e n as electrolysis, for these hair types. t treated. skin types. Some newer laser and intense Courtes y of Clients with a suntan in the Se pulsed light systems claim to work em Upper lip on a skin type a H treatment area should not be e V after four treatments. on blonde or grey hair. As the a lt h treated until their tan has faded. & Laser and intense pulsed B technology develops this may e a light treatment of darker
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t become possible but you should Clients taking certain medications y skin types is possible always ask your supplier for clinical with appropriate may not be suitable for treatment. equipment settings and studies or pictures to support their Your clinic should have treatment effective skin cooling. equipment claims. If you include protocols which list the statements that you can treat all medications or conditions that skin types or all hair colours in would contra-indicate treatment. P11 3.3 How many treatments are needed?
You will need to offer your client a resting or shedding. When your course of treatments because client visits again, typically 4 - 6 ANAGEN individual hairs go through a cycle of weeks after the first treatment, growth. Most salons and clinics different hairs will have moved into recommend a course of 4 - 6 the growing phase and will respond treatments for the best, longer-term well to treatment. So over the results. But the hair growth cycle course of the 4 - 6 treatments you varies in different areas of the body will target hairs as they come into and is affected by ethnic origin, age the growing phase and significantly CATAGEN and hormones. Depending on reduce their ability to re-grow. these factors some clients may Your client information leaflets need more or less treatments should include this sort of because each individual will respond information to make it clear that it is differently to treatment. Your client not a one-off treatment and that consultation and informed results can vary from person to consent must explain why a person. TELOGEN course of treatments is necessary and set realistic expectations and outcomes.
Hair removal is thought to be most You will need to offer Treatment is thought to be most effective effective when the hair is actively your client a course of in the anagen, or growing phase. Each growing, so on the first treatment treatments because successive treatment will result in long individual hairs go term hair reduction. Many clients find that the light energy will damage the through a growth cycle. remaining hair becomes finer and less growing hairs but not those that are pigmented as treatment progresses. P12 3.4 Is it permanent?
This is always a difficult question to the initial course of treatments is Remember that if you use answer! Clinical and research complete. Equally, if your client is the word ‘permanent’ in your advertising material or studies have proved that laser and taking certain medications or has a offer guarantees on hair intense pulsed light treatments can medical condition that affects hair removal, you may have to defend this if a client is not significantly reduce the rate of hair growth, the treatment may be less happy with your service. growth compared to other successful. removal methods such as waxing These factors can make it difficult and shaving. It has also been to describe the treatment as shown that re-growth in the ‘permanent’ so it is wiser to talk treatment area is finer and softer as about hair management or hair a result of treatment. reduction as this will give your Hair removal by laser and intense client a more realistic picture of Long term hair reduction light is a relatively new treatment what laser and intense pulsed light is possible with laser and so it might be too early to talk treatments can achieve. intense pulsed light treatments. about ‘permanence’. Treatment Courtes y of D avi d M success varies from person to cD an ie l M person and relies upon careful D , L a s e client selection, setting realistic r C
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P13 Co urtes y of Th Most parts of the body can e L as er C be treated if the skin and e n t r hair are appropriate. e 3.5 Which areas can be treated?
Most areas can be treated if the The National Occupational hair and skin type are suitable but Standards developed by HABIA you should not treat very close to are a useful reference for current the eyes or over the mucous best practice for beauty therapists membranes such as in the nose wanting to work with laser and or ears. intense pulsed light systems. Cou rtesy of A cu lig ht The most common areas for treatment are legs, back, underarms, bikini area, chin, top lip, beard area, chest and abdomen.
3.6 How long does a treatment take?
This depends on which area you For example, a system that fires are treating and on the spot size two pulses a second is twice as fast
Co of the treatment beam. A small area as one pulse every second. For urtes y of Ly nt on such as a top lip can be as quick as large treatment areas such as backs La se rs 15 minutes whilst a full back might and legs this can significantly reduce take up to two hours to treat your treatment time and help to depending upon the laser or maximise your income. intense pulsed light system Ask your equipment manufacturer you have. or supplier about treatment speed Most lasers and intense pulsed light and treatment area for their systems can operate at different particular equipment – this will help speeds (pulse repetition rates). you plan your treatment times and fees when comparing systems. P14 3.7 Is treatment painful?
Most clients say they experience a longer than pale skin types. You Many laser and intense pulsed Many laser and intense tingling, ‘hot’ sensation. Some may need to use cooling gels or light systems have built-in pulsed light treatments have in-built cooling to describe it as a sharp, brief cold compresses to soothe and cooling on the treatment reduce discomfort and pinprick, or an elastic band flicking protect the skin after treatment. handpiece to reduce discomfort help protect the epidermis during against the skin. However, most and reduce the chances of skin Areas that have a greater hair treatment. This picture clients say it is less painful than damage during and after treatment. shows a cooled laser density, eg, the beard area, can be waxing or electrolysis. This is a useful feature to look for tip used in contact more uncomfortable than other with clear gel. when choosing equipment for Once the light energy has done its treatment areas because the heat Cou your salon or clinic. rtesy of D job it is important to remove the can build up and be retained for r E Ra ym o heat from the skin. This is longer. Offer cooling gels or nd absolutely essential if you treat additional cooling to soothe darker skin types which retain heat the skin.
3.8 Can my client remove hair between treatments?
You must advise your client not to Some salons allow clients to use pluck or wax between treatments bleach or depilatory creams but because these methods pull the not immediately prior to a hair from the follicle – and this is treatment. thought to make treatment less After the first or second treatment effective. Your clients can shave or some salons ask their clients to trim hairs between treatments. shave in readiness for their treatment to keep the appointment time to a minimum and maximise their fees. P15 3.9 What are protocols and who should write them?
The National Care Standards to have a formal written statement To comply with the legal Commission (NCSC) recognise that describes exactly what you do requirements ensure that your that lasers and intense pulsed when you carry out a treatment. protocol includes information on: light systems are used in a Standard P1 of the National Contra-indications variety of settings for a variety of Minimum Standards states that: Technique purposes, including beauty salons “A protocol produced by an expert Pre-treatment tests and clinics offering minimally or medical or dental practitioner is Post-treatment care non-invasive services (such as hair followed which sets out the Recognition of treatment- removal) which do not require the necessary pre-treatment checks related problems operator to be medically qualified. and tests, the manner in which the Procedure if anything goes However, because laser and procedure is to be applied, the wrong with treatment intense pulsed light equipment has acceptable variations in the settings Permitted variation on machine the potential to cause serious used, and when to abort a variables injury, the NCSC insist upon treatment.” Procedure in the event of regulation and inspection to ensure equipment failure. safety. This includes the Many of the equipment requirement that laser and intense manufacturers and suppliers pulsed light practitioners follow provide outline treatment settings protocols that are supported by or guides on how to use their written procedures. equipment correctly and safely and many salons and clinics use these A protocol is a precise and detailed as their protocols. Other clinics plan that is followed when may appoint a medical adviser or undertaking a treatment. In consultant to help them develop practice this means you will need protocols. P16 Once you have the protocol you that everyone must follow when Remember – the most will need to develop some written working with laser or intense important thing about protocols or procedures procedures for how you use the pulsed light equipment in the salon is that they set out laser or intense pulsed light or clinic. They tell you who can exactly what you do – and that you do exactly equipment. These written use the equipment, what to do if what they say! So make procedures must cover: you have an accident, how to start sure you get them right. up and close down equipment, The potential hazards from how to check and maintain lasers and intense pulsed light equipment, what the hazards are systems and who is responsible for safety. Details of the controlled area and access procedures Accurate and detailed protocols Methods of safe working and procedures are an essential Safety checks element of your hair removal Normal operating procedures service. Take time to develop them Personal protective and check them and get people equipment less familiar with the procedures to Prevention of use by read through them to see if they unauthorised persons and are clear and easy to follow. Adverse incident procedures.
Most of these details are normally included within the ‘Local Rules’ for each controlled area. Local rules are exactly what the name suggests – the rules or procedures P17 3.10 Why do I need to carry out a test patch before starting treatment?
You will need to carry out a test treatment. Your protocols should patch to determine the right set out exactly how the test patch treatment parameters and to judge is performed, including: which how the skin (and client!) might areas to test, the laser or intense react to full treatment. pulsed light settings, how long to wait to judge skin response, how A test patch is a small trial in an to spot adverse reactions. area with similar hair and skin to the treatment site. Typically a few You must record the equipment discrete pulses are delivered to the settings accurately and carefully but skin – with careful recording of the the most important factor is to test settings – which allows the in an area that has similar hair and practitioner to assess how well the skin as the treatment area. The light energy is being absorbed test patch is also a good way for and whether the skin is responding your clients to experience the as would be expected. A ‘normal’ ‘pricking’ sensation and it lets you skin response could include judge their tolerance to treatment. follicular erythema (redness) and localised swelling (oedema) around the follicles. Darker skin types can take longer to show a response than paler skin types, so always give the test patch time to develop before rushing into
P18 Many salons and clinics test patch treatment, you should record the Remember – even during the initial consultation client’s reaction to the test patch though a test patch may not show an adverse (which you can only do after and if necessary adjust your reaction this does not gaining informed consent) and treatment settings accordingly. guarantee that a full treatment will always be arrange for the client to return If you are treating more than one without complications. within a given time after the test Cou rtesy area on a client you must test of D patch. For the paler skin types a r E Ra patch each different treatment ym o n delay of one week is typical, d area. An armpit might show a very whereas darker skin types may be different reaction from an upper lip asked to wait for two weeks because of the difference in skin before returning for assessment type and hair density. and treatment. This delay between test patch and full treatment is an important opportunity to assess the longer-term reaction of the skin to the light and the client should make a note of any redness A test patch is an essential part of your or swelling and how long it takes protocols as it allows you to reduce, whether the skin to assess how the skin blistered or felt excessively hot and responds to the light energy. The test patch for how long. It is also an can be in a discrete area opportunity for the client to be but it must have representative hair and sure they want to proceed with skin to the actual treatment. When the client returns treatment area. and before you start the first P19 3.11 Should I take photographs of my treatments?
Close-up photographs of the Good quality photographs will If your client returns complaining of treatment area are an essential part show: pigmentation changes, blisters or of your client records and skin damage you should The condition of skin and hair treatment plans. photograph the area and take prior to treatment – and careful notes. In extreme cases It is best practice to take whether it was suitable to treat you may need to refer your client photographs of the treatment area Patches or areas of skin in the on for further advice – your before the hair is shaved or treatment that should be protocols should include this sort trimmed and before the client avoided, eg, skin tags, moles, of detail so that you know exactly starts a course of treatments. This tattoos what to do and how to proceed if is a very valuable record for you The expected ‘normal’ skin a client shows an adverse reaction. and your client to see how reaction to treatment – treatment is progressing. You will eg, some redness, localised need to use a good quality camera swelling around the follicle or with a flash. Choose one with a some dark hair ‘splatters’ on A good quality photograph with lens that can take normal and the surface of the skin accurate labelling is a very valuable record of your treatment close-up pictures, eg, of small Immediate after-effects of Cour outcomes and tesy of D r E treatment areas such as the chin or treatment if you think the skin success. Ra ym o n upper lip. Use good quality film has reacted badly – d and processing and always use the eg, blistering, excessive swelling flash. or redness, skin whitening or greying Whether the course of treatments has been effective and achieved a hair growth reduction. P20 Your client might be concerned The client records that you take You will have to keep your client Remember, you may about having their photograph must be kept and made available records for up to eight years need to use your photographic records to taken. You should reassure them to the National Care depending upon the age of the show that you have about confidentiality, security and Standards Commission client when they finish their acted with integrity and competence if a client anonymity: (NCSC). One of the National treatment – so it might be worth complains about your Minimum Standards (C29) considering storage space if you service or your Take ‘close-up’ photographs of requires that your salon or clinic are planning a new laser or intense treatments. just the treatment area so that has a policy for creating, managing, pulsed light facility. the client cannot be easily handling, storing and destroying identified You should refer to the Care records to meet the legal Use numbers or codes on the Standards Act 2000 and the requirements and professional photograph label and not the supporting regulations to make practice recommendations. The client name sure you meet the legal most important thing is to make Keep photographs with the requirements for which documents sure your records are clear and client record, stored safely and you must keep and for how long accurate and that they are dated, securely in accordance with the you must keep them. timed, signed and legible. Data Protection Act 1998 and the National Minimum The HABIA website has useful links Standards. and information about client records and the Data Protection Act 1998.
P21 3.12 Why do some hair removal systems use gel?
Cou rtesy of D r E A layer of gel is often used to help must be an experienced user for Ra ym o n d ‘direct’ the light energy into the this technique. skin. Gel can also give a cooling The gels you use must be effect if the system does not have completely clear and colourless. built-in cooling. You must ask your client about any For treating large areas such as the allergies – including use of gels – back, gel allows the user to ‘glide’ before you start treatment. the treatment handpiece which can reduce treatment times – but you Many laser and intense pulsed light 3.13 What does a typical treatment involve? systems use gel to direct the light Your clinic or salon must have or equipment supplier. If you do questions or concerns and gained energy into the skin and provide a written protocols that set out change your treatment protocols Informed Consent from the cooling effect. exactly how treatment is delivered you must make a careful record for client. including the laser or intense your NCSC evidence and make The National Occupational pulsed light settings for different sure that all the users know about Standards developed by HABIA skin types. You must follow these the changes. are produced by consultation with protocols. Before you can begin any industry experts and are reviewed If your protocols need to be treatments you must be certain regularly to provide a useful changed because you develop a that the client is suitable for reference for current best practice better or safer way of working, or treatment. You should have taken a for beauty therapists wanting to because your treatments are medical history, discussed the learn to use laser and intense ineffective or harmful, you should treatment, its benefits and risks, pulsed light systems. consult with your medical adviser identified skin type, answered any P22 A typical treatment routine might Shaving or trimming the hair in Scheduling the next include: the area appointment. Issuing appropriate protective Checking medical history and Remember that record keeping equipment such as eyewear that informed consent is still and documentation is an essential Setting treatment parameters valid, for example: that your according to skin type, hair part of your service. Only by client has not started certain type, test patch results, carefully documenting your medications, has recent sun previous treatment settings treatment settings and outcomes exposure, or is likely to be Applying gels to the treatment will you be able to judge the pregnant area if appropriate quality and effectiveness of your Preparing the client for Delivering the laser or intense service. You can then identify any treatment pulsed light beam according to problem areas or complications Cleaning or removing make-up treatment protocols that arise and by doing this your from the treatment area and Cleaning and soothing the treatments will become safer, marking-out or pre-cooling treatment area more reliable, more effective or the area for treatment if Photographing the area more repeatable. All of which Consultation, pre- necessary Providing aftercare advice leads to better client satisfaction! treatment procedures Labelling and photographing the Writing up client records and and aftercare are all area treatment plans part of a good treatment protocol. C C C ourt Court ourt Court ourt esy esy esy esy esy of of of of of M A Ac A Ac a cu u cu u p l l l l p ig ig ig ig e h h h h r t t t t le y P a r k
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P23 Normal erythema in two half-axilla treated areas produced by two different 810nm diode lasers at the same fluence, both using contact 3.14 How should the skin look after a treatment? transmission and contact cooling and roughly similar spot sizes, This depends upon the client skin Clients may experience the same time post treatment. type and the equipment you use following reactions to treatment: C ourtes y of Go dfr for treatment. A good ey T Skin redness – which can last ow n , manufacturer or supplier should F r a for several hours or a few days n k l y provide equipment manuals and n C Localised swelling around the o
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t Occasional blistering – this might indicate that subsequent treatment settings require After treatment the area may appear red with localised swelling around the follicle, there may be burnt stubble or temporary modification. crusting – although treatment endpoints can vary between different laser and intense pulsed light systems. P24 Not every client will show all of these reactions but this does not necessarily mean that treatment has not worked. You might find it useful to build up a collection of post-treatment photographs of normal and adverse reactions so that you can begin to identify typical treatment reactions.
Unlike electrolysis, the hairs that have been exposed to the light remain in the follicles after treatment. You should advise your client that these hairs will move to the surface and be shed over a one or two week period. Clients that are not warned about this often believe the treatment has Stop immediately if you increased their hair growth so will see significant skin be unhappy with your service. changes such as greying or whitening of the skin as A good aftercare advice leaflet can this may lead to blistering or pigmentation changes. help to answer your clients’ questions and reduce any anxieties they might have about what to expect after a treatment. P25 3.15 What aftercare advice should I give my client?
The most important post- You must stress to your client the To stop using sun beds and fake treatment advice you can importance of post-treatment care tanning products in the give is sun avoidance. Not only will a tan increase and ideally you will have an treatment area the risk of pigmentation aftercare leaflet that your client can To stop waxing or plucking hairs changes and adverse reactions but you will not take away with them. in the treatment area be able to treat a client To avoid hot baths, strong Because the treatment puts light with a suntan. The deodorants, heavily chlorinated consultation and post- energy into the skin it is important swimming pools or vigorous treatment advice should to advise your client not to do stress this to your client. exercise for 12 – 24 hours and anything that will add to the not to use make-up in the sensation of heat or irritate the treatment area for as long as area, so most clinics and salons can be avoided. After a offer the following post-treatment treatment these things can advice to their clients: irritate the skin and increase the To cool the area with soothing sensation of heat and gels, damp cotton pads or aloe discomfort vera if the hot sensation or To contact the clinic or salon if feeling of warmth remains after they experience excessive treatment blistering, crusting or swelling in To avoid sun exposure in the the treatment area. treatment area and to always wear a high factor sun protection cream (SPF 15 or higher) after and between treatments P26 3.16 What is an adverse reaction to treatment?
It is well proven that lasers and The target for treatment is Adverse reactions to treatment can intense pulsed light systems melanin, which is found in the include: can both provide very effective hair hair follicles and in the epidermis Excessive redness of the skin removal treatments on clients with – making the skin sensitive to (erythema) the appropriate hair and skin exposure from lasers and intense Excessive localised swelling type when used in conjunction pulsed light systems. Successful (perifollicular oedema) with the correct settings and treatment relies upon raising the Excessive urticarial reactions protocols. But with any treatment temperature of the hair follicle Blistering – which may only be there is always the potential for an high enough and for long enough temporary but which indicates adverse reaction and this is equally to disrupt the hair growth cycle. treatment settings are not true for laser and intense pulsed This means we need a balance appropriate light hair removal. This is why between the heat in the treated Long term complications such careful client selection and a good hair follicles and in the absorbing as hyper or hypo pigmentation understanding of the principles and skin layers. This explains why the – tanned skin being at greater practice of hair removal are vital. ideal combination for treatment is risk of pigmentary changes dark hair in a pale skin – the hair Complications following treatment Scarring – which is rare – but will strongly absorb the light are rare, but they can occur and a clients must still be warned of compared with the skin – making knowledge of how laser and the risks. the skin less susceptible to heat intense pulsed light hair removal damage. works tells us why adverse reactions are possible.
P27 In the majority of cases, adverse Do not treat recently suntanned active cooling can lessen post- reactions are short lived and do skin. A tanned client is likely to treatment inflammation and resolve – but time spent on client have a higher level of melanin in discomfort. consultation and informed the skin and this may increase the Advise the client to avoid activities consent can be time well spent as chance of pigmentary changes or or substances that might increase it may help you spot potential scarring. This is why your client post-treatment discomfort or problems before treatment begins. information must stress the need irritation, for example: hot baths You can help to reduce the to avoid sun exposure prior to and and deodorants. chances of an adverse reaction by during a course of treatments. taking a medical history to check You must know what to do if you Advise against post-treatment sun for known contra-indications to have an adverse reaction during exposure. This can lead to an treatment such as existing skin treatment – your protocols, increased chance of adverse pigmentation disorders, a history of policies or procedures must inflammatory and pigmentary keloid scarring, use of photo- include these details. In particular changes. sensitising drugs such as St. John’s you should have clear instructions Wort, suntanned skin. Adjust the laser or intense pulsed about: light equipment settings to suit the Even when correct treatment How to recognise treatment- treatment area. Areas that have a parameters are chosen, adverse related problems higher density of hair, eg, a dense reactions can still occur but there What to do if anything goes beard area, will strongly absorb are ways that you can reduce the wrong with treatment. light energy which can create chances of this happening. In and retain significant heat in the particular: skin. Appropriate settings and
P28 If your client does experience an Appropriate training on the laser or No one wants to harm a client – adverse reaction it is important to intense pulsed light system and a so make sure that your laser and respond quickly to any complaint. knowledge of equipment intense pulsed light hair removal You may need to ask the client to specifications and variables service includes: return to the salon or clinic for will help you understand why Careful client selection assessment or to photograph the different settings must be used for Suitable pre- and post- area, or you may need to refer the different hair and skin types. treatment advice client on for further assessment, Keeping careful and accurate Appropriate equipment perhaps to a GP or dermatologist. records, including records of Correct protocols, policies If your client wants to complain adverse reactions, is a requirement and procedures about your service you must have of the National Minimum Accurate record keeping. a complaints leaflet or procedure Standards. An audit of your that is readily available to them. If records may help you spot reasons These things will help to reduce you receive a complaint you must or trends for adverse reactions and the chances of an adverse reaction acknowledge and respond to it as by taking appropriate measures – to treatment and are the set out in the NCSC National such as staff training, revising foundation for a safe and credible Minimum Standards. Your treatment protocols, having hair removal service. client is also entitled to complain equipment maintained or directly to the NCSC and your serviced – you may reduce the complaints leaflet or form must likelihood of adverse reactions to include their contact details. treatment.
P29 4. Guidance on contra-indications
4.1 Are there any contra-indications for laser and intense pulsed light hair removal?
We know that treatments are most protocols will need to include the Good contrast between hair and successful when there is a good conditions, drugs or circumstances skin colour is the ideal combination. Darker skin types have a higher contrast between the hair and skin that will contra-indicate treatment. melanin content which absorbs the colour, eg, dark coloured hair You will need to be able to identify light energy and can increase the against a pale skin. But even a contra-indications, whether referral risks of side effects. client with this ideal combination of to a GP is necessary or when hair and skin contrast may not be alternative treatments are suitable for treatment. Experienced appropriate. This is why working beauty therapists – even those with a medical practitioner can be without laser or intense pulsed extremely valuable and helpful. If light experience – will know that you have developed your protocols careful client selection is the key to in conjunction with a medical successful treatment. In practice practitioner you may be able to this means taking a full and consult them if you encounter accurate client history to identify contra-indications, particular drugs factors that could be a contra- or medical conditions that are not indication for laser and intense known to you. pulsed light hair removal For the majority of salons and treatment. clinics, the following conditions, Essentially a ‘contra-indication’ drugs or circumstances are typically means something that is opposed contra-indicated: to, or working against, a particular treatment. Your salon or clinic
P30 Guidance on contra-indications
Pregnancy • Although treatment is not proven to be harmful to pregnant women it is better to advise your client to wait until after the baby is born before starting treatment. Suntanned skin • Do not treat suntanned skin as the increased level of melanin in the skin can cause unpredictable results including long term pigmentation changes. • Clients with artificial tans should not be treated until the product has completely faded from the skin. Drugs or medications that cause Many drugs are known to be photo-sensitisers but usually at different photo-sensitisation wavelengths than those used for laser and intense light hair removal – even so you should still be very cautious if a client is taking drugs or medications you are not familiar with. Seek advice from your medical adviser or pharmacologist. • Some drugs, including herbal remedies such as St. John’s Wort, can react to light and cause unpredictable response to treatment. Known photo-sensitisers include certain antibacterials and antibiotics, antifungals, non steroidal anti inflammatories, cardiovascular drugs, diuretics and drugs containing retinoids. Skin pigmentary conditions • Clients with a history of melasma or vitiligo should not be treated. • Skin containing moles or pigmented nevaii should be avoided or covered during treatment. Keloid scars • Clients with a history of keloid scarring are more at risk from disfiguring scars in the event of a treatment producing skin damage. P31 Guidance on contra-indications
Dermatological conditions A number of conditions may be contra-indicated, even if the conditions are being treated: • Active eczema, psoriasis or acne. In fact, do not treat any areas where the skin is broken. • Clients who are receiving steroid based treatments or oral retinoids should not be treated due to skin thinning effects and increased risk of post-treatment infection. • Clients who are suffering from connective tissue disorders such as scleroderma are contra-indicated. • Clients undergoing any form of photo therapy should not be treated as the laser or intense pulsed light treatment may cause pigmentation changes or interfere with the effectiveness of the photo therapy treatment. • Although treatment is not proven to trigger an epileptic attack you Epilepsy should check with the client as to how well their epilepsy is controlled before you offer treatment. • Clients with diabetes that is well controlled and managed may be Diabetes suitable for treatment. You should emphasise to the client the importance of them being prepared for treatment and having their medication or appropriate food available. • Heat and light are known triggers for the herpes virus. Clients who Herpes regularly suffer from cold sores are recommended to have anti-viral products available should treatment trigger an outbreak. You should not treat any areas with active herpes infection.
P32 Guidance on contra-indications
Coronary and blood pressure • Some clients get very anxious about treatment and may experience an conditions increase in blood pressure. Clients suffering from coronary conditions should not be treated. • Clients who suffer from fainting or giddiness are not necessarily contra-indicated, but you should monitor them closely, especially when they sit up after treatment or leave the treatment couch.
Allergies • Always check with your client as to whether they suffer from allergic reactions to the products or materials you may use, eg, latex or rubber based gloves, creams and gels.
Hair growth related problem • If your client is suffering from underlying conditions, such as Polycystic Ovarian Syndrome (PCOS) or Hirsutism, that affect hair growth you must set realistic expectations of treatment. ‘Hair management’ is a better way of describing treatment for those with hair growth related problems.
Blood related conditions • You must always be aware of the risks of infection from blood related conditions especially since treatment typically involves shaving the area to be treated and nicks and cuts are a possibility. It is recommended practice to wear gloves during treatment (refer to the National Occupational Standards).
P33 Guidance on contra-indications
Remember – Permanent make-up and tattoos • Do not treat over areas that have heavy or dark pigmentation as it may the safest treatment is NO treatment. If ever cause adverse skin reactions. Piercings/body jewellery– wherever you are in any doubt possible remove piercings or body jewellery. Do not fire a laser or about providing a intense pulsed light beam on to reflective jewellery. treatment seek advice or a second opinion. Implants • It is generally accepted that implants, such as silicone implants, heart pace- makers, and artificial joints will not be affected by treatment but do ensure that your client is in good general health and fully recovered from any surgical procedures before offering treatment.
Illustrations of contra-indications
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Herpes Dermatological conditions Skin pigmentary conditions Keloid scars P34 Suntanned skin is one of the most Remember that consultation and common contra-indications and informed consent are the should not be treated. But don’t opportunity to identify your client’s forget that you must also advise history of medical or hair growth your client to avoid the sun after related problems, reasons for treatments as well. The skin can seeking treatment, their general become extremely sensitive to health and wellbeing and whether light and heat after treatment and they are appropriate and suitable cases of pigmentary changes have for treatment. It is also essential been recorded in clients who that you use the consultation to set sunbathed after treatment. This realistic expectations of what the sensitivity can last for as long as six treatment will, or will not, achieve months. Your aftercare leaflet – and checking for known should stress the need for high contra-indications is an essential factor sun protection before, part of this process. during and after a course of
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P35 5. Guidance on equipment and legal issues
5.1 What should I look for when buying a hair removal system?
Buying a system could be a very visiting trade shows and exhibitions What are the on-going big investment and it is easy to feel or other clinics that offer this equipment service or overwhelmed with the amount of service, identifying your customer maintenance costs? information you need to know. needs and reading trade journals Is an equipment loan available if Even if you lease a system you and magazines on the subject. my equipment fails? must make sure you can cover the Here are the type of questions you Will I be able to get software or cost of the financial package from should be asking: equipment upgrades if they are your treatments. The most available? What treatments can the important question is whether you Are finance options available equipment achieve? feel you can trust your supplier and and are they affordable? Are there any reported side are confident doing business with Will the supplier provide effects or complications from them. You should think of it as a marketing or advertising using the equipment? long term relationship and look for materials to help you attract How reliable is the equipment? a manufacturer or supplier that will customers and build your Does the equipment meet the be there to support you – not just business? legal requirements and safety in the early days, but once your Who else is using the standards for laser and intense business is established and set to equipment and what is their pulsed light equipment, grow. experience of the supplier and eg, CE marking? equipment? Make sure you do your research Where is the equipment made by contacting several and are spare parts readily manufacturers and suppliers, available? P36 Laser and intense pulsed light treatments offer fast and effective long term hair reduction and hair management.
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