South East Asia on a Shoestring

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Southeast Asia on a shoestring Vietnam (Chapter)

Edition 16th Edition, July 2012 Pages 102 Page Range 807-908 PDF

Coverage includes: Understand Vietnam, History, Culture & People, Politics & Government, Food & Drink, Environment & Wildlife, Survival Guide, Directory A-Z, Getting There & Away, Getting Around, Hanoi, Perfume Pagoda, Handicraft Villages, Ninh Binh, Cuc Phuong National Park, Northern Vietnam, Halong Bay, Halong City, Cat Ba Island, Haiphong, Ba Be National Park, Mai Chau, Lao Cai, Bac Ha, Sapa, Dien Bien Phu, Central Vietnam, Hue, Danang, Hoi An, South-Central Coast and Nha Trang.

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Vietnam

Why Go? Hanoi ...... 809 One of the most intoxicating destinations on planet earth, Halong Bay ...... 828 Vietnam is a kaleidoscope of vivid colours and subtle Sapa ...... 838 shades, exotic sights and curious sounds, grand architecture Hue ...... 842 and deeply moving war sites. The nation is a budget travel- Hoi An ...... 853 ler’s dream, with inexpensive transport, outstanding street food, good-value accommodation and bia hoi – perhaps the Nha Trang ...... 859 world’s cheapest beer. Mui Ne ...... 865 Nature has gifted Vietnam with soaring mountains in Dalat ...... 868 the north, emerald-green rice paddies in the Mekong Delta Ho Chi Minh City ...... 872 and a sensational, curvaceous coastline of ravishing sandy Mekong Delta ...... 884 beaches. Travelling here you’ll witness children riding buf- Understand falo, see the impossibly intricate textiles of hill-tribe commu- Vietnam ...... 892 nities and hear the buzz of a million motorbikes. Survival Guide ...... 899 This is a dynamic nation on the move, where life is lived at pace. Prepare yourself for the ride of your life.

Best Regional Specialities W h e n t o G o » White rose (p 856 ) Hanoi » Pho (p 819 ) °C/°F Temp Rainfall inches/mm » Catfish spring rolls (p817 ) 40/104 32/800 » Banh xeo (p877 ) 30/86 24/600 Best Places 20/68 16/400 for Cultural 10/50 8/200

Connections 0/32 0 J FDNOSAJJMAM » Hiking the highlands (p838 ) » Floating lodges (p 886 ) Dec–Mar Expect Apr Danang’s Jul–Aug Perfect » Thai stilt-houses (p 836 ) cool weather riverfront beach-time north of Hue as explodes with on the central » Cooking courses (p 874 ) the winter mon- colour and noise coastline, with soon brings cloud, during the city’s balmy sea and air mist and drizzle. fireworks festival. temperatures. 808

AT A GLANCE Don’t Miss » Currency Dong Northern Vietnam comprises one of the world’s most im- » Language pressive limestone landmasses, a vast swath of spectacular Vietnamese scenery that has been eroded into ethereal rock formations. The myriad pinnacle-like islands of Halong Bay are one su- » Money ATMs are perb example of this spectacular karst scenery, or head to widespread neighbouring Lan Ha Bay for less crowds. » Visas Mostly Near Ninh Binh, the jagged limestone mountains of Tam required in advance Coc are a surreal sight, while further south the extraordi- » Mobile phones Pre- nary Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park is home to three pay SIM cards avail- gargantuan cave systems (including the world’s largest cave) able for a few dollars set in tropical forest studded with towering peaks.

ITINERARIES Fast Facts » Area 329,566 sq km One Week » Capital Hanoi Begin in Hanoi, immerse yourself in Old Quarter life and tour the capital’s sights for a couple of days. Then it’s a » Country code %84 day-trip to Halong Bay to lap up the surreal karst scen- » Emergency Police %113 ery. Move down to Hue to explore the imperial citadel and then shift to Hoi An for two days of foodie treats, E x c h a n g e R a t e s old world ambience and beach time. Finish oﬀ with a night in Ho Chi Minh City (Saigon). Australia A$1 21,650d Two Weeks Canada C$1 20,850d Acclimatise in the capital, see the sights and experience Euro zone€1 27,500d Hanoi’s unique streetlife. Tour incomparable Halong Japan ¥100 25,150d Bay, then take in the extraordinary caves and karsts of New NZ$1 16,900d Phong Nha. Hue, city of pagodas and tombs, beckons Zealand next. Then push on to charming Hoi An, where you can rest up. Party in Nha Trang then continue south to idyllic UK £1 33,600d Mui Ne Beach. Round things oﬀ Saigon-style in Viet- US US$1 32,950d nam’ s liveliest metropolis, Ho Chi Minh City.

Set Your Budget Essential Outdoor Activities » Budget room US$8–15 » Cat Ba region (p 831 ) Sail through the idyllic islands of » Filling meal US$1.50–4 Lan Ha Bay, kayak through lagoons, climb karst walls, and » Beer in bar from US$0.75 hike or bike trails inside Cat Ba National Park, fast becoming » Short taxi ride US$2 one of Vietnam’s adventure-sports epicentres. » Trekking the trails of North Vietnam (p 838 ) Experi- Entering the ence hill-tribe life, learn about highland culture and support Country minority people financially (and a get workout thrown in). » Mui Ne Beach (p 865 ) Feel the rush of the wind at Viet- » Ho Chi Minh City Airport nam’s premier kitesurfing hot-spot and, if conditions allow, Taxi to centre 100,000d, 30 the thrill of riding some of Vietnam’s best waves. minutes; bus (Route 152) 4000d, every 15 minutes, 6am-6pm, 40 minutes. » Hanoi Airport Taxi to centre US$14.50, one hour; Vietnam Airlines minibus US$3, every 30 minutes. 809 HANOI out for the embalmed remains of a gigantic tortoise. Keep your eyes peeled for Cu Rua % 04 / POP 6.4 MILLION (Great Grandfather), a 200kg turtle who still The grand old dame of the Orient, Hanoi is inhabits the lake. This revered reptile was the most graceful, atmospheric and captivat- ﬁ shed out of the lake in April 2011 for medi- ing capital city in the region. Here exotic old cal treatment (precipitated by pollution) Asia blends seamlessly with the dynamic

before being returned to his watery domain. VIETNAM face of the continent, an architectural mas- terpiece evolving in harmony with its his- Bach Ma Temple TEMPLE tory, rather than bulldozing through it. (Map p814 ; cnr P Hang Buom & P Hang Giay; h8- A mass of motorbikes swarms through the 11.30am & 2.30-5.30pm) One of the oldest tem- tangled web of streets that is the Old Quarter, ples in Hanoi, Bach Ma was originally built HANOI a cauldron of commerce for almost 1000 years by King Ly Thai To in the 11th century (to and still the best place to check the pulse of honour a white horse that guided him to this resurgent city. Hanoi has it all: the an- this site, where he chose to construct his cient history, a colonial legacy and a modern city walls). Pass through the wonderful old outlook. There is no better place to untangle wooden doors of the pagoda to see a statue the paradox that is contemporary Vietnam. of the legendary white horse, as well as a beautiful red-lacquered funeral palanquin. 1 Sights St Joseph Cathedral CHURCH OLD QUARTER & AROUND h Step- This is the Asia we dreamed of from afar. (Map p816; P Nha Tho; 5-7am & 5-7pm) ping inside Hanoi’s cathedral is like being Steeped in history, pulsating with life, bub- transported back to medieval Europe. This bling with commerce, buzzing with mo- neo-Gothic cathedral (inaugurated in 1886) torbikes and rich in exotic scents, the Old is noteworthy for its square belltowers, Quarter is Hanoi’s historic heart and soul. elaborate altar and stained-glass windows. Hawkers pound the streets bearing sizzling, The main gate is open when Mass is held. At smoking baskets that hide a cheap meal. Pho other times you have to enter the compound (noodle soup) stalls and bia hoi (draught via a side street, at 40 P Nha Chung. During beer) dens hug every corner, resonant with Sunday Mass (usually at 6pm), the congre- the sound of gossip and laughter. Take your gation spills out onto the streets, hymns are time and experience the unique sights, beamed out, and the devout sit on motor- sounds and smells of this chaotic, captivat- bikes listening intently to the sermon. ing warren of lanes – this is Asian streetlife at its purist and most atmospheric. Women’s Museum MUSEUM (Bao Tang Phu Nu; oﬀ Map p816 ; www.baotang Hoan Kiem Lake LAKE phunu.org.vn; 36 P Ly Thuong Kiet; admission (Map p814 ) The liquid heart of the Old Quar- h Recently re- ter, Hoan Kiem Lake is a good landmark and 30,000d; 8am-4.30pm Tue-Sun) opened after a long renovation, this excel- a great place to catch the pulse of the city. lent museum concentrates on the role of Legend has it that in the mid-15th century, women in Vietnamese society and culture. heaven gave Emperor Le Thai To (Le Loi) a Superbly laid out and labelled in English magical sword that he used to drive the Chi- and French, it’s the memories of the wartime nese out of Vietnam. One day after the war, contributions of individual heroic women while out boating, he came upon a giant that are most poignant. There are regu- golden tortoise; the creature grabbed the lar exhibitions held on topics as diverse as sword and disappeared into the depths of human traﬃ cking and street vendors. the lake. Since that time, the lake has been known as Ho Hoan Kiem (Lake of the Re- Hoa Lo Prison Museum MUSEUM stored Sword) because the tortoise returned (Map p816 ; 1 P Hoa Lo; admission 10,000d; h8am- the sword to its divine owners. 5pm) The museum is all that remains of the notorious Hoa Lo Prison, ironically Ngoc Son Temple TEMPLE nicknamed the ‘Hanoi Hilton’ by US POWs. (Jade Mountain Temple; Map p816 ; admission Exhibits concentrate on the Vietnamese 3000d; h8am-5pm) Founded in the 18th cen- struggle for independence from France. tury, this temple occupies an island in the Other displays focus on American pilots northern part of Hoan Kiem Lake. It’s a med- incarcerated here, including Senator John itative spot to relax, but also worth checking McCain. Mekong River Cuc Dao Tam Tho Can Park Bavet Sa Dec Plong Vinh Phuong National Tha Khaek Nam Xoi NP Viet Tri Trapaeng Ca Mau r Chau Doc

e Ba Vi Gia Rach Hoa Binh Long Cau Treo Pagoda Xuyen Bac Ha Bac Perfume Hekou Savannakhet Red Riv Nam Phao Nam Can Na Meo Son La CAMBODIA Vinh Xuong Nakhon Phanom Sapa Angkor Kaam Samnor Siem Reap Mai Chau Haet Nong Tinh Bien Sap (3143m) Tonlé Phnom Den Ha Tien Fansipan Hon Chong Sam Neua Lao Cai Lao Dien Bien Phu Gulf of

Thailand PHNOM PENH THAILAND Phonsavan River Phu Quoc Island Muong Lay Muong Tay Trang Luang Prabang ng Sihanoukville

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Hoi Con Hue ) (p 867 bia hoi Mui c wildlife- c ), (p 859 ﬁ Halong Bay (p 809 ) and its ) and its 809 (p ), (p 873 which

Marvel at Marvel Travel east to Travel Experience Experience Hike and bike and bike Hike Rave till dawn in till dawn Rave Down a Down Wander the Wander Chill in Explore the Explore Wonder at Wonder (p 865 ), a (p 853 ), a historic, a historic, ), 853 (p Phong Nha-Ke Phong Nha-Ke

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ﬀ (p 842 ) a majestic imperial former temples, of capital palaces. and tombs the remote, pristine, pristine, the remote, beach-blessed Islands Dao captivating sights captivating Vietnam’s hugely hugely Vietnam’s capital atmospheric Hanoi spotting. Cat Tien National Park o Nha Trang beach a bombastic city party An preserved perfectly port ancient lanes of of lanes ancient ), (p 898 Vietnam’s uniquely refreshing beer lager Ne beach cosmopolitan resort and watersport colossal caves caves colossal and outstanding scenery mountainous of National Park Bang (p 842 ) (p 828 ) the thousands of of the thousands limestone stunning islands in

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VIETNAM 810 811 Ba Be Nanning National Park Phu CHINA Thong Pingxiang Dong Dang Thai Lang Dongxing Son Nguyen Mong Cai Halong Zhanjiang HANOI City Bai Tu Long Bay VIETNAM Haiphong VIETNAM Nam Halong Bay Dinh Cat Ba Island & Cat Ba National Park Red River Delta Ninh Binh HANOI Tam Coc SIGHTS Thanh Hoa

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HANOI

VIETNAM 812 813 ‘indecent’ clothing. Hats must be removed and photography is absolutely prohibited. THE 36 STREETS After exiting the mausoleum, check out the following nearby sights in the complex. In the 13th century Hanoi’s 36 guilds established themselves here, each taking Ho Chi Minh Museum a diff erent road – hence the area was (Map p820 ; www.baotanghochiminh.vn; admis- known at the ‘36 Streets’. Hang means VIETNAM sion 15,000d; h8-11.30am daily & 2-4.30pm Tue- ‘merchandise’ and is usually followed by Thu, Sat & Sun) is a triumphalist monument the name of the product that was tradi- dedicated to Ho and the onward march of tionally sold in that street. Thus, P Hang revolutionary socialism. There are Ho me- Gai translates as ‘Silk Street’. mentos and some fascinating photos. Find HANOI an English-speaking guide, as some of the symbolism is hard on your own. the Governor General of Indochina. It’s not open to the public. Ho Chi Minh’s Stilt House (Map p820 ; admission 15,000d; hsummer 7.30- 11am & 2-4pm, winter 8-11am & 1.30-4pm, closed o Temple of Literature TEMPLE all day Mon & Fri afternoon) Behind the mauso- (Van Mieu; Map p820; P Quoc Tu Giam; admission leum, this was supposedly Ho’s offi cial resi- 10,000d; h8am-5pm) Hanoi’s peaceful Temple dence, on and off , between 1958 and 1969. Its of Literature was dedicated to Confucius in simplicity reinforces his reputation as a man 1070 by Emperor Ly Thanh Tong, and later of the people. established as a university for the education of mandarins. A well-preserved jewel One Pillar Pagoda of traditional Vietnamese architecture, with (Chua Mot Cot; Map p820 ; admission free) Built by roofed gateways and low-eaved buildings, Emperor Ly Thai Tong (reign 1028–54) and this temple is an absolute must-see. designed to represent a lotus blossom, a sym- Five courtyards are present within the bol of purity, rising out of a sea of sorrow. temple grounds. The front gate is inscribed with a request that visitors dismount from Presidential Palace their horses before entering. Make sure (Map p820 ) In stark contrast to Ho’s stilt you do. There’s a peaceful refl ecting pool house, this imposing restored colonial build- in the front courtyard, and don’t miss the ing was constructed in 1906 as the palace of Khue Van Pavilion at the back of the second courtyard.

SCAM ALERT!

Hanoi is a very safe city on the whole and crimes against tourists are extremely rare. That said, the city certainly has its share of scams. » Fake Hotels The taxi and minibus mafia at the airport take unwitting tourists to the wrong hotel. Invariably, the hotel has appropriated the name of another popular property and will then attempt to swindle as much of your money as possible. Check out a room before you check in. And walk on if you have any suspicions. » Hotel Tours Some budget hotel staff have been verbally aggressive and threatened physical violence towards guests who’ve declined to book tours through their in- house tour agency. Don’t feel pressured, and if it persists, find another place to stay. » Women Walking alone at night is generally safe in the Old Quarter but you should always be aware of your surroundings. Hailing a taxi is a good idea if it’s late and you have a long walk home. » The Kindness of Strangers There’s a scam going on around Hoan Kiem Lake. A friendly local approaches you, offering to take you out. You end up at a karaoke bar or a restaurant, where the bill is upwards of US$100. Gay men have been targeted in this way. Exercise caution and follow your instincts. Make sure you report scams to the Vietnam National Administration of Tourism (Map p816 ; %3356 0789; www.hanoitourism.gov.vn; 3 Tran Phu), who might well pressure the cowboys into cleaning up their act. 1 2 5 3 4 ‚ 12 8 To This ú # i Ly Tha MUSEUM ú # uan PNguyen Huu H # 17 Cua (60m) û # D D To Bun Rieu 11 Offroad Vietnam ú # au 15 D û # PHang PHangBe Go

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HANOI

VIETNAM 814 815 Tay Ho (West Lake) LAKE Old Quarter (Map p812 ) North of the centre, Tay Ho is the æ Top Sights city’s largest lake and is ringed by upmarket Bach Ma Temple...... B2 suburbs. On the south side of the lake, along Ð Thuy Khue, is a string of popular seafood æ Sights restaurants, and to the east, the Xuan Dieu Dong Xuan Market...... (see 20) strip is lined with restaurants, cafes, bou- VIETNAM 1 Memorial House ...... D3 tiques and luxury hotels. You’ll also fi nd two temples on its shores; the Tay Ho and Tran Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Quoc pagodas. 2 Buffalo Tours ...... D3 A newly installed pathway now circles the 3 Ethnic Travel ...... B3 lake, making for a great bicycle ride. HANOI Free Wheelin' Tours...... (see 18) 4 Handspan Travel Indochina...... D3 Lenin Park PARK 5 Ocean Tours...... D4 (Map p822 ; admission 5000d; h4am-9pm) The 6 Vega Travel ...... C3 nearest green lung to the Old Quarter, Lenin Park is about 2km south of Hoan Kiem Lake. ÿ Sleeping It’s a great place to escape urban Hanoi (and 7 Hanoi Backpackers 2 ...... C2 incorporates Bau Mau Lake) and has a ú Eating couple of cafes. 8 Bun Oc Saigon ...... D5 Activities 9 Nola...... D3 2 10 Quan Bia Minh...... C4 Army Hotel SWIMMING 11 Spot ...... D4 (33C P Pham Ngu Lao) In central Hanoi, the 12 Xoi Yen...... D4 pool is big enough for laps and open all year. û Drinking 13 Café Pho Co ...... B5 C Courses 14 Cheeky Quarter ...... C2 Highway 4 COOKING 15 Le Pub...... D4 ( %3715 0577; www.highway4.com; 3 Hang Tre; 16 Mao's Red Lounge...... C3 classes US$27-50) Incorporates a cyclo ride 17 Roots ...... D3 and market tour, before continuing to High- 18 Tet...... C2 way 4’s Tay Ho restaurant. Also cocktail- making classes (per person US$29) using ý Entertainment Son Tinh liquors. 19 Municipal Water Puppet Theatre ...... D5 4 Sleeping þ Shopping Most budget and midrange visitors make for 20 Dong Xuan Market...... A1 the Old Quarter or the neighbouring Hoan 21 Hanoi Gallery...... B3 Kiem Lake area for accommodation. 22 Old Propaganda Posters...... B3 OLD QUARTER Hanoi Rendezvous Hotel HOTEL $$ impressive Bahnar communal structure (o ff Map p814 ; %3828 5777; www.hanoi and a Yao home. Don’t miss the soaring, rendezvous.com; 31 P Hang Dieu; dm/s/d/tr thatched-roofed Giarai tomb, complete with US$7.50/25/30/35; aiW) Aussie-run Hanoi risqué wooden statues. Rendezvous features spacious rooms, good Displays are labelled in Vietnamese, dorms, friendly staff , and well-run tours. French and English. Don’t miss the reproductions of classic The museum is in Cau Giay District, Vietnam-themed movies in the downstairs about 7km northwest of the city centre. A breakfast bar. metered taxi here is around 120,000d (one- Hanoi Backpackers 2 HOSTEL $ way); xe om (motorbike taxi) about 50,000d. (Map p814 ; %3935 1890; www.hanoibackpackers The cheapest way to arrive is to take bus 14 hostel.com; 9 Ma May; dm US$6-9, tw & d US$40; (3000d) from Hoan Kiem Lake and get off aiW) Spanking new hostel off ering an at the junction between Ð Hoang Quoc Viet excellent location, spotless dorms and and Ð Nguyen Van Huyen. $ ) ) $ $

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(Map p AROUND HOAN KIEM LAKE o (o Hanoi Guesthouse Hanoi Guesthouse designer doubles. It has a very social restau- info and tours too. good travel rant and bar,

HANOI

VIETNAM 816 817 e 0200mspiced and inexpensive. And don’t miss the # 00.1miles E F essential experience of street-food dining. OLD QUARTER Lo Su o Highway 4 VIETNAMESE $$ 1 ( %3926 0639; www.highway4.com; 3 P Hang

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r northern mountains. Feast on bite-sized HANOI a n snacks like superb nem ca xa lo (catﬁ sh Ly Q u Th n a spring rolls) and wash it all down with a bot- n a 2 g tle or two of delicious Son Tinh liquor made i T K o h from sticky rice. It’s on the east side of the a i Old Quarter, along Hang Bac.

›# Hong Ha Cha Ca Thang Long VIETNAMESE $$ #ï Tourism 21 (o ff Map p820 ; 21 P Duong Thanh; cha ca 150,000d; h10am-3pm & 5-10pm) Grill your own suc- FRENCH QUARTER &HAIBATRUNG culent fi sh with a little shrimp paste and DISTRICT n 3 plenty of herbs in this place down a small e y alley. Cha ca is an iconic Hanoi fi sh dish. u u Q Hie ú# ung o 10 Le Ph g Spot INTERNATIONAL $$ N

P (Map p814 ; P Hang Be; mains 100,000-200,000d) Decorated with propaganda posters, the anh LyDaoTh Spot is good for Western-style grub: salads, PTrangTi# 20 grilled tuna and Greek-style salmon sand- í# g Tien wiches. There’s a decent range of wines by en P Tran New Zealand 4 the glass. Occasionally DJs spin tunes later Embassy ý# 16 on in the evening.

Quan Bia Minh VIETNAMESE $ E F (Map p814 ; 7A P Dinh Liet; meals 80,000-120,000d) A bia hoi joint with well-priced Vietnamese due to the ‘Free Beer’ (very) happy hour eve- food and excellent service. Bag an outdoor ry night from 8pm to 9pm. table, grab a cold beer and tuck in.

Especen Hotel HOTEL $ Nola CAFE $ (Map p816 ; %3824 4401; www.especen.vn; 28 P Tho (Map p814 ; 89 P Ma May; snacks 30,000-60,000d) Xuong; s/d US$17/20; aiW) Spacious, light This fi ne bar-cafe boasts retro furniture and well-kept rooms and a relatively tranquil lo- a boho ambience, so it’s coff ee and cake in cation. There are two other branches nearby. the day and beer after dark. A good place to meet Hanoi’s hip young things. OTHER AREAS Drift HOSTEL $ AROUND HOAN KIEM LAKE (Map p822 ; %3944 8415; www.thedriftbackpackers o Ly Club GOURMET VIETNAMESE $$ hostel.com; 42 Truong Han Sieu; dm US$6, r US$20- (Map p816 ; %3936 3069; www.lyclub.vn; 4 Le 25; aiW) Aussie-run hostel with a social Phung Hieu; meals US$10-15) Set in an elegant ambience, a free breakfast, a movie room French colonial mansion, this restaurant’s and a cafe specialising in comfort food. It’s impressive dining room is a great location a 20-minute walk south of the Old Quarter. for a gourmet meal. The menu excels at both Asian and Vietnamese fl avours as well as 5 Eating international dishes. When someone asks, Whatever your budget (or your tastes) it’s ‘So where did you go for your last night in available here. Get stuck into the local cui- Hanoi?’, this is the correct answer. sine, which is wonderfully tasty, fragrantly $ $ CAFE CAFE CAFE (steamed VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE joints by the bars, congenial Kiwi cafe culture: bia hoi banh nam banh ) Wn Exceptional and well-priced In the same location since 1936, In 24hr; 24hr; ; 18-28 Tong Duy Tan; mains 60,000- Tan; Duy Tong ; 18-28 h ; cnr P Hang Bong & P Cam Chi; mains Hang Bong & P ; cnr P Tempting tapas – try the double- Tempting clas- eine-infused labyrinth is a Hanoi 820 Hanoi ...... E4 of Tourism...... F3 ff 820 Drinking American Club...... D4 Centre Culturel Francaise de Vietnam National Administration Factory...... B1 GC Pub ...... C1 Cinematheque...... D4 Face Club ...... D4 Hanoi Opera House...... F4 Tunnel ...... (see 12) Hang Da Market ...... A1 Things of Substance ...... B2 ee meccas include P Trieu Viet Vuong, Viet Vuong, ee meccas include P Trieu Information Drinking Entertainment Shopping ff 17 21 12 15 13 18 19 16 14 20 ï û ý þ rice pancake with minced shrimp). Run by a with minced shrimp). Run rice pancake friendly family. Hue cuisine, including Hue pubs, grungy clubs and barrel-load. Cafes come in every persuasion too: from old school to hip young thing. Kiem Lake, around 1km south of Hoan which has scores of cafes. Tri Duy Cafe Phu) Yen P (43A Net Hue Net (Map p GREATER HANOI 6 has sophisticated Hanoi Cafes Co Puku (Map p cooked pork belly – and superb dessertscooked restaurant and bar. feature at this stylish 30,000-60,000d) 110,000d; 110,000d; this ca ladders and stairways the tiny tosic. Negotiate 250,000d) great burgers, Mexican wraps and all day wraps and all great burgers, Mexican eggy breakfasts.

$ ) $ t $$ $$ fi CAFE CAFE Wn CAFE CAFE FUSION FUSION Super- ) VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE v is KOTO avours. fl Incredibly busy, busy, Incredibly 7.30am-5pm; closed dinner Mon; closed h h 11am-11pm) ; www.southgatehanoi.com; 28 Tong Tong 28 ; www.southgatehanoi.com; h ; 15 P Phan Boi Chau; dishes 35,000- Phan Boi Chau; dishes ; 15 P ; www.thecartfood.com; 18 P Au Trieu; Trieu; Au 18 P ; www.thecartfood.com; c street-food-style dishes, includ- ; www.koto.com.au; 59 P Van Mieu; meals Van P 59 ; www.koto.com.au; fi 820 Quan An Quan Ngon 816 820

Bun Cha Nem Cua Be Dac KimCart...... A1 B2 Ly Club...... E3 Mien Xao Luon ...... A1 Hanoi Backpackers Hostel ...... B2 Madame Moon Guesthouse ...... B1 Banh Ghoi...... B2 6 on Sixteen ...... C1 Central Backpackers Hanoi...... B1 Especen Hotel...... B2 Hoa Lo Prison Museum...... A4 Hoan Kiem Lake...... D2 Ngoc Son Temple...... C1 St Joseph Cathedral...... B2 820 1 7 KOTO 5 2 3 8 9 6 Eating Sleeping Sights Top Sights 4 11 10

ú ÿ æ æ Around Hoan Kiem Lake projectcareer training and that provides guidance to disadvantaged kids. 80,000d; 80,000d; baguettes 40,000d; 40,000d; baguettes Stunning four-storey modernist cafe-bar- of Literature. restaurant near the Temple It has daily specials, excellent Vietnamese food and modern Western an extraordinarily successful not-for-pro lative pies, interesting baguettes and excel- lative pies, interesting baguettes lent juices (try the apple, carrot and ginger creative, healthy of haven juice) at this little food. Western Southgate Southgate (Map p

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o (Map p WEST OF THE OLD QUARTER (Map p Cart Duy Tan; tapas 90,000-120,000d, mains 130,000- 90,000-120,000d, tapas Tan; Duy 95,000-140,000d; 95,000-140,000d; popular place where mini-kitchens turn out terri ing specialities from all over the nation squid with lemongrass and chilli. Belike prepared to wait for a table.

HANOI

VIETNAM 818 819

THE OLD QUARTER’S TOP STREET FOOD

When in Hanoi, chow down with the masses. Most of these stalls specialise in just one dish and have somewhat ﬂ exible opening hours. » Bun Cha Nem Cua Be Dac Kim (Map p816 ; 67 P Duong Thanh; h11am-3pm) The

bun cha at this place is a heady combination of grilled pork patties, crab spring rolls, VIETNAM vermicelli noodles and fresh herbs. » Banh Cuon (off Map p814 ; 14 P Hang Ga; h8am-4pm) Gossamer-light banh cuon (steamed rice crepes filled with minced pork, mushrooms and ground shrimp).

» Pho Gia Truyen (49 P Bat Dan; h7-10am) Head here for classic pho (hearty broth HANOI with noodles and tender beef), a breakfast of champions. » Banh Ghoi (Map p816 ; 52 P Ly Quoc Su; h10am-7pm) Under a banyan tree near St Joseph Cathedral, this stall turns out banh ghoi, moreish deep-fried pastries crammed with pork, vermicelli and mushrooms. » Bun Oc Saigon (Map p814 ; cnr P Nguyen Huu Huan & P Hang Thung; h11am-11pm) Shellfish specials here include bun oc (snail noodle soup) with a hearty dash of tart tamarind. » Bun Bo Nam Bo (67 P Hang Dieu; h11am-10pm) Bu bo nam bo (dry noodles with beef) is a zingy southern Vietnamese dish mixed with bean sprouts, garlic, lemongrass and green mango. » Xoi Yen (Map p814 ; cnr P Nguyen Huu Huan & P Hang Mam; h7am-11pm) Specialises in sticky rice topped with goodies including sweet Asian sausage, gooey fried egg and slow-cooked pork. » Mien Xao Luon (Map p816 ; 87 P Hang Dieu; h7am-2pm) Crunchy fried eels prepared three different ways. » Bun Rieu Cua (off Map p814 ; 40 P Hang Tre; h7-9am) A Hanoi breakfast classic, bun rieu cua (crab noodle soup) is noodle broth laced with fried shallots and garlic, and topped with shrimp paste and chilli. the 3rd-fl oor balcony and order the delicious o Quan Ly BAR caphe sua chua (iced coff ee with yoghurt). It’s (Map p822 ; 82 Le Van Hu) Traditional ruou a couple of blocks east of Truc Bach Lake. (Vietnamese liquor) bar complete with ginseng, snake and gecko creations, and Café Pho Co CAFE (Map p814 ; 11 P Hang Gai) One of Hanoi’s best- you’ll also fi nd cheap bia hoi and good Viet- kept secrets, this place has plum views over namese tucker. Yes, that is the genial owner Hoan Kiem Lake. Enter through the silk meeting Ho Chi Minh in the photograph on shop and continue up to the top fl oor for the wall. the mother of all vistas. For something de- liciously diff erent try the caphe trung da, coff ee with a silky-smooth beaten egg white. SPLURGE: QUAN HAI Kinh Do Café CAFE SAN NGON (Map p820 ; 252 P Hang Bong) Featured in Cath- Quan Hai San Ngon (%3719 3169; erine Deneuve’s Indochine, this place serves 198 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho; mains 150,000- tasty French pastries and feisty coff ee. 200,000d) is perhaps Hanoi’s most Cong Caphe CAFE atmospheric dining space, arrayed (Map p822 ; 152 P Trieu Viet Vuong) The caff eine elegantly around giant alfresco refl ect- scene here features eclectic beats and kitsch ing pools, and showcasing excellent Communist memorabilia. Vietnamese seafood – try the briny Halong Bay oysters topped with Bars wasabi. It’s a 10-minute-taxi ride from Ha Tien in the Old Quarter has a choice of central Hanoi. bars and is a good starting or fi nishing point for a crawl.

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VIETNAM 820 821 GC Pub PUB West of the Old Quarter (Map p816 ; 7 P Bao Khanh) Looks pretty run æ Top Sights down from the street but it gets very lively Fine Arts Museum...... B4 on weekend nights. Popular with gay Hanoi- Ho Chi Minh's Mausoleum...... B3 ans and has pool tables. Temple of Literature (Van Mieu) ...... B5 Tet BAR VIETNAM æ Sights (Map p814 ; 2A P Ta Hien) Compact bar that’s 1 Ho Chi Minh Mausoleum best very late at night when the music is Complex Entrance ...... A3 turned up and it morphs into one of Hanoi’s 2 Ho Chi Minh Museum...... A3 smallest clubs. 3 Ho Chi Minh's Stilt House ...... A2 HANOI 4 One Pillar Pagoda ...... B3 3 Entertainment 5 Presidential Palace ...... B2 Cinemas ú Eating Megastar Cineplex CINEMA 6 KOTO ...... B5 (Map p822 ; www.megastarmedia.net/en; 6th fl , 7 Net Hue ...... D5 Vincom Tower, 191 Ba Trieu) Multiplex with inter- 8 Puku...... D5 national standards. Tickets from US$2.50. 9 Quan An Ngon ...... D5 Cinematheque CINEMA 10 Southgate ...... D5 (Map p816 ; 22A Hai Ba Trung) A mecca for art- û Drinking house fi lm lovers, this is a Hanoi institution. 11 Kinh Do Café...... D5 Clubbing þ Shopping Hanoi is defi nitely not the Ibiza of the north, 12 Bookworm ...... D1 and the often-enforced midnight curfew 13 Craft Link ...... B5 means dance action is very limited. Also check out the bar-clubs in the Old Quarter. ï Information 14 Canadian Embassy...... B3 Face Club CLUB 15 Chinese Embassy ...... C4 (Map p816 ; 6 P Hang Bai) Face Club dishes up 16 German Embassy ...... C4 lots of lasers, music ranging from hip hop to 17 Singapore Embassy ...... C4 techno, and a booming sound system. Popu- 18 Thailand Embassy ...... C4 lar with well-off Hanoians.

Tunnel CLUB (Map p816 ; 11B P Bao Khanh) Happy-hour Mao’s Red Lounge BAR promotions and DJ nights make this a (Map p814 ; 5 P Ta Hien; hopen late) The most happening multifl oor late-night spot. popular place on P Ta Hien, this is jammed with a sociable crowd on weekend nights. It’s a classic dive bar with dim lighting and GAY & LESBIAN HANOI swirling smoke. There are very few gay venues in Le Pub PUB Hanoi, but plenty of places that are (Map p814 ; 25 P Hang Be) British-style pub with gay- friendly. However offi cial attitudes a street-facing terrace popular with travellers are still fairly conservative and Hanoi is and foreign residents. Good comfort grub. home to these offi cial attitudes. Police Roots BAR raids in the name of ‘social reform’ aren’t (Map p814 ; 2 Luong Ngoc Quyen; h8pm-late) Pri- unknown and that tends to ensure gays marily a reggae bar, this is the place for some and lesbians keep a low profi le. serious bassline pressure and can be a riot on The website www.utopia-asia.com the right night. Lock-ins have been known. has up-to-date information about gay Hanoi. See also the Vietnam informa- 21N Club BAR tion section on www.cambodiaout.com. (49 Lang Yen Phu, Tay Ho) A lakeside location Note the warning on p 813 regard- spills out onto waterfront seating. There’s ing possible scams in the area around regular live music and ‘Sailor’ microbrewed Hoan Kiem Lake. beer.

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Municipal Water Puppet Theatre Theatre Puppet Water Municipal Map p Thang Long; Nuoc (Roi (www.hanoirockcity.com; 27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho) Tay Van, Ngoc To 27/52 (www.hanoirockcity.com; Hanoi Rock City Hanoi Rock (Map p Hanoi Opera House House Hanoi Opera Music Live traditional music is performed daily at of Literature. the Temple 3.30pm, 5pm, 6.30pm, 8pm & 9.15pm) 8pm & 9.15pm) 6.30pm, 5pm, 3.30pm, waterpuppet.org; 57B P Dinh Tien Hoang; admis- Hoang; Tien Dinh P 57B waterpuppet.org; sion 60,000-100,000d; cinating art form originated in northern is the best place to Vietnam, and Hanoi children. An absolute must for catch a show. in 1911, hosts occasional classical music performances. The atmosphere and acoustics are incredible.

HANOI

VIETNAM 822 823 Bookshops New Hanoian (www.newhanoian.com) The Bookworm BOOKS city’s premier online resource, well worth (Map p820 ; www.bookwormhanoi.com; 44 Chau checking out for its up-to-date restaurant, bar Long) Hanoi’s best selection of new and used and accommodation reviews. English-language books, including plenty of The Word (www.wordhanoi.com) Online ver- ﬁ ction. sion of the excellent, free monthly magazine, The Word. VIETNAM Markets Medical Services Dong Xuan Market MARKET Hanoi Family Medical Practice (%3843 0748; (Map p814 ) Hundreds of stalls and not tour- www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; Van Phuc isty. Catch a ﬂ avour of Hanoian street life h

Diplomatic Compound, 298 P Kim Ma; 24hr) HANOI here. Includes a team of well-respected international physicians and dentists. Hang Da Market MARKET (Map p816 ; Yen Thai) Small, but good for L’Hopital Français de Hanoi (%3577 1100, imported foods, wine, beer and fl owers. emergency 3574 1111; www.hfh.com.vn; 1 Phuong Mai; h24hr) Long-established, Silk Products & Clothing international -standard hospital with A&E, inten- P Hang Gai, about 100m northwest of Hoan sive care, dental clinic and consulting services. Kiem Lake, and its continuation, P Hang SOS International Clinic (%3826 4545; www. Bong, are good places to look for embroidery internationalsos.com; 51 Xuan Dieu; h24hr) and silk (including tailored clothes). English, French, German and Japanese are spoken and there’s a dental clinic. It’s 5km north of Things of Substance CLOTHING central Hanoi. (Map p816 ; 5 P Nha Tho) Tailored fashions at Money moderate prices. Hanoi has many ATMs, and on the main roads around Hoan Kiem Lake are international banks 8 Information where you can change money and get cash Cultural Centres advances on credit cards. American Club (Map p 816 ; %3824 1850; 19-21 P Hai Ba Trung) Post British Council (%3728 1922; www.british Main post office (Map p816 ; 75 P Dinh Tien council.org/vietnam; 20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho). Hoang) Hosts cultural events, exhibitions, workshops International post office (Map p816 ; cnr P and fashion shows. Dinh Tien Hoang & P Dinh Le) Centre Culturel Française de Hanoi (Map Telephone p 816 ; %3936 2164; www.ifhanoi-lespace.com; 24 P Trang Tien) Music and art in the modernist Guesthouses and internet cafes are convenient L’Espace building. for local calls. For international services, internet cafes using Skype off er the cheapest rates. Dangers & Annoyances International Call Service (Map p 814 ; 3 P Ta See p813 . Hien; h7am-10pm) Costs 1500d to 2000d per minute to most countries. Emergency Ambulance (%115) Tourist Information Fire (%114) Even though this is the capital, forget anything Police (%113) really useful like a helpful tourism offi ce that dishes out free information. In the cafes and Internet Access bars of the Old Quarter look for the excellent Most budget and midrange hotels off er free local magazine, The Word. internet access as standard, computers in the Tourist Information Center (Map p 814 ; P Dinh lobby and wi-fi . You’ll fi nd several cybercafes Tien Hoang; h8.30am-9pm) City maps and on P Hang Bac in the Old Quarter; rates start at brochures, but privately run with an emphasis on 5000d per hour. selling tours. Pick up a copy of the handy pocket- sized Hanoi City Pass free book. Internet Resources To get the most out of Hanoi, try the following Travel Agencies websites: Hanoi has hundreds of budget travel agencies. Hanoi Grapevine (www.hanoigrapevine.com) A It’s not advisable to book trips or tickets through culture vulture’s paradise, this site has a useful guesthouses and hotels. Dealing directly with events calendar. tour operators gives you a much better idea of bus ff (Map p 814 ; 814 (Map p Map p 812 ; Ð Ngoc 812 Map p ff (Map p 812 ; Tran Quang Quang Tran ; 812 p (Map (o (Ð Giai Phong), it’s 7km (Ð Pham Hung), 7km west 1900 1550; www.jetstar. 1550; 1900 Hong Ha Tourism Ha Hong % ces, displayed schedules and ( ffi the street. bus station ff

3824 7339; Hong Ha Hotel, 204 Quang Tran Note that taxis at Luong are Yen notorious for Some buses from Ninh Binh and the south use Tourist-style minibuses can be booked Open-tour bus tickets (hop-on hop-o Buses also connect Hanoi with Nanning in Chi- Gia Lam bus station xed prices. xed Bus % Hanoi has three main long-distance bus stations, each serving a particular area. It’s a good idea to arrange your travel the day before you want to leave. The stations are pretty well organised with ticket o Khai). Tickets should be purchased in advance and you may be asked to show your Chinese visa; see p 905 . Jetstar Airways Jetstar com) Operates low-cost flights to Danang, Danang, to flights low-cost Operates com) Trang. Nha and HCMC fi Lam), 3km northeastof the centre on the far bank of the Song Hong(Red River), isthe place forbuses to points east and northeast of Hanoi. Loung bus Yen station Khai & Nguyen Khoai), 3km southeast of the Old Quarter, serves destinations to the south and the east, including sleeper buses to Hue, Dalat and Nha Trang and transport to Cat Ba Island. theirdodgy meters. Walk a couple of blocks and hail one o My Dinh bus station of the city, provides services to the west and the north, including sleeper buses to Dien Bien Phu. Bat Giap south of the Hanoi train station. through most hotels and cafes. Popular destinations include Halong Bay and Sapa. Prices are usually about 30% to 40% higher than the regular public bus, but include a hotel pick-up. services that connect the capital with HCMC) are available in Hanoi for destinations, including Hue. and Binh Ninh dailyna. Two services 7.30am and (at 9.30am) to Nanning (450,000d, eight hours) leave from the of terminal private ightsin fl 1900 545 486; 486; 545 1900 % ights than Ho Chi fl ering tours of (Map p 814 ; ; 814 p (Map 3926 1951; www. 1951; 3926 ff 3926 0463; www. 0463; 3926 3926 2092; www. 2092; 3926 % % % (Map p 816 ; ; 816 p (Map (Map (Map ; p 814 (Map (Map ; p 814 (Map p 814 ; ; 814 p (Map

Getting There & Away DESTINATION Halong City(Bai Chay) Haiphong100,000 Lao Cai COST (D) Ha Giang Cao Bang3½ 70,000 DURATION (HR) 250,000 170,000 FREQUENCY 180,000 2 30 min every 9 7 8 every 20 min 1pm & 7pm approx hourly 5 daily

BUSES FROM GIA LAM 3926 2828; www.handspan.com; 78 P Ma Ma P 78 www.handspan.com; 2828; 3926 For nationwide operators o operators nationwide For Successful tour operators often have their Air Vega Travel oceantours.com.vn; 22 P Hang Bac) Profes- Bac) Hang P 22 oceantours.com.vn; with operator tour well-organised sional, options, Park National Be Ba and Bay Halong and 4WD road trips around the northeast. Handspan Travel Indochina Travel Handspan ethnictravel.com.vn; 35 P Hang Giay) Off-the- beaten-track trips across the north in small groups. Some trips are low-impact using public activity are others homestays; and transport based (including hiking, cycling and cooking). tours. Bay Long Tu Bai Offers

Hanoi has fewer international 8 Airlines Vietnam Minh City (HCMC), but with a change of aircraft in Hong Kong or Bangkok you can get almost anywhere. For more on international . and905 out of Hanoi, see p % E t h n i c T r a v e l Hanoi and northern Vietnam, see p 907 . For Hanoi and northern 907 Vietnam, see p . motorbike906 tours, see p names cloned by others looking to trade on their reputation, so check addresses andwebsites carefully. Consider the following places in the Quarter: Old what you’ll get for your money; seek out those operators that stick to small groups. www.vietnamair.com.vn;25 P Trang Thi) Links Vietnam. throughout destinations to Hanoi Popular routes include Hanoi to Dalat, Danang, Dien Bien Phu, HCMC, Hue and Nha Trang, all daily. served Ocean Tours May) Highly recommended for its wide range range wide its for recommended Highly May) ecocamp an using trips sea-kayaking tours: of biking, mountain tours, jeep Bay, Ha Lan in tourism. community-based and trekking vegatravel.vn; cnr P Ma May & 24A P Hang Bac) Well-run tours around the north and throughout supports Financially minority kinder- Vietnam. gartens and schools around Sapa and Bac Ha.

HANOI

VIETNAM 824 825

BUSES FROM LOUNG YEN

DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY Dalat 440,000 24 11am & 6pm Hue 220,000 12 hourly 2-6pm VIETNAM Danang 240,000 13 hourly from 2-6pm Ninh Binh 55,000 2½ every 20 min 6am-6pm Nha Trang170,000 7 10am & 6pm HANOI

Car & Motorcycle side of the river. Be sure to ask just where you Car hire is best arranged via a travel agency, need to go to catch your train. hotel or tour operator. The roads in the north In theory, Vietnam Rail (www.vr.com.vn) has are in pretty good shape but expect an aver- timetables and prices in English, though it’s age speed of 35km to 40km per hour. You’ll rarely updated; try the rail website www.seat defi nitely need a 4WD. Daily rates start at about 61.com. US$110 a day (including driver and petrol). For It’s best to buy tickets at least one day before more, see p 906 . departure to ensure a seat or sleeper. Travel Hanoi is a nightmare to negotiate on a motor- agents will book train tickets for a commission. bike – we suggest you leave it to the locals. If you’re really up for the challenge, try the Hanoi 8 Getting Around tour operators on p 906 for reliable machines. Bicycle Train Many Old Quarter guesthouses and cafes rent The main Hanoi train station (Ga Hang Co; Map bikes for about US$2 per day. Good luck with p 820 ; 120 Ð Le Duan; hticket offi ce 7.30am- that traffi c. 12.30pm & 1.30-7.30pm) is at the western end of Bus P Tran Hung Dao. Trains from here go to destinations south. Plenty of local buses (fares from 3000d) serve routes around Hanoi but very few tourists bother To the right of the main entrance of the train with them. station is a separate ticket offi ce for northbound trains to Lao Cai (for Sapa) and China (see Pick up a copy of the Xe Buyt Hanoi (Hanoi p 905 ). Note that all northbound trains leave Bus Map; 5000d) from bookshops if you want to from a separate station (just behind the main tackle the system. station) called Tran Quy Cap station (B Station; Cyclo Map p 820; P Tran Qui Cap). A few cyclo (pedicab) drivers still frequent the To make things even more complicated, some Old Quarter. Settle on a price fi rst and watch out northbound (Lao Cai and Lang Son included) for overcharging. and eastbound (Haiphong) trains depart from Gia Lam (Nguyen Van Cu, Gia Lam District) on Aim to pay around 25,000d for a shortish jour- the eastern side of the Song Hong (Red River), ney; night rides are more. Not many cyclo drivers and Long Bien (Map p 812 ) on the western (city) speak English, so take a map with you.

TRAINS FROM HANOI

DESTINATION STATION COST SOFT SEAT-SLEEPER (D)DURATION (HR) Danang Hanoi 570,000-915,000 15½-21 Haiphong Long Bien & Gia Lam 47,000-60,000 2-3 HCMC Hanoi 1,175,000-1,690,000 30-41 Hue Hanoi 508,000-833,000 12-16 Lao Cai Tran Quy Cap 210,000-450,000 8½-9½ Nha Trang Hanoi 1,030,000-1,510,000 19-28

) $ $ $$ HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL (goat HOTEL HOTEL aiW de our. You can You our. fl el.com; 55A Ð Truong Truong Ð 55A el.com; A well-run hotel with ) ) and Cuc Phuong National ) and Cuc Phuong National 827 ), is the real draw. aiW Probably the best place to mingle Probably , a village 8km southwest of Hanoi. 8km southwest , a village namese karst scenery and bucolic ) side. The town, though industrial, 827 Thanhthuy’s Guest Guest Thanhthuy’s Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping aiW 387 2439; www.thanhbinhhotelnb.com.vn; 31 Ð www.thanhbinhhotelnb.com.vn; 2439; 387 387 1811; www.hotelthanhthuy.com; 128 Ð Le 128 Ð Le 1811; www.hotelthanhthuy.com; 387 387 1602; www.thuyanhhot 1602; 387 Restaurant choices are limited, but while Restaurant choices are limited, Tours of handicraft of are best ar- villages Tours 030 / POP 130,000 % % % Popular with budget travellers – the rooms with budget travellers Popular are good, the owner is friendly and there’s a restaurant. good-value rooms, particularly the spotless, The restaurant modern options at the rear. food (including a hearty serves Western complimentary breakfast) and Vietnamese dishes. Luong Van Tuy; s US$10-25, d US$15-30; d US$15-30; s US$10-25, Tuy; Van Luong Hong Phong; guesthouse r US$7-10, hotel r US$15- hotel r US$7-10, Hong Phong; guesthouse 25; Thanh Binh Hotel Thanh Binh Hotel ( Thuy Anh Hotel ( see silk cloth being produced on a loom in on a loom produced cloth being see silk 4 Accommodation is excellent value here. All tours and hirethe places listed can arrange and bicycles.out motorbikes here try the local speciality, you’re meat), usually served with fresh herbs and There are dozens of places lining rice paper. the road to Chua Bai Dinh. o ( dles, some made from cassava cassava from made some dles, Van Phuc Ninh Binh % The south of Ha- of Ninh Binh, 93km city a but it’s destination in itself, noi, isn’t a good base for exploring some quintessentially Viet country has its pleasant aspects, proximity but the mountainsof sights, including the limestone Coc (p of Tam (p Park ranged in Hanoi; expect aroundpay to in Hanoi; ranged driver for the day. for a car and US$40 Han Sieu; s/d old wing US$20/25, new wing new old wing US$20/25, Han Sieu; s/d US$30/45; with other travellers, this popular hotel is with other travellers, including some very run by a friendly crew, switched-on tour guides. Rooms, all very vary quite a clean and some with balcony, bit in price and comfort level. House & New Hotel Hotel & New House c is c ffi er day er ff ) o 823 (per person , 25km south- So is a striking com- (Chua Huong; admission (Chua 3821 5215) 3821 electric train Tich Mountain. s of Huong 3822 2666) 3822 % ff ( (motorbike taxi) rides areinces- % , 13km southeast of Hanoi is, 13km southeast of Hanoi ( 3822 2888) 3822 8.30am-10.30pm) is actually a % red in its kilns. ( fi xe om h

Perfume Pagoda

Bat Trang Bat The main pagoda area is about a 4km cafes (see p travellers’ Hanoi

ers for ers , or take the cable car (one-way/return the cable car (one-way/return , or take Forget getting around Hanoi by motorbike un- ﬀ ﬀ Taxi Motorcycle Electric Train tours to the pagoda from US$10, includingtours to the pagoda from US$10, transport, guide and lunch. It’s mainly a domestic drawcard but the riv- mainly a domestic drawcard It’s er trip (1½ hours by row boat) is scenic, leav- hours from Hanoi). Duc (two ing from My walk up from where the boat lets you o 60,000/100,000d). plexand Buddhist shrines built of pagodas into the karst cli Van Xuan pretty good way to get your bearings. It traverses a networkof stops 14 in the Old Quarter and around Hoan KiemLake. Catch one at the northern); a circuit end816 of Hoan Kiem Lake (p minutes. 40 around takes known for the ceramics, vases and other mas- terpieces west of Hanoi, is famed for its delicate noo- west of Hanoi,

There are numerous villages surrounding that specialise in particularHanoi cottage to make need a good guide industries. You’ll visits worthwhile. H a n d i c r a f t V i l l a g e s

The P e r f u m e P a g o d a relentless, road signs are missing, road manners are nonexistent and it’s dangerous. AROUND HANOI Mai Linh Taxi Linh Mai Taxis are everywhere. Flag fall is around 15,000d, which takes you 1km or 2km; every kilometre thereafter costs around 10,000d. Some dodgy operators have high-speed meters, so use the following reliable companies: O sant. A short ride should be about 30,000d, about 5km around 70,000d. less very you’re familiar with the city – tra Hanoi’s Hanoi’s ecofriendly 15,000d; Thanh Nga Taxi Nga Thanh incl return boat trip 55,000d) boat incl return

AROUNDSLEEPINGPERFUME HANOI PAGODA& EATING

VIETNAM 826 827 8 Information Chua Bai Dinh is 11km northwest of Ninh Binh; you’ll pass dozens of goat meat restau- You’ll fi nd a cluster of internet cafes on Ð Luong Van Tuy and several ATMs on Ð Tran Hung Dao. rants on the way. Guesthouses in Ninh Binh can arrange transport. 8 Getting There & Away Public buses leave very regularly from Giap Bat VIETNAM Cuc Phuong National Park VIETNAM and Loung Yen bus terminals in Hanoi (55,000d, 2½ hours). The bus station is on the east side % 030 / ELEV 150-648M of the Van River. Ninh Binh is also a hub on the This national park (%384 8006; www. open-tour bus route. cucphuongtourism.com; admission 20,000d) is AROUND NINH HANOI BINH Ninh Binh is a scheduled stop for some trains one of Vietnam’s most important nature 8 travelling between Hanoi and HCMC, but travel- preserves, and was declared the nation’s fi rst ling by road is faster. national park in 1963. The hills are laced with grottoes, and the climate is subtropical at the park’s lower elevations. Around Ninh Binh Excellent trekking opportunities abound in the park, including a hike (8km return) to TAM COC an enormous 1000-year-old tree (Tetrameles Famed for huge limestone rock format- nudiflora, for botany geeks), and to a ions that loom over rice paddies, Tam Muong village, where you can also go raft- Coc (admission 30,000d, boat 60,000d) boasts ing. A guide is mandatory for longer treks. breathtaking scenery. During the rainy season (July to Septem- The only way to see Tam Coc is by row- ber) leeches are common; the best time to boat on the Ngo Dong River. The boats pass visit is between December and April. through karst caves on this beautiful two- Be sure to check out the hour trip. Boats seat two passengers (and Endangered Pri- have no shade). Arrive before 9am to beat mate Rescue Center (www.primatecenter.org; h , which is home the crowds, as it can be a bit of a circus 9.30-11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm) to around 150 rare monkeys bred in captiv- thanks to the pushy vendors. ity or confi scated from illegal traders. These Tam Coc is 9km southwest of Ninh Binh. gibbons, langurs and lorises are rehabilitat- By car or motorbike, follow Hwy 1 south and ed, studied and, whenever possible, released turn west at the turn-off . into semi-wild protected areas. H O A L U There’s also a Turtle Conservation Hoa Lu was the capital of Vietnam under Center (h9-11.15am & 2-4.45pm), which hous- the Dinh (968–80) and Le dynasties (980– es over 1000 turtles, many of them confi s- 1009) due to its proximity to China and the cated from smugglers. You’ll fi nd excellent natural protection aff orded by the region’s information displays, and there are incuba- craggy mountainous landscape. tion and hatchling viewing areas. The centre The ancient citadel (admission 12,000d), successfully breeds and releases turtles of 11 most of which, sadly, has been destroyed, diff erent species, including six native turtles. once covered an area of about 3 sq km. There is no public transport to Hoa Lu, 4 Sleeping & Eating which is 12km north of Ninh Binh. Most trav- There are three accommodation areas in the ellers get here by bicycle, motorbike or car. park. At the visitor centre are dark, basic rooms CHUA BAI DINH (per person US$7) and decent en-suite guest- A vast new Buddhist temple complex, Chua house rooms (US$23-27), and 2km away Bai Dinh (h7am-5.45pm) attracts thousands you’ll fi nd attractive bungalows (US$25) of Vietnamese visitors. overlooking Mac Lake. Cloister-like walkways pass 500 stone The main park centre, 18km from the arhats (statues of enlightened Buddhists). gate, has simple rooms (per person US$7), They line the route up to the triple-roofed large four-bed rooms (US$20) and a few Phap Chu pagoda, which contains a 10m, bungalows (r US$28). 100-tonne bronze Buddha. There are restaurants (meals 25,000- An additional 13-storey pagoda and a 50,000d) at both the park centre and visitor temple with Vietnam’s largest bell are other centre. Call ahead and place your order for key attractions at this bombastic sight. each meal (except breakfast). , for more on Ben Mien Xe 829 lling food there are mod- fi ne good budget accommo- fi , 2km west of Halong City, City, , 2km west of Halong 033-384 6592; http://halong.org.vn; 166 http://halong.org.vn; 6592; 033-384 % ( Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping

Most visitors sensibly opt for tours that visitors sensibly Most An elegant suspension bridge connects From February through until April, theuntil April, through February From Halong Bay Management Depart- Management Bay Halong 033 / POP 193,700 ment regulates independent cruises on the bay. cruises on the bay. regulates independent with other people easy here to hook up It’s rates startto share a boat with; at about 50,000d an hour. est places at the bottom of Ð Vuon Dao with of Ð Vuon est places at the bottom English menus. Seafood lovers should gravi- tate to the harbourfront Ð Halong. 4 The ‘hotel Dao has more alley’ of Ð Vuon than 50 minihotels, most of them almost identical, with comfortable doubles around cheap, For US$12. weather is often cold and drizzly, and the en- and is oftenweather cold and drizzly, although low visibility, fog can cause suing 10°C. rarely falls below the temperature the are frequent during storms Tropical to September). (July summer months Some on a boat in the bay. include sleeping City Halong gateway dodge the humdrum completely independently for Cat and head from where trips to less-visited, Ba Town, easily set are Bay equally alluring Lan Ha up. See the boxed text, p organised trips. Halong City % to Halong is the main gateway City Halong ho- Its seafront is blighted by high-rise Bay. tels but you will dation here. side of town (known asthe western, touristy the much more Vietnamese with Bai Chay) Gai) to the east. (Hon entity litter and trinket-touting and now are vendors litter also part experience. of the Ð Thanh Tong) Le NAM XOI NAM villages. ects. Sadly, ﬀ NA MEO TO This route uses the remote Nam Xoi–Na Meo crossing 175km 175km Meo crossing Xoi–Na Nam the remote uses This route Na Meo has several basic, serviceable guesthouses. The border crossing crossing The border guesthouses. serviceable basic, Na Meo has several TO LAOS: It’s best not to get stuck in Nam Xoi, on the Laos side of the border, as trans- the border, side of on the Laos Xoi, Nam in stuck get to not best It’s

Halong Bay’s 3000 or more incredible Bay’s Halong ) to Sam Neua (275,000d) inside Laos, but expect overcharging. but expect inside Laos, Neua (275,000d) Sam ) to

See p 345 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. in the other this border on crossing information for 345 p See Getting There & Away

At the border At 5pm. 7am to is open daily from on Moving Tay no accommodation. and there’s irregular port is extremely GETTING to the border Getting northwest of Thanh Hoa city and 70km east of Sam Neua (Laos). If at all possible, take a take If at all possible, Neua (Laos). Sam of east and 70km city Thanh Hoa of northwest ( bus station western Thanh Hoa’s a daily 8am bus from There’s bus. direct The islands are dotted with wind- and The islands are dotted Bizarre but beautiful, Halong Bay is geol- Bay Bizarre but beautiful, Halong Cuc Phuong can get can Phuong Cuc veryat week- busy wave-eroded grottoes, many now illuminat- many grottoes, wave-eroded e lighting ed with Technicolor Majestic and mysterious, inspiring and impe- and mysterious, Majestic rious, islands rise from the emerald waters of the Heritage a World Designated Gulf of Tonkin. seascape of lime- site in 1994, this mystical stone islets is a vision of breathtaking beauty. Halong Bay

Welcome to the roof of Vietnam, where the Welcome Alps soar sky- mountains of the Tonkinese the most spectacu-ward, delivering some of The attractive lar scenery in the country. of Sapa remains the hill station old French main base in the far north, but nearby Bac less-visited alternative is emerging as a Ha for trekking and exploring hill-tribe NORTHERN VIETNAM NORTHERN South of here, the sublime scenerySouth of here, the sublime and idyl- well are Park of Ba Be National lic lakes wortha diversion. ogy gone wild, with hundreds of limestone the waters. Northpinnacles emerging from Long is less-visited Bai Tu Bay of Halong spectacular show con- where nature’s Bay, to the Chinese border. tinues all the way Or head to rugged Cat Ba, a verdant island renowned for its hiking, biking, sailing, and world-class rock climbing. Cuc Phuong National Parkis 45km west of Ninh Binh, and there are irregular bus connections (18,000d). 8 ends and holiday time, when you should when you time, holiday ends and a reservation.make

NORTHERN8HALONG BAY VIETNAM

VIETNAM 828 829

GETTING TO LAOS: NAM CAN TO NONG HAET

Getting to the border The often mist-shrouded Nam Can–Nong Haet border crossing is 250km northwest of Vinh. Buses between Vinh and Phonsavan cross here, leaving on Wednesday, Friday, Saturday and Sunday (235,000d). For a DIY journey, head to Muong Xen where you’ll need a motorbike to take you uphill 25km to the border at Nam Can VIETNAM (around US$7). VIETNAM At the border Open daily from 8am to 6pm. Moving on Transport on the Laos side to Nong Haet is erratic, but once you get there, you can pick up a bus to Phonsavan. NORTHERNCAT VIETNAM BA ISLAND 8 See p 342 for information on crossing this border in the other direction.

BMC Thang Long Hotel HOTEL $$ ( %384 6458; www.bmcthanglonghotel.com; Ð Cat Ba Island Halong; r US$25-75; aiW) Large hotel with % 031 / POP 13,500 spacious and recently renovated rooms, Rugged, craggy and jungle-clad, Cat Ba is some with ocean views. Staff are warm and emerging as northern Vietnam’s adven- personal, and the Bai Chay tourist docks are ture sport and ecotourism mecca. There’s just across the road. a terrifi c roll-call of activities here – sailing trips, birdwatching, biking, hiking and rock Tung Lam Hotel HOTEL $ climbing – and some fi ne tour operators or- ( %364 0743; 29 Ð Vuon Dao; r US$10-12; aW) This ganising them. minihotel is making a little more eff ort than Lan Ha Bay, off the southeastern side of most. Rooms all have two beds, TV, minibar the island, is especially scenic and off ers nu- and en-suite bathrooms, and those at the merous beaches to explore. You could spend front are spacious and include a balcony. a year here discovering a diff erent islet every day while swimming and snorkelling the bay’s 8 Information turquoise waters. Cat Ba Island has a few fi sh- Post office (Ð Halong) Internet access available. ing villages, as well as a fast-growing town. Vietcombank (Ð Halong) Exchange services Much of Cat Ba Island was declared a and ATM. national park in 1986 to protect the island’s diverse ecosystems and wildlife, including 8 Getting There & Away the endangered golden-headed langur, the The bus station is 6km south of central Bai Chay, world’s rarest primate. There are beauti- just off Hwy 18. ful beaches, numerous lakes, waterfalls and grottoes in the spectacular limestone hills.

CRUISING THE KARSTS: TOURS TO HALONG BAY

Budget tours sold out of Hanoi start from a rock-bottom US$35 per person for a dodgy day-trip, rising to around US$150 for two nights on the bay with kayaking. For around US$80 to US$90, you should get a worthwhile overnight cruise. We get many complaints about poor service, bad food and rats running around boats, but these tend to be on the ultra-budget tours. Spend a little more and enjoy the experience a whole lot more. In February 2011, a budget tour boat sank with the loss of 12 lives. Consequently, new regulations have been introduced to improve safety. Most tours include transport, meals and, sometimes, island hikes or kayaking. Drinks are extra. Boat tours are sometimes cancelled in bad weather – ascertain in advance what a refund will be. If you’ve got more time and want to experience Halong Bay without the crowds, consider heading to Cat Ba Island. From there, tour operators concentrate on Lan Ha Bay, which is relatively untouched and has sublime sandy beaches. See p 831 . For a list of reliable Hanoi-based tour outﬁ ts operating in Halong Bay, see p 823 . xe xe Cat

sunrise- h ve to six ﬁ NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL WAR MONUMENT WAR is a vitally im- (admission 30,000d, guide 30,000d, (admission 04-3935 1889; www. 1889; 04-3935

rst installed here by the dawn-dusk) dawn-dusk) % ﬁ (

(admission 20,000d; 20,000d; (admission h

Bai Tu LongBai NationalTu Park ve hours. A cheaper and more more and cheaper A hours. ve fi cially the world’s most endangered cially the world’s . Underground tunnels and gun em- . Underground ffi costs around 60,000d one-way. Fort Cannon To reach the national park headquar- To There’s excellent too, such as trekking There’s nitely a laid-back alternative to the tour- to alternative a laid-back nitely fi Le Pont Travel placements were in WWII. Japanese 60,000-170,000d; 60,000-170,000d; a very ( challenging 18km hike a guide, need hours) through the park. You’ll transport to the trailhead and a boat to return, all of which can be arranged in Cat Ba wa- trekking shoes, rainwear, Proper Town. ter and food are recommended. There are shorter trails that are less hardcore. get a QH public bus Trang, ters at Trung (15,000d, 20 minutes) from the hydrofoil at 5am, Buses leave docks at Cat Ba Town. a and 4pm. Alternatively, 11.10am 8.10am, portant ecosystem. Macaques, wild boar, wild boar, portant ecosystem. Macaques, civets, several species of squirrel (in- deer, squirrel) and morecluding the giant black including hawks, than 70 species of birds, hornbills and cuckoos, are all also present. om Fort Cannon Fort of the best views one in Vietnam, head For to The main habitat of the golden-headed langur (o Cat Ba National Park National Park Cat Ba 65 remaining), primate, with around Ba National Park National Ba sunset)

nd fi ISLANDS Hai Pie Pie Hai occasional ). Lan Ha Bay Ha Lan , which is blessed with spectacular limestone islands every islands every limestone with spectacular blessed which is , 831 er superb rock ers wonderful ff ff ) o 831 are directly and south -the-beaten-track appeal. -the-beaten-track ff to choose from, it’s easy to to choose from, it’s (also known as Tiger Beach), which is Lan Ha Bay Lan Ha Bay

Sights Hanoi travel agencies including Ethnic Travel (p 824 ) run trips into the Bai Tu Long Long Tu the Bai into ) run trips 824 (p Travel including Ethnic agencies travel Hanoi Charter boats can be arranged to Bai Tu Long Bay from Halong Bay; rates start at start rates Halong Bay; from Bay Long Tu Bai to arranged be can boats Charter exible alternative is to travel overland to Cai Rong and visit the outlying islands by boat boat the outlying islands by and visit Rong Cai to overland travel to is alternative exible DESTINATION Hanoi Haiphong COST (D) Mong Cai Lang Son 90,000 50,000 DURATION (HR) 90,000 120,000 FREQUENCY 3 1½ 4 5½ every 20 min every 15 min every 30 min 12.30pm

area. Another Hanoi contact for Bai Tu Long is Long Tu Bai for Hanoi contact Another area. ﬂ there. from bit as beautiful as its famous neighbour. It’s de It’s neighbour. famous as its bit as beautiful around 300,000d per hour, and the trip takes about and the trip takes per hour, 300,000d around isty hustle and bustle of Halong Bay. of and bustle hustle isty letponttravel.com; 102 P Ma May, Old Quarter). Ma May, P 102 letponttravel.com; The area immediately northeast of Halong Bay is part of of is part Bay Halong of northeast immediately The area (www.baitulongnationalpark.vn) BAI TU LONG BAY BUSES FROM HALONG BAY Blue Swimmer (p Sailing and kayak trips here are best org- Sailing and kayak In recent years Cat Ba Town has experi- Town recent years Cat Ba In your own private patch of sand for the day. your own private patch of sand for the day. on gorgeous Camping is permitted beaches The or so karst islands of 300 20,000d) (admission o 1 Beach sailing excursions in Lan Ha Bay at reason- sailing excursions Bay Lan in Ha able rates. The islands also o climbing, the main destination for and are trips run by Asia Outdoors (p full-moon parties. used as a base camp by the Cat Ba adventure -tour operators and even hosts east of Cat Ba Town. Geologically they are east of Cat Ba Town. shar- very Bay, much an extension of Halong ing the same emerald sea and limestone pinnacles, but with the additional attraction tour- of numerous white-sand beaches. Few ist boats venture here, so the islands have a more isolated, o With hundreds of anised in Cat Ba Town. enced a hotel boom, and a chain of ugly con- enced a hotel boom, and cretenow frames a once-lovely bay. hotels That is skin deep, as the rest said its ugliness alluring. are so Bay of the island and Lan Ha

NORTHERNSIGHTSCAT BA ISLAND VIETNAM

VIETNAM 830 831 Well-labelled paths guide visitors. The head for Lan Ha Bay. These longer trips by vistas out to a karst-punctuated sea are boat incorporate kayaking, beach stops and quite sublime, and it even has a terrifi c cafe exploring the amazing karst landscape. and juice bar. The entrance gate is a steep 10-minute Sailing & Kayaking walk or a 10,000d xe om ride from Cat Ba Sailing excursions on gorgeous Lan Ha Bay cost US$39 per person. Full-day trips on a VIETNAM Town. From the gate, a tourist train (40,000d) VIETNAM trundles the last part of the uphill journey, or Chinese junk to Long Chau lighthouse, built it’s another stiff 20-minute walk. by the French in the 1920s, are also possible. Plenty of hotels in Cat Ba Town rent kay- Hospital Cave WAR MONUMENT aks (per half-day around US$8), or rent bet- NORTHERNCAT VIETNAM BA ISLAND This cave (admission 15,000d; h7am-4.30pm) is ter kayaks (per day single/double US$12/20) ACTIVITIES an intriguing site. It was used as a (bomb- from Blue Swimmer. proof) secret hospital during the war in Guided overnight kayak tours by Blue Vietnam and as a safe house for VC lead- Swimmer (per person US$108) include Lan ers. This incredibly well-constructed three- Ha Bay, sea caves and camping on a deserted storey feat of engineering was in constant beach. use until 1975. A guide will show you around the 17 rooms, point out the old operating Trekking theatre, cinema and small swimming pool. Most of Cat Ba Island consists of protected It’s about 10km north of Cat Ba Town. tropical forest. For details of trekking routes see Cat Ba National Park. Asia Outdoors and Cat Co Beaches BEACHES Blue Swimmer both off er a great hike around The white-sand Cat Co beaches (called simply Cat Ba Island, taking in Butterfl y Valley. Cat Co 1, Cat Co 2 and Cat Co 3) are perfect places to lounge around for the day; however, T Tours Cat Co 1 and 3 have been taken over by big re- Tours of the island and boat trips around sorts. Luckily, Cat Co 2 is the most attractive Halong Bay are off ered by nearly every ho- beach, also off ering simple accommodation tel in Cat Ba, costing around US$20 for day and camping. The beaches are about 1km trips including kayaking and US$70 for two- from Cat Ba Town. day, one-night tours. We have received unfavourable feedback – 2 Activities cramped conditions and dodgy food – about Cat Ba is a superb base for adventure sports. some of these trips. The following adventure- tour operators understand travellers’ needs Mountain Biking and will steer you to really special areas of Cat Hotels can arrange Chinese mountain bikes Ba, Lan Ha Bay and beyond. (around US$4 per day), and Blue Swimmer rents Trek bikes for US$12 per day. Asia Outdoors ROCK CLIMBING One possible route traverses the heart of ( %368 8450; www.slopony.com; Noble House, the island, past Hospital Cave down to the Ð 1-4) Formerly called Slo Pony, this highly west coast’s mangroves and crab farms, and professional company is run by two uber- then in a loop back to Cat Ba Town past tidal passionate climbers and explorers. Climbing mud fl ats and deserted beaches. instruction is their real expertise, but they also off er excellent well-structured sailing, Rock Climbing biking and hiking trips. Rock up to their of- Cat Ba Island and Lan Ha Bay’s spectacular fi ce in Noble House at 6pm every night to limestone cliff s make for world-class rock see what’s planned. climbing amid stunning scenery. Asia Out- doors (formerly Slo Pony Adventures), who Blue Swimmer SAILING, KAYAKING pioneered climbing in Vietnam, use fully li- ( %369 6079; www.blueswimmersailing.com; 265 Ð censed and certifi ed instructors and remain Nui Ngoc) A very well-organised, environmen- the absolute authorities. Most climbers tally conscious outfi t off ering superb sailing in Cat Ba are complete novices, but as the and kayaking trips; trekking and biking ex- instruction is excellent, many leave Cat Ba cursions are also off ered. completely bitten by the bug. Full-day climbing trips including instruc- Cat Ba Ventures BOAT TRIPS, KAYAKING tion, transport, lunch and gear start at US$52 ( %388 8755, 849 124 67016; www.catbaventures. per person for Cat Ba Island, or US$75 if you com; 223 Ð 14) Locally owned and operated $ $ $ nd fi HOTEL HOTEL in ve star

ering a fi ff BUNGALOWS BUNGALOWS (30,000d). GUESTHOUSE O ) xe om On the sandy Located in the aW nal stage a bike fi xe om om xe (www.catba

ers great value. Nego- (per person 40,000d, 40,000d, (per person ﬀ

actually a local bus bus actually a local is that travels from the from that travels (www.catbaventures.com)

Cat Ba Ventures Eating & Drinking & Eating 265 7678; www.vietbungalow.com; Viet Hai vil- Viet www.vietbungalow.com; 265 7678; 388 8343; Ð 1-4; r US$8-12; r US$8-12; 388 8343; Ð 1-4; 8156; d 400,000d) 447 093 % % % oating seafood restaurants in Cat Ba or Ben a shower block and a cafe for meals (around 70,000d). At the time of writing, a resort was planned for Cat Co 2, so this may change. ride through lush scenery. Alternatively, Alternatively, ride through lush scenery. via a bamboo boat (200,000d) from travel and then a Cat Ba Town hamlet these simple concrete- of Viet Hai, aroundand-thatch bungalows are arrayed a stream on the edge of the forest. Arrival is an adventure, with the super-central seafront location, the recentlysuper-central seafront location, o refurbished Thu Ha with a balcony, tiate hard for a front room to sea views. up and wake beach at Cat Co 2, these bungalows are basic, thatched wooden buildings with a fan in leafy beachside plot. You’ll an attractive, lage; dm US$12 & d US$22-28) dm US$12 lage; 5 a memorable dining experience, try the For fl Beo harbours. A rowing boat there and back should cost 100,000d with waiting time; a will be 200,000d or so. Over- feast for two so work out meal charging is a possibility, AROUND CAT BA ISLAND Nature Whisper of ( Thu Ha ( Bungalows ( The guesthouse can also arrange transfers from Hanoi. $ $ $ $ Cat Ba Ventures HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL passenger and vehicle ferry Request a ) CAT BA ISLAND BA (WITHOUTCAT THE HASSLE) aW It’s a good choice, a good It’s ) Family-owned place Family-owned ) 35,000d.) You can then catch a QH Green bus (departures at 6am, at 6am, bus (departures QH Green a then catch can You 35,000d.) aiW aW A recent addition, this place (hotpot) meals. ) do include it. xe om lau ering excellentto boat trips ff HALONG BAY TO TO HALONG BAY aiW on the hr 5am-5pm May-Sep & 8am, 11.10am & 3pm Oct-Apr) 11.10am & 8am, on the hr 5am-5pm May-Sep h Sleeping Many boat owners in Halong Bay are part of the scam, so check if onward transport transport check if onward so the scam, of part are in Halong Bay owners boat Many An alternative route is taking the is taking route An alternative To travel in the other direction, contact contact direction, in the other travel To Tourist boats (US$8, four hours) depart from Halong Bay around 1pm for Cat Ba for 1pm around Halong Bay from depart hours) four (US$8, boats Tourist 388 8605; Ð 1-4; r US$8-12; r US$8-12; 388 8605; Ð 1-4; 388 8555; www.viendong-hotel.com.vn; 225 Ð 388 8555; www.viendong-hotel.com.vn; 388 8783; www.catbatravelservice.com; 210 Ð 210 www.catbatravelservice.com; 388 8783; 388 8274; www.catbadream.com.vn; 226 Ð 1-4; r 226 Ð 1-4; www.catbadream.com.vn; 388 8274; 9.30am, 1.10pm, 4pm & 5pm for 15,000d) to Cat Ba Town. Cat Ba to 15,000d) 4pm & 5pm for 1.10pm, 9.30am, ventures.com) operators frequently demand up to US$50 for the ride. There There the ride. for US$50 demand up to frequently operators Island, but they dock at Gia Luan (40km from Cat Ba Town) and local taxi and taxi and local Town) Cat Ba from (40km dock at Gia Luan but they Island, Warning! Travelling from Halong City to Cat Ba Island can be fraught with hassles. be fraught can Cat Ba Island to City Halong from Travelling Warning! (15,000d) – the QH Green Bus – at 5pm, but this usually departs just before the boats the boats before just departs but this usually Bus – at 5pm, – the QH Green (15,000d) that… Funny arrive. including operators Some included. is Town Cat Ba to 1hr; Cat Ba Town for the latest information. the latest for Town Cat Ba resort island of Tuan Chau to Gia Luan. (A taxi from Halong City to Tuan Chau is around Chau is around Tuan to Halong City from taxi (A Gia Luan. Chau to Tuan island of resort 130,000d, % % % % uctuate high-season sum- greatly between with sterling views of the bay, well-kept and well-kept with sterling views of the bay, spacious rooms, and a good grasp of English at reception. Nui Ngoc; r US$12-15; r US$12-15; Nui Ngoc; 1-4 178; r US$8-15; r US$8-15; 178; 1-4 room at the front of this hotel, which sits right in the middle of the seafront strip and The has balconies overlooking the harbour. English-speaking owner is helpful. US$10-15; US$10-15; with simple, but colourfully furnished but rooms; those at the back are quieter, lack windows. The restaurant of- downstairs fers seafood ( Phong Lan Hotel Phong Lan Hotel ( Vien Dong Dong Vien ( Cat Ba Dream Dream Cat Ba Duc Tuan Hotel Tuan Duc ( CAT BA TOWN mertime and the slower winter months. The following are low-season prices. Most hotels are in Cat Ba Town. Room rates Room Ba Town. hotels are in Cat Most fl company o company kayaking, and hiking. Bay, Halong 4 has perfunctory service, but if you can angle for a seafront room, you’ll a cinematic have scroll of Cat Ba action in front of you. right

NORTHERNSLEEPINGCAT BA ISLAND VIETNAM

VIETNAM 832 833 prices beforehand. All the following places 8 Information are in Cat Ba Town: Agribank There’s branch 1km north of town for changing dollars, and an ATM on the o Bamboo Café VIETNAMESE $ harbourfront. (Ð 1-4; dishes 80,000-120,000d) The best option Internet cafes There are several internet cafes for a casual bite on the seafront, this enjoy- on Cat Ba’s seafront. VIETNAM able little place has a small harbour-facing Main post office (Ð 1-4) Also on the Cat Ba VIETNAM terrace and an intimate bamboo-walled in- seafront. terior. The genial owner is a fl uent English Vu Binh Jewellers By the market. Cashes speaker and serves up generous portions travellers cheques at 3% commission and does credit-card cash advances at 5%. NORTHERNCAT VIETNAM BA ISLAND of Vietnamese and international food. The 8 beer is super-cold and there’s wine available by the glass. 8 Getting There & Away Cat Ba Island is 45km east of Haiphong and Vien Duong VIETNAMESE $$ 30km south of Halong City. Various boat and (12 Ð Nui Ngoc; meals from 100,000d) Of the sea- bus combinations make the journey, starting in food spots lining Ð Nui Ngoc, Vien Duong is either Hanoi or Haiphong. It’s possible to travel among the most popular. It’s often heaving by boat from Halong City to Cat Ba Island, but it with Vietnamese domestic tourists diving is a journey often blighted by scams (p832 ). into local crab, squid and steaming seafood hotpots. To/From Hanoi The easiest way to/from Hanoi is via the city’s Family Bakery BAKERY $ Luong Yen bus station (Map p 812 ). Here Hoang (196 Ð 1-4; dishes 80,000-120,000d; h7am-4pm) Long (%031-268 8008) off er a combined bus- Friendly spot that opens early for goodies boat-bus ticket (210,000d, 4½ hours) straight like Turkish bread and almond pastries. Pop through to Cat Ba Town. Buses depart Hanoi in for a coff ee and a croissant. at 5.20am, 7.20am, 11.20am and 1.20pm, and return from Cat Ba Town at 7.15am, 9.15am, Thao May VIETNAMESE $ 1.15pm and 3.15pm. (18 Ð Nui Ngoc; mains 80,000-120,000d) Family- run spot that’s recommended by in-the- To/From Haiphong know expats for authentic local grub and Fast boats depart Haiphong’s Ben Binh harbour cheap beer. to Cat Ba’s Cai Vieng harbour at 7am and 10am. From there a bus takes passengers into Cat Ba On the seafront, two good places for a drink Town; this boat-bus combo takes around 90 minutes (130,000d). The other way, Haiphong- are Good Bar (Ð 1-4; W), which is a social HQ bound buses depart from the waterfront in Cat for travellers, with pool tables and a lively Ba Town at 2pm and 4pm. vibe, and the tiny, Kiwi-owned Flightless A second option to/from Haiphong is a bus W . Bird (Ð 1-4; ) from Ben Binh harbour in Haiphong to Dinh Vu

ISLAND ESCAPES

These two island resorts are on tiny islands close to Cat Ba Town. Nam Cat Island Resort ( %098 955 5773; [email protected]; d US$25-60; a) Enjoys a secluded cove location with simple bungalows, plus fl asher villas with private facilities. Spend your days swimming and kayaking, and kick back with seafood barbecues and beach bonfi res after dark. Cat Ba Ventures uses this as a base on its tours. Monkey Island Resort ( %04-3926 0572; www.monkeyislandresort.com; d US$40-60; a) There’s a nice social vibe at Monkey Island, with a nightly seafood buff et, cool R&B beats and volleyball. Accommodation is in comfortable private bungalows, and there are kayaks for hire. Free transfers from Cat Ba Town are off ered. The eponymous primates lurk close by on a karst peak. $ $$ PAGODA HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL 7-11am & 1.30- 7-11am h This modern ) Excellent value ) aW aW or 30,000d in a taxi. The in a taxi. or 30,000d (beer) joints. For more stylish (beer) joints. For xe om Founded three centuries ago and three Founded bia hoi Eating & Drinking & Eating Sleeping 384 2409; www.hoaviethotel.vn; 50 P Dien Bien 50 P www.hoaviethotel.vn; 384 2409; 374 6468; [email protected]; 103 P Dien P 103 6468; [email protected]; 374 % % rebuilt several has times since, this pagoda architectural look Khmer. elements that in central Haiphong, with simply furnished with simply in central Haiphong, a courtyardrooms arranged around in a restored colonial building. Rates include breakfast. 5.50pm) 5.50pm) Phu; r 250,000-400,000d; Bien Phu; r from US$25; US$25; Bien Phu; r from Hoa Viet Viet Hotel Hoa ( 5 is noted for fresh seafood; P Haiphong has point-and-cook tanks as Quang Trung well as along a wander cafes and restaurants, take Khai. P Minh Du Hang Pagoda Pagoda Hang Du Chua Hang; Hang; 121 P Du (Chua 4 Hotel Monaco ( colonial building, the Haiphong Museum Museum building, colonial the Haiphong Some dis- history. city’s on the concentrates translations. English have plays and central hotel has a real polish about it,and central hotel has a Spacious, spot- including the smart lobby. double beds, andless rooms come with two breakfast is included. MUSEUM In a splendid In Haiphong has Haiphong Youyi Guan This is the most popular border crossing. The border post itself itself post The border crossing. popular border This is the most 8am-12.30pm & 2-4pm 8am-12.30pm h Dongxing Open 24 hours. Visas must be arranged in advance. be arranged must Visas hours. 24 Open TO CHINA: THE NORTHEAST BORDERS On the Chinese side, it’s a 20-minute drive from the border to Pingxiang by by Pingxiang to the border from drive a 20-minute it’s side, the Chinese On (20,000d) to the border. to (20,000d)

Sights & Activities Haiphong Museum Haiphong Museum For more information on these cross-border trains, see p 905 . 905 p see trains, cross-border on these information more For International trains that run direct from Hanoi to Nanning and Beijing also pass through through pass also Nanning and Beijing Hanoi to from that run direct trains International A better option is to catch a bus from Hanoi to Dong Dang (130,000d, 3¼ hours) and 3¼ hours) (130,000d, Dang Dong to Hanoi a bus from catch is to option better A Getting Around Getting xe om

At the border At on Moving Nanning. and bus to train by is connected Pingxiang taxi. bus or shared this border, but it’s not possible to jump aboard these services in Lang Son or Dong Dang. or Dong in Lang Son services these jump aboard to possible not but it’s this border, Mong Cai and Dongxing straddle the Chinese border in the extreme northeastern corner of corner northeastern extreme in the border Chinese the straddle Cai and Dongxing Mong the border about 3km between It’s foreigners. by used is rarely but this crossing Vietnam, on a 15,000d around pay aim to and Mong Cai bus station; Mong Cai to in advance. be arranged must 7pm daily and visas 7am to is open from crossing border a is at Huu Nghi Quan (Friendship Gate), 3km north of Dong Dang. Three trains link Hanoi link trains Three Dang. Dong 3km north of Gate), (Friendship is at Huu Nghi Quan slow. very are daily but these Dang) Dong of (south and Lang Son There are two borders in northeast Vietnam where foreigners can cross into China. into cross can foreigners where Vietnam in northeast borders two are There Huu Nghi Quan to to the border Getting GETTING 031 / POP 1.67 MILLION Motorbike rentals (withor without driver) are Mon-Fri, 7.30-9.30pm Wed & Sun) Wed 7.30-9.30pm Mon-Fri, (66 P Dien Bien Phu; Dien Bien (66 P F 1 % third-largest city, Vietnam’s Haiphong and its verdant tree-lined a graceful air, boulevards conceal some classic colonial-era an important seaport, indus- structures. It’s trial centre and transport hub, but very few visitors linger long. available from most of the hotels from US$5 per If headingday. you’re to the beaches or national park, pay the fee for guarded parking to ensure your bike isn’t stolen. Rented bicycles are a good way to explore the island. 8 port. A fast boat then skips across Cai to Vieng on Cat Ba, and another bus then continues into Cat Ba The Town. journey takes around two hours (150,000d). Buses departBen Binh at 6.40am, 8.15am, 9.45am, 1.40pm. 3.10pm & 4.35pm. Return buses from Cat Ba depart at 6.10am, 7.50am, 9.10am, 1.10pm, 2.50pm and 4.10pm.

NORTHERN8HAIPHONG VIETNAM

VIETNAM 834 835 Com Vietnam VIETNAMESE $ cave Puong Cave (Hang Puong) is about (4A P Hoang Van Thu; mains 30,000-80,000d) 30m high and 300m long. Diminutive, unpretentious restaurant that Park staff can organise tours, starting at hits the spot for its aff ordable local seafood about US$30 per day for solo travellers, less and Vietnamese specialities. for a group. Boat trips (hire around 550,000d) take around seven hours to take in most Phone Box BAR VIETNAM sights. The departure dock is about 2km VIETNAM (79 P Dien Bien Phu; hnoon-11.30pm) This tiny from park headquarters. bar is run by a musician and is a great place Other options include dugout-canoe tours for a relaxed drink, with live music (usually or combination cycling, boating and walk- acoustic) on Monday and Friday. ing possibilities. Longer treks can also be NORTHERNBA VIETNAM BE NATIONAL PARK 8 arranged. 8 Information An optional guide, worth considering, There are internet cafes on P Dien Bien Phu; costs US$12 per day. many cafes have free wi-fi . ATMs dot the city centre. 4 Sleeping & Eating Haiphong International Hospital (%395 There are two accommodation options not 5888; 124 Nguyen Duc Canh) Newly built and far from the park headquarters. modern, with some English-speaking doctors. Park Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE 8 Getting There & Away ( %389 4026) This is fi ne, if a little over- priced. It includes semi-detached bungalows Vietnam Airlines (%381 0890; www.vietnam air.com.vn; 30 P Hoang Van Thu) has fl ights to (350,000d) and rooms (220,000d) that are HCMC and Danang. Jetstar Pacifi c (www.jet fairly basic. Meals (from 50,000d) are availa- star.com) has fl ights to HCMC. ble here – place your order a few hours ahead. For boat connections to Cat Ba, see p 833 . Stilt house homestays HOMESTAYS Buses for Hanoi (70,000d, two hours) leave (per person 70,000d) Homestays are available from the Tam Bac bus station (P Tam Bac), 4km in Pac Ngoi village on the lakeshore; the from the waterfront. Buses heading to points park offi ce can help organise this. Meals cost south, including Ninh Binh (90,000d, 3½ hours, every 30 minutes), leave from Niem Nghia bus 40,000d to 60,000d. Only cash is accepted station (Ð Tran Nguyen Han). Lac Long bus sta- and the nearest ATM and internet access are tion (P Cu Chinh Lan) has buses to Halong City in Cho Ra. (50,000d, 1½ hours). There are four trains a day to Hanoi (48,000- 8 Getting There & Around 60,000d, two to three hours) from Haiphong Ba Be National Park is 240km from Hanoi and train station (Ð Pham Ngu Lao). 18km from Cho Ra. Most visitors get here by chartered vehicle from Hanoi (six hours) or on a tour. Ba Be National Park By public transport, the most direct route is on % 0281 / ELEV 145M a daily bus at noon from the Gia Lam bus station Boasting mountains high, rivers deep, and in Hanoi to Cho Ra (150,000d, six hours). Over- waterfalls, lakes and caves, Ba Be National night in Cho Ra before continuing on to Ba Be by Park (%389 4014; www.babenationalpark.org; ad- boat (or motorbike taxi) the following morning. mission per person 20,000d) is an incredibly scenic spot. The region is surrounded by steep peaks (up to 1554m) while the park contains Mai Chau tropical rainforest with more than 400 plant % 0218 / POP 47,500 species. Wildlife in the forest includes bears, In an idyllic valley, Mai Chau is surrounded monkeys, bats and lots of butterfl ies. Sur- by lush paddy fi elds and the rural sound- rounding the park are Tay minority villages. track is defi ned by gurgling irrigation Ba Be (Three Bays) is in fact three linked streams and birdsong. lakes, with a total length of 8km and a width Dozens of local families have signed up to of about 400m. The Nang River is navigable a highly successful homestay initiative, and for 23km between a point 4km above Cho for visitors the chance to sleep in a traditional Ra and the Dau Dang Waterfall (Thac Dau stilt house is a real appeal – though note that Dang), which is a series of spectacular cas- the villages are on the tour-group agenda. If cades between sheer walls of rock. The river you’re looking for hardcore exploration, this nd 383 fi % ( Ba Ba

dent fi Son Son Lao lies Cai lling meals fi charge 20,000d. charge is one option, ) xe om aW . Next is a stop in is a stop Next . . and the nearby lakes of of lakes and the nearby ff north of the far into the trail ff Terminus Hotel & Restaurant Getting There & Around Getting There Around & around Mai Chau and hitting the around Cao Bang Cao With Sapa just up the mountain, there’s mountain, there’s With Sapa just up the There are ATMs next station, to the train There are ATMs 020 / POP 46,700 Dien Bien Phu Bien Dien plenty of inexpensive the sta- hotels around plenty tion. with clean, tidy rooms and with clean, tidy rooms available. plus internetclose by. cafes but you’ll the night, no need to stay 8 Nine daily buses (240,000d, nine hours) ply the Hanoi–Lao Cai route, but virtually everyone prefers the train. Minibuses for Sapa (40,000d, 8 Direct buses to Mai Chau leave Hanoi’s My Dinh bus station regularly from 6am to 2pm (80,000d, 3¾ hours).Alternatively, catch a regular Son La or Dien Bien Phu bus Dau to Tong junction (80,000d, 3½ hours). From the junction it’s another 5km to Mai Chau; Lao Cai % to the north, One of the gateways 3km from the Chi-at the end of the train line, The but is a town has no sights nese border. journeying betweenmajor hub for travellers of Kunming. Sapa and the Chinese city Hanoi, 5470; 342 P Nguyen Hue; r 200,000-300,000d, r 200,000-300,000d, Hue; Nguyen P 342 5470; 20,000-45,000d; meals , the queen of the mountains, then west via via then west the mountains, the queen of , ll up, and take o and take ll up, fi

eld of of eld Xa fi ve- (per eld fi fi

Sapa to mi- in the trek Lac village Lac White Thai villages , heading to to heading , elds and elds rst as some families fi fi (p 835 ). 835 (p Thai stilt houses stilt Thai ts the bill nicely. Lao Cai fi nd a bed; there’s always nd a bed; there’s fi past rice past rice or the beautiful northeast province of of province northeast or the beautiful , near a mountain pass (eleva-, near a mountain too. bikes rental er quality ff walk

Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping Sights & Activities , before dropping into the into dropping before , One of the most popular routes is the ‘Northwest Loop’, which follows Hwy 6 through Hwy 6 through follows which Loop’, ‘Northwest is the popular routes the most of One Some companies also specialise in taking bikers right o in taking bikers specialise also companies Some It’s certainly possible to organise a motorcycling trip on your own. Northwest Loop Loop Northwest own. trip on your a motorcycling organise to possible certainly It’s Minsks used to be the bike of choice, but many now favour more reliable Japanese Japanese reliable more favour now but many choice, of be the bike to used Minsks

the heart of the Tonkinese Alps. There are many variations, but the standard route in- route but the standard variations, many are There Alps. Tonkinese the of the heart in starting volves riding a motorbike yourself, it’s possible to hire someone to drive you. 4WD trips are also also are 4WD trips you. drive to someone hire to possible it’s yourself, riding a motorbike wheels is unrivalled. two on travelling of though the mobility recommended, Motorcycling in Vietnam’s wild northern territory is unforgettable. If you’re not con not If you’re is unforgettable. wild northern territory Vietnam’s in Motorcycling EXPLORING NORTH THE FAR Ha Giang Ha Be National Park National Be a spectacular road to the historic battle the historic to a spectacular road La highway (to hell) back to Hanoi. to hell) back (to highway roads are almost completely paved, though things can deteriorate in rainy season. Sign- season. in rainy deteriorate can though things paved, completely almost are roads a great Lao Cai is not north to long route The busy, map. bring a good so rare, are posts while you carriage a goods into bike your and load the strain take the train let so ride, pick it up, Then in Lao Cai, sleep in a berth. bikes. Daily hire rates for a quality bike range from US$20 to US$40 and are best or- best and are US$40 to US$20 from range bike a quality for rates hire Daily bikes. of most operators, tour motorbike recommended for 906 Check out p in Hanoi. ganised whom o Most people eat where they stay. Estab- people eat where they stay. Most Many travel agencies in Hanoi run inex- agencies in Hanoi travel Many A popular 18km trek is from A popular 18km minute stroll apart. It’s perfectly feasible tominute stroll apart. It’s just pitch up and run- electricity, have space. All homestays mosquito nets hot showers, and ning water, roll-up mattresses. lish the price of meals Warning: charge up to 150,000d for dinner. cheesy song-and-dance routines follow dinner at some places. Linh village Linh villages of Lac or Pom Coong, a just villages of LacPom or (Ban Lac) in Mai Chau to the H’mong Chauthe H’mong to (Ban Lac) in Mai Most visitors stay in visitors stay Most 4 1 can You is not the place, but for biking, but for place, the is not and re- hiking Chau Mai laxation, person incl breakfast around 150,000d) around incl breakfast person tion 1000m) on Hwy 6. Thistion 1000m) in a takes trek and usually involves600m climb in altitude an overnight stay. Chau. pensive trips to Mai covers 7km to 8km; a local guide costs about 8km; a local guide costs covers 7km to bikes. also rent homestays Most US$10. nority villages. A typical trek further trek villages. A typical a nority

NORTHERNSIGHTSLAO CAI & ACTIVITIES VIETNAM

VIETNAM 836 837

GETTING TO CHINA: LAO CAI TO HEKOU

Getting to the border The Lao Cai-Hekou crossing connects northern Vietnam with Yunnan in China. The border is about 3km from Lao Cai train station; xe om charge 20,000d. At the border The border crossing is open from 7am to 10pm. Travellers have reported VIETNAM VIETNAM Chinese offi cials confi scating Lonely Planet China guides at this border, so you may want to try masking the cover. Visas must be arranged in advance. Moving on Trains no longer run from Hekou to Kunming, but there are several ‘sleeper’ NORTHERNBAC VIETNAM HA buses (Y150). One bus leaves at 7pm and arrives in Kunming around 7am, but there are SIGHTS earlier departures. You’ll need to have a pre-arranged visa for China. one hour) wait by the train station while services Can Cau market One of Vietnam’s most to Bac Ha (50,000d, 2½ hours) leave at 6am, exotic, this Saturday market is 20km north 7am, 10am, noon and 3pm from a terminal next of Bac Ha, just 9km south of the Chinese to the Red River bridge. border. Rail tickets to Hanoi (8½ to 11 hours) start Coc Ly market Takes place on Tuesdays, at 110,000d for a hard seat (bad choice) to 450,000d for an air-con soft sleeper, and rise about 35km from Bac Ha. There’s a pretty by about 10% at weekends. There are three good road, or you can go by road and night trains and two day trains in either river; ask at hotels in Bac Ha. direction. Lung Phin market Between Can Cau market and Bac Ha, about 12km from the town. It’s less busy, and operates on Sundays. Bac Ha % 020 / POP 7400 2 Activities An unhurried and friendly town, Bac Ha There’s great hiking to hill-tribe villages makes a relaxed base to explore the north- around Bac Ha. The Flower H’mong village of ern highlands and hill-tribe villages. The Ban Pho is one of the nearest to town. Other atmosphere is very diff erent from Sapa, and nearby villages include Trieu Cai, an 8km re- you can walk the streets freely without being turn walk, and Na Ang, a 6km return walk; accosted by hawkers. The climate here is it’s best to set up a trip with a local guide. also noticeably warmer than in Sapa. Tour guides in Bac Ha can arrange visits Bac Ha has a certain charm, though its to rural schools as part of a motorbike or stock of traditional old adobe houses is trekking day-trip. There’s also a waterfall dwindling and being replaced by concrete near Thai Giang Pho village, about 12km structures. Wood smoke fi lls the morning air east of Bac Ha, which has a pool big enough and chickens and pigs poke around the back for swimming. lanes. For six days a week Bac Ha slumbers, Take a peek at the website www.bacha but its lanes fi ll up to choking point each tourist.com for inspiration; it’s operated by Sunday when tourists and Flower H’mong English-speaking Mr Nghe (091-200 5952; fl ood in for the weekly market. [email protected]), Bac Ha’s one-man tourism dynamo. All hotels recommended 1 Sights below off er excursions too. Bac Ha’s Sunday market is a riot of colour and commerce. The ruou corn hooch pro- 4 Sleeping & Eating duced by the Flower H’mong is so potent it Room rates increase on weekends; weekday can ignite; there’s an entire area devoted to rates are quoted here. it at the Sunday market. While you’re here, check out the outlandish Hoang Vu Hotel HOTEL $ Vua Meo (‘Cat King’ House; admission free; h8am- ( %388 0264; r from US$8) Number one for 5.30pm), a palace constructed in a kind of budget travellers in town. It’s nothing fan- bizarre ‘oriental baroque’ architectural style. cy, but the large spacious rooms are good Beyond town lie several interesting value, with TV and fan. Mr Nghe is based markets: here. Tram (Silver , which at ll the town fi Sapa overlooks a Thac Bac Thac Fansipan (Cloud Bridge), which Cau May Cau ; the pretty ; the pretty Sights & Activities Getting There Away & experienced renaissance – the a recent The town’s colonial villas fell into dis- colonial villas fell into The town’s cultural is in this prosperity Inherent Sapa is known for its cold, foggy Sapa is known for its cold, winters 020 / POP 36,200 / ELEV 1650M A motorbike/taxi Lao to Cai costs US$20/60, Car & Motorbike spans the Muong Hoa River. Hoa spans the Muong 3143m is Vietnam’s highest peak. The highest trek is Vietnam’s 3143m from Sapa to the summit and back can take Some of the better-knownseveral days. sights around Sapa include the epic Falls); and Falls); 1 Lien Surrounding Sapa are the Hoang including Mountains, (down to 0°C). The dry season for Sapa is – to the end of June approximately January afternoon rain showers in the mountains are frequent. repair during successive wars, but Sapa has downside of which is a hotel-building boom. have change for the hill-tribe people. Many a good com- formal education but have little mand of several languages, and are canny (and persistent) traders, urging you to buy handicrafts. 8 Tours Bac to Ha from Sapa cost from US$15 per person; on the way back you can bail out in Lao Cai and catch thetrain back to Hanoi. US$25/75. Sapa to or Sapa % on a steep slope, Perched with colour. plunging valley of cascading rice terraces, above the townwith mountains towering hill station as a French on all sides. Founded tourist destina- in 1922, Sapa is the premier tion in northern Vietnam. Views of this epic scenery are often roll- subdued by thick mist cloudy, evening across the peaks, but if it’s place, especiallySapa is still a fascinating when local hill-tribe people Ton Pass $ $$ $$ will will HOTEL HOTEL

ce ffi Agribank VIETNAMESE, BAR BAR VIETNAMESE, HOTEL, RESTAURANT RESTAURANT HOTEL, Boasts attractive ) A friendly place above Bar-restaurant with a ) aW aiW s and ankle fabrics are also also are s and ankle fabrics tourist information o ff nd a nd oor-to-ceiling windows overlookingoor-to-ceiling windows fi fl

Information DESTINATION Hanoi COST (D)Lao Cai 400,00060,000 DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY 112½ 8pm 2pm 1pm, noon, 8am, 6am,

388 0254; www.congfuhotel.com; 152 Ngoc 152 Ngoc www.congfuhotel.com; 388 0254; 388 0231; www.nganngabacha.com; 133 Ngoc 133 www.nganngabacha.com; 388 0231; 7.30-11.30am & 1.30-5pm) at the Vua Meo BUSES FROM HA BAC Flower H’mong women wear several several wear women H’mong Flower in- These dazzling clothing. of layers collar-cum-shawl clude an elaborate neck and an pinned at the that’s of made are both garment; apron-style multicoloured of strips tightly woven Highly edge. with a frilly often fabric, cu ornate FLOWER POWER FLOWER as is a checked their costume, of part electric pink or lime (often headscarf green). You’ll % % h ( Uyen; r US$30; r US$30; Uyen; Uyen; r US$25-35d; r US$25-35d; Uyen; a popular restaurant that does a roaringa popular restaurant that new hotpots. Its rooms aretrade in tasty spotless and quiet, and some are almost ri- diculously roomy.

and internet access next to the Hoang Hotel, Vu also home base for the irrepressible Mr Nghe.

8 There’s in no Bac ATM Ha, but the (mains 40,000-80,000d) cash dollars and the Sao Mai Hotel will change other currencies. Hoang Yen Yen Hoang ( Congfu Hotel Hotel Congfu Ngan Nga Gia Huy Nga Ngan ( rooms demonstrating a notable absence of bed linen, and some quality chintz. All have enjoy a good restaurant market. There’s Bac Ha (meals from 40,000d) here too. well-priced menu of good breakfast options, robust rice and noodle dishes, and tasty pumpkin soup. Cheap and Dalat wine beer are both available.

NORTHERN8SAPA VIETNAM

VIETNAM 838 839 Treks can be arranged at many guest- rooms in a friendly, family-owned guesthouses and travel agencies (see p840 ); the house a short stroll from the hubbub of following are H’mong owned: downtown Sapa. The misty valley view from the front balconies is quite superb. Sapa O’Chau HIKING ( %091-535 1479; www.sapaochau.com) Profi ts Cat Cat View Hotel HOTEL $$ from this tour agency provide training to ( %387 1946; www.catcathotel.com; 1 Ð Phan Xi VIETNAM VIETNAM H’mong children in a learning centre. Excel- Pang; r US$10-90; iW) This is a midrange ho- lent day walks, longer homestay treks, and tel with good pine-trimmed budget rooms Fanispan hikes are off ered. Volunteers are that represent great value. Or treat yourself welcome. to a splurge. NORTHERNSAPA VIETNAM SLEEPING Sapa Sisters HIKING Pinocchio Hotel HOTEL $ ( %097-621 6140; www.sapasisters.webs.com) Day ( %387 1876; www.pinocchiohotel.com; 15 Ð Muong treks, two- to three-day village homestays, Hoa; r US$15-20; i) The friendly staff who or ascents of Fanispan. Excellent English run this excellent guesthouse really make it is spoken, and some French, Spanish and tick. Rooms have simple but attractive decor, Japanese. some with impressive views.

4 Sleeping S Baguette & Chocolat GUESTHOUSE $ Luong Thuy Family Guesthouse GUESTHOUSE $ ( %387 1766; www.hoasuaschool.com; Ð Thac ( %387 2310; www.familysapa.com; 028 Ð Muong Bac; r US$22; W) Operated by Hoa Sua (a Hoa; r US$10-15; iW) Simple and spotless group helping disadvantaged youth), this four-roomed place has style and an excellent French cafe. Rates include a great e# 0100m Sapa 00.05milesbreakfast. A B Sapa Hostel GUESTHOUSE $ ( %387 3073; www.sapahostel.com; 9 & 33 Ð Phan Xi Pang; dm/s/d/tr US$5/12/15/18; iW) Spacious 1 1 rooms in two locations that have a laid-back 14 ›# ng travellers’ vibe. #ì Ro 16 m # a H

n Ð ie Sapa V ò# n acB a ÿ h a u Sleeping 66Ð T c XPark #ú 6 Ð Baguette & Chocolat...... (see 6) Sapa #ï Sapa 1 Casablanca Sapa Hotel...... B3 2 Tourism Ü# Church 2 2 Cat Cat View Hotel...... A3 Square ›# n 3 Luong Thuy Family Guesthouse...... B4 a g 15 h n P a 4 Pinocchio Hotel...... B4 Ð P #ú9 i # 66X Duc Minh 5 Sapa Hostel ...... A3 #ú 10 inh#æ e T ú Eating Tu Sapa #ú Ð Market 6 Baguette & Chocolat...... A2 11 #ú 12 R g Ham Rong n P 7 Delta Restaurant...... B3 2 a C Mountain P a i ÿ# 3 ÿ# 5 u 3 8 Nature View ...... A3 X M n a a 9 Night Market Stalls...... B2 y h Ð P D 10 Restaurants...... A3 Ð#ú 8 o 1 #ú 7 n ÿ# 11 Sapa Rooms ...... A3 g #ì#û 13 L oi 12 Viet Emotion...... B3 # ÿ# 4 ‚ Handspan û Drinking Travel a To Cat Cat o Village (3km) H 13 Mountain Bar & Pub ...... B3 3 ÿ# 4 4 ï Transport Muong Ð 14 Bus Station ...... B1 15 Minibuses to Lao Cai...... B2 16 Railway Booking Office ...... B1 A B $$ , BAR fi xe ITALIAN ITALIAN 7.30-11.30am 7.30-11.30am 387 2110; 2110; 387 h % ( Renowned for its (water pipes) and ultra- (water 387 3239; www.sapa (Ð Ham Rong) Ham (Ð % Dangerously strong cocktails, ( 387 1881; www.ducminhtravel.vn; shisha % ( Drinking Getting There & Away Information (Ð Ngu Chi Son) Has an exchanges ATM, SOP HUN SOP A minibus to Bac Ha for the Sunday market is cold beer, cold beer, competitive football feature at games of table this bar. -tourism.com; 103 Ð Xuan Vien; 8 The gateway to Sapa is Lao Cai, 38km away to the west. Minibuses (40,000d, one hour) make the trip regularlyuntil mid-afternoon. around US$15 per person; departure from Sapa is at 6am and from Bac Ha at 1pm. It’s cheaper to go by public minibus, changing in Lao Cai. A daily bus leaves at 7.30am for Dien Bien Phu (P Cau May; mains US$7-12) Cau May; (P 6 & Pub Mountain Bar (2 Ð Muong Hoa) 8 Internet access, including complimentary wi- Delta Restaurant Restaurant Delta is available at hotels, restaurants and cafes town. around BIDV travellers cheques and cash. Minh Duc & 1.30-5pm) Helpful English-speaking staff weather and trekking transport, offering information. www.handspan.com; Chau Long Hotel, 24 Dong Dong 24 Hotel, Long Chau www.handspan.com; OffersLoi) mountain-biking and trekking tours to villages and markets. office post Main Tourism Sapa 10 P Cau May) Friendly English-speaking opera- English-speaking Friendly May) Cau P 10 tor organising transport and treks. Indochina Travel Handspan pizzas, the most authentic in town, plus pret-pizzas, the most authentic too. decent pasta ty $ $ $ $$ c $$ fi tar- CAFE CAFE CAFE CAFE HOTEL HOTEL Newish south of VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE amboyantly fl MEDITERRANEAN MEDITERRANEAN ered too. ered ff A TAY TRANG TO TAY (barbecued pork). The Tay Trang-Sop Hun border crossing is 34km from Dien is 34km from crossing border Hun Trang-Sop Tay The Good-valuerooms ) W Fine breakfasts, ) border border bun cha v Open daily from 7am to 5pm. 7am to daily from Open uent English. uent fl avours and a great set lunch.avours Muang May has basic guesthouses and onward travel options to Muang to options travel and onward guesthouses basic has Muang May night-market stalls night-market fl ering a good mix of Vietnamese ff Stylish bistro that features a cosy bistro that features Stylish

Eating from DBP to the border at Tay Trang for around 200,000d, but you’ll probably then probably but you’ll 200,000d, around for Trang Tay at border the to DBP from baguettes, cakes, salads, pasta and cakes, baguettes, See p 339 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. in the other this border on crossing information for 339 p See Baguette & Chocolat & Chocolat Baguette

387 2667; www.sapacasablanca.com; Ð Dong www.sapacasablanca.com; 2667; 387 GETTING TO LAOS: om Muang May. to transport for Lao village the nearest 5km to walk to have the border At kip. or Lao dollars cash have you sure but make Khua, Moving on Moving Getting to the to the Getting for 5.30am daily at DBP leave eight hours) to seven (148,000d, Buses (DBP). Bien Phu The journey can. if you travelling prior to the day ticket your Book in Laos. Muang Khua a hire to possible It’s formalities. border and on the roads depending longer take can Vietnamese-style hotpot is a very popular and terri best pizzas ers some of Sapa’s ff % replace, and, if the weather really sets in sh ’n’ chips), or just a pot of tea and a piece sh ’n’ fruit smoothies. the church serve Loi; s/d/tr US$17/20/25; US$17/20/25; s/d/tr Loi; opening o and Western O there are books, magazines and board games. fi decorated cafe that’s great for a snack (think decorated cafe that’s meal (try baguette), the or a BLT corn fritters fi Cookeryof cake. classes are o (www.vietemotion.com; 27 P Cau May; meals 70,000- meals Cau May; P 27 (www.vietemotion.com; 150,000d) Viet Emotion Emotion Viet (Ð Phan Xi Pang; meals from 60,000d) 60,000d) from meals Xi Pang; (Ð Phan Nature View View Nature

(Ð Thac Bac; cakes from 20,000d, snacks & meals snacks 20,000d, from Thac Bac; cakes (Ð 70,000-160,000d; S (www.saparooms.com; Ð Phan Xi Pang; snacks Xi Pang; Ð Phan (www.saparooms.com; 90,000d) around meals 50,000d, Sapa Rooms Rooms Sapa

For eating on a tight budget, cheap Viet- For below thenamese restaurants huddle market,and 5 Casablanca Sapa Hotel Hotel Sapa Casablanca ( Kien, the attentive in a central location. Mr speaks owner, tines, Asian and Vietnamese served dishes are in elegant premises. local dish; try the area just south of the bus station.

NORTHERNEATINGSAPA VIETNAM

VIETNAM 840 841 (170,000d, eight hours) and there are regular 4 Sleeping & Eating buses for Lai Chau (70,000d, 6am to 4pm). For a cheap bite, check out the pho stalls and There is an oﬃ cial Railway Booking Oﬃ ce simple restaurants opposite the bus station. (Ð Xuan Vien; h7.30-11am & 1.30-4pm), which Bia hoi gardens on Ð Hoang Van are ideal charges a small commission. For more informa- for a local brew or two. tion on trains to Hanoi, see Lao Cai (p 836 ). VIETNAM Viet Hoang Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ VIETNAM 8 Getting Around ( %373 5046; 67 Ð Tran Dang Ninh; s/d Downtown Sapa can be walked in 20 minutes. 100,000/120,000d; aiW) Opposite the bus For excursions further out, you can hire a motor- station, this friendly guesthouse has small, bike for US$5 to US$10 per day, or take one with neat rooms. Owner Mr Duc and his family NORTHERNDIEN BIEN VIETNAM PHU a driver from US$12. are very hospitable. 8

Binh Long Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ Dien Bien Phu ( %382 4345; 429 Ð Muong Thanh; d & tw US$10; aW) Another small, friendly family-run % 0230 / POP 72,700 On 7 May 1954 French colonial forces were place, but on a busy junction. Off ers neat, tidy defeated by the Viet Minh in a decisive bat- twin rooms and transport info. tle at Dien Bien Phu (DBP), and the days of Lien Tuoi Restaurant VIETNAMESE $ their Indochine empire were numbered. (Ð Hoang Van Thai; mains 60,000-90,000d) Previously just a minor settlement, DBP Famous for its fi lling Vietnamese and only became a provincial capital in 2004. Chinese food. Boulevards and civic buildings have been constructed and the airport now has daily 8 Information fl ights from Hanoi. With the nearby Lao border now open to foreigners, many travel- Internet cafes are on Ð Hoang Van Thai. lers are passing through the city. Agribank (Ð 7-5) ATM and changes US dollars. Main post office (Ð 7-5) 1 Sights Dien Bien Phu Museum MUSEUM 8 Getting There & Away (Ð 7-5; admission 5000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5pm) Air Commemorating the 1954 battle, this Vietnam Airlines (%382 4948; www.vietnam well-laid-out museum features an eclectic airlines.com; Nguyen Huu Tho) Operates two collection of weaponry and plenty of photo- fl ights daily between DBP and Hanoi. The offi ce graphs and documents, some with English is near the airport, about 1.5km from the town translations. centre, along the road to Muong Lay. Car & Motorbike Bunker Headquarters WAR MEMORIAL (admission 3000d; h7-11am & 1.30-5pm) Across The 480km drive from Hanoi to DBP on Hwys 6 the river, the command bunker of Colonel and 279 takes around 11 hours. Christian de Castries has been re-created.

GETTING TO LAOS: CAU TREO TO NAM PHAO

Getting to the border The Cau Treo–Nam Phao border crossing is 96km west of Vinh and about 30km east of Lak Sao in Laos. This border has a dodgy reputation with travellers, who report chronic overcharging and hassle on local buses (such as bus drivers ejecting foreigners in the middle of nowhere unless they cough up extra bucks). If you do decide to travel step-by-step, local buses leave Vinh to Tay Son (formerly Trung Tam) regularly from 6am (70,000d, three hours). From Tay Son, it’s another 25km to the border. Morning buses to Lak Sao may be available, but if not, xe om ask for up to 150,000d for the ride. At the border The Cau Treo–Nam Phao border crossing is open from 7am to 4.30pm. Moving on On the Laos side, a jumbo or sŏrngtăaou between the border and Lak Sao runs to about 45,000 kip (bargain hard). See p 353 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. has con- (admission (admission Hang Son

7am-5pm) h the reach alo until you ﬀ -limits, but things are are but things -limits, ﬀ (admission 120,000d; 120,000d; (admission

Phong Nha Cave (admission 50,000d; 50,000d; (admission

rst kilometre or so is open to visitors. visitors. is open to or so kilometre rst fi 054 / POP 286,400 PhongNha-Ke Bang National Park Hue % is the intellectual,cultural Hue and spir- and pagodas, itual heart of Vietnam. Palaces tombs and temples, culture and cuisine, no shortage history and heartbreak – there’s Nha and numerous nature reservesNha and numerous nature and the appeal is overwhelming. region’s 900,000d). (from er tours Paradise Cave ff has been set up around a small hill as a breeding a small hill as a breeding around up has been set – though only the Nuoc Mooc Eco-Trail Mooc Nuoc 7am-4pm) c beaches central fi h primate reserve extends for 31km and is said to be the longest dry cave in the world. Once Once in the world. dry cave be the longest to 31km and is said for extends . The sheer scale of the principal cavern (5km long, 150m wide and over 200m 200m 150m wide and over (5km long, cavern the principal of The sheer scale .

Above the ground, most of this mountainous national park is near-pristine tropical ever- tropical is near-pristine national park this mountainous of most the ground, Above o remain sections Some tricky. very was access Until recently A beautiful riverside retreat, retreat, riverside beautiful A A small, semi-wild semi-wild small, A At the time of research there’s no public access to the world’s largest cave, cave, largest the world’s to no public access there’s research the time of At Only open to the public since 2011, remote remote 2011, the public since open to Only 7.30am-4.30pm) 7.30am-4.30pm) Hanoi Lai Chau Muong Lay Son La from 300,000d 130,000d 57,000d 11½ 97,000d 6 2 4 Frequent until noon 5am-2pm 5am-2pm Frequent until noon DESTINATION COST (D) DURATION (HR) FREQUENCY

DBP’s bus station is on Hwy 12, at the corner of Ð Tran Dang Ninh. Dang Tran Ð of corner at the Hwy 12, is on bus station DBP’s BUSES FROM DIEN BIENPHU gradually opening up. opening gradually Doong 40,000d, boat 220,000d; 220,000d; boat 40,000d, truly apparent, becomes sheer scale its staircase approach climbed the 500-step you’ve The crystal. white of with glimmering stalactites replete space a cathedral-like enter as you is Cave Paradise trip. than the Phong Nha Cave commercial less is a lot whole experience o Phong Nha Farmstay Trach. Son 18km from paths along the river and is a gorgeous place for a swim. Bring a picnic; it’s 12km southwest 12km southwest Bring a picnic; it’s a swim. for place and is a gorgeous along the river paths Trach. Son of Boats leave Son Trach and cruise along the Son river past bathing bu bathing past river along the Son and cruise Trach Son leave Boats centre for critically endangered Ha Tien langurs. You can walk around the perimeter fence fence the perimeter around walk can You Tien langurs. Ha endangered critically for centre Trach. Son 3km from It’s trail. via a 1.8km h tains the oldest karst mountains in Asia and is riddled with hundreds of cave systems – systems cave of hundreds and is riddled with Asia mountains in karst tains the oldest is This in the world. cave and length – including the largest scale extraordinary of many indeed. scale grand on a very nature which is primary forest. 90% of over jungle, green Sight & Activities 55km-long trip into is the boat popular excursion The most as you’re world another to transported the engine is cut and you’re Then the cave. of jaws the opportu- also You’ve experience. a surreal – quite cavern after cavern through paddled and inscriptions. Cham altars are there where Cave, Tien Son nearby up to hike to nity A Unesco World Heritage Site, the remarkable the remarkable Site, Heritage World Unesco A PHONG NHA-KE BANG NATIONAL PARK NATIONAL BANG NHA-KE PHONG

Vietnam has real allure. This is an area that (Vietnam’s of Hue packs in the serene city sites, DMZ battle former imperial capital), An, an exquisite architectural gemand Hoi that time forgot. Chuck ruins of My in the Son, extraordinary systems of Phong cave CENTRAL VIETNAM compelling culture, With ancient history, incredible food and terri

CENTRAL8HUE VIETNAM

VIETNAM 842 843 of poetic pairings to describe Hue. A World Emperor Gia Long began building the Heritage site, the capital of the Nguyen moated Citadel in 1804. The emperor’s emperors is where tourists come to see de- oﬃ cial functions were carried out in the caying, opulent royal tombs and the grand, Imperial Enclosure (Dai Noi, or Hoang Thanh; crumbling Citadel. Most of these architec- admission 55,000d; h6.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, tural attractions lie along the northern side 7am-5pm Oct-Mar), a ‘citadel within the Cita- VIETNAM of the Song Huong (Perfume River). For rest del’. Inside the 6m-high, 2.5km-long wall is VIETNAM and recreation, plus a little refreshment, the a surreal world of deserted gardens, palaces south bank is where it’s at. and ceremonial halls. The city hosts a biennial arts festival, the Within the Imperial Enclosure is the holy- Festival of Hue (www.huefestival.com), every of-the-holy Forbidden Purple City (Tu Cam CENTRALHUE VIETNAM SIGHTS & ACTIVITIES even-numbered year, featuring local and Thanh), which was reserved for the private international artists and performers. life of the emperor. The only servants allowed inside were eunuchs. Nowadays, all are wel- 1 Sights & Activities come. Drop by the beautiful (though crum- Citadel HISTORIC SITE bling) Emperor’s Reading Room (Thai Binh One of Vietnam’s treasures, the former Lau) to admire its Gaudiesque roof mosaics. imperial city on the northern bank of the West of here is the beautifully restored To Perfume River (Song Huong) is immensely Mieu Temple Complex, which encompass- impressive. Though it was heavily bombed es the three-tiered Hien Lam Pavilion and its by the USA, its scope and beauty still en- nine dynastic urns (dinh). dures, as more and more buildings are being You could spend hours exploring the rest reconstructed. of the Citadel, stumbling across other ruined

high) was only confi rmed in 2009. Oxalis off ers a great two-day trek (three to four people, US$170) to the mouth of Hang Son Doong, allowing you a glimpse into the abyss – along with lots of pristine jungle on the way. Sleeping & Eating There are a dozen or so guesthouses (all 200,000d) and cheap eateries in Son Trach village. Most travellers stay in the nearby Phong Nha Farmstay (%052-367 5135; www.phong -nha-cave.com; dm US$8, r US$25-35; aiWs), run by a welcoming Australian-Vietnamese couple. Overlooking rice paddies, this impressive place has a great vibe, a bar, local and Western food (meals 30,000-90,000d), and off ers outstanding tours, including kayaking, tubing, biking and hiking. It’s in Cu Nam, 13km southeast of Son Trach; pick-ups can be arranged in Dong Hoi. Practicalities The coastal city of Dong Hoi, 166km north of Hue on Hwy 1 and on the north-south train line, is the gateway to Phong Nha. Phong Nha-Ke Bang National Park abuts Son Trach village, which is 50km northwest of Dong Hoi. Local buses (45,000d) off er irregular connections between Dong Hoi and Son Trach. There’s also a daily minibus between Phong Nha Farmstay and Danang (200,000d), stopping in Dong Ha and Hue (150,000d) en route. Information is limited on the ground, and the odd park offi cial can be less than helpful. Doubtless things will improve as organisation gets better. At the time of research travellers were fi ne entering the national park via Tro Mung ranger post on the Ho Chi Minh Highway, but the offi cials at the main park entrance gate on Hwy 20 were turning some back. Organised tours are an excellent way to explore the park – those run by Phong Nha Farmstay are highly recommended and include incredible cultural and historical content; they cost 1,100,000d by motorbike or 900,000d by minibus. Oxalis (%090-337 6776, www. oxalis.co.vn in Vietnamese, Son Trach) is a professional locally owned adventure-tourism outfi t off ering treks inside the national park.

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er ﬀ ect ﬂ was PAGODAS (a Bud- Tomb of , who ruled, who (Quoc Tu Dieu Tu (Quoc is one of the Vietnam.21m- Its (Ham Long Hill) (Ham Long Tomb of Khai Dinh Khai of Tomb

(Ð Le Duan) (Ð Le

was built under Emperor manushi-buddha , 10km south of Hue, stands, 10km south of Hue, (admission 55,000d) (admission

Tours Pagodas Pagodas phants, horses and diminutive manda- diminutive and horses phants, Perhaps the most majestic is the most majestic the Perhaps Theelaborate, hilltop Most hotels and travellers’ cafes o hotels and travellers’ Most Ask directly south at the moorings on the

Bao Quoc Pagoda Quoc Bao Dieu De National Pagoda Pagoda National De Dieu x a price. ele reach it. rins to from 1820 to 1840. This to 1840. from 1820 southtomb, 12km for its architecture, is renowned of Hue, natural harmoniously into the which blends setting, and lakes. surrounded by a forest dedicated to Minh which is Sung An Temple, is reached via three and his empress, Mang Gate. Duc the rebuilt Hien terraces and Minh Mang Minh shared day tours from as little as US$3 per per- as US$3 tours from as little shared day tombs are some distance that many son. Note and given the time constraints, from the river, you’ll to get probably want to hire motorbikes side of the river; work out an itinerary then ﬁ T can be reached by sights around Hue Many Rates for char- River. boat via the Perfume for an hour’s tering a boat are around US$10 sightseeing; charter will cost from a half-day US$20. F Pagoda Mu Thien (admission 55,000d) (admission De; 102 Ð Bach Dang) 102 De; out from the other tombs for its uniqueout from the other tombs structure. The re buildings and statues a distinct mix of VietnameseEuropean and features. Khai to 1925. Dinh ruled from 1916 most iconic structures in Thap Phuoc Duyen, high octagonal tower, was constructed under the reign of Emperor 1844. Each of the seven in storeys Thieu Tri is dedicated to a form). Thiendha that appeared in human River, of the Perfume is on the banks Mu 4km southwest of the Citadel. founded in 1670 by Giac Phong, a Chinese Buddhist monk. It has a striking triple-gated get entrance reached via a wide staircase. To here, head south from Ð Le Loi, just south of the train station. Thieu Tri (1841–47). It is one of Hue’s three (1841–47). It is one of Hue’s Thieu Tri once under the direct pa- ‘national pagodas’, famous for its four It’s tronage of the emperor. low towers and was a stronghold of Buddhist and student opposition to the South Vietnam- ese government and the war in Vietnam.

MONUMENTS ...... B3 (admission 55,000d) (admission

Wounded Heart Center...... H4 Tomb of Tu Duc Tu of Tomb Dong Ba Market ...... F2 Spiral Foundation Healing the Café on Thu Wheels...... (see 6) DMZ Bar & Cafe ...... H3 Hue Backpackers...... (see 9) Stop and Go Café...... G5 Take ...... G5 Japanese Restaurant ...... H3 Mandarin Café...... G5 Restaurant Bloom...... H3 Hue Backpackers...... H4 Hue Thuong ...... H3 Huenino...... H3 Orchid Hotel ...... H4 Stop and Go Café...... (see 16) Google Hotel...... G5 Guesthouse Nhat Thanh...... H3 To Mieu Temple Complex...... B5 Café on Thu Wheels...... G5 Mandarin Café...... (see 14) Dieu De National Pagoda...... E1 Emperor's Reading Room...... B3 Forbidden Purple City... Halo...... H3 The Citadel...... B2 1 7 5 2 3 Sleeping Activities, Courses & Tours 8 Shopping Drinking Eating Top Sights Sights 9 6 4 11 17 15 13 12 18 19 16 14 10 20 6.30am-5.30pm Apr-Sep, 7am-5pm Oct-Mar) 7am-5pm Oct-Mar) Apr-Sep, 6.30am-5.30pm The þ û ú ÿ Ø æ æ Hue h cations and lakes. is a majestic site, laced with frangipani and pine trees and set alongside the Luu Khiem Lake. The here are temples and buildings the entrance, thebeautifully designed. Near is where the concu- Khiem pavilion Xung bines used to lounge overlooking the lake. is the Honour around the lakeshore Just a guard ofCourtyard; you pass between Dotting the banks of the Perfume River, the River, of the Perfume the banks Dotting 2km to 16km south are spread Royal Tombs of Hue. Royal Tombs Tombs Royal ( palaces, exploring overgrown gardens, forti- ﬁ

CENTRALTOURSHUE VIETNAM

VIETNAM 846 847 from the moorings to some tombs. Once the complimentary breakfast is good (eggs are various additional costs have been factored cooked to order). in, many travellers wish they had cycled or arranged a motorbike tour instead. Hue Backpackers HOSTEL $ Motorbike guides from travellers’ cafes ( %382 6567; www.hanoibackpackershostel.com/ can do customised day tours of the sights. hue; 10 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; dm/r US$6/20; aiW) With a prime location, eager-to-please staﬀ , VIETNAM VIETNAM Café on Thu Wheels TOURS good info and a fearsome happy hour, it’s ( %383 2241; [email protected]; 3/34 easy to why this is a backpacker mecca. Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong) Inexpensive cycling, Dorms are well designed and have quality motorbiking (from US$10pp) and car tours. mattresses, fans, air-con and lockers. CENTRALHUE VIETNAM SLEEPING Mandarin Café TOURS Hue Thuong HOTEL $ ( %382 1281; www.mrcumandarin.com; 24 Ð Tran ( %388 3793; 11 Ð Chu Van An; r 250,000d; aiW) Cao Van) Boss Mr Cu organises transport and Great minihotel, where the newly renovated tours. rooms, though smallish, have a real sparkle.

Stop & Go Café TOURS Guesthouse Nhat Thanh GUESTHOUSE $ ( %382 7051; www.stopandgo-hue.com; 3 Ð Hung ( %393 5589; [email protected]; 17 Vuong) Personalised motorbike and car Ð Chu Van An; r US$13-15; aW) Run by a friend- tours, including the DMZ. ly family. Has light, spacious, well-equipped rooms. 4 Sleeping Halo HOTEL $ Google Hotel HOTEL $ ( %382 9371; [email protected]; 10A/66 Ð Le ( %383 7468; www.googlehotel-hue.com; 26 Ð Tran Loi; r US$8-15; aiW) Tidy, attractive rooms, Cao Van; d/tr US$15/18; aiW) Off ering fl ash- many with balcony and a bathtub, right in packer chic at backpacker cheap, the light, the heart of backpacker alley. spacious rooms here have luxurious beds, huge fl at-screen TVs and modish en-suite Eating bathrooms. The large bar-restaurant is a 5 good place to socialise. We have famed fussy-eater Emperor Tu Duc to thank for the culinary variety of Hue and Huenino GUESTHOUSE $ an imperial cuisine banquet is usually a ( %625 2171; www.hueninohotel.com; 14 Ð Nguyen memorable experience. Royal rice cakes, the Cong Tru; r US$14-22; aiW) The family own- most common of which is banh khoai, are ers here are super-attentive, and rooms are well worth seeking out. very attractively presented with artwork, minibar, cable TV and good beds. A gener- o Lien Hoa VEGETARIAN $ ous breakfast is included. (3 Le Quy Don; meals 30,000-50,000d; h11am- 9.30pm; v) Highly authentic Viet veggie Orchid Hotel HOTEL $$ restaurant. Eat like an emperor tasting fresh ( %383 1177; www.orchidhotel.com.vn; 30A Ð Chu banh beo (steamed rice pancakes), noodles Van An; r US$35-60; aiW) Well-run modern dishes and steamboats on a peasant’s pay hotel off ering warm, effi cient service and packet. gorgeous accommodation (some rooms have desktop computer and a jacuzzi bath). Your o Take JAPANESE $ (34 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 50,000-120,000d; h11.30am-9.30pm) Off ering a delightful din- GETTING TO LAOS: CHA LO ing experience, this fi ne Japanese restaurant TO NA PHAO has a highly authentic menu. Sample some sushi (around 24,000d for two pieces) or en- On Monday, Wednesday and Friday bus joy a yakatori dish (45,000d). services pass through the border at Cha Lo–Na Phao (open 7am to 5pm) Mandarin Café VIETNAMESE $ on the Dong Hoi to Tha Khaek route (24 Ð Tran Cao Van; mains from 26,000d; v) Your (260,000d, 11 hours). They return from host here is photographer Mr Cu, whose in- Tha Khaek the next morning. See p 355 spirational pictures adorn the walls. Off ers for information on crossing this border vegetarian and breakfast choices galore on in the other direction. the varied East-meets-West menu. MARKET ts aid fi BOUTIQUE ee – can ff Gorgeous Anything andAnything 383 2241; minhthu and inimitable Thu. inimitable and (Benh Vien Trung Uong Uong Trung Vien (Benh % ( nest conical hats in Viet- fi 6.30am-8pm) 6.30am-8pm) 382 1281; www.mrcu (8 Ð Hoang Hoa Tham) h % 382 3309; www.thesinhtour ( % (motorbike taxi) charge taxi) charge (motorbike ( and picks 8.30am around ce ffi xe om 382 2325; 16 Ð Le Loi) Shopping Information % Spiral Foundation Healing the Healing Foundation Spiral [email protected]; 3/34 Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong) Phuong) Tri Nguyen Ð 3/34 [email protected]; Cycling and motorbiking tours around Hue, over- gregarious the by seen Hue Central Hospital Hue; mandarin.com; Cao Reliable Ð Tran 24 Van) tours. and transport information, Tourist Sinh Main post office post Main Café Mandarin Dong Ba Market Market Ba Dong Hung Dao; Tran (Ð 8 There are lots of internet cafes on the tourist strips of Ð Hung Vuong and Ð Le Loi. Wheels Thu on Café 7 produces the Hue rice paper and silknam and is renowned for bargain hard. paintings. As ever, S Thi Sau) Vo 23 P (www.hwhshop.com; and lively conversation. It servesand lively conversation. food till midnight. heart surgery for children in need. ecofriendly handicrafts (in- and souvenirs cluding picture from recycled frames beer cans) made by disabled artisans. Pro everything – clothing, food and co be bought here. ist.vn; 7 Ð Nguyen Phuong) Tri Open-tour buses and buses to Laos. Wounded Heart Center Center Heart Wounded DANSAVANH

$ ) $ $ BAR BAR BAR W to Sepon leave fairly regularly. fairly leave Sepon to CAFE CAFE Casu- 6-9pm) ) aou JAPANESE JAPANESE h ă W INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL rngt ŏ LAO TO BAO s Hole-in-the-wall Hole-in-the-wall ) The Lao Bao–Dansavanh border is the most popular and least least popular and is the most border Bao–Dansavanh The Lao W ti-splattered ti-splattered walls, a Party central for back- Party ﬃ ) LAOS: W The border is open from 7am to 7pm. Laos issues 30-day visas on arrival. visas 30-day issues Laos 7pm. 7am to is open from The border lling Western breakfasts. lling Western ﬁ Entering Laos, Laos, Entering As popular as ever, this joint’s this joint’s As as ever, popular

Drinking However, the easiest way of crossing the border is aboard a direct bus. Buses to Sa- to Buses bus. a direct is aboard the border crossing of way the easiest However, Japanese Restaurant Restaurant Japanese Restaurant Bloom Restaurant

Getting to the border border to the Getting own; on your the border cross to easy It’s crossing. border Vietnam–Laos problematic 85km, hours, (two station Bao bus Lao to Ha Dong from Buses Ha is the gateway. Dong here From 15 minutes. every roughly leave 50,000d) GETTING TO See p 359 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. in the other this border on crossing information for 359 p See vannakhet run from Hue via Dong Ha and Lao Bao. From Hue, there’s a 7am air-con bus a 7am air-con there’s Hue, From Bao. Ha and Lao Hue via Dong run from vannakhet This travels Tourist. the Sinh from that leaves only, on odd days 9½ hours), (280,000d, o Travel at the Sepon a stop it makes where Ha, via Dong about 12,000d to the border, or it’s a 20-minute walk. It’s a short walk of a few hundred hundred a few of a short walk It’s walk. a 20-minute or it’s the border, to about 12,000d posts. border Laos and Vietnam the between metres Sa- to getting before 210,000d) costs Savannakhet to Ha (Dong passengers up more at 4pm. vannakhet the border At on Moving al little place with tasty Vietnamese place with tasty and back- al little pizza fare, including good rice cakes, packer and pasta and packers, this hostel bar packs ’em in with its this hostel bar packs ’em packers, infused vodkas and 8pm to 9pm happy hour, cocktail list. (unashamedly tacky) Simple place for all your usual Japanese Simple place for all your usual Japanese Employs street and supports children faves. a home for them. Ideal for a sandwich, baguette, croissant or for a sandwich, baguette, Ideal on the premises). (baked home-made cake cafe employs disadvan- This little likeable taged youths. DMZ Bar & Cafe & Cafe Bar DMZ Loi) Ð Le (44 (10/2 Ð Nguyen Tri Phuong; Phuong; Tri Ð Nguyen (10/2 Café Café on Thu Wheels

Hue Backpackers Hue Backpackers Ð Pham Ngu Lao; (10

6 the evening, gather over Huda In travellers Vuong. beers in the cafes along Ð Hung

(12 Ð Chu Van An; dishes US$1.50-9.00; US$1.50-9.00; An; dishes Van (12 Ð Chu S (3 Ð Hung Vuong; meals 20,000-60,000d; 20,000-60,000d; meals Vuong; (3 Ð Hung Stop & Go Café Stop & Go Café

(14 Ð Nguyen Cong Tru; snacks from 15,000d; 15,000d; from snacks Tru; Cong Ð Nguyen (14 S with cheap grog, gra sociable vibe and good info from the feisty Thu. owner, always abuzz with rocking music, free poolalways

CENTRALDRINKINGHUE VIETNAM

VIETNAM 848 849 Vietinbank (12 Ð Hung Vuong) An ATM plus exchange services. Around Hue DEMILITARISED ZONE (DMZ) 8 Getting There & Away From 1954 until 1975, the Ben Hai River Air served as the dividing line between South Vietnam Airlines (%382 4709; 23 Ð Nguyen Vietnam and North Vietnam. The DMZ, VIETNAM Van Cu; hclosed Sun) off ers three daily fl ights 90km north of Hue, consisted of the area VIETNAM to both Hanoi and HCMC. Jetstar (%395 5955; 5km on either side of the line. Ð 176 Hung Vuong; hclosed Sun) also connects Many of the ‘sights’ around the DMZ are Hue with HCMC daily. The offi ce is about 1.5km places where historical events happened, southeast of the Trang Tien bridge. CENTRALAROUND VIETNAM HUE and may not be worthwhile unless you’re 8 Phu Bai airport is 14km south of town. Metered into war history. To make sense of it all, and taxis meet all fl ights and cost about 175,000d to avoid areas where there’s still unexploded to the centre, or use the minibus service for ordnance, take a guide. Group day tours 40,000d. Vietnam Airlines also runs an airport from Hue cost from US$11 for a budget bus shuttle, which can collect you from your hotel (tickets 55,000d). trip to as much as US$100 for a specialised car tour with a Viet vet. Bus Signifi cant sites: The main bus station is 4km to the southeast of the centre on the continuation of Ð Hung Vuong. Vinh Moc Tunnels HISTORIC SITE An Hoa bus station (Hwy 1A), northwest of the (admission 20,000d; h7am-4.30pm) Highly Citadel, serves northern destinations, including impressive complex of tunnels from the re- Dong Ha. mains of a coastal village that literally went From smaller Mien Bac bus station, 7km underground in response to unremitting north of centre, there’s also a privately operated American bombing; 110km from Hue. minibus to Phong Nha Farmstay (p 842 ) at 1pm (150,000d, 7½ hours). Truong Son National Cemetery CEMETERY A memorial to Hue is also a regular stop on the open-tour bus (Nghia Trang Liet Si Truong Son) routes. Mandarin and Stop and Go cafes can ar- the tens of thousands of North Vietnamese range bookings for the bus to Savannakhet, Laos. soldiers killed along the Ho Chi Minh Trail. Row after row of white tombstones stretch Train across the hillsides; about 105km from Hue. Hue train station (2 Ð Bui Thi Xuan) is at the southwestern end of Ð Le Loi. Khe Sanh Combat Base HISTORIC SITE (admission 20,000d; h7am-5pm) The site of the war’s most famous siege; about 500 US and 8 Getting Around 10,000 NVA troops died here in 1968. There’s Bicycles (US$1 to US$2), motorbikes (US$4 a small museum. About 130km from Hue. to US$10) and cars (from US$35 per day) can be hired through hotels all over town. Mai Linh BACH MA NATIONAL PARK (%389 8989) has air-con taxis with meters. A French-era hill station known for its cool Cyclos and xe om will fi nd you when you need weather, Bach Ma National Park (%054-387 them, and when you don’t. 1330; www.bachma.vnn.vn; admission 20,000d) is

TRANSPORT FROM HUE

CAR/ DESTINATION MOTORBIKEBUS TRAIN AIR Hanoi 16hr US$18-27; 13-16hr; US$20-40; from US$30; 1hr; 8 daily 12-17hr; 5 daily 3 daily HCMC 22hr US$23-37; 19-24hr; US$27-54; from US$32; 1hr; 8 daily 20-22hr; 4 daily 4 daily Danang 2½-4hr US$3; 3hr; US$3-6; N/A every 20 min 2½-4hr; 8 daily Dong Hoi3½hr US$4-7; 3½hr; US$5-10; N/A 12 daily 3-5½hr; 8 daily

. $ $ $ $ , ) $$ $$ fi a- ff er- W ff HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL O ) VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE GUESTHOUSE INTERNATIONAL INTERNATIONAL and a good and 10am-11pm; 10am-11pm; ff aiW Excellent little Excellent little ) h INTERNATIONAL, BAR BAR INTERNATIONAL, the beach. ff aiW . Casual bar-restaurant ) ered. Doubles as a bar. W ff . The options don’t cheaper have fi . Try the succulent seafood or their . Try Waterfront Waterfront Eena Hotel Hotel Eena ff Eating & Drinking & Eating astonishing value, this minihotel hasastonishing value, this 386 7026; 25 Ð Yen Bai; dishes 18,000-140,000d) Bai; dishes Yen 25 Ð 386 7026; 396 9216; 215/14 Ð Huyen Tran Cong Chua; Cong Tran Ð Huyen 215/14 396 9216; 388 8571; [email protected]; 36 Ð 36 [email protected]; 388 8571; 222 5123; www.geocities.jp/eenahotel; Khu 222 5123; www.geocities.jp/eenahotel; 11.30am-10.30pm; 11.30am-10.30pm; % % % % ble sta rice signature dish. claypot ing immaculatelylight spacious white clean, fast wi- with views. There’s rooms, many complimentary breakfast too. About 3km west of the centre, just o friendly English-speaking sta friendly English-speaking that scores highly for Western grub, includ- that scores highly for Western ing good-value steaks, generous salads and Italian food; Vietnamese dishes are also reliable. Beer is veryis just cheap (La Rue 15,000d); happy hour is 5pm to 8pm. budgettag. price contemporaryhave Rooms cons. and all mod decor Very popular with locals, this contempo- popular with locals, Very rary restaurant has hearty meals and a Shabby but not chic, Hoa’s is nevertheless Shabby but not chic, Hoa’s haunt thanks to thea popular backpacker food and beachside fantastic hospitality, still open as big resorts location. Check it’s 6km An Beach, On My are planned nearby. southwest of Danang. hotel with 15 modern rooms, painted white modern rooms, painted hotel with 15 all with a good TVand pale pink, and in- room wi- windows. My An Beach; [email protected]; r U$9) [email protected]; An Beach; My Hung Vuong; r US$17-20; r US$17-20; Vuong; Hung ( (www.waterfrontdanang.com; 150-152 Ð Bach 150-152 (www.waterfrontdanang.com; 90,000-300,000d; meals Dang; Sky Red 80,000-200,000d; Phu; meals Tran Ð (248 h Nieu Com Hoa’s Place Place Hoa’s ( 5 o Winn Hotel Hotel Winn ( CHINA BEACH o ( An Cu 3; s/d/tw US$14/19/24; US$14/19/24; An Cu 3; s/d/tw Hip new riverfrontHip lounge-cum-restaurant that has really helped put Danang on the map. Gourmet light sandwiches (90,000d), pepper calamari) and salt ’n’ snacks (like select mains are o $$ $$ A nd ) fi HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL ordnance at-screen aiW fl New hotel New ) 054-387 1330; 054-387 % ( nished rooms in

fi aiW fth-biggest city, is on fth-biggest city, fi at the park entrance. sometimenish in 2013. guesthouse fi nd. fi ers unrivalled value for money, with ers unrivalled value for money, New Moon Hotel Moon Hotel New

Sleeping ﬀ ve-star hotel developments are emerg- ﬁ

382 2216; [email protected]; 220 [email protected]; 382 2216; 382 8488; [email protected]; 126 Ð Bach 126 382 8488; [email protected]; erent price categories, all with That itself still has few con- said, the city There’s a There’s There’s some decent trekking in the lower some decent trekking There’s 0511 / POP 788,500 ﬀ % % more accommodation close to the summit. more accommodation close a selection of beautifully di TV en-suite marble bathrooms. and inviting Book a river-view room for breathtaking vistas. Ð Bach Dang; r 450,000-600,000d; r 450,000-600,000d; Ð Bach Dang; Dang; r 300,000-800,000d; r 300,000-800,000d; Dang; spanking new riverfront place with a prime location, the Rainbow is a hip hotel with a [email protected]; r with fan/air-con r with fan/air-con [email protected]; 180,000/270,000d) Rainbow Hotel Hotel Rainbow ( ( CITY CENTRE o

4 An excellent selection of new minihotels has opened along the riverside in central Dan- ang, good budget though hotels aren’t as easy to % Danang, Vietnam’s ventional sightseeing spots except for a de- a day cent museum. So for most travellers, is probably enough. or two ing on the My Khe strip. And a revampeding on the My international airport should open in 2012. Danang decades it had a reputation the move. For backwater, as a slightly mundane provincial but big changes are brewing. riv- The Han erfront with gleaming new is resplendent modernist hotels and restaurants. Beach- side, is still in the area, so stick to the trails. is still in the 45km southeast of Hue. There’s currently a There’s of Hue. southeast 45km lot of construction Ma on inside Bach going of research at the time the roads; to upgrade is lower sectionsonly the open. Work were to scheduled levels to villages subtropical forest through vil- can book of the park. You on the fringes or tours and English- lage and birdwatching per day) guides (200,000d French-speaking centre. Unexploded at the visitor When the upper sections you’ll reopen, that o

CENTRALSLEEPINGDANANG VIETNAM

VIETNAM 850 851

S Bread of Life INTERNATIONAL $$ (www.breado fl ifedanang.com; 4 Ð Dong Da; meals MUSEUM OF CHAM 40,000-100,000d; hclosed Sun) American- SCULPTURE style diner-cum-bakery where the pancakes, burgers, sandwiches, pizza and other com- Danang’s jewel is its famed Museum fort foods hit the spot. Run by deaf staff and of Cham Sculpture (1 Ð Trung Nu VIETNAM benefi ts deaf people. Vuong; admission 30,000d; h7am-5pm). VIETNAM This classic, colonial-era building Le Funk BAR houses the fi nest collection of Cham (166 Ð Bach Dang) Lively riverfront hole-in- sculpture to be found anywhere on the-wall run by a genial French DJ, so expect CENTRALDANANG VIETNAM earth. There are more than 300 pieces 8 pumping house tunes. on display, including altars, lingas, garudas, apsaras, Ganeshas and im- Chillout Cafe BAR, RESTAURANT (36 Ð Thai Phien) Hospitable place with Viet- ages of Shiva, Brahma and Vishnu – all namese and Western owners and a relaxed dating from the 5th to 15th centuries. atmosphere, fi lling food, quiz nights and These intricately carved sandstone great local information. pieces come from Cham sites all over Vietnam. Tulip Brewery BREWERY Guides hang out at the museum’s (174 Ð 2/9) Huge Czech-style microbrewery entrance. pub 1km south of the centre that draws locals in their hundreds. Also has a menu of Western and Vietnamese dishes. when the new airport terminal opens in 2012 or 2013. For domestic connections, Jetstar Pacifi c (%358 3538; www.jetstar.com; 307 Ð Phan Chu Information 8 Trinh) has daily fl ights from Danang to HCMC There are internet cafes scattered all over Dan- and Hanoi while Vietnam Airlines (%382 1130; ang. Consult the website www.indanang.com for www.vietnamairlines.com; 35 Ð Tran Phu) oper- reviews and information. ates direct fl ights to Hanoi, HCMC, Haiphong, Agribank (202 Ð Nguyen Chi Thanh) ATM and Buon Ma Thuot and Nha Trang. exchange service. Bus Dana Tours (%382 5653; 76 Ð Hung Vuong; hMon-Sat) Offers car hire, boat trips, visa The bus station (Ð Dien Bien Phu) is 3km west extensions and daytrips. of the city centre. Buses run to Hue (64,000d, three hours) and to points up and down the coast Danang Family Medical Practice (%358 all the way to HCMC and Hanoi. For Laos, there 2700; www.vietnammedicalpractice.com; are three weekly services to Savannakhet at 8pm 50-52 Ð Nguyen Van Linh) One of Vietnam’s (130,000d, 14 hours), crossing the border at most trusted foreign-owned clinics. Lao Bao. There’s also a daily service to Pakse at Hospital C (Benh Vien C; %382 2480; 35 Ð 6.30am (190,000d, 14 hours). Buses to the Lao Hai Phong) The most advanced hospital in Bao border alone are 95,000d (six hours); you Danang. may have to change buses at Dong Ha. Main post office (%383 7407; 64 Ð Bach Dang) Yellow public buses to Hoi An (18,000d, one Sinh Tourist (%384 3258; www.thesinh hour, hourly) travel along Ð Tran Phu in the heart tourist.vn; 154 Ð Bach Dang) Books open-tour of town. buses. Travel agencies can also arrange passage on Trong’s Real Easy Riders (%090 359 7971; open-tour minibuses running between Danang [email protected]) A branch of the Easy and both Hoi An and Hue. Riders group, which operates out of Danang. Vietcombank (140 Ð Le Loi) Exchange services Taxis & Motorbikes and ATM. A taxi to Hoi An offi cially costs around 400,000d, but most will drop to 300,000d, while xe om 8 Getting There & Away charge around 90,000d. Bargain hard if you want to stop at the Marble Mountains or China Beach Air en route. A ride to the airport is around 55,000d. Danang’s only scheduled international connec- Call Mai Linh (%356 5656) for a cab. tion at the time of research was Silk Air (%356 2708; www.silkair.com; HAGL Plaza Hotel, Ð Train 1 Nguyen Van Linh) fl ights (four per week) to Danang train station is 1.5km from the city Singa pore, but expect more routes to open centre on Ð Hai Phong at Ð Hoang Hoa Tham.

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CENTRAL8AROUND DANANG VIETNAM

VIETNAM 852 853

Danang Hoi An æ Top Sights % 0510 / POP 122,000 Museum of Cham Sculpture ...... D6 Graceful, historic Hoi An is Vietnam’s most Ø atmospheric and delightful town. Once a Activities, Courses & Tours major port, it boasts the grand architecture 1 Dana Tours ...... D4 VIETNAM and beguiling riverside setting that befi ts VIETNAM 2 Sinh Tourist ...... D5 its heritage, and the 21st-century curses ÿ Sleeping of traffi c and pollution are almost entirely 3 New Moon Hotel...... D4 absent. CENTRALHOI VIETNAM AN 4 Rainbow Hotel...... D5 Hoi An owes its easy-going ambience and SIGHTS 5 Winn Hotel ...... D4 remarkably harmonious character more to luck than planning. Had the Thu Bon River ú Eating not silted up in the late 19th century Hoi An 6 Bread of Life ...... D1 would doubtless be very diff erent today. 7 Com Nieu ...... D4 The city’s allure and importance dwin- 8 Red Sky ...... D6 dled until an abrupt revival in fortunes in 9 Waterfront ...... D5 the 1990s, when a tourism boom transformed the local economy. Today Hoi An û Drinking is once again a cosmopolitan melting pot, 10 Chillout Cafe...... D5 one of the nation’s wealthiest towns and a 11 Le Funk...... D5 culinary hot spot. ï Information In the Old Town, an incredible legacy of 12 Lao Consulate ...... C1 tottering Japanese merchant houses, Chi- nese temples and ancient tea warehouses ï Transport has been preserved and converted into styl- 13 Silk Air ...... B6 ish restaurants, wine bars and a glut of tailor shops. And yet down by the market and over in neighbouring An Hoi peninsula life has pagodas. With natural caves sheltering changed little. small Hindu and Buddhist sanctuaries and Travel a few kilometres further – you’ll stunning views of the ocean and surround- fi nd some superb bicycle, motorbike and ing countryside, they’re worth taking the boat trips – and some of central Vietnam’s time to explore. most enticing, bucolic scenery and beaches China Beach (Bai Non Nuoc), once an are within easy reach. R’n’R hang-out for US soldiers during the war, is actually a series of beaches stretch- 1 Sights ing 30km between Hoi An and Danang. HOI AN OLD TOWN Nearest to central Danang, My Khe A Unesco World Heritage Site, Hoi An Old Beach is well touristed and accordingly has Town levies an admission fee to most of beachside restaurants and roving vendors. its historic buildings, which goes towards Opposite the Marble Mountains is Non funding the preservation of the town’s Nuoc Beach, and in between the two are architecture. Buying the ticket (admission countless spots to spread your beach towel 90,000d) gives you a choice of fi ve herit- on the sand. age sites to visit – Chinese Assembly Halls, For surfers, China Beach’s break gets a pagodas and temples, historic houses and decent swell from mid-September to De- museums. Booths dotted around the Old cember. The best time for swimming is Town sell tickets. from May to July, when the sea is at its The following list of sites is by no means calmest. There’s a mean undertow, so take comprehensive. care. Buses and minibuses running between F Japanese Covered Bridge BRIDGE Danang and Hoi An can drop you off at (Ð Tran Phu & Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai) Hoi An’s the entrance to the Marble Mountains and iconic bridge was constructed in 1593 and China Beach, and it’s easy to fi nd onward has a roof and a temple built into its north- transport. ern side. According to one story, the bridge’s construction began in the year of the monkey

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VIETNAM 854 855 Assembly Hall of the Hoi An Fujian Chinese Congregation TEMPLE æ Top Sights (opposite 35 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town h Founded for community Assembly Hall of the Fujian ticket; 7am-5.30pm) meetings, this hall later became a temple to Chinese Congregation ...... E3 worship Thien Hau, a deity born in Fujian Japanese Covered Bridge ...... B3 VIETNAM Province in China. Check out the elaborate VIETNAM Quan Cong Temple...... E3 mural, the unhealthy skin of the statuary, Tan Ky House ...... C4 and the replica of a Chinese boat. Tran Family Chapel...... D3 Tan Ky House HISTORIC HOME æ Sights CENTRALHOI VIETNAM AN (101 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; admission by Old Town SIGHTS 1 Museum of Trading Ceramics...... D3 ticket; h8am-noon & 2-4.30pm) A lovingly pre- Ø Activities, Courses & Tours served house from the 19th century, which 2 Blue Coral Diving...... D4 once belonged to a Vietnamese merchant. 3 Cham Island Diving Center...... D4 Japanese and Chinese architectural inﬂ u- 4 Gioan ...... D4 ences are evident throughout. The house is 5 Hoi An Motorbike Adventures...... D3 a private home, and has been in the same Morning Glory Cooking School. (see 14) family for seven generations.

ÿ Sleeping Tran Family Chapel HISTORIC HOME 6 An Hoi Hotel...... B4 (21 Ð Le Loi; admission by Old Town ticket; h7.30am- 7 Hoa Binh Hotel ...... C1 noon & 2-5.30pm) This chapel was built in 8 Hoang Trinh Hotel...... A2 1802 for worshipping family ancestors by 9 Phuong Dong Hotel ...... B1 Tran Tu, who ascended to the rank of mand- 10 Thien Nga Hotel ...... B1 arin. Its architecture reﬂ ects the inﬂ uence of Chinese (the ‘turtle’-style roof), Japanese ú Eating (triple beam) and vernacular (look out for 11 Bale Well...... D3 the bow-and-arrow detailing) styles. 12 Cargo Club...... C4 13 Mermaid Restaurant ...... F3 Quan Cong Temple TEMPLE

14 Morning Glory Street Food (Chua Ong; 24 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town Dedicated to venerated Chinese gen- Restaurant...... C4 ticket) eral Quan Cong, who is worshipped as a 15 Phone Café ...... D4 symbol of loyalty and justice, this temple 16 Shree Ganesh Indian has some wonderful papier-mâché and gilt Restaurant...... D2 statues. When someone makes an off ering to û Drinking the portly looking Quan Cong, the caretaker 17 Before & Now ...... D4 solemnly strikes a bronze bowl. Dive Bar...... (see 3) Museum of Trading Ceramics MUSEUM 18 Why Not? ...... G3 (80 Ð Tran Phu; admission by Old Town ticket; þ Shopping h7am-5.30pm) Occupies a simply restored 19 Art Galleries...... B3 wooden house and contains artefacts from 20 Lotus Jewellery ...... C4 all over Asia. The displays are mediocre, but Reaching Out...... (see 12) the small exhibition on the restoration of Hoi An’s old houses is fascinating. ï Information 21 Hoi An Old Town Booth...... D3 Arts & Crafts Villages 22 Hoi An Old Town Booth...... E3 All those neat fake antiques sold in Hoi An’s 23 Hoi An Old Town Booth...... C3 shops are manufactured in nearby villages. 24 Hoi An Old Town Booth...... E3 Cross the An Hoi footbridge to reach the 25 Hoi An Old Town Booth...... F3 An Hoi Peninsula, noted for its boat factory and mat-weaving factories. South of the peninsula is Cam Kim Island, where and fi nished in the year of the dog; thus one people are engaged in woodcarving and entrance is guarded by monkeys, the other by boatbuilding. Cross the Cam Nam bridge to dogs (neither pair will confi rm or deny this Cam Nam village, a lovely spot also noted story). for arts and crafts. $ $ $ $ $ $$ HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL Cao lau lau Cao oor lack fl Plain, good- All the very ) ) With a good Excellent loca- ) ) Well-run place Well-run ) Spacious, light, Spacious, ) (‘white rose’), an (‘white rose’), aWi ai aiWs aiWs aiWs , minibar, cable TV cable and minibar, , fi are smiley and accom- ff aiWs banh bao banh at noodles mixed with croutons, ers a culinary in- tour de force, fl ff ed with minced shrimp. ff Thien Nga Hotel Hotel Nga Thien Eating . fi 391 1888; www.anhoihotel.com.vn; 69 Ð Nguyen Ð Nguyen 69 391 1888; www.anhoihotel.com.vn; 391 6838; www.hoianbinhhotel.com; 696 Ð Hai 696 391 6838; www.hoianbinhhotel.com; Ð Ly 203 www.vinhhuyhotel.com; 391 6559; 391 6330; [email protected]; 52 Ð Ba 52 [email protected]; 391 6330; 45 Ð www.hoianhoangtrinhhotel.com; 391 6579; 391 6477; www.hoianphuongdonghotel.com; 42 Ð www.hoianphuongdonghotel.com; 391 6477; doughy % % % % % % value rooms with comfortable mattresses, reading lights, fan and air-con and in-room wi- with helpful, friendly service. Rooms here spacious and clean, but cluttered are a little Guests also TV. with high ceilings and cable get a good complimentary breakfast. air-con, this is getting close to budgetair-con, this is getting chic. is (in the lobby!) layout the pool However, change according tobizarre and room rates demand. selectionand comfortable of simple modern rooms, all with wi- Phuc Chu; r US$20-35; Phuc Chu; r US$20-35; Ba Trung; r US$12-18; r US$12-18; Trung; Ba Thoung Kiet; r US$10-12; Trieu; r US$30-35; r US$30-35; Trieu; r US$20-28; Don; Quy Le cluding several amazing local specialities. Be sure to try Phuong Dong Hotel Hotel Phuong Dong ( An Hoi Hotel ( 5 An o Hoi incredibly delicate dish of steamed dump- ling stu Hoa Binh Hotel Binh Hotel Hoa ( Huy Vinh ( bean sprouts and greens, topped with pork slices and served in a savoury broth – is also o ( Hotel Trinh Hoang ( tion, with rooms that are a good size, clean and modern. Some on the lower natural light. Ba Trieu; s/d/tr US$10/12/15; US$10/12/15; s/d/tr Trieu; Ba cheap, clean well-appointed rooms here rep- fan minibar, resent a great deal and have large bathrooms some have and cable TV; a 15-minute walk from the Old with tubs. It’s Town. modating. The roof. pool is covered by a airy lovely and a balcony all with rooms contemporary(though the bathrooms feel rear for Book one at the are more prosaic). garden views. Sta –

. DIVING DIVING banh FESTIVAL ered by ﬀ om; 106 Ð Runs a Runs COOKING COURSE COOKING COOKING COOKING COURSE theer trips to ﬀ estaurant-hoian.c (80B Ð Bach Dang; US$12) (80B Ð Bach Dang;

Classes are directed by the 386 3899; 98B Ð Bach Dang; US$16) 98B Ð Bach Dang; 386 3899; % ( Morning Glory

Sleeping Festivals & Events Activities relaxing retreat about 4km from Hoi relaxing retreat Hoi about 4km from and white rose, plus regional Viet- Courses Phone Café Phone

393 3222; www.visithoian.com) 393 627 9297; www.divehoian.com; 77 Ð Nguyen 77 Ð Nguyen www.divehoian.com; 9297; 627 391 0782; www.chamislanddiving.com; 88 Ð www.chamislanddiving.com; 391 0782; 224 1555; www.r 224 Snorkellers pay US$30 to US$40. Trips Trips to US$40. US$30 pay Snorkellers % % % % Diving& Snorkelling Nguyen Thai Nguyen Hoc) Thai Hoc) Nguyen Thai Nguyen Hoc) and

Hoi An is awash with excellent accommoda- awash An is Hoi tion options. 4

Hoi An Legendary Night An Legendary Hoi place on the 14th (full moon) of day Takes every lunar month from 5.30pm10pm. to These festive evenings feature traditional food, song and dance, and games along the lantern-lit streets centre. in the town z ( Red Bridge Bridge Red School Cooking ( o Gioan C cooking classes are o Informal Blue Coral Diving Blue Coral ( ( Cham Island Diving Center Cham Island Diving Center Cham Islands. Both charge exactly Both Cham the same Islands. The US$75. dives are fun is diving two rates: but can be intriguing,not world class, with to the life – and the day-trip good macro Cham islands is superb. and Septem- February between only leave and July are best in June, ber; conditions August.

o dive schools reputable Two 2 course that starts with a trip to the market, and is followed by a cruise down the river to its An. Half day/full day costs US$23/39 per costs US$23/39 day day/full An. Half person. acclaimed Vy, owner of several restaurants acclaimed Vy, learn in town, or Lu, her protégé. You’ll how to tackle local recipes, including namese dishes in a professionally organised environment. khoai Cooking School School Cooking

CENTRALACTIVITIESHOI AN VIETNAM

VIETNAM 856 857 delicious. The other two culinary treats are 6 Drinking fried hoanh thanh (won ton) and banh xeo (crispy savoury pancakes rolled with herbs o Dive Bar BAR in fresh rice paper). (88 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; W) Expect a great vibe here thanks to the welcoming service, elec- o Morning Glory tronic tunes and party atmosphere. Check out the gorgeous cocktail garden and bar at VIETNAM Street Food Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ VIETNAM ( %224 1555; www.restaurant-hoian.com; 106 Ð the rear. Nguyen Thai Hoc; dishes 42,000-120,000d; Wv) Why Not? BAR A simply outstanding restaurant, housed in (10B Ð Pham Hong Thai; i) Great late-night CENTRALHOI VIETNAM AN historic premises, that concentrates on street hang-out with pool table and YouTube juke- DRINKING food and traditionally prepared Vietnam- box. Run by a friendly local character who’s ese cooking. The exceptional dishes include been in the bar game for decades. shrimp mousse on sugarcane skewers, caramelised pork with young bamboo and Before & Now BAR wonderful salads. (www.beforennow.com; 51 Ð Le Loi; W) Your standard-issue backpackers’ bar, complete o Cargo Club INTERNATIONAL $$ with (slightly clichéd) pictures of the likes ( %391 0489; www.restaurant-hoian.com; 107 Ð of Che, Marilyn, er...Charles Manson. Expect Nguyen Thai Hoc; dishes 35,000-105,000d; W) mainstream pop and rock. Happy hour 6pm For all things Western, from a snack to fi ne to 9pm. dining, Cargo Club excels: the best breakfasts, delectable patisserie selections and 7 Shopping mains like grilled seabass and lamb shank Tailor-made clothing is one of Hoi An’s best rate very highly indeed. Head for the upper trades, and there are more than 200 tailor terrace for stunning river views. shops in town that can whip up an ao dai (traditional Vietnamese tunic and trousers), Shree Ganesh Western suits, shirts and much more. Other Indian Restaurant INDIAN $$ hot items include handmade shoes and silk (www.ganeshindianrestaurant.com; 24 Ð Tran Hung lanterns. Dao; meals 60,000-120,000d; hnoon-10.30pm) Hoi An also boasts a growing array of Authentic Indian with tantalising thalis, interesting art galleries, especially on the fi ery curries and naans freshly baked in a west side of the Japanese Covered Bridge. tandoor oven. Prices are reasonable and portions generous. S Reaching Out SOUVENIRS Mermaid Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ (www.reachingoutvietnam.com; 103 Ð Nguyen Thai (www.restaurant-hoian.com; 2 Ð Tran Phu; dishes Hoc) This is a fair-trade gift shop is a great 35,000-90,000d) One of the original Hoi An place to spend your dong. Profi ts assist eateries (established 1992), this renowned disabled artisans. yet simple-looking place serves up wonder- Lotus Jewellery JEWELLERY ful Hoi An specialities and unique family (www.lotusjewellery-hoian.com; 100 Ð Nguyen Thai recipes. Hoc) Very aff ordable and attractive hand- Bale Well VIETNAMESE $ crafted pieces. (45-51 Ð Tran Cao Van; meals 40,000-75,000d; h11.30am-10pm) Local place that’s famous for 8 Information one dish: delicious barbecued pork, served For the most part, Hoi An is very safe at any up satay-style, which you then combine with hour. However, late-night bag snatchings in fresh greens and herbs to create your own the unlit market have been known, and women fresh spring roll. should avoid walking home alone late at night. Most hotels have lobby computers and free Phone Café VIETNAMESE $ wi-fi . (80B Ð Bach Dang; dishes 22,000-62,000d) Phone Agribank (Ð Tran Hung Dao) With ATM. Café is a humble -looking place that serves the usual faves plus some good claypot Hoi An Hospital (%386 1364; 4 Ð Tran Hung Dao) Serious problems should be addressed in specialities. Danang.

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; , the 393 0240; 0240; 393 393 0007; r 0007; 393 % ( % ne, sheltered ( Cham islands ﬁ Cham Restau- 6.30am-4pm) h Luu Ly Ly Luu , which is dedicated Thu Trang Trang Thu make an excellent day out. an excellent day make Ong Ngu Ong , Hon Lao’s pretty little port, is little pretty Lao’s , Hon and both places serve meals.

, . There’s also a scheduled daily boat . There’s 224 1108; meals 50,000-90,000d) meals 1108; 224 Hon Lao Hon % ( (admission 60,000d; 60,000d; (admission 856 Getting There & Away

The islands are protected as a marine The ruins are 55km southwest of Hoi An. The of Hoi ruins are 55km southwest Bai LangBai A dirt track heads southwest from Hon The the north to immediately coastline of 0510 / POP 2700 sherfolk. connection from the boat landing on Ð Bach 7.30am hours, An (20,000d, two Dang in Hoi daily), but note foreigners are routinely charged more. Boats do not sail during heavy seas. Bring a copy of your passport and visa. Son are blissfully undeveloped – for now. Trips to Trips undevelopedare blissfully now. – for visit the main is- the reefs and dive or snorkel land of rant rant park and the underwater in- environment cludes 135 species of soft and hard coral and varied macro life. The Chams are only accessible for about seven to September), asmonths of the year (March at other times. the ocean is usually too rough r 200,000d) r 200,000d) ahead to book your meal. Most visitors arrive on tours (US$25 to visitors arrive on tours (US$25 Most An; organised by dive schools in Hoi US$40) see p MY SON Tooth Set of Cat’s under the shadow ruins of are the enigmatic Mountain 8 CHAM ISLANDS % o cluster of granite islands A breathtaking serene An, the shore from Hoi 200,000d) most important the ancient remains of Heritage World Cham empire and a Unesco Site. Although Vietnam preserved has better Cham extensive sites, none are as and few such beautiful surroundings as this,have with brooding mountains and clear streams the temples. running between Son can be arranged in Hoi tours to My Day not includ- and US$7, US$5 An for between ing admission, and some trips return to Hoi to whales (locals worshipped them as oce- to whales (locals worshipped good, simpleanic deities). There are two guesthouses in town, the only real settlement. Drop by the curi-the only real settlement. ous temple Lao for 2km past coves to a beach, home to the excellent An Bang remains pristine, a glorious broadpristine, a remains An Bang pandan trees and lined with casuarina beach curious with the of local coracles and dotted ﬁ

La La is

and ) An Bang An Cua Dai Cua W c European ﬁ Mai Linh Mai (www.soulkitchen.

386 1204; 84 Ð Ð 84 1204; 386 ne sand and you’ll Hoi An, Hoi (www.randysbook fi 391 7567; www.rose % er terri ff ( % (96 Ð Hung Vuong), ( 391 9919) or (48 Ð Tran Hung Ð Tran (48 Dao) % (2 Truong Minh Luong; per per Luong; Minh Truong (2 386 3948; www.sinhtourist. ( er bicycles/motorbikes for rent ff 386 1340; 4 Ð Hoang Dieu) Full both o % Soul Kitchen Soul ) ( % ( W (www.laplagehoian.com; meals from from meals (www.laplagehoian.com;

Getting Around Getting Getting There & Away Hoi An Taxi

392 5925) for a pick-up. Just 3km northof Cua Dai, Just Many hotels o The nearest airport and train station are both Hoi An bus station % nd lots of little cool little beachfront bar- cool little of little nd lots from 20,000/100,000d per day. per 20,000/100,000d from subject to intense development and the domain of hard-selling beach vendors. There are seafood restaurants here. ( sitew.com, meals around 90,000d; 90,000d; around meals sitew.com, ﬁ restaurants: is fast emerging as one of Vietnam’s most is fast emerging as one of Vietnam’s happening and enjoyable beaches. It has a wonderful stretch of

BEACHES The nearest beach to Around Hoi An Hoi Around

in Danang. in 8 Metered taxis and motorbike drivers wait for business over the footbridge bridge in An Hoi. Call 1km west of the centre, mainly serves local destinations, (18,000d, including Danang hour). one

Most north-south bus services do not stop at Hoi An, but you can head for the town of Vinh Dien (10km to the west) and catch one there. If headingyou’re for Hue or Nha Trang, open-tour buses, including those run by Sinh Tourist, are easier. 8 Hoi An police station police An Hoi Vietinbank com; 587 Ð Hai Ba Trung) For open-tour buses. Sinh Tourist Sinh travelservice.com; Ð 111 Ba Trieu) Tours, Tours, 111 Trieu) Ba Ð travelservice.com; car rental, bus bookings and boat, jeep and motorbike trips. Plage Main post office post Main Xchange Book Randy’s Service Rose Travel Hoang Dieu) Hoang Computer Min’s hr 5000d) can You also print, scan, burn and Skype here. xchange.com; 5 Khoi To Xuyen Trung) 100,000d; 100,000d; food. exchange services, plus ATMs.

CENTRAL8AROUND HOI VIETNAM AN

VIETNAM 858 859 An by boat. Independent travellers can hire This part of the country has its own a motorbike, xe om or car. Get here early in microclimate and the rains tend to come order to beat the tour groups, or later in the from October until December – not the best afternoon. time for beach bums or scuba divers.

1 Sights VIETNAM SOUTH-CENTRAL COAST Nha Trang Coast BEACHES VIETNAM Coconut palms provide shade for sunbathers Vietnam has an incredibly curvaceous coast- and strollers along most of Nha Trang’s line and on this coast it’s defi ned by sweep- 6km beachfront. The best beach weather is ing sands, towering cliff s and concealed SOUTH-CENTRAL COASTSOUTH-CENTRAL NHA TRANG generally before 1pm, as the afternoon sea SIGHTS bays. breezes can whip up the sand. Nha Trang, Mui Ne and the Con Dao is- Beach chairs are available for rent and lands are key destinations, but the beach vendors peddle food and massages. Head breaks come thick and fast here. If your idea further south and it’s still possible to fi nd an of paradise is reclining in front of turquoise empty stretch of sand. waters, weighing up the merits of a massage Hon Chong Promontory, 2.5km north of or a mojito, then you have come to the right central Nha Trang, is a scenic collection of place. granite rocks jutting into the South China On hand to complement the sedentary Sea. The promontory borders a rustic beach delights are activities to set the pulse racing, cove with island views. including scuba diving, snorkelling, surfi ng, windsurfi ng and kitesurfi ng. Action or inac- Po Nagar Cham Towers TEMPLE tion, this coast bubbles with opportunities. (Ð 2 Thang 4; admission 16,000d; h6am-6pm) Built between the 7th and 12th centuries on a site used by Hindus for linga (phallic Nha Trang symbols) worship, the Po Nagar Cham Tow- % 058 / POP 375,000 ers are 2km north of central Nha Trang. The Welcome to the beach capital of Vietnam. hill off ers blue views of the harbour below. Visually it’s startling, with towering moun- Originally there were seven or eight tains behind the city and a sweeping beach towers; four remain. The 28m-high North (that forms a fully fl edged international Tower (Thap Chinh), with its terraced resort, complete with high-rise hotels). Off - pyramidal roof, is a superb example of Cham shore islands add to the appeal, off ering deca- architecture; it was built in 817. dent boat trips and diving in turquoise water. Cham, ethnic Chinese and Vietnamese A party town at heart, people play late Buddhists come to Po Nagar to pray and here. Yes, the nightlife rocks! make off erings.

GETTING TO LAOS: BO Y TO PHOU KEUA

Getting to the border The Bo Y–Phou Keua border connects Kon Tum and Attapeu (Laos). Buses leave Pleiku at 8am daily for Attapeu (240,000d, eight hours, 250km), continuing to Pakse (320,000d, 12 hours, 440km). Kon Tum Tourist (%60 386 3333; www.kontumtourist.com; 2 P Dinh Phung Kontum) can arrange for you to join the bus when it passes through Kon Tum at 9.30am. Mai Linh Express also run daily buses on this route. Buses also depart Quy Nhon several times a week, passing through Pleiku and Kon Tum en route to Attapeu and Pakse, but as the schedule ﬂ uctuates check locally for the latest details. At the border Lao visas are available on arrival. Crossing the border (open daily 7am to 5pm) is a challenge. On the Vietnam side, the nearest major town is Ngoc Hoi, which can be reached by bus (30,000d, 1½ hours, 60km) from Kon Tum. You’ll have to catch a minibus or xe om from Ngoc Hoi to cover the 14km to the border. Moving on On the Laos side, things are even quieter and you’ll be at the mercy of passing traﬃ c to hitch a ride onwards. Take a through bus. See p 363 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. 1 2 5 3 6 4 21 Giant Giant û #

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F Thang 10; Ð 23 Hoi Khanh Hoa; Tinh (Chua 11.30am & 1.30-8pm) 11.30am

SOUTH-CENTRALSIGHTSNHA TRANG COAST

VIETNAM

860 6 861 Watch out for scammers claiming to quinine-producing trees to Vietnam, and work ‘for the monks’. They’ll attempt to discovered the rat-borne microbe that caus- guide you around the site, then demand a es bubonic plague. hefty fee. Yersin’s library and offi ce are now an in- The pagoda is a 400m west of the train teresting museum. Tours are in French, Eng- station. lish and Vietnamese. VIETNAM VIETNAM Alexandre Yersin Museum MUSEUM Photographic Galleries ART GALLERIES (10 Ð Tran Phu; admission 26,000d; h7.30-11am The Long Thanh Gallery (www.longthanhart. & 2-4.30pm Mon-Fri, 8-11am Sat) Dr Alexandre com; 126 Ð Hoang Van Thu; h9am-7pm Mon-Fri) Yersin (1863–1943) founded Nha Trang’s Pas- showcases the work of Vietnam’s most SOUTH-CENTRAL COASTSOUTH-CENTRAL NHA TRANG teur Institute in 1895. He learned to speak prominent photographer and his extra- ACTIVITIES Vietnamese fl uently, introduced rubber and ordinary black-and-white images of everyday Vietnamese moments. Do Dien Khanh Gallery (www.ddk-gallery.com; 126B Ð Hong Bang; Central Nha Trang h8am-6pm Mon-Fri) has hauntingly beautiful portraits of Cham communities. æ Top Sights Alexandre Yersin Museum...... D1 Oceanographic Institute MUSEUM Do Dien Khanh Gallery ...... C4 (Vien Nghiem Cuu Bien; 1 Cau Da; admission Long Thanh Gallery ...... B1 15,000d; h6am-6pm) Floating in tanks in the Oceanographic Institute (a French colonial Ø Activities, Courses & Tours building) are colourful representatives of 1 Angel Dive ...... B6 squirming sea life and 60,000 jars of pickled 2 Funky Monkey...... B6 specimens. Highland Tours ...... (see 23) 3 Mama Linh ...... A5 2 Activities 4 Rainbow Divers...... A4 Diving Sailing Club Divers...... (see 24) Nha Trang is Vietnam’s most popular div- Shamrock Adventures ...... (see 1) ing destination. Visibility averages 15m, but Waves Watersports...... (see 21) can be as much as 30m, depending on the ÿ Sleeping season (late October to early January are 5 AP Hotel ...... C5 the worst times of year). There are some 6 Axar Hotel ...... A6 good drop-off s and small underwater caves 7 Ha Van Hotel ...... A6 to explore and an amazing variety of corals. 8 Hotel An Hoa...... B5 Among the colourful reef fi sh, stingrays are 9 Mai Huy...... B5 occasionally spotted. 10 Perfume Grass Inn...... B5 A full-day outing, including two dives and 11 Sao Mai Hotel...... A6 lunch, costs between US$40 and US$70. 12 Violet Hotel...... A5 Dive operators also off er a range of courses, recommended centres include the following: ú Eating 13 Artful Ca Phe...... C4 Angel Dive DIVING % 14 Au Lac...... C3 ( 352 2461; www.angeldivevietnam.info; 1/33 Ð Tran Quang Khai) 15 Kirin Restaurant...... B5 16 Lanterns ...... A5 Rainbow Divers DIVING Louisiane Brewhouse...... (see 21) ( %352 4351; www.divevietnam.com; 90A Ð Hung 17 Omar's Tandoori...... A5 Vuong) 18 Truc Linh 2 ...... A5 Sailing Club Divers DIVING 19 Veranda...... B5 ( %352 2788; www.sailingclubdivers.com; 72-74 Ð Tran Phu) û Drinking 20 Crazy Kim Bar...... A5 Other Activities 21 Louisiane Brewhouse...... D6 Waves Watersports WATERSPORTS Nghia Bia Hoi ...... (see 9) ( %090-544 7393; www.waveswatersports.com; 22 Oasis...... A6 Louisiane Brewhouse, 29 Ð Tran Phu) Windsurfi ng, 23 Red Apple Club ...... A5 sea kayaking, wakeboarding, water-skiing, 24 Sailing Club ...... D6 surfi ng and sailing lessons. $ $ $ $$ n- fi It’s It’s ) HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL

The fami- ) aiWs Booze aiW A new hotel tucked ) ers excellentfacilities, ff Still a popular party Still a popular party O Snorkelling trips from from trips Snorkelling ) nd great snorkelling and snorkelling nd great aiW fi at-screen TV, minibar and bath- at-screen TV, fl oating bars. oating aiW fl Violet Hotel Hotel Violet 352 7545; 34 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; r 290,000- Thien 34 Ð Nguyen 352 7545; 352 1655; [email protected]; 148/10 Ð Hung 148/10 [email protected]; 352 1655; 352 7553; [email protected]; 7H Quan [email protected]; 352 7553; 352 2314; www.violethotelnhatrang.com.vn; 12 www.violethotelnhatrang.com.vn; 352 2314; & information. bookings for ce ffi % % % % hard to beat this new hotel for location and Rooms are tastefully value for money. ished and facilities include a small courtyard swimming pool. Breakfast is also included. including but no window, tub. Cheaper rooms have balconies with distant sea have the VIPs views. ly here really make their guests feel at home. their guests feel at ly here really make Rooms are great value, meticulously clean and include cheaper fan options for those counting the dong. Vuong; r US$12; r US$12; Vuong; Tran, Ð Hung Vuong; r US$7-15; r US$7-15; Vuong; Ð Hung Tran, Ð Biet Thu; r 450,000-800,000d; Thu; r 450,000-800,000d; Ð Biet Axar Hotel Hotel Axar ( Mai Huy ( Hotel AP ( o ( 450,000d; 450,000d; away down a side alley. Rooms are spacious down a side alley. away and light and the trim is a cut above the competition, making it excellent value.

$ 352 8000; [email protected]; Ð Tran Phu) Tran Ð 352 8000; [email protected]; Get er a % HOTEL HOTEL ﬀ RAFTING ( air. air. It

ﬂ SWIMMING . From here, you can rent canoes or hire someone to to someone hire or canoes rent can you here, From . 9am-5pm) h THERMAL BATHS THERMAL Under French French Under ) 7am-7.30pm) h sh farm on Hon Mieu (Mieu Island) that’s also an impressive out- an impressive also Island) that’s Hon Mieu (Mieu on sh farm ﬁ aiW 352 2426; www.funkymonkeytour.com.vn; 75A Ð Hung Vuong) Ð Hung 75A www.funkymonkeytour.com.vn; 352 2426; % ( (entrance 50,000d) (entrance

352 2844; [email protected]; 23C Ð Biet Thu) 23C Ð Biet 352 2844; [email protected];

381 1163; www.consetre.com.vn; 100/16 Ð Tran Phu) Tran Ð 100/16 www.consetre.com.vn; 381 1163; % % ( (

can be combined with mountain shore islands around Nha Trang are renowned for their remarkably clear water. water. clear their remarkably for renowned are Trang Nha islands around shore Hon Mun, Hon Tam and Hon Mot. Tam Hon Hon Mun, ﬀ ﬀ aquarium Ha Van Hotel Ha Van

slides, shallow pools and fountains, Sleeping There’s a working a working There’s Virtually every hotel and travel company in town books island-hopping boat tours. tours. island-hopping boat books in town company and travel hotel every Virtually Idyllic Hon Tre (Bamboo Island) is the largest island in the area. You can get a boat a boat get can You area. island in the is the largest (Bamboo Island) Tre Hon Idyllic

090-515 0978; www.shamrockadventures.vn; Ð www.shamrockadventures.vn; 090-515 0978; 352 5454; www.in2vietnam.com; 3/2 Ð Tran Tran 3/2 Ð 352 5454; www.in2vietnam.com; 383 4939; www.thapbahotspring.com.vn; 25 www.thapbahotspring.com.vn; 383 4939; option. cruise (100,000d) with ‘live entertainment’ from the, er…Funky Monkey boy band. boy Monkey er…Funky the, from entertainment’ ‘live with (100,000d) cruise Khanh Hoa Tourist Information Mama Linh Linh Mama Con Se Tre Monkey Funky door The 71 o The 71 excur- and snorkelling cruises booze islands – these to 100,000d) just (from trips Boat backpackers. wildly popular with young sions – are TRIPPING THE BAY BY BOAT TRIPPINGBY THE BAY Note that the once-notorious hedonistic trips involving free ganja are no more, though no more, are ganja free involving trips hedonistic that the once-notorious Note and DJs with cheesy tradition the party continue others diving o to Bai Tru (Tru Beach) at the northern end of the island. You’ll You’ll the island. the northern end of at Beach) (Tru Tru Bai to paddle you out to the nearby islands of Hon Mun (Ebony Island) or Hon Yen (Swallow (Swallow Yen Hon or Island) Hon Mun (Ebony islands of the nearby out to you paddle Island).

US$13. This trip takes in remote and secluded beaches and bays far from the tourist crowd; crowd; the tourist from far and bays beaches and secluded remote in This trip takes o tourist the Contact lunch. including 349,000d, % % % deep down and dirty hot thermal at these mud baths. Also home to hot and cold mineral swimming pools (50,000d). Tran Quang Khai; per person inc lunch from US$35) US$35) inc lunch from Khai; per person Quang Tran tours Rafting Quang Khai; r US$22-32; Khai; r US$22-32; Quang Ngoc Son; from 100,000d; 100,000d; from Son; Ngoc biking. Hydro Hydro right on the beachfront.

( o (Ð Tran Phu; admission 40,000d; 40,000d; Phu; admission Tran (Ð 4 Phu Dong Water Park Park Water Phu Dong ( Thap Ba Hot Spring Center Spring Center Hot Thap Ba ( Whitewater Rafting Rafting Whitewater and show a welcome decorative management, this hotel strives to o higher standard of service than the local competition. The rooms are well-appointed and rooftophas an inviting restaurant-bar, an ice-cream counter in reception. there’s

SOUTH-CENTRALSLEEPINGNHA TRANG COAST

VIETNAM 862 863 Perfume Grass Inn HOTEL $$ Truc Linh 2 VIETNAMESE $$ ( %352 4286; www.perfume-grass.com; 4A Ð Biet (www.truclinhrest.vn; 21 Ð Biet Thu; dishes 40,000- Thu; r US$12-30; aiW) Consistently popular, 190,000d) The Truc Linh empire includes sev- this welcoming inn has rooms with a touch eral eateries in the heart of backpackerville. of character, particularly the pricier options Number 2 has a pretty garden setting and with wood panelling. Cheaper fan rooms in- serves authentic dishes at aff ordable prices. VIETNAM clude satellite TV and hot shower. VIETNAM Lang Nuong Phu Dong Hai San SEAFOOD $ Hotel An Hoa HOTEL $ (Ð Tran Phu; dishes 30,000-150,000d; h2pm-3am) It ( %352 4029; www.anhoahotel.com.vn; 64B/6 Ð Tran may be plastic chair fantastic, but the seafood Phu; r US$8-14; aiW) A reliable, friendly op- is fresh and delicious: choose from scallops, SOUTH-CENTRAL COASTSOUTH-CENTRAL NHA TRANG tion in budget alley. Has a variety of rooms – crab, prawns and lobster, all at market prices. EATING some fan-cooled, others larger with air-con. Au Lac VEGETARIAN $ Sao Mai Hotel HOTEL $ (28C Ð Hoang Hoa Tham; meals from 12,000d; v) ( %352 6412; [email protected]; 99 Ð A long-running I-can’t-believe-it’s-not-meat Nguyen Thien Thuat; dm US$4, r US$6-12; aiW) restaurant. Tasty and cheap. Budget crash pad with no-nonsense rooms and a rooftop terrace. Receptionist Mr Mao Kirin Restaurant VIETNAMESE $ Loc runs customised photographic tours. (1E Ð Biet Thu; dishes 20,000-120,000d) Colo- nial surrounds and authentic, aff ordable Vietnamese cuisine. 5 Eating Nha Trang is a diner’s delight, with a diverse Omar’s Tandoori INDIAN $$ mix of international fl avours. (89B Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; dishes 40,000-120,000d) For authentic Vietnamese food head Authentic curries plus tandoori specialities. away from the main strip; Dam Market (Ð Trang Nu Vuong) has good stalls, including Artful Ca Phe CAFE $ veggie options. (20A Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; mains 20,000-100,000d) Part photography gallery, part cafe, this place is ideal for a coff ee, juice or light bite. S Lanterns VIETNAMESE $$ (72 Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; dishes 35,000-178,000d) Drinking Predominantly Vietnamese fl avours, such as 6 braised pork in claypot, plus international Oasis BAR off erings for anyone who is riced out. Lan- (3 Ð Tran Quang Khai) Popular for cocktail- terns supports a local orphanage and off ers drinking and shisha-smoking, with happy cooking classes (US$18). hours rolling on from 4pm to midnight. The garden terrace is great for sporting events. Stays open until dawn. o Veranda INTERNATIONAL $$ (66 Ð Tran Phu; mains 40,000-120,000d) This styl- Sailing Club BAR ish little restaurant off ers a small menu of (72-74 Ð Tran Phu; i) Despite gentrifi cation, food with fl air, blending Vietnamese ingre- this remains the defi nitive Nha Trang night dients and global fl avours. Three-course set spot. Drinks are more expensive than in menus are on off er from just US$5, including other venues, so it takes awhile to fi ll up. a drink. Popular nights attract a cover charge. Louisiane Brewhouse INTERNATIONAL, BREWERY $$ SCrazy Kim Bar BAR (29 Ð Tran Phu; www.louisianebrewhouse.com. (www.crazykimbar.com; 19 Ð Biet Thu; iW) Busy vn; mains 50,000-350,000d; h7am-1am; is) bar that’s home to the ‘Hands off the Kids!’ Microbrewery with a pool and an eclectic campaign, which works to prevent pae- menu of Thai, Vietnamese and Japanese dophilia. Features regular themed party food. Great cakes and pastries too. nights, great music and profi ts go towards the cause. There’s a classroom for vulnerable street kids on the premises, and volunteer Lac Canh Restaurant VIETNAMESE $$ o English teachers are needed. (44 Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; dishes 30,000-150,000d) Locals fl ock here in numbers to fi re up the Louisiane Brewhouse BREWERY tabletop barbecues and grill their own ( %352 1948; 29 Ð Tran Phu; is) Homebrew, meats, squid, prawns, lobsters and more. Nha Trang-style. Elegant microbrewery with tick- ve ve h fi (www. 49/ 34/ Mon-Fri) Mon-Fri) h (Ð 23 Thang US$ US$ /daily/ /3 daily 382 6000) Jetstar 382 2266) taxis hr hr % from from 1 1 from from ( % ( (Ð Thai Nguyen; / / hr hr 352 6768; 91Ð Nguyen cost 20,000d for a short- % ve hours) and Buon MaThuot Mai Linh Mai fi ( 352 2982; www.thesinhtourist. ers cheaper connections, with % 9-24/15 8-23/12 (17 Ð Quang Trung; ff ( xe oms Nha Trang Taxi ve hours), these continuing on fi US$ frequent US$ frequent Getting Around Getting GettingThere & Away isce in 7am-10pm) the middle of town. ffi Open-bus tours are the best option for Mui Cyclos and / / Train Air Bus (85,000d, four hours). four (85,000d, Ne (four to to HCMC. Open buses also head to Dalat ( hours) and Hoi An (11 hours). ish ride. Hotels and cafes rent bicycles from 30,000d per day. Sinh Tourist Tourist Sinh Phia Nam Nha Trang bus station Nha Trang train station 8 Nha Trang is nowserved by Cam Ranh Airport, about 28km south of the city. Shuttle buses (40,000d) ply this route, leaving from the site of the old airport (near 86 two Phu) Ð Tran hours before scheduled departure times, taking about minutes. 40 8 Airlines Vietnam has10) buses (via Quy Nhon) to Danang. Regular buses head south to Phan Rang (40,000d, two hours), and HCMC (180,000d, 11 hours), including sleeper buses from 7pm. Buses also run to (100,000d, Dalat Changes travellers cheques and offers cash advances. charge 320,000d from the airport to a downtown destination, or only 190,000d in reverse. are safe and reliable. and safe are et o et vn; 2A Ð Biet Thu) Cheap local toursand open- tour buses. Vietcombank Thien Thuat) connects Nha Trang with HCMC (from 680,000d), Hanoi (from 1,700,000d) and Danang (from 980,000d) daily. o jetstar.com) 775,000d. starting at Hanoi /regular N/A N/A /regular N/A N/A hr hr hr hr BAR BAR 12/12 6/5 12/11 7/6 And

US$ regular US$ US$ frequent US$ Backpacker are. ATMs ﬁ ) i shots andowing 352 2844; 23C ﬂ % ( 382 2355; Phu) 10 Ð Tran Probably the cheapest Probably 352 4477; www.highland % ( % (4 Ð Le Loi) Le Ð (4 (

Information Danang 11hr Dalat 4hr Mui Ne 5hr DESTINATION CAR/MOTORBIKE HCMC BUS 10hr TRAIN AIR

TRANSPORT CONNECTIONS WITH NHA TRANG There have been a number of reports reports number of been a have There with (laced buckets cocktail dodgy of the rounds doing drugs) moonshine or on what an eye Keep and clubs. in bars them or avoid the bucket into goes night your want don’t – you completely or robbery. illness end in paranoia, to BUCKET OF WHAT? Nha Trang has dozens of internet cafes and beer in Nha Trang, including a light lager beer in Nha Trang, brown beer. and a darker Medical consultations and vaccinations. Pasteur Institute Institute Pasteur Ð Biet Thu) Famed for its raucous boat tours, Mama Linh can also arrange trips around the province and the highlands. Main post office post Main tourstravel.com; 54G Nguyen Thien Thuat) Af- fordable tours to the Central Highlands. Tours Boat Linh’s Mama 8 Though Nha Trang is generally a safe place, be very careful on the beach during the day (theft) and at night (robbery). Pickpocketing is a peren- nial problem. Bags with valuables left behind bars for ‘safekeeping’ are regularly relieved of cash and phones. Drive-by bag snatching is on the rise. (7G/3 Ð Hung Vuong) Ð Hung (7G/3 Nghia Bia Hoi (54H Ð Nguyen Thien Thuat; Thuat; Thien (54H Ð Nguyen note the warning about cocktail buckets above. most hotels and bars have free wi- Red Apple Red Club an inviting swimming pool and a privatean inviting strip of sand. indie anthems. party HQ with cheap beer, party cheap beer, HQ with Highland Tours Highland widespread too. widespread

SOUTH-CENTRAL8NHA TRANG COAST

VIETNAM 864 865 C Courses Mui Ne A Taste of Vietnam COOKING % 062 / POP 15,000 ( %091-665 5241; [email protected]; Once upon a time, Mui Ne was an isolated Sunshine Beach Resort, 82 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; stretch of sand, but it was too beautiful to US$20-25) Learn the secrets of Vietnamese be ignored and it’s now a string of resorts. cuisine with a cooking class by the beach. VIETNAM Mercifully, most of these are low-rise and VIETNAM set amid pretty gardens by the sea. The area 4 Sleeping is defi nitely moving upmarket, as more exclusive resorts open their doors, but there is o Mui Ne Backpackers GUESTHOUSE $ ( %384 7047; www.muinebackpackers.com; 88 SOUTH-CENTRAL COASTSOUTH-CENTRAL MUI NE still a surfer vibe evident. SIGHTS Mui Ne is the adrenalin capital of south- Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; dm US$6-10, r US$20-60; ern Vietnam. Surf’s up from August to De- aiWs) Highly popular, sociable place cember. Windsurfi ng and kitesurfi ng are with hospitable Aussie management. You’ll huge here. It’s also the ‘Sahara’ of Vietnam, fi nd smart four-bed dorms and fully reno- with the most dramatic sand dunes in the vated private rooms. region looming large. Indochina Dreams BOUTIQUE HOTEL $$ ( %384 7271; www.indochinadream.com; 74 Ð Nguy- Sights 1 en Dinh Chieu; r US$40-55; aiWs) Expanding Sand Dunes BEACH place in extensive gardens where the newer Mui Ne is known for its enormous sand bungalows are fi nished in local stone. The dunes, be sure to try the sand-sledding. The swimming pool is a great place to unwind. Fairy Spring (Suoi Tien) is a stream that fl ows through a patch of the dunes and rock Bien Dua Resort GUESTHOUSE $ formations near town. Also nearby are a red (Coconut Beach; %384 7241; www.biendua stream, a market and a fi shing village. Four- resort.com; 136 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; r US$10-20; wheel-drive tours of the dunes are popular. aiW) Intimate, friendly French-run place with bungalow-style rooms that are entic- Po Shanu Cham Tower TEMPLE ing value for the prime beachfront location. (Km 5; admission 5000d; h7.30-11.30am & 1.30- Budget fan-cooled rooms are available too. 4.30pm) On Route 706 heading towards Phan Thiet, the small Po Shanu Cham Tower Rang Garden Bungalow HOTEL $ occupies a hill with sweeping views of Phan ( %374 3638; 233A Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; r Thiet, including the boat-fi lled estuary, and a US$10-30; aiWs) New in 2011, this off ers cemetery fi lled with candy-like tombstones. seriously smart rooms around a generously proportioned pool. 2 Activities Thai Hoa Mui Ne Resort HOTEL $$ Jibes KITESURFING, WINDSURFING ( %384 7320; www.thaihoaresort.com; 56 Ð Huynh ( %384 7405; www.windsurf-vietnam.com; 90 Ð Thuc Khang; r US$20-50; aiW) Popular, attrac- Nguyen Dinh Chieu) A watersports mecca, tive bungalows fronting a spacious garden. off ering lessons and renting state-of-the- art gear such as windsurfers, surfboards, Lu Hoang Guesthouse HOTEL $ kitesurfers and kayaks. ( %350 0060; 106 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; r US$15- 20; aiW) Welcoming hosts and lovingly Sankara Kitesurfing Academy KITESURFING decorated rooms, some with seaviews and ( %091-491 0607; www.kiteschoolmuine.com; 78 Ð breezy balconies. Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Based at ultra-hip Sankara, this place off ers kitesurfi ng and equipment Eating rentals. 5 Venture beyond the Km 14 mark and there Vietnam Kitesurfing are a host of seafront shacks that serve Tours KITESURFING, SURFING aff ordable seafood (mains 30,000d to ( %090-946 9803; www.vietnamkitesurfi ngtours. 80,000d) from sundown. com; 117C Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu) This company takes you to parts others cannot reach. Day o Lam Tong VIETNAMESE $ trips cost US$80 and two-day trips start at (92 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; dishes 25,000-75,000d) US$180. It doesn’t look like much but this family-run beachfront restaurant is great value. Fresh

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Ð Huynh Hoi Tinh Pagoda Market cient service. cient ffi Freshly brewed draft Freshly 2 ers some Czech and in- ) ff Vietnam’s Vietnam’s 04 km 04 0 2 miles ) 12 W W Traditional Vietnamese cui- Traditional 14 ü 4 10 13 C C 5 Phat Hamburgers Phat Hamburgers Drinking 9 Pagoda 6 374 3502; 253 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; burgers Dinh Chieu; burgers 253 Ð Nguyen 3502; 374 Phuoc Thien S E A er. Expect and an atmospheric setting er. ff 1 3 S O U T H % sine under a breezy thatched roof with reasonable prices and e attentive service. attentive The menu is predominantly Asian – with Vietnamese, Chinese and Thai tastes on o 50,000-75,000d; 50,000-75,000d; 6 Station DJ Chieu; Dinh Ð Nguyen (120C Hoang Vu Vu Hoang 40,000-90,000d) Dinh Chieu; dishes (121 Ð Nguyen Vien Hoa Brauhaus Dinh Chieu; mains Ð Nguyen 2A (www.hoavien.vn; 50,000-150,000d; o ( Restaurant Family Peaceful Dinh Chieu; dishes 53 Ð Nguyen Gia Quan; (Yen 30,000-70,000d) popular late-night spot in Mui Ne, with a Ne, popular late-night spot in Mui resident DJ and dastardly drink promotions. Gets going after 10pm. ternational dishes, as well as a dizzying ar- of live seafood. ray Pilsner Urquell is the big draw, though the is the big draw, Pilsner Urquell huge restaurant o mark, La Taverna has delicious thin-crust has delicious mark, La Taverna pastas. Also o pizzas and homemade fresh seafood and ItalianVietnamese faves, vino. are available here in a variety of shapes and are available Phatarella, including cashew-nut sizes. Try pesto and mozzarella cheese. C H I N A 707 15 $$ ITALIAN ITALIAN B B

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DJ Station...... C1 Fun Key...... (see 13) Info Café ...... C1 Wax ...... C1 Peaceful Family Restaurant...... B1 Phat Hamburgers...... C1 Hoa Vien Brauhaus...... A2 Hoang Vu...... C1 La Taverna ...... C1 Lam Tong ...... (see 6) Mui Ne Backpackers ...... C1 Rang Garden Bungalows ...... (see 10) Thai Hoa Mui Ne Resort...... D1 Bien Dua Resort...... C1 Indochina Dreams ...... (see 1) Lu Hoang Guesthouse...... C1 Sankara Kitesurfing Academy...... C1 Sinh Tourist...... C1 Taste of Vietnam ...... (see 1) Vietnam Kitesurfing Tours...... C1 Jibes...... (see 6) 1 7 5 2 3 8 9 6 Drinking Eating Sleeping Activities, Courses & Tours 4 11

15 12 13 14 10

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50,000-150,000d; 50,000-150,000d; o ( seafood is popular and cheap, so the place and busy with a mix of travellers is always locals.

SOUTH-CENTRALDRINKINGMUI NE COAST

VIETNAM 866 867 Info Café CAFE $ Hiking, diving and deserted beaches are all (241 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; drinks 20,000-50,000d; a big draw. h7am-10pm; W) Travellers are wild about More than three-quarters of the land area the coff ee here, which comes in all styles in the island chain is part of Con Dao Na- and fl avours. Also a reliable spot for travel tional Park, which protects Vietnam’s most info. important sea turtle nesting grounds. VIETNAM VIETNAM Fun Key BAR 1 Sights (124 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; W) New in 2011, this Your entrance fees for Phu Hai should be is another ‘in’ spot, with the backpacker valid for the other sights. crowd looking for the Ko Pha Ngan experi- CON DAO ISLANDS COASTSOUTH-CENTRAL CON 8 ence in Mui Ne. Phu Hai Prison HISTORIC BUILDING (admission 20,000d; h7-11.30am & 1-5pm Mon- Wax BAR Sat) The largest of the 11 jails on the island, (68 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; W) Wax has happy this prison dates from 1862. It houses sev- hours until midnight, when it lights up the eral enormous detention buildings, one with beach bonfi re. about 100 shackled and emaciated manne- quins that are all too lifelike. 8 Information The notorious cells dubbed tiger cages A great resource for information on Mui Ne is were used by the French to incarcerate near- www.muinebeach.net. ly 2000 political prisoners. Internet and wi-fi is very wildly available and there are several ATMs. Revolutionary Museum HISTORIC BUILDING Main post office (348 Ð Huynh Thuc Khang) ( h7-11am & 1.30-5pm Mon-Sat) This museum Sinh Tourist (144 Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu) Oper- has exhibits on Vietnamese resistance to ates out of Mui Ne Resort, booking open-tour the French, communist opposition to the buses. Republic of Vietnam, and the treatment of political prisoners. An impressive-looking 8 Getting There & Around new Con Dao Museum is located at the eastern end of Ð Nguyen Hue; exhibits from Mui Ne is connected to Hwy 1 via branch roads to the Revolutionary Museum will be moved the north and south but few regular buses serve the town. here once it opens its doors. Open-ticket buses are the best option for Mui Coastline BEACHES Ne, try Sinh Tourist for destinations, includ- Bai Dam Trau is arguably the best all-round ing HCMC (90,000d, six hours), Nha Trang beach, a secluded cove on the southern end (90,000d, fi ve hours) and Dalat (100,000d, of the island. Other options include tiny Bai fi ve hours). There are also night buses to HCMC , though it’s exposed only during low (160,000d), Nha Trang (160,000d) and Hoi An Nhat (200,000d). tide. Bai Loi Voi is another possibility. Local buses run from nearby Phan Thiet to Mui Ne, or take a xe om (60,000d). Mai Linh 2 Activities (%389 8989) operates metered taxis. Xe om Con Dao off ers the most pristine marine en- charge 20,000d to 40,000d for rides up and vironment in the country. Diving is possible down the coast. year round, but March to September is best. Two good dive operators are based here: Con Dao Islands Dive! Dive! Dive! DIVING ( %383 0701; www.dive-condao.com; 36 Ð Ton Duc % 064 / POP 5500 Isolated from the mainland, the Con Dao Thang) Islands are one of the star attractions in Rainbow Divers DIVING Vietnam. Long the prison of political pris- ( %090 557 7671; www.divevietnam.com; Six Senses oners and undesirables, this place is now Con Dao) turning heads thanks to its striking natural There are lots of treks around forested Con beauty. Con Son, the largest of this chain of Son Island; it’s necessary to take a national 15 islands and islets, is ringed with lovely park guide (150,000d to 250,000d). Trek- beaches, coral reefs and scenic bays and king destinations include Bamboo Lagoon remains partially covered in thick forests. (Dam Tre), Ong Dung Bay and former fruit plantations at So Ray. ar- 7am- e or e The PALACE ff h TRAIN TRIP TRAIN NOTABLE BUILDING NOTABLE 6.30am-5pm) h uenced villa was ne, but nights can fl fi owers, not rice. fl Southeast of central Alice in Wonderland in Alice ve scheduled trains to Trai ve scheduled trains to Trai fi Sights & Activities This art deco-in There are Despite a fraught history, the central fraught history, Despite a Looking for big nature? Check Looking Cat out for big nature? Dalat is small enough to remain charm- Dalat is small enough to Ð Trieu Viet Vuong; admission 10,000d; admission 10,000d; Vuong; Viet Ð Trieu 063 / POP 205,000 / ELEV 1475M ff Mat (return ticket 100,000d, 30 minutes,Mat and 4.05pm. 8km) every 7.45am between day constructed in 1933 and was one of three in Dalat. Thepalaces Bao Dai kept decor has Dalat, this is a funky place that’s earned the place that’s Dalat, this is a funky from local residents. Crazy House moniker notable for its It’s Crémaillère, located 2km east of the centre, Dalat and Thap that linked is a cog railway Cham-Phan Rang from 1928 to 1964. The line can ride 8km You is now a tourist attraction. village, where Mat down the tracks to Trai you can visit the ornate Linh Phuoc Pagoda. Bao Dai’s Summer Palace Summer Palace Dai’s Bao (o Crémaillère Crémaillère Trung; Lat; 1 Ð Quang Da (Ga Tien National Park, where there are gibbons, where Park, Tien National elusive tigers and rhinos. crocodiles and and safe and easy to travel, highlands are Dalat is a perfect heat. respite from the 1 something in the cool moun- there’s Perhaps tain air that fosters the distinctly artistic vibe that veers towards cute kitsch in Dalat. House Crazy Hang Nga s 30,000d; Thuc Khang; admission (3 Ð Huynh d US$35-70) US$25-57, tion for travellers. There’s a rugged to charm There’s for travellers. tion and valleys, villages its hill-tribe waterfalls roads. and winding Dalat % lowland Vietnam. Dalat is the alter-ego of The of cool instead weather is spring-like are tropical hot. Days be chilly. The town is dotted with elegant The town is dotted be chilly. and farms are thick villas, French-colonial and with strawberries 5pm) chitecture: you can perch inside a gira get lost in a giant spiderweb. ing, and the surrounding countryside is waterfalls,blessed with lakes, evergreen forests and gardens. The town is a big draw Le Petit whom it’s for domestic tourists, for a honeymoon of capital and the City Paris, into one. Eternal Spring all rolled

$ $$ $$ $$ The The HOTEL HOTEL ights ights HOTEL HOTEL fl Air Air VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE 7-11.30am h (Ð Le Duan) The curious tri- ights daily from ) fl 383 0669; www.con are available at hotels fi % ( Vietin Bank Vietin aiW -the-beaten track destina- ff ers three ers ff sh and seafood are fresh from fi 383 1831; www.vasco.com.vn; 44 (www.airmekong.info) has daily ers an o Small hotel in the heart of town % ff )

Sleeping & Eating & Sleeping ( Getting There & Around Information National Park HQ Park National

363 0308; 7 Ð Tran Phu; r 200,000-550,000d; r 200,000-550,000d; Phu; Tran 7 Ð 363 0308; 383 1555; condaocamping.com; Ð Nguyen Duc Nguyen Ð condaocamping.com; 383 1555; There is a branch of Internet access and wi- Boat trips (2,000,000d to 5,000,000d per per 5,000,000d to (2,000,000d trips Boat ce. Bicycles (US$2) and motorbikes (from ﬃ % % and seafood hotpots. ve spices daopark.com.vn; 29 Thi Ð Vo Sau; angular bungalows may look more holiday may angular bungalows retreat, but theyheavenly camp than are Frills the beachfront location. great value for minibar include satellite TV, (if not thrills) with a viewand showers of the night sky. Thuan; r 600,000d; r 600,000d; Thuan; that’s run by a friendly family who speak run by a friendly that’s German. and Rooms are English, French air-con, TVbasic but good value, including and hot showers. Ocean-fresh treats, including squid grilled inOcean-fresh treats, including ﬁ The undulating landscape that once shel- Chi Minh tered VC soldiers down the Ho o Trail CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

8 Vasco

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( 4 Camping Dao Con & 1.30-5pm) has information about excursions hikes. and Mekong Ð Nguyen o Hue) HCMC from around 900,000d one-way. plentiful bubbling tanks. with two ATMs. However, these are notorious for running out of dong, and the bank does not change foreign currency, so bring plenty of cash with you. town. in US$7) are available for rent from hotels. too. The tiny airport is about 15km from the town centre. can You hitch a ride to town onhotel shuttle minibuses for about 60,000d. canday) be arranged through the national park o

CENTRALSLEEPINGDALAT HIGHLANDS& EATING

VIETNAM 868 869

EASY DOES IT

For many travellers, the highlight of their trip to the central highlands is an off -the- beaten-track motorcycle tour with an Easy Rider. The fl ip side to the popularity of the Easy Riders is that now everyone claims to be one. In central Dalat, you can’t walk down the street without being invited (sometimes harassed) for a tour. VIETNAM Rider-guides can be found in hotels and cafes in Dalat. Read testimonials from past VIETNAM clients. Check the bike over. Test-drive a rider fi rst before committing to a longer trip. Then discuss the route in detail – for scenery the new coastal highways that link Dalat to Mui Ne and Nha Trang, plus the old road to the coast via Phan Rang are wonderful. Rates CENTRALDALAT HIGHLANDS asked are US$20 for a day tour, or US$50 per day for longer journeys. SLEEPING

not changed in decades and retains a quirky Le Phuong Hotel HOTEL $ appeal. ( %382 3743; [email protected]; 80 Ð Bao Dai’s Summer Palace is set in a pine Nguyen Chi Thanh; r 250,000-330,000d; aiW) A grove, 2km southwest of the city centre. new family-run hotel on a busy accommodation strip with large rooms, oversized beds Lam Dong Museum MUSEUM and tasteful bathrooms. (4 Ð Hung Vuong; admission 10,000d; h7.30- 11.30am & 1.30-4.30pm Mon-Sat) This hillside Hoan Hy Hotel HOTEL $ museum displays ancient artefacts and pot- ( %351 1288; [email protected]; 16 Ð 3 tery, as well as costumes and musical instru- Thang 2; r US$15; iW) New hotel above a bak- ments of local ethnic minorities. It’s located ery where the rooms are serious value for 2.5km east of the centre. money and well-equipped.

4 Sleeping 5 Eating There are vegetarian food stalls and cheap o Dreams Hotel HOTEL $ eats in the market area. ( %383 3748; [email protected]; 151 Ð Phan Dinh Phung; r US$20-25; iW) Quite simply the V Cafe INTERNATIONAL $$ friendliest and most comfortable place to (1/1 Ð Bui Thi Xuan; dishes 25,000-79,000d) A trav- stay in Dalat. The buff et breakfast spread is ellers’ favourite, this friendly restaurant serves legendary. Dreams includes a sauna, steam a mix of Asian and Western mains, most with room and hot tub, free for guests from 4pm sides of mash and fresh vegetables. There’s a to 7pm. There’s a second branch at 164B of- live duet performing here most nights. fering more of the same. Art Cafe VIETNAMESE $$ Thi Thao Hotel HOTEL $$ (70 Ð Truong Cong Dinh; dishes 25,000-75,000d; (Gardenia Hotel; %383 3333; www.thithaohotel. v) Owned by an artist, this elegant eatery com; 29 Ð Phan Boi Chau; r from US$25; aiW) has intimate tables and soft lighting. The Off ers the best-value style in town, rooms menu features Vietnamese dishes with a are new and spacious with superb bath- twist, including plenty of vegetarian options. rooms and a fl at-screen TV. All very tasteful. Da Quy VIETNAMESE $ Hotel Chau Au – Europa HOTEL $ (Wild Sunfl ower; 49 Ð Truong Cong Dinh; dishes ( %382 2870; [email protected]; 76 Ð Nguyen Chi 25,000-65,000d) With a sophisticated ambi- Thanh; r US$10-20; aiW) A likable, homely ence but unsophisticated prices, this place hotel run by a delightful owner. Choose a earns consistently good reviews from trav- room at the front with a balcony for views ellers of all tastebuds. Try the traditional over Dalat. claypot dishes with fi sh or shrimp.

Trung Cang Hotel HOTEL $ An Lac VEGETARIAN $ ( %382 2663; www.thesinhtourist.vn; 4A Ð Bui Thi (71 Ð Phan Dinh Phung; meals from 10,000d; v) Xuan; r US$15-25; iW) Smart Sinh estab- There’s an English menu here, and options lishment with tastefully decorated rooms, range from noodle soups to banh bao or including local silks, and good tour and steamed rice-fl our dumplings stuff ed with a transport information. savoury fi lling.

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CENTRALDRINKINGDALAT HIGHLANDS

VIETNAM 870 871 ates a shuttle bus (35,000d, 30 minutes) timed Central Dalat around ﬂ ights. Taxis cost about US$12. Ø Activities, Courses & Tours Long-distance buses leave from the station (Ð 1 Groovy Gecko Adventure Tours...... B3 3 Thang 2) about 1km south of the city centre. 2 Phat Tire Ventures...... C1 Services run to HCMC (110,000d to 160,000d, six to seven hours), Nha Trang (70,000d to ÿ Sleeping 100,000d, new road four hours, old road seven VIETNAM VIETNAM 3 Dreams Hotel...... B2 hours) and Buon Ma Thuot (from 85,000d, four 4 Dreams Hotel (Northern hours). Open-tour minibuses to Saigon, Mui Ne Branch)...... B1 and Nha Trang can be booked at travellers’ cafes. 5 Hoan Hy Hotel...... B3 Full-day tours with motorbike guides (from CENTRALAROUND HIGHLANDS DALAT 6 Hotel Chau Au – Europa ...... B4 US$10) are a great way to see the area, as many 8 of the sights lie outside Dalat’s centre. Many 7 Le Phuong Hotel ...... A4 hotels oﬀ er bicycle and motorbike hire. For a taxi 8 Thi Thao Hotel ...... C3 call Mai Linh (%352 1111). 9 Trung Cang Hotel ...... D3

ú Eating 10 An Lac...... A3 Around Dalat 11 Art Cafe ...... B3 Waterfalls WATERFALLS 12 Chocolate Cafe ...... B3 Dalat’s waterfalls are obviously at their 13 Da Quy...... B3 gushing best in the wet season but still fl ow 14 Food Stalls ...... B4 during the dry. Avoid over-commercialised 15 V Cafe...... C3 Prenn and Cam Ly falls. Datanla Falls (admission 5000d) is 7km û Drinking southeast of Dalat off Hwy 20. It’s a nice 16 Hangout...... B3 walk through the rainforest and a steep hike 17 Saigon Nite...... A3 downhill to the falls. You can also take a bobsled ride (return 40,000d) here. Pongour Falls (admission 6000d), 55km ing (from US$37). Bike trips include two-day away in the direction of HCMC, are beau- (US$169) rides to Mui Ne. tiful any time but spectacular in the rainy Sinh Tourist (%382 2663; www.thesinhtourist. season when they form a full semicircle. vn; 4A Ð Bui Thi Xuan) Tours and open-tour bus Dambri Falls (admission 10,000d), 75km bookings. from Dalat, are the tallest falls (90m) in the Vietcombank (%351 0586; 6 Ð Nguyen Thi area – you can trek down and take the cable Minh Khai) Exchanges cash and travellers car back up. cheques. You’ll need your own wheels to access these waterfalls. 8 Getting There & Around Vietnam Airlines (%383 3499; www.vietnam Lang Bian Mountain NATURE RESERVE airlines.com; 2 Ð Ho Tung Mau) has daily serv- (Nui Lam Vien; admission 10,000d) With fi ve vol- ices to HCMC (680,000d), Danang (980,000d) canic peaks ranging in altitude from 2100m and Hanoi (1,700,000d). Lien Khuong Airport is to 2400m, Lang Bian Mountain, 13km north 30km south of the city. Vietnam Airlines oper- of Dalat, makes a scenic trek (three to four

OFF THE BEATEN TRACK IN THE CENTRAL HIGHLANDS

It’s easy to get oﬀ the beaten track in the wonderfully scenic highlands. This is a great part of the country to see from the back of a motorbike. The upgrading of the historic Ho Chi Minh Trail has made it easier to visit out-of- the-way places such as Kon Tum, one of the friendliest cities in Vietnam. Buon Ma Thuot is the major city in the region, but the biggest buzz you’ll get is from the coﬀ ee beans. Nearby Yok Don National Park (%050-378 3049; www.yokdonnational park.vn) is home to 38 endangered mammal species, including plenty of elephants and a handful of tigers. Stunning waterfalls in this area include Gia Long and Dray Nur Falls along the Krong Ana River. Be sure to also explore Cat Tien National Park (see p 873 ), southwest of Dalat.

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6 6 66 Ho Chi Minh City about 12km northwestabout are at the of Dalat, Langbase of Bian Mountain. Ho Chi Minh City (HCMC) is a metropolis (HCMC) is a City Chi Minh Ho are not just talkingon the move, and we Saigon is Yes, motorbikes. about the city’s Vietnam dizzying, at its most a high-octane of commerce and culturecity that has driv- en the whole country forward with its limit- less energy and booming economy. das or teeming markets, past ramshackle and spices, beforewooden shops selling silk fast-forwarding into the future beneath sky- malls. Thescrapers and mammoth ghosts (SAIGON) % HO CHI MINH CITY MINH HO CHI hours from Lat from hours Views Village). top the from are tremendous.

HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)

VIETNAM 872 873

CAT TIEN NATIONAL PARK

One of the outstanding natural spaces in Vietnam, Unesco-listed Cat Tien National Park (%063-366 9228; www.cattiennationalpark.vn; admission 50,000d; h7am-10pm) comprises an amazingly biodiverse area of lowland tropical rainforest. The hiking, mountain biking and birdwatching are outstanding. Fauna in the park includes 326 bird species, 100 mammals (including elephants) VIETNAM and 79 reptiles. Tiny numbers (as few as eight) of Javan rhinoceros still exist here, and leopards are also believed to be present, though visitors rarely see the larger mammals.

Call ahead for reservations, as the park can accommodate only a limited number of HO CHI (SAIGON) MINH CITY visitors. Sight & Activities Cat Tien National Park can be explored on foot, by mountain bike, by 4WD and also by boat along the Dong Nai River. There are many well-established hiking trails in the park, though you’ll need a guide (from 250,000d), who should be booked in advance. Trips to the Crocodile Swamp (Bau Sau; entry 100,000d, guide fee 300,000d, boat trip 300,000d), taking in a three-hour jungle trek, are popular. Night safaris (300,000d) are another option. Dao Tien Endangered Primate Species Centre (www.go-east.org; entry incl boat ride 150,000d; h8am & 2pm) is located on an island in the Dong Nai River. This rehabilitation centre hosts gibbons, langurs and lorises that have been confi scated as pets or from traffi ckers; the eventual goal is to release the primates back into the wild. Wild Gibbon Trek ([email protected]; per person US$60, maximum 4 people) runs daily and involves a 4am start to get out to the gibbons in time for their dawn chorus and a fully guided tour of the Primate Species Centre. Book ahead. Sleeping & Eating Avoid weekends and holidays if possible. Cat Tien National Park (%063-366 9228; small tent/big tent 200,000/300,000d, bungalow from 500,000d; a) off ers basic bungalow rooms and tented accommodation close to the park headquarters. There are two small restaurants (meals 35,000-200,000d) here. Practicalities Cat Tien is 125km north of HCMC and 175km south of Dalat; turn off Hwy 20 at Tan Phu and it’s another 25km up a paved access road to the entrance. Buses between Dalat and HCMC pass the access road; ask for Vuon Quoc Gia Cat Tien. Waiting motorbikes (around 150,000d) will then take you to the park entrance. We’ve received mixed reviews about budget tours to Cat Tien. For a reputable customised birdwatching, bike or hiking tour, contact Sinhbalo Adventures (p 882 ). Bicycles are available for hire in the park, from 20,000d per day.

Reunification Palace HISTORIC BUILDING Jade Emperor Pagoda PAGODA (Dinh Thong Nhat; Map p875 ; Ð Nam Ky Khoi Nghia; (Phuoc Hai Tu or Chua Ngoc Hoang; Map p876 ; 73 Ð admission 30,000d; h7.30-11am & 1-4pm) Built Mai Thi Luu) Built in 1909, this a gem among in 1966 to serve as South Vietnam’s Presi- Chinese temples. It’s fi lled with statues of dential Palace, today this 1960s landmark phantasmal divinities and grotesque heroes, is known as the Reunifi cation Palace. The and the smoke of burning joss sticks fi lls the fi rst communist tanks crashed through the air. The statues represent characters from gates of this building on 30 April 1975 when both the Buddhist and Taoist traditions. Saigon surrendered to the North. The building is a timewarp, having been left just as it HCMC Museum MUSEUM looked on that momentous day. (Map p878 ; www.hcmc-museum.edu.vn; 65 Ð Ly Tu Trong; admission 15,000d; h8am-4pm) A grand, POOL COOKING COOKING MASSAGE Quan Am Am Quan Introductory )is the place to er inexpensive, ff , built in 1902 by 878 878 Phuoc An Hoi Quan , dedicated to Thien It’s not the classiest It’s Prepare three mains Prepare has a roof decorated tour the Saigon River. tour the Saigon River. This swimming pool has 3839 6697; 185 Ð Cong Quynh; 185 Ð Cong 3839 6697; 3825 8485; www.saigoncookingclass. % ; % all budget travellers head straightall budget travellers (12 Ð Lao Tu) (12 Ð Lao ; (184 Ð Hung Vuong) (184 Ð Hung ; rear, 55B Ð Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, District Thi Minh Khai, 55B Ð Nguyen ; rear,

O YADAW 880 Courses Sleeping Activities 878 875 nonsense massages performed by well- 3512 7246; www.vietnamcookery.com; 362/8 Ð www.vietnamcookery.com; 3512 7246; 10am & 2pm Tue-Sun) & 2pm 10am % 3; admission 14,000d) 14,000d) 3; admission with fantastic scenes, rendered in ceramic,with fantastic scenes, rendered and stories. from traditional Chinese plays per hr 50,000-60,000d) per hr 50,000-60,000d) classes and market visits. colonnades and a degree of art deco charm. Pagoda Hau, the Chinese of the sea, and the goddess Hau, fabulously ornamental Ung Van Khiem, Binh Thanh District) Binh Khiem, Van Ung 4 Virtually to the Pham Ngu Lao area. Workers’ Club Workers’ (Map p C Class Cooking Saigon (Map p h Centre Cookery Vietnam ( 2 p (Map Bach Dang jetty arrange a boat to per hour, Small boats cost around US$10 to US$30. larger boats US$15 Traditional Vietnamese Institute Massage (Map p Pagoda no- trained blind masseurs. act in town, but it does o com; 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, District 1; class US$39; 1; class District Trung, Hai Ba 74/7 com; and one dessert from Hoa with the chefs A market visit is optional. Tuc. the Fujian Chinese congregation. the Fujian Mieu; 710 Ð Nguyen Trai) Ð Nguyen Mieu; 710

TEMPLE CHURCH MUSEUM LE THANH TO 1-9pm 1-9pm cent ﬁ h oor, the oor, ﬂ peaks at peaks (Ba Mieu or Pho ; 36 Ð Ho ; 45 Ð Truong Dinh; Truong ; 45 Ð Mass 9.30am Sun) 9.30am Mass Bitexco Bitexco 878 Remote and rarely used by foreigners the Le Thanh–O Yadaw Yadaw Thanh–O the Le foreigners by used rarely and Remote h 875 ; Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; ; Ð Nguyen 876 (Map p 8-11am & 1.30-4.30pm Tue- & 1.30-4.30pm 8-11am

border border h Open 7am to 5pm. Visas are available on arrival in Cambodia. on arrival available are Visas 5pm. 7am to Open A splash of southern India’s A splash of southern India’s After entering Cambodia at O Yadaw, minibuses (30,000r or US$7.50) or or US$7.50) (30,000r minibuses Yadaw, at O Cambodia entering After ; Ð Han Thuyen; Thuyen; ; Ð Han Thien Hau Pagoda 878 the Cambodian side. on transport ordable This impressive collection is housed in a ﬀ 262m and dwarfs all around it. From the From it. all around 262m and dwarfs on the 48th Skydeck, Saigon views are extraordinary on a clear day. on a clear extraordinary are views Financial Tower Financial Opened in late 2010, the magni 2010, in late Opened Zapata–designed Carlos SKYHIGH SAIGON See p 130 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. in the other this border on crossing information for 130 p See border crossing links Pleiku with Ban Lung, Cambodia. From Pleiku local buses leave leave buses local Pleiku From Cambodia. Lung, Pleiku with Ban links crossing border bus another where 80km), hours, two (30,000d, Moc Den for day a times several the border. to 15km) heads (20,000d, the border At on Moving arrange to it easier should make early Departing Ban Lung. to head (US$15) motorbikes a Getting to the to the Getting GETTING TO CAMBODIA: Tung Mao; admission 200,000d; 200,000d; Mao; admission Tung Mon-Fri, 10am-10pm Sat & Sun) Sat 10am-10pm Mon-Fri, 7.30am-7.30pm) Sun) stunning Sino-French building constructed stunning Sino-French artefactsin 1929 and displays from the Dong Cham and Khmer cultures. Son, Funan, Built between 1877 and 1883, this cathedral 1877 Built between been beamed in directly from it’s looks like Romanesque arches and twin Normandy. 40m-high towers create an imposing facade. CHOLON Cholon, 5km southwest of the centre, forms Chinatown. The district has athe city’s wealth of wonderful Chinese temples including (Chua Ba Mariamman; Map p (Chua h Mariamman Hindu Temple Temple Mariamman Hindu (Map p Notre Dame Cathedral Cathedral Dame Notre admission 15,000d; 15,000d; admission History Museum History Museum Lich Su; Map p Tang (Bao neoclassical structure built in 1885, HCMC’s neoclassical structure built in 1885, HCMC’s singularly beautiful and museum is a city impressive building. It tells the story of the artefacts, through archaeological city ceram- curios. maps and ics, old city colour in Saigon, this temple is dedicated to goddess Mariamman. the Hindu

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PHAM NGU LAO Bich Duyen Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ Saigon’s backpacker precinct has more than (Map p880 ; %3837 4588; bichduyenhotel@yahoo. 100 places to stay, most between US$10 and com; 283/4 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$17-25; aiW) US$35, and even the odd dorm. There are This welcoming66 place on6 a quiet lane has ex- also some excellent midrange deals here, cellent rooms; pay more for the luxury of a with most minihotels priced at US$25 to window. Showers are excellent. US$55. Some hotels with D Pham Ngu Lao or D Bui Vien addresses are located in alleys Diep Anh GUESTHOUSE $ off those main streets. (Map p880 ; %3836 7920; [email protected]; 241/31 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$20; aiW) A step above most guesthouses, fi guratively and lit- o Giang & Son GUESTHOUSE $ erally (there are endless stairs), Diep Anh’s % (Map p880; 3837 7548; www.giangson. tall and narrow shape makes for light and netfi rms.com; 283/14 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; r US$16- airy upper rooms. The gracious staff ensure aiW A clean, comfortable and friend- 25; ) the rooms are kept in good nick. ly place on a surprisingly quiet alley. Tall and thin, with three rooms on each fl oor – An An Hotel HOTEL $$ the only downer is that there’s no elevator. (Map p880 ; %3837 8087; www.anan.vn; 40 Ð Bui It’s worth upgrading to a US$20 room for Vien; r US$40-50; aiW) Unassuming, unpre- a window. tentious and aff able, this skinny but smart midrange minihotel has well-proportioned o Hong Han Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ en-suite rooms with safety-deposit boxes (Map p880 ; %3836 1927; www.honghan.netfi rms. and in-room computers. com; 238 Ð Bui Vien; r US$20-25; aiW) Another guesthouse in the tall and skinny mode (sev- Beautiful Saigon 2 HOTEL $$ % en fl oors and no lift), Hong Han off ers style (Map p880; 3920 8929; www.beautifulsaigon2ho and comfort. The front rooms have thrilling tel.com; 40/19 Ð Bui Vien; s US$26-37, d $US29-42; aiW This new minihotel lurks down a views to the Bitexco Tower but the smaller ) back lane. Its deluxe rooms have balconies. rear rooms are quieter and cheaper. Free breakfast too.

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HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)

VIETNAM 876 877 Banh mi – sandwiches with a French Ð Nguyen Dinh Chieu; mains 28,000-50,000; v); look and a very Vietnamese taste – are sold Vegetarian (11 Ð Tran Nhat Duat; mains 30,000- by street vendors. They’re fresh baguettes 40,000; v) Justifi ably famous, atmospheric stuff ed with something resembling pâté old house that showcases imperial Hue cui- (don’t ask), pickled gherkins and various sine in a wonderful setting. Tib Express and other fi llings. Tib Vegetarian off er a cheaper, more relaxed

take on the same. VIETNAM DONG KHOI AREA PHAM NGU LAO AREA Huong Lai VIETNAMESE $$ S Mumtaz INDIAN $$

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120,000d) Set in the airy loft of an old HO CHI (SAIGON) MINH CITY mains 45,000-90,000d; h11am-11pm; v) Excel- French-era shop house, this is dining with lent service, pleasant surrounds and succu- a di ff erence. All of the staff are from dis- lent vegetarian options, tandoori dishes and advantaged families or are former street the greatest hits of both North and South children. A must for beautifully presented, Indian cuisine. The lunch buff et is a steal. traditional, Vietnamese food. Dinh Y VEGETARIAN $ Hoa Tuc VIETNAMESE $$ (Map p880 ; 171B Ð Cong Quynh; mains 12,000- (Map p878 ; %3825 1676; 74/7 ÐL Hai Ba Trung; 40,000d; v) Run by a friendly Cao Dai fam- mains 50,000-190,000d; h10.30am-10.30pm; Wn) ily, this humble eatery is in a very ‘local’ part Excellent Vietnamese cuisine in the trendy of PNL near Thai Binh Market. The food is courtyard of a former opium refi nery. Signa- delicious and cheap, plus there’s an English ture dishes include mustard leaves rolled with menu. crispy vegetables and shrimp. Pick up tricks at an in-house cooking class (p874 ). Mon Hue VIETNAMESE $ (o ff Map p880 ; 98 Ð Nguyen Trai; mains 29,000- DA KAO & AROUND 150,000d; h6am-11pm) Hue’s famous cuisine o Cuc Gach Quan VIETNAMESE $ is now available to HCMC’s discerning pro- (Map p876 ; %3848 0144; http://en.cucgachquan. letariat. This branch off ers a good introduc- com; 10 Ð Dang Tat; mains 50,000-200,000d; tion for travellers who don’t make it to the h9am-midnight) Cleverly renovated old villa old capital. with rustic-chic decor and delectable food that balances authentic fl avours of the S Sozo CAFE $ countryside with metropolitan presenta- (Map p880 ; www.sozocentre.com; 176 Ð Bui Vien; tion. Despite its tucked-away location in the bagels 40,000d; h7am-10.30pm Mon-Sat; W) A northernmost reaches of District 1, this is no classy little cafe ideal for excellent smooth- secret hideaway; book ahead. ies, doughy cinnamon rolls and other sweet treats. The cafe trains and employs poor, dis- o Pho Hoa VIETNAMESE $ advantaged Vietnamese. (260C Ð Pasteur; mains 45,000-50,000d; h6am- midnight) A contender for the title of Saigon’s 6 Drinking best pho restaurant, this long-running estab- Wartime Saigon was known for its riotous lishment is more upmarket than most but is nightlife. Liberation in 1975 put a real damp- defi nitely the real deal – as evidenced by its ener on evening activities, but the bars and popularity with regular Saigonese patrons. clubs have staged a comeback. However, periodic ‘crack-down, clean-up’ campaigns Banh Xeo 46A VIETNAMESE $ continue to calm the fun. (46A Ð Dinh Cong Trang; mains 25,000-50,000d) Action is concentrated around the Dong This renowned spot serves some of the best Khoi area, with everything from dives to banh xeo in town. These Vietnamese rice- designer bars. However, places in this area fl our pancakes stuff ed with bean sprouts, generally close around 1am while Pham Ngu prawns and pork (vegetarian versions avail- Lao rumbles on into the wee hours. able) are the stuff of legend. DONG KHOI AREA Tib VIETNAMESE $$ Many of Dong Khoi’s coolest bars double (www.tibrestaurant.com.vn); Hai Ba Trung (Map as restaurants (see Flow and Pacharan) or p876 ; %3829 7242; 187 Ð Hai Ba Trung; mains hover at the top of hotels. 60,000-240,000d; W); Express (Map p875 ; 162

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VIETNAM 878 879 Allez Boo BAR Dong Khoi Area (Map p880 ; 195 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; h7am-late) æ Top Sights Proudly displays its tropical kookiness on Bitexco Financial Tower...... C5 a prominent street corner: think bamboo- HCMC Museum...... A3 lined walls and a rattan-shaded bar. A merry -go-round of backpackers and the late-night æ Sights

action upstairs ensures its popularity. VIETNAM 1 Notre Dame Cathedral...... A2 Spotted Cow SPORTS BAR Ø Activities, Courses & Tours (Map p880 ; 111 Ð Bui Vien; h11am-midnight) Aus- 2 Buffalo Tours...... C4 sie-run sports bar with lots of drink specials

3 Exotissimo ...... D3 and a cow-print fetish. HO CHI (SAIGON) MINH CITY Saigon Cooking Class...... (see 6) Bobby Brewers CAFE ú Eating (Map p880 ; www.bobbybrewers.com; 45 Ð Bui Hoa Tuc...... (see 6) Vien; Wn) Contemporary cafe set over three 4 Huong Lai...... B3 fl oors, off ering juices, sandwiches, pastas and salads, plus movies upstairs. û Drinking 5 Lush ...... D1 Entertainment 6 Vasco's...... C2 3 Pick up the Word HCMC, Asialife HCMC or ý Entertainment the Guide to fi nd out what’s on during your 7 Apocalypse Now ...... D3 stay in Saigon, or log onto www.anyarena. 8 Fuse ...... D2 com or www.thewordhcmc.com.

þ Shopping Clubs 9 Ben Thanh Market ...... A5 HCMC’s hippest club nights include 10 Dogma...... B4 the semi-regular Everyone’s a DJ (www. 11 Vietnam Quilts...... C2 everyones adjvietnam.wordpress.com) loft party, dOSe and the Beats Saigon (www.thebeats ï Information -saigon.com). 12 Australian Consulate...... D3 13 Canadian Consulate ...... B2 Apocalypse Now CLUB 14 Dutch Consulate ...... B1 (Map p878 ; 2C Ð Thi Sach; entry Sat & Sun 15 HCMC Family Medical 150,000d; h7pm-2am) ‘Apo’ has been around Practice ...... A2 since the early days and remains one of the 16 International Medical Centre ...... A2 must-visit clubs. It’s quite a circus, with a 17 International SOS ...... A2 cast comprising travellers, expats, Vietnam- 18 Japanese Embassy...... D5 ese movers and shakers, plus the odd hooker 19 Lao Consulate ...... A3 (some odder than others). New Zealand Consulate...... (see 13) Gossip CLUB (79 Ð Tran Hung Dao; admission 120,000d; PHAM NGU LAO AREA h9.30pm-2.30am) Housed in the Dai Nam Hotel, this long-running club heats Go2 BAR up at the weekend with a hard techno (Map p880 ; 187 Ð De Tham; W) There’s no better street theatre than watching the crazy soundtrack. goings on from the outside seats of this all- Fuse CLUB night venue. The music’s usually excellent (Map p878 ; 3A Ð Ton Duc Thang; h7pm-late) Small and it has a club upstairs if you feel the need club, big beats. to boogie, and a rooftop bar if you want to cool oﬀ . Live Music Acoustic BAR Le Pub PUB (Map p875 ; 6E1 Ð Ngo Thoi Nhiem; h7pm-midnight; (Map p880 ; www.lepub.org; 175/22 Ð Pham Ngu W) Don’t be misled by the name: most of the Lao; h7am-late; W) Popular with expats and musicians are fully plugged in and danger- travellers alike, Le Pub has an extensive beer ous when they take to the intimate stage of list, nightly promotions, cocktail jugs and the city’s leading live-music venue. tasty pub grub. The main WATER PUPPETS WATER PUPPETS WATER Within the HistoryWithin the Museum, ; 55B Nguyen Thi Minh Khai) Thi ; 55B Nguyen ; History Museum, Ð Nguyen Binh Khiem; Ð Nguyen Museum, ; History Massage Institute ...... A6 Blue Dragon...... B2 Hanoi Gallery...... B3 Mekong Creations ...... B2 SahaBook...... A2 Diep Anh...... A3 Giang & Son...... A4 Hong Han Hotel...... B5 Madame Cuc's 127...... B6 Mai Phai Hotel ...... A2 Nhat Thao ...... B2 Dinh Y ...... A6 Mumtaz ...... B5 Sozo...... B3 Allez Boo ...... A2 Bobby Brewers...... (see 25) Go2 ...... B2 Le Pub...... A2 Spotted Cow...... B3 Cafe Kim Tourist...... A2 Innoviet...... B3 Sinh Tourist ...... A2 Sinhbalo Adventures...... A4 Vietnamese Traditional An An Hotel...... B2 Beautiful Saigon...... B2 Beautiful Saigon 2...... B2 Bich Duyen Hotel ...... A4 875 Shopping 876 1 7 5 2 3 Activities, Courses & Tours Sleeping 8 Shopping Eating Drinking 6 9 4 11 17 15 12 13 21 18 16 19 14 10 25 22 23 26 24 20 þ ú û Pham Ngu Lao Area Ø ÿ Water Puppets water-puppetshows starting with venue, 6.30pmat 5pm and about 50 and lasting minutes. Dragon Golden Theatre Puppet Water (Map p Theatre Puppet Water Saigon (Map p 7 to be found in Among the tempting wares silk shoes, min- Saigon are embroidered entry 40,000d) entry 40,000d) this small theatre has performancesthis small theatre at 9am, and 4pm, lasting10am, 11am, 2pm, 3pm about 20 minutes. 1 7 2 5 3 6 4 15

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2 Pham Ngu Lao Area 3 6 6 4 6 VIETNAM HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON) 6 880 6 881 iature cyclos, fake Zippos engraved with GI SahaBook BOOKS philosophy and toy helicopters made from (Map p880 ; www.sahabook.com; 175/24 Ð Pham beer cans. Boutiques along Ð Le Thanh Ton Ngu Lao) Specialises in guidebooks and travel and Ð Pasteur sell handmade ready-to-wear literature, including genuine Lonely Planet fashion. In Pham Ngu Lao, shops sell ethnic- guides. minority fabrics, handicrafts, T-shirts and Blue Dragon HANDICRAFTS

various appealing accessories. VIETNAM Ben Thanh Market (Cho Ben Thanh; (Map p880 ; 1B Ð Bui Vien) Popular souvenir Map p878 ) is the best place to start. Part store that stocks objets d’art made from of the market is devoted to normal every- recycled motorbike parts, among other day items, but the lucrative tourist trade things. HO CHI (SAIGON) MINH CITY also has healthy representation. Ð Dong OTHER NEIGHBOURHOODS Khoi (Map p878 ) is one big arts-and-crafts tourist bazaar, but prices can be outrageous S Mai Handicrafts HANDICRAFTS – negotiate if no prices are posted. (www.maihandicrafts.com; 298 Ð Nguyen Trong Check out the following shops around Tuyen, Tan Binh District; hMon-Sat) A fair-trade town: shop dealing in ceramics, ethnic fabrics and other gift items. DONG KHOI AREA Information S Vietnam Quilts HANDICRAFTS 8 (Map p878 ; www.mekong-quilts.org; 64 Ð Ngo Duc For up-to-date information on what’s going on in Ke) The place to buy handmade quilts sewn town, check out the Word HCMC (www.word by the rural poor in support of a sustainable hcmc.com) or Asialife HCMC (www.asialife income. hcmc.com), both quality listings magazines. Dogma SOUVENIRS Dangers & Annoyances (Map p878 ; www.dogmavietnam.com; 1st ﬂ , 43 Ð Ton Be careful in the Dong Khoi area and along the That Thiep) Reproduction propaganda post- Saigon riverfront, where motorbike ‘cowboys’ ers, as well as politically kitsch coﬀ ee mugs, operate and specialise in bag and camera coasters and T-shirts. snatching. See the transport section for common taxi and xe om scams. DA KAO & AROUND Emergency Thu Quan Sinh Vien BOOKSTORE Ambulance (%115) (Map p876 ; 2A ÐL Le Duan; h8am-10pm; W) Up- Fire (%114) market bookstore that stocks imported books and magazines in English, French Police (%113) and Chinese. Internet Access

Adidas Puma Factory Shop SHOES, CLOTHING Internet cafes are everywhere in HCMC. Many (Map p876 ; 232 Ð Pasteur) Authentic trainers/ hotels, cafes, restaurants and bars off er free sneakers at a fi fth of the price you’ll pay wi-fi . back home. Medical Services HCMC Family Medical Practice (Map p 878 ; Cham Khanh CLOTHING, TAILOR %24hr emergency 3822 7848; www.vietnam (Map p876 ; 256 Ð Pasteur) One of several ao dai medicalpractice.com; Diamond Plaza, 34 ÐL (traditional Vietnamese tunic and trousers) Le Duan; h24hr) One of the best places, with shops on this stretch of Ð Pasteur. prices to match. International Medical Centre (Map p 878 ; PHAM NGU LAO AREA %3827 2366, 24hr emergency 3865 4025; S Mekong Creations HANDICRAFTS [email protected]; 1 Ð Han Thuyen; h24hr) A (Map p880 ; www.mekong-creations.org; 141 Ð Bui nonprofit organisation with English-speaking Vien) Profi ts from the sale of bamboo bowls doctors. and platters benefi t remote Mekong villages. International SOS (Map p 878 ; %3929 8424, 24hr emergency 3829 8520; www.international Hanoi Gallery SOUVENIRS sos.com; 65 Ð Nguyen Du; h24hr) Has an (Map p880 ; 79 Ð Bui Vien) Original (or so we’re international team of doctors speaking English, told) and reproduction propaganda posters. French and Japanese.

Sapaco 3836 5489; 5489; 3836 (VASCO; (VASCO; % 1900 1550; www. 1550; 1900 13-27/6½hr 32-54/18hr 50-79/30hr % ( Buses heading north of US$ US$ US$ Buses Ninh to Tay and Serves all the main 3832 0320; www.vietnam 0320; 3832 % ( (Map p 880 ; ; 880 p (Map 3846 3666; www.airmekong. 3666; 3846 3920 3623; 309 Pham Ngu Lao) % ( % Getting There & Away 8-15/7hr7-20/13hr N/A 26-37/29hr 31-49/41hr 3842 2790; www.vasco.com.vn) Flies to/ There are plenty of international bus services Bus Air jetstar.com) Flies to/from Hanoi, Hai Phong, Vinh, Hue and Danang. Vietnam Air Service Company from Chu Lai, Con Dao Islands and Ca Mau. www.thekimtourist.com; 270 Ð De Tham) Mekong Delta towns; located about 10km Lac. An in Saigon of southwest Open-tour buses depart and arrive in the Pham Ngu Lao area. Destinations include Mui Ne (US$5 to US$10), Nha Trang (US$7 to US$20), Dalat (US$8 to US$15), Hoi An (US$15 to US$37) and Hanoi (US$31 to US$49). connecting HCMC and Cambodia, most with departures from the Pham Ngu Lao area. HCMC; about 5km from downtown on Hwy 13. Express buses depart from the east side of the station, and local buses connect with the west the complex.side of Mien bus station Tay % Intercity buses operate from three main bus stations around HCMC. Local buses(3000d) travelling to the intercity bus stations leave from the local bus station opposite Ben Thanh Market (Map p 878 ). station bus Suong An points northeast of HCMC; in District 12, west of the centre. Buses to/from Cu Chi leave from here but tours are far more convenient. station bus Dong Mien 8 For more information on international air travel, see p 904 . Airlines Vietnam Cafe Kim Tourist Kim Cafe airlines.com) Flies to/from Hanoi,Hai Phong, Dong Hoi, Hue, Danang, Nha Trang, Dalat and QuocPhu Island. Mekong Air com.vn) Flies to/from Hanoi, Dalat, Pleiku, Con Dao Islands and Phu Quoc Island. Jetstar Pacific Airlines (Map p 880 ; US$ US$ US$ US$ 6.30am- 3837 6766; 6766; 3837 39/50min 44/55min 37/80min 70/2hr h Mon-Sat) % 3925 7605; 7605; 3925 US$ US$ US$ US$ h ering tours of % ﬀ 3827 9170; www. 9170; 3827 ( (Map p 878 ; ; 878 p (Map 3838 9593; www. 9593; 3838 % 3827 2911; www. 2911; 3827 % % 6291 5406; www.inn 5406; 6291 (Map p 880 ; % (Map p 878 ; 2 Cong Xa Paris) 878 (Map p (Map p 878 ; ; 878 p (Map (Map p 880 ; ; 880 p (Map (Map p 880 ; 211 Ð Nguyen Thai 880 (Map p (Map p 878 ; ; 878 p (Map (Map p 878 ; 11 Me Linh Sq) With With Sq) Linh Me 11 ; 878 p (Map 8am-8pm) Distributes city maps and and maps city Distributes 8am-8pm) (Map p 878 ; 115; Ð Nguyen Hue) Its 878 (Map p (Map p 880 ; ; 880 p (Map h DESTINATION Dalat AIR from BUS TRAIN Nha Trang from Hue from Hanoi from TRANSPORT HCMC FROM 3822 6033; www.vietnamtourism.com; 4G 4G www.vietnamtourism.com; 6033; 3822 closed Sat afternoon For customised & Sun) ering decent rates) in the airport hallway of ﬀ Travel AgenciesTravel Tourist Information Tourist Post Money Buffalo Tours Buffalo 10.30pm) Sinh Tourist Sinh Handspan Travel Indochina Travel Handspan tours, this is one of the best agencies in Viet- in agencies best the of one is this tours, ar- also but trips, Specialises cycling nam. in Mekong the to journeys special-interest ranges Delta, Central Highlands and further afield. www.sinhbalo.com; 283/20 Ð Pham Ngu Lao; Innoviet buffalotours.com; 81 Ð Mac Thi Buoi) Exotissimo www.handspan.com; 7th fl, Titan Bldg, 18A Ð Nam Quoc Cang, District Known 1) for their innovative, non-generic tours and professional approach. oviet.com; 158 Ð Bui Vien) Sinhbalo Adventures h the Mekong Delta and other jaunts beyond HCMC. Some of the better ones include the following: There are lots of travel agents o % Saigon’s striking French-era post office is next next is office post French-era striking Saigon’s Cathedral. Dame Notre to Tourist Information Center office post Main Citibank Sacombank There are and ATMs exchange counters (most o Bank ANZ ATM. hit. one in 8,000,000d to up allows ATM customs. clearing after just arrivals, backpacker the in located Conveniently Hoc) zone, with ATM. exotissimo.com; 64 Ð Dong Du; brochures and offers limited advice. thesinhtourist.vn; 246 Ð De Tham; Le Loi; Loi; Le

HO CHI MINH CITY (SAIGON)

VIETNAM 882 883 has nine direct daily services to Phnom Penh (departing between 6am and 3pm, US$10), as GETTING TO CAMBODIA: well as one to Siam Riep (US$20). MOC BAI TO BAVET

Car & Motorcycle Getting to the border This busy bor- Hotels and travellers’ cafes can arrange car der crossing is the fastest way to get rentals (from US$35 per day). Pham Ngu Lao is between HCMC and Phnom Penh, trav- VIETNAM the neighbourhood to look for motorbike rentals ellers’ cafes in HCMC sell bus tickets. VIETNAM (US$5 to US$10 per day). At the border Open daily from 6am Train to 6pm. Trains from Saigon train station (Ga Sai Gon; 1 AROUNDCU HO CHI CHI MINH CITY Moving on International buses from 8 Ð Nguyen Thong, District 3; ticket offi ce h7.15- HCMC run right through to Phnom 11am & 1-3pm) head north to destinations in- Penh. cluding the following: See p 79 for information on the Nha Trang (272,000d to 550,000d; 6½ to nine remote Vietnam–Cambodia border hours, eight daily) crossings north of HCMC, beyond Tay Danang (616,000d to 1,019,000d, 15½ to 20¾ Ninh and Binh Long. hours, six daily) Hue (655,000d to 1,100,000, 18 to 24½ hours, six daily) from many streets, so pedal merchants are Dong Hoi (759,000d to 1,199,000, 21 to 26 often forced to take circuitous routes. Over- hours, five daily) charging tourists is the norm, so negotiate In Pham Ngu Lao, purchase tickets from a price beforehand and have exact change. Saigon Railway Tours (Map p 880 ; %3836 Short hops around the city centre are 15,000d 7640; www.railtour.com.vn; 275C Ð Pham Ngu to 25,000d; District 1 to central Cholon costs Lao; h7.30am-8pm) or from most travel agents about 40,000d. for a small fee. Taxi 8 Getting Around Metered taxis cruise the streets. Flagfall is around 15,000d for the fi rst kilometre and most To/From the Airport rides in the city centre cost just two or three Tan Son Nhat Airport is 7km northwest of bucks. Be wary of dodgy taxi meters that are central HCMC. Metered taxis are your best bet rigged. These are reliable companies: and cost around 100,000d to/from the centre. Mai Linh (%3822 6666) English-speaking controllers will shuffl e you into a waiting cab and tell the driver your destination. Saigon Taxi (%3823 2323) The driver may try to claim your hotel of choice Xe Om is closed, burned down, is dirty and dangerous, or anything to steer you somewhere else for a Xe om drivers hang out on parked bikes touting commission. Stick to your guns. for passengers. The accepted rate is 20,000d for short rides, per hour/day the cost is about Air-conditioned buses (route 152; 4000d, US$3/15. every 15 minutes, 6am to 6pm) also run to and from the airport. These make regular stops along Ð De Tham (Pham Ngu Lao area) and at international hotels along Ð Dong Khoi. AROUND HO CHI MINH Bicycle CITY Bicycles are available for hire (US$2) from many budget hotels and cafes. Use parking lots to safeguard against theft. Cu Chi If the tenacious spirit of the Vietnamese can Car & Motorcycle be symbolised by a place, then Cu Chi could HCMC is not the place to learn to ride a motor- be the one. Its fame is such that it’s become bike. They are nevertheless available for hire a place of pilgrimage for many Vietnamese, around Pham Ngu Lao for US$5 to US$10 per and a must-see for travellers. day. Give it a test drive fi rst; you’ll be asked to leave your passport as collateral. 1 Sights Cyclo Cu Chi Tunnels HISTORIC SITES Cyclos are an interesting way to get around (www.cuchitunnel.org.vn; admission 80,000d) The town, but avoid them at night. They’re banned tunnel network at Cu Chi was the stuff of ). If ). x, con- 865 fi ). It’s also ). It’s 886 Mekong Del- Mekong 882 is home to sev- My Tho Tourist Tourist Tho My ering cruises to the ff oating markets you’ll fl arteries.ow through like fl Vung Tau, which you can Tau, Vung (8 Ð 30 Thang 4) (8 Ð 30

oating markets, or dine on home- fl if you can join a group. cantly better fi By far the easiest and cheapest way to see By far the easiest and cheapest way On the riverfront, the Those seeking a tropical hideaway will Those seeking a tropical hideaway Although the area is primarily rural, it is Although the area is primarily 074 / POP074 169,300 oat upon the innumerable rivers, canalsoat nd it on Phu Quoc, an island lined with sider city-resort reach by hydrofoil. eral tour companies o neighbouring islands and through the maze of small canals. Destinations usually include a coconut-candy workshop, a honey farm (try the banana wine) and an orchid garden. A 2½-hour boat tour costs around 350,000d are Prices for one person or 450,000d for two. signi the delta is by taking a tour with a travel the delta is by taking a tour with a travel (p City Chi Minh agency in Ho although independently, possible to travel sometimes time-consuming. need to continue on to Can Tho (p white-sand beaches and crisscrossed with dirtempty roads. My Tho % Delta for daytrip- to the Mekong Gateway pers to the region, the slow-paced capital of Tien Giang province is an important market town, but to visit time is short want a quick and you populated regionsone of the most densely in Vietnam every and nearly hectare is in- can experiencetensively farmed. Visitors cities where fewsouthern charm in riverside fruits traded in thetourists venture, sample colourful before overnighting as a delicacies cooked guest. There are also bird sanctu-homestay aries, impressive Khmer pagodas and, inevi- war memorials. tably, fi Beaches There are several resorts beach within strik- although Saigon, of downtown ing distance (p Ne for Mui make most travellers DELTA MEKONG The ‘rice bowl’ of Vietnam, the ta is a landscape carpeted va- in a dizzying world where also a water riety of greens. It’s and evenboats, houses, restaurants markets fl and streams that Boat Station Boat 7.30- h WILDLIFE CENTRE WILDLIFE Cao Dai Great Just a few kilometres Just ective ground operations ff nd the centre, so talk to and the centre, fi scated from illegal traders.scated from illegal fi t into the narrow passageways, fi was built between 1933 and 1955. was built between

Parts of this remarkable tunnel network of this Parts cafes tours operated by travellers’ Day It’s tough to tough It’s Tay Ninh is 96km northwest of HCMC. Tay 066 / POP 127,000 travel agent about incorporating it into a Cu travel trip. Chi Tunnels down the road from the tunnels of Ben Dinh, this small rescue centre provides protection to wildlife con and gib- Animals here include bears, otters bons. The centre is expanding its enclosures to create more comfortable habitats and on the ratherthere is an informative display depressing state of wildlife in Vietnam. Temple The Cao Dai Holy See complex is 4km eastThe Cao Dai Holy tours from Saigon, in- Ninh. One-day of Tay Ninh and the Cu Chi Tunnels, cluding Tay cost around US$8. Victor Hugo is among the Westerners espe- is among the Westerners Victor Hugo cially revered by the Cao Dai; look for his at the Great Temple. likeness

Tay Ninh town serves as the headquarters of Tay most interesting Cao Dai, one of Vietnam’s indigenous religions. The Tay Ninh % (www.wildlifeatrisk.org; admission US$5; US$5; admission (www.wildlifeatrisk.org; Cu Chi Wildlife Wildlife Cu Chi Station Rescue legend during the 1960s during legend in fa- role for its Vietcilitating a large rural control of Cong At its height, Saigon. 30km from area only stretched system the tunnel to from Saigon the district Cu of In border. the Cambodian Chi than 200km of alone, there was more tunnels. After ine targeting numbers tunnels claimed large the artillery turned its the USA of casualties, it on the area, transforming and bombers into a moonscape. sites are reconstructed been and two have the village of Benopen to visitors; one near possi- Duoc. It’s Dinh and the other at Ben tunnels themselves.ble to descend into the widened, been Although some sections have original condition.others remain in their If you can you’ll gain an empathetic, if claustrophobic, who spent weeksappreciation for the people underground. per person (transportcharge around US$8 at the Cao Daionly); most include a stop Ninh. in Tay Great Temple 11.30am & 1-4.30pm)

MEKONGSIGHTSTAY NINH DELTA

VIETNAM 884 885 4 Sleeping & Eating west of the town centre on Ð Ap Bac, the main My Tho is well-known for a special vermi- road to HCMC. Buses head to HCMC’s Mien Tay bus station (30,000d, around 75 minutes), Can celli soup called hu tieu My Tho, which is Tho (50,000d), Cao Lanh (25,000d), Chau Doc richly garnished with fresh and dried sea- (51,000d) and Ca Mau (100,000d). food, pork, chicken, oﬀ al and fresh herbs. VIETNAM Song Tien HOTEL $ VIETNAM ( %387 2009; www.tiengiangtourist.com; 101 Ð Ben Tre Trung Trac; r from 400,000d; aW) Reliable % 075 / POP 120,000 seven-storey hotel where the rooms include Famous for its keo dua (coconut candy), Ben satellite TV, minibars and hot water; ‘suites’ Tre’s sleepy waterfront is lined with ageing MEKONGBEN TRE DELTA have fancier furniture. villas and is easy to explore on foot. It’s a & EATING SLEEPING relatively peaceful city that makes a lovely Quan Oc 283 VIETNAMESE, SEAFOOD $ stop on a Mekong tour. (283 Ð Tet Mau Than; mains 15,000-100,000d) Sea- Ben Tre Tourist (%382 9618; www.ben food is the speciality here, including clams, tretourist.vn; 65 Ð Dong Khoi; h7-11am & 1-5pm) scallops, mussels and snails, or venture be- rents out bikes and motor boats (per hour hind to the tanks of live ﬁ sh, crab and shrimp. US$10) and arranges excursions, including a motorcart/canal-boat trip to a honey farm 8 Getting There & Around and coconut candy workshop (per one/two/ New bridges and freeways have considerably three/four people $25/30/42/52) and an shortened travel distances to My Tho. The bus ‘ecological tour’ by bike to coconut, guava station (Ben Xe Tien Giang; 42 Ð Ap Bac) is 3km and grapefruit groves.

0 50 km Mekong Delta 0 30 miles Takeo Vinh Xuong Duc Hue C A M B O D I A Phu Chau HO CHI MINH Tam Nong Mac Hoa CITY (SAIGON) (Tan Chau) DONG Chau Doc THAP Tram Chin LONG AN 1 Vinh Te National Park Sam Tam Nong Tan Thanh Canal Phnom Den 30 Cao Mountain 91 Rung TIEN Tan An Can Prek Cho Moi Lanh Duoc Chak Tinh AN Tram GIANG Ba Chuc Bien GIANG District Cai Be Floating 1 Xa Xia Long Xuyen Tuc Dup My Hiep Market Cai Lay My Tho Go Ha Tien Sa Dec Hill Vuon Co Ben Tre Cong Mui Hon Dong Thot Not Cai Nai Chong 80 Vinh Long BEN TRE Beach 80 91 Mon 1 Giong Duong Tan Hiep 53 Tram Nghe VINH Island Beach Can To Phu Rach Gia Tho LONG TRA Rach Phong Dien VINH Quoc Island Cai Rang Tra Soi Floating Floating 53 Market Market Vinh Cau Ngang 61 CAN THO Tra Cu 1 Go Quao Long My 60 Ba Dong KIEN Soc Chua Co GIANG My Phuoc Ba Dong Trang Island Duyen Beach Hong SOC Hai U-Minh TRANG Xa Lon Forest Dan BAC Pagoda Gulf of LIEU U-Minh Moi Hoa Thailand Thoi Binh Pagoda Vinh Chau Binh Bac Lieu 1 Ca Mau Bac Lieu Ganh Ha Bird Sanctuary Ri r o ve Ganh Hao S O U T H Dam Doi C H I N A Cai Nuoc Ca Mau S E A Peninsula 1 CA MAU Con Dao Islands Nam Can Ca Mau Dat Mui Nature Reserve (Cape Ca Mau) . Tours ff air, show air, ff has helpful Smart, Smart, oating market fl Friendly, Friendly, Beds in small 382 1852; www.cantho % (

(49 Ð 2 Thang 9; mains 30,000- Ð 2 (49

ers many homestay options. homestay many ers ﬀ is the biggest rice dishesers lots of hotpots and ﬀ o Frequent buses go between Vinh Long go between buses Frequent

We suggest you don’t stay in town; suggest don’t you stay We

Cai Rang Cai Can Tho Tourist Dong Khanh Dong 071 / POP 1.1 MILLION nd plenty of ATMs and internet cafes dot- of ATMs nd plenty in the Mekong Delta, 6km from Can Tho to- in the Mekong a morning a It’s wards Soc Trang. and HCMC (70,000d, three hours) from the(70,000d, three hours) from and HCMC town. Buses to oth- terminal in the middle of Can Thoer locations, including (34,000d), 3km from a provincial bus station leave south of town. and has an English-language menu. and has an English-language instead opt for a homestay; see the boxedfor a homestay; instead opt text below. Can Tho % Can Tho cultural is the political, economic, and transportation epicentre of the Mekong with a waterfront city a buzzing Delta. It’s lined with sculpted gardens and an appealing blend of narrow backstreets and wide boulevards for some rewarding that make exploration. Vinh Long. It’s best to arrive early in the in early to arrive best Long.Vinh It’s morning. moor big boats on Wholesalers or a few in one specialising here, each types or vegetable.of fruit ted around town. are available, and there’s a booking desk for and there’s are available, You’ll both VietnamJetstar. Airlines and ﬁ English- and French-speaking sta English- and French-speaking 50,000d) tourist.com.vn; 50 Ð Hai Ba Trung) Trung) 50 Ð Hai Ba tourist.com.vn; (Ð 356 5am- % ( h oating ( ﬂ

Built on stilts over the wide Co Chien River, this place this place Chien River, the wide Co over Built on stilts exchanges has piquant is a capable Vinh Long is a Noi Ben Tre 382 3616; www.cuu 382 3616; on the riverfront on the % ) 385 9912; [email protected]; Binh Hoa 2 hamlet, Binh Hoa Hoa Binh 2 hamlet, Binh Hoa 385 9912; [email protected]; ( Ham Luong Ham

% (

floating market market floating

385 8694; 95/8 Binh Luong, An Binh village; per person US$15) per person An Binh village; 95/8 Binh Luong, 385 8694; ering boat tours ranging ais (143 Ð Le Thai To) Thai Ð Le (143 ﬀ 385 8487; An Thanh hamlet, An Binh village; per person US$10) per person An Binh village; Thanh hamlet, An 385 8487;

% 385 9019; Binh Thuan 2 hamlet, Hoa Ninh village; per person US$13-15) per person village; Ninh Hoa Thuan 2 hamlet, 385 9019; Binh ( %

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Cai Be Cai

is worth including on a boat tour from

has dorms in well-ventilated rattan-roofed buildings and meals are served in a central in a central served are and meals buildings rattan-roofed has dorms in well-ventilated structure. stilt Phuoc village; per person 300,000d) per person Phuoc village; Mai Quoc Nam 2 Ngoc Sang Ngoc For many travellers, the chance to experience river life and to share a home-cooked meal a home-cooked share and to life river experience to the chance travellers, many For o Long Vinh visit. a Mekong is a highlight of family with a local A NIGHT ON THE MEKONG bungalows in lush surroundings. The very hospitable family owners are known to indulge indulge to known are owners family hospitable The very in lush surroundings. bungalows their guests. for singing in traditional Song Tien Song help out in the fam- even can You available. are bikes free where homestay canal-facing orchard. ily’s Bay Thoi Bay friendly options set around an attractive wooden family home, some rooms are en-suite. en-suite. are rooms some home, family wooden an attractive around set friendly options provided. are bikes Free

Try the modern modern the Try Vietcombank Cuu Long Tourist Cuu Buses leave regularly from the new bus Buses leave at the public Slow boats can be rented

Bustling 070 / POP 130,000 0560; www.hamluongtourist.com.vn; 200 Ð Hung 200 www.hamluongtourist.com.vn; 0560; r US$18-29; Vuong; prawn salads and other local delicacies. salads prawn northeastterminal 5km of town for HCMC 5pm), Can 4pm and last between (67,000d, Ha (103,000d) and Tho Ca Mau (55,000d), Tien (134,000d). pier near the market for about 70,000d to 90,000d per hour. market,beautiful islands, abundant orch- can (which ards and atmospheric homestays journey). be a highlight of a Mekong

% a destination in itself, Not Vinh Vinh Long hub. First impressions chaotic transit noisy, are not great, but the riverfront has plenty Closeof cafes and restaurants. by are several worthwhile sites including Cai Be 5pm) state-run out per person)from three hours (from US$12 private operators charge lessto three days; per hour). (around US$7 cash and travellers cheques. cash and travellers Hung Vuong; mains 20,000-60,000d) Vuong; Hung for nicely furnished rooms. A multistorey rooms. furnished for nicely the river, moored in barge longtourist.net; 2 Phan Boi Chau) longtourist.net;

MEKONG8VINH LONG DELTA

VIETNAM 886 887 up before 9am for the best photo opportu- 1,700,000d, daily). The airport is 10km north- nities. You can hire boats (about US$6 per west of the city centre. hour) on the river near the Can Tho market. Boat Cai Rang is one hour away by boat, or you can drive to Cau Dau Sau boat landing, where you Boat services include hydrofoils to Ca Mau (150,000d, three to four hours), passing through can get a rowing boat (per hr around 80,000d) Phung Hiep. VIETNAM to the market, 10 minutes away. VIETNAM Less crowded and less motorised is the Bus Phong Dien market, which has more stand- Can Tho’s bus station (cnr Ð Nguyen Trai & Ð up rowboats. It’s best between 6am and Hung Vuong) is centrally located. Regular buses 8am. Twenty kilometres southwest of Can (75,000d, fi ve hours) and express minibuses MEKONGCHAU DOC DELTA SLEEPING & EATING SLEEPING Tho, it’s easy to reach by road. You can hire (90,000d, four hours) run to HCMC’s Mien a boat on arrival. Tay bus station. Other services include Cao Lanh (30,000d), My Tho (50,000d), Tra Vinh 4 Sleeping & Eating (55,000d), Vinh Long (34,000d), Soc Trang (50,000d), Ca Mau (65,000d) and Ha Tien S Kim Lan Hotel HOTEL $$ (83,000d). ( %381 7049; www.kimlancantho.com.vn; 138A Ð Nguyen An Ninh; r US$18-50; aiW) Chic rooms at this solar-powered hotel include artwork Chau Doc and contemporary furnishings in bamboo % 076 / POP 112,000 and wood. Even the small, windowless Perched on the banks of the Bassac River, standard rooms are perfectly adequate. Chau Doc is a charming town near the Cambodian border, with sizeable Chinese, Xuan Mai Minihotel HOTEL $ Khmer and Cham communities. Its cultural ( %382 3578; [email protected]; 17 Ð Dien Bien Phu; diversity – apparent in the mosques, temples, r US$12; aW) This place has a real local feel, churches and nearby pilgrimage sites – as it’s on a lane that doubles as An Lac Mar- makes it a fascinating place to explore. ket by day. Off ers spacious, clean and sur- The popular nearby river crossing (p888 ) prisingly quiet rooms with TVs, fridges and between Vietnam and Cambodia means hot showers. many travellers pass through. Nearby Sam Hop Pho VIETNAMESE, CAFE $ Mountain is a local beauty spot with terrifi c (6 Ð Ngo Gia Tu; mains 30,000-130,000d; W) views over Cambodia. Serves Vietnamese staples at fair prices and War remnants near Chau Doc include Ba it’s a great spot for a coff ee or a cocktail, Chuc, the site of a Khmer Rouge massacre either in air-conditioned comfort inside, or with a bone pagoda similar to that of Cam- outside in the lush garden. bodia’s Choeung Ek memorial; and Tuc Dup Hill, where an expensive American bombing Mekong VIETNAMESE, PIZZA $ campaign in 1963 earned it the nickname (38 Ð Hai Ba Trung; mains 25,000-105,000d; h8am- Two Million Dollar Hill. 2pm & 4-10pm) A travellers’ favourite thanks to It’s also possible to visit fi sh farms set up the good local and international food at very underneath fl oating houses on the river. reasonable prices. Doubles as a bar at night. Mekong Tours (%386 8222; www.mekong vietnam.com; 14 Ð Nguyen Huu Canh) is a reliable Xe Loi BAR, CLUB travel agent off ering boat or bus transport to h The most hap- (Hau Riverside Park; 5pm-late) Phnom Penh, boat trips on the Mekong, and pening nightspot with tables in the large gar- cars with drivers. den, a fake beach on the riverside (yes!) and a full-on club with DJs and regular live music. 4 Sleeping & Eating

8 Getting There & Around o Trung Nguyen Hotel HOTEL $ Air ( %386 6158; [email protected]; 86 Ð Bach Can Tho opened a new international airport in Dang; r US$13-15; aiW) Best of the budget early 2011, but at the time of writing the only places, with a trim and panache that is de- services were Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnam cidedly more midrange. Rooms feature bal- airlines.com) ﬂ ights to Phu Quoc Island (from conies overlooking the market. It’s on a busy 500,000d, daily), the Con Dao islands (from corner site, so pack earplugs. 400,000d, four per week) and Hanoi (from $ $ esh ﬂ , one Xuan HOTEL HOTEL HOTEL pulls has inter- (37 Ð Lam Son) Ð Lam (37

ers good-value, well- In the new part of In ﬀ ) (3 Ð To Chau) To (3 Ð

run by an expat and his aW ) i Agribank Friendly and family-run, this and Friendly ) KAAM SAMNOR KAAM favourites. aW ve hours). ve (20 Ð Tran Hau; mains 30,000-60,000d) Hau; mains 30,000-60,000d) Tran Ð (20 (www.oasisbarhatien.com; 42 Tuan Phu Tuan 42 (www.oasisbarhatien.com; ﬁ post office post

9am-9pm; Eating Sleeping Getting There & Away h 385 2240; So 52, Ð Dong Thuy Tram; r 200,000- Tram; Thuy Ð Dong 52, So 385 2240; 395 9222; So 2, Ð Tran Hau; d/tw/f 200,000/ Hau; d/tw/f Tran Ð 2, So 395 9222; The Be sure to try the local coconut, its 08-3926 0253; www.bluecruiser.com) 0253; 08-3926 % % tropical charm. Visitor numbers have recent- have numbers Visitor charm. tropical of the border the opening thanks to ly soared Chakthe and Xia–Prek Xa at with Cambodia new service fast boat Quoc. to Phu block from the waterfront,block from the has an ATM. 400,000/500,000d; 400,000/500,000d; Vietnamese wife; it’s also a great source of Vietnamese wife; it’s information. impartial travel 700,000d; 700,000d; 8 Passenger ferries dock at the ferry terminal, opposite the Ha Tien Hotel. See the Phu Quoc transport section for details of services. ( 5 shrimp is the cheap- when happy days It’s est dish on the menu. Local eatery has an English menu boasting a range of Vietnamese is mixed with ice and sugar and served in a beer try restaurants all over town. For Oasis 4 Hai Phuong ( Hotel Anh Van net and access smart, six-level hotel o with excellentpresented rooms, some river views from their balconies. Dat; Dat; Thanh town near the bridge, this large hotel hastown near the bridge, rooms brimmingcheap, small windowless options with riverwith amenities and pricier views. , $ HCMC Chau Doc 076-356 2771; www.hangchautourist.com. 2771; 076-356 Chau Doc % (

% HOTEL HOTEL (

(stewed VINH XUONG TO Sixteen ) aW ca kho to to kho ca Hang Chau Hang Blue Cruiser Blue smart-oors; all are ﬂ PHNOM DEN CAMBODIA: elds and rivers that typify ﬁ (41 Ð Le Loi; mains from 35,000) mains from Loi; Ð Le (41

(22 Ð Thuong Dang Le; mains from mains from Le; Thuong Dang (22 Ð

with excellent and soups, hotpots

has boats departing Chau Doc at 7.30am (US$24, (US$24, at 7.30am Chau Doc departing has boats See p 79 for information on crossing this border in the other direction. in the other this border on crossing information for 79 p See The more upmarket upmarket The more Several companies in Chau Doc sell boat journeys from Chau Doc to Phnom Penh via Phnom Penh to Chau Doc from journeys boat sell in Chau Doc companies Several See p 79 for information on crossing on crossing information for 79 p See Getting There & Around Mekong ve hours). The roads leading to the to leading The roads hours). ve

ne the area, pepper tree plantations dotne the area, and out with dark wooden furniture tted 626 0026; www.haichauhotel.com; 61 Ð Suong www.haichauhotel.com; 626 0026; vn) out at 7am (US$55, 4½ hours) from the Victoria Hotel, as do speedboats exclusive to to exclusive as do speedboats Hotel, Victoria the from 4½ hours) out at 7am (US$55, guests. Hotel Victoria GETTING TO CAMBODIA: Samnor Xuong–Kaam Vinh Cambodia is via the enter to ways enjoyable the most of One along the Mekong Chau Doc of northwest just 6pm) located 7am to (open crossing a dollar by but minor overcharging at the crossing, available are Cambodian visas River. is common. or two Xuong border. the Vinh TINH BIEN TO Den Tinh Bien–Phnom The little-used to Chau Doc connects crossing border Chau from Buses Cambodia. in Takeo at 7.30am depart Phnom Penh to Doc Mekong through be booked and can US$21, to (US$15 in Chau Doc Tours fi terrible. are border direction. in the other this border GETTING TO Good local eateries in Chau Doc include fi fi 077 / POP 93,000 % pot). sh in a clay fi the region. Dramatic limestone formations de the hillsides and the town itself has a sleepy where you could try the Nguyet Anh; r 360,000-560,000d; Anh; r 360,000-560,000d; Nguyet Ha Tien may be part of the Mekong Delta, but part be Tien may of the Mekong Ha lying on the Gulf of Thailand it feels a world from the rice away Ha Tien % 8 Buses to Chau Doc depart HCMC’s Mien sta- Tay tion (120,000d, six hours). For more on the border crossing to Cambodia, see the boxed text below. Bay Bong Bay Hai Chau ( rooms spread over four ly good showers. 40,000d) and

MEKONG8HA TIEN DELTA

VIETNAM 888 889

GETTING TO CAMBODIA: XA XIA TO PREK CHAK

The Xa Xia–Prek Chak crossing (open 7am to 10pm) connects Ha Tien with Kep and Kampot on Cambodia’s south coast. Direct buses cross the border twice a day, termi- nating in Sihanoukville or Phnom Penh. Casinos have sprung up in the no-man’s-land between the two border posts. VIETNAM Direct buses leave Ha Tien for Cambodia at midday and 4pm daily, heading to Kep VIETNAM (US$12, one hour, 47km), Kampot (US$15, 1½ hours, 75km), Sihanoukville (US$20, four hours, 150km) and Phnom Penh (US$18, four hours, 180km). Bookings can be made through Ha Tien Tourism. Xe om drivers in Ha Tien will also take you to Kep for around MEKONGRACH DELTA GIA US$15. & EATING SLEEPING See p 123 for information on crossing this border in the other direction.

Buses connect HCMC (from 132,000d, 10 hours) locals slurping fi sh noodle soup. No menu, and Ha Tien; and also run to destinations including so try the point-and-gesture ‘I’ll have what Chau Doc (52,000d), Rach Gia (38,000d) and Can she’s having’ approach. Tho (83,000d). Ha Tien bus station is on the road to Mui Nai Beach and the Cambodian border. 8 Getting There & Away Vietnam Airlines fl ies daily between HCMC (from 500,000d) and Rach Gia, continuing on to Phu Rach Gia Quoc Island (from 500,000d). The airport is about % 077 / POP 206,000 10km outside town; taxis cost about 160,000d. Rach Gia is something of a boom town, For details on getting to Phu Quoc by hydro- fl ush with funds from its thriving port and foil, see p 892 . Stop by the Rach Gia hydrofoil an injection of Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnam- terminal (%387 9765) the day before, or phone ese) money. The population here includes ahead to book a seat. signifi cant numbers of ethnic Chinese and There are regular services to Ca Mau ethnic Khmers. Few travellers linger, head- (50,000d, three hours), Ha Tien (38,000d, two ing straight to Phu Quoc Island, but the hours), HCMC (120,000, six to seven hours) and waterfront is lively and the backstreets hide other cities from the bus station (Ð Nguyen inexpensive seafood restaurants. Binh Khiem), 7km south of Rach Gia. Banks, ATMs and internet cafes are scattered around town. Kien Giang Tour- ist (Du Lich Lu Hanh Kien Giang; %386 2081; Phu Quoc Island [email protected]; 5 Ð Le Loi) is the % 077 / POP 85,000 provincial tourism authority. Fringed with idyllic beaches and with large tracts still covered in dense, tropical jungle, 4 Sleeping & Eating Phu Quoc is morphing from a sleepy back- Linda HOTEL $ water into a favoured escape. Beyond the ( %391 8818; cnr Ð 3 Thang 2 & Nguyen An Ninh; chain of resorts lining Long Beach, it’s still r 180,000-400,000d; aW) New hotel on the largely undeveloped. Dive the reefs, kayak emerging seafront strip with some of the bays, explore backroads by motorbike – or smartest rooms in Rach Gia. The priciest are live the life of a lotus eater by lounging on corner suites with two balconies and a mas- the beach, indulging in a massage and din- sage bath, but the cheapest are a tight squeeze. ing on fresh seafood. Despite the impending development (of a Kim Co Hotel HOTEL $ new international airport, a golf course and ( %387 9610; www.kimcohotel.com; 141 Ð Nguyen a casino), close to 70% of the island is pro- Hung Son; r 300,000d; aW) Centrally located, tected as Phu Quoc National Park. and the rooms are in good shape, some in- Phu Quoc’s rainy season is from July to cluding decadent bathtubs, making it tempt- November; the peak season for tourism is ing value. Most face the corridor, so you’ll between December and March. need to pull the shades to get some privacy. Most beachside accommodation options Than Binh VIETNAMESE $ are at Long Beach, located on the western (2 Ð Nguyen Thai Hoc; mains 18,000-35,000d) side of the island, just south of Duong Dong Humble street-side restaurant jammed with town.

ISLANDS BEACHES BEACHES Retaining On the east side shing. Hon Thomshing. Hon fi cation between US$320cation between fi Tram Chin National Park National Chin Tram has the most scenic stretch stretch scenic has the most Activities kayaks (60,000d per hour) for rent here. kayaks , home to a significant population of population of a significant to home , nd nd Diving & Snorkelling (Pineapple Island) is the largest in the is the largest (Pineapple Island) no real development group. As yet, there’s on the islands, but expect some movement here can be set in the next few years. Trips up by hotels and resorts on Long and Beach via dive operators. their isolated, tropical charm, these northern beaches are rarely peopled, let alone crowded. The road from Dai to Thom via Ganh Dau is very beautiful, passing through dense forest with tantalising glimpses of the coast below. of underwater plenty action around There’s Phu Quoc, but only during the dry months fun dives Two to May). (from November PADI four-day to US$80; cost from US$40 certi Open Water Sao, Dam & Vong Beaches Beaches Vong & Dam Sao, Vong) & Bai Bai Dam (Bai Sao; 2 An Thoi Islands Fifteen delightful islets at the southern tip of Phu Quoc, the An Thois can be visited by chartered for a wonderful boat swim- day ming, and snorkelling Thom Beaches & Dai Bau, Vung Thom) & Bai Bai Dai Bau, Vung (Bai of the island, Sao and Dam are two beau- of the island, Sao and Dam are two tiful white-sand beaches, just a few kilometres from An Thoi, the main shipping Beach, where the port. North of here is Vong also fast boats from the mainland dock. It’s and you’ll Duong Watersports, home to Mui fi Hon Chong Hon , BEACH FOREST Tra Vinh nd bamboo NEIGHBOURHOOD fi , located near Long Xuyen. Archaeologists have found found have Archaeologists Xuyen. Long near located , Nuoc Mam Hung Mam Nuoc a short walk from

, Oc-Eo the beaten track in the Mekong Delta, as most tourists are on on are tourists as most Delta, the Mekong in track beaten the ﬀ (Dinh Cau; Ð Bach Dang)

cial protection. In July 2010, July cial protection. In ﬃ 8-11am & 1-5pm) 8-11am Aptly named Long Beach stretch- Cau Castle Cau h (

Sights The small and secluded beach resort of of resort beach The small and secluded Check out some Khmer culture in culture Khmer Check out some its Mekong; the lower of much over held sway once Funan of The Khmer kingdom Birdwatching enthusiasts will want to make a diversion to to a diversion make to will want enthusiasts Birdwatching

lled with delicious food stalls. Take a lled with delicious food stalls. Take

» » » » ﬁ ancient Persian and Roman artefacts here. artefacts and Roman ancient Persian near Cao Lanh, a habitat for the rare eastern sarus crane. These huge birds are de- are birds huge These crane. sarus eastern the rare for a habitat Cao Lanh, near Cambodia. and in northwest here only found are and Angkor at on the bas-reliefs picted It’s not hard to get o get to hard not It’s OFF THE TRACK BEATEN IN THE MEKONG DELTA Cambodia. or from to on their way through passing HCMC or from trips day hit-and-run gems: regional lesser-known some are Here Cambodians and their beautiful temples. and their beautiful Cambodians principal port was at port was principal of coastline on the Mekong Delta mainland. The big attractions here are Chua Hang are here The big attractions mainland. Delta the Mekong on coastline of and Nghe Island. Beach Duong Grotto, Phu Quoc is famous for the quality of its Phu Quoc is famous for the quality The forest is most dense on the north- factorysh sauce, and the actually more of a temple-cum-lighthouse, thebuilt in 1937 to honour Thien Hau, Goddess of the Sea. ﬁ the market, exports all over the world. huts for drinks, and beachside massages are popular. es from Duong Dong southwards to An Thoi port. The main resort section is concentrated in the northern part, or bicy- a motorbike cle is necessary to reach some of the remote towards the south. You’ll bays the park was declared a Unesco Biosphere the park was declared a Unesco Reserve. ern half of the island, which forms the Khu a need Nguyen Sinh reserve. Rung You’ll to explore its or mountain bike motorbike rough dirt roads; there are no real hiking trails. About 90% of the island is forested and the trees and adjoining marine environment now enjoy o Phu Quoc National Park Park National Phu Quoc Long Beach Beach Long (Bai Truong) peek at Duong Dong Dong Duong bustling main town is not that The island’s exciting, though the excellent night market is 1 Deserted beaches ring Phu Quoc. white-sand Thanh

MEKONGSIGHTSPHU QUOC DELTA ISLAND

VIETNAM 890 891 and US$360; snorkelling trips are US$20 to Beach Club RESORT HOTEL $ US$30. All the following schools are based ( %398 0998; www.beachclubvietnam.com; in the Doung Dong area: r US$25-35; W) This chilled retreat, run by an English-Vietnamese couple, has tightly Rainbow Divers DIVING, SNORKELLING grouped, well-kept, spacious bungalows. ( %091 340 0964; www.divevietnam.com; 17A Ð Tran Good local info, plus a breezy beachside Hung Dao) This reputable PADI outfi t off ers a VIETNAM restaurant for stunning sunsets. VIETNAM wide range of diving and snorkelling trips. AROUND THE ISLAND Coco Dive Center DIVING, SNORKELLING Mango Garden B&B $$ ( %398 2100; www.cocodivecenter.com; 58 Ð Tran ( %629 1339; [email protected]; PHU QUOC ISLAND MEKONGPHU QUOC DELTA Hung Dao) SLEEPING r US$35; hSep-Apr; aiW) Run by a Vietnam- Searama DIVING, SNORKELLING ese-Canadian, this isolated B&B is surround- ( %629 1679; www.searama.com; 50 Ð Tran Hung ed by gorgeous gardens and mango trees. It’s Dao) French- and English-speaking opera- reached by a bumpy dirt road (turn left just tors, with new equipment. before Sao Beach). Book ahead, as it has just a handful of rooms. Vietnam Explorer DIVING ( %384 6372; 36 Ð Tran Hung Dao) Freedomland HOMESTAY $$ ( %399 4891; www.freedomlandphuquoc.com; Ong Fishing & Boat Trips Lang Beach; r US$30-40; i) More like a little Anh Tu’s Tours BOAT TRIPS, FISHING hippie commune than a resort, these 11 basic ( %399 6009; [email protected]) Snorkelling, bungalows (with mosquito nets and fans; no squid fi shing and island tours, plus motor- hot water) are scattered around a shady plot. bike rental. The communal vibe and shared meal experi- John’s Tours BOAT TRIPS, FISHING ence makes it popular with solo travellers. ( %091 910 7086; www.johnsislandtours.com; 4 Ð Tran Hung Dao) Snorkelling, island-hopping 5 Eating & Drinking and fi shing trips. Most hotels have their own lively cafes or restaurants in-house. 4 Sleeping Duong Dong’s night market (Ð Vo Thi Sau; Expect to pay more here than most places in v) is one of the most atmospheric (and Vietnam and be aware that accommodation aff ordable) places to dine with a delicious prices yo-yo depending on the season. range of Vietnamese seafood, grills and vegetarian options. DUONG DONG The seafood restaurants in the fi shing Sea Breeze HOTEL $ village of Ham Ninh also off er an authentic (Gio Bien; %399 4920; www.seabreezephuquoc. local experience and taste; try Kim Cuong I com; 62A Ð Tran Hung Dao; r fan $US15, air-con (mains 30,000-300,000d). US$25-40; aW) New place with smart, contemporary rooms and a breezy rooftop ter- DUONG DONG race. It’s handy for the night markets and Buddy Ice Cream ICE CREAM $ beach road. (www.visitphuquoc.info; 26 Ð Nguyen Trai; mains 25,000-130,000d; iW) New Zealand ice Hiep Phong Hotel GUESTHOUSE $ cream (per scoop 25,000d), plus toasted ( %384 6057; [email protected]; 17 Ð Nguyen sandwiches, fi sh ’n’ chips and snacks. Dou- Trai; r 280,000d; aiW) Very friendly, family- bles as a tourist information centre and run minihotel in the town centre. The rooms there’s free internet too. include satellite TV, fridge and hot water. Le Giang VIETNAMESE $ LONG BEACH (289 Ð Tran Hung Dao; mains 40,000-80,000d) A wide range of Vietnamese favourites in o Sea Star Resort RESORT HOTEL $$ ( %398 2161; www.seastarresort.com; r US$40, a local-style place with a breeze-catching bungalow US$50-75; aiW) A fun and friend- terrace; try the caramelised-fi sh claypots. ly place to stay, the extensive compound LONG BEACH includes 37 rooms and bungalows, many Mondo TAPAS $$ fronting a manicured stretch of sand with (82 Ð Tran Hung Dao; tapas 50,000-90,000d) sea-view balconies. Head here for Spanish tapas (chorizo, spicy ag fl Phu Phu gures and there fi gure on around fi ooded into a red- 077-387 7742, fl 397 9797) for a reliable % Rach Gia ( % nance has nance ( fi -grabbing growth Mai Linh Mai 077-398 0111; www.superdong.com.vn; Getting Around Getting And yet... Take a peek beneath those a peek And yet... Take Bicycle rentals are available through most There is a skeletal bus service (every hour or Rental motorbikes cost US$7 to US$10 (auto- Ferries depart from the pier at Vong Beach Call Call headline communist society. Rice paddies have be- Rice paddies have communist society. come business parks, and comrades have been a breathtak- become entrepreneurs. It’s ing and largely successful transformation. are concerns. Double-digit growth has fal- has cooled. Corruptiontered as the economy remains systemic: the nation is rated 116 International’s out of 182 on Transparency global index. to pay Vietnamese people have backhanders for everything an from getting taxi; Duong Dong to Vong Beach costs about 250,000d. Vietnam Today changed as much places on earth have Few as Vietnam in the last few One of decades. the poorest, war-wounded corners of the globe has transformed itself into a stable, prospering nation through industriousness, and ambition. Theingenuity overall stand- and educa- ard of living has risen incredibly, greatly improved.tion and healthcare have Blue-chip UNDERSTAND VIETNAM UNDERSTAND Gia at 8.05am and Phu Quoc at 1.05pm; 2½ hours. Superdong 8 Phu Quoc’s airport is in central Duong Dong. Motorbike drivers charge US$1 to US$2 to most places on Long Beach. A metered taxi costs around 90,000d to Long Beach and 250,000d to Ong Lang Beach. hotels from US$3 per day. betweentwo) An Thoi and Duong Dong. A bus (20,000d) waits for the ferry at Bai Vong to take Dong. Duong to passengers matic) per Motorbike day. taxis are everywhere. Short hops cost 20,000d; Quoc Quoc 1-way 295,000d) Departs Rach Gia at 8am, 1pm and 1.30pm and Phu Quoc at 8am, 8.30am hours. 2½ 1pm; and (Bai Vong). Buses, timed to meet the ferries, pick up on Hung Ð Tran Dao and Ð 30 Thang 4 (20,000d). 50,000d for about 5km. $ $ $$ The The ers ers sh in sh ff fi Located VIETNAMESE VIETNAMESE ITALIAN, GERMAN GERMAN ITALIAN, VIETNAMESE, SEAFOOD SEAFOOD VIETNAMESE, 369 2888; www.savanna 399 6677; www.vietnam . fi % % ( ( in a chic setting. avours 397 8111; www.greencruise. fl c pizzas, and they’llc pizzas, even fi 04-3718 8199; www.airmekong. % ( % ( Terri

Getting There & Away Information

384 8773; 89 Ð Tran Hung Dao; mains 65,000- Hung Dao; Tran Ð 89 384 8773; From Ha Tien there are two small boats Rach Gia has two reputable operators servic- % Boat Air on the white sands of Sao Beach, this placeon the white sands of Sao has succulent barbecued seafood and claypots. Savanna Express Savanna com.vn; Hung 14 Ð Tran have Dao), the most up- to-date schedules and can booktickets. 180,000/230,000d) 8am/1.30pm (departing and a car ferry (departing 9.30am from Ha Tien and 2.30pm from Phu Quoc; per passenger/ 145,000d/100,000d/US$50) motorbike/car day. every departing ing the route: com.vn) Flies to/from HCMC (from 450,000d, four daily) and Hanoi (from 2,230,000d, two daily). 190,000d) deliver to your hotel. deliver to your express.com; 1-way 295,000d) Departs Rach Departs Rach 295,000d) 1-way express.com; Hydrofoils to/from the mainland dock at Bai Vong on the east of the island, connecting Phu Quoc to both Ha Tien (1½ hours)and Rach Gia (2½ hours). Phu Quoc travel agents, such as Cruise Green Vietnam Airlines Airlines Vietnam Demand can be high in peak season, so book ahead. A new international airport should open 2012. early in free internet and wi- 8 8 There are in Duong ATMs Dong and in many resorts on Long Beach. Buddy Ice Cream o My Lan Beach) Sao (mains 55,000-110,000d, AROUND THE ISLAND THE AROUND ( Pepper’s Pizza & Grill Pizza Pepper’s Hop Inn Hop Inn 50,000-130,000d) mains Dao; Hung Tran (Ð meatballs, garlic prawns), Western break- Western prawns), garlic meatballs, Asianfasts and Air Mekong Air airlines.com; 122 Ð Nguyen Flies Trung Truc) to/from Rach Gia (from 500,000d, daily), Can Tho (from 500,000d, daily) and HCMC (from daily). 10 450,000d, best Vietnamese food on the Tran Hung Dao Hung best Vietnamese on the Tran food as well as of seafood, plenty strip, including if you fancysandwiches more familiar fare.

UNDERSTAND8VIETNAM TODAY VIETNAM

VIETNAM 892 893 internet connection to securing a hospital ap- pointment. At the highest level, corrupt politi- VIETNAM BY NUMBERS cians have been caught demanding millions of dollars to facilitate infrastructure projects. Population 90.5 million Life expectancy The State 69 for men, 75 for women VIETNAM Observers argue that this is why Vietnam Infant mortality 21 per 1000 births VIETNAM needs to embrace democracy: to hold those GDP US$104.6 billion in power accountable for their actions. Such a prospect seems a distant dream; there’s Adult literacy rate 94% UNDERSTANDHISTORY VIETNAM no sign that the Communist Party is con- Annual rice production THE STATE templating relaxing control. The state still 36 million tonnes controls a vast swath of the economy. More Number of mobile phones than 100 of the 200 biggest companies in 98 million plus Vietnam are state-owned and the key sec- tors of oil production, shipbuilding, cement, Litres of nuoc mam (fi sh sauce) coal and rubber are government-controlled. produced per year 200 million Political dissent remains a no-no; some democracy movement members are sent to prison for spreading ‘anti-state propaganda’. Also, State of the Nation the entire nation’s internet operates behind Most Vietnamese people have accepted the a fi rewall that blocks anything – including status quo, for now. They’re living in an age Facebook – that might lead to trouble. of rising prosperity. Times are pretty good, for most, though infl ation (running at 22% Vietnam’s Place in the World in September 2011) is a huge concern. The In 2000 Bill Clinton became the fi rst US country is stable and tourism is booming, president to visit northern Vietnam. George empowering a new generation of young Vi- W Bush followed suit in 2006. Today rela- ets to a better life. Of course, if things turn tions with the USA are politically cordial sour, the tide may turn, but for now the out- and economically vibrant (bilateral trade look looks decent as long as opportunities was worth over US$18 billion in 2010). US remain and the economy prospers. and Vietnamese militaries hold annual De- fense Policy Dialogue talks. Vietnam’s sup- pression of political dissent and issues of History freedom of speech and religion remain areas Vietnam has a history as rich and evocative of contention, however. For the Vietnamese, as anywhere on earth. Sure, the war with the the legacy of Agent Orange and dioxin poi- USA captured the attention of the West, but soning remains unresolved – the USA has centuries before that the Vietnamese were never paid a cent in compensation to the scrapping with the Chinese, the Khmers, estimated three million victims of dioxin the Chams and the Mongols. Vietnamese poisoning resulting from aerial bombing. civilisation is as sophisticated as that of its Relations with Vietnam’s historical mighty northern neighbour China, from enemy China have improved signifi cantly. where it drew many of its infl uences un- Trade is booming, borders are hyper-busy der a 1000-year occupation. Later came the and joint cooperation in everything from French and the humbling period of colonial- steel manufacturing to naval patrols contin- ism, from which Vietnam was not to emerge ues. Mandarin is the second most popular until the second half of the 20th century. foreign language studied in Vietnam. The The USA was simply the last in a long line of Spratly Islands, rich in oil deposits, remain invaders who have come and gone through a potential fl ash point, however, with both the centuries and, no matter what was re- nations claiming sovereignty. quired or how long it took, they too would Vietnam counterbalances power politics be vanquished. If only the military planners with China and the USA with active mem- in Washington had paid a little more atten- bership of Asean and by fostering important tion to the history of this proud nation, the links with India, Russia and former Soviet trauma and tragedy of a long war might Bloc countries (from which it buys most of have been avoided. its military hardware). - fi orts to reassert control soon ff The Geneva Accords of mid-1954 pro- The Geneva Accords of mid-1954 In AD 938 Ngo Quyen destroyed Chinese AD 938 Ngo Quyen In During WWII, the only group that signi ed by both Vietnamese resistance and the in 1925. Chi Minh rst organised by Ho Contact with the West vided for a temporary division of Vietnam Diem, When Ngo Dinh River. at the Ben Hai the anti-communist, Catholic leader of the southern zone, refused to hold the 1956 elec- line became the border tions, the Ben Hai North and South Vietnam.between led to violent confrontations and full-scale 1954, Viet forces overran Minh May In war. at Dien Bien Phu. garrison the French cantly resisted the Japanese occupation was cantly resisted the Japanese the communist-dominated Viet When Minh. – whose Viet Chi Minh WWII ended, Ho forces already controlled large partsMinh of the country – declared Vietnam indepen- e dent. French forces on the Bach Dang river, winning in- river, forces on the Bach Dang the startdependence and signalling of a subsequent cen- dynastic tradition. During turies the Vietnamese successfully repulsed including the Monguls, foreign invaders, and absorbed the kingdom of Champa in as they1471 expanded south. adoption of many Chineseadoption of many cultural traits. fi and 1858 a joint military In force from France of the Philippines stormedthe Spanish colony Danang after several missionaries were killed. 1883 Saigon was seized. By Early the next year, of Protector- imposed a Treaty had the French rule often provedate on Vietnam. French the most suc- Ultimately, cruel and arbitrary. cessful resistance came from the communists, fi (Bill Hayton) A candid assessment candid A (Bill Hayton) (Graham Greene) Classic novel set in 1950s in set novel Classic Greene) (Graham (Bao Ninh) The North Vietnamese perspective Vietnamese The North (Bao Ninh) (Andrew X Pham) Biographical tale of a Vietnamese-American a of tale Pham) Biographical X (Andrew (1978) Director: Michael Cimino Director: (1978) (1979) Director: Francis Ford Coppola Ford Francis Director: (1979) FILM & LITERATURE (1992) Director: Jean-Jacques Annaud Jean-Jacques (1992) Director: (1986) Director: Oliver Stone Oliver (1986) Director: (1995) Director: Anh Hung Tran Anh Hung (1995) Director: ourished from the 1stourished to 6th cen- fl sh & Mandala

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The Lover The Lover Platoon The Deer Hunter The Deer Apocalypse Now Apocalypse Cyclo The Sorrow of War War of The Sorrow Rising Dragon Vietnam: Cat Film Literature American The Quiet VIETNAM IN IN VIETNAM However, the early Viets learned much However, Meanwhile, around present-day Danang, around present-day Meanwhile, Chinese Occupation

Early Vietnam The Chinese Delta conquered the Red River in the 2nd century BC and over the follow- to impress a cen- ing centuries attempted tralised state system on the Vietnamese. There were numerous small-scale rebellions against Chinese rule – which was character- forced labour and insatiable ised by tyranny, the 3rddemands for tribute – between and 6th centuries, but all were defeated. from the Chinese, advanced irriga- including tion for rice cultivation and medical knowl- and edge as well as Confucianism, Taoism of the 1000- Buddhism. Much Mahayana year period of Chinese occupation was typi- the Hindu kingdom of Champa emerged inthe Hindu it adopt- the late 2nd Funan, century Like AD. ed Sanskrit as a sacred language and bor- art and culture. from Indian rowed heavily By the 8th century Champa had expanded and Phan to include what is now Nha Trang Rang. The Cham warred constantly with the Vietnamese to the north and the Khmers to the south and ultimately found themselves great powers. these two squeezed between turies AD in the Mekong Delta area. Ar- turies AD in the Mekong chaeological evidencereveals that Funan’s busy trading port of Oc-Eo had contact with and even the Mediterra- Persia China, India, the mid-6thnean. Between century and the was absorbed empire the Funan 9th century, kingdom of Chenla.by the pre-Angkorian of kingdom The sophisticated Indianised Funan

UNDERSTANDEARLYHISTORY VIETNAM VIETNAM

VIETNAM 894 895 The War in Vietnam Reunifi cation Around 1960, the Hanoi government Saigon surrendered to the NVA on 30 April changed its policy of opposition to the Diem 1975. Vietnam’s reunifi cation by the com- regime from one of ‘political struggle’ to one munists meant liberation from more than a of ‘armed struggle’. The National Liberation century of colonial oppression, but was soon Front (NLF), a communist guerrilla group followed by large-scale internal repression. VIETNAM better known as the Viet Cong (VC), was Hundreds of thousands of southerners fl ed VIETNAM founded to fi ght against Diem. Vietnam, creating a fl ood of refugees for the An unpopular ruler, Diem was assassinat- next 15 years. ed in 1963 by his own troops. When the Ha- Vietnam’s campaign of repression against UNDERSTANDHISTORY VIETNAM noi government ordered North Vietnamese the ethnic Chinese, plus its invasion of Cam- THE WAR IN VIETNAM Army (NVA) units to infi ltrate the South in bodia at the end of 1978, prompted China to 1964, the situation for the Saigon regime be- attack Vietnam in 1979. The war lasted only came desperate. In 1965 the USA committed 17 days, but Chinese-Vietnamese mistrust its fi rst combat troops, soon joined by sol- lasted for well over a decade. diers from South Korea, Australia, Thailand and New Zealand in an eff ort to bring global Post-Cold War legitimacy to the confl ict. After the collapse of the Soviet Union in 1991, As Vietnam celebrated the Lunar New Vietnam and Western nations sought rap- Year in 1968, the VC launched a surprise at- prochement. The 1990s brought foreign in- tack, known as the Tet Off ensive, marking vestment and Association of Southeast Asian a crucial turning point in the war. Many Nations (Asean) membership. The US estab- Americans, who had for years believed lished diplomatic relations with Vietnam in their government’s insistence that the USA 1995, and Bill Clinton and George W Bush was winning, started demanding a negoti- visited Hanoi. Vietnam was welcomed into ated end to the war. The Paris Agreements, the World Trade Organisation (WTO) in 2007. signed in 1973, provided for a ceasefi re, the Relations have also greatly improved with total withdrawal of US combat forces and the historic enemy China, with Vietnam’s the release of American prisoners of war. economic boom catching Beijing’s attention.

UNCLE OF THE PEOPLE

Father of the nation, Ho Chi Minh (Bringer of Light) was the son of a fi ercely nationalistic scholar-offi cial. Born Nguyen Tat Thanh near Vinh in 1890, he was educated in Hue and adopted many pseudonyms during his momentous life. Many Vietnamese aff ectionately refer to him as Bac Ho (Uncle Ho) today. In 1911 he signed up as a cook’s apprentice on a French ship, sailing the seas to North America, Africa and Europe. While odd-jobbing in England and France as a gardener, snow sweeper, waiter, photo-retoucher and stoker, his political consciousness developed. Ho Chi Minh moved to Paris, where he mastered languages including English, French, German and Mandarin and began to promote the issue of Indochinese independence. He was a founding member of the French Communist Party in 1920. In 1941 Ho Chi Minh returned to Vietnam for the fi rst time in 30 years, and established the Viet Minh (whose goal was independence from France). As Japan prepared to surrender in August 1945, Ho Chi Minh led the August Revolution, and his forces then established control throughout much of Vietnam. The return of the French compelled the Viet Minh to conduct a guerrilla war, which ultimately lead to victory against the colonists at Dien Bien Phu in 1954. Ho then lead North Vietnam until his death in September 1969 – he never lived to see the North’s victory over the South. Since then the party has worked hard to preserve the image and reputation of Bac Ho. His image dominates contemporary Vietnam. This cult of personality is in stark contrast to the simplicity with which Ho lived his life. For more Ho, check out Ho Chi Minh, the excellent biography by William J Duiker. cial and business- fi ) are a major draw. 858 ted most from overseas overseas from most ted fi Youth culture is most vibrant in HCMC Youth The contemporary work of painters and Cao Daism is a unique and colourful a unique is Daism Cao There Muslims also small numbers of are nity, the punk band Giao Chi the punk and alt-roots nity, Arts band 6789. Sculpture Vietnamese sculpture has traditionally cen- tred on religious themes and has functioned photographers covers a wide swath of stylesphotographers covers a the modern Viet-and gives a glimpse into good galleries innamese psyche; there are An. HCMC and Hoi Hanoi, more freedom for where there’s and Hanoi, musicians and artists. Theresmall hip are Rock out Hanoi’s hop, rock and punk (check include rock bands Hot and DJ scenes. City) metal merchants Black In- band Microwave, fi Architecture The Vietnamese were not great builders like Early Vietnam- their neighbours the Khmer. ese structures were made of wood and other materials that proved highly vulnerable in the tropical climate. The grand exceptions are the stunning towers built by Vietnam’s ancient Cham culture. These are most numerous in central Vietnam. The Cham ruins Son (p at My Contemporary Art & Music classi- to catch modern dance, It is possible and Ho in Hanoi cal ballet plays and stage (HCMC). City Chi Minh Vietnamese sect in the founded that was 1920s. secular It combines phi- religious and and is based and West, of the East losophies revealed messages on seance to the group’s Chieu. Ngo Minh founder, (50,000). and Hindus (around 60,000) cant percentage of fi and 2% ethnic Chinese;

Some older Southerners have never forgiven the North for bulldozing its war cemeter- war its bulldozing the North for forgiven never have older Southerners Some The war may be history, but prejudice is alive and well. For many Southerners the Southerners many For and well. is alive but prejudice be history, may The war

ies, imposing communism and blackballing whole families. While some of their peers in their peers of While some whole families. and blackballing communism imposing ies, Luckily for own. its against siding with the USA for the South forgiven never the North have history. in this harrowing interest less have to seems generation today’s Vietnam, obsessed. stereo typical Northerner has a ‘hard face’, is too serious and doesn’t know how to have have to how know and doesn’t serious is too face’, ‘hard Northerner has a typical stereo super too are the Southerners Northerners many for Conversely, fun. investment as Viet Kieu (overseas Vietnamese, the vast majority of whom are Southern- are whom of majority the vast Vietnamese, Kieu (overseas Viet as investment at growing was economy HCMC’s In 2011 in the region. and invested returned have ers) 5.5%). to compared (10.3% double the national rate THE NORTH–SOUTH THE DIVIDE bene that’s the South It’s divide lingers. The North–South As in other parts of Asia, life revolves is 84% ethnic population Vi- Vietnam’s Vietnam has a signi Religion

Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism Over the centuries, Confucianism, Taoism fused with popular Chi- and Buddhism have nese beliefs and ancient Vietnamese animism collectively known as the Tri- to form what’s Vietnamese Giao). Most ple Religion (Tam people identify with this belief system, but they’llif asked, they’re Buddhist. usually say Catholics (8% to 10% of the total population). around the family; there are oftenaround the family; there several Poverty, one roof. generations living under a largely agriculturaland the transition from societyto that of a more industrialised nation, seeking their fortune people sends many to the bigger the structure cities, and is changing up make Women of the modern family unit. workforce but are not well of the nation’s 52% of power. represented in positions etnamese (Kinh) the rest is made up of Khmers, Chams and people,members of more than 50 minority who mainly live in highland areas. The proud Vietnamese are battle-hardened, earned their as theyand nationalist, have the skirmishes with stripes in successive the old- that’s mightiest powers. But world’s who remember everyer generation, inch of thethe territory for which they For fought. new generation, Vietnam is a place to suc- the staid structuresceed, a place to ignore set in stone by the communists, and a place some fun. to go out and have Culture & People Trade and tourism is burgeoning across mu- across is burgeoning tourism and Trade tual borders.

UNDERSTANDRELIGIONCULTURE & PEOPLE VIETNAM

VIETNAM 896 897 as an adjunct to architecture, especially that of pagodas, temples and tombs. A RIGHT ROYAL FOOD CRITIC The Cham civilisation produced exquisite carved sandstone fi gures for its Hindu and Emperor Tu Duc (1848–83) expected 50 Buddhist sanctuaries. The largest single col- dishes to be prepared by 50 cooks to be lection of Cham sculpture is at the Museum served by 50 servants at every meal. And his tea had to be made from the dew that VIETNAM of Cham Sculpture (p851 ) in Danang. VIETNAM accumulated on leaves overnight. Water Puppetry Vietnam’s ancient art of roi nuoc (water puppetry) originated in northern Vietnam infl uence and hearty soups like pho typify UNDERSTANDPOLITICS & GOVERNMENT VIETNAM at least 1000 years ago. Developed by rice Northern cuisine. Central Vietnamese food FOOD farmers, the wooden puppets were manipu- is known for its prodigious use of fresh lated by puppeteers using water-fl ooded herbs and intricate fl avours; Hue imperial rice paddies as their stage. Hanoi is the best cuisine and Hoi An specialities are key to place to see water-puppetry performances, this area. Southern food is sweet, spicy and which are accompanied by music played on tropical – its curries will be familiar to lovers traditional instruments. of Thai and Cambodian food. Everywhere you’ll fi nd Vietnamese meals are superbly prepared and excellent value. Politics & Government The range of prices for dining out in this Vietnam’s political system could not be sim- chapter are based on a typical meal, exclud- pler: the Community Party is the sole source ing drinks: of power. Offi cially, according to the Viet- Budget ($) under US$5 namese constitution, the National Assembly Midrange ($$) between US$5 and US$15 (or parliament) is the country’s supreme au- Top End ($$$) over US$15 thority, as it selects the President and Prime Minister and manages the legal system. The reality is that National Assembly is a tool of Most restaurants trade seven days a week, the Party and its carefully controlled elec- opening around 7am or 8am and closing tions typify the kind of voting process you’d around 9pm, often later in the big cities. expect in a one-party state. Currently, 90% Where opening hours diff er from these, of delegates are Community Party members. we’ve provided details in the guide. Offi cially, communism is still king, but Fruit there can be few party hacks who really believe Vietnam is a Marxist utopia. Mar- Aside from the usual delightful Southeast ket-oriented socialism is the new mantra, Asian fruits, Vietnam has its own unique although socially responsible capitalism trai thanh long (green dragon fruit), a might be nearer the mark. Foreign invest- bright fuchsia-coloured fruit with green ment is booming. Capitalism thrives like scales. Grown mainly in the coastal region never before, the dynamic private sector near Nha Trang, it has white fl esh fl ecked driving the economy. On the street, everyone with edible black seeds, and tastes some- seems to be out to make a fast buck. Fast. thing like a mild kiwifruit. Economic liberalisation is ongoing, Meals though any meaningful democratic change Pho is the noodle soup that built a nation still seems a long, long way off . Everything and is eaten at all hours of the day, but es- is geared to safeguard the Party’s grip on pecially for breakfast. Com are rice dishes. power. The media is tightly controlled and You’ll see signs saying pho and com every- critics of the Party are silenced. where. Other noodle soups to try are bun bo Hue and hu tieu. Spring rolls (nem in the North, cha gio Food & Drink in the South) are a speciality. These are Food normally dipped in nuoc mam (fi sh sauce), though many foreigners prefer soy sauce (xi Vietnamese food is one of the world’s great- dau in the North, nuoc tuong in the South). est cuisines; there are said to be nearly 500 Because Buddhist monks of the Mahaya- traditional dishes. It varies a lot between na tradition are strict vegetarians, an chay North, centre and South. Soy sauce, Chinese

ff soda (hot, (ba ba ba (ba ne stu fi ee) is cant loss of bio- ff fi or the ubiquitous usually also serve also usually (co nuoc chanh nong chanh nuoc bia hoi bia cà phê cà don ganh, don prices. Local brews cheaper but are (carbonated mineral water with (carbonated mineral in the south of the country. in the south Foreign soft drinks are widely available Foreign The rapid economic and country’s As the Vietnamese are quick to point out, Unsustainable logging and farming prac- Unsustainable Vietnamese Several brewed foreign labels Vietnam in include and regional brands National but at spirits are available Wine and The LandThe Nonalcoholic Drinks Nonalcoholic and there is no shortage in which of cafes to sample it. in Vietnam. An excellent local treat is chanh lemon and sugar) or population growth over the last decade – demonstrated by the dramatic increase in industrial production, numbers motorbike constructionand helter-skelter – has put additional pressure on the already-stressed environment. it resembles a bamboo pole with a basket rice slung of from each end. The baskets represent the logical diversity, but also in a harder exist- but also in a harder logical diversity, people. minority ence for many Vietnam stretches more than 1600km along peninsula. the east coast of the Indochinese The land area is 329,566 sq km, country’s making it slightly larger than Italy and a bit smaller than Japan. Environment & Wildlife in Viet- consciousness is low Environmental nam. Rapid industrialisation, deforestation and pollution are major problems facing the country. extensive spraying tices, as well as the US’s of defoliants during the war in Vietnam, contributed to deforestation. This hashave resulted not only in signi Places that serve that Places been Whatever sure that it’s you drink, make the is generally safe on Ice boiled or bottled. not be elsewhere. tourist trail, but may cheap food. cheap and Carlsberg Tiger, licence include under Heineken. and in the north, Huda and Hanoi Halida Larue 333 the centre, and BGI and in ba) higher drinkable. not always sweetened lemon juice). which which mean (ice cream) or kem ord a round and you bia hoi,bia ff starts at around 4000d a banh it nhan dau, nhan it banh is the one sh sauce) fi ( a cold, refreshing sweet soup bia hoi bia yer heed’ for just a few bucks. ff sh in large ceramic vats for four four for vats ceramic sh in large fi Made from fresh, stir-fried corn, from Made Shakes made with milk and sugar made Shakes Nearly microscopic shrimp, fresh microscopic shrimp, Nearly che, (yoghurt), which is generally of good

Nuoc mam THERE’S SOMETHING FISHY HERE…AROUND that is quintessentially ingredient a distinctive and it lends Vietnamese, The cooking. Vietnamese to character highly fermenting is made by sauce salted high- insist Connoisseurs 12 months. to has a much milder aroma sauce grade Dissenters variety. than the cheaper very It’s weapon. it is a chemical insist and as a dipping sauce, used often on a salt by occupied the place takes table. Western Most foreigners prefer foreigners prefer Most Try There other Vietnameseare also many Alcoholic Drinks Alcoholic Drink Sweets Snacks also contains sugar and bean paste and isalso contains sugar and leaf. sold wrapped in banana yaourt quality. made with sweetened black bean, green served in a glass with ice bean or corn. It’s and sweet on top. coconut cream

chillies and tiny shrimp. tiny chillies and or yoghurt, and fresh tropical fruit.

lettuce and thin slices of Vietnamese and thin slices lettuce paper and dippedsausage rolled up in rice in a spicy-sweet sauce. peanut ‘draught beer’. Probably the cheapest beer in Probably beer’. ‘draught the world, glass, so anyone can a glass, so anyone can get ‘o

the words Memorise Many sticky confections are made from sticky Many rice, like sticky Sinh to Sinh Bo bia bia Bo Bap xao Bap nibbles to try following: including the Street every-vendors are roaming stalls or steamed sweetwhere, selling potatoes, rice ice-cream bars evenporridge and in the wee hours. (vegetarian cooking) is an integral partan integral is cooking) of (vegetarian Vietnamese cuisine.

UNDERSTANDDRINKENVIRONMENT VIETNAM & WILDLIFE

VIETNAM 898 899 National Parks BEWARE YOUR BLEND The number of national parks in the country Some consider chon to be the high- has been rapidly expanding and there are est grade of Vietnamese coff ee. It is now 30, covering about 3% of Vietnam’s to- made of beans fed to a certain species tal territory. In the north the most interest- of weasel and later collected from its ing and accessible include Cat Ba (p829 ), Bai VIETNAM excrement. Tu Long (see boxed text, p830 ), Ba Be (p835 ) VIETNAM and Cuc Phuong (p827 ). Heading south Phong Nha-Ke Bang (p842 ), Bach Ma Na- main rice-growing regions of the Red River tional Park (p849 ), Yok Don National Park SURVIVALDIRECTORY GUIDE A–Z Delta in the north, and the Mekong Delta in (p871 ) and Cat Tien National Park (p871 ) are WILDLIFE the south. well worth investigating. Of several interesting geological fea- With the help of NGOs, the Vietnam- tures found in Vietnam, the most striking ese government is taking steps to expand are its spectacular karst formations (lime- national-park boundaries, crack down on stone peaks with caves and underground illegal poaching and educate and employ streams). The northern half of Vietnam has people living in national-park buff er zones. a spectacular array of karst areas, particu- It’s a long process. larly around Halong Bay (p828 ), Tam Coc Flora and Fauna International produces (p827 ) and Phong Nha (p842 ) the excellent Nature Tourism Map of Viet- nam, which includes detailed coverage of all Wildlife the national parks in Vietnam. All proceeds from sales of the map go towards supporting Because Vietnam has such a wide range of primate conservation. habitats, fauna here is enormously diverse; its forests are estimated to contain 12,000 plant species, only 7000 of which have been identifi ed. Vietnam is home to more than 275 SURVIVAL GUIDE species of mammal, 800 species of bird, 180 species of reptile and 80 species of amphibian. In the 1990s, one species of muntjac (deer) DIRECTORY A–Z and an ox similar to an oryx were discovered Accommodation in Vietnam – the only newly identifi ed large In general, accommodation in Vietnam off ers mammals in the world in the last 60 years. superb value for money and excellent facili- Tragically, Vietnam’s wildlife is in precipi- ties. In big cities and the main tourism cen- tous decline as forest habitats are destroyed tres you’ll fi nd everything from hostel dorm and waterways become polluted. Illegal beds to uber-luxe hotels. Cleanliness is gener- hunting has also exterminated the local pop- ally good and there are very few real dumps. ulations of certain animals, in some cases Most hotels in Vietnam quote prices in Vi- eliminating entire species. Offi cially, the Vi- etnamese dong and/or US dollars. Prices are etnamese government recognises 57 mam- quoted in dong or dollars throughout this mal species (including several primates) and chapter based on the preferred currency of 64 bird species as endangered. the particular property. The range of prices Many offi cials still turn a blind eye to the used in this chapter are as follows: trade in wildlife for export and domestic consumption, though laws are in place to Budget ($) most rooms cost less than protect the animals. Poachers continue to US$25 (525,000d) a night. Dorm-bed profi t from meeting the demand for exotic prices are given individually. animals for pets and traditional medicines. Midrange ($$) rooms cost between Tragically, one of mainland Asia’s few re- US$25 (525,000d) and US$50 (1,050,000d) maining Javan rhino (there are thought to Top End ($$$) over US$50 (1,050,000d) be less than 10) was killed for its horn inside These refl ect high-season rates; discounts Cat Tien National Park in 2010. are often available at quiet times of year. Animal welfare is not yet a priority in Hostel dorm beds (around US$3 to US$6) Vietnamese culture, evidenced by the appal- are usually the cheapest options, but these ingly inadequate conditions for caged only exist in a few backpacker centres such as wildlife found throughout Vietnam. Nha Trang, Ho Chi Minh City, Hue and Hanoi.

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820 876 822 % » » » Electricity Consulates & Embassies Babies & Infants Customs Regulations p HCMC 3000; 27 P Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh District) Lieu Giai, P 3000; 27 pasta, burgers and ice cream) is available in available is cream) and ice burgers pasta, too. most places Duc Thang) Duc p Germany Japan (Map p Cambodia (Map p Canada China (Map p France (Map p 50 cycles. Sockets are two is 220V, Voltage pin, round head. See p Australia ( HCMC the major cities. in are available Baby supplies rare, and car safetyCot beds are virtually seats non-existent. in public is Breastfeeding Bear in mind that customs seize may suspected treas- antiques or other ‘cultural you do purchase authentic or repro- If ures’. duction antiques geta receipt and customs limits Duty seller. clearance form from the are as follows: keeping an eye in- on what strange things keeping in their mouths: remember fants are putting and hepatitis are com- typhoid dysentery, levels their hydration up, andmon. Keep slap on the sunscreen. vietnam) p 10th fl, 235 Ð Dong Khoi) 235 Ð Dong fl, 10th [email protected]; 71A P Tran Hung Dao) Tran P 71A [email protected]; Khai) Hung Vuong) (US$7000 and greater) must be declared. and greater) (US$7000 ash fl cially ffi . ). fi 835 ces are usually open ffi ood back into the country. into the country. ood back ), the White Thai of villages fl ) and Ba Be (p 886 836 ces are generally open from 6.30am ffi

Kids generally enjoy local cuisine, which Post o owned shops, res- small, privately Many most bars in Vietnam o By law, Areas that are well set up include the Me- Be aware that some hotels apply a 10% that some hotels apply Be aware premium during Accommodation is at a When it comes to midrange places, to midrange places, When it comes ces and other public buildings are usual- ﬃ Children Business Hours Business Homestays

Children a good time in Vietnam. get to have There close are some great beaches, but pay in the sea, as there playtime to any attention are some big riptides. is rarely too spicy; the range of fruit is stag- gering. Comfort food from home (pizzas, until noon on Saturday and closed Sunday. and closed Sunday. until noon on Saturday Tem- museums are closed on Monday. Most every day. ples are usually open all day, open seventaurants and street stalls stay a week, often until late at night. days close at midnight and the fun police often in major centres such enforce this. However, a few late-nightas HCMC there are always places. to 9pm. Government o O ly open from 7am or 8am to 11am or 11.30am and again from 1pm or 2pm to 4pm or 5pm. Banks tend to be open during these hours and until 11.30am on Saturday. kong Delta (p kong Homestays are popular in parts of Vietnam, Homestays highly advisable not to just drop into but it’s and hope thingsa random tribal village work out, as there are strict rules about reg- overnight. stay istering foreigners who Chau (p Mai a bit more cash and three-star touches are and three-star touches a bit more cash decor or access to a such as chic available, swimming pool. sales tax. Check before taking a room carefully unpleasant shocks on departure. any to avoid whenFebruary), or early (late January Tet the whole country is on the move and overseas Vietnamese by 25% or more. Christmas can rise Prices season. represent another high Year and New Guesthouses are the next are Guesthouses level here rooms up, cost from and private bathrooms often have above guest- A class to US$20. US$7 around more come with typically minihotels houses, TV satellite amenities: wi- and free

SURVIVALBUSINESSDIRECTORY GUIDEHOURS A–Z

VIETNAM 900 901 Laos (www.embalaohanoi.gov.la) Danang (12 Ð can buy, extend or claim anytime – even if Tran Qui Cap); Hanoi (Map p822 ; %3942 4576; you’re already on the road. 22 P Tran Binh Trong); HCMC (Map p878 ; %3829 7667; 93 Ð Pasteur) Language Courses Netherlands (www.netherlands-embassy.org. Vietnamese language courses are off ered in vn) Hanoi (%3831 5650; 6th fl, Daeha Office HCMC, Hanoi and elsewhere. Lessons usu- VIETNAM Tower, 360 Kim Ma St, Ba Dinh); HCMC (Map ally cost from US$5 to US$10 per hour. De- VIETNAM p878 ; %3823 5932; Saigon Tower, 29 ÐL Le Duan) cide whether you want to study in northern or southern Vietnam, because the regional New Zealand (www.nzembassy.com/viet-nam) dialects are very diff erent. Hanoi (Map p816 ; %3824 1481; Level 5, 63 P Ly SURVIVALDIRECTORY GUIDE A–Z Thai To); HCMC (Map p878 ; %3827 2745; 8th fl, GAY & LESBIAN TRAVELLERS Legal Matters Metropolitan, 235 Ð Dong Khoi) If you lose something really valuable such Philippines Hanoi (Map p822 ; %3943 7948; as your passport or visa, you’ll need to con- [email protected]; 27B P Tran Hung Dao) tact the police. Few foreigners experience Singapore (www.mfa.gov.sg/hanoi) Hanoi much hassle from police, and demands for (Map p820 ; %3848 9168; 41-43 Ð Tran Phu) bribes are rare – it’s a diff erent story for the Sweden (www.swedenabroad.com) Hanoi Vietnamese, though… (%3726 0400; 2 Ð Nui Truc) The Vietnamese government is seriously cracking down on the burgeoning drug Thailand (www.thaiembassy.org) Hanoi trade. You may face imprisonment and/ (Map p820 ; %3823 5092; 63-65 P Hoang Dieu); or large fi nes for drug off ences, and drug HCMC (; %3932 7637; 77 Ð Tran Quoc Thao) traffi cking can be punishable by death. UK (http://ukinvietnam.fco.gov.uk) Hanoi (Map p816 ; %3936 0500; Central Bldg, 31 P Hai Maps Ba Trung); HCMC (Map p876 ; %3829 8433; 25 A must for its detailed road maps of every ÐL Le Duan) province is the Viet Nam Administrative USA (http://vietnam.usembassy.gov) Hanoi Atlas, published by Ban Do. Basic road maps (%3850 5000; 7 P Lang Ha, Ba Dinh District); of major cities such as Hanoi, HCMC, Hue HCMC (Map p876 ; %3822 9433; 4 ÐL Le Duan) and Nha Trang are readily available.

Photography Gay & Lesbian Travellers Vietnam is pretty hassle-free for gay travellers. Memory cards are pretty cheap in Vietnam. There’s not much in the way of harassment, Most internet cafes can also burn photos nor are there offi cial laws on same-sex rela- onto a CD or DVD to free up storage space. tionships. Vietnamese same-sex friends often Photo-processing shops and internet cafes walk with arms around each other or hold- in bigger cities can burn digital photos onto ing hands, and guesthouse proprietors are DVDs. Colour print fi lm is widely available; very unlikely to question the relationship of slide fi lm is available in HCMC and Hanoi. same-sex travel companions. But be discreet – Vietnam’s gorgeous scenery and unique public displays of aff ection are not socially character make for memorable photographs. acceptable whatever your sexual orientation. Inspiration will surely strike when you see a Check out Utopia (www.utopia-asia.com) to row of colourfully dressed hill-tribe women obtain contacts and useful travel information. walking to market, but remember to main- tain an appropriate level of respect for the Insurance people and places you visit. Ask permission Insurance is a must for Vietnam, as the cost before snapping a photo of someone. of major medical treatment is prohibitive. A travel-insurance policy to cover theft, loss Post and medical problems is the best bet. International mail from Vietnam is not un- Some insurance policies specifi cally ex- reasonably priced when compared with most clude such ‘dangerous activities’ as riding countries, though parcels mailed from small- motorbikes, diving and even trekking. Check er cities and towns may take longer to arrive that the policy covers an emergency evacua- at their destinations. Be aware that customs tion in the event of serious injury. inspect the contents before you ship any- Worldwide travel insurance is available at thing other than documents, so don’t show www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services. You up at the post offi ce with a carefully wrapped erent nitely ff fi reliable touch any touch c coming at ffi (www.lonelyplanet. never

610-521 0339; www. 0339; 610-521 % ( Disabilities c, a lack of lifts in smaller Thorn Tree Thorn ffi t. fi ned paths and and paths ned fi ces in Vietnam have a di ces in Vietnam have ces’. ffi ffi de is a good place to seek the advice of gory elevators, and disabled access have You might also try contacting the follow- You The Travellers with Disabilities forum on with Disabilities The Travellers The hazards for blind travellers in Viet- The hazards for blind travellers That said, with some careful planning it Travellers’ cafes, travel agencies and your cafes, travel Travellers’ ces worldwide. Thesegovernment-owned Travellers withTravellers Time Toilets Information Tourist other disabled travellers. ing organisations: suspicious war relic you might come across. you might war relic suspicious need a sighted companion. Lonely Planet’s you from all directions, so you’ll de nam are pretty acute, with tra nam are pretty Journeys Accessible enterprises are really travel agencies whose enterprises are really travel primary interests are booking tours and turning a pro arrangements. the travel to make company above hotels in the midrange and Many cate is tough,is improving. Bus and train travel but rent a private vehicle with a driver becomes instantlyand almost anywhere accessible. o Tourist of tourist of- philosophy from the majority fi Vietnamplaces for disa- is not the easiest of problems include Tactical bled travellers. the chaotic tra (sidewalks) that arehotels and pavements and motorbikes by parked routinely blocked footstalls. is possible to enjoy your trip. Find a Vietnam is seven ahead of Greenwich hours Time Coordinated Time/Universal Mean no daylight-saving and there’s (GMT/UTC) or summer time. toilets sit-down norm are the Western-style squat bog still survivesbut the odd in some usu- Hotels cheap hotels and bus stations. your wise to bring ally supply a roll, but it’s own while on the road. disabilitytravel.com) com) Stick to Stick fellow travellers are a much better source are a much better fellow travellers of the so-calledof information than most ‘tourist o . safe

Eighth

buu dien buu Vietnamese

A three-day A three-day 3 February – 3 February 1 May 19 May ects everything,including many ash with cameras and jewellery. ﬀ ﬂ 10th of the 3rd day lunar month;

artillery shells, mortars, mines holidays, in Vietnam. If a holidays,

Watch out for petty theft. Drive-by bag out for petty Watch Poste restante works in the larger cities in the larger works restante Poste Since 1975 many thousands of Viet- thousands of Since 1975 many the words with are marked ces Safe Travel Public Holidays Public Vietnamese New Year (Tet) Year Vietnamese New of the Anniversary of the Founding Vietnamese Party Communist (Thanh Lap CSVN) Dang Kings Commemorations (Hung Hung Vuong) 1 January or February January late national holiday; was founded in 1930 the date the Party New Year’s Day (Tet Duong Lich) (Tet Day Year’s New public holiday falls on a weekend, it is falls on a weekend, public holiday observed on the following Monday. National Day (Quoc Khanh) Day National day of the fourth of day moon (usually June) Chi2 September – commemorates Ho in 1945 of Independence Declaration Minh’s

All in all, Vietnam is an extremely country Sure, there are scams and to travel. hassles in some cities, particularly in Hanoi dealt with in which we’ve and Nha Trang, relevant sections the of the book. But overall grip on social or- tight a pretty police keep der and we very rarely receive reports about muggings, armed robberies and sexual assaults. are not uncommon,snatchers on motorbikes and thievestrains and boats. patrol buses, Don’t be public

Politics a Politics parcel ready to go. It will be dissectedwill be go. It to ready parcel on the table. on it elsewhere. count but don’t of- All post ﬁ International Workers’ Day Workers’ International Lao Dong) (Quoc Te Birthday Chi Minh’s Ho (Sinh Nhat Bac Ho) Birthday (Phat Dan) Buddha’s Liberation Day (Saigon Giai Phong) (Saigon Liberation Day Saigon’s 30 April – the date on which nationwide surrender is commemorated as Liberation Day late March or April late March namese have been maimed or killed bynamese have rockets, and other ordnance left over from the war.

SURVIVALPUBLICDIRECTORY HOLIDAYS GUIDE A–Z

VIETNAM 902 903 Mobility International USA (%54-1343 1284; www.miusa.org) VIETNAM VISA AGENTS Royal Association for Disability and If you’re arriving by air, it’s now usually Rehabilitation (Radar; %020-7250 3222; easiest and cheapest to get your visa www.radar.org.uk) approved in advance through a visa Society for Accessible Travel & Hospi- service company or travel agent. This VIETNAM system does not operate at land border VIETNAM tality (SATH; %212-447 7284; www.sath.org) crossings. The company or agent will need Visas passport details, and will then email Most nationalities have to endure the hassle SURVIVALDIRECTORY GUIDE A–Z you an approval document two to three VISAS of pre-arranging a visa (or approval letter) days later, which you need to print and in order to enter Vietnam. Entry and exit bring with you to the airport. On arrival points include Hanoi, HCMC and Danang you need to present the approval docu- airports or any of the plentiful land borders, ment and passport picture then pay a shared with Cambodia, China and Laos. stamping fee (US$25 for single-entry, Certain favoured nationalities (see below) US$50 for multiple-entry visas). qualify for an automatic visa on arrival. Every- Recommended companies include one else has to sort out a visa in advance. Vietnam Visa Center (www.vietnam Arranging the paperwork has become fairly visacenter.org) and Visa Vietnam (www. straightforward, but it remains expensive and visatovietnam.org). unnecessarily time-consuming. Processing a tourist-visa application typically takes four or fi ve working days in Western countries. to apply for another visa. However, you must Tourist visas are valid for a 30-day or 90- apply for a multiple-entry visa before you day stay (and can be single or multiple entry). leave Vietnam. In Asia the best place to pick up a Viet- Multiple-entry visas are easiest to arrange namese visa is Cambodia, where it costs in Hanoi or HCMC, but you will almost cer- around US$45 and can be arranged the tainly have to ask a travel agent to do the same day. Bangkok is also a popular place. paperwork for you. Travel agents charge If you plan to spend more than a month about US$45; the procedure takes up to in Vietnam, or if you plan to exit Vietnam seven days. and enter again from Cambodia or Laos, arrange a 90-day multiple-entry visa. These Visa Extensions cost around US$95 in Cambodia, but are not If you’ve got the dollars, they’ve got the available from all Vietnamese embassies. rubber stamp. Tourist-visa extensions offi - In our experience personal appearance cially cost as little as US$10, but it’s advis- infl uences the reception you receive from im- able to pay more go via a travel agency, as migration – if you wear shorts or scruff y cloth- the bureaucracy is deep. The process can ing, or look dirty or unshaven, you can expect take seven days, extensions are 30 to 90 problems. Try your best to look ‘respectable’. days. Extensions are best organised in major Mulitiple-entry Visas cities such as HCMC, Hanoi, Danang and It’s possible to enter Cambodia or Laos from Hue. Vietnam and then re-enter without having

VISA ON ARRIVAL

Citizens of the following countries do not have to apply in advance for a Vietnamese visa. Always double check visa requirements before you travel as policies regularly change.

COUNTRY DAYS Thailand, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Laos, Cambodia 30 Philippines 21 Japan, Korea, Russia, Norway, Denmark, Sweden, Finland, Brunei 15 Kyrgyzstan 90

y fl ights fl cially ffi ights to/ ights fl ight from fl 08-3832 0320) 08-3832 % eet of Airbuses fl ( 08-3845 6654; 6654; 08-3845 051-1383 0339) Only Only 0339) 051-1383 % HCMC % y to Vietnam than other (www.vietnamairlines.com.vn) (www.vietnamairlines.com.vn) ag carrier and has fl fl (SGN; (DAD; (DAD; 04-3827 1513; www.hanoiairport % 04-3832 0320); 0320); 04-3832 % (HAN; (HAN; ( Flights, tours rail tickets and other other and tickets rail tours Flights, at online booked be can services travel www.lonelyplanet.com/travel_services. The airline has a modern Cambodian border crossings are o There’s also a river border crossing be- also a river border crossing There’s It’s hard to get hard reservations for It’s Border Crossings Tickets Airlines online.com) Noi Bai airport serves the capital. airport Danang is the state-owned to 28 international destinations, mainly into 28 international destinations, east Asia. good recent safetyand Boeings, and has a record. Hanoi open daily between 8am and 8pm. open daily between tween Cambodia and Vietnam at Kaamtween on the banks of the Xuong Samnor–Vinh fast boats ply the route be- Regular Mekong. and Chau in Cambodia Phnom Penh tween Doc in Vietnam via this border. Vietnam shares land border crossings with Cambodia, China and Laos. Vietnam visas land borders at the at any were not available time of research. CAMBODIA Cambodia and Vietnam share a long frontier with seven (and counting) border crossings. One-month Cambodian visas are issued on arrival at all border crossings for US$20, but overcharging is common except Bavet at (the most popular crossing). usually America, it’s Europe or North From more expensive to Southeast Asian countries. Consider buying Singaporea discounted ticket to Bangkok, and picking up a Kong or Hong there. Air Asia and other low-cost airlines Ho Chi Minh City Minh Chi Ho Airlines Vietnam to Vietnam. from Vietnam especially during holidays, and late January which falls between Tet, mid-February. has a few international flights, but a new termi- connections. additional in result should nal www.tsnairport.com) Son Tan Nhatairport is Vietnam’s busiest international air hub. Hanoi Always Always

04-3832 8570; www. 8570; 04-3832 % ( (www.vpv.vn)

Donate your skills, Donate your

(www.koto.com.au) , which keeps a database of all of the , which keeps Resource Centre

Jobs in the booming private sector in the booming private or Jobs 903 Airports Air Passport Entering Vietnam Entering Work Volunteering

time or money help give street to children career opportunities. Street Voices’ primary Restaurant in project is KOTO Hanoi.

NGOs assisting Vietnam.NGOs assisting of in need Projects the following: volunteers include

There are three established international airports in Vietnam. A fourth interna- major tional airport, in Phu Quoc, should become fully operational in 2012. passport months must be valid for six Your nationali- upon arrival in Vietnam. Most ties need to arrange a visa in advance (see p international air- at Vietnam’s Formalities ports are generally smoother than at land borders. That said, crossing overland from Cambodia and China is now relatively Vi- stress-free. Crossing the border between etnam and Laos can be slow.

Most travellers enter Vietnam by plane or travellers Most bus, but there are also train links from Chi- na and boat connections from Cambodia via River. the Mekong Getting There & Away

At least 90% of foreign travellers seeking travellers At least 90% of foreign work in Vietnam English, end up teaching demand for French though there is some per can be as low as US$5 teachers too. Pay per and up to US$20 hour at a university hour at a private academy. with NGOs are usually organised outside Vietnam before arriving. Volunteers for Peace for Volunteers Koto

NGO NGO work op- volunteer on information For portunities, of non-the full list chase up at the (NGOs) organisations government looking for volunteers to help in anlooking for volunteers to orphanage on the outskirts of Hanoi. ngocentre.org.vn; Hotel La Thanh, 218 P Doi Can, Can, Doi 218 P Thanh, La Hotel ngocentre.org.vn; Hanoi)

SURVIVALVOLUNTEERINGGETTING THERE GUIDE & AWAY

VIETNAM 904 905 CHINA Air Mekong (www.airmekong.com.vn) Links There are currently three border check- HCMC with Phu Quoc, Dalat, Con Dao and Hanoi. points where foreigners are permitted to Vasco (www.vasco.com.vn) Flies to the Con cross between Vietnam and China: Lao Cai Dao islands from HCMC. (p837 ), Huu Nghi Quan (the Friendship Pass) and Mong Cai p834 ). Bicycle VIETNAM International trains link China and Viet- Bikes are a great way to get around Vietnam, VIETNAM nam, connecting Hanoi with Nanning (and particularly when you get off the main high- even on to Beijing!). The train departs Ha- ways. With the loosening of borders in the noi’s Gia Lam station at 9.40pm daily. The Mekong region, more and more people are journey takes 12 hours and costs 52/76 Swiss planning overland trips by bicycle. GETTING AROUND SURVIVALGETTING GUIDE AIR Francs per hard sleeper/soft sleeper. Note: The main hazard is the traffi c, and it’s you cannot board these international trains wise to avoid certain areas (notably Hwy 1). in Lang Son or Dong Dang. The best cycling is in the northern moun- Trains are currently not operating on the tains and the Central Highlands, although Chinese side of the Lao Cai–Hekou border. you’ll have to cope with some big hills. The If you’re heading for Kunming, you can take Mekong Delta is a rewarding option for sleeper buses from the border. those who prefer the fl at. It is necessary to arrange a Chinese visa Purchasing a good bicycle in Vietnam is in advance. hit-and-miss. It’s recommended that you bring one from abroad, along with a quality LAOS helmet and spare parts. There are seven (and counting) overland Bicycles can also be hired locally from crossings between Vietnam and Laos. guesthouses for about US$2 per day, and are Thirty-day Lao visas are now available at all a great way to get to know a new city. borders. Lao Bao–Dansavanh (p848 ) is the most straightforward route. Boat Try to use direct city-to-city bus connec- The extensive network of canals in the Me- tions between the countries as the potential kong Delta makes getting around by boat hassle is greatly reduced – immigration and feasible in the far south. Travellers to Phu transport scams are very common on the Quoc Island can catch ferries from Ha Tien Vietnamese side of these borders. Bus driv- (p888 ) or Rach Gia (p889 ). ers lie about journey times and some stop in In the country’s northeast, hydrofoils the middle of nowhere and renegotiate the connect Haiphong with Cat Ba Island (near price. Halong Bay), and cruises on Halong Bay are Transport links on both sides of the bor- extremely popular. Day trips to islands off der can be very hit and miss, so don’t use the the coast of Nha Trang, to the Chams off more remote borders unless you have plenty Hoi An and in Lan Ha Bay are also good of time to spare. excursions.

Getting Around Bus Vietnam has an extensive network of buses Air that reach the far-fl ung corners of the coun- Vietnam has good domestic fl ight connec- try. Most are painfully slow and seriously tions, and very aff ordable prices (if you book uncomfortable local services, but modern early). Airlines accept bookings on interna- buses are now increasingly available on all tional credit or debit cards. However, note the main routes. that cancellations are not unknown. Whichever class of bus you’re on, bus Vietnam Airlines and Jetstar are the main travel in Vietnam is never speedy, reckon on carriers, while Air Mekong and Vasco pro- just 50kmh on major routes including Hwy 1. vide additional services: Bus Stations Vietnam Airlines (www.vietnamairlines.com. Many cities have several bus stations – make vn) The leading local carrier with the most comprehensive network and best reliability. sure you get the right one! Bus stations all look chaotic but many now have ticket of- Jetstar Pacific Airlines (www.jetstar.com/vn) This budget airline has very affordable fares, fi ces with offi cial prices and departure times though it only serves the main cities. displayed.

(www.the

Sinh Tourist Excellent tours in the tours Excellent pas- and pick up as many ff Well-organised tours on tours Well-organised Trips in the north, Mekong Mekong in the north, Trips started the concept and has a exibility to visit remote regionsexibility fl Travellers’ cafes, tour agencies and budget cafes, tour agencies Travellers’ 0510-391 1930; www.motorbiketours-hoian. 1930; 0510-391 % LOCAL BUSES Fuel Car & Motorcycle Licence Driving and stop when and where you please. Car hire Motorbike includes a driver. hire always is good value and this can be self-drive or with a driver. sinhtourist.vn) gasoline costs 21,000d per litre. Unleaded isolated communities usually have Even someone selling petrol by the roadside. sengers as possible along their route, so the Con- for a slow journey. frequent stops make ductors overcharge for- tend to routinely eigners on these local services, so they’re not popular with travellers. your own set of wheels gives you Having maximum car in Vietnam, order to drive a you need In a Vietnamese licence and an International all rental compa- However, Driving Permit. nies only rent out cars with drivers. When it a case of no it’s comes to renting motorbikes, licence required. Short-distance buses, most of them pretty decrepit, drop o good reputation. hotels sell tickets. The ; roadvietnam.com) roadvietnam.com) ff 854 ed Minsks; US$150-200 per day. Good rental rental Good per day. US$150-200 ed Minsks; fi 04-3926 2743; www.freewheelin-tours.com; 2A P Ta Hien) Ta P 2A www.freewheelin-tours.com; 2743; 04-3926 (Map p at beds er com- er

fl % ff ; rst-timers. fi ce, as bus er an unrivalled way to explore Vietnam’s scenic scenic Vietnam’s explore to way unrivalled er an ffi ff 814 at any major at any ff Specialises in short trips (from US$35) in the Hoi An region on An region in the Hoi US$35) (from in short trips Specialises 09-1309 3159; www.exploreindochina.com) www.exploreindochina.com) 3159; 09-1309 (Map p 04-3926 3433; www.o 04-3926

04-3926 2373; www.voyagevietnam.net) 2373; 04-3926 % (

% % (

( er tuition for ﬀ c-light back roads. A little experience helps, but many of the leading the leading of but many helps, experience little A roads. back c-light ﬃ

Delta and along HCMC highway; from around US$85 per day. US$85 around from highway; and along HCMC Delta excesses on tra on excesses o also companies ExploreIndochina Tours Wheelin’ Free Specialised motorbike tours o tours motorbike Specialised MOTORBIKE TOURS Voyage Vietnam Offroad Vietnam Hoi An MotorbikeAdventures per US$100 around for Vietnam northern of areas remote to and dirt bikes Honda road US$20). (from bikes Honda road quality rents Also day. Trips and custom-made tours utilising the company’s own homestays. From US$100 US$100 From homestays. own utilising the company’s tours and custom-made Trips four). of (per group per day well-maintained Minsk bikes. well-maintained far north on vintage 650 Urals or modi 650 Urals north on vintage far available. also bikes com; 54A Phan Chau Trinh) Trinh) Phan Chau 54A com; Deluxe buses are nonsmoking. On the Prices are reasonable. A through ticket Prices On rural runs foreigners are typically ipside most of them are equipped with Bus Types Bus Reservations & Costs OPEN TOURS OPEN DELUXE BUSES DELUXE fortable reclining seats or padded for really long trips. These sleeper buses can be a good alternative to long-distance trains, and costs are comparable. ﬂ dreaded karaoke and some with TVs machines. Connecting haunts across the backpacker nation open tour buses are wildly popular in Vietnam. These air-con buses use convenient, centrally located departure points and allow you to hop-on, hop-o city along the main northcity to south route. costs around to Hanoi City Chi Minh from Ho An around US$12. to Hoi Nha Trang US$45,

On most popular routes, modern air-condi- and Chinese buses o tioned Korean

Always buy a ticket from the o Always overcharging.drivers are notorious for Res- ervations aren’t usually required for most of the frequent, popular services between towns and cities. to 10 times from twice charged anywhere the going rate. As a benchmark, a typical and US$3. US$2 100km ride is between

SURVIVALCARGETTING & MOTORCYCLE AROUND GUIDE

VIETNAM 906 907 Hire small vehicles get out of the way of big vehi- The major considerations are safety, the cles. Even Hwy 1 is only a two-lane highway mechanical condition of the vehicle, the for most of its length and high-speed, head- reliability of the rental agency, and your on collisions are all too common. budget. In general, the major highways are hard surfaced and reasonably well maintained, Car & Minibus VIETNAM but seasonal fl ooding can be a problem. VIETNAM Renting a vehicle with a driver and guide is Non-paved road are best tackled with a a realistic option even for budget travellers, 4WD vehicle or motorbike. Mountain roads providing there are enough people to share are particularly dangerous: landslides, fall- the cost. ing rocks and runaway vehicles can add an GETTING AROUND SURVIVALGETTING GUIDE LOCAL TRANSPORT LOCAL Costs per day: unwelcome edge to your journey. Standard model US$40 to US$60 4WD/minibus US$80 to US$115 Local Transport These are bicycle rickshaws. Drivers Motorbike CYCLOS Motorbikes can be rented from virtually hang out in touristy areas and some speak anywhere, including cafes, hotels and travel broken English. Bargaining is imperative; agencies. Some places will ask to keep your settle on a fare before going anywhere. A passport as security. Ask for a signed agree- short ride costs about 10,000d, over 2km ment stating what you are renting, how much about 20,000d. it costs, the extent of compensation and so on. TAXIS Metered taxis are found in all cities It is compulsory to wear a helmet when and are very, very cheap by international riding a motorbike in Vietnam, even when standards and a safe way to travel around travelling as a passenger. at night. Average tariff s are about 10,000d Costs per day: to 15,000d per kilometre. Only travel with reputable or recommended companies, Mai Moped (semi-auto) US$4-6 Linh (www.mailinh.vn) is an excellent nation- Moped (fully auto) US$8-10 wide fi rm. Trail and road bikes From US$15-30 XE OM Motorbike taxis are everywhere. Fares are comparable with those for a cyclo. Driv- Plenty of local drivers will be willing to act ers hang around street corners, markets, as a chauff eur and guide for around US$10 hotels and bus stations. They will fi nd you to US$20 per day too. before you fi nd them… Insurance If you are travelling in a tourist vehicle with Tours a driver, then it is almost guaranteed to The following are Vietnam-based travel agen- be insured. When it comes to motorbikes, cies that off er tours throughout Vietnam: many rental bikes are not insured, and you Buffalo Tours (%04-3828 0702; www.buffalo will have to sign a contract agreeing to a tours.com; 94 P Ma May, Hanoi) valuation for the bike if it is stolen. Exotissimo (%08-3995 9898; www.exotissimo .com; 80-82 Ð Phan Xich Long, Phu Nhuan Road Conditions & Hazards District, HCMC) Road safety is defi nitely not one of Viet- Handspan Travel Indochina (Map p 814 ; %04- nam’s strong points. Vehicles drive on the 3926 2828; www.handspan.com; 78 P Ma May, right-hand side (in theory). Size matters and Hanoi)

TRAIN FARES FROM HANOI

TOP HARD AIR-CON BOTTOM SOFT AIR-CON DESTINATION SOFT SEAT AIR-CON (6 BERTH) (4 BERTH) Hue 508,000d 785,000d 833,000d Danang 570,000d 853,000d 915,000d Nha Trang 1,030,000d 1,340,000d 1,510,000d HCMC 1,175,000d 1,590,000d 1,690,000d Lao Cai 210,000d 310,000d 450,000d air

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system, operated by The railway Ocean Tours Ocean Sisters Tours www.oceantours.com.vn; 22 P Hang Bac, Hanoi) Bac, Hang P 22 www.oceantours.com.vn;

SURVIVALTRAINGETTING AROUND GUIDE

VIETNAM 908