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DORISEA Working Paper 20 Competence Network DORISEA – Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia 1 DORISEA WORKING PAPER ISSUE 20, 2015, ISSN: 2196-6893 ANDREA LAUSER TRAVELING TO YÊN Tử (NORTH VIETNAM) RELIDIOUS RESURGENCE, CULTURAL NATIONALISM AND TOURISTIC HERITAGE IN THE SHAPING OF A PILGRIMAGE LANDSCAPE 20 DORISEA Working Paper, ISSUE 20, 2015, ISSN: 2196-6893 DORISEA WORKING PAPER SERIES EDITORS Peter J. Bräunlein Michael Dickhardt Andrea Lauser BmBf Competence Network “Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia” (DORISEA) The research network “Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia” (DORISEA) is funded by the German Federal Ministry for Education and Research (BMBF) and coordinated by the Department of Social and Cultural Anthropology at the Georg-August-University of Göttingen. Scholars from the Universities of Göttingen, Hamburg, Münster, Heidelberg and Berlin (Humboldt University) are involved in several projects that investigate the relationship between religion and modernity in Southeast Asia. How to cite this paper: Andrea Lauser (2015): Traveling to Yên T (North Vietnam). Religious Resurgence, Cultural Nationalism and Touristic Heritage in the Shaping of a Pilgrimage Landscape. In: DORISEA Working Paper Series, ửNo. 20. Research Network DORISEA Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia Project Ofice Georg-August-University Göttingen Institut für Ethnologie Berliner Str. 28 FUNDED BY D - 37073 Göttingen Germany +49 (0)551 39 20153 [email protected] www.dorisea.net Competence Network DORISEA – Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia 3 ANDREA LAUSER TRAVELING TO YÊN Tử (NORTH VIETNAM). RELIGIOUS RESURGENCE, CULTURAL NATIONALISM AND TOURISTIC HERITAGE IN THE SHAPING OF A PILGRIMAGE LANDSCAPE ABSTRACT Yên Tử, a well-known Sacred Mountain in northeastern Vietnam, is surrounded by primeval forest with plentiful and diverse flora. The attribution of sacred or mystical qualities to Yên Tử has a long tradition, with the mountain providing a symbol of cosmic order in Vietnamese Taoism, Confucianism, and Buddhism. Since Vietnams government launched its open-door policy in the late s, the pilgrimage centre has been given official recognition by the Ministry of Culture as a national cultural heritage site. Recently, through the construction of a cable-car system carrying pilgrims—and tourists—to the top, Yên Tử has also become one of the must do things for local and global pilgrim-tourists, attracting over one million visitors since . Looking at the pilgrimage site as a multidimensional arena, this paper focuses on the negotiation of agendas between wealth, merit-making, touristification and Allpolitical photos certification by Andrea Lauser, of national 2011, culture unless andotherwise heritage stated. in contemporary Vietnam and beyond. INTRODUCTION cal approach to the challenges in the new age of glo- balization Urry , (yndman-Rizik . Yet, Pilgrimage can be many—even contradictory— as Soja reminds us, in a globalised world of things at once: a personal journey of healing and mobility and decentering, centres nevertheless re- entertainment, a place and space of communitas main significant. As some comeand apart or fade away, and identity, but also of conflict and division, a cele- others emerge or are reinvented. Since pilgrimage bration of roots or homecoming and an experience is both a moving practice a localised resource of liminality and even a political movement and a of meaning, pilgrimage studies re-focusing on the memorial Eade & Sallnow , Morinis , concept of place recognizes not only that pilgrims Bauman , Coleman & Eade , Badone & but also various placemaking agencies give rise Roseman , Dallen & Olsen , Swatos . to and produce pilgrimages Reader , Eade & Many recent studies of pilgrimage have emphasized Katić . movement and motion at the expense of centre or Taking the example of the Yên Tử pilgrimage place. )n theorizing pilgrimage and spiritual jour- destination in North Vietnam, ) will tell a multilay- neys, these studies focus on identifying different ered story of a landscape that is shaped, formed, forms of embodied, imagined and metaphorical steered and controlled by diverse agencies, each motions Coleman & Eade . This shift away of which is a composite of different expressions. from the classical anthropological focus on ritual )n this sense, the complex story of the pilgrimage and communitas Turner & Turner towards landscape of Yên Tử is to be understood as a cul- movement is situated within the mobilities turn in tural process, characterized by the interaction and scholarly debates, which has emergedDORISEA asWorking a theoreti- Paper, ISSUE 20,mutual 2015, ISSN: constitution 2196-6893 of people and their historically Competence Network DORISEA – Dynamics of Religion in Southeast Asia 4 politically constructed environment, as well as a site of power reference a past of two heroic king dynasties, struggles and the interplay of actuality and poten- under which Chinesereligiously invasions were tiality. repelled and a so-called golden era of Vietnam- ) propose considering Yên Tử as a spatial com- • ese Buddhism was introduced. plex shaped by economic interests, state politics, re- ligious ambitions, and individual desires. Thus, the The concrete materiality of pagodas, stu- forces of Vietnamese history, culture and religion pas, unique relics and Buddha statues are con- have actuated the sedimentation of the Yên Tử land- sidered to be highly charged with sacralized scape. The geographical as well as the historical and power. Buddhist pilgrims are therefore eager to socio-political morphology of the Yên Tử complex perform devotional practices in order to accu- are of equal analytic importance. The diverse layers • mulate merit and improve their karma. can• be described as follows: Mount Yên Tử is thus considered to be one Yên Tử is a mountainous region in the north- pilgrim destination among manyChùa (ương must do desti- eastern part of Vietnam on the border with Chi- nations in the Vietnamese pilgrimage(ùng Vương landscape, na, surrounded by primeval forest with plentiful such as the Perfume Pagoda and • and diverse flora and fauna. the temples of the (ung kings , to name only two of the most famous sites that are The landscape is surrounded by black coal visited annually by millions of local, national and stockpiles and rugged, torn-open mountainsides • by now transnational Vietnamese travellers. which encroach into the forest landscape, pay- ing witness to intense coalmining. Dating from TheseDu lịch sites areVề Cội Nguồn part of a booming tourism the beginning of French colonial domination market known as Travelling to the Nations and intensifying during the period of socialist Roots• — . industrialization, the northeastern region of Vi- etnam remains the most important and largest Yên Tử is but one of many sites of religious • coalmining area in the country. pilgrimage and/or patriotic commemoration in Vietnam which have grown into tourist attrac- Located on the adjacent west coast is the in- tions where commodified refashioning is part dustrial port city of (aiphong, while on the east of the business. Rigid distinctions between se- coast, (a Long Bay has been classified as a UN- rious and pious pilgrims always on a journey ESCO World (eritage site since . With mil- to a sacred site, and playful and curious tour- lions of annual visitors, (a Long Bay—an area of ists only on a trip to places of secular pleasure around km and more than islands— have become blurred. As both a national site of is one of Vietnams, and indeed Southeast Asias, cultural heritage and a touristic về site quê of economic most popular tourist attractions. (owever, development, Yên Tửvề nguồn has also developed into a the environmental destruction caused both by destination of a going home and re- coalmining as well as tourism threatens its re- • turning to the roots movement. moval from the UNESCO World (eritage List. )n response to this, several specific projects and While pilgrims may act like tourists, tourists plans dealing with environmental protection, and overseas Vietnamese travelling home in tourism development and conservation man- particular, may become pilgrim-tourist hybrids • agement have been launched. looking for their roots. Being on the routes is, in this case, also understood as searching for Moving inland from (a Long Bay to nearby the roots. Văn (óa Việt Du Yên Tử mountain, our perspective is directed Lịch Về Cội Nguồn towards a landscape whose temples and stupas Under the labels Vietnamese Culture and travelling to the roots there are many tour companies which run tours for Vietnamese pilgrim-tour- This has also been reflected in numerous studies within an ists, with the tour guides speakingonly in Vietnamese. emerging subfield, anthropology of pilgrimage, where sa- See among numerous others: https://sites.google.com/ cred space and other phenomena are to be found at the in- site/dulichintours/du-lich-hanh-huong/tour-du-lich-hanh- tersection of environment, religious, social, cultural, political, huong-ve-coi-nguon---yen-tu---cua-ong; https://sites.goog- and economic interests e.g. Eade & Sallnow , Coleman le.com/site/dulichnhatranggiare/du-lich-hanh-huong/du- & Eade , Badone & Roseman , Dallen & Olsen , lich-hanh-huong-ve-lai-coi-nguon-yen-tu---cua-ong; http:// Swatos , Margy , Eade, John & Mario Katić , diendan.dulichhue.com.vn/threads/hanh-trinh-ve-voi-yen- Reader . tu-coi-nguon-tam-linh./; http://www.vanhoaviet. http://vietnamtourism.gov.vn/english/index.php/ biz.vn/; http://quehuongonline.vn/VietNam/(ome/ see
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