South East Asia on a Shoestring
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Southeast Asia on a shoestring Vietnam (Chapter) Edition 16th Edition, July 2012 Pages 102 Page Range 807-908 PDF Coverage includes: Understand Vietnam, History, Culture & People, Politics & Government, Food & Drink, Environment & Wildlife, Survival Guide, Directory A-Z, Getting There & Away, Getting Around, Hanoi, Perfume Pagoda, Handicraft Villages, Ninh Binh, Cuc Phuong National Park, Northern Vietnam, Halong Bay, Halong City, Cat Ba Island, Haiphong, Ba Be National Park, Mai Chau, Lao Cai, Bac Ha, Sapa, Dien Bien Phu, Central Vietnam, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, South-Central Coast and Nha Trang. Useful Links: Having trouble viewing your file? Head to Lonely Planet Troubleshooting. Need more assistance? Head to the Help and Support page. Want to find more chapters? Head back to the Lonely Planet Shop. Want to hear fellow travellers’ tips and experiences? Lonely Planet’s Thorntree Community is waiting for you! © Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd. To make it easier for you to use, access to this chapter is not digitally restricted. In return, we think it’s fair to ask you to use it for personal, non-commercial purposes only. In other words, please don’t upload this chapter to a peer-to-peer site, mass email it to everyone you know, or resell it. See the terms and conditions on our site for a longer way of saying the above - ‘Do the right thing with our content. ©Lonely Planet Publications Pty Ltd Vietnam Why Go? Hanoi ............................809 One of the most intoxicating destinations on planet earth, Halong Bay ...................828 Vietnam is a kaleidoscope of vivid colours and subtle Sapa ..............................838 shades, exotic sights and curious sounds, grand architecture Hue ...............................842 and deeply moving war sites. The nation is a budget travel- Hoi An ...........................853 ler’s dream, with inexpensive transport, outstanding street food, good-value accommodation and bia hoi – perhaps the Nha Trang .....................859 world’s cheapest beer. Mui Ne ..........................865 Nature has gifted Vietnam with soaring mountains in Dalat .............................868 the north, emerald-green rice paddies in the Mekong Delta Ho Chi Minh City .......... 872 and a sensational, curvaceous coastline of ravishing sandy Mekong Delta ...............884 beaches. Travelling here you’ll witness children riding buf- Understand falo, see the impossibly intricate textiles of hill-tribe commu- Vietnam ........................892 nities and hear the buzz of a million motorbikes. Survival Guide ..............899 This is a dynamic nation on the move, where life is lived at pace. Prepare yourself for the ride of your life. Best Regional Specialities W h e n t o G o » White rose (p 856 ) Hanoi » Pho (p 819 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Catfish spring rolls (p 817 ) 40/104 32/800 » Banh xeo (p 877 ) 30/86 24/600 Best Places 20/68 16/400 for Cultural 10/50 8/200 Connections 0/32 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM » Hiking the highlands (p 838 ) » Floating lodges (p 886 ) Dec–Mar Expect Apr Danang’s Jul–Aug Perfect » Thai stilt-houses (p 836 ) cool weather river front beach-time north of Hue as explodes with on the central » Cooking courses (p 874 ) the winter mon- colour and noise coastline, with soon brings cloud, during the city’s balmy sea and air mist and drizzle. fireworks festival. temperatures. 808 AT A GLANCE Don’t Miss » Currency Dong Northern Vietnam comprises one of the world’s most im- » Language pressive limestone landmasses, a vast swath of spectacular Vietnamese scenery that has been eroded into ethereal rock formations. The myriad pinnacle-like islands of Halong Bay are one su- » Money ATMs are perb example of this spectacular karst scenery, or head to widespread neighbouring Lan Ha Bay for less crowds. » Visas Mostly Near Ninh Binh, the jagged limestone mountains of Tam required in advance Coc are a surreal sight, while further south the extraordi- » Mobile phones Pre- nary Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is home to three pay SIM cards avail- gargantuan cave systems (including the world’s largest cave) able for a few dollars set in tropical forest studded with towering peaks. ITINERARIES Fast Facts » Area 329,566 sq km One Week » Capital Hanoi Begin in Hanoi, immerse yourself in Old Quarter life and tour the capital’s sights for a couple of days. Then it’s a » Country code %84 day-trip to Halong Bay to lap up the surreal karst scen- » Emergency Police %113 ery. Move down to Hue to explore the imperial citadel and then shift to Hoi An for two days of foodie treats, E x c h a n g e R a t e s old world ambience and beach time. Finish off with a night in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Australia A$1 21,650d Two Weeks Canada C$1 20,850d Acclimatise in the capital, see the sights and experience Euro zone €1 27,500d Hanoi’s unique streetlife. Tour incomparable Halong Japan ¥100 25,150d Bay, then take in the extraordinary caves and karsts of New NZ$1 16,900d Phong Nha. Hue, city of pagodas and tombs, beckons Zealand next. Then push on to charming Hoi An, where you can rest up. Party in Nha Trang then continue south to idyllic UK £1 33,600d Mui Ne Beach. Round things off Saigon-style in Viet- US US$1 32,950d nam’ s liveliest metropolis, Ho Chi Minh City. Set Your Budget Essential Outdoor Activities » Budget room US$8–15 » Cat Ba region (p 831 ) Sail through the idyllic islands of » Filling meal US$1.50–4 Lan Ha Bay, kayak through lagoons, climb karst walls, and » Beer in bar from US$0.75 hike or bike trails inside Cat Ba National Park, fast becoming » Short taxi ride US$2 one of Vietnam’s adventure-sports epicentres. » Trekking the trails of North Vietnam (p 838 ) Experi- Entering the ence hill-tribe life, learn about highland culture and support Country minority people financially (and a get workout thrown in). » Mui Ne Beach (p 865 ) Feel the rush of the wind at Viet- » Ho Chi Minh City Airport nam’s premier kitesurfing hot-spot and, if conditions allow, Taxi to centre 100,000d, 30 the thrill of riding some of Vietnam’s best waves. minutes; bus (Route 152) 4000d, every 15 minutes, 6am-6pm, 40 minutes. » Hanoi Airport Taxi to centre US$14.50, one hour; Vietnam Airlines minibus US$3, every 30 minutes. 809 HANOI out for the embalmed remains of a gigantic tortoise. Keep your eyes peeled for Cu Rua % 04 / POP 6.4 MILLION (Great Grandfather), a 200kg turtle who still The grand old dame of the Orient, Hanoi is inhabits the lake. This revered reptile was the most graceful, atmospheric and captivat- fi shed out of the lake in April 2011 for medi- ing capital city in the region. Here exotic old cal treatment (precipitated by pollution) Asia blends seamlessly with the dynamic before being returned to his watery domain. VIETNAM face of the continent, an architectural mas- terpiece evolving in harmony with its his- Bach Ma Temple TEMPLE tory, rather than bulldozing through it. (Map p814 ; cnr P Hang Buom & P Hang Giay; h8- A mass of motorbikes swarms through the 11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm) One of the oldest tem- tangled web of streets that is the Old Quarter, ples in Hanoi, Bach Ma was originally built HANOI a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years by King Ly Thai To in the 11th century (to and still the best place to check the pulse of honour a white horse that guided him to this resurgent city. Hanoi has it all: the an- this site, where he chose to construct his cient history, a colonial legacy and a modern city walls). Pass through the wonderful old outlook. There is no better place to untangle wooden doors of the pagoda to see a statue the paradox that is contemporary Vietnam. of the legendary white horse, as well as a beautiful red-lacquered funeral palanquin. 1Sights St Joseph Cathedral CHURCH OLD QUARTER & AROUND h Step- This is the Asia we dreamed of from afar. (Map p816; P Nha Tho; 5-7am & 5-7pm) ping inside Hanoi’s cathedral is like being Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bub- transported back to medieval Europe. This bling with commerce, buzzing with mo- neo-Gothic cathedral (inaugurated in 1886) torbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old is noteworthy for its square belltowers, Quarter is Hanoi’s historic heart and soul. elaborate altar and stained-glass windows. Hawkers pound the streets bearing sizzling, The main gate is open when Mass is held. At smoking baskets that hide a cheap meal. Pho other times you have to enter the compound (noodle soup) stalls and bia hoi (draught via a side street, at 40 P Nha Chung. During beer) dens hug every corner, resonant with Sunday Mass (usually at 6pm), the congre- the sound of gossip and laughter. Take your gation spills out onto the streets, hymns are time and experience the unique sights, beamed out, and the devout sit on motor- sounds and smells of this chaotic, captivat- bikes listening intently to the sermon. ing warren of lanes – this is Asian streetlife at its purist and most atmospheric. Women’s Museum MUSEUM (Bao Tang Phu Nu; off Map p816 ; www.baotang Hoan Kiem Lake LAKE phunu.org.vn; 36 P Ly Thuong Kiet; admission (Map p814 ) The liquid heart of the Old Quar- h Recently re- ter, Hoan Kiem Lake is a good landmark and 30,000d; 8am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) opened after a long renovation, this excel- a great place to catch the pulse of the city.