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市政府新聞處 美國學校 Department of Information, Taipei City Government Taipei American School (02) 2728-7564 4F, No. 1, Shifu Rd., Taipei (02) 2873-9900 No. 800, Sec. 6, Zhongshan N. Rd., Taipei 中正國際航空站一 世貿中心外貿協會 Information Desk at Entry Lobby, Chiang Kai-shek International Airport Taiwan External Trade Development Council, TAITRA (03) 398-2965 Dayuan, Taoyuan County (02) 2725-1111 No. 5, Sec. 5, Xinyi Rd., Taipei 中正國際航空站二 台北當代藝術館 Tourist Service Center at Exit Lobby, Chiang Kai-shek International Airport Museum of Contemporary Art Taipei (03) 398-2015 Dayuan, Taoyuan County (02) 2552-3720 No. 39, Changan W. Rd., Taipei 美國在台協會 官邸藝文沙龍 American Institure in Taiwan Mayor’s Residence Arts Salon (02) 2709-2000 No.7, Lane 134, Sec. 3, Xinyi Rd., Taipei (02) 2396-9398 No. 46, Shiujou Rd., Taipei 遠企購物中心 國立故宮博物院 Taipei Metro the Mall National Palace Museum (02) 2378-6666#6580 NO. 203, Sec. 2, Dunhua S. Rd., Taipei (02) 28812021 No. 221, Sec. 2, Chihshan Rd., Taipei 國語日報語文中心 台北國際藝術村 Mandarin Daily News (Language Center) Taipei Artist Village (02) 2341-8821 No. 2, Fuzhou St., Taipei (02) 3393-7377 No. 7, Peiping E. Rd., Taipei 臺灣師大國語教學中心 二二八紀念館 National Taiwan Normal University (Mandarin Training Center) Taipei 228 Memorial Museum (02) 2391-4248#22 No.162, Sec. 1, Heping E. Rd., Taipei (02) 2389-7228 No. 3, Ketagalan Boulevard, Taipei 聖多福天主教堂 交通部觀光局旅遊服務中心 St. Christopher Catholic Church Travel Service Center, Tourism Bureau, M.O.T.C. (02) 2594-7914 No.51, Sec. 3, Zhongshan N. Rd., Taipei (02) 2717-3737 No. 240, Dunhua N . Rd., Taipei 士林區公所 紅樓 Shilin District Office Red Theatre (02) 2882-6200#8725 8F, No.439 Zhongzheng Rd., Taipei (02) 2311-9380 No. 10, Chengdu Rd., Taipei 臺北士林劍潭活動中心 紫藤廬 Shilin Jiantan Overseas Youth Activity Center Wistaria House (02) 2885-2151 No.16, Sec. 4, Zhongshan N. Rd., Taipei (02) 2363-7375 No. 1, Lane 16, Sec. 3, Shinsheng S. Rd., Taipei 捷運沿線各站 光點台北 All Stations of MRT Lines SPOT-Taipei Film House (02) 2778-2991 No. 18, Sec. 2, Zhongshan N. Rd., Taipei 台北市警察局各分局 Fourteen District Police Precinct 金牌健身事業 Gold’s Gym 南港軟體工業園區 (02)2325-8888 3F, No. 6, Sec. 4, Xinyi Rd., Taipei Nangang Software Park (02) 2655-3093#124 2F, No.19-10, Sanchong Rd., Taipei 亞典圖書公司 Art Land Book Co. Ltd. 誠品書店各分店 (02)2784-5166 No. 122, Sec. 3, Renai Rd., Taipei Eslite Bookstore 中正紀念堂 新學友書局 Chiang Kai-shek Memorial Hall Senseio Bookstore (02)2343-1119 No. 21, Zhongshan S. Rd., Taipei 伊是咖啡 金石堂圖書 Is Coffee Kingstone Bookstore EDITOR'S INTRODUCTION

Taipei to Again Be Bathed in the Color Red For the Festive Holiday Season

Taipei will nevertheless lend a hand in articles in this issue are just what you tackling your other seasonal-planning need. (p.4 and p.20) Getting a formal H oliday greetings! traditions while in this faraway land. English education at a prestigious local Visits to friends will no doubt university or pursuing recreational Whether your excitement matches appear repeatedly on your agenda learning according to your own mine because you are about schedule will surely bring just as to enter a time filled with joy much reward as all your hard toil at and smiling faces, or because your workplace over the next year! you get a few days off work, Taking strategic breaks from your here are some things-to-do busy schedule is the key to healthy suggestions for the upcoming living, so we launch you on the path holiday-filled period. For to learning tips on running in Taipei the couch-potato crowd, from selected organizations in Taipei inspiration to stir may come by on the Run and to self-discovery checking out the top movies as of nearby outdoor treasures in The selected by the Golden Horse Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns. committee, or checking to- visit places suggested by Latin Too much fast and too furious

representatives to activity demanded from you in Discover Taipei Taiwan in Latins, these articles, you say? Slow the Taiwanese Share pace by enjoying our photo essay 1 Passion for the Good by Daniel Mojahedi, where he takes Things in Life, where you back to Taipei’s developmental appreciation for a colonial stage via the city’s historical lively city bounded architecture. (p. 36) They say photos by mountains bursts speak louder than words, but we forth. find the best communication is when calendar during this photos and words sing together, as they Maybe you, like me, have reason season, when two big festivals come do here. Expanding from the story of to miss the fun of this festive season roaring in, Christmas and Chinese one urban location, we go global in as experienced in North America and New Year. For a quick primer on gift theme with Taipei Fine Arts Museum other points West - the Christmas purchasing, please check out On the Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty carols, mistletoe, food, and so much Hunt for the Perfect X’mas Souvenirs. Yoga. Yes, this year’s theme is indeed more. We serve up a special article Gift items range from jade to sweets. called “Dirty Yoga,” designed to bring this issue on restaurants famous for For last-minute gift shoppers, a word of aerobic exercise for all minds ready for Peking duck. So why spend time advice from yours truly: go to page 30. globalization. preparing or going out in search of Christmas turkey? After all, duck is a So, have you decided yet where Slow down, read on, and for your great European Christmas tradition. to go for this year’s New Year’s own good do not fast forward. And after studying about ducks, why countdown? Your new New Year’s not get quacking on our helpful piece resolutions will no doubt be a recurring Hope you enjoy reading this issue on table etiquette on page 56, which subject during holiday discourses. Have of DTB. If you have any suggestions, will prevent embarrassment at the you pledged yourself to continuing your don’t hesitate to email or fax us. dining table? If poultry is not on your studies or picking up a new hobby? Email: to-savor list for the festive season, Language barriers can be daunting if [email protected] our article on Christmas traditions in doing so in Taipei, so Jerri Graham’s Fax: (02) 2720-5909 Discover Taipei Bimonthly Issue No.56 / November 2006 Discover Taipei 2006 Taipei City Government. All rights reserved. Reproduction in any form without written permission is prohibited. Views expressed in the articles do not reflect opinions of the Taipei City Government.

Publisher Lo Chih-cheng

Division Chief Jiang Chuen-huey

Managing Editor Joanna Kuo

Editors Kymberly Cheng Discover Taipei John Jia-ren Lee 2 Consultants Amanda Dowsley Jerome F. Keating Cover Story: Comfortable learning environment delivers even better results to student performance. Photographer (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Wang Neng-yu Cover Story Art Director Getting Educated by Getting It Yu Ming-Lung Design Co. in Taipei (02)2703-6816 By Jerri C. Graham ...... 4 Printer Choice Company Special Report (02)8768-2088 Peking Duck: All Its Quacked Department of Information Up to Be! Taipei City Government By Brian Asmus ...... 10 4F, No.1, Shifu Rd, Taipei, Taiwan, R.O.C Tel: (02)2720-8889#2028 Living in Taipei Fax: (02)2720-5909 Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion ISSN: 17281741 for the Good Things in Life ...... GPN: 2009005414 By Brian Asmus 15

Cover Photo: Taken in the afternoon of autumn at the National Taipei University of Education on Heping E. Rd. (和平東路). (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Discover Taipei

Living in Taipie: Colorful and prestigious stones can be purchased at the Jade Market every weekend. (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee) Discover Taipei Outdoor Activities 3 The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns By Sean Scanlan ...... 41

Culture/Art Taipei Fine Arts Museum Opens Calling On the Creativity Muse in Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga Taipei By Sean Scanlan ...... 46 By Jerri C. Graham ...... 20 The Golden Horse Film Festival Celebrating Christmas in Taipei By Sean Scanlan ...... 51 By Daniel Mojahedi ...... 25

On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas F o o d Souvenirs Table Etiquette Taipei-style – the Text by Monideepa Banerjee ...... 30 ultimate guide for the dinner guest By Mark Caltonhill ...... 56 Photo Essay S p o r t Looking Back: A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings Taipei on the Run ...... 60 By Daniel Mojahedi ...... 36 By Monideepa Banerjee Cover STORY Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei Discover Taipei

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A glimpse of international student life on campus in Taipei. (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee)

uman beings are born with Whatever the case, education is an A Bachelor's Degree a natural curiosity. From the ongoing journey that never ends. While Delivered in English H moment we take our first some people tend to see their time in in Taiwan? breath, we are sponges for information Taipei as a respite from the world of The United Nations has nothing and knowledge. This thirst can be formal education, others see their stay on David Hedlund’s Introduction to fulfilled in perfecting our fluency in here as a prime opportunity to fill up the Sociology. This first-year course at Ming French or coming to terms with a old grey matter. Chuan University’s International College decades-long battle with fractions. is just the beginning of the life-enriching Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei Cover STORY Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei By Jerri C. Graham

the instructor looks out at the students in entirely in English. The undergraduate before him. From all corners of the globe, majors include International Business, their skin shades varying from the fairest Information Communication, of fair to the richest beautiful dark, they Information Management, Tourism, have come together to get an education Electronic Engineering, and Digital in English in Taiwan. Like beauty Media Design. The graduate programs contestants, the students in Sociology are International Affairs, Management, 101 represent practically every continent and Applied English. The International in the world save Antarctica – there’s College may not be an option for the Gambia, St. Vincent, Malawi, Germany, working adult, but it is a possibility for Nicaragua, Indonesia, and Iraq, just to high-school students just completing their name a few. studies here in English. In order to gain Within twenty minutes of the start admittance into the program, students of class, Hedlund has divided the little must possess either a high school, groups that had naturally formed. The college, or university degree as well as newly formed ones are made up of have sufficient English ability (TOEFL an even mix of locals and foreigners, 500 or IELTS 5.5). International students women and men. Over the course of the that qualify may also receive a 50% semester, each new team will become tuition waiver. After sitting in on David members’ window into worlds they'd Hedlund's Sociology 101, I actually had Discover Taipei only seen on TV. “My goal is to open this crazy desire to be a young student their minds and help them question again. 5 who they are and what is their position Ming Chuan isn't the only university in life,” says Hedlund. Looking at the in Taiwan paving the way for students mix of students in this class, it is hard to from abroad. National Chengchi imagine anyone leaving it without being University (國立政治大學) in Muzha is transformed. another institution following this track. Tivamile B. Dlamini, or Tiv as Focusing on humanities and social most of her classmates know her, is a classic example of the IC program at its best. In her fourth year as a Mass Communications major, she serves as one of the school’s international ambassadors, speaking to potential students about the benefits of studying at MCU. Speaking with her and some of her classmates, her enthusiasm for what she has received by being a part of the International College is infectious. As the daughter of a former diplomat education the students in this class will from the Kingdom of Swaziland, this receive over the next four years. The first poised young woman exudes confidence to offer undergraduate degrees delivered and sees her time at Ming Chuan as completely in English, Taipei’s Ming preparation for her calling into service Chuan University is part of the new for her country. revolution in education here in Taiwan. Ming Chuan offers eight undergraduate- Back in David Hedlund's classroom degree programs, five Master's programs, Learning is a life-time process; the choices of at the Taoyuan campus of the university, and a PhD program that are delivered studies are endless. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Cover STORY Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei

sciences, the International Undergraduate English instruction for 5 percent of their Program (IUP) is a premier 4-year classes. Because learning Chinese is program. with a growing reputation. In part of the curriculum for international addition, the university has partnered students, students studying at NTU will with over 100 foreign universities in a not only walk away with a degree, but sister school program, opening up the will also have a very strong working opportunity for exchange programs. knowledge of Chinese. NCCU also offers several International Though NTU offers several Master's Programs that provide a stellar Bachelor’s programs, it is the university’s education at local prices. Admission to highly regarded College of Management

Students in Hedlund’s class pay attention to the lecture on global cultures. (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) Discover Taipei

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Sociology 101: learn to respect cultures from all corners of the globe. (Photo by Jerri C. Graham)

the program is rather straightforward. Applicants holding a Bachelor's from a university outside of Taiwan must submit a statement of purpose, proof of English proficiency, and also take part in an interview or oral exam.

Taking it a Step Further – Getting an MBA A large majority of high school students in Taiwan have one goal – to get into National Taiwan University (NTU- 國立臺灣大學). As the number one institution of higher education on the island, it has garnered a positive reputation that reaches far past our shores. NTU is also one of the universities at the forefront of international education. For years they’ve accepted degree-seeking Academic opportunities in Taipei are reputable for their first-rated education as well as international students from abroad despite only having standard. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei Cover STORY

that has most recently stepped into the education, universities gain a reputation in on a daily basis. Universities such as limelight. The school established its for being international, and Taiwan Boston University and Northeastern in Executive MBA program back in 1997. has an opportunity to show the world the States and the University of London In 2004, it went one step further and set its strength as a multifaceted nation. among others in the UK, all offer degree up its English MBA program. This import of students also allows programs starting at Associated degrees For the most part, the average cost the exchange of ideas that can only be up to MBAs delivered entirely via of an MBA is more than what most achieved on a face-to-face basis. distance. Students are still required to sit people in the US or UK earn in a year. At one time people questioned the for proctored exams. These arrangements The English MBA program at NTU is value of studying in Taiwan, equating it can be made through the consulate office currently NT$53,470 (US$1,628 / British with the “made in Taiwan” stigma that or acting embassy. Rules vary from Pound 867) per semester, with a total of was once attached to anything from this institution to institution. four semesters needed to complete the island. As steps into the arena of being After receiving her Bachelor's in program. more of economic and educational History, Kecia Jenkins took off from In addition to NTU, many of the powerhouse, the question now is why not ? Wisconsin to discover the world and other universities in found herself in Taiwan sometime later. Taiwan also offer English Always one to try something new or MBA programs. These different, Jenkins has been involved in programs and others like learning in one shape or form for years. them are beneficial across In her time in Taipei, she's studied music the board. Students from and Chinese, and now she's getting a overseas get a first-rate degree through the California University of Pennsylvania. The decision to study for another degree, this time in Sports Management, wasn't one she entered into

lightly. Jenkins knew that the time and Discover Taipei effort to complete it would be another ball to juggle, but she also knew it was 7 now or never. A major factor in going With the Wifi availability across the city, Kecia Jenkins finds studying in a park quite pleasurable. back to school at this time in her life is (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) financial. "Nowhere else in the world can I afford to work just a few hours a day With tuition that is a fraction of that of and have the time to study," she states. universities in the West, professors with Distance education isn't, as many knowledge, training, and experience erroneously believe, the “easy option.” It from around the world, and the support takes a determined individual to succeed. of the international community, getting There are no set times to attend class, an education in Taiwan is an option no professors hounding you, no students worth exploring. to sit next to in a lecture hall. Distance education is for the hardworking Distance Makes the independent learner who doesn’t need Mind Grow Smarter – hand-holding to get where they want Distanced Education to go in life. Floyd Ehman Newsum, Distance education has been around a Blakemore Fellow for the Advanced since the 19th century, yet only now Study of Asian Languages studying with the advent of online education is at NTU is one such individual. With a it receiving the proper attention that it background in manufacturing and the deserves. For anyone with the desire to knowledge that “China is the workshop continue their education it is now easier of the world,” he is learning the language than ever before. From self-development while also completing his MBA through courses to quantum physics through MIT, the Kelley School at the University of learning through a distance program is a Indiana. When asked how he manages viable option that millions are engaging to do both, he simply replies, “Time Cover STORY Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei

is the only thing you have and it is the schools, and eager language-exchange progress is better than nothing at all. most valuable commodity in the world. partners out there, my excuses are The Taipei Eurocentre, a language Knowing how to manage it is essential to sounding lamer and lamer with each school initially set up for Chinese succeeding.” passing day. students wanting to study European Distance and online education is One way of getting a grip on the languages, is another option. While driven by market demand. Through this language is through a full-time program offering Chinese classes for foreigners, format, more and more working adults offered at a local university. Most are the Eurocentre also offers classes in are acquiring the knowledge that will intensive and focus on giving students German, French, Spanish, and Russian. propel them further in their career or give a well-rounded education in the basics The courses are open to anyone with a them greater longevity in the workplace. of the language. Instead of focusing just desire to learn a foreign tongue. In the West and in most other societies, on conversation skills, students walk the line between distance and on-campus away with the ability to write and read An Education Like education is becoming increasingly Chinese. The 10-hour-a-week programs No Other – Studying blurred. Diplomas don’t specify how the at Shi Da (師大; Taiwan Normal Traditional Chinese degree was obtained because ultimately it University) and NTU are at the top of Medicine doesn’t matter. In one report, it was even the list for the serious learner. Tuition is Jim Lehman is a student of life. noted that employers looked favorably extremely affordable and class sizes are Constantly on the lookout for a new upon employees that went back to school small. These programs are ideal for those opportunity, Lehman moved to Taiwan through a distance program. They view wanting to get a firm grasp of Chinese. to continue his study of martial arts. these employees as people with the Chris Neumeyer and I used to occupy “Learning about them in the States is like determination and drive that will benefit the same language boat. Neumeyer playing the telephone game,” he opines. their company as a whole. jumped ship when he one day realized he “There are so many people passing down had to make the effort to learn Chinese. the message that after a while, what Learning Chinese At The odds were against him, but he wasn't was originally said becomes completely

Discover Taipei Whatever Speed You deterred. Working full-time, helping to distorted. Studying in Taiwan gets me Need care for his two-year-old daughter, and closer to the source.” 8 I’m ashamed to admit it, but I’m still managing to find time to study is a For the past year, the source of functionally illiterate in Chinese. For juggling act that few can manage, but Lehman’s continuing and ever-changing those of you who share in my plight, Neumeyer does. Once a week he studies education has been Marcus Brinkman. “wo bu dong” (我不懂) means “I don't in a classroom setting, and then studies Brinkman, who has been a practitioner understand.” After nearly seven years on his own when spare time allows. of traditional Chinese medicine (TCM) here, my Chinese has progressed very Realizing that studying full-time isn't for over twenty years, is one of the few little. Time, work, family, and other a possibility for the working adult, and knowledgeable educators available to outside obligations have played a part targeting those not wanting intensive help those wanting to learn about these in my not studying the language-or so I programs, more and more Chinese- ancient methods in English. Back in the say to comfort myself. In actuality, there language learning centers are popping up. late 1970s, Brinkman attended the first are no excuses for not studying Chinese Their offerings are not as intensive as an TCM medical school in Boston. Since and coming to terms with the language. immersion program, but for Neumeyer those early days he’s concentrated his With all of the language programs, cram and others like him, slow and steady efforts on helping people change their

Class sizes are small at Shi Da language center. With first-rated education and international recognition, most of the school facilities in Taipei are “state of (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee) the art.” (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Getting Educated by Getting It in Taipei Cover STORY

Lehman(rear), a student who learns traditional Chinese medicine from Brinkman(front), finds his way in Taipei. (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) Discover Taipei philosophy of treating illness from one of sort of cultural education is another 9 treatment to one of longevity. component to learning in Taipei that Resources for Brinkman has the desire to help anyone can grab a hold of. It’s there Learning about others study the concepts that he calls for the taking and just requires a bit of Learning the “science of internal cultivation.” stretching. Much of this knowledge is widely ‧To find out which undergraduate, accessible to the Chinese-speaking and A Call to Pens Master’s, and Doctoral programs -reading community, but is completely The above is by no means an are currently taught in English, closed off to those who only speak and a complete list of schools and exhaustive account of the possibilities. programs can be found at www. read English. “Taiwan has a lot to offer Cataloging them all would require studyintaiwan.org. in terms of learning about TCM,” he reams of paper and weeks of reading. ‧ says, “but it is hidden in the fabric of Discerning what is best for your own Ming Chuan University International College: www. the culture.” For the foreigner with a style of learning is where the true work m c u . e d u . t w ; S u s a n H u ; desire to learn about TCM there aren't takes place. The one thing that all 886-3-359-3883 many, if any, options available. “In students, traditional or not, should keep ‧National Taiwan University English China these things are already set up to in mind is that each and every day in this MBA Program: Wei-ning Tung; teach Westerners, but very little in the city brings opportunity to learn. Whether 886-2-2366-0950, ext. 57 way of teaching foreigners about these it’s the education of day-to-day life or ‧For a list of Chinese-learning centuries-old practices has been set up some “book learning” that can result in programs through the university here.” Brinkman is a bridge of sorts, a degree, it all boils down to opening system, check www.english. taking the knowledge that he’s spent yourself up to the possibilities. Time moe.gov.tw. is a commodity, and using it to get an years acquiring and breaking it down ‧Taipei Eurocentre; 10F, 278 into manageable elements that practically education is one of the best investments Nanjing East Road(南京東路), anyone can understand. one can ever make. Sec. 3; 886-2-2751-7087 Marcus Brinkman is translating ‧Marcus Brinkman (Traditional a vital part of the culture of Asia and Chinese Medicine); 0932181367 offering it to those eager to learn. This Special REPORT Peking Duck: All Its Quacked Up to Be!

Discover Taipei PekingPeking Duck:Duck: 10 AllAll ItsIts QuackedQuacked UpUp toto Be!Be! By Brian Asmus Peking Duck: All Its Quacked Up to Be! Special REPORT

rguably, one of the finest Ducks of the Right In Hot Water accomplishments of Kind of Feather China's nearly 3,000-year To prepare the duck, says Liu, it is A Like the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel, first cleaned of feathers and then boiled. history is Peking duck. Highly prized among both Chinese and foreign diners Jorden Yang(楊德興), chef de cuisine Hot air is blown inside, and the duck is alike, the crispy skin and juicy meat at the Yi Yuan restaurant, also reports rubbed with sugar water and left to hang are tantalizingly tempting. Discover that the Westin Taipei buys its ducks for 12 hours to dry. “Natural drying is Taipei checks into what is available from the east-coast area as well, in this preferred; we do not use fans because it around town, revealing the ins and outs case Ilan County. “We cooperate with will dry too fast and that is not good for of roasting the perfect Peking duck. one farm in Ilan(宜蘭) to better control the skin,” he says. Usually, three dishes are prepared quality, quantity, and weight. Most other The Westin, however, sees no from one duck: crispy skin, duck meat farms cannot meet our standards.” problem with artificial drying, according (occasionally some is also stir-fried in a “While most restaurants buy ducks to Yang. “The skin must be separated separate dish), and soup made from the that are 90 days,” says Eddie Liu(劉冠 from the meat through blowing. After bones. 麟), assistant food and beverage director that, we let the duck hang with a fan Peking duck has been served on at the Far Eastern blowing on it for Chinese tables since the Yuan Dynasty Plaza Hotel, about eight hours or for nearly 800 years. Established in “ours are 60-days in the winter, 1864, the Quanjude(全聚德) Restaurant old. We prefer six hours in the in Beijing is famous for its Peking duck. these smaller summer. If you let Its importance in the Chinese culinary ducks because it go too long in the world is reflected in the saying: “You the meat is more summer when the have not been to China until you have tender. Ducks temperatures are climbed the Great Wall and tasted used by the higher, the duck can develop gamy, Peking duck at Quanjude.” famed Quanjude Discover Taipei It was precisely because of its Restaurant, on liver-like flavors.” fame that Taipei’s Far Eastern Plaza which we have To achieve 11 Hotel (FEPH) decided to partner modeled our own crispier skin, with Quanjude on a special culinary duck variety, nothing is stuffed exchange, creating a “win-win scenario are 45-days old into the cavity of for everyone,” says General Manager and weigh 2,000 Duck can be eaten with either scallion or cumber, but the duck. “This is never together. (Photo courtesy of the Westin Hotel) Wolfgang Krueger. “It is an opportunity grams.” very different from for Quanjude Restaurant to showcase L i u f i n d s Western-style duck its excellent creations and for us to that, in Taiwan, 45-day-old ducks are recipes,” says Liu, “where spices, herbs, offer our guests the unique opportunity simply not big enough—an important and other ingredients might be stuffed to savor the exquisite quality of those factor influencing fat content. “You need inside.” Another reason is because with creations.” a certain amount of fat to give the meat traditional Peking duck, the meat and To achieve the most authentic flavor and keep it juicy during cooking.” bones are also used to make soup. “If flavors possible, the hotel held a number The discrepancy in size can be you have all of these other ingredients of duck-selection sessions. Finally, the accounted for by the fact that Beijing inside, it changes and masks the original best duck—from a farm in Hualien(花 ducks are force-fed, while in Taiwan flavors.” 蓮) County (eastern Taiwan)—was they roam free. “Taiwanese ducks get “We use an anise-type herb to rub determined to have met the highest more exercise since they can swim and the inside of the duck before cooking. standards and worthy of Quanjude. walk around, and this gives the meat It gives the meat a more complex Those qualities include a pleasing, full- a better, less flabby texture,” says Liu. flavoring,” says Yang. The Westin, like bodied appearance, crisp skin and tender Traditionally, however, it is precisely the FEPH, also rubs the outside of the meat, and fresh, delicious flavors. that kind of fatty duck that has been duck with sugar water to get a nice, crisp most preferred in Beijing. skin. Special REPORT Peking Duck:Duck All Its Quacked Up to Be! ipei

One method of drying: just let them air dry after rubbing with sugar water. (Photo by udndata) Taiwan-made ovens can be seen at restaurants ranging from hotels to smaller restaurants. (Photo by udndata) Light My Fire oven. Gas is best in controlling the heat. Quanjude’s preference for German- DiscoverDiscover TaTaipei We then leave the duck in the oven made ovens, he prefers Taiwanese makes After all these preparations, the duck another 10 minutes to continue cooking. because the cooking temperatures inside 12 is ready for cooking. “We put it in the This is different from the approach of German units are too high. One special oven for 45 to 50 minutes,” says Liu. “It most Western chefs, who depend on challenge is from customers who like to really depends on customer preference for standardization to a far greater extent. It have charcoal used in the oven. “It gives crispiness.” Ultimately, is determined in advance the meat a special flavor,” says Yang, “but he adds, culinary skill is exactly how much of makes controlling the temperature very determined by how well each ingredient to use and difficult; it is a real challenge.” the chef cooks the duck. how long exactly to cook There are differences in how thickly “You need to reduce the it.” the meat is sliced in Taiwan and China. fat under the skin to a The Far Eastern also The reason is that Taiwanese prefer minimum, while keeping had one of Quanjude’s thicker slices. “In China, while they the meat juicy. Too little patented German-made, probably would prefer thicker slices as cooking and the duck stainless-steel electric well,” says Yang, “the high poverty rates is too fatty and greasy; ovens flown from have meant that the meat is sliced thinner too much and the meat Beijing to Taipei, It is so that everyone gets some; diners fill becomes tough. It is a capable of maintaining up more on the pancakes. Incredibly, in real art.” an interior temperature of Beijing’s Quanjude, a master chef should This time Yang is in Cutting duck to perfection: exactly 150℃ to 270℃, with the cut exactly 108 pieces from one duck-- 100-percent agreement. 108 pieces from one duck! (Photo capacity to roast 12 to 15 that is perfection!” “It is very important courtesy of the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel) ducks for 50 minutes to to cook duck the right the standard of Quanjude length of time at the right Scallion or Peking ducks. Cucumber? temperature. Like most Chinese chefs, Yang has also studied at Quanjude in I go by my own personal experience. I Beijing. “I go every year for consulting While Peking duck is traditionally look at the color and then turn off the and training.” While he acknowledges eaten with a piece of scallion and some Peking Duck: All Its Quacked Up to Be! Special REPORT

sauce, some restaurants have opted for reason for this. It is just that no one to my cucumber since it is more delicate and knowledge is growing wheat in northern suits duck flavors better. “Scallion,” says Taiwan.” That said, he reports that Yi Yuan Liu, “especially large ones, can be quite buys a special grade of all-purpose flour. overpowering. Cucumber calms things “The consistency is very important.” down, cooling and rounding out the Some restaurants prefer to use flavors.” He attributes this preference to black-bean rather than plum sauce. the fact that northern Chinese like strong Surprisingly, black bean is the more tastes like garlic and scallions. “That is traditional variety. “The latter is actually the culture. That is how they have grown Cantonese, not Pekingese,” says Liu. up and what they are used to.” “One good thing about plum sauce, If diners are going to opt for scallions, though, is that if the duck is too oily (as Liu has this advice: “The smaller the ducks prepared in southern China tend to Ingredients needed for a Pecking duck feast: sliced scallion, the better the flavor. The duck meat, pancakes, and scallion or cucumber be), then the acid of the plum helps break big ones are too harsh. The earthy, pieces. (Photo courtesy of the Far Eastern Plaza this down.” slightly pungent taste of the smaller- Hotel) Yang’s preference is for greater sized scallions is much preferable to sophistication. “Our sauce is more the woody, overly hot, slightly bitter complex than at most restaurants. The essences of the large ones.” sauce we use is made of 20 different “Our scallions are from Ilan,” says kinds of herbs and spices, with black Yang. “We prefer them because they bean being the primary ingredient. I think have a lighter, less coarse flavor. They that we have the best sauce in town. One are the mildest. The ones from southern of the other key ingredients is tangerine

Taiwan are harsher because the climate peel. In the West many chefs like to cook Discover Taipei and soil are less suitable. Also, scallions duckling with orange sauce, and the two 13 have a different flavor depending on flavors go together very nicely.” Yang(楊 the season; winter has the strongest. We 天麟), however, finds most sauces also use cucumbers since most people, around town are “just salty and sweet” especially children, do not like scallions.” and, therefore, “a bit one-dimensional.” For the soup, Yang Tian-lan, manager Black-bean and plum sauce are the two traditional Pancakes, Sauce, sauces, although some places create their secret of Taoranting Beijing restaurant, likes to sauce for greater sophistication. (Photo courtesy use the bones along with pickled mustard and Soup of the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel) greens and “lots of ginger.” According to Then there are the pancakes. “You Yang, ginger aids the digestion-important cannot use too much water or they get again because of excess fat and oil. too doughy,” says Liu. “Meanwhile, if you use too much flour, the pancakes end Pairing Wine and up too thick and starchy.” Yang agrees. “With pancakes, we have to be careful Peking Duck to achieve a nice balance of flour and The fatty duck and salty sauce water to achieve a nice doughy texture. can present a challenge in selection of Cooking it to just the right temperature Western wine. It is for this reason that makes the outside slightly crisp with Liu likes drinking cognac with duck. “If a nice chewy inside. (Think baguette). you are going to have wine with duck, Also, if you overcook the pancakes they you might want to go for a nice full- will lose that nice doughy smell.” bodied Chardonnay with a strong alcohol For some restaurants, flour comes content. This stands up to the fat, while from southern Taiwan. “That is where the Wrapping in a slightly crisp yet chewy pancake leaving nice fruit flavors behind. Weaker grain used is grown. There is no special makes the duck closer to perfection. (Photo wines will turn to water in the mouth. courtesy of the Far Eastern Plaza Hotel) Special REPORT Peking Duck: All Its Quacked Up to Be!

ingredients. Whatever your preference, I Restaurants would suggest aiming for a wine with a distinct hit of alcohol, as these will stand Beijing Lo (北京樓) Roosevelt Rd. Sec. 3 #157 up to all the flavors of the dish. Forget (臺北市羅斯福路三段157號) Tel: 2368-0058 Pinot Gris or Viognier.” Beiping Shang Yuan (北平上園樓) At the Westin, Yang recommends Linsen S. Rd. .#4 (臺北市林森南路4號) Tel: 2393-3331 red wine, especially Merlots or Cabernet Tel: 2397-1459 Sauvignons from South America or a Beiping Tong Qing Lou (北平同慶樓) Dunhua S. Rd. Sec. 2 #168 Shiraz from Australia. “These wines are (臺北市敦化南路二段168號) Tel: 2739-6611 fruitier and more full-bodied. Duck is Beiping Xilaixun (北平西來順) quite fatty so you need a wine that can Dunhua S. Rd. Sec. 2 #261 branch (臺北市敦化南路二段261號) stand up to that without overpowering or Tel: 2735-7301 Jinshan S. Rd. Sec. 2 #5 branch being overpowered by it.” (臺北市金山南路二段5號) Tel: 2391-9904 Celestial Kitchen (天廚) Restaurants in the Nanjing W. Rd. #1 3F (臺北市南京西路1號3樓) Tel: 2563-2380 Taipei Area Serving Fu Ji Ya Zhuang (福記鴨莊) New wines are constantly being selected to Zhonghe City Yuantong Rd. #208 Peking Duck (中和市員通路208號) complement duck dishes. (Photo by udndata) Tel: 2247-6666 Regrettably, many of the former Shang Palace Restaurant (香格里拉) Far Eastern Plaza Hotel(遠東國際大飯店) restaurant owners and chefs who fled to Dunhua S. Rd. Sec. 2 #201 6F Nice fruity reds like Chianti and Shiraz (臺北市敦化南路二段201號) Taiwan after the Communist takeover Tel: 2378-8888 ext: 5888 are another option, but I still prefer of China in 1949 are now retiring Song Kitchen (宋廚) Zhongxiao E. Rd. Sec. 5 Lane 15 #14 1F cognac.” and taking with them their flair for (臺北市忠孝東路五段15巷14號) Discover Taipei With cognac, says Liu, diners get authentic Pekingese cuisine. Many island Tel: 2764-4788 or 2746-8408 Beiping Taoranting (北平陶然亭) nice smoky, woody, almost bourbon-like restaurants, therefore, that specialize in Fuxing N. Rd. #86 2F 14 flavors. “The fat in the duck transforms (臺北市復興北路86號2樓) Peking duck have developed Taiwanese Tel: 2778-7805 the brandy, leaving flavors that hint at characteristics. “The problem with Wei Fu Lo (為福樓) Zhongxiao branch(忠孝店) cooked fruit.” Think cherry pie, cooked many Peking restaurants in Taiwan,” Zhongxiao E. Rd. Sec. 5 #996 branch berries, or even a hint of the burnt-orange (臺北市忠孝東路五段996號) says Yang, “is that the cook is not very Tel: 2788-8686 tastes that you would get from Grand knowledgeable or well-trained, so while Neihu branch (內湖店) Chenggong Rd. Sec. 3 Lane 184 #29 Marnier, which might be another good the restaurant still sells Peking duck, the (臺北市成功路三段174巷29號) pairing. Tel: 2792-5672 tastes and textures are not as authentic.” Xin Yi branch (信義店) “My own preference,” says Mary He recommends Song Kitchen, Taoranting, Xinyi Rd. Sec. 4 Lane 199 #4 (臺北市信義路四段199巷4號) Nicholls, a noted food and wine guru, and Celestial Kitchen. Regardless, diners Tel: 2708-4242 “would be to go for a Chilean or South who are less fussy will find plenty of Xi Lai Xun (西來順) Minsheng E. Rd. Sec. 3 Lane 55 #14 African Chardonnay, which in the places in Taipei to satisfy their urge (臺北市民生東路四段55巷14號) main is not as intense and buttery as Tel: 2713-6577 for Peking duck. See right, and happy Yitiao Lung (一條龍) the Australians, and with their usually feasting! Emei St. #12(峨嵋街12號) higher levels of acidity would lift the Tel: 2361-6166 Yiyuan Restaurant (頤園) initial flatness of the wrapping pancake, Westin Hotel (六福皇宮) Nanjing E. Rd. Sec. 3 #133 B2 cut through the fat, and make the most (臺北市南京東路三段133號) of the plum sauce. Of course, another Tel: 8770-6565 Yue Bin Lou (月賓樓) match for the red drinker would be a Shilin (士林) Baoan St. Sec. 1 #340 fairly lightweight, young Pinot Noir from (臺北市保安街一段340號) North Island New Zealand’s wonderful Tel: 2682-4972 Zhen Beiping (真北平) Martinborough region. Even at their Ningbo E. St. #1(臺北市寧波東街1號) most fruit-driven, these Pinots display an Tel: 2396-9611 Zheng Hao Wei (真好味) earthiness well suited to duck, and with Muxin Rd. Sec. 3 #108(木新路三段108號) quite high acidity should suit the other Tel: 2936-2535 Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life LIVING IN TAIPEI Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life By Brian Asmus s part of an ongoing effort to introduce ambassadors and A trade-office directors posted to Taiwan, in this issue Discover Taipei talks to the Belgian, Catalan, French, Discover Taipei Italian, and Spanish representatives 15 to get their take on what makes Taipei tick as well as recommendations about where to visit in their own countries and regions.

Belgium: Changing of the Guard A relative newcomer to Taipei, Benoit Ryelandt, director of the Belgian Office, had been in Taipei a short four weeks when interviewed. He replaces long-time representative Hugues Mignot, who served more than 20 years before retiring. Ryelandt hails from Brussels, the capital, but his family is originally from Bruges—a city whose beauty has long made it popular with tourists. “I did not have much information about Taiwan before I came,” says Ryelandt, “but that is an advantage since I have fewer misconceptions or preconceived notions. I can discover the city and its people by myself.” His LIVING IN TAIPEI Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life

Mr. Benoit Ryelandt, director of the Belgium office Belgium city, Bruges, is one of the many places The National Palace Museum in Taipei. in Taipei. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) that delivers relaxed country living and beautiful (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) landscapes. (Photo by Ginger Wu)

four years in Japan and four years as very peculiar to Taipei; within a short Austria and Spain as well during their ambassador in Vietnam, however, have drive, you can literally be up and away periods of imperial rule. “We also blend prepared him well for life in Taiwan. from the downtown concentration and the German northern cultures with the Ryelandt is happy to report that into the mountains.” southern Latin ones.” the people of Taipei are “very warm, For those planning a trip to Belgium, gentle, easygoing and open-minded.” Ryelandt recommends Brussels, Bruges, French Flair While the language remains a barrier for Ghent, and Antwerp, followed by the him, he feels “quite at home” given the Ardennes for relaxed country living, Jean-Claude Poimboeuf, director of city and country’s “human dimension, beautiful landscapes, and ancient castles. the French Institute in Taipei, has been Discover Taipei especially when compared with gigantic ''Many families in this mountainous in Taipei just over one year. “I arrived China,” and this makes Ryelandt feel region still make their living from last September,” says Poimboeuf, who 16 “much more at home.” Like Belgium, farming,'' says Ryelandt. had been in Taipei previously--but that he observes, most businesses in Taiwan Belgians, Ryelandt stresses, have a was 26 years ago when he was studying tend to be small and medium-sized very unique identity. “We are not just Chinese at Taiwan National Normal family-run operations. “I also have the Walloon and Flemish, though these are University (Shi Da;臺灣師大國語教學中 impression that Taiwanese people put the two official languages. We are a 心). great importance on lifestyle. They enjoy mixture of many cultures and always When he arrived last year, he noticed good food and leisure, especially family have been, and this gives us French- immediately that there had been quite a time.” speaking and Dutch-speaking Belgians a change physically. “There is a lot more While looking for a suitable location distinct character that makes us different modern infrastructure like the mass- to live, Ryelandt could not help but from our counterparts in France or the rapid-transit system, elevated freeways, notice how close the mountains and Netherlands.” Belgium, he continues, and tall buildings. It is also a lot cleaner accompanying greenery are. “This is picked up a lot of other influences from than before. Not only is the air quality

Check out how the mountains and buildings meld Mr. Jean-Claude Poimboeuf, director of the French together on the observation deck on the 89th Institute in Taipei. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) French country side. (Photo by Ginny Li) floor of the Taipei 101. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life LIVING IN TAIPEI

much better but there is also a lot less quality of life here.” Maria Assunta Accili, director of the trash on the streets and sidewalks.” Obviously, observes Poimboeuf, the Italian Trade Office in Taipei. “I did not The people, however, have not two societies are different. “The family have any impressions before I arrived. changed that much, he observes. “They structure in Taiwan is much stronger. Perhaps, I thought it would look similar are just as warm and welcoming as they People here are much more involved to other cities in Asia.” Accili, who has were 26 years ago. What has struck me is in taking care of their older family been in Taipei for three years, thinks that that they are much freer. There are a lot members. They may still have their Taipei is a “great city,” not because of the of cultural events, which simply did not grandparents living in the same house. architecture, but because of the “human exist before, partially because of martial That is very rare today in France.” environment.” The most important asset, law (which ended in 1987). People seem The French director and his wife are she adds, is the people. “They are very much more relaxed and open. There is big fans of the many and varied cultural warm, friendly, and make you feel at also a degree of sophistication. That is events in Taipei. “I often buy tickets to home right away. It is very easy to adjust new. There is also to life here because a lot more attention of that.” being paid to design Italians and and beauty.” Taiwanese, says the For French stay- Italian director, share ing a week or so, and the same love of food assuming the weather and getting together is nice, Poimboeuf with families and suggests going to the friends to eat. “Food observation deck on is central to the lives the 89th floor of the of both groups. It Taipei 101 tower to is not something

get an overview of that we do because Discover Taipei the city and how it is we have to eat for laid out. “It is quite sustenance; we eat 17 interesting to see for the enjoyment how the buildings of fine food and and mountains meld spending time with together. Sometimes, friends.” it is easy to forget Taipei is close to the beautiful mountains that surround it. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) In Accili’s free just how close Taipei time, she very is to the beautiful much enjoys taking mountains that surround it.” performances around town. There is advantage of Taipei’s wonderful cultural Second, the French director tells them a wide choice of high-quality events. life. “I love going to the wide range of to go to the National Palace Museum, Afterward, I like to go with my wife to a both foreign and local performances which will be “even better when the restaurant for Chinese snacks or Izikaya- as well as out to restaurants, especially renovation is completed next year.” style Japanese food. DOZO on Guangfu traditional Taiwanese ones. One of my Third, he advises hiking in the high hills S. Rd.(光復南路) is one of my favorite favorites, which is on Yangmingshan, is of Yangmingshan National Park on the places. It is very relaxed and it is fun to Shi Yang Shan Fang (食養山房). Accili city’s north, which is “especially pleasant have something to eat along with a few raves about the “beautiful place,” which when the city is hot.” glasses of beer.” is owned by a friend of hers, Mr. Lin. Taiwanese and French, says “He is an intellectual and calligrapher. Poimboeuf, are very similar in that “they Italy: Cultural He designed the restaurant in a very both enjoy good living and good food.” appealing way, and has a focus on East The only difference in this area is that Powerhouse, Asian fusion cuisine. Sometimes, when Taiwanese have less time for this than Close-knit I am there, I get to meet artists and their French counterparts. “Taiwanese musicians. Often, there are Chinese work longer hours, but I appreciate Families music performances. It is a very cozy having shops and restaurants open “I was very pleasantly surprised place.” longer hours and on weekends. It is very when I first came to live in Taipei, which For Italian visitors, Accili different than in Paris. That is part of the I find to be a very vibrant city,” says recommends visiting the top cultural- LIVING IN TAIPEI Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life

production sites are very old and are “everyone is at least bilingual so it is in worthwhile sights in themselves.” many ways really an English-speaking Finally, Italians being spa lovers, she country.” That said, the Taiwanese, in his recommends checking out Italy’s many view, seem very keen to learn English thermal resorts, particularly in Ischia— and there are both many schools teaching an island near Naples. “Currently, we are the world’s business language and lots of updating our official website www.italy.( English and English-learning materials org.tw) to put up more information about and books in the island’s bookstores. these places.” Lamas is very interested in learning Chinese, one of the main reasons why he applied for the post in Taipei. “With Spain: Sharing a bit more language ability now under a Love of Food my belt, I have been able to get around and Friends the city much more easily. Usually, when most Taiwanese meet foreigners, they Jose Luis Lamas Carril, director automatically trying out their English general, Camara de Comercio de Espana, so I have been having trouble finding was born in Vigo in the northeastern part opportunities to use my Chinese,” he of Spain, but moved to Madrid when adds with a laugh. he was 10 years old. Before Taiwan, Taiwanese, he says, are some of the he worked in Singapore for five years. friendliest people that he has ever met. “My impression is that Taipei is half “They are very helpful and never get Singapore, half China. By this, I mean angry. They also like to help foreigners that it is very well-developed and modern and are very interested in and like foreign

Discover Taipei like the former, but more traditional cultures. They have a good sense of and, in some ways, less planned like the humor as well.” 18 Up: Scene from Venice, Italy. latter. In Taipei, there is a lot less zoning (Photo by Tsai Ping-ru) When Taiwanese go to Spain, says and planning. Stores, malls, and movie Lamas, they should keep in mind that the theaters are located everywhere.” country gets 50 million tourists a year. Bottom: Ms. Maria Assunta Accili, director of the Italian Trade Office in Taipei. Taiwanese, unlike Singaporeans, are “That is very different from Taiwan. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) less able to function in an international This can cause people to sort of shut out language. “In Singapore,”says Lamas, tourists as a natural defense mechanism.”

education places like the National Palace Taipei is also surround by rivers where many old districts are beautifully melded into modern designs. Museum, National Museum of History, (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) and Taipei Fine Arts Museum. “I am very proud of the close cooperation that we at the Italian Trade Office have with the Fine Arts Museum. I am also extremely happy with the cooperation that we get from the Taipei City Government regarding cultural activities. They have been very helpful.” Accili encourages those interested in visiting Italy to get off the beaten track. “Naturally, first-time visitors want to go to Milan, Florence, Venice, and Rome, but Italy is a nation that is defined by its small towns and villages. Also, why not check out some of Italy’s incredible vineyards? People in Taiwan are becoming more and more familiar with the wines of Italy. Many of the Latins, Taiwanese Share Passion for the Good Things in Life LIVING IN TAIPEI

While the cuisine is very similar than turning down potential business. If in that both countries use a lot of rice, they cannot make a product themselves, the cooking methods are very different. they will find another way.” “We both use a lot of vegetables, fruit, Catalans are very enthusiastic and and oil,” says Lamas, while noting that, passionate, Wu states, while she finds “Spanish cuisine, however, involves a that people in Taipei are generally more lot more baking; Chinese rarely have reserved. “Business for citizens of ovens.” In addition, he believes, Spanish both cities is often their life, but people cooking involves using more salt, which in Taipei live to work while those in enhances the natural flavors of the food, Catalonia work to live. There is a very but “Chinese prefer soy sauce, which can big difference here in philosophical cover flavors.” outlook. I think Catalans know how to relax, take it easy, and have fun better Catalonian than people in Taiwan. They live with a passion during their free time.” Business people Wu recommends that Taiwanese start Leave No Stone a visit to Catalonia in Barcelona. “It is rich and beautiful with art, shopping, and Unturned gourmet food. Many people like to go “Taipei and the capital of Catalonia— to the Sagrada Familia cathedral, walk Barcelona—make for a very good along the Ramblas or Paseo de Gracia comparison,” notes Joanna Wu, director, and, of course, visit the Picasso Museum Catalonia Trade Office in Taipei. “The and the old part of town--Barrior Gotico. people are very much commercially Like Taipei, it is close to the sea and active, they are both big cities that are there is a fondness among the people Discover Taipei very prosperous and cosmopolitan, and for eating outdoors, especially seafood 19 there are a lot of cultural resources.” and fish, with family and friends.” Other Like Taiwanese, says Wu, Catalans must-sees are Montserrat, Girona for Up: Mr. Jose Luis Lamas Carril, director of Spanish Chamber of Commerce. work hard to get as much business as its Roman ruins, Garrotxa province for (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) they can. “They are clever about finding its volcanic terrain, and Figueres for the Bottom: Visit the old part of town in Barcelona to ways to fulfill project requirements rather Dali Theatre-Museum. find hidden treasures in the sky. (Photo by Eric Tsai)

Stores open late in taipei, something that visitors highly appreciate. (Photo by Yen Li-tai)

Information ‧Dozo No.102, Guangfu S. Rd. (光復南 路), Daan District Tel:02-2778-1135 http://www.dozo.com.tw/ ‧Shi Yang Shan Fang No. 160, Lane 101, Qingshan Rd. (菁山路), Shilin District Tel: 02-2217-7875 ‧Yangmingshan National Park http://www.ymsnp.gov.tw/ ‧Taipei 101and Observatory http://www.taipei-101.com.tw/ living in taipei Calling On the Creatiavity Muse in Taipei Calling On the Creativity Muse in Taipei By Jerri C. Graham Discover Taipei

20 Calling On the Creatiavity Muse in Taipei living in taipei

everal years ago, I decided I she is truly in her element. True Daley has plenty to say about working as a wanted to paint. I went out and Calling on her Caribbean heritage, the professional young artist in Taipei. S picked up an easel, watercolors, modern hip-hop of today, and numerous (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) an assortment of brushes, a canvas, and other musical influences, True's desire an artist’s smock so I could look the part. to create and perform has been with her I set up my supplies and adjusted my for years and with each passing year lighting around my husband, as he would only grows stronger. “I cannot live life be model for the first portrait I’d paint without expressing myself,” she states. in my soon-to-be successful art career. “In Canada, I couldn’t make a living as a Having never painted anything other than musician. Here, I can work as a journalist a wall in my entire life, I was convinced and teach while also expressing myself that I was about to create a masterpiece as an artist. Actually, my art is better here and I would soon be hailed as the next because it isn’t out of desperation.” As great artist of my generation. “Move over a singer, she is using Taipei to hone her Picasso,” thought I, “Jerri Graham is on skills and increase her wingspan. This the scene.” opportunity to be creative without having Didn’t happen. In the end, the to make sacrifices in other areas in her The social atmosphere and experience painting was a total disaster, the easel life makes life in Taipei a lot easier. sharing make cooking classes more fun. is out on the balcony, and the paints “I will stay here for as long as I can (Photo by udndata) are dried up in their box. I didn’t even continue to live this type of creative life.” come close to creating anything worth True may have been born with a hanging. Though just another one of singing voice worthy of being heard, my forays into the world of creativity, but for the rest of us, singing lessons or however, it won’t be my last. I, along even joining a choir can get us in touch

with millions of people, live for those with our inner Barbra Streisand, Jay Z, Discover Taipei moments when we step deeper into or Mick Jagger. Scott Prairie and Mia ourselves and express something that is Hsieh, two locally based world musicians 21 at our core. This desire doesn’t diminish who have managed to make their art over time, nor is it hindered because their oxygen, have established creativity we’re in Taipei. Despite the fact that for workshops. Painting, vocalizing, and In Taipei, there are many artists who work at a different career during the day and perform at foreigners the creative muse may speak dancing are just three of the areas where night time. (Photo by Ethan Yang) a different language here in Taiwan, she's they can midwife at your creative birth. still a loving mistress that calls us all to Their website, www.amovingsound. serve her. com, gives an overview of what these incredibly talented, trained performers A Star Is Born, and do and what they can do for you. If the Shines and Shines workshop scene is a bit much, private lessons for the vocally challenged are Before the morning sun has risen also an option. Jun Lee is a mechanic of fully in the sky, the sound of her voice the vocal chords with the ability to give can be heard across the airwaves of even the oldest of clunkers a tune-up Taipei. As part of the morning-news duo that can make their engine purr. Some on ICRT, the country’s sole English radio of Taiwan’s high-profile pop stars have Combination of fresh ingredients, experience, and love, station, True Daley tells of the atrocities early on come to her for the framework gives a way to the creativity in you. (Photo courtesy of Yu that have taken place around the world on which to build their budding careers. Ming-lung Design Co.) the night before. Delivering the news in an even, authoritative voice, she helps us Cooking Up a Storm make sense of a non-sense world. During the afternoon and evenings she teaches Pauline Snell doesn’t see herself high-energy kids, providing them with a as a “creative.” With a background solid foundation in English. However, in engineering, she may not feel it is when she stands before a crowd comfortable standing before a canvas, performing the music that she calls but working with a palette of fresh “Afro-Caribbean Folk-dafied Soul” that ingredients that includes phyllo, feta, and living in taipei Calling On the Creatiavity Muse in Taipei

spinach she works her magic and creates “Ballroom Bootcamp” on the Travel and How "Write" You Are a spanikopita masterpiece. After years of Living channel. Should your toes need to Immortality isn’t easily achieved. attending various cooking classes here do some tapping, Taipei has a vivacious Vampires get it through sucking blood, in Taipei, Pauline, a five-year resident of dance scene that is just waiting for you to but relatively few people throughout the city, has parlayed her culinary talents saunter into. history can be considered to have into the teaching of classes through the Jonathan, a banker by trade and dancer attained immortality. One way that Community Services Center. Pauline's by passion, is Taipei’s unequivocal many people seek to leave their mark is intimate cookery lessons, held in her papa of salsa and swing dancing. Each through writing. Answering this creative home, focus on creating traditional Greek Wednesday and Friday night he can call requires minimal equipment and can dishes. These are the savory dishes she be found at Escape, a local dance club, have lifelong results. grew up watching her mother prepare teaching his eager group of regulars the Born and raised in Columbus, Ohio, back home in the States. Composing her fancy footwork of decades-old dance Renee Amaro has stepped into the realm dishes with just the right combination of styles. While other dancers may teach of the reaching for immortality. Just fresh ingredients, experience, and love, or perform for the dough, Jonathan a few months ago, the language and she unleashes her own creative genius does it because he has to. “I need it. It's cultural specialist published her first and helps nurture that of others. Indian, a part of who I am.” From a family of Chinese, and seasonal cooking classes dancers, the 29-year-old has been part of are also available at the Center every the social dance scene for over a decade month. To find one that appeals to your and sees his creative outlet as being his creative culinary elf, check out their contribution to Taiwan. “In a way, I’m calendar at www.community.com.tw. helping to guide the creation of the salsa and swing-dance community here,” he Fancy Footwork says. While Jonathan has a devotion to dance, he realizes that it isn’t for Whenever you hear the hypnotic

Discover Taipei everyone. “This is for people that want to sounds of salsa music, your eyes glaze get involved in something that is socially over. You imagine that you’re Ricardo, 22 creative. You get out of it what you put a swarthy Latin lover wearing an open- into it, and it has a strong return.” His neck shirt as you effortlessly glide a classes, which begin between 9:00 and svelte beauty around the dance floor. 9:15 on Wednesday and Friday nights, But when you open your eyes you find are about 60% female, with a few expats yourself once again sitting in front of in attendance. the TV watching another episode of

People from all professions are drawn to the fancy footwork. (Photo by Jerri C. Graham)

non-fiction book, “Odd Woman Out: Black Girl Abroad.” This creative outlet wasn't just the marking of a tree, but was cathartic. “Putting things in black and white was a healing process that I couldn't have gone through with anything else,” she says. Started shortly after she arrived in Taiwan, the novel, which took a total of three-and-a-half years to complete, chronicles her life in such raw imaginative detail that it could only be a work of truth. She wrote the piece on and off, and sees the work as a creative

Writing is a solitary pursuit. Finding the right tools to work with is easy in Taipei. adventure as well as an educational one (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) in which she learned more about herself Calling On the Creatiavity Muse in Taipei living in taipei than at any other time in her life. I’m Ready for My Creativity for the Writing is a solitary pursuit. A crowd Close-Up Mr. DeMille Love of Mankind won’t cheer at the end of each sentence and there will be times when each word Admit it-you’ve written an Academy Creativity isn’t just a beneficial outlet must be pulled from deep within. The Awards speech in your head. You have the for the individual, but it may also be an end product, be it a novel or diary entry, names of all of the people you’d like to essential component in the growth and may not make its way onto the world thank, the people you’d totally omit, and development of the city of Taipei and the stage, but as Renee discovered it is the your shout-out to all the folks back home country of Taiwan as a whole. Richard peeling back of layers that once engulfed who allowed you to follow your dream. Florida, the noted public-policy professor her that is most significant. Other creative OK, so maybe you haven’t, but for the and author of such works as “Rise of the endeavors do this in their own way, but millions who have mentally drafted one, Creative Class” and its follow-up, “Flight with writing it’s put down on the once Taipei is a great place to get a lick, if not of the Creative Class,” has theorized that empty void of the page. Joining a writing a taste, of performing on the stage, small metropolitan regions that have higher group or starting one of your own is a screen, or in movies. Landing a role in a concentrations of such groups as gay way to get through this process. If this is commercial can be fun, but doesn’t exactly men, musicians, artists, and high-tech too social, “The Artist’s Way” and “The call on one’s creative side. However, the workers have higher levels of economic Sound of Paper,” both by Julia Cameron, wannabe filmmaker can step behind the development. Presuming that Florida is are two invaluable books for getting back camera and produce something akin to correct, having a city that supports the arts on track creatively, especially in terms of a work of art. Ben Andrews and Jimi and the development of creative outlets writing. Moe are the founders of the continually is not only a benefit, but also a necessity evolving film workshop Shooting People. for the escalation of the economy. The Bill Martin, member of Shooting People, gets into Focused on start-to-finish short-movie controversial writer also makes the action for a close-up shot. projects, this is another creative avenue suggestion that a better use of resources (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) along which to travel. Since its inception, would be to try and attract these “cultural Shooting People has aimed to provide creatives” through improving the cultural Discover Taipei participants with a channel where they and social scene of a city. Whether he's can artistically collaborate with right or wrong is still up for debate, but 23 other writers, filmmakers, advancing these aspects of a city will and editors to complete a never be considered negative. project. The group works by having Time to Get at It, an “instigator” conceive a People theme, dialogue, or catalyst from which the filmmakers When you find yourself drawn to leap. In the span of a month embrace your creative mistress, forget scripts are written, shorts are about guilt and grab hold of her with filmed, and projects are edited, and it abandon. You’re doing it not just for all culminates with the viewing of the yourself, but if you subscribe to Florida's shorts. Hollywood may not call, but point of view, you’re sort of, kind of, some extremely interesting work has possibly making Taipei a better place to been produced since the group first started live for all of us. So, do your part and in April of this year. Should your little Marty go out and get creative. You owe it to Scorsese start wailing to come out, Shooting yourself and mankind! People (on film) may be what you need. living in taipei Calling On the Creatiavity Muse in Taipei

Valuable Resources

Art Classes for All Ages Tianmu: Yi-Jhan Gallery (藝展畫廊) 306 Zhongshan N Rd,Sec 6, Taipei (臺北市中山北路6段306號) Tel: (02) 2835 6250. Weekday and weekend classes available in English.

Voice Lessons Jun Lee: [email protected] A Moving Sound: www.amovingsound.com

Cooking Classes Community Services Center: 23, Lane 290, Zhongshan North Road (中山北路), Section 6. Tel: (02) 2836-8134. In November and December, classes in noodle-making, preparing kebabs, and Czech cuisine are on the go.

Dance Classes Creative activities let children express themselves freely and artistically. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Salsa and swing lessons – stop by Escape at 13 Fuxing S. (復興南路) Rd. near Xinyi Rd.(信義路). Wednesday nights (9:00PM) swing, Friday nights (9:00PM) salsa.

Film Workshop Discover Taipei Go to shootingpeoplefilms.blogspot.com to find out the parameters for the next film workshop. 24

The guys at Shooting People give it a shot and have fun without shooting themselves in the foot. Their creative outlet is open to anyone willing to give it a shot in the dark. (Photo by Jerri C. Graham) Celebrating Christmas in Taipei Living in TAIPEI

y far the most difficult challenge my first year in B Taiwan was being away from home for Christmas. I badly missed not only my family, but also all the Christmas music, decorations, and food that go with the holiday season. However, as time has passed and I have built a family here, I have begun to observe some of the traditions learned at home while even coming up with a few of my own. Despite how easy it has become to have a proper Christmas celebration in Taiwan, there are relatively few foreigners who actually do it. The ones who are here for only one or two years to teach or study often do not have the time, or resources to celebrate the holiday in full form, often just opting to go out for a few drinks with friends. The foreigners who have lived here a long

time and are more financially stable Discover Taipei often elect to go home for the holidays. 2525 This option is all the more attractive since Christmas is not a high season in the Asian airline industry, allowing ticket prices to remain surprisingly reasonable. Nevertheless, there are still people who do stay in town for Christmas and pass the season in full merriment. For those select few, Taipei has proven to be a hospitable place to spend the holidays. To prove this point, we will meet some foreigners who call Taipei home and find out how they celebrate this precious holiday.

Who said turkey can only be served during Thanksgiving holiday? A juicy fat turkey dish at By Daniel Mojahedi Christmas Eve sounds yummy! (Photo courtesy of Yu Ming-lung Design Co.) Celebrating Christmas in Taipei LIVING IN TAIPEI Celebrating Christmas in Taipei

stores and sit on Santa’s lap, and observe Starting a Family all of your standard holiday traditions” notes Alan, “but I do not think that For Christopher Hess, a thirty- South Africans really go all out for three-year-old marketing manager and Christmas like people do in the States.” father of one from Brisbane, Australia, But since his arrival in Taiwan, the most important part of Christmas Christmas has become about friendship. while growing up was visiting the One thing that has promoted such values grandparents for the holidays. “When I has been Alan’s wife of six years and his was small,” notes Christopher, “we lived small yet close-knit group of friends. “It's in the same city as my grandparents. very good to have friends here. They However, we later had to move to are like a family away from home.” For another city. But every Christmas we the past three years, Alan and his wife would still make the four-hour drive have driven down to one such friend's back to their house.” house in Xindian (新店) to have a big Similar to Alan, Christopher and Christmas dinner, finishing off the his Taiwanese wife celebrate Christmas evening at a local KTV with a couple by having friends over for a big dinner. bottles of champagne. “Last Christmas we had a big roast A giant decorated and lighted Christmas tree near dinner at our house,” Christopher says as the Xinyi district malls is always one of the must- he and I sit under the glowing lights of see photo sight for visitors. (Photo by udndata) the Christmas tree at the Taipei Brewery (臺北啤酒工場). “We had about ten people around. Everything started Among Friends around ten in the morning, and then we went up and sat on the roof as the Discover Taipei Alan Pontes, the owner of Alleycats day progressed. We did a secret Santa, pizzeria and native of Cape Town, South bringing a gift and swapping presents. It 26 Africa, has never been home once for was the same sort of thing; just wanting Christmas in the seven years that he has to keep Christmas traditions alive.” been here; a rarity among foreigners Getting ready for a Christmas feast ! who have stayed in Taiwan for so long. (Photo courtesy of Paula Hughes) For Alan, the importance of Christmas seems to have grown during his time on the island. “When I was a child we would go to the department Celebrating Christmas in Taipei Living in TAIPEI

However, with the birth of his first Parents’ Support Council. She spent Seeing Things from child, the makeup of his family has much of last year’s holiday season changed significantly. “I think with preparing for the school’s holiday events. a New Perspective having a daughter you want to start “Before the children broke up for their Christmas has always been a hybrid your own traditions as well” reflects Christmas holidays, Christmas parties of Eastern and Western traditions for Christopher. “But that involves getting were organized at school. There was also Natalie Tso, an overseas Chinese from my wife’s family on board the Christmas a wonderful Christmas concert and, of Los Angeles, California. “Growing up,” thing as well, so that is going to be a course, the annual Christmas Bazaar was reflects Natalie, “we would have the challenge. We’ll try to get the lights, the presents, the songs; the grandparents involved. My folks whole atmosphere. But when my and sister will also be coming family would get together, they over as well, so this year should would play Mahjong, and our be good fun.” Christmas dinner was always a Chinese one.” However settling Building a down in Taiwan and getting married to a Taiwanese man, she Sense of has still had to accustom herself Community to celebrating the holiday in local For Paula Hughes, a full- fashion. “The first argument my time mother of three, the husband and I got into while holiday season can be somewhat dating was during the Christmas bittersweet. “The hardest thing season. I wanted us to go out about being in Taiwan for for a nice dinner to celebrate the Christmas is that I miss being holiday, and he took us to a food with my family and friends in stand.” Discover Taipei Ireland,” notes Paula, recounting Eight years and two kids the Christmas Eve tea, Midnight later, Natalie and her husband 27 Mass, and Christmas lunch her have learned how to strike a family would enjoy together. balance in how they celebrate “Stories were told and songs Christmas. “I think the were sung; it truly was a very expectations are different for me. magical time.” I have always liked the music Paula and her family have and presents. I wanted to have become actively involved in the holidays be nice and warm. Taipei’s foreign community, Needless to say, a Christmas will not be a true Christmas without And I try to make it that way. the light, the song, the family, the Santa Claus, and of course, the But with Jeff, he did not grow providing themselves with a “presents.” (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) greater sense of family during up celebrating anything. So for the holidays. Throughout the him it does not mean a thing. year Paula spends much of her time held at the end of November. It was very I understand that now. He does get volunteering at Taipei European School, successful and everybody had a really involved more; he helps out and buys where she serves as Chairperson to the great day.” presents and such. But it is not going to

Volunteers spend time at the Taipei The annual Christmas Bazzar is a charity Look, these are our Christmas European School. (Photo courtesy of the event. (Photo courtesy of the Taipei presents! (Photo by udndata) Taipei European School) European School) LIVING IN TAIPEI Celebrating Christmas in Taipei

be the same as it is in the States. Christmas for Me weekend to have friends over for tea and “But I also look on the bright side. Growing up, one of the most cookies. Those evenings were relaxed Christmas is such a stressful time in enjoyable traditions of the holiday yet festive ones, with a lit Christmas tree, the States. You have to buy presents for season was listening to Christmas music. Bing Crosby rattling of some classical everybody; you end up buying forty or By far our favorite record was a Johnny Christmas tunes, and us chatting about fifty presents. You have to cook up a Mathis Christmas collection. Like most life with friends. It was not much, but it storm. It is fun, but I think it is stressful such collections, it was cheesy and was warm and happy, like a Taiwanese for a lot of people. So when I think about chock-full of clichés. However, the Norman Rockwell painting. it, it is not so bad.” holiday season was just not complete Since the birth of her first son, Natalie without it. For weeks on end, we would has emphasized the Christmas tree as the listen to endless repetitions of our focal point of the Christmas season, not favorite carols; the touching《Have the presents below it. “I just love coming Yourself a Merry Little Christmas,》 home, putting on some jazz or Christmas the festive《Deck the Halls,》and the music, turning off the lights, and lighting reverent《Oh Holy Night》. up the Christmas tree,” she notes. “The As we have gotten older, my family’ lights blink on and off slowly and it is s love of Christmas has only grown more such a soothing experience.” emphatic, though slightly peculiar. My mother starts playing Christmas music on her office radio around late October, inviting many concerned glances from her coworkers. Fortunately, I have not Discover Taipei yet succumbed to such embarrassing habits. I use earphones. 28 However, as I have gotten older, the focus of most of my attention has Join us for the Taipei European School's Christmas shifted also to friends and family. Last Bazzar this year! (Photo courtesy of TES) Christmas my wife and I took a couple of nights during the Christmas For those interested in celebrating the holiday season, Taipei has all the ingredients necessary for a festive holiday season. Christmas decorations are offered in an abundance that surpasses tackiness and borders on debauchery. Such stores can be found behind Taipei Main Station around Changan West Road (長安西路 ). If you are looking for more religious- based decorations, Campus Bookstore ( 校園書房) at 22 Roosevelt Road, Section 4 (羅斯福路4段22號) is a good place to visit. Eslite (誠品), Senseio (新學友), and Kingstone (金石堂) bookstores offer a variety of Christmas cards and materials for wrapping presents. Some Eslite outlets even wrap presents for a modest charge. Celebrating Christmas in Taipei Living in TAIPEI

Many restaurants to offer a Christmas dinner, varying from the more modest efforts found at Grandma Nitti’s (中西 美食餐廳) at 8 Alley 93 Shida Road (師 大路93巷8號) to the high-class meals served at five-star hotels such as the Westin (六福皇宮飯店) and Grand Formosa Regent (晶華酒店). However, with one key theme of Christmas being having a home-cooked meal, many foreigners prefer to buy groceries from Jason’s in Taipei 101 or Costco to make their own Christmas dinner. And as for atmosphere, you might not have a snowman in your front yard or carolers grouping around every street corner, but that does not mean that you cannot create a little merriment of your own. In all honesty, celebrating Christmas m e s i n c e in Taiwan is not going to be like he went back to celebrating it at home. When Al Stillman the States with me wrote the line "There’s No Place Like one Christmas and saw the Discover Taipei Home for the Holidays," he was not atmosphere behind it. But I have 29 just looking for a witty chorus; the guy tried to adjust my expectations and knew what he was talking about. “I think not demand so much from him or those when going to another country you need around me during Christmas.” to think about why you celebrate that That does not mean you cannot enjoy holiday and celebrate it in a way where it your holidays here by any means. It just effort to get it done,” Christopher notes does not become a burden to those around means everybody involved has to work about celebrating Christmas in Taiwan. you,” reflects Natalie. “My husband has a little harder to make a Christmas all “But the awards are usually worth that been more open to celebrating it with can enjoy. “It takes a little bit of extra effort.”

There might not be a real snowman in your front yard, but there are Jingle bell! Jingle bell! Jingle all the way! The delicious strawberry cake for the still tons of decorations you may purchase during Christmas season in unforgettable Christmas season! (Photo courtesy of Yu Ming-lung Design Co.) Taiwan. (Photo by udndata) living in taipei On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs By Monideepa Banerjee

known, and not so well-known items and also listed the places where you can get them. These helpful pointers may enable you to find the “right kind” at the “right prices,” although the latter is probably a myth. Even after purchasing something at a bargain price, a tinge of dissatisfaction always remains that “had Discover Taipei I bargained a little harder . . . .” 30 ew Foreigners can resist the urge of collecting Calligraphy and Painting – The Oriental souvenirs while visiting or living in Taipei. Jade, Touch Ceramics, Silk, Antiques, Paintings, Embroidery, Tea, F These art forms not only remain at the core of Chinese Calligraphy, Pottery, Sweets . . . the range is so vast and varied that often selecting specifics becomes difficult. The result? culture, but also stay at the top of the shopping list for souvenirs/ “Well, the house looks like a virtual treasure trove of oriental art gifts. To westerners, they appear as the direct descendants of and artifacts”, laughingly admits one Canadian lady, “but I am a mystical culture, steeped in history and rich in aesthetical delightedly happy for those fascinating collectibles that give my value. “Regardless of whether I understand the meaning or not, house a very distinctive feel, which is simply adoring.” the beauty of those flowing characters or the elegance of those Those collectibles can be beautiful gifts/souvenirs for the simple paintings stir a passion in my soul, and I consider them people back home. “I have been religiously sending home the best souvenir money can buy,” states a teacher from Taipei Chinese silk, pottery, paintings, cushions and pillow covers, and European School, who’s made Taipei her home for the past other light weight items as Christmas gifts,” says an Australian four years. The casual tourists cannot ignore the spell of those resident, “which are very well received “magical scripts,” as one puts in, and consider them as treasured among my folks. It also costs a lot less than keepsakes to introduce some oriental flavor into their home. buying gifts at home.” The National Palace Museum is the best place to view Although many pragmatic people may calligraphy and paintings by master artists over the centuries. prefer to receive or give gifts in “red envelopes,” The gift store on the first floor of the museum sells replicas of with Christmas and New Year approaching, those great works, and is worth having a look. The prices range shopping for gifts/souvenirs will from 1000 NT to 20,000 NT depending on the size, time period, inevitably take up a lot of your time the master, and the type of the scripts/painting style used. in the coming months. To help you For some contemporary art work, visit Heping East Road(和 in your endeavor, our contributor has 平東路), Section 1, near the Guting(古亭) MRT station. The come up with this souvenir special shops on either side, especially the ones near National Taiwan with loads of information about the well- Normal University, sell good quality painting and calligraphy On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs living in taipei

for their workmanship as well as asset values. The underpass beneath the Jianguo Expressway between Renai(仁愛) and Zhong Xiao E. Road(忠孝東路) is abuzz with activities on weekends, when thousands gather here to check the staggering variety of items on display in its hundred odd shops crammed together. From tiny trinkets to bracelets, beautiful earrings to necklaces, eye catching figurines to intricately designed jade screens, fountains, vases--the list seems endless. Displays also include ornaments made from semi-precious stones, beads, pearls, tea items, bronze and brass objects, wooden carvings and stone sculpture. Also check out the nearby Weekend Handicrafts Market under the same overpass for its wide collection of Calligraphy and painting (唐詩書化合冊, 1988), by Chiang Chao-shen(江兆申), on poetry from the Tang handicrafts and other collectibles. Dynasty. (Photo courtesy of Ba Tong) Helpful Hints:

Jade is one of the most elusive and Discover Taipei difficult items to buy. There are two qualities of jade – the superior jadeite 31 works. The costs vary from 1000 NT to Jade, the mystical Stone or Burma jade and the nephrite. The 100,000 (without frame); costs of frames Nothing can be more fitting than basic thumb rule is to check the color may reach up to 12,000 from NT 2000. A buying jade to celebrate your stay and clarity of the stone against light. calligraphy brush and ink stone set or an in Taiwan. Confucius has attributed If it’s too opaque or waxy ( jade is engraved name chop in jade, also found scholarly qualities to jade(玉). The usually translucent and emits a glow) in these stores, can be an interesting Chinese character for jade is similar to then it's probably not jade. Before addition. that of King(王), with a small dot on making a major purchase, better visit Helpful Hints : the right, making it the Emperor's stone. some other stores to have an idea. While selecting a calligraphic Owning a piece of jade means being To share a trick, pretend to be some work, look for harmony between empowered with all those “kingly” kind of authority on jade, examine the composition and the script, qualities-strong, brave, generous, whether the strokes are clear and powerful, etc. Even if you skip all that powerful, the ink faded or distinct, jargon, the bottom line is jade is indeed the flow easy or restricted and most a gorgeous stone and Taipei is one of the importantly, whether you feel good best places to buy jade as it reportedly (the calligraphers claim this as has the biggest jade bazaar in South East beneficial qi) by looking at it, though Asia, the Jianguo Weekend Jade Market. you may not decipher the meaning. Besides, there are hundreds of jewelry Chinese Paintings follow a simple shops spanning every neighborhood style that gives prominence to one that sell expensive jade items along with central theme, mostly landscape or beautiful gold jewelry. Gold pendants flowers. Human or abstract figures bearing Chinese characters of “luck,” are not the norm, but the exception. “fortune,” “happiness,” “wealth,” etc. Jade and other precious stones come in various Paintings of bamboo and flowers like are other prized souvenirs from Taipei shapes and colors. (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee) the peony are considered auspicious. living in taipei On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs

the piece against the light and bargain shops exhibit a wide range of textiles, heavily. It works for me, and may silk being premium. However, the Yong work for you as well. Le market at 93-94, Sec 1 Dihua Street, is a virtual heaven for silk. The shops Silk – Vibrant yet Elegant on the second floor sell silk of enviable quality and textures – in all conceivable Silk is highly appreciated as a gift colors and motifs –from soft pastel to because it can be turned into an exquisite bold and striking. The prices start clothing item later. An elegant silk at NT 180 and climb up to NT Qipao, the traditional dress for 1200 per yard. Chinese ladies, or a Mandarin Helpful Hints: jacket for men can be the ideal The shops on the third floor of memoir of your Taipei Yong Le market sell interesting days. Silk cushion covers, accessories like buttons, table cloths, runners, bed lace, ribbons, sequins, spreads, etc. also look and Chinese styled very elegant and beautiful. knotted button. The They can be your best bet tailors on the third if you are required to bring back floor can create the gifts for every member of your most striking gown for extended family as they take up you, charges begin from A snapshot of a pottery warehouse in the Old less space and weight. NT 3000. The night markets Pottery Street. (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee) The best place to buy silk is Discover Taipei especially the Shilin night market; Dihua(迪化) Street. The nearest near Jiantan(劍潭) MRT station and 32 MRT station is Shuanglien(雙連), from Raohe(饒河) Street night market there walk west of Mingshen West Pottery and Ceramics – Art have shops selling ready-made silk Road(民生西路) towards Dadaocheng in Clay cushion covers, table cloths and wharf for about twelve minutes. The runners at reasonable rates. The excellent craftsmanship and the painstaking labor that go into its making has fetched Chinese pottery a wide spread fame. The National Palace Museum has some outstanding collections of tri-color pottery from the Tang, celadon wares from the Sung and hand painted ceramic objects from the Ming and Qing dynasties. The gift shop of the museum has some replicas of those exquisite artifacts that are worth every penny. However, the best place to buy pottery and ceramics is Yingge(鶯歌), which is considered as the pottery capital of Taiwan. Many of my expatriate friends admit that they visit Yingge every month, to collect outstanding pottery pieces that include beautiful blue and white Ming vases and intricately designed Chinese dolls among other

From picking a color and type of textile to seeing it going into manufacturing adds a character to the things. The local brand of pottery – Juzhi clothes. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs living in taipei

Tea and Tea Wares The medicinal value of Chinese tea has spread far and wide making it a most sought after gift these days. There are simply too many variations to select from. Visit the tea section of any supermarket to get an idea. There are specialized tea shops like Ten Ren’s Tea that has a staggering selection of tea from all over the island. With such variety the prices flower varieties are heavily scented, vary widely, often reaching up to NT which is more like a drink than tea, 2000 for a mere 100 grams. although they do have their share of A good quality teapot accompanied patrons. by tea is a highly esteemed souvenir of the island. The tea wares are real works of art. The hand made purple clay teapots Antique Furniture are the most expensive ones. Cha for Tea, Antique furniture is usually a good a Ten Ren’s outlet, which has branches memento to collect from Taipei for any at every corner of Taipei, has some one living there for a while, especially if beautiful teapots on display. The pottery the freight charges to home are being paid by the company. One of the most popular

shops at Yingge have a large variety of Discover Taipei tea utensils and some exclusive tea pots. items of furniture is the traditional Helpful Hints: Chinese chest, commonly called a 33 Pottery- in predominantly green and red Go for plain Oolong or high mountain camphor chest that comes in a variety is also popular among foreigners. Baozhong tea if you prefer a gentle of designs and usually is rectangular in Helpful Hints: flavor and light color. The fruit and shape. The high backed chairs, popularly To go to Yingge, take the Second Freeway and exit at Sanyi-Yingge Interchange, then turn left and cross the Sanying Bridge and proceed along Wenhua Road. The entire town is replete with pottery shops, workshops, and pottery warehouses. The Old Pottery Street is an interesting place to browse for souvenirs. Besides decorative items, the cook-and- serve black clay pots that come in all sizes are worth a look for their utility value.

Taipei offers many types of tea and tea wares from all over the island. (Photo by Lin Ruei-zhu) living in taipei On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs

range of traditional Chinese furniture. The Weekend Handicrafts Market, mentioned above, also has a good stock of old furniture. Helpful Hints: As it is really difficult to discern antiques from fake, it is imperative to have some background knowledge. Antiques are usually sold by the dynasties, so knowing about Ming and Qing Imperial China may be of help.

Colorful Beads – Native Born The native people of Taiwan produce beautiful hand made gift items and Asian décor accents and contemporary Asian arts make powerful impression on the guests. jewelry from colorful clay beads and (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) things like straw, stone etc. Each item exudes an earthly charm, a rustic feel known as Ming chairs, are also well liked also has the highest concentration of ex- which is accentuated by the use of bold

Discover Taipei for their Spartan elegance. The traditional pats living in Taipei. The shop at 231 patterns and symbols. These can be an four poster bed, called ba-chiao-chuang, Zhongshan North Road(中山北路), Sec exclusive souvenir of Taiwan. Check 34 with carved posts and backrest, drawers, 6 has a huge collection of screens and the gift shop at the Ketagalan Cultural hooks for mosquito net and clothing is chests while the next door shop, No. 229 Center at Beitou. The address is No. 3-1, quite a unique piece, if you can afford has an enormous collection of Buddhas. Zhongshan Road, Beitou, the nearest the price which is well over the hundred Andari Collection at No. 726 Zhongshan MRT station is Xinbeitou, from where thousand mark. Those on the look out North Road, Sec 6 has an unparalleled it’s a three minutes walk. The shop for their money’s worth, the carved panels and Chinese screens are better bets. Decorated with a wide variety of interesting motifs, often religious, the panels cost a couple of thousands while the screens can be bought starting at NT 10,000. The majority of the antique furniture shops are clustered around Zhongshan North Road, Sec 6 and Sec 7, which

Earrings made from colorful clay beads at the boutique of Ketagalan Cultural Center. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) On the Hunt for the Perfect X'mas Souvenirs living in taipei

has over a few hundred pieces, mostly bead work as in hand made bracelets, necklaces and pendants. There are some carving and weaving items as well. Also check out the Aboriginal Gift Store at the Taipei City Hall MRT station. Helpful Hints: The color scheme, shape, and pattern of each bead carry special significance and are worn accordingly. For example: the dragonfly eye bead is the most powerful of all the eye- patterned beads; the vibrant green colored bead is the symbol of abundance, and the scale patterns indicate bravery.

Embroidered Shoes Various sweets are sold in Dihua, and can accommodate both the adults and children. Handmade embroidered shoes can (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) be another exclusive souvenir from Taiwan. In the city's Ximenting area, Sweets and Cakes bakeries sell customized boxes of there remains a few shops that still Discover Taipei pineapple cakes which can be preserved make embroidered shoes in the whole Traditional sweet candies that for days and taken home. of Taiwan, increasing the importance of are sold around Dihua Street in large 35 this item multifold. Mostly silk is used numbers during Chinese New Year are as a base on which beautiful flowers are an interesting addition as souvenirs, Places to Visit if one is embroidered by hand. Of late, rubber especially for the kids. The pineapple Pressed for Time and leather soles have been used to make cake, a specialty item of Taiwan can also Excellent gift stores are at the the shoes more durable. The address be included in the list of souvenirs. Once National Palace Museum and the of one recommended shop is Dongtai available only during the Mid-Autumn Chinese Handicraft Mart at No 1 Shoe Store (東台布鞋莊) No. 19, Lane Festival, this delicious product is now Xuzhou Road(徐州路). The former has 22, Wuchang Street (武昌街), the available year round. City Hall recently selective items, mostly replicas of those nearest MRT station is Ximenting Tel: held an exhibition and established a exquisite art objects that once adorned 2311-2380 Prices start from NT 500. direct link for the bakeries that had the Imperial courts of China. The Helpful Hints: gone through the hygiene inspection: Chinese Handicraft Mart is a non profit Don’t give shoes with a lotus motif http://www. fonglisu.tw/ center under the Taiwan Handicraft at the back because index7.htm. All these Promotion Center and provides a one- that is reserved for the stop shopping place for all kinds of dead. The peony or the gifts and souvenir items, barring a few Chrysanthemum motifs specialty items. Ex-pats living in Taipei are the most make at least two stops to this great store popular. – once while settling in and once while leaving to stock up on souvenirs to take home. No bargaining. Have fun and enjoy your shopping.

Jade and other precious stones come in various shapes and colors. (Photo by Monideepa Banerjee) Looking Back: PHOTO ESSAY A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings

Looking Back: Discover Taipei 36 A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings By Daniel Mojahedi

A bicycle rests gently in disrepair against the outer wall of one of the residences around Wenzhou Street. Just like the bicycle, many of these homes are in poor condition and could soon fade into history. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi)

have always been attracted to Taipei’s older buildings. torn down to make way for office buildings and apartment Regardless of whether they have been refurbished complexes; a necessary yet lamentable part of city growth. I or are showing the effects of time, these structures This photo essay is far from exhaustive. Such architecture have a character about them that newer buildings fail to is too sparsely scattered throughout the city to capture all of it convey. Wood, clay, and iron mix to give the observer on film. This is at best a brief introduction to Taipei’s forgotten a tangible feel of what life was like in the city’s past. architecture. For this photo essay I have gone in search of such places. While those that have been cleaned up are clearly marked on Heping East Road(和平東路)and Wenzhou maps and mentioned in travel books, most others are hidden Street(溫州街) among the mazes of alleys and skyscrapers. As the city continues its development, many of these structures are being This area is home to a large residential district full Looking Back: A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings PHOTO ESSAY Discover Taipei

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of classic homes. While these residences’ high outer walls prevent you from getting a good look at the houses inside, it is still a pleasant place to take a stroll.

This home's Japanese-style architecture helps tell the story of Wenzhou Street's colonial past. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) Looking Back: PHOTO ESSAY A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings Discover Taipei

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Puji Temple (普濟寺): A Japanese-style temple near Beitou. The dragon has always been an icon that (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) symbolizes power and spirit in Eastern culture. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) Looking Back: A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings PHOTO ESSAY

Beitou is full of hot-spring resorts, such as this one, with delicate architecture and beautiful gardens. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) Discover Taipei

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A tree graces the exterior of The Beitou Hot Springs Museum (北投溫 泉博物館), giving a pleasant view to those on the inside and outside. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) Looking Back: PHOTO ESSAY A Brief View of Some of Taipei’s Older Buildings

Beitou (北投) Tingzhou Road(汀州路) Most of Beitou’s historical structures These are some structures that I are centered around Xin Beitou (新 stumbled upon while shopping with my 北投) MRT station and were built wife around Gongguan (公館). They during the Japanese occupation. Due are located in an area not too far from to the area’s hot springs, Beitou was a Treasure Hill (寶藏巖), but are not a part popular destination for those looking of the same community. to relax. Many of these buildings have Discover Taipei been refurbished and are now popular 40 weekend resorts.

Despite its dilapidation, this abandoned building still retains a sense of community, color, and history. (Photo by Daniel Mojahedi) The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns Discover Taipei

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By Sean Scanlan

utumn is the best time Research Institute, “In the U.S. and to be in Taipei, with Canada, these trees are the most colorful A cool temperatures in fall.” perfectly suited to outdoor activities such In case you were wondering, both as hiking and camping. While summers maples and oaks are indigenous Taiwan are moist, a time of mosquitoes and high species, with the first seeds either arriving humidity, autumn is a time when families via air currents from mainland China or and friends gather outside, taking via migratory birds. These hardwoods advantage of the last heat-carrying rays prefer colder climes, thriving at mountain of the sun before winter. It’s no wonder elevations - such as in Yangmingshan that many residents of the city believe National Park. the Mid-Autumn Festival (中秋節) is the These two species are largely very best time to be in Taipei. responsible for the spectacular autumn Northern Taiwan enjoys a temperate burst of color in forests throughout climate, leading to a year-long growing the world, bursting forth with - reds, season, which affects autumn foliage yellows, and oranges when they feel the for some deciduous tree species. “Even first of many cool evening nights. Chiou Quercus or oak trees in Taipei can says - the difference between evening be green year-round because of the temperatures and those brought with the Hiking in Yangmingshan during autumn season is warm temperatures,” says Chiou Wen- bright sunshine of autumn afternoons both fun and relaxing. Come, join us! (Photo by Hsu liang (邱文良) of the Taiwan Forestry leads these trees to develop a corky Yu-kai) OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns

growth on leaf stems. This growth leads to a loss of green chlorophyll in the leaf, and cuts down the flow of sugar back to the tree, ultimately resulting in autumn color changes.

Yangmingshan National Park Yangmingshan National Park is site of one of the few elevations in northern Taiwan that allow for evening temperatures low enough to cause maples and oaks to change color. This is especially evident on Mount Datun (大 屯山), the park’s highest peak, which can offer remarkable shades of orange. In winter, temperatures on Yangmingshan can fall below zero Celsius, mimicking some of the same conditions in North America. In addition to these colorful hardwoods, autumn months in Yangmingshan also offer a glimpse of Miscanthus, or Japanese silvergrass, a tall Discover Taipei perennial grass known for its beautiful 42 late-autumn bloom, transforming the slopes of Yangmingshan into an ocean of color. The grass, native to Japan, has recently Miscanthus been generating interest as a bioenergy crop, with stems

Sits atop on Mount Datun, Miscanthus, or the Japanese silvergrass, is known for their late- autumm bloom that often attracts visitors from afar. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu)

The high-elevation of Yangmingshan provides serious mountain hikers different challenges to conquer. (Photo by Hsu Yu-kai)

harvested for heat and electric power. In Range. Heavy annual rainfall feeds into autumn, visitors come to the windward underground streams heated by thermal side of Mt. Datun where the grass grows activity, which sometimes turns the in clusters. What is remarkable about waters to steam, creating a hot-spring silvergrass is that it’s robust grass species belt in the park. capable of surviving where most others Warm, acidic soil and plenty of water cannot. from cool northeastern monsoons makes High-elevation Yangmingshan for abundant vegetation in Yangmingshan was created several million years ago National Park, generally categorized into with the collision of the Philippine and three groups: water plants, grassland Eurasian plates beneath the Pacific plants, and forest vegetation. As one Ocean, generating tremendous energy can imagine, water plants are generally later released in the form of hot magma, dormant in the autumn and winter, forming the volcanic Datun Mountain though the park’s forest and grassland are The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES

A turtle fetching for food in order to store up for the coming winter. (Photo by Hsu Yu-kai)

in full bloom during the last few weeks before winter.

Taipei Botanical Garden Of course, one does not have to travel as far away as Yangmingshan to catch some of the beautiful autumn colors, as the Taipei Botanical Garden on Nanhai Road (南海路) with many species that exhibit seasonal changes over the garden's eight hectares of plant-life. Much of the site is dominated by towering trees

- planted by Japanese colonialists after Discover Taipei the garden’s founding in 1896. these trees have grown magnificently in the 43 past century, occupying much of the garden's space and providing cool shade in summer and early autumn. “Many of these trees are already mature, and they take up so much room that we have little space for new plants or species,” says Chiou, who is in charge of administering the garden and its full- time staff of six gardeners. Chiou says the garden’s trees - have few problems adapting to the city’s automobile pollution; however, many of the trees Taiwan blue magpie is just one of the special species come under threat from natural enemies here in Taiwan for bird watchers to appreciate. (Photo by Hsu Yu-kai) such as fungus and insects. The biggest challenge is dealing with insects which can infect some of the plant species, threatening the garden’s long-term health. For this purpose, pesticides are commonly used, and have been helpful in maintaining a healthy balance between insects, which do bring benefits, and plant species.

The scarecrow used in the Taipei Botanical Garden has become one of the attractions for young children. (Photo by Hsu Yu-kai) OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns

Many colorful insects may be spotted while strolling around the Taipei Botanical Garden. (Photo by Hsu Yu-kai)

Chiou says the main purpose of the The flowers, pollinated by bees, are commonly referred to as Waishuangxi botanical garden is to educate the public, either male or female, and both sexes can (外雙溪) which takes its name from the and that’s why signage and informational be found on the same plant. Waishuang Stream (外雙溪) which flows material abounds throughout. Distinct Yet another tree with colorful fall through a beautiful valley complete sections are laid out based upon plant- foliage is the Zelkova serrata or Japanese with tall trees and beautiful fall foliage. classification systems. The garden also zelkova, a large shade tree maturing In actuality, this area is geographically serves as a habitat for small animals. to a height of 20 meters. Part of the similar to nearby Yangmingshan National Seasonal plants in the garden which Elm family, this tree is fairly common Park, though it is considerably more exhibit remarkable fall foliage include throughout the U.S. as a replacement for urban in nature. the American Elm (Ulmus americana), as Sapindu mukrossi, a handsome deciduous The stream flows past the National it is resistant to Dutch Elm Disease. The tree from India. The species is also known Palace Museum, which has allocated leaves are dark-green and have a foliage as soap-nut tree or ritha, and is one of a large portion of its land to a beautiful transition to an appealing mixture of the most important trees of tropical and outdoor garden, boasting tall pine trees and sub-tropical Asia, the dried nut used as yellow, gold, orange, burgundy, red, and wine in October and early November. other hardwood varieties. Nearby is the Discover Taipei soap and in detergents, shampoos, etc. Zhite Garden which is open to the public The tree flowers during summer, its 44 and does not charge an admission fee, and flowers small and greenish-white, its fruit Waishuangxi to the east of the National Palace is the appearing in July-August and ripening by Another interesting area to see Zhishan Garden which charges visitors November-December. The seed or soap- fall colors is a corner of Shilin that is NT$10 to partake in the shade of tall trees, nut is enclosed in a black, smooth, hard covering, collected during winter months for seed and for sale. Another garden tree exhibiting remarkable autumn color is Pistacia Chinensis, or Chinese pistache, which grows to 10-15 meters and has deciduous, foot-long leaves composed of 10-16 leaflets. These leaves turn to brilliant red or orange,with female trees bearing clusters of tiny red fruit if a male specimen is nearby. This tree is popular with gardeners as it tolerates drought and diverse soil conditions, and is one of the most colorful trees in autumn with brilliant hues of red-orange or yellow. The color change is slow and therefore provides attractive, varying hues over a lengthy period. Liquidambar formosana, commonly known as Formosa sweetgum, is a deciduous tree which can grow to 12 meters, with flowering in May and seeds ripening October through November. African Violet-Saintpaulia, taken at Floriculture Experiment Center, Taipei, showcases the beauty of the fair lady, Autumn. ( Photo by Hsu Ping) The Beautiful Colors of Taipei Autumns OUTDOOR ACTIVITIES a bamboo grove, and a landscaped garden Normal University Extension program and in fall, large clusters of the two-inch- that was completed in 1985. there are examples of Koelreuteria long "Chinese lanterns." These papery Following the steam, one can travel elegans, which goes by such names as husks are held above the evergreen all the way to the Zhihshan Cultural Chinese rain tree, flamegold, and golden- foliage and retain their pink color after and Ecologic Park which is under the rain tree. It is known for its petals which drying and are very popular for use in care and management of the Wild Bird provide shade all year round, falling, everlasting flower arrangements. Society of Taipei. While Just outside of Taipei is the much of the park is low in wonderful riverside community of elevation, a climb through Wulai (烏來), known for lush vegetation adjacent hills provides the and a planted concentration of Japanese cool temperatures needed for cherry trees, which provide a stunning fall foliage. backdrop to the misty river. For most, Large crowds turn out these cherry trees are most spectacular every weekend, and don’t be in the spring, while others believe they surprised by many families come off as being a tad artificial when who come to take advantage compared to the more natural beauty of of the wonderful views. Even maples and oaks. photographers flock to this Other locations for viewing location to see autumn colors wonderful fall foliage include the and enjoy an inexpensive and The Japanese silvergrass is being captured during the sunset. district of Shilin's Waishuangxi (外雙 family outing. This area of ( Photo by Michael Yang) 溪; Waishuang Creek) in the Zhishan Waishuangxi is considerably Road(芝山)area, and along Beitou’s easier to access than Yangmingshan, and in large clusters making it apopular Guizi Creek (貴子坑溪) . hence the greater popularity. landscape tree. This broad-spreading, evergreen Other Places in Taipei tree reaches a height of 35 to 45 feet Discover Taipei and eventually takes on a flat-topped, The Taipei Botanical Garden is 45 On a stretch of Dunhua North Road somewhat irregular silhouette. It is often located at 53 Nanhai Road(南海 (敦化北路) as well as along Roosevelt used as a patio, shade, street, or specimen 路) and is serviced by busses 1, 242, Road(羅斯福路) near National Taiwan tree with yellow flowers in early summer, 624, and 907.

A snap shot of Yangmingshan's maples turning red. ( Photo by Michael Yang) Taipei Fine Arts Museum culture/art Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga

Taipei Fine Arts Museum Opens Taipei Biennial

2006 with Dirty Yoga By Sean Scanlan

Performance art by Robin Rhode. (Photo courtesy of the Perry Rubenstein Gallery, New York) Discover Taipei

46 Taipei Fine Arts Museum Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga culture/art

fter nearly a month of Cameron was instrumental in In short, life-enhancing activities such renovation, the Taipei Fine choosing this year’s “Dirty Yoga” theme, as yoga have become part of a new belief A Arts Museum is reopening a term he describes as “entirely my own system for modern people. Furthermore, its doors in November with the highly invention,” referring to something he Cameron adds, “ artists everywhere have anticipated Taipei Biennial 2006. says “doesn't exist yet, but probably will begun to pay attention to and promote a Every two years, biennales are major soon enough.” In a statement on the ‘third way’ of understanding the world exhibitions of contemporary art, hosted museum’s website he writes, “People - not according to the direct opposition by major cities. The first ever biennial today are afraid of losing their health, of a conservative social establishment took place in Venice, and the format has their beauty, their youth and their wealth. and an anti-establishment, but beginning since flourished in other cities. Taipei is To counter their fear of facing this reality, with a synthesis of the many, and leading currently hosting its 5th biennale, joining they invent different spectacular spaces to consensus and other forms of non- a growing number of Asian cities hosting and collective activities. Gradually, oppositional resolution.” well-known biennials such as Kwanju, these spaces and activities are replacing In his statement, Cameron says Shanghai, and Hong Kong. abstract religion and turning into a “artists invited to this Taipei Biennial Biennale events are usually arranged universal belief.” participate in different forms in a by guest curators, bringing together an international cast of artists and their Lee Bul’s（李部） “Mon work based upon a pre-arranged theme. grand récit” is trying to High-profile curators provide regional convey a slightly ironic museums with a broader contact base stance towards the impossibility of “grand of artists, as well as greater exposure in récit” or “grand narratives.” the international art community. Dan (Photo courtesy of Govett- Brewster Art Gallery, New Cameron is the guest curator for Taipei Plumouth, New Zealand) Biennial 2006. His resume includes

curating the Istanbul Biennial “Poetic Discover Taipei Justice” as well as regular assignments as senior curator of the New Museum of 47 Contemporary Art in New York.

Dan Cameron, a guest curator for Taipei Biennial 2006, describes this year’s “Dirty Yoga” theme as Chou Meng-te’s (周孟德) “Urban Night Life” depicts the scenes in the urban pubs and the sub-culture “entirely my own invention.” (Photo courtesy of transplanted from abroad to our island state. (Photo courtesy of Chou Meng-te) the Taipei Fine Arts Museum) Taipei Fine Arts Museum culture/art Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga

discourse of ‘between-ness’ that produces “sometimes the decision to include hybrid, mutated, nomadic meanings that or exclude an artist becomes a largely are always contingent, and often subject subjective one, based on a hunch.” to multiple interpretations.” On a deeper Hu Hui-ju (胡慧如), public-relations level, Cameron says, the theme topic specialist for the Taipei Fine Arts deals with how “globalization adapts Museum, says this year’s exhibition and distorts ideas, practices and cultural is notable for its diversified group of conventions without any concern about artists from South America and other their origins.” Southeast Asian nations. Hu says the To better understand this theme, one museum has been fully supportive of the needs to look at Cameron’s previous work “Dirty Yoga” theme and, before that, an at the “Poetic Justice” Istanbul Biennial, intermediary concept dubbed “between- with artists exploring concepts ranging ness” associated with Cameron’s belief from world affairs to global villages, in multiple interpretations and meanings. technology, and modern justice. Cameron While Cameron is providing the says that he has been inspired to organize broad curatorial direction for the show Wang Jun-chieh (王俊傑), a local co-curator, is exhibitions with a 'global village' focus, as well as a list of international artists, providing both logistical and regional expertise to 王俊 this year’s Taipei Biennial 2006. (Photo courtesy of due to a groundbreaking show organized local co-curator Wang Jun-chieh ( the Taipei Fine Arts Museum) by Jean Hubert Martin in 1989, “Les 傑) provides both logistical and regional Magiciens de la Terre,” the first global- art exhibition. Says Cameron, “I believe the challenge of bringing together art with a sense of global continuity is really the most important artistic mission of our

Discover Taipei lifetimes.” Furthermore, he adds, “China is very much a part of this equation, 48 regardless of how culturally homogenous it remains.” The diverse group of artists invited to take part in Taipei Biennial 2006 reflects Cameron’s global focus, with artists from such faraway lands as Cuba, Brazil, Spain, Mexico, and Italy. Cameron says selecting artists for the biennial begins with “a couple of hundred working artists who I'd like to collaborate with,” later selecting artists “because I think they make extremely interesting work, and because they fit into the theme, in that order.” Admittedly, Cameron says,

Jung, the photographer of the “location” series, once said “I like when people look at my work and try to discern which elements are artificial and which are real.” (Photo courtesy of the Kukje Gallery)

expertise. A native of Taipei, born in and Department of Fine Arts at Taipei 1963, he graduate from Taipei’s Chinese National University of the Arts. His Culture University in 1989 and later work has appeared in many international attended Hochschule der Kunste Berlin exhibitions, including the Kwangju (Art Academy Berlin), earning a master's Biennale '95- InfoART, the 47th Venice degree in experimental film in 1996. Biennale (1997), the 2nd Johannesburg

Jonas Dahlberg’s “Invisible Cities 2005” are Wang has taught at the Department Biennale (1997), Taipei Biennial: “Site produced from the installation of video of Fine Arts at National Changhua of Desire” (1998), the First Fukuoka capturing equipment. (Photo courtesy of Galerie Nordenhake Berlin/Stockholm and Galeria Juana University of Education and at the Asian Art Triennale (1999) , the 3rd de Aizpuru Madrid) Graduate School of Arts and Technology Asia-Pacific Triennial of Contemporary Taipei Fine Arts Museum Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga culture/art

Art (Queensland,1999), "The Sky is the his conceptual artwork, including the crisis this year, struggling to maintain Limit”: 2000 Taipei Biennial. creation of mock business enterprises an ageing infrastructure some 23 years His long list of biennial appearances such as “Microbiology Association.” old. Museum officials believed it was has brought an international reputation Under the guise of this non-existent time for a major overhaul, recently across Asia, and locally he has been company, Wang produced a line of shutting for month-long renovations that active curating shows, which have clothing and the necessary print ads, included installing three new elevators, included “Faces of the Time" (National brochures, and even exhibition space. and re-working its central escalator. The Palace Museum, 2002), "Absolut Wang took his project a step further in improvements will help the museum Expressions" (Taipei Fine Arts Museum, an exhibition at Taipei’s IT Park gallery better serve its visitors, as well as 2002), "Navigator: Digital Art in the called “Microbiology Association: Hotel ensure operations years into the future. Making" (National Taiwan Museum of Project (Bibless).” For this project, Renovations were completed in mid- Fine Arts, 2004), “Lots o’LOTTO – Seen he converted the gallery into a hotel October, after which the biennial’s roster and Unseen” (Taipei Fine Arts Museum, room complete with monogram towels, of international artists immediately began 2005), "Vivienne Westwood" (Taipei slippers, room-service menu, and installing their work for the November

Nalini Malani is the director of the videos “Medeamaterial” and “City of Desires,”which capture documents of ephemeral works. (Photo courtesy of the Bose Pacia Gallery, NY) Discover Taipei

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Fine Arts Museum, 2005), and most substitute bible, the “Bibless (聖經指南).” 4th opening. recently "B!AS : International Sound Art Many believe Taipei Biennial Some of the most anticipated artists Exhibition" (Taipei Fine Arts Museum, 2006 could not have come at a better include Brazil’s Regina Silveira, who 2005). time for the Taipei Fine Arts Museum, will decorate the museum with over- Still, many appreciate Wang best for which has entered a sort of mid-life sized stickers. Another artist making Taipei Fine Arts Museum culture/art Opens Taipei Biennial 2006 with Dirty Yoga Discover Taipei

50 Bourgeois Family: Mirror Frieze. Photograph by Vivan Sundaram. (Photo courtesy of Vivan Sundaram)

a big impression is German Katharina Grosse, who does large installations of bright colors either streaked or sprayed upon museum walls. Grosse’s work, universally appreciated, has appeared in multiple biennial exhibitions. South African Robin Rhode uses his body as his canvas in live “performance art” contortionist pieces which will entertain audiences on the opening night of the Installation artist Regina Silveira from Brazil installs foot print stickers all over the Taipei Fine Arts Museum. This signifies the visitors who come to the museum. exhibition. (Photo courtesy of the Taipei Fine Arts Museum) There are six local artists partaking in the exhibition this year. Different from many traditional artists, Meng-te Chou wool threads to mimic everyday objects museum’s hours of operation are Tues- (周孟德) bases his theme on urban night and to present the idea of space. Hong- Sun 09:30 to 17:30 (open national life. His works reflect the reality in life kai Wang (王虹凱), mostly displays her holidays, closed Mondays, special and deliver powerful messages on urban work overseas, has returned to present 09:30-21:30 Sat hours). The Taipei lifestyle. Another worth mentioning by using sound of foot steps. Chun-hui Fine Arts Museum is located at 181 local artist is VIVA. He is being praised Wu (吳俊輝) and young artist, Arthur Ou Zhongshan North Rd., Sec. 3; tel: (02) for reflecting sarcasm in life via comics (歐宗翰) both use video capturing at this 2595-7656. More information can be based on the Chinese legendary stories: year Biennial. found at either www.tfam.gov.tw Romance of the Three Kingdoms. E The Taipei Biennial runs from or www.taipeibiennial.org . Chen (陳逸堅), also an architect, utilizes November 4th to February 25th. The The Golden Horse Film Festival culture/art

The Golden Horse Film Festival·By Sean Scanlan n some respects, the Golden Horse Film Festival (金馬獎) is two I different events: a showcase for 100 or so international feature films that travel the festival circuit beginning with Cannes and ending in Toronto; and secondly, a Chinese-language awards ceremony fashioned after Hollywood’s Academy Awards. In the beginning, the Chinese- language awards ceremony was the major thrust of the festival, funded by the Executive Yuan beginning in 1962 to stimulate the local film industry with cash prizes for the best feature films and documentaries. Nowadays, this Discover Taipei ceremony has little influence aside 51 from the one-day glitz and pomp of a gathering conducted on a red carpet with local-region and foreign actresses spilling out of expensive dresses. While the awards ceremony may attract all the media attention, local audiences flock to the festival's international-film program of approximately 100 feature-length films. This portion generates the majority of the festival’s annual budget, some NT$10 million a year in box-office receipts. That’s not a bad haul considering the festival operates just three screens at area cinemas, and runs for just over two weeks. Previous festival attendees, however, will know a large number of films sell out weeks ahead, and average attendance at lesser-known films can approximate 90%. For film buffs, the two-week event is their best chance to watch foreign- language films and independent cinema. Outside of the festival, few films are able to survive theatrical release, especially considering the fact that Taipei has been "Poster fresh out of the oven." (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) culture/art The Golden Horse Film Festival

Oscar sized awards bestowed on the Asian actors and actresses. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) Discover Taipei

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Matthew Barney’s film, “Cremaster Cycle.” (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) Opening film, Tsai Ming-liang’s “Black Eyed.” (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee)

reduced to just three art-house cinemas: sales leading to shabby theaters, and which did well at the festival and in its the newly reopened Majestic, Chang theater owners with little reason to make theatrical run. Many of these independent Chun, and Spot-Taipei theaters. investments in better technology. films are hindered by smaller advertising “A good box office draw for an Wang estimates that 10 of the films and promotion budgets; independent independent film is probably around featured in the Golden Horse Festival will distributors typically only have the NT$1 million,” says Steven Wang(王 see later release in area theaters. In fact, budget to print posters and flyers, unable 師), a festival organizer. “This would a good showing at the festival generally to tap such avenues as on-site promotions probably require a 3-4 week run at a means good box office for the film later. and cross-promotion campaigns with local cinema, and only 10 or so films are However, some festival favorites such as fast-food companies such as McDonald’s able to do this every year.” U.S. director Jim Jarmusch do not have and Burger King. Prior to joining the festival, he the fan base to support theatrical release, Unable to compete on a major scale worked for local film-distributor Panasia, despite the fact his films regularly sell with big-name distributors such as Buena and knows firsthand about the difficult out at the festival every year. Vista and Warner Brothers, Taiwan's financial conditions most independent Films which fare better include independent-film distributors (Zeuss, cinema faces in Taipei, especially what offbeat hits such as German director Panasia, CMC) take a keen interest in the he calls the vicious cycle of poor ticket Wolfgang Becker’s “Goodbye Lenin,” festival, often signing distribution deals The Golden Horse Film Festival culture/art

before the films show and occasionally throughout Taiwan, a decision fiscally the festival as Zoe Chen, a festival contributing to pre-festival publicity for motivated as municipalities contributed organizer, says the “Director in Focus” certain films. much of the funding needed to hold progamming will feature a trio of foreign In fact, festival buzz begins in mid- this gala event. This year the ceremony directors. In years past this segment October when general sales begin for the will return to Taipei, more specifically, showcased venerable directors late in program and 3,000 multi-ticket packs. outside the newly completed Taipei their careers. This year, organizers are These packs can be redeemed for tickets Arena. bestowing honors on youthful, obscure starting one week later, at any major Local television station Azio will be directors such as Matthew Barney, ticket outlet throughout Taiwan. It’s not responsible for the broadcast. The event Nicolas Winding Refn, and Yamashita uncommon to see long morning cues will undoubtedly be open to the general Nobuhiro. as film buffs eagerly snap up tickets to public considering the size of the venue. Barney may be the best known, in the favorite films. Furthermore, press A number of live performances may part due to his high-profile marriage screenings in mid-October satisfy critics take place, providing a nice bookend to to musical performer Bjork. The term eager to write about the year’s top films. lengthy award ceremonies catering to the “art-house” film wouldn’t be wasted on While the international-film segment large gathering of local film celebrities Barney, as his films are largely visual draws the biggest crowds, the awards and a handful of regional actors who fly adventures with loosely structured, non- ceremony for Chinese-language films in for the weekend. narrative plots. Many may be familiar is undoubtedly the main draw for It won’t only be Chinese-language with his “Cremaster Cycle,” a well- local media. For the past 43 years, this actors and directors on hand during known film cycle which stretches over ceremony has been presenting Oscar- five feature-length installments. The sized awards; the event gained greater young artist and director has also been credibility and international acclaim deemed worthy of a retrospective at the in 1996 when both mainland Chinese Discover Taipei films and actors were allowed to join the The Japanese director, Yamashita Nobuhiro is said 53 competition. to have a quirky and easy-to-understand style. In recent years, the awards ceremony (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) has been hosted by different cities

The Danish director, Nicolas Winding Refn will be visiting Taipei during the Festival. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee)

Previously released film by Nobuhiro: Cream and Lemon. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) culture/art The Golden Horse Film Festival

Don Letts’ “Punk: Attitude” is one to look out for and should cater well to the rock music lovers. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) Discover Taipei

5454 A Robert Altman’s film: A Prairie Home Companion. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee)

Guggenheim Museum in New York. Barney is well liked in Japan, where his signature style of monster-like characters, a visual aesthetic based upon stark lighting and soundsets, and eerie use of Vaseline and other semi-liquid substances have wowed audiences. His latest film was made aboard a whaling boat, to chilling effect. There are many notable films in the “All That Rock” section. “Glastonbury” by Julien Temple has been Slightly more obscure is Nicolas selected to show. (Photo courtesy of the Golden Horse Committee) Winding Refn, a director from Denmark described as being in the vein of Quentin Both Refn and Nobuhiro will be in Taipei for best actor and actress awards. Tsai Tarantino, delivering a quick-hitting to attend special screenings. Barney, is no stranger to the Golden Horse Film succession of films ranging from “Fear however, has prior commitments. Festival, regularly contributing opening X” and “With Blood On My Hands.” This year’s opening film is Tsai films such as “Goodbye Dragon Gate” And finally, Yamashita Nobuhiro is a Ming-liang’s “Black Eyed,” which vied and other cult hits such as “Viva L’ director in the vein of Jim Jarmusch and for the Golden Lion award at the 63rd Amour.” Aki Kurasmaki. He has a quirky, easy-to- Venice Film Festival. The film centers Other notable program highlight understand style made famous with films on a group of tramps living in desperate in this year’s festival include a special such as “Linda, Linda, Linda,” about a conditions in Kuala Lumpur. Local actor section devoted to rock music called young female rock-and-roll band, and his Lee Kang-sheng and Black Eyed co-star “All That Rock,” with films including previous release “Cream and Lemon.” Chen Shiang-chyi were in competition “Glastonbury” by Julien Temple, “Punk: The Golden Horse Film Festival culture/art

Attitude” by Don Letts, and “New York She says the change in location will organizers have encountered this year, as Doll” by Donald Whiteley. allow for more ticket sales, as many of film-rental, shipping, and insurance costs Other highlights include new the theaters the festival used at Warner have risen across the board. Robert Altman film “A Prairie Home Village were small, while the Shin Kong

Companion” and a special “Midnight Cineplex has three theaters each with 500 Film” category featuring well-known seats. Furthermore, the change in venue “ Wu’s Amour Legende” has placed its setting hits such as “Pink Flamingos” and “El also reflects the rising prices festival on a desert and is deemed to be a big hit. Topo.” (Photo courtesy of Ryefilm Ltd.) Of course, many will pay special attention to a segment called “Made in Taiwan,” with new films from Wu Mi- sen (吳米森) called “Amour Legende” and “Reflection” by Yao Hung-yi 姚宏( 易). This year, the festival will be held at the Shin Kong Cineplex (新光影城)in the Ximending area. The location is sure to draw a youthful crowd. Previous festivals were held at Warner Village in the Xinyi District, catering largely to a white-collar crowd, according to Zoe Chen. Discover Taipei

Local rising star, director Wu Mi-sen has 55 made a loud entrance to the Golden horse this year. (Photo courtesy of Ryefilm Ltd.)

“Exit No. 6” is a fiction that reflects on the young people who hang out at Ximenting. (Photo courtesy of Yi Tiao Long Hu Bao Studio and Rockboys)

Another local rising star, Yao Hung-yi’s film “Reflection” has a strong work team and likely to receive applauses as well. (Photo courtesy of 3H Productions Ltd.) SPORTS Taipei on the Run

Taipei By Monideepa Banerjee he running scenes in Taipei have never looked better. the A decade back, only a few were coming alive at the on T city’s numerous parks and gardens, while most of Taipei was blissfully asleep. These days visit any of the venues mentioned above even at early dawn, and you are sure to encounter hordes of runners, of all ages, seriously pursuing the sport. As people have become aware of the benefits of healthy exercise, running has won the hearts of Taipei residents for its relatively hassle free requirements. Besides a good pair activity,Run one does not need anything, anything at all, for a good of sports shoes, which is the basic requirement of any sport healthy run. “Moreover, the runners enjoy absolute freedom,” Taipei Discover

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Photo by Wang Neng-yu Taipei on the Run SPORTS Taipei

For beginners, join the string of runners along the riverbanks in the city’s riverside parks will be the first step to a healthier life. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu)

says one hard-core runner, “as you can run any where, any or request them to introduce you to any community running Discover time, whenever you feel like it, without depending on any club, if you had not run into one already. 61 one which often restricts one’s participation in other team The best place to run uninterrupted for long stretches sports.” with minimal traffic is the hills behind National Chengchi If you are already a serious runner and want to University in Wenshan District. The hills around participate in some competitive sports activity, and Muzha Zoo also provide some quiet places to run, have some fun in the bargain, then road running is both on and off the road. Nearer to the city, the hills of the best option for you. Road running has taken over Neihu or Songshan Mountain are the preferred choice Taipei in recent years. While earlier there were only as Yangmingshan is too populated during weekends. a few events with long gaps in between, now various For running on a flat path, the city’s riverside parks long distance races, including top league marathons, provide the best options since they were joined together are being organized regularly in the city throughout to form a 100 km freeway for bikers and runners. Be the year. The catch is despite its low profile, there are careful some enthusiastic kid may take a fancy to begin generous prizes both in cash and in kind especially for the racing with a foreigner on foot. The other choices are marathons. To increase participation, often the organizers the running tracks in the city’s innumerable parks. The announce interesting rewards, in the form of gift vouchers synthetic running surfaces at National Taiwan Normal and souvenirs. For most participants, however, participation University (NTNU) or National Taiwan University (NTU) matters more than winning. can also be used, especially by those attending courses at any of these universities. Get Going, Get Running

If you are yet to find your running legs, or just about Some Info about the Races started, then the best way to get some more exposure Most of the races in the Taipei area, whether government before you become dedicated is to join the runners in your sponsored or privately funded are organized by the Chinese community. There are over twenty such amateur running Taipei Road Running Association (CTRRA). Occasionally, clubs in Taipei, and chances are there will be one in your a few of the lesser known events are held by local running neighborhood as well. In case you are not sure, join the string associations like Yonghe Running Club. Chen Ing-Chien, who’ of runners along the riverbanks in the city’s riverside parks or s been participating in all the major races including the Taipei at the Daan Forest Park. Once you get some practice, approach marathon, feels that the running scenario has undergone a lot your fellow runners, to include you in their running schedule of improvements in the past few years, especially after Mayor SPORTS Taipei on the Run

Ma Ying-jeou had taken office. Since then, the Taipei running calendar has seen a plethora of important races, sponsored by the city government added to its schedule. Besides many smaller events, there is a race in Taipei now every few weeks (check the CTRAA website for full details). Some of these races are held annually and are well established among the international racing community like the Taipei International Marathon. Despite his busy schedule, the Mayor takes part in many of these races, encouraging more participation from the local and foreign communities. The racing season kick off with New Year’s Day Run in the month of January, a short stretch of about 5 km, followed by a Nike 5 km fun run also held in January. In the racing community these are considered as warm up races. The first big one is held around March when the runners run a full length marathon (42.195 km) over the city’s expressway. Last year the race was sponsored by Nike and it ran over Sun Yat- sen Expressway. “It was great fun, the city looked tantalizingly beautiful from the top,” confirms Leonard Lu, who had joined the racing community late but now

Discover Taipei has completely immersed himself in the sport running for long hours each weekend to make up for the lost 62 time. “One of the interesting things about these races, besides the health benefits, is that they allow one to visit places that otherwise might be seen only on the map,” says a high school student Garry Lai, who took part in Toroko Gorge marathon as the youngest runner under 17. He hadn’t visited Toroko otherwise, and the race gave him the chance to visit that beautiful region Getting refreshments from your loved one at the pit stop will make you feel from close range which is truly amazing. rejuvenated and ready to continue the long journey again. Another race that takes one through a scenic (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) surrounding is the Yangmingshan National Park race over a testing 10.6 km, and usually held in July. Some parts of the road which are generally off limits to the public for military reasons are opened especially for the race. One can get to see a spectacular coast line from the various turnaround points on a clear day. Buses usually make a trip from other parts of Taipei to the venue on race days, so commuting to and fro is not a problem. After the race is over, one can take a dip at one of the numerous hot springs scattered over that region to feel recharged again. The usual running season kicks off in the month of September and the whole running scene gets highly charged up with a number of practice races before the Taipei International Marathon which is scheduled in mid-December. This year the race is slated for 17th Dec The ING Taipei International Marathon has always attracted variety of participants including the young and the elders. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Taipei on the Run SPORTS

and named as the 2006 ING Taipei International Marathon. has been holding worldwide in memory of the brave Canadian Most of the practice races, however, are held outside Taipei, Runner, Terry Fox, is a race well attended for its good cause. in Hualien, Taichung, and Kaohshuing. Participation in these The money collected from registration and otherwise is races is not a pre-requisite for participating in the race in donated for cancer research; usually this 5 km race is the most Taipei. But if you are a serious runner, then all these practices popular race among schools and college students. will definitely help you improve your performance. November The running season ends with Taipei International sees participants running their way through Toroko Gorge, Marathon, this year it will be held on 17th December. Over climbing over 550 meters amid sheer cliffs and narrow gorges the years this race has established its name in the racing circuit and then proceeding through a beautiful terrain. The Toroko of the world and participants come from all over, including Marathon is probably one of the most difficult marathon races the best runners in the field of marathon. Last year the race in the world. “Somehow, when you are running through those was attended by over 100,000 participants, which was a world beautiful locales, you really don’t feel the hardship,” says record. The sponsor ING hopes that this tradition will continue Garry, who plans to take part again this year. this year, too, and the ING Taipei International Marathon will An interesting race will take place this November 17th at create a new record in the history of marathon races. National Taiwan University, where the participants will run Predictably, the prize money is very high, over a million for 100 kms. The registration for this race is over, but you can USD if one can break the record set earlier. A member of the visit the venue on that particular day to cheer the enthusiastic CTRRA points out that for the past two years new records participants. “Such challenging races are often organized to are being set every year. Chances are pretty high that this test the endurance and running ability of the participants,” says year also something will happen as some heavy weight the chairman of Yonghe Running Club, “where there is no marathon runners have already shown interest to participate fixed distance to cover, one runs for fixed hours and covers as in this event. To increase participation, the race is broken into much distance as he can.” The Terry Fox Charity Run which different segments and lucrative prizes are announced for every

segment. There Discover Taipei are attractive 63 incentives for kids and students to take part in this race. The registration for the marathon race closed 31 October, but if you want to take part in the “Run for Fun” part, which is a good way to start, then contact CTRRA at least a week before the race. The registration for kids and students is free, but there is a small registration fee if you want to take part in the competition. The ING Taipei International Marathon has always attracted variety of participants Both endurance and running ability are critical when competing in the run. Who’s the next winner? including the young and the elders. (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) SPORTS Taipei on the Run

How to Get Started ago. Some races like Toroko Marathon allows only a limited number of participants on a first-come-first-served basis, so The races organized by CTRRA are divided into two often registration gets filled up well in advance. But you can groups – the competitive and the leisurely. If you want to take heed and prepare yourself for the next racing season. take part in competition then you need to follow the rules Since most races are held on weekends, the dates change and regulations observed by CTRRA. For details check the accordingly. Sometimes the venue and time also change. So CTRRA website, www.sportsnet.org.tw or visit the offices in it's better to check the websites or call up CTRRA regularly to person. The website is bilingual and surprisingly very well find out the details. developed. You can find all the information you are required to Participation in the “Run for Fun” section remains open know from how to participate in a particular event to a detailed for a much longer period, often till the race itself. Just be there list of races scheduled to be held in the year. The address is on that day, about an hour before the race and you can join in. No.1, Yu-men street (Chungshan Soccer Stadium), Zhongshan If you want to get a feel for road running in Taipei, you can get Dist., Taipei (Telephone: 2585-5659 ext. 9 and Email: started with any of these runs, the Terry Fox Run or the Taipei [email protected]). The CTRRA staff is very friendly International Marathon. Besides working up your muscle and with some of them speaking very good English. losing some calories in the process, it’s a great feeling to run Since the year is drawing close, you will probably not freely through the city’s crowded arteries without the traffic be able to register for any of the major races under the honking at you from every corner. competitive section; this registration had closed about a month

When there are runners, there are cheer leaders. Hip, hip, hurray! (Photo by Wang Neng-yu) Discover Taipei

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