The expert guide to the world of shaving Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving

Contents

03 Introduction 05 Chapter 1 History of Shaving 10 Chapter 2 Shaving Creams 13 Chapter 3 Shaving Tools 23 Chapter 4 How to Shave 28 Chapter 5 Head and Body Shaving 32 Chapter 6 How to Groom Your Beard and Moustache 35 Chapter 7 Shaving Problems

2 Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving

Introduction

Dr Shave aka Brian Mulreany getting good wet shaving results. I will Sales Director & Co-Owner of personally reply to every enquiry by The Executive Shaving Company ‘phone or email.

A lifetime wet shaver, previously using In most cases simply moving from an Gillette cartridge blades, I began using a electric shaver or multi blade cartridge razor Merkur safety razor, shaving brush and to a safety razor will solve problems such shaving creams and soaps for the first as ingrown hairs, razor burn and excessive around 1993. sensitivity. Sometimes it is poor shaving technique that’s causing the problem, either Since then I have test shaved more than way Dr Shave has a solution. 100 different razors, Merkur, Feather, iKon, Above the Tie, Timor, Muhle and a Dr Shave knows that being clean shaven selection of vintage safety razors too as is only part way to being recognised as well as a few cut throats. a ‘well-groomed gent’, other important matters to consider include dressing I’m personally responsible for the appropriately for the occasion, choosing successful launch of the Executive the right clothes for your age and personal Shaving own brand range of razors, hygiene is of paramount importance. brushes, balms, soaps and creams. Few things irritate Dr Shave more than unsightly, protruding ear and nose hair, Dr Shave loves to hear directly from bushy, unkempt eyebrows and dirty or Dr Shave men who are yearning for the ‘perfect bitten fingernails. The worst crime is body shave’ and from men who have problems odour, there is simply no excuse for that!

3 Dr Shave’s Book of Shaving

Dr. Shave’s Book of Shaving welcomes Then it’s time to put it all behind you. Let ƒƒ Shaving Tools – By this I mean you into his world.This book will tell you Dr. Shave take you through his shaving razors, brushes, strops and everything everything about the world of shaving and process, explain the do’s and don’ts and else associated with shaving. provide the best ways of improving your help you to take proper care of your skin. shaving experience. Achieve the ultimate shave! ƒƒ How to Shave – Step by step guide containing the best hints and tips for For many, the introduction to shaving Let me take you through: shaving using various types of razors. involved watching their father slap foam on his face, painfully scrape a safety razor ƒƒ History of Shaving – A fascinating ƒƒ Head and Body Shaving – A more across it, and then go through the eye- subject but if you want to skip this and common practice these days, so you watering ritual of applying aftershave. Keep find more pertinent needs I won’t hold should know how to do it properly. those treasured memories but let Dr Shave it against you. You can always come give you some better shaving advice. back to it when your partner has left ƒƒ How to Groom Your Beard and you for not knowing about flint razors Moustache – Look after your facial If you’ve ever: from 30,000 BC. forest or neat ‘tache and style it the way you want. ƒƒ Tried various shaving fads like a 5 In this history lesson I’ll tell you about blade vibrating razor with built in light, early shaving tools, the reasons why ƒƒ Shaving Problems – Serious stuff. sideburns trimmer and Flexball glide being clean shaven has its advantages Shaving sensitive skin, razor burn, technology only to be disappointed. in the battlefield and also how it ingrown hairs and razor bumps are ƒƒ Ripped your face to shreds using a cut helped prevent nasty diseases and all things that can be avoided with throat or safety razor. infestations. the right technique, products, care ƒƒ Found yourself disillusioned with the and attention. Let Dr Shave take your vast array of shaving products that ƒƒ Shaving Creams – I’ll tell you about pain away. claim to take you to the promised land the various types of lubricants, creams, of ultimate shaves. soaps, foams and gels and share my ƒƒ Been overwhelmed with the amount of valuable recommendations. useless shaving advice out there.

4 Chapter 1 History of Shaving

5 Chapter 1

History of Shaving

having can be traced back to ƒƒ minimise breeding grounds for lice and Early Fashions prehistoric times when early man other parasites first started to pull hairs from his ƒƒ to avoid the beard being used as a Before AD 100, the Greeks and Romans Sface. In the following centuries various hand hold in combat continued to shave their faces and tools were employed to scrape hair from ƒƒ vanity since the beard was associated heads, probably as a hygienic measure the faces and bodies of both men and with old age and death. to minimise infestations of lice and women. It wasn’t until the 19th century, other parasites. with the industrial revolution, that the art Early Tools and Creams of shaving became possible. In the military, shaving the head and face Archaeological evidence shows that the had the additional benefit of preventing Early Days next step was due to the metallurgical the enemy from using hair as a hand hold. developments of the Bronze Age. Copper Evidence of shaving in prehistoric times razors were discovered in India and Egypt comes from cave paintings which show dating back to 3,000 BC. Various other that sea shells were used as tweezers to tools, creams and potions were used pluck the facial hairs. Flint razors have over the next millennia and in 500 BC been found from as early as 30,000 BC. the first barber shops began to appear in Rome, where the tonsors (barbers) It is thought that shaving was done for used iron razors. many reasons: Women had to resort to using lamps ƒƒ hygiene to singe off their leg hairs as well as ƒƒ to avoid food becoming caught up in razors, creams, tweezers and even the beard pumice stones.

6 Chapter 1 | History of Shaving

Around AD 100, when the Emperor straight razor, allowing only a small Hadrian rose to power, it became portion of the edge to protrude. Perret fashionable for men to wear beards. never patented his invention.

AD 476-1270 – during this time, the trend Early Safety Razor Improvements was for ladies to painfully remove all and Shaving Soaps hair from the body including eyebrows, eyelashes, temples and neck in order to In Sheffield, England in the 18th and 19th look chic. century, they produced steel straight razors. Their main drawback was that The Twelfth Century saw radical changes they became dull quickly, and so had to the way many societies dressed and to be honed and stropped frequently to groomed. At the start of the century maintain a sharp edge. nearly all French men, for example, wore full beards, but by 1400 most were France. Perret was a master cutler In 1847 a significant invention was made clean-shaven. and famed author of Pogonotomie, au by Englishman, William Henson. Henson L’Art D’Apprende à se Raser Sol-Méme created the first ‘hoe type’ razor with the In the mid to late 1700s - men and (Pogonotomie, or The Art of Shaving blade perpendicular to the handle, just women began to remove all hair from Oneself) in 1769 and L’Art du Coutelier like a garden tool - similar to what we’re their foreheads in order to wear artificial (The Art of the Cutler) in 1771. The familiar with today. press-on mouse skin eyebrows. original Dr. Shave! This design made it easier to shave Early Literature and Perret described a device he called a oneself, reducing the need for a barber Safety Razor Evolution ‘rasoir à rabot‘– a plane for the beard, and became an overnight success. which he had invented in 1762. It was It is believed the honour of devising inspired by a carpenter’s plane, and The earliest known soap recipe was the first safety razor goes to Jean consisted of a wooden sleeve that found in the Egyptian Ebers Papyrus, a Jacques Perret (1730-1784) of Paris, enclosed the blade of an ordinary folding medical document from about 1500 BC,

7 Chapter 1 | History of Shaving

The first patent for a safety razor was to 2.5 million blades in the second year filed by the Kampfe brothers in the US of trading. Continual improvements have in the 1880s. This featured a wire skin ensured that the company he founded guard along one side of the razor’s edge. remains the leading supplier of shaving Only one side of the actual blade was goods in the world today. used and because it was made of forged steel it had to be removed frequently for 20th Century sharpening. In 1910 an American, Willis G Hockey, Despite this the Kampfe razor was the received a patent for the first mechanical best safety razor on the market at the shaver. The ‘wind up safety razor’ which describes combining animal and time and it would take the intervention incorporated a pull cord to drive a flywheel vegetable oils with alkaline salts to form a of the most famous name in shaving to that operated for a short period of time soap-like material. change everything before it needed to be wound up again.

Soap making first became a commercial Time for Gillette In 1915 the Wilkinson Sword Company, activity in the 19th century after a French a manufacturer of razor blades for men, chemist Michel Chevreul discovered In 1903, Mr King Camp Gillette, together launched a campaign to encourage the chemical nature of and relationship with William Nickerson launched a new women to shave their armpits. This was between fats, glycerin and fatty acids. concept in shaving - the disposable based on the premise that it was both Further advances during the industrial razor blade. Together with a modified unhygienic and unfeminine to keep revolution saw soap transformed from form of safety razor designed to allow underarm hair. an expensive luxury to an everyday the easy replacement of the worn blade, necessity by 1850. this new innovation revolutionised the Another American in 1921, Lt. Col. Jacob shaving market. Schick invented a new razor called the Shaving soaps and aftershave lotions ‘magazine repeating razor’, which had made from cherry laurel water also Gillette became an overnight success replacement razor blades stored inside its appeared in the late 1800s. producing 90,000 razors and progressing handle. Blades were purchased in clips,

8 Chapter 1 | History of Shaving

which were inserted easily into the razor. The Philips Company, of Philishave fame, Modern Day Schick also began to develop his ‘injector produced electric razors in the years razor’, which would become an extremely 1939 – 2006 under the Philishave brand Gillette manufactured carbon steel blades popular shaver in the years to come. and still produces them today under the up until the 1960s but in 1965, the British name of Philips. Wilkinson Sword Company introduced In 1927 the same Colonel invented the stainless steel blades that, with no World’s first electric dry shaver, with tendency to rust, could be used until blunt. oscillating blades. This became available to the public in 1929 but wasn’t met with Wilkinson Sword soon captured the much enthusiasm. He had to wait another British and European markets and Gillette two years until an electric motor had been were forced to switch to stainless steel developed that was small enough to fit to compete. into a hand-held device, yet powerful enough to cut through a beard. Modern carbon steel blades are still available and should not rust if rinsed in In 1931, he sold his first electric razor alcohol after use - top tip! in New York for $25 and managed to sell another 3,000 that year. Schick’s 1974 - the first completely disposable gadget caught the public’s imagination razor was introduced from Bic. and by 1937, 1.5 million were in use. It was not long before other manufacturers, Gillette’s response was the Good News including Gillette and Remington, began disposable razor which was launched on to produce their own electric razors. the US market in 1976.

Another important inventor was Prof. Now there are numerous disposable Alexandre Horowitz, from Philips razors available, most of them designed Laboratories in Holland, who invented the with the emphasis on economy and not very successful revolving electric razor. shaving performance.

9 Chapter 2 Shaving Creams

10 Chapter 2

Shaving Creams

Shaving cream is a lubricating cream that is applied to the face and helps the Foam and Gel Tubs and Tubes razor to glide smoothly over the skin and is important in avoiding nicks, razor burn Usually alcohol based Almost always alcohol free and irritation.    Cheap, chemical based  Easier on the skin substitute for natural products Softens the beard hair There is a huge range of creams available  Often dries the skin excessively A true wet shave as the water to the consumer making selecting the   Not a ‘true’ wet shave used to soften the beard remains right cream a tough decision.   They are full of air which on the face means you cannot possibly get Often contains essential oils However, you’re in safe hands with Dr.  the lubrication needed for a which are kind to the skin Shave. I’ll describe the products and comfortable, close wet shave Very easy to lather up into a rich, state the advantages and disadvantages  They use synthetic perfumes for creamy consistency. of each type. This way, you can make an  the scent and not essential oils. Shaving Creams informed decision as to which product is  best for you. Trust me, I’m a Dr.

11 Chapter 2 | Shaving Creams

Shaving Creams How to Use Shaving Cream

If you can’t get your hands on shaving ƒƒ Prior to your shave, lather up with a cream, you could use regular facial shaving brush dampened with warm soap in an emergency but only in (not hot) water and apply to the beard. an emergency. ƒƒ If you don’t have a shaving brush, apply the cream sparingly with your Aerosol foams and gels are best left fingertips to the area to be shaved but on the shelf - read the ingredients on frankly a shaving brush is far sexier for these products! lathering up. ƒƒ Shave as normal. Modern day shaving The ultimate shave and correct skin care creams rinse away almost instantly, can only be achieved if moisturising without a trace of residue. shaving creams are used. Moisturising Benefits of Shaving Cream ƒƒ Good quality moisturising shaving shaving cream is an ideal shaving creams are carefully formulated, lubrication that provides both moisturising ƒƒ It softens the beard for a close and economical to use and give an properties and good lubrication. comfortable shave excellent lather for a comfortable shave ƒƒ It protects the skin from irritation and that leaves the skin exceptionally soft. Moisturising shaving creams can be razor burn used for all skin types. Normal to drier ƒƒ It leaves the skin feeling smooth As you may have gathered, Dr. Shave skins will reap the most benefits. These and conditioned believes a good shave means using a exceptionally rich and nourishing shaving ƒƒ Shaving cream is a perfect moisturising shaving brush and moisturising shaving creams deliver the ultimate shave. solution for those with dry skin. cream or soap.

12 Chapter 3 Shaving Tools

13 Chapter 3

Shaving Tools

Razors Advances in razor technology changed If you opt to try out a straight razor do shaving habits in the 20th century. ensure that you receive basic instruction Razors come in many forms and in its use and that the razor feels each have their advantages and In 1900, most men were either shaved by ‘comfortable’ in your hand. These days disadvantages. Once you have finished the local barber, or periodically at home we have the benefit of YouTube. reading this chapter you should be able when required, rather than regularly. to purchase with confidence a razor that It may take many shaves before you will be the best one for you. Straight / Cut Throat Razor Material can consider yourself a cut throat razor wizard. This is your razor. There are many like it In general, the blades of straight razors but this one is yours. are made of steel; the more recent razors Please note: A cut-throat razor must be have blades made from stainless steel. used with extreme caution. History The manufacturer’s markings are often found engraved or etched on the blades Ancient Romans and Grecians used iron which may include the model number or blades with a long handle and developed name of the razor. the shape of the cut-throat razor which was the only practical razor until the The handles of straight razors are made 19th century. from all sorts of different materials, including wood, rubber, horn, ivory, Improvements in steel manufacturing Bakelite, ivory, and metal. Inlays can enabled cut throat razor blades to be be of mother of pearl, silver, gold, made sharper and for the first time, they stainless steel, copper, ivory, wood could be re-sharpened. and tortoiseshell.

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The types of razors available include: How to Look After a Cut Throat Razor ƒƒ Straight or ‘cut throat’ razors ƒƒ Disposable blade straight razors, The cut throat or straight razor must be usually known as Shavette’s properly maintained in order to ensure ƒƒ Double edged safety razors the long life and effectiveness of this ƒƒ Mach 3 razors traditional men’s accessory. While straight ƒƒ Fusion razors razors made of stainless steel are less ƒƒ Electric razors. demanding, other straight razors have to be rinsed with water and thoroughly dried Straight or Cut Throat Razors after each use.

The straight-edge razor is also known as Make sure your razor is thoroughly dried the cut-throat razor because, if misused, and aired before storing. it is capable of cutting the throat. When not in use for longer periods, it A cut throat razor has a single straight is recommended that the blade of the blade that is attached to a handle (the straight razor be rubbed with light oil handles on cut throat razors are known as such as Muhle’s Razor Maintenance Oil. scales) by a hinge and is stored by folding it edge-first into a slot in the handle of Maintaining the Cutting Edge the razor. Experienced cut throat users know Shaving with a cut throat razor or straight Cut throat razor and strop that the facet (blade) ‘grows’, i.e. the razor is considered by many shaving microscopically fine ‘fin’ on the cutting traditionalists as the very best way edge changes during the shave but returns to shave. to its old position afterwards; it stretches and again becomes extremely fine.

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The ‘fin’ will wear away at some stage abrasive paste and - for a final polishing and a suitable strop should then be used. on a separate strop - with polishing paste, which is worked in with a clean How to strop: A strop is a strip of special soft leather cotton cloth. with a hanging loop at one end used to ƒƒ With a flat angle lay the back whet (sharpen) the blade. Usually a strop Straight razors are usually whetted in the of the razor on the strop will have two sides; one made from fine factory for use (whetting on leather by ƒƒ Draw the blade along the leather, the other from coarse leather. hand). If you ‘strop’ yourself, you must strop, away from the body Other strops may have fine leather and first ‘rest’ the razor after use. ƒƒ Turn the razor over on its either denim, linen or a fabric similar to back and draw it in towards car seat belt material. After the razor has been carefully rinsed the body and dried, it should not be used again for ƒƒ Note: Changing directions If required, the fine leather side can be at least 24 – 48 hours because the fine without turning the razor over rubbed with an extremely thin layer of fine ‘fin’ on the cutting edge straightens up makes the blade become again extremely slowly. round (crowned) so that the cutting properties are lost If the razor is stropped too soon (or ƒƒ In this case, only re-sharpening stropped incorrectly by moving it with a hone can help. backwards and forwards without turning it over), the ‘fin’ which is necessary for a close shave breaks off.

Between four and fifteen shaves are possible without stropping in between depending on your beard growth, the quality of the razor and your stropping technique.

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Disposable Blade Straight Razors

These are razors which are similar in use Tips and appearance to straight razors but which use either a standard double edged ƒƒ Store straight razors in a well- dampened with either ethyl blade or specially made custom blades. ventilated, dry environment alcohol or rubbing alcohol - this ƒƒ Keep straight razors out of water will help to de grease the blade Many razors of this type are referred and away from liquids as much ƒƒ Apply a thin coat of Muhle’s to as ‘Shavette’s’ although this name as possible Razor Maintenance Oil; let it sit was originally restricted to a razor ƒƒ Do not clean with bleach, for a short while (10 minutes, or manufactured by Dovo in Germany. ammonia or detergents as these so) and then wipe the excess oil substances can cause damage off using a clean, dry cloth. This Disposable bladed straights have many of ƒƒ Metal polishes, such as Brasso, coating of oil will help prevent any the advantages of straight razors without Silvo, or Autosol should never further rusting needing the stropping and honing of be used ƒƒ Before you next use your razor ordinary straight razors. Many barbers ƒƒ If the blade is exceptionally dull or rub the blade with alcohol or at worldwide use Shavette razors for nicked, the use of a honing stone least warm soapy water to remove shaving customers. is recommended the oil and again after use to clean ƒƒ Use a leather razor strop to the blade maintain a keen edge - you know ƒƒ Use Muhle’s Razor Maintenance you’re getting close when you can Oil to re-oil the blade after use, as cleanly slice a piece of paper with well as after sharpening. your razor ƒƒ Be careful not to get any alcohol ƒƒ Clean the entire surface of or oil on the handle. the blade with a cotton cloth

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Feather Cut Throat Razors Advantages: A speedy shave.

These beautiful razors are made in Japan Disadvantages: Too many to list in their using hard grade materials; they use entirety but here are a few: Feather injector blades which you replace when they dull.  They don’t shave closely  Expensive to buy These razors are very popular as they  They tend to push the hairs into the deliver a shave comparable with a skin which can lead to ingrown hairs traditional cut throat razor but without the  They pull and tug the hairs leading to need for stropping or honing. irritation  They often result in razor bump and This is 21st century shaving for those razor burn who want a close yet hassle free shave  Encourages ingrown hairs, razor with a cut throat razor. bumps and razor burn.

Dr. Shave now recommends these razors Dr Shave is not a fan of electric razors! above traditional cut throat razors. Safety Razors Electric Razor Initially, a safety razor will cost more than Safety razors The electric razor (also known as the one of its modern Mach3 and Fusion electric dry shaver) has a rotating or type counterparts. However, in the long oscillating blade. It does not require the run a safety razor will prove itself to be a average about three times the price of a use of shaving cream, soap or water, with cheaper alternative. pack of ten safety razor blades that will the razor being battery or mains powered. last over three months! On that basis it’s A pack of four Fusion razor cartridges, not hard to see how safety razor shaving enough for about a month, costs on will benefit your pocket in the long run.

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Safety Razor Shaving These cartridges achieve their closeness skin and with fewer strokes. The huge Benefits the Environment by stretching the skin with a layer of investment in research and development rubberised ‘micro fins’, then by lifting has resulted in a razor that makes the Firstly, you’ll use three times less razor the hair and slicing it off at a point closest shave more comfortable, with less cartridges by using a safety razor; slightly below the surface of the skin. irritation, even when shaving against the therefore, there is less waste for you to It is this overzealous closeness that direction of hair growth. dispose of. Secondly, as safety razor causes many of today’s skin and blades are made of a single metal razor shaving problems as, if shaved too This applies to fresh blades; blades used blade, they can be easily recycled unlike closely, cut hair can grow painfully into more than 3-4 times will soon go blunt today’s modern razor cartridges that are a the upper layers of the epidermis. and not preform as Gillette claim. mixture of plastic and metal. Once the hair follicles begin to do this, Gillette Fusion Safety Razor Shaving Provides there is a high chance of causing ingrown Better, More Consistent Shaves hairs, razor bumps and razor burn. The Gillette fusion range represents the pinnacle of shaving and razor innovation Today’s modern razors and electric This problem is severely reduced and (according to Gillette). shavers are no match for a double-edged even removed altogether by shaving with safety razor. a good quality safety razor, leaving your The problem with these blades is that skin in excellent condition every time they are ridiculously expensive to buy as they cut hairs directly at the skin’s and they don’t maintain their edge surface. for more than a few shaves. One way around this problem is to extend the Gillette Mach 3 Shaving life of each blade by up to 150 shaves by using a RazorPit Blade Sharpener. The three bladed Mach 3 design was This cheap tool really does work introduced by Gillette to allow for a very and comes highly recommended by close shave with less pressure to the Executive Shaving.

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Luxury handcrafted handles can be made from fine materials such as ivory or even gold and can be designed to feel So, what are the benefits of well-balanced in the hand. The bristles using a shaving brush? are usually made of natural or synthetic materials. ƒƒ Creates a rich and extremely moist latherExfoliates the skin Why Use a Shaving Brush? ƒƒ Softens and lifts facial hair ƒƒ Allows for a closer, trouble-free Shaving brushes are used by shavers for shave a variety of reasons, but mainly for their Shaving Brushes ability to facilitate a close, comfortable Now that you’ve invested in a and enjoyable shave. shaving brush you’ll need to know Dr. Shave believes that of all the items how to look after it, to get the best associated with obtaining the perfect Fibrous bristles hold water and heat from it and keep it for several years shave, the brush is vitally important. which, when mixed with the shaving soap or shaving cream, creates a rich ƒƒ Rinse it well in clean water after Forget using your fingers to rub in and moist lather. Richer and moist each use shaving cream or soap; the only decent lather translates to better lubrication, ƒƒ Remove excess water by way of obtaining a good lather, exfoliating leading to less dragging and tugging ‘flicking’ it into the sink the skin and lifting the hairs in preparation which can lead to razor burn and ƒƒ Hang the brush, hair down, in a for the shave is by use of the brush. other skin complaints. suitable brush stand ƒƒ Avoid using HOT WATER, when The term shave brush or shaving brush Because a shaving brush is most often leathering up or cleaning your refers to an implement with bristles set used with a glycerine-based soap, this shaving brush, warm water is into a handle which is used to apply affects applying shaving cream by hand fine but never, ever hot water. shaving soap or shaving cream to the and causes the hair to matt or raises it face when shaving. unevenly, so I advise against it.

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Shaving Brush Bristles Many travel shaving brushes use  It has a higher water retention synthetic hair as synthetic hair dries capacity than synthetic bristles A shaving brush’s value is determined almost immediately.  But has a tendency to break more more by its bristle type and density than readily than synthetic bristle. any other factors. Prices for synthetic Synthetic bristles are generally cheaper bristle brushes are the cheapest whilst and tougher than natural bristles, The Badger hair bristles are the finest and most top-of-the-range brushes made of ‘New Generation’ of synthetic brushes luxurious material possible for shaving the finest badger hair are much more produced by Vulfix / Simpson and Muhle brushes. Among their advantages are: expensive. in particular are extremely soft on the face and do retain heat and water in much  An ideal water retention capacity Historically, well-to-do men would the same way a badger hair brush does.  They hold heat better than other types generally shave with a badger hair However, earlier versions and cheap of bristles brush, while commoners concerned import versions:  They create a superb lather with colloquially proper aesthetics would  Badger hair feels smooth on the face resort to cheaper versions made of boar  Hold less water than natural bristle  Durability has not been matched by or horse hair. brushes any other synthetic or natural material.  Take longer to work up a lather A shaving brush was known in Europe  And can feel rougher on the skin. Whilst some companies insist on using as something of a status symbol, an other terminology, these four grades expensive or eccentric brush was a way of Synthetic/natural bristles combine are commonly accepted among wet asserting one’s personality and affluence. boar’s hair with synthetic bristles in an shavers to best describe the quality attempt to improve the quality of the pure of badger hair: These days modern materials mean synthetic brush but this: that some synthetic brushes actually ƒƒ Pure Badger - Pure badger is the outperform badger brushes in many  Does not greatly affect the quality of term used to describe badger hair respects. lather produced brushes using the most common hair  And is often as stiff and ‘prickly’ as a from the underbelly of a badger. This synthetic bristle hair varies greatly in softness, pliability

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and colour. The hair is usually dark ƒƒ Silvertip Badger - Silvertip grade hair Nowadays, shaving brushes are very in colour, but fluctuates from a light comes from the back of the neck of similar in appearance, composition tan to near-black or silvery sheen. the badger. The hair is finer than other and function to their centuries-old It is generally coarser than ‘best’ or grades and it holds heat and water predecessors. ‘silvertip’ hair due to its larger shaft. better than all other grades. One way Brushes made exclusively with pure to determine if a brush bears a ‘super’ Although a variety of different materials badger hair cost significantly less than or ‘silvertip’ badger hair load is to look are still used to fashion shave brush ‘best’ and ‘super’ badger hair brushes. at the colour of the bristle tips. A true handles, synthetic handles of nylon, ‘silvertip’ brush has tips that are off- urethane or plastic are the most common ƒƒ Best Badger - Best badger brushes white. A ‘super’ brush on the other even amongst the most expensive are made with the fine and pliable hairs hand has bristle tips that are a more shaving brush manufacturers. of the badger’s body. It is longer in sterile, slightly greyed white. The light length and lighter in colour than ‘pure’ colour of the tips does not extend as The advantages of synthetic handles badger hair. A ‘best’ badger brush is far down the shaft of the hair. Silvertip include: more densely filled with hair than the hair is very soft on the face yet very ‘pure’ badger brush and will produce a durable too.  A lesser chance of breakage if dropped correspondingly greater lather.  More resistant to damage by moisture. Shaving Brush Handles ƒƒ Super Badger Hair - This grade of Some people still prefer natural materials hair is lighter in colour than Pure and The modern shaving brush may be such as wood or exotic materials such Best grades as it’s taken from the traced back to France in the 1750s. The as tortoise shell, but these articles are back of the badger where the hair is quality of these brushes differed greatly, more difficult to obtain and will be priced lighter compared to the head and belly. as materials used to fashion the handles accordingly. Usually Super grade hair has a black varied from the common to the exotic. coloured band midsection and whiter, The handle is modelled ergonomically, softer tips compared to Pure and Historically, it was not uncommon for allowing for a proper grip on the brush Best grades. handles to be made of ivory, gold, silver, and is designed to feel well-balanced in tortoise shell, crystal or porcelain. the hand.

22 Chapter 4 How to Shave

23 Chapter 4

How to Shave

Think that all you have to do to get a That’s right, it’s important the water decent shave is to wet your face, add is warm: lather and scrape away? Well, my friend, nothing could be further from the truth. ƒƒ Soften the beard by washing your Let Dr. Shave show you the way. face thoroughly in warm water before shaving; or soak a face cloth in warm To look your best and to experience water and hold it to your beard for 30 the perfect shave, time and time again, seconds to help soften the hair and you must prepare thoroughly and allow skin yourself enough time to do the job right. ƒƒ You may want to exfoliate using an exfoliating cream to better prepare Let’s look at the process of shaving from your skin and beard for shaving start to finish. ƒƒ Apply a pre shave soap or oil before shaving to soften the bristles. A pre The four main stages of shaving to shave oil will soften the bristles and perfection are: if you follow Dr. Shave’s tip, leave a residue of lubricating oil on the face ƒƒ Preparation Preparation to provide additional razor glide. The ƒƒ Lathering up Executive Shaving Company Pre ƒƒ Shaving When hair absorbs warm water it Shave Oil does this very effectively ƒƒ Post-shave care. becomes softer and easier to shave and ƒƒ Rinse off some, but not all of the oil, with warmth the skin and facial muscles leave a residue on the face, apply your become relaxed, making shaving so shaving cream or soap on top of this much easier. residue. This helps the razor to glide

24 Chapter 4 | How to Shave

smoothly across the face, making for a shave and will create a smooth lather comfortable, closer, trouble-free shave leading to a closer shave. They also help ƒƒ Take your time. Rushing leads to nicks to keep your skin soft and healthy. and cuts and taking the time for good preparation is essential to a quality shave. Tips: Lathering Up ƒƒ Soak the brush in warm (not If you haven’t yet purchased a badger or hot) water for 20-30 seconds synthetic hair shaving brush and cream to soften the bristles and let or shaving soap, you clearly haven’t been the brush absorb water and listening to Dr. Shave. If you have, well heat done! Now it’s a question now of getting ƒƒ Apply shaving cream to the the most from them. brush or lather up by brushing vigorously over the soap The cream can be applied directly to the ƒƒ Paint the lather onto face and brush or put in a shaving bowl to make beard ensuring all areas are a lather by rubbing vigorously with a well covered. Don’t splay the shaving brush. hair, this will damage the knot

If you are using soap, then you will have to rub the brush fairly vigorously for at least a minute over the soap to ensure you obtain a good lather.

Cream and soap will help to keep the skin and beard warm and wet during the

25 Chapter 4 | How to Shave

Shaving Techniques shave against the grain. Do not apply too much pressure with the razor Shaving with Mach 3, Fusion and Other ƒƒ Again, use your fingers to feel for Cartridge Razors remaining stubble – repeat the process if you have to, but always keep your Make sure you use an unused or relatively face lathered and your blade clean new razor blade for the closest and least ƒƒ Rinse your face with warm water to painful shave. remove all traces of shaving cream and bristles. ƒƒ Start shaving from the top of the ƒƒ Rinse and dry your razor beard, going with the direction of hair ƒƒ Rinse your shaving brush and flick it growth or ‘grain’ to the edge of your dry before hanging upside down in jaw-line in long, even strokes. This its holder. is possible with this type of razor as the head swivels with the contours Safety Razor Shaving of your face (unlike a fixed head safety razor) ƒƒ Always use a sharp blade ƒƒ Shave under your chin and your neck ƒƒ Follow the steps above but shave in from the bottom of your neck upwards, short, light strokes of 25-35mm at a with the grain, to prevent razor burn time and shave at an angle of around and ingrown hairs. You may find that 30° to the face. A safety razor doesn’t when shaving your chin you have to have a head that swivels so you have shave across the grain to adjust the shaving angle as you ƒƒ You may wish to pull your skin gently ƒƒ Feel with your fingers to find any shave to maintain the 30° angle with your free hand for a closer shave remaining stubble ƒƒ Frequently swish your razor in warm ƒƒ To shave your upper lip, stretch it over ƒƒ Re-lather your face water to stop the blade from clogging up your front teeth to tighten the skin, and ƒƒ This time using long gentle strokes and ƒƒ Best results are achieved with a safety shave downwards keeping the skin semi-taut, carefully razor if you shave with the grain twice

26 Chapter 4 | How to Shave

or once with the grain then once firstly in the direction of growth of the After your shave, apply some type of across the grain before shaving against beard and then against the direction balm or skin food. Do not use an eau de the grain. This is known as a ‘three of growth. Be careful to maintain the toilet or cologne as these are alcohol pass shave’. angle; if held too flat, the razor rips based fragrances that will dry your skin the stubble; if held too upright, it cuts rather than giving it the moisturisation it Safety Razors vary greatly in their the skin needs after shaving. aggressiveness. For example the Muhle ƒƒ Always move it at 90° to the cutting R41 offers an extremely close shave, edge and never along the cutting edge; If you need to apply cologne, apply it to while the Muhle R89 is a very mild yet always draw it through evenly and the back of the neck, the hair and the effective shaver. hold it a little more upright at corners, chest, anywhere but the area you have dimples and at the upper lip just shaved. Cut Throat / Straight Razor Shaving ƒƒ If the razors edge gets damaged by being dropped or pranged on the sink A good tip is to apply cologne on the Shaving with a cut throat razor demands please examine it carefully for any upper chest, your body heat will activate a different approach. nicks before using it again. If the razors the scent which will then be absorbed by edge has been damaged you should your shirt so you smell nice - Dr. Shave is ƒƒ Apply a rich creamy lather (as have the edge honed. Stropping does always fighting off the ladies with this tip. described previously) not help here; the razor must be re- ƒƒ When shaving with a straight razor you sharpened using a sharpening stone must use your free hand to keep the skin fairly taught Post-shave Care ƒƒ Hold the open straight razor with a thumb and three fingers so that the A great wet shave exfoliates, removes opened holder points away from dead skin and cleanses the face and your face leaves you feeling beautiful. ƒƒ Then starting with the flat, smooth areas of the face move the razor Now that your face is smooth and clean holding it at an angle of about 30° it’s time to look after your skin.

27 Chapter 5 Head and Body Shaving

28 Chapter 5

Head and Body Shaving

It’s not just facial hair that Dr. Shave knows a specific head shaving cream such as everything about. I’m the top dog for HeadBlade HeadBlade Slick, simply put some into everything shaving and in this chapter I’ll the palms of your hands and apply to teach you how to shave your head, armpits the scalp and pubic areas safely and comfortably. ƒƒ Wet razor with warm water and shave in short strokes of 30-40mm at a time You may wish to use a safety razor or ƒƒ Subsequent strokes are made from a cartridge type razor. Either way be this starting point cutting close to the sure to take note of my tips to avoid any scalp and at the base of the hair. Try to unnecessary shaving problems due to avoid making repeat strokes over the poor technique. same area so as to minimise the risk of nicks and razor burn For head shaving, consider using a shaving that delivers a close shave, we ƒƒ You can use a mirror if you like until HeadBlade head razor and HeadBlade highly recommend HeadBlade. you gain experience – thereafter you shaving cream, after shave balm and may find you can shave by touch alone moisturiser. HeadBlade tools are Head Shaving with a Wet Razor ƒƒ After the shave, run your fingers over specifically designed for head shaving, the scalp to feel for any bits you have they are easy to use and it’s almost As with shaving the face, do not apply missed. Then carefully go over the area impossible to cut your scalp as a too much pressure with the razor, use a again – always reapply shaving cream, HeadBlade razor uses little wheels to ride top quality brush and shaving cream, use failure to do so may lead to razor nicks the contours of your scalp. a fresh blade, and take your time. or razor burn These little head razors are compatible ƒƒ Thoroughly wet the scalp ƒƒ Rinse your head with warm water to with other cartridge razor blades ƒƒ Apply a generous layer of shaving remove all traces of shaving cream and including Mach3. For safe, fast head cream with a brush or if you are using hair and dry off

29 Chapter 5 | Head and Body Shaving

ƒƒ Apply after shave balm or other soothing For those who want to keep their body ƒƒ Don’t apply too much pressure with agents. HeadBlade have a range of after hair trimmed rather than clean shaven the razor! head shaving products that soothe and an electric trimmer is perfect for keeping ƒƒ A light touch with a new blade will moisturise the shaved area things neat and tidy. It’s an extremely shave closely and be less likely to cut ƒƒ If your first head shave is not close - easy way to keep hair short, even, and the skin don’t worry - you’ll get a closer one as neat, and the trimmer can be used over ƒƒ Have someone help you shave your you become more experienced. the entire area. However for a perfect, back and other inaccessible bits hairless look you need to wet shave. ƒƒ Try to avoid repeated razor strokes We know that lots of men buy travel over the same areas as this will lead to shaving razors for head shaving, this is Body shaving is best achieved if these razor burn and maybe razor rash because these razors are lightweight and basic rules are followed. ƒƒ Short side to side and up and down have short handles making them ideal for strokes may be necessary on the head shaving, these razors are available ƒƒ Remove long hair with a hair trimmer underarm, where hair grows in all in Gillette Mach3 and Fusion and safety or scissors directions razor versions. ƒƒ Wash the skin with warm water to ƒƒ Use short up and down strokes on the soften the hair, open the hair follicle pubic area Body Shaving and relax and cleanse the skin ƒƒ Rinse the blade often - a clogged ƒƒ You may want to do this whilst in the blade is no good for shaving People shave parts of their bodies for bath – be sure to shower afterwards to ƒƒ Make sure there’s still shaving lather all sorts of reasons. I’m not going to remove all traces of soap and hair wherever you’re shaving judge and I’m not going to tell people ƒƒ If you’re shaving your whole body do a ƒƒ When you’ve finished the shave, be what to do either - I’m only here to tell little area at a time and take it slow sure to look after this now very delicate you the best way to shave. Regardless ƒƒ Apply shaving cream to the area to be and sensitive skin! of which part of your body you want shaved to shave the same basic rules apply ƒƒ Use a new blade to achieve a good shave and maintain ƒƒ Gently pull the skin taut - for the soft, healthy skin. armpits raising the arm may be sufficient for this

30 Chapter 5 | Head and Body Shaving

Post-shave Tips Remember, a comfortable shave that leaves your skin, healthy, soft and Itching after shaving the pubic area the refreshed does not come without a Always: first couple of times is quite common degree of effort and due care and and easily remedied. The itching will go attention on your part.  Allow plenty of time for away if you keep shaving, particularly if the shave you shave often, as stubble is one major  Good preparation is cause of itch. If the itching is persistent very important here are some remedies to try:  Use quality tools and creams  Develop a good technique ƒƒ Cool the itchy area by laying a cold  Treat your skin to the best flannel over it, or gently pat the shaving aftercare lotions irritated skin ƒƒ Rub the area with an ice cube ƒƒ Use dry skin lotion regularly on areas you’ve shaved to help reduce irritation, itching, and to soften the skin and hair follicles – this also will reduce the discomfort caused by ‘stubble’ in between shaves ƒƒ Apply a clear, unscented Vitamin E oil or baby oil ƒƒ Apply an over-the-counter cortisone anti-itch cream (this may help with razor burn and little red bumps as well) ƒƒ Dust with Wakodo Dusting Powder.

31 Chapter 6 How to Groom your Beard and Moustache

32 Chapter 6

How to Groom your Beard and Moustache

Grooming Your Beard How to Trim Your Beard and Moustache Most people use a beard trimmer, but if Tips you don’t have one, follow these steps for There are many ways to groom a well-groomed facial hair. ƒƒ Beard trimmers are easier to moustache. Decide how you want yours use than scissors, as you can to look before following these instructions. ƒƒ Shave exposed parts of cheeks and adjust trimmer settings to cut neck as normal hair at various lengths ƒƒ Wet your moustache slightly ƒƒ Wash off any remaining shaving cream ƒƒ Set your beard trimmer to a ƒƒ Use a fine-tooth moustache / beard ƒƒ Use either scissors or a beard trimmer longer hair length if you’re comb to brush the hair down to groom your beard new to using one - you don’t ƒƒ Clip the hair on the outer edges of your ƒƒ Wet your beard slightly want to cut too short on your moustache with a pair of thin scissors. ƒƒ Clip conservatively around the beard’s first attempt Remember to clip conservatively upper edges ƒƒ Wet hair is longer than dry ƒƒ Snip across the bottom of the ƒƒ Snip around cheeks and along the hair, so trim a little at a time. moustache jawline ƒƒ Trim the body of the moustache to ƒƒ Clip very little, reducing the beard’s achieve the desired evenness and volume slowly to the desired length bushiness, clip errant hairs ƒƒ Clip stray hairs until the beard is even ƒƒ Wash away clippings.

33 Chapter 6 | How to Groom your Beard and Moustache

ƒƒ Touch up the top of the moustache with a razor until you have the desired line. If you have an unusual Tips moustache, such as a pencil-thin or handle-bar moustache, use the razor ƒƒ Work carefully, clipping even more or less as appropriate. Take a small amount of hair can care not to shave off the top of the change the appearance of a moustache accidentally! moustache - drastically ƒƒ Comb again with the moustache comb ƒƒ A beard trimmer is an excellent tool for reducing bushiness Beards and moustaches can cause ƒƒ For fancier styles, use itching on the skin, treat this and stop moustache wax to shape it from happening with a quality Beard and groom. Wash which will also nourish the bristles and stop the dreaded ‘beard frizz.

Beard brush

34 Chapter 7 Shaving Problems

35 Chapter 7

Shaving Problems

Shaving Related Skin Problems Many side effects can be minimised by This condition is extremely common in using a fresh blade, plenty of lubrication, people of African descent, who have Shaving related problems usually respond avoiding shaving against the grain and curly hair. The good news is that they well to a combination of proper shaving avoiding pressing too hard with the razor. can be mostly avoided by a proper technique, equipment and products. shaving technique, indeed we have Razor Bump / Ingrown Hairs helped many men over the years who For tough or non-responding persistent wanted to wet shave but thought they shaving problems, it is always best Some people have an adverse response couldn’t due to PFB. to consult with a dermatologist. In to shaving called pseudofolliculitis barbae this chapter I’ll tell you about the skin (PFB), or ‘razor bumps’ due to ingrowing An ideal shave cuts the hair flush with the problems associated with shaving, how hairs. PFB are reddish or dark coloured, surface of the skin and avoids any undue they are caused and what you can do to sometimes painful, raised areas and are friction or irritation to the surrounding minimise or prevent them happening. especially common with curly hair. skin. If you suffer from razor bumps, ingrown hair and shaving irritation, the Shaving can have side effects including: These hairs, after growing a little above chances are that you are pulling the skin the skin, have a tendency to curl and too taut during the shave and the hairs ƒƒ Razor bumps grow back into the skin. This leads to are cut too short. ƒƒ Redness the reddish, swollen areas, which can ƒƒ In-growing hairs become infected. Bumps occur when Don’t pull the skin tight and see if it ƒƒ Razor burn the hair is cut too short. Then, instead makes a difference. ƒƒ Nicks and cuts of growing back out of the skin it curls ƒƒ Razor rash. round and then grows into the skin layer.

36 Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems

Shaving Problems Geo F Trumper Skin Food is another use plenty of moisturising shaving cream product that can be applied daily after or shaving soap, not face soap, as an How do I Treat Razor Bumps and shaving. It is effective at fighting ingrown added cushion. Ingrowing Hairs? hairs and helps calm redness associated with shaving and waxing. Use a pre-shave oil, a shaving brush and a If you can see ingrown hairs, try to tease good quality shaving cream or soap made the tips of the hairs out of the skin. Soak Razor Burns from natural ingredients to avoid a reaction a flannel in hot water and apply it to your to harsh chemicals. Make sure you have a skin for a few minutes. This should soften Razor burns are burning sensations and rich, creamy lather on your face and try not the hairs to enable you to pull the hair out irritation more often than not caused by to press too hard with the razor. of the ‘bump’ with a pair of fine tweezers. applying too much pressure with the Cut the loose end with a pair of scissors. razor and or, shaving with a blunt blade. Soothing Razor Burn When too much pressure is applied there Avoid shaving for a few days. Then cut is no effective barrier between your face There are 100s of after shave balms the beard with scissors quite close to and the razor. available, some good, some not so the skin. As the hair grows, it should good. The best ones will soothe, cool grow slightly straighter and not back into The result is friction burns, more and moisturise the skin, our Executive the skin. commonly known as razor burns. Shaving offering is made with water drawn from a Scottish Loch, Intensive Remember when you continue to shave Preventing Razor Burn Moisturising Balm. Dr. Shave has not to pull the skin too tight or shave intensely moisturised skin because of his against the direction of hair growth. The first thing to do is change the blade technique and the cream - smooth. at least once a week - a new, sharp razor An application of Aloe Clear can reduce blade will skim lightly over your skin Shaving Rash / Folliculitis or the condition of ingrown hair, this roll-on without irritating it. Barber’s Rash gel treats ingrown hairs, shaving rash, shaving bump and cools and soothes Be sure to let the warm water soften your This is an infection of the hair follicles, shaved skin. skin and hair before getting started, and particularly of the facial hair. It causes

37 Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems

red, painful and pus-filled blisters due to hairs, razor burn/bumps resulting from To avoid the problems associated with an infection of the hair follicles. shaving, waxing, electrolysis and laser shaving, it is important that the proper hair removal. technique be followed for shaving. Shaving rash is more of a problem with men who have curly hair and is How to Avoid Shaving Problems A shaving cream or soap should be similar to ‘razor bumps’, the symptoms used prior to shaving, to lubricate and are unsightly red or darkened, painful Experience has shown that shaving with a moisten the skin and facilitate a close ‘bumps’ which can lead to ‘scarring’ in double edge, safety razor tends to provide yet comfortable and pleasurable shave. severe cases. These severe cases may smooth shaves with less chance of causing Needless to say, the equipment used need treated with an antibiotic. shaving irritation and ingrown hairs than for shaving should always be clean and electric razors and multi blade cartridge blades should be changed regularly. Hairs are most likely to grow inwards razors such as Mach3 and Fusion. if you pull too tightly on the skin whilst Avoid using a dull shaving blade as it can shaving. The hairs raise out of the follicle Blades should be changed at least leave your skin red and blotchy. when you pull the skin and after the weekly, more often if skin irritation cut, the tip of the hair retracts into the persists. What Relief is Available? follicle and curls into the follicle as it begins to grow. This causes the shaving Shaving creams and soaps are important To achieve relief from these problems first rash and razor bumps. To minimise any in the treatment of this condition, as check that the skin appears to be free inflammation and irritation it is best to let a good lather will minimise the friction from infection – angry red areas or spots the hair grow back until the rash is gone associated with shaving and reduce are symptoms – if present, treat with an before you try removing it again. the likelihood of ingrown hairs and antiseptic solution or cream. skin irritation. Treatment of Shaving Rash What Treatments are Available? Shaving foams and gels as previously Shaving rash can be treated with stated are simply not up to the job and Treatment of tough cases of PFB often Aloe Clear. Aloe Clear is a roll-on gel perform badly compared to quality requires prescription only remedies. formulated to aid in the relief of ingrown shaving creams and soaps.

38 Chapter 7 | Shaving Problems

Vitamin A related products such as Retin it reduces razor burn, stops minor bleeds A (tretinoin) or Differin (adapalene) may and kills surface bacteria on the skin. be prescribed in some cases and work by helping exfoliate skin both on the surface Now you have all the information you and around the follicles. need and with good quality tools and products and a clean sharp blade you Skin Food and Aloe Clear is also helpful can enjoy the benefits of a perfect shave for many PFB suffers. every day that leaves you looking and feeling great. For most people, these over the counter products provide sufficient control of shaving related problems. For tough or treatment resistant shaving problems, it Shaving Problems is always best to consult personally with a dermatologist. www.executive-shaving.co.uk

Help, I’ve cut myself! If you would like more information on anything In the unfortunate event of ‘nicking’ in this guide you can yourself while shaving, apply a styptic contact us via e-mail at: pencil with its vessel constricting [email protected] astringent properties to curb any minor bleeding.

Another highly recommended remedy is the fantastic alum block. You simply wet the block and rub it over your chin and neck. The alum block is a mild antiseptic;

39 EXECUTIVE SHAVING www.executive-shaving.co.uk