Hair Removal: a Summary of Techniques with a Particular Emphasis on the Importance and Versatility of Electrolysis
AESTHETIC FOCUS Hair removal: a summary of techniques with a particular emphasis on the importance and versatility of electrolysis
BY ANGELA WHEAT AND MOYRA RADBOURNE
Background and causes of excess hair growth [2]. Such excessive excess or unwanted hair hair growth often requires permanent “Electrolysis has The management of unwanted body and treatment intervention via electrolysis, the power to radically facial hair has been a constant challenge which will be explored later in the article. for the human species since the dawn Before exploring the different methods improve an individual’s of human culture in the Neolithic era. of treating unwanted hair, the cause of Of note this was the New Stone age the hair growth should be determined physical and emotional which began around 10,000 BC in the if possible, by means of a detailed client wellbeing.” Middle East and was characterised by consultation. Practitioners should create a move towards domestication and the a personalised client case history, taking fashioning of tools from stone. Whilst into account various lifestyle and medical methods and cultural preferences issues, in order to establish the most have changed throughout the course likely cause of growth and therefore the of history, the demand for body hair most effective method of treatment, to removal has never been so high with either control or permanently remove around 85% of females in the UK having the hair, depending on the client’s some form of hair removal treatment [1]. preference [3]. There are various causes of unwanted There are a wide variety of hair hair. The majority fall into the category removal and reduction techniques, of normal systemic causes which are suitable for different types of growth, and triggered by the onset of puberty, different client budgets. Arguably, the pregnancy or menopause and other most widely used are the non-permanent normal hormonal activity. Psychiatric methods. disorders such as anorexia nervosa can lead to either thinning and brittle hair, Non-permanent methods of or to hypertrichosis (excess body hair). hair removal Emotional disorders and long-term stress Waxing / sugaring are also significant causes. Arguably the best temporary method of Another common cause is topical hair removal, this procedure is carried stimulation; the removal of vellus or out with either hot or warm wax, with virgin hair growth, for example, by paper strips used to remove wax and hair plucking. This can stimulate a deeper and growth from the skin (Figure 1). richer blood supply to the hair follicle Key advantages to the method are causing hair growth to become coarse that large areas (for example, full legs and terminal in nature, which requires and backs) can be treated. Hairs are more management over time. Prescribed removed from their roots resulting in Figure 1: Waxing is one of the most popular and medicines for some medical conditions the new growth appearing four to six best forms of non-permanent hair removal. may also contribute to excessive hair weeks after the treatment and the hairs growth, e.g. steroids, or combination are characteristically soft with pointed hormone replacement therapy (HRT), ends. All areas of the face and body can hairs in the same fashion as waxing and which may contain a small amount of be treated, including the bikini line and therefore demonstrates comparable testosterone. underarm area. Similarly, sugaring is an results [4]. A number of medical conditions, ancient Middle Eastern practice using such as polycystic ovarian syndrome, a paste either applied in a ball or strip Light-based hair removal systems Cushing’s syndrome, and adrenal made from natural ingredients, such as Laser and intense pulse light (IPL) both tumours etc. can result in extremes of sugar, water and lemon juice. It removes target the melanin within the hair follicle,
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diffusing heat within the surrounding tissues. There are a variety of different types of lasers, e.g. Alexandrite, Ruby and Diode. Lasers usually work on either visible or infrared light spectrums, depending on the type. In contrast, IPL uses a variety of different wavelengths to deliver heat energy at varying depths within the skin. Whilst both laser and IPL will substantially reduce hair growth, it is not permanent removal, and is technically termed as ‘hair reduction’ [5]. As the main focus of these methods is the melanin pigment within the tissues, this system is generally not effective on fair hair on white skin, black hair on black skin or on red hair. This is due to its inability to differentiate between the skin pigment cells and the hair pigment cells. Therefore, it is ideal for treating dark hair on fair skin but regular top up treatments will still be required to keep hair growth reduced.
Depilatory creams / mousses / pastes These products use a chemical ingredient, commonly calcium thioglycollate or calcium hydroxide [1] which breaks down the keratin and dissolves it when removed Figure 2: Hair removal by electrolysis. with water or a spatula. Chemical action may lead to skin sensitivity and irritation. Regrowth occurs very quickly, ranging as polycystic ovarian syndrome, pilonidal achieved by heat (with thermolysis) or a from a few days to several weeks. sinus conditions, thyroid conditions chemical reaction (with galvanic) or both and gender dysphoria, to name a few. In blended together (with blend). Threading these instances, electrolysis should be The treatment can be adapted to suit An ancient Asian method of removing considered (Figure 2). Its unique ability each client’s skin, hair and pain threshold. facial hair, using a cotton thread to to destroy the hair germ cells results in During a course of treatments there will remove hair from the follicle by the root. permanent eradication of all hair growth, be a constant, gradual decrease in the This is a skilled technique [4] which can regardless of skin and hair type or colour. growth of the hair until it has all been encourage fine vellus hair to become It can be carried out anywhere on the permanently removed, and there are no coarser in time, and therefore requires face and body and must be performed hairs left, as follicle destruction has been regular treatment. by a highly skilled and experienced achieved. The number of treatments practitioner. required will vary from person to person Hair growth retardant cream (Vaniqua®) There are three main methods of and will be discussed at the consultation. This is a prescription drug in the form of electrolysis: The first sign that electrolysis treatment a cream. It has been found to act as a hair • Galvanic is working is that the hair growth becomes retardant, which reduces, rather than • Thermolysis (also called diathermy softer, finer and lighter in colour. There is stops growth [6]. By using this cream post or radio frequency (RF) diathermy an immediate aesthetic improvement for waxing or after other methods where in some countries) the client, which continues gradually over the hair is removed from the root, it has • Blend method. the course of treatment. in some cases slowed down hair growth. Electrolysis involves the insertion of a very The impact of electrolysis on certain However, upon cessation of treatment fine, disposable, sterile probe (the same medical conditions should not be hair will re-establish in approximately diameter as the hair) into the hair follicle, underestimated. Below are three case eight weeks. which is a natural opening in the skin. A studies of incidences where electrolysis tiny amount of energy is then skillfully techniques have made a significant Permanent hair removal discharged into the hair follicle. The improvement to the physiological and Whilst non-permanent hair removal is selection of energy is based on the skin and psychological wellbeing of the client. suitable for a large proportion of the hair type presented; the amount of energy population, in some cases there is a varies from 0.1 of a second to five seconds Case study 1 genuine medical or psychological need for depending on the method of electrolysis A male patient with a pilonidal sinus a permanent solution to unwanted hair used. The only sensation felt by the client condition was referred via a consultant growth. This is especially true in cases of is heat passing down the probe to the base surgeon from the local hospital (Figure those suffering medical conditions, such of the follicle. The follicle destruction is 3). This is an ingression of exogenous
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hairs, causing a foreign body reaction in the anus area which requires treatment in order to avoid surgery. In this case, there is only one treatment option available other than surgery. Electrolysis will permanently destroy the hair germ cells, thus preventing the hairs from re-growing and causing further pilonidal sinuses. By carrying out electrolysis, in some cases the need for surgery is eliminated, saving the patient from the physical and emotional Figure 3: Pilonidal sinus. trauma of the operation, as well as the unsightly scarring and costly recovery first one following treatment. She used to References period that would have resulted. wear scarves and chunky jewellery to hide 1. Wheat A. The Complete Guide to Electro Epilation. London, UK; Hodder & Stoughton; 2002. her condition and is now free of these for 2. Cartwright E, Morris G, Sullivan M. Electro Epilation: A Case study 2 the first time in her adult life, reporting a practical Approach for NVQ Level 3. Avon, UK; The Bath A transgender male to female client major increase in emotional wellbeing. Press; 1995:72-5. 3. British Institute Association of Electrolysis. NHS required genital hair removal prior to Information Pack. Middlesex, UK; BIAE; 2014. surgery. Surgeons performing gender Summary 4. Simms J. A practical guide to beauty therapy for NVQ reassignment surgery generally advocate In conclusion, whilst for many people Level 2. Cheltenham, UK; Nelson Thornes; 1998:343. 5. Brown J, Morris G. Encyclopedia of Hair Removal. electrolysis, as it is a permanent solution temporary methods of hair removal are London, UK; Thomson Learning; 2006:294-305. to unwanted hair growth, which can adequate, others need more help to keep 6. Owen E. PCOS and how it affects hair growth.Lecture help the patient enormously in terms excessive hair growth at bay. Finding given at MIC Hotel and Conference Centre, Euston Street, London; 2009. of psychological wellbeing prior to, and a permanent and effective solution to after the surgery. One key benefit is that unwanted hair can be life changing. Far the procedure reduces the chance of hair from being simply a beauty treatment of Angela Wheat, balls growing inside the newly formed purely cosmetic value, the case studies Chair of the British Institute vaginal cavity as all the hair germ cells are above demonstrate that electrolysis and Association of Electrolysis, and member of the International destroyed. has the power to radically improve an Federation of Health and Beauty individual’s physical and emotional Therapists and the National Case study 3 wellbeing. An additional benefit is the Advisory board for Beauty A client in her 30s with polycystic ovaries cost-effective outcome for certain cases, Therapy. presented to a clinic with a full beard, hair such as some patients with pilonidal [email protected] across her chest and stomach, and very sinus, by eliminating the need for costly Declaration of competing interests: None declared. dense hair growth. She had been shaving surgery and postoperative care. To quote and plucking all areas on a regular basis Angela Wheat, Chair of the BIAE, “No Moyra Radbourne, for some time. The client was hugely electrolysis quite literally means no hope Previous Chair of the British psychologically impacted by the condition, for thousands of people who cannot find a Association of Electrolysis and current member of the British and sought out electrolysis as a last suitable alternative.” Institute and Association of resort. She had successful removal of her Electrolysis. beard, moustache, breast and stomach Recommended reading hair growth. In addition, her eyebrows The BIAE website www.electrolysis.co.uk has further Declaration of competing interests: None declared. were groomed and shaped to have a more information; members’ names and addresses are also feminine appearance. She had never worn published, so members of the public can access details and find a practitioner in their area. a low cut t-shirt or dress, and bought her
BIAE The aim of CPD is to improve the quality of each practitioner’s current and future Electrolysis is a highly skilled technique work, whilst ensuring that members and the British Institute and Association retain the capacity to practise electrolysis of Electrolysis (BIAE) is the only British safely, effectively and legally. In addition, professional body representing it helps to keep members in touch with electrolysists. current practice techniques, sterilisation All BIAE members have to take additional methods and hygiene procedures, as well practical and theoretical examinations, to as changes in technology and legislation ensure the highest professional standards. against members. BIAE members are that occur between the time of initial These are above the National Occupational required to take annual continuous qualification and retirement. The BIAE is at Standard (NVQ level 3). Members also professional development (CPD) achieving the forefront of maintaining the highest abide by a code of ethics, which is a guide a minimum of 10 points each year, which is standards of excellence in this fast paced to excellence in professional conduct checked by the BIAE board before any CPD industry. and practice. Breaches of this lead to certificates are issued and is listed on the disciplinary procedures by the organisation BIAE national register of members.
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