Paul Mitchell Artists Imagine the Future

BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS JULY 2018

20 YEARS OF COLOR: PAUL MITCHELL ARTISTS IMAGINE THE FUTURE Barberology Crafts the Sharper Image ■ IT LIST ■ The New Shoppers’ Paradise ■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Stacey Whittaker Takes a Deep Dive with Bold Makeup ■ BEAUTY VAULT ■ The Long and Short on Wigs and Extensions

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CONTENTS July 2018 VOLUME 141, NUMBER 7 departments features

➤ in every issue 31 53 60 AmericanSalon.com 22 ■ IT LIST ■ BEAUTY VAULT Seeing the Future Publisher’s Note 24 Fabulous finds from Unlocking this John Paul Mitchell Systems celebrates 20 years of Editor’s Note 26 the pop culture scene month’s cutting-edge Co ver Look 28 professional haircolor Stylish travel techniques and the Archive 76 accessories; Pat products to create with a fashion-forward McGrath visits The them collection. Met; a must-see Color care essentials; th Margiela exhibit; a the perfect July 4 mani; an over-the- 66 shower essential gets a Bathing Beauties makeover. rainbow haircolor Retro meets modern- technique day glamour in Stacey 45 Whittaker’s makeup ■ THINK TANK 59 collection. The go-to guide for ■ TALK SHOW salon profitability Young Americans 72 Sally Hershberger How Caitlyn FADEX and Joel Warren go Draper went from Barberology proves that the shopping; how to build construction to coifs fade is a classic that won’t your business with ever fade away. wigs and extensions; social media musts. 68

59 45

61 75

18 americansalon.com July 2018 TRUSTED GROOMING PRODUCTS CRAFTED BY BARBERS FOR BARBERS.

TO JOIN OUR BARBERING TEAM, VISIT EDITORIAL Editorial Director KELLEY DONAHUE; [email protected] Art Director JORDINO DE LOS SANTOS; [email protected] Senior Editor KRISTEN HEINZINGER; [email protected] Social & Digital Editor BRYANT CHASE; [email protected] Associate Digital Editor MICHELLE MCKELVEY; [email protected] Contributing Editors NICOLE ALTAVILLA CORIE HENGST

MANAGEMENT Publisher BRETT VINOVICH; [email protected]

SALES/MARKETING Eastern Regional Sales Manager DAVIDE LANUTO; [email protected] Account Manager KRISTINE COMPTON; [email protected] Group Marketing Director TINA KASSIMIS; [email protected] Senior Marketing & Education Manager NATASHA BHALLA; [email protected]

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Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use of specific clients is granted by Questex LLC, for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center (CCC), 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923. Phone: 978/750-8400; fax: 978/750-4470. Call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media, 877/652-5295. American Salon does not verify any claims or other information appearing in any of the advertisements contained in the publication and cannot take any responsibility for losses or other damages incurred by readers in reliance on such content. American Salon welcomes unsolicited articles, manuscripts, photographs, illustrations and other materials but cannot be held responsible for their safekeeping or return. Questex LLC provides certain customer contact data (such as customers’ names, addresses, phone numbers and e-mail addresses) to third parties who wish to promote relevant products, services and other opportunities that may be of interest to you. If you do not want Questex LLC to make your contact information available to third parties for marketing purposes, simply call 866/344-1315 or 847/513-6024 if outside the U.S. between the hours of 8:30 a.m. and 5 p.m.

American Salon (ISSN 0741-5737) is published monthly (12 issues) by Questex LLC, 757 Third Ave., 5th Floor, New York, NY 10017. Subscription rates $44.00, 1-year, $66.00, 2-year in the United States & Possessions; $57.00, 1-year $85.00, 2-year in Canada and Mexico; all other countries $66.00, 1-year, $99.00, 2-year. For air-expedited service, include an additional $75 per order annually. Single copies (prepaid only): $8.00 in the United States; $10.00 in Canada and Mexico: all other countries $12.00. Include $6.50 per order plus $2 per additional copy for U.S. postage and handling. Periodicals postage paid at New York, NY 10199 and additional mailing offices. Post Master: Send address changes to American Salon PO Box 1267, Skokie, IL 60076-8267. Canadian G.S.T. number: 840 033 278 RT 0001. Publications Mail Agreement Number 40017597. Printed in the U.S.A. Copyright 2017 by Questex LLC, All rights reserved. No part of this publication may be reproduced or transmitted in any form or by any means, electronic or mechanical, including by photocopy, re ording or information storage and retrieval system, without permission in writing from the publisher. Authorization to photocopy items for internal or personal use, or the internal or personal use of specific clients, is granted by Questex LLC for libraries and other users registered with the Copyright Clearance Center, 222 Rosewood Drive, Danvers, MA 01923, phone: 978/750-8400, fax: 978/750-4470; call for copying beyond that permitted by Sections 107 and 108 of the U.S. Copyright Law. For those not registered with the CCC, send permission requests to Wright’s Media 877/652-5295. Unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other material will not be returned. Publisher assumes no responsibility for unsolicited manuscripts, photographs, art, and other materials. To order reprints contact Wright’s Media 877/652-5295.

20 americansalon.com July 2018 AVAILABLE at: americansalon.com

IT’S NO SECRET that operating a salon is a tough job. We’re recognizing those who are going above and Secrets beyond in our new and ongoing Secrets to Success to series. From the big-city players to the small-town shop owners, we’re asking how they make the client Success experience exceptional and uncovering the helpful tips they’re picking up along the way. americansalon.com/topic/secrets-to-success

Pickthorn Studio, Brooklyn, NY

Salon Ruggeri, New York City

Give ’Em Something to Talk About ON TOP OF UNCOVERING a client’s beauty wishes, a successful consultation develops rapport and assures the client that they’re in good CALLING ALL hands. Industry notables gave us their take on COSMETOLOGY STUDENTS! what to ask, what to avoid and the ultimate goal EACH YEAR, A GROUP OF STUDENTS wins the of the consultation. Tip No. 1: Position yourself in opportunity to jump-start their careers after front of the client and make eye contact. cosmetology school, thanks to the Beacon Awards, americansalon.com/hair/consultation-101 a national student competition that grants industry exposure and a ticket to the Beacon event held during Cosmoprof in Las Vegas. We chatted with previous winners about how the award propelled their careers. Beacon 2019 entries open June 7. americansalon.com/business-career/beacon-awards

Eric Fisher, Aquage platform artist

STAY IN TOUCH

PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

americansalon @American_Salon

22 americansalon.com July 2018 publisher’s note

IN THE MOMENT NOW THAT SMARTPHONES have become as ubiquitous as pens, pencils and paper, many people—myself included—have been using them to record and share experiences, from family events to classes at beauty shows. In fact, existing surveys reveal that almost 5 billion posts to Facebook, 500 million tweets to Twitter, 70 million pictures to Instagram and 12 years’ worth of video to YouTube occur every day. While these social platforms keep us in touch and up-to-date, some in the scientific community are asking how much, and at what cost, does using them to record and share events change the way we experience them?

A new paper from Princeton University Assistant Professor Diana Tamir published in the Journal of Experimental Social Psychology explores that question. Tamir and her team of researchers conducted three studies in which participants watched TED Talks or went on self-guided tours of a church on Stanford University’s campus and recorded their experiences in different ways. They either took photos and notes for themselves; took and posted images to Facebook; recorded the event but didn’t save it; or internally reflected on it. They were asked to weigh in on how much they enjoyed the experience and if their mind wandered during it. The upshot? The results revealed that everyday moments are fleeting, but media allows us to hold onto them. But, ironically, the results also suggested that using media to preserve these moments may prevent us from fully experiencing them in the first place. These effects can be both substantial and sustained: Media distracts us from experiences, limiting our ability to remember the

moments we so wish to hold on to. No more posting for me today. SHUTTERSTOCK PHOTOGRAPHY: —Brett Vinovich, publisher, [email protected] JOIN US AS WE BECOME

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MANE MAN ONE OF THE THINGS I LOVE MOST ABOUT MY JOB is having the opportunity to catch up with industry artists who also happen to be good friends. I recently had the chance to do just that when I ran into Kelly Cardenas at the Paul Mitchell Schools’ FUNraising Gala at the Beverly Hilton in April. For those of you who don’t know Cardenas, he is the owner of five successful salons, including one at the Hard Rock Hotel in Las Vegas, and he also happens to be a great guy who’s passionate about his craft and life in general. Perhaps one of his most endearing qualities, though, is that he is a lifelong learner and excellent teacher. During our chat, he told me all about his latest project—The 6 Indicators for Business & Life (Emerge Publishing 2018)—to help those in the industry expand their minds. Here are some key takeaways from our conversation.

Culture Is Essential: Creating a culture is how you get people to buy into your story. Establishing a clear definition of success helps to strengthen the threshold of your belief system and makes the culture you’ve formed all the more sustainable. Create a Vibe: A manager will react to their environment’s vibe but a leader will create one. “Vibe is something that can be manipulated but never forced,” says Cardenas. “Creating the proper one is a metaphor for life: Identify the crop, prepare the soil, plant the seed, water and patiently wait for the harvest.” Make Process a Priority: When something breaks in your work environment, get it fixed as humanly as possible. “Helping people to understand ‘the why’ will breathe life into everything you do, and knowing that rules are nothing more than a list of your screw-ups will provide them with the freedom they need to unlock their potential,” says Cardenas. Implement Productivity: A goal fulfilled that’s not celebrated has about the same value as one not set. “Productivity must be measured, written down, displayed and celebrated,” says Cardenas. Commit to Innovation: People and cultures are in need of constant innovation. “You don’t have to make monumental shifts as long as you continue to make progress,” says Cardenas. Be Adaptable: Success in life and business teeters on the ability to adapt. “When things in your business or relationship start to break down or require adjustment, these six indicators will get you back on track,” says Cardenas. “There are no magic beans—only hard work and perspective help you to improve in all that you do.” Sage advice, indeed.—Kelley Donahue, editorial director, [email protected] PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF KELLY CARDENAS KELLY OF COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

cover look BEAUTY IS OUR BUSINESS JULY 2018

• LONG LASTING CONDITIONING CELEBRATION 20 YEARS OF COLOR: PAUL MITCHELL FORMULA DIRECT DYE SERIES ARTISTS IMAGINE THE FUTURE Barberology Crafts the Sharper Image ■ IT LIST ■ The New Shoppers’ Paradise ■ YOUNG AMERICANS ■ Stacey Whittaker Takes a Deep Dive with Bold Makeup • FADE RESISTENT OF COLOR ■ BEAUTY VAULT ■ The Long and Short on Wigs and Extensions • 10 INTER-MIXABLE SHADES In honor of 20 years of Paul Mitchell professional haircolor, • ACIDIC PH an artistic team hand-selected by JPMS Artistic Director for Professional Haircolor Colin Caruso created the 20/20 collection, which showcases JPMS’ full spectrum, including techniques and colors from the The Color XG, The Demi and POP XG lines that are fashion-forward, yet attainable for stylists to recreate on clients. “At the intersection of past and present, creativity and craftsmanship is where you’ll find [our] four new haircolor and cutting techniques,” says Caruso. “As a brand with a passion for living colorfully, we put our love for innovation and education front and center.” Th e shoot, which took place at Gearbox Studios in Van Nuys, CA, was shot by Benjo Arwas, who was selected for his talent in different mediums including digital, Polaroid and Super 8 film, and for his ability to make collages that have a multidimensional, multifaceted perspective. According to Caruso, the team spent a lot of time preparing—they even filmed the process and plan to release it as a mini-documentary. For Lucie Doughty, JPMS creative director, her favorite part was seeing the team’s reaction to the first shots. “Building a board of final images and watching it come together is priceless. It takes a village, and it makes the celebration at the end so much more special.”—Nicole Altavilla

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP RIGHT: The JPMS artistic team doing final touch-ups; JPMS Artistic Director for Professional Haircolor Colin Caruso (center) and team members; JPMS is celebrating 20 years of haircolor; JPMS Editorial Director Noogie Thai styles waves.

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TO THE IT LIST LETTER HIT THE ROAD in style with these stylish yet functional Teddy Tags from London-based styling duo Charlotte Stockdale and Katie Lyall’s brand, Chaos. Crafted from leather and soft chenille, the colorful Alphabet tags make recognizing your luggage at the airport a snap. shop.chaos.club—KD

MAKEUP AT THE MET Makeup guru Pat McGrath has teamed up with The Metropolitan Museum of Art for a capsule collection honoring its latest Costume Institute exhibit, Heavenly Bodies. The Pat McGrath Labs x The Met collab includes Mothership IV: Decadence Eyeshadow Palette and Lust: Gloss Aliengelic in ornate packaging that captures the FRENCH CONNECTION exhibit’s divine vibes. store.metmuseum.org—KH No trip to the City of Lights would be complete this summer without a stop at the Musée des Arts Décoratifs to take in Margiela, les années Hermès. The exhibition features videos, photos and more than 100 pieces from Martin Margiela’s collaboration with Hermès from 1997 to 2003. madparis.fr/en—KD

Noteworthy This seven-notepad set from Bernard Maisner, whose work has been featured in Vogue and The New York Times, is the ultimate show- stopper. Inscribed by the renowned master calligrapher and stationer with some of the most desirable traits, the pads will remind you of all that’s good in life every day. bernardmaisner.com—KD PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

July 2018 americansalon.com 31 ■

IT LIST TEA TIME The health perks of tea have been touted since Ancient China, and Teasane has found a way to turn those benefits into good hair days. Hair Here is the brand’s herbal blend featuring magnesium- and calcium-rich horsetail and alfalfa, fennel, and more, helping to prevent hair loss and strengthening existing strands. liveteasane.com—KH

PARIS MATCH Some scents have the ability to transport you to a place in GILTY PLEASURE time. Consider the Oh Mon Dieu! No. 69 artisan candle from For a cool and sophisticated summer style, sweep hair into L’Objet. Encased in Limoges a chignon and slither in the gilded serpent Delilah Hairpin porcelain vessel reflective of by Jennifer Behr. Bonus: The accessory extraordinaire Paris’ bohemian lifestyle in 1969, handmakes her creations in New York City, so each piece is the aromatic expression—created one of a kind. jenniferbehr.com—KH from natural oils and essences such as cognac, caramel, coriander, leather, incense and oakmoss—is blended and poured by hand. l-objet.com—KD

Shower with Love File this one under: Things I Didn’t Know I Needed. Shhhowercap’s millennial founder turned a ho-hum bathing staple into a high-end waterproof turban. The nano-tech fabric is hydrophobic—meaning water beads up and slides off, and it dries instantly—plus it’s antibacterial and breathable, so humidity won’t damper your client’s ’do. shhhowercap.com—KH PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

32 americansalon.com July 2018 WIG DESIGN: LAURENCE BATE HAIRSTYLING: FRANK CAMPANELLA ART DIRECTION: YASMINA PADRON RAQUEL WELCH HUMAN HAIR COLLECTION WIGS AND HAIR ADDITIONS 100% HUMAN HAIR EXTENSIONS Professional Use Only – Certiﬁ cation required

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For ﬁ fty years, HairUWear’s innovative wigs, hairpieces, hair extensions and hair systems have blended popular style trends with cutting-edge technology to give women and men the power to instantly transform their hairstyles. Thank you for being part of our journey. HAIR AND NOW Wigs and extensions certainly have come a long way since first popularized in the latter half of the 20th century, thanks to HairUWear (originally known as Eva Gabor International), a crusader for quality craftsmanship, innovation and product advancement in the hair enhancement arena. Here are some of the major moments in the evolution of this iconic company.

< 1968 The HairUWear legacy begins as Eva Gabor Wig Boutique Ltd.

1971 The company changes its name to Eva Gabor International and rolls out Capless Wigs, which do away with the “wiggy” look and the hot, sticky feel of cap wigs.

1972 < 1976 Eva Gabor International The company patents the Permatese forms two new divisions: process, a way of permanently a professional one that “ruffling” each strand of wig fiber at services salons and its root to force it to rise off the wig specialty wig retailers, base for permanent body and height. and an international arm that provides wigs 1979 Together with wife Denise around the globe. and mother Eleanor, Michael Napolitano establishes American Hairlines, offering professional, nonsurgical hair replacement stock and custom systems for men and women.

1981 1988 Perma-lift, Eva Gabor The Comfort Cap with a wide, velvet band 1997 The company adds the International’s newest in the front eliminates netting at the top of Celebrity Signatures innovation, takes the wig for comfort and increased airflow. International division. volume a step further, 1994 Michael Napolitano also creating a soft underbed The Hair Trix brand launches, targeting acquires the exclusive U.S. of short fibers to the younger wig wearer. distribution rights for Great support long ones, 1996 Lengths, a revolutionary so wigs have natural- American Hairlines president and CEO European human hair looking body and height Michael Napolitano assumes controlling enhancement system, to without added weight. interest in Eva Gabor International, form Great Lengths USA. merging the two companies.

Sponsored Content < 1998 < 2002 The Raquel Welch Signature Collection is American Hairlines launched. Designed for the fashion-conscious launches the Virtual woman, the wigs feature a patented Reality brand, an Memory Cap construction and styles with advanced micro- multidimensional hues. thin and flush hair replacement system for men. Simultaneously, 2001 Put On Pieces, a Great Lengths USA introduces an ultrasonic collection of clip-in application method, giving stylists the hair additions, makes freedom of more versatile, heat-free bonding. its debut.

2009 2014 The Raquel Welch Collection takes its HairUWear patented Memory Cap construction a step Professional further with Memory Cap II, featuring a is born. Its first finer stretch lace that’s lighter and cooler product offering, for greater comfort and a secure fit. HairUWear Professional 2012 Internationally Celebrity Signatures International Clip-in Extensions, revolutionizes the salon 2015 acclaimed artist Angelo Seminara merges with Eva Gabor International, business. That same year, Great Lengths USA joins Great Lengths in a new changing its name to HairUWear and debuts GL Apps, a high-speed, double-sided, top-class collaboration designed reinventing itself into a multi-branded, single tab tape-in hair extension system. to elevate the artistry of fashion-focused company. hairdressing.

2016 2018 Great Lengths launches The Raquel Welch Couture GL Tapes and GL Tapes+, a 50-shade Collection is launched. The line of customizable and discreet wigs are made from certified professional tape-in extensions, with 100-percent Remy human smaller adhesive tabs and more hair hair and feature French Drawn density per tab. Pinnacle Caps that make the knots invisible and the wigs virtually undetectable. Hairdo is reinvented as a fun and 2017 POP by Hairdo, a fun and free-spirited brand focusing on colorful hair accessory collection, debuts. achieving stylish hair that melds Memory Cap III is released, taking Raquel individuality with a fashion- Welch Collection’s patented Memory Cap forward vibe. technology to a new level. MAN OF ACTION Since taking the helm at HairUWear, Michael Napolitano has been laser-focused on bringing alternative hair to the forefront of the professional beauty industry. That’s especially true in this milestone year, when Napolitano is not only commemorating 50 years of success, but he’s also inspiring future growth with key product launches, dynamic education and a brand vision destined to carry on for generations. American Salon Editorial Director Kelley Donahue recently caught up with the charismatic president and CEO for the scoop. Tell us about your background and what led to the formation and the wigs and toppers virtually undetectable. of HairUWear. MN: It all started in 1979 when I launched American Hairlines. Education has long been considered the cornerstone of Sixteen years later, I acquired Eva Gabor International from salon success. What learning initiatives are you and your Cargill Industries and merged the two companies. Eva Gabor team investing in to ensure that beauty pros capture their fair International became HairUWear Inc. Subsequently, I introduced share of the alternative hair business? Great Lengths in 1997 and launched Raquel Welch in 1998—key MN: Whether a novice or a seasoned artist, HairUWear offers moves that underscored we were well on our way to reinventing unparalleled education for all experience levels, providing the company into the multi-branded, fashion-focused business beauty pros with a thorough understanding on a range of topics, it is today. We are proud to be the global leader in alternative hair including the differences in cap constructions and hair fiber; how accessories, extensions, and systems for women and men. to employ clip-in synthetic and human hair extensions and shade selection to create a variety of client looks and customization, HairUWear has carved out quite a legacy in the professional including cutting, styling, texturizing and steaming; and technical beauty business. Which major milestones are you most hands-on training for the application and removal of hair proud of? extensions. When it comes to education, our goal is to provide MN: It’s impossible to pick just a few. Hard as it is to believe, 20 beauty pros with the tools and knowledge necessary to address years ago, the hair extension business was virtually nonexistent and cater to clients’ various hair replacement and enhancement in the U.S. beyond the ethnic markets. People thought I was needs—be it for fashion, convenience or medical reasons. crazy when I purchased Eva Gabor International and introduced Great Lengths shortly thereafter. But I believed there was a big Fill us in on the innovative marketing strategies being market waiting to be tapped. Perhaps what I’m most proud of is deployed for the brands. the meteoric success we have achieved as well as the role we’ve MN: We’re in an era where personalization is more important played in building this great industry. What’s more, I’m extremely than ever and is the next big evolution for marketing to proud of our longevity as a leader. We have been, and continue consumers and customers. At every single point that customers to be, committed to the professional hairdressing community. engage with marketing and sales efforts, there should be a call- Celebrating our 50th anniversary is a major milestone. I’m to-action that leads back to your contact page, landing page, humbled and appreciative of our loyal customers and dedicated opt-in form and so on. With that in mind, we’ve launched a new employees. We wouldn’t be here without them and that’s mobile app that allows us to put our phenomenal education, something we never take for granted. customer service, news, special offers, marketing assets and more right in the palm of the hand. This new app is a major Tell us about some of the hero products in the HairUWear innovation because it takes our customer relationships to the portfolio. next level. MN: It’s hard to narrow them down to just a few! Great Lengths’ professionally applied hair extensions—now What one thing do you want beauty pros to remember when available in both keratin bonded and tape-in methods— they think of HairUWear? use the highest quality Indian Remy hair, which is ethically MN: Our passion and commitment to constantly bringing sourced and completely traceable. The brand’s patented innovative products to market with uncompromised quality and depigmentation processes do not use bleach or ammonia style, providing superior customer service and unparalleled derivatives, which leaves the strands in virgin-like condition. education, and supporting our brands with bold and dynamic Meanwhile, Raquel Couture is a luxurious collection of lifestyle marketing. These have been the keys to our success in certified 100-percent Remy human hair wigs and top pieces our first five decades and will continue to drive our success in the featuring a French Drawn Top that makes the knots invisible next 50 years. SHE’S GOT THE LOOK For two decades, Raquel Welch has been inspiring style with a collection of fresh, fashion-forward wigs, extensions and hair pieces that are loaded with natural texture and movement.

Wig Collection, as one can get. “Raquel Couture truly featuring offers the ultimate in comfort—whether synthetic wigs your customer is simply looking for a and top pieces, fashionable style or is suffering from recently took its complete hair loss,” says Laurence groundbreaking Bate, vice president of design and Memory Cap production. “For those clients who construction to a desire a little extra length or fullness, new plateau with there’s the Indulgence top piece, which the introduction seamlessly blends with their own hair. of Memory All in all, Raquel Couture is rooted in Cap III. This tradition, dedicated to technique and revolutionary epitomizes modern luxury.” breakthrough in Rounding out the brand is Raquel wig design, which Welch Black Label, a hand-tailored involves coating the stretch lace on the back and sides with a fine, flexible silicone, now produces a aking women even more beautiful more secure fit Mthan they already are has been and also elevates comfort. “It actually the driving force of HairUWear’s Raquel molds to the shape of the head for a Welch Collection since its inception lighter, cooler, custom-like look that is in 1998. “When you feel good about perfect for women’s active lifestyles,” collection of wigs and toppers that your hair, you radiate beauty and says Michael Ferrara, chief marketing exude sophistication. Made from confidence,” says the beauty icon officer at HairUWear. 100-percent human hair, Black Label’s and legendary actress, who serves Also making headlines is Raquel offerings bring sophistication to the as creative director of the largest and Couture, a wig collection that forefront, providing clients with endless most-respected wig collection around redefines luxury. The luxe line features options. “Trends come and go, but this the globe. unparalleled handcraftsmanship and versatile collection of beautiful looks has Celebrating 20 years in business state-of-the-art design details such as an ageless quality that withstands the this year, the brand continues to set new 100-percent Remy human hair and a test of time,” says Ferrara. standards for styling, innovation and French Drawn quality craftsmanship when it comes Top with hidden to wigs, hair extensions and pieces. knots that make “I’ve witnessed enormous advances the wigs virtually in technology that have allowed for undetectable. This countless improvements in the coloring, results in shiny, fibers, construction and wearability of resilient hair that is our wig products, which means they full, natural-looking are lighter and more natural-looking and and soft to the user-friendly than ever before,” says touch, making it as Welch. Case in point: The Raquel Welch close to custom PIECE CORPS Long known for innovative technology, Great Lengths proves its versatility with expanded offerings in the hair extension category that satisfy clients’ need for speed and increased styling options while boosting salon revenue.

ith everyone from celebrities like Blake Lively, extension services WJennifer Lopez, Beyoncé and Rooney Mara to stay- to a broader at-home moms and even professional women rocking client base. The extensions, it’s no wonder why hair accessories are new application skyrocketing in popularity. “Hair extensions have definitely method, which can entered the mainstream,” says HairUWear Chief Marketing be used either as a Officer Michael Ferrara. “Besides the obvious benefit of single- or double- amped-up volume, beauty pros are using them to change tape attachment, the shape or color and even add texture to clients’ hair. is available in various lengths and more than 60 hues. While the application process may be different, one thing that hasn’t changed is the quality of hair. “Though more affordable, these two new innovations feature the same ethically sourced, Remy human hair procured from the same sources as our strand-by-strand extensions that Great Lengths is known for,” says Jennifer Martin, marketing director. Above and beyond those benefits, GL Tapes and GL Tapes Plus are reusable, last six to eight weeks, and can be worn on very fine hair. And GL Tapes Plus has an additional advantage: It can be used as the top piece of the panel in finer areas around the face, the crown, or near the part-line. “The hair is blended up to the tapeline, covering the adhesive strip, making GL Tapes Plus undetectable,” says Martin.

Not surprisingly, the growing demand for these game- changing products was the catalyst behind two recent additions to the Great Lengths portfolio. Fun and fast (a full-head application takes approximately less than 90 minutes), GL Tapes and GL Tapes Plus are time- saving tape-in systems that sandwich the client’s hair between two separate pieces, providing stylists with yet another avenue to introduce CHANGE AGENTS Hairdo delivers the presto-chango looks clients are seeking without the commitment.

rom the “now you see it, Sam McKnight, the esteemed Fnow you don’t” fishtail British hairstylist who has tended look supermodel Coco Rocha to the tresses of everyone from sported to actress Ruth Negga Princess Diana to Lady Gaga, told swapping out her signature pixie allure.com. “A wig or hairpiece is cut for braids, supermodels now an accessory.” That perspective, coupled with the world of instant gratification we find ourselves living in, is fueling the trend for quick hair fixes that allow clients to change up their looks as often as they change their makeup. Right on cue, Hairdo has created a range of transformative bangs, ponytails, wraps and more that deliver styles at the speed of life. The assortment, available in 14 fashion-forward shades, is made from heat- and humidity-resistant Tru2Life fiber and retains its curly or straight shape even during inclement weather. Clip-in hair extensions made and celebrities are playing a from 100-percent human hair are key role in altering viewpoints also part of the Hairdo mix. The about hairpieces. “The attitude pretty and versatile assortment towards extensions and wigs has is ideal for color-shy clients who completely and utterly changed,” want to enhance their look with highlights or lowlights without making a haircolor commitment. For those who desire in- demand haircolor and creative styling possibilities without making a huge commitment, the Hairdo Fantasy Color Wig collection is the only choice. “From white and bright to pretty pastels, options abound with these wigs, which are available in a multitude of ready- to-wear hues,” Michael Ferrara, HairUWear chief marketing officer, says. “Clients can try it out for a day, a night or as long as their mood desires.” ALL AMERICAN American Hairlines’ exclusive hair replacement systems provide a plethora of options for women and men suffering from fine, thinning hair or complete hair loss.

ccording to the American Indeed, the newest constructions AAcademy of Dermatology, from the brand are modern marvels, approximately 80 million men and providing enhanced benefits that women in the United States suffer clients’ desire in ways never before possible. Lightweight yet remarkably durable, these flexible application options meld comfort with security. For example, to its original mission, has spawned American Elite Fusion—another breakthrough Hairlines’ that utilizes patent-pending Open Integration Plus Fusion Technology. Also made with enables women 100-percent human hair that resists afflicted with any shedding, the comfortable, secure level of hair loss and discrete system beautifully blends to regain her full, with clients’ own hair without the need healthy looking for shaving. locks sans “Whether we’re talking patchy shaving, braiding, hair loss on top or various levels of adhesive, clips, thinning all over, these two systems cables or beads, with Open Fusion Technology, which filler powders or can be attached with clips, tape or strategic styling integrated with clients’ own hair, from hereditary thinning or baldness. to cover sparse areas. Here’s how the break new ground, giving women the What’s more, 40 percent of women stress-free solution works: 100-percent freedom of choice to wear them for show signs of hair loss by age 50 and human hair is hand-tied to an open one hour, one day or three months,” less than 45 percent of them reach grid pattern of spiderweb-thin threads, says Ferrara. “That’s revolutionary.” age 80 with a full head of hair. encircled by a fine monofilament ribbon As startling as those statistics with 17 strategically placed fusion seem, the good news is that American points. Stylists merely draw their client’s Hairlines, a division of HairUWear, hair through the spiderweb center is stepping up its efforts to supply and at the fusion points for a smooth, non-surgical, cosmetic solutions to seamless integration without bumps or the follically challenged among us. ridges. “This exciting, patent-pending “We infused the latest technology Open Fusion Technology won’t overtax, with unsurpassed style and versatility inhibit or stunt hair growth, making it the in our life-changing hair replacement perfect solution for women experiencing systems,” says the company’s Chief hair loss,” Ferrara adds. Marketing Officer Michael Ferrara. Likewise, the brand’s ability to “We call it ‘Innovation to Admire!’” constantly innovate, while staying true

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THE SALON PROJECT AT SAKS FIFTH AVENUE JOEL WARREN HAD A PLAN to reimagine with a towel around her neck and her hair the salon model, but he needed the right dripping,” he says. “It’s not luxurious.” partner to make it happen. Enter Saks Fifth Though the salon offers traditional Avenue, which opened the doors services, it employs augmented reality to of its Huntington, Long Island location help with upselling. Clients can “try on” to the acclaimed colorist and Warren new styles, haircolor and makeup, all of Tricomi co-founder for the first of a series which can be executed right then and of salons called The Salon Project. there. “I’m empowering the hairdresser to “Times are different and the do many things: Control the cost, booking, traditional salon model is no longer what’s happening at the chair and retail,” efficient,” Warren says. “I wanted to he adds. modernize it.” With The Salon Project, As for why he chose Saks as Warren is using technology to eliminate a partner, Warren says it’s a unique some of the payroll—the client checks in relationship. “The level of my work and checks out at the chair on an iPad— matches who the Saks customer is,” he and he updated the floor plan, installing says. “Saks is a big participant in our the sink behind the chair where the client growth, and it’s a relationship that’s hard receives all services, from cut to color and for salons to find today—they’re either in a even makeup application. As he describes standalone building, in a mall with it, “It’s like a mini salon within a salon.” other stores that don’t help promote Warren also wants to break down growth, or in a suite where they’re barriers between departments, promoting isolated.” Plus, he notes, Saks has locations collaboration between stylists, colorists, nationwide, making it easier to build his makeup artists and estheticians. “I’m trying brand. “It’s challenging today to be the to bring the hair and beauty community type of salon where a client says, ‘I went PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY: together in an environment where we can to XYZ Salon,’ instead of, ‘I went to see share and support each other. Plus, the Bobby at what’s-his-name’s salon,” Warren client’s journey has become chaotic—she’s says. “With Saks, I have the ability to make walking from one department to another that happen.” The Salon Project’s first outpost inside Saks Fifth Avenue in Hungtington, Long Island rethinks the traditional salon model with consolidated styling spaces and augmented reality.

July 2018 americansalon.com 45 USA Tel: 718-961-0767 • 1-888-715-6100 Email: [email protected] ■

THINK TANK SALLY HERSHBERGER AT BARNEYS NEW YORK

SALLY HERSHBERGER, ALREADY with two bustling New York City salons and one in Los Angeles, opened a new location inside Barneys New York just this February, and has already struck gold. “When the partnership was presented to me, it made perfect sense. It’s where I shop, it’s where my clients shop and it has the same sensibility,” she says. “And, it’s really doing incredibly well.” So well that the team is seeing 70 to 100 new clients a month, averaging 12 a day, she says— “a hairdresser’s dream!” The endeavor was easy-breezy, Hershberger adds, as it was a move into a preexisting salon. “I put my thumbprint on it, so to speak,” she says. After a quick facelift—a fresh coat of white paint, some FROM TOP: Sally Hershberger’s of her personal art, like a Basquiat, and newest salon inside Barneys reupholstering the goldish-colored chairs New York; the space was given in black—the salon opened for business Hershberger’s personal touch, within weeks, on Valentine’s Day. “We decorated with pieces from her art collection; the salon and did it very fast. That’s kind of my nature,” Barneys New York retail her she says. 24K haircare line. Other than her rock-star staff, Hershberger credits the newest addition’s success to its location—61st and Madison— and the salon’s and Barneys’ reputations. “Women know the brand,” she says. “It’s like walking into a Prada or Hermès—you know what you’re getting. We’re about hair that moves, hair that’s sexy.” So, what lies ahead for the celebrity stylist? “I have a lot of things in the fryer that I can’t discuss yet,” Hershberger says. “But this really is the most exciting thing I’ve done in a while. It’s the only department store that I feel a connection to. It’s Barneys!” PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY:

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DISCOVER WHY WIGS AND EXTENSIONS ARE A GREAT THINK TANK WAY FOR SALONS TO HELP GROW CLIENTS’ HAIR— AND THE BOTTOM LINE.

Hair extensions and wigs are one of the fastest-growing categories in the beauty industry, and people of all ages are wigging out DANIELLE KEASLING over them. Wigs and extensions have been available for many years for those undergoing certain medical treatments and clients suffering from hair loss, but the demand for them as a statement- making accessory has seen major growth in recent years. Available in a wide range of colors, cuts and styles, wigs and extensions offer clients a quick and easy way to change their look without commitment. “Wigs are a great tool to utilize in a consult with clients to open the door to new ideas,” says Danielle Keasling, chief executive director at Great Lengths USA and owner of Salon Karma in Bluffton, SC. “Wigs are a way to create a discussion and also create a visual for the client to be realistic about what they could potentially do to change their hair.” Clients dealing with hair loss can not only gain hair, but gain confidence with the use of wigs and extensions. They are also great for adventurous clients who want to experiment with creative colors, styles and special effects like marbleizing, as well as for more conservative clients who might enjoy the simple pop of color achieved with a pre-dyed extension. According to Keasling, it’s a good idea to designate an area in the salon to display all of the wigs that’s in the visual eye of the front desk staff and stylists, but not accessible to clients. “We want the opportunity to consult and suggest what will work and won’t work for each client,” says Keasling. “These purchases are usually an investment, and making sure it’s absolutely right for the client is what will prevent unnecessary returns. Also, it gives stylists the opportunity to communicate with the guest directly and suggest add- on services such as extensions if a wig isn’t the right prescription.” Salon owners wishing to introduce wigs and extensions to their business for the first time should start by encouraging stylists to experiment with these hair accessories during their downtime by testing out color techniques on individual extensions to create on-the- spot color upsells. Stylists can also wear wigs in the salon to start the conversation with the clients, and post wigs and extensions styles on social media. It’s also helpful to give stylists incentives to receive money toward their own personal extensions with increased retail sales. “It’s a win for all parties involved,” says Keasling. “You’ll get more participation from your staff if they can earn free hair to show off.”—Nicole Altavilla PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY PHOTOGRAPHY: Salon Karma in Bluffton, SC offers wigs and extensions, and even has a designated display area that serves as visual inspiration for guests.

July 2018 americansalon.com 49 Sept. 23-24, 2018

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Collective Conscious THE HOTTEST BUSINESS TIPS FROM THE WELLA WORLD STUDIO NYC’S FIRST CREATIVE COLLECTIVE AS YOU LIKE IT Shoppable content platform Liketoknow.it has dipped This spring, Wella World Studio NYC hosted its first Creative its toes into the beauty industry with a partnership THINK TANK Collective, where hairdressers celebrated their craft and also with Ulta Beauty. For a few months, Ulta will work walked away with valuable business and marketing advice. Two of with influencers to create shoppable #LTKxUltaBeauty the event’s presenters, New Jersey-based Cuozzo Studio for Hair posts that spotlight its summer launches and link owners Joseph and Tonya Cuozzo, shared how they are finding directly to its e-commerce site. success in the salon, and how social media plays a role.—KH “We know our guests are socially inspired and that influencers are impacting their purchasing Find the Client You Want “How do you stop doing the same decisions,” says Shelley Haus, senior vice president of 1 client over and over? First, you need to decide who you want in brand marketing at Ulta Beauty. “Our partnership... your chair,” Tonya says. “Go out and find her, do her hair free, and allows us to have a unique opportunity to amplify our create a portfolio. Then, you can advertise that this is the hair that efforts, challenge traditional retail models and focus you do.” on our increasingly mobile-first shoppers.”—KH

Designate a Social Media Expert “Every salon has that 2 one person who’s good at taking pictures or videos—build that person up, even if you have to make it part of their job,” says Joseph. “Maybe it’s a stylist, or an assistant, or even your receptionist.”

Know What’s In the Box Before you break a rule, you need to

3 know the rule. “Do what you need to do to achieve the color your client wants and to make it last,” says Joseph. “But before you work outside the box, know what’s inside. I got my Master Color Expert certificate with Wella Professionals, which put me in a position to understand the chemistry and the biology.”

The Power of a Post Never underestimate the impact of the 4 right hashtag on social media. “Someone came in with a picture of Elsa from the Disney movie Frozen, and said, ‘I want my hair to look like this.’ I thought, OK, we’re going to hashtag #frozenblonde,” Joseph says. “It won three social media awards and got 250,000 likes, shares and comments.” PHOTOGRAPHY: KSENIA POULBER (COLLECTIVE CONSCIOUS); COURTESY (AS YOU LIKE IT)

FROM TOP: Tonya Cuozzo talks social media while she streams her presentation on Facebook Live; Gleam Salon owners Ismael Mosquera and Alexandra Pacheco. July 2018 americansalon.com 51

■ Color Guard PROTECT YOUR WORK AND YOUR CLIENTS’ HAIR WITH THESE COLOR-SAVERS.

You nailed your client’s haircolor, so why send her home only to undo your hard work? “Make sure to recommend BEAUTY VAULT BEAUTY the right color care products at the shampoo bowl, and explain what you’re doing and why,” says Dilek Onur-Taylor, creative director at The Salon by InStyle at JCPenney. “It’s also important to explain the difference between color protecting and color preserving, and how the latter extends color past X-number of shampoos, and other specific benefits.” Here, a few color care champions.—Kristen Heinzinger PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY OF JCP SALON (MODEL)

Scruples Total Integrity Ultra Rich Conditioner contains the Protective Barrier Complex to Moroccanoil Color Complete Color help promote healthy, shiny hair and prolong Continue Shampoo is part of the the life of haircolor. Antioxidant-rich ginger recently launched line designed and green tea extract work to defend against to preserve color integrity. The environmental damage. scrupleshaircare.com sulfate-free cleanser is formulated with ColorLink technology to repair and nourish each strand and form a protective shield to minimize color washout. moroccanoil.com

ABBA Color Protection Shampoo contains sage leaf extract, which protects color from fading and adds shine, while coconut oil smooths and softens strands. pureabba.com Biolage R.A.W. Color Care Acidic Milk Rinse features coconut milk and oat milk and is intended to be applied immediately after a color or lightening service. The acidity Paul Mitchell Tea Tree Wave Refresher Spray counteracts the alkalinity of haircolor, creates beachy styles with a color-safe formula. sealing the cuticle for a smooth and The updated line of products still gives that tea reflective finish.matrix.com tree tingle, but now provides color preservation thanks to rooibos tea extracts. paulmitchell.com

Neuma neuMoisture Shampoo is a super-hydrating cleanser that helps Pureology Style + Protect Mess It Up Texture repair hair, especially after color Paste contains the AntiFade Complex and correction or significant lightening. Rusk Deepshine PlatinumX Shine Spray guards strands against heat, pollution and UV It boasts a color-extending formula is formulated with violet pigment to rays to preserve haircolor. The paste provides with UV Guard, and is gentle so it eliminate unwanted discoloration, like medium hold and a subtle shine, plus shea won’t strip strands of moisture and brassiness and yellow tones, and to butter fights frizz.pureology.com essential oils. neumabeauty.com intensify color’s brightness. rusk1.com

July 2018 americansalon.com 53 TICKETS ON SALE NOW LAS VEGAS | JULY 29

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AMERICAN WOMAN HELP CLIENTS GET INTO the patriotic spirit for July 4th with a chic nail design, like the riff on the Champion logo created by Alicia Torello for Essie at Kith’s Spring 2018 New York Fashion Week show. Here’s how to get the look: VAULT BEAUTY

After a base coat, apply two coats 1 of nude. On the ring fingers, paint a half circle of 2 red with the flat edge going across the middle of the nail and the curved section dipping toward the nail bed. With a striping brush, add blue polish 3 along the flat edge of the semicircle of red. Apply it in an elongated “C” shape—or any shape—around the border of the nail, tapering in at the tips. On the remaining fingers, paint a vertical 4 line of red slightly to the right of the OVER THE RAINBOW middle of the nail. Then apply a strip of blue to the left side of the red line.—KH THE ILLUMINATOR AND HOLOGRAPHIC TREND has made its mark on makeup, and now clients are looking to apply it to haircolor. Redken’s new Metallic Balayage turns the technique on its head with a spectrum of shades that can be softened or magnified, like the high- impact ombre seen here, created by Redken Global Color SHARPEN UP Creative Director Josh Wood. Get his formula, below. BABYLISSPRO PLATFORM ARTISTS Dayna Gamba and Andy Mendoza reveal their tricks for how to use some of the latest innovative barbering tools. Take notes! 1. BABYLISSPRO ROSEFX METAL LITHIUM TRIMMER AND CLIPPER “The ROSEFX Trimmer comes with the zero-gapping tool to achieve a flawless taper/fade and super-clean outlines,” says Gamba. “The ROSEFX clipper can be adjusted, too. Once adjusted, you can bald out with the trimmer and take your first line out with the clipper when the taper control is all the way up.” 2. BABYLISSPRO GOLDFX METAL LITHIUM CLIPPER “The blades on the clipper are so sharp that it never pushes the hair, perfect for shaping beards and afros or creating hair art,” says Mendoza. 3. BABYLISSPRO FOILFX01 FXFS1 CORDLESS METAL SINGLE-FOIL SHAVER

Base Formula: (On natural level 4 medium brown, with “This is awesome for accurately previously lightened ombre hair) 2 oz. 6Aa Chromatics getting into small spaces, like and 2 oz. 20-volume Chromatics Oil in Cream Developer when executing a low bald taper Metallic Formula 1: 1 part City Beats Midtown Magenta or edging up the neckline,” says and 1 part Gold Gamba. “Hold the shaver in your Metallic Formula 2: 20 parts City Beats Clear, 1 part hand and lightly stroke up Gold and 1 part East Village Violet and down on the Metallic Formula 3: 15 parts City Beats Clear, 1 part stubble you wish Galaxy, 1 part Brooklyn Blue, 1 part Indigo Skyline, and 1 to take off.”—NA part Yellow Cab babylisspro.com For the technique, visit americansalon.com/hair/ metallic-balayage.—KH

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MVRCK Shave Cream is part of a new 10-piece line by John Paul Mitchell Systems in partnership with barbers in Los Angeles. The shaving staple is moisturizing and softening, and contains barley seed extract to reduce ProRituals Color Therapy Shampoo works to gently cleanse and protect the appearance of razor bumps. hair while optimizing manageability and mvrckbarbering.com VAULT BEAUTY glossiness. The formula’s low pH and natural botanicals help to prolong color results. prorituals.com

ABBA Always Fresh Dry Shampoo features a lightweight formula that includes the ProQuinoa Complex and rice starch, which absorb oils and odors and give strands a boost of lift and texture in a natural way. It’s ideal for after a workout or accidental hair oil overuse. pureabba.com

Take Stock SIX PRODUCTS YOU JUST HAVE TO CHECK OUT

Truss Infusion is an intense moisturizer for in-salon use that has anti-aging and anti-frizz benefits, and features sustainable ingredients. It’s formulated with Myrica fruit wax, found in the Elchim Wooden Paddle Brush features Andean Mountains, which is nearly 200 round hand-crafted hornbeam resistant to extreme temperatures, pins that gently massage the scalp and giving the product protective promote blood circulation. It also detangles qualities. trussprofessional.com strands, wet or dry, with less stress and no breakage or static. elchim.com

Aquage SeaExtend Silkening Power Infusion is a 60-second, rinse-out treatment designed to repair color-treated hair. The formula includes organic seaweeds and algae, but no sulfates, sodium chloride or parabens. aquage.com PHOTOGRAPHY: COURTESY; WRITING: KRISTEN HEINZINGER HEINZINGER KRISTEN WRITING: COURTESY; PHOTOGRAPHY:

July 2018 americansalon.com 57 It’s our Turn

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CAITLYN DRAPER Young Americans CAITLYN DRAPER

efore Caitlyn Draper found her true calling, she had SHOW TALK a successful career in construction and property management. Needless to say it was a bold move B when she enrolled in beauty school, where she uncovered her talents as an updo stylist and fell in love with bridal looks. This month, as she prepares to graduate, she has her sights set on what’s ahead.—Kristen Heinzinger AHA MOMENT After six years in commercial construction and property management, I decided to pursue my passion: hairstyling. My favorite toys growing up were my giant Barbie head and my Fisher-Price toy hairdryer. I was destined to be in the beauty industry; it just took time to make it happen. TRAINING DAYS I worked as a hair prepper for a bridal company and immediately fell in love with updos. I enrolled at the Avenue Five Institute in Austin, TX in August 2017 and graduate in July. CLAIM TO FAME I’m best known for updos. I taught an Intro to Updo Styling class at my school, and my work has been featured on Style Me Pretty, Love Wins USA and latest-hairstyles.com. SOCIAL BUTTERFLY You can follow me on Instagram @beautybycaitlynd. WORDS TO LIVE BY “If I asked you to name all of the things you love, how long would it take you to name yourself?” Strong self-love will positively affect every part of your life. SECRET WEAPONS Avenue Five Institute, Austin, TX I’d be lost without Kenra Dry Texture Spray and Volumizing Dry Shampoo. And I love the Wella and Pulp Riot lines. MY MENTORS My mom—she filled the mom role, but also the dad and best friend role. And, my instructors. I hope they don’t think they will be able to get rid of me once I graduate! BRIGHT FUTURE I want to continue freelancing and focus on building my VIP client base. I also want to offer updo education at salons and schools to get stylists excited about hairstyling, and start a YouTube channel to inspire and educate women on how to embrace their beauty. I’m remaining open to all opportunities that come my way!

July 2018 americansalon.com 59 Seeing the Future The 20/20 collection from John Paul Mitchell Systems is a group of looks that are fashion-forward yet practical, celebrating 20 years of haircolor.

After two decades of success with professional haircolor, the John Paul Mitchell Systems artistic team set out to create a collection that tells a story of where the company has been and where it is going. With Paul Mitchell The Color XG, The Demi and POP XG haircolor, the team created vibrant reds and coppers, soft, muted pastels and creative color- blended looks. “Haircolor is in its glory right now,” says Colin Caruso, JPMS artistic director for professional haircolor. “In our 20/20 collection, we tried to look ahead and create color palettes that utilized natural shades alongside unnatural tones. The balance and blend give the guest the excitement of being unique without the stigma of being identified solely from one’s haircolor. We created four on-trend, salon-friendly looks—from balayage to block color— using real techniques that can generate more revenue for the stylist behind the chair. We offer the formulas, but it really sparks creativity for stylists to create.”

Photographer BENJO ARWAS Editor NICOLE ALTAVILLA

60 americansalon.com July 2018 OPPOSITE PAGE: Like a solar flare, this look embodies intensity with flashes of bright copper and rich red, inspiring a passion for short shapes and brilliant color. The look was achieved by sectioning hair with tape, then clipping and cutting on the tape. MAKEUP: IRIS MOREAU; FASHION STYLING: NIKKO KEFALAS NIKKO STYLING: FASHION MOREAU; IRIS MAKEUP:

July 2018 americansalon.com 61 62 americansalon.com July 2018 “In our 20/20 collection, we tried to look ahead and create color palettes that utilized natural shades alongside unnatural tones.” —COLIN CARUSO, Jewel tones intensify JPMS ARTISTIC DIRECTOR, this statement-making head of curls in PROFESSIONAL HAIRCOLOR amethyst. Utilizing an array of soft violet hues, the artistic team designed the shades to harmonize with the model’s natural hair texture. July 2018 americansalon.com 63 Using a balayage technique to infuse depth and ribbons of light into the hair, Aurora introduces a muted take on pastel tones. Inspired by the natural phenomenon of the Northern Lights, this look is a beautiful balance of restraint and impact. 64 americansalon.com July 2018 July 2018 americansalon.com 65 bathing Stacey Whittaker’s latest collection makes a splash with bold eyes and beauties high-impact lips. Retro meets modern in this exquisite collection from makeup artist Stacey Whittaker seen exclusively on these pages. “The idea for the shoot originated after seeing a resurgence in vintage on many runways,” says Whittaker, who was recently named Best Makeup Artist in Scotland at the Fife Retail Business Awards. Whittaker let her creativity flow, employing retro bathing caps to cover the hair as well as explosive, bright pops of color to enhance and play up facial features. “My use of colors, which may traditionally clash, really conveys a sense of freedom and demonstrates that the conventional boundaries can be blurred to create a new version of beautiful,” she says.

Photographer JARROD PHOTOGRAPHY Editor KELLEY DONAHUE 66 americansalon.com July 2018 THIS PAGE: After applying dark khaki and gray tones to the eyelids, fanning them out to create a grunge effect, Stacey Whittaker dragged a red kohl liner along the lower lash line to cover the bottom lashes.

OPPOSITE PAGE: Whittaker used plum shades on the lids and underneath the eyes, creating a clean finish at the outer corners. She then applied pink liner to the lash lines and waterlines to tie the look together. FASHION STYLING: STACEY WHITTAKER; MODELS: COLOURS AGENCY COLOURS MODELS: WHITTAKER; STACEY STYLING: FASHION

July 2018 americansalon.com 67 To create a seamless look, Whittaker packed purple shadow onto the lids before buffing out the edges. Pink liquid liner along the lash lines gives the perfect finishing touch.

68 americansalon.com July 2018 Whittaker applied cobalt blue liner to the waterlines before blending it out with a blue shadow to diffuse the color along the lower lash lines.

July 2018 americansalon.com 69 Once Whittaker painted jade green shadow across the lids for a dense effect, she lined the eyes in lime green to soften the look and play up the eyes.

70 americansalon.com July 2018 Whittaker first created a vibrant red lip, then picked up the blue undertones with shadow on the eyes. After smudging blue kohl liner along the lower lash lines, she swept reddish brown shadow across the lids, blending it toward the brow bones.

July 2018 americansalon.com 71 BaBylissPro and Barberology elevate a barbering classic.

The fade, a foundation of barbering, has been revamped, thanks to innovative tools that enable barbers, and therefore clients, to express themselves stylistically. “The fade is just one of those things—it’s not like an A-line bob. Each one is going to be so different, and you have a lot of room for personal expression,” says Luis Alvarez, VP of marketing, creative and education of the ConairPRO division, acclaimed hairstylist, and the photographer behind this collection. That’s precisely what Barberology team members Dayna Gamba (@dgcuts) and Andy Mendoza (@andyauthentic) set out to show when creating looks that range from avant-garde to classic—proof that the fade is a style that simply won’t fade away.

Photographer LUIS ALVAREZ Editor KRISTEN HEINZINGER

72 americansalon.com July 2018 THIS PAGE: First, Andy Mendoza used the BaBylissPro ROSEFX Metal Lithium Clipper to create graduation, leaving hair fairly short on top. Next, he etched a design into the hair using the side of the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Trimmer for a hair tattoo effect. OPPOSITE PAGE: This fade is ideal for the guy who is more conservative when it comes to his haircut, but more edgy with styling, Luis Alvarez says. First, Dayna Gamba trimmed along the ear and nape with the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Clipper at zero gap. She graduated the length instantly as she moved up the head, and used the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Trimmer and the Cord/Cordless Double Foil Shaver to clean the perimeter. HAIRSTYLING: NICOLE FOWLER FOR AQUAGE; MEN’S GROOMING: WANDA ALVAREZ FOR SATIN SMOOTH; FASHION STYLING LEAH SNOW

July 2018 americansalon.com 73 This high-and-tight fade is an edgier version of the classic cut. Gamba used the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Clipper at zero gap to the top curve of the head, then she dialed up for length on top. She cleaned the sides with the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Trimmer and Cord/Cordless Metal Double Foil Shaver, then point-cut hair on top using 8” Barber Shears and 7” Thinning Shears to add disconnection at the ends.

“The fade is just one of those things… Each one is going to be so different.” —LUIS ALVAREZ, BABYLISSPRO CREATIVE DIRECTOR

74 americansalon.com July 2018 A high-fade is the perfect canvas for a design to be carved within the transition, Alvarez says. Mendoza used the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Clipper to create graduation, and with the Cord/ Cordless Metal Double Foil Shaver and the edge of the ROSEFX Metal Lithium Trimmer, he etched the design. Pro-tip: Cut with ⅛ or ¼ of the blade to freehand the design. PHOTOGRAPHY:

July 2018 americansalon.com 75 archive THE GENIUS OF KENNETH The late, legendary hairdresser Kenneth Battelle was the mastermind behind some of the most recognizable coifs of the 1950s and ’60s, tending to the tresses of Marilyn Monroe, Judy Garland, Lucille Ball and Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis, to name a few. In our 120th anniversary issue, Battelle recounted how the then Mrs. Kennedy—before she was the First Lady—became his client when her usual hairdresser at Helena Rubinstein’s NYC salon was out sick. Battelle gave her that signature bouffant, and, as they say, the rest was history.—Kristen Heinzinger PHOTOGRAPHY: GETTY IMAGES (JACQUELINE KENNEDY ONASSIS) The January 1968 issue of The American Hairdresser spotlighted Kenneth Battelle in the feature “The Genius of Kenneth”; often referred to as the first celebrity hairdresser, Battelle created Jacqueline Kennedy Onassis’ bouffant.

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