sign in sign up
<<
Home , Asia Tour, Banqiao District, Big City (shopping mall), Chung Tai Shan, Chun Shui Tang, Dapeng Bay

2019/7/3 上午5:53 ISSUE SPONSOR July 2019 | Vol. 49 | Issue 7 Issue | 49 Vol. | 2019 July Published by the by Published Commerce Commerce In American Chamber Of NT$150 TRAVEL & TRAVEL 2019 CULTURE Read TOPICS Online at topics.amcham.com.tw Online at TOPICS Read 號 執 照 登 記 為 雜 誌 交 寄 THE AMERICAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE IN TAIPEI BUSINESS TOPICS July 2019 | Vol. 49 | Issue 7 中 華 郵 政 北 台 字 第 5000 7_2019_Cover.indd 1

CONTENTS 6 President’s View A few of my favorite Taiwan travel moments JULY 2019 VOLUME 49, NUMBER 7 By William Foreman 8 A Tour of Taipei’s Old Publisher Walled City William Foreman Much of what is now downtown Editor-in-Chief Taipei was once enclosed within Don Shapiro city walls, with access through Art Director/ / five gates. The area has a lot to Production Coordinator tell about the city’s history. Katia Chen By Scott Weaver Manager, Publications Sales & Marketing

Caroline Lee 12 Good Clean Fun With Live Music in Taipei

American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei Some suggestions on where to 129 MinSheng East Road, Section 3, go and the singers and bands 7F, Suite 706, Taipei 10596, Taiwan P.O. Box 17-277, Taipei, 10419 Taiwan you might hear. Tel: 2718-8226 Fax: 2718-8182 e-mail: [email protected] By Jim Klar website: http://www.amcham.com.tw 16 Taipei’s Coffee Craze 050 2718-8226 2718-8182 Specialty coffee shops have

Taiwan Business TOPICS is a publication of the American sprung up on nearly every street Chamber of Commerce in Taipei, ROC. Contents are independent of and do not necessarily reflect the views of the corner in recent years. Can they Officers, Board of Governors, Supervisors or members. © Copyright 2019 by the American Chamber of Commerce thrive in a traditional tea-drinking in Taipei, ROC. All rights reserved. Permission to reprint original material must be requested in writing from AmCham. culture? Production done in-house, Printing by Farn Mei Printing Co., Ltd. By Matthew Fulco 10866 20 One Woman’s Quest for a 5000 ISSN 1818-1961 Qipao The classic garment is elegant Chairman: Leo Seewald and evocative of traditional Vice Chairmen: C.W. Chin, Petra Jumpers Secretary: Fupei Wang Chinese culture. But do you Treasurer: Al Chang need the figure of a professional 2018-2019 Governors: Anita Chen, C.W. Chin, Petra Jumpers, Leo Seewald, Daniel Tseng, Fupei Wang. model to carry off wearing one? By Kathy Chen 2019-2020 Governors: Al Chang, Albert Chang, Seraphim Ma, Jan-Hendrik Meidinger, Paulus Mok. 24 Find Your Work-life Balance

2019 Supervisors: Vincent Shih, Terry Tsao, Dylan Tyson. Taiwan offers a wealth of options for helping to improve COMMITTEES: Agro-Chemical/ Melody Wang; Asset Management/ wellness and mindfulness. Christine Jih, Derek Yung; Banking/ Paulus Mok; Capital Markets/ Nadia Chen, Mandy Huang, C.P. By Jules Quartly Liu; Chemical Manufacturers/ Charles Liang, Michael Wong; Cosmetics/ Shirley Chen, Abigail Lin; CSR/ Lume Liao, Fupei Wang; Energy/ Randy Tsai; Human 30 The ABCs of Resources/ Vickie Chen, Monica Han, Carmen Law, Seraphim Ma; Infrastructure/ Wayne Chin, Paul The major city in central Taiwan Lee; Insurance/ KT Lim, Linda Tsou, Dylan Tyson; Intellectual Property & Licensing/ Jason Chen, Peter has much to recommend it as Dernbach, Vincent Shih; Marketing & Distribution/ Wei a stopover for local and foreign Hsiang; Medical Devices/ Jeffrey Wang, Joanne Yao; Pharmaceutical/ Petra Jumpers, Rie Nakajima; Public tourists, including its architec- Health/ Joyce Lee, Tim Shields; Real Estate/ Tony Chao; Retail/ Ceasar Chen, , Peggy Liao; ture, museums, and – surpris- Sustainable Development/ Kenny Jeng, Cosmas Lu, ingly – greenery. Kernel Wang; Tax/ Stella Lai, Cheli Liaw; Technology/ Cynthia Chyn, Hans Huang; Telecommunications & By Joshua Samuel Brown Media/ Thomas Ee, Joanne Tsai; Transportation & Logistics/ (tba); Travel & / Gina Tsai. COVER PHOTO COURTESY OF GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES

4 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7_19 Contents.indd 4 2019/7/3 下午5:26 JULY 2019 • VOLUME 49 NUMBER 7 COVER SPONSOR 34 More Hotels Opening to Meet Rising Demand The types of facilities reflect changes taking place in the make- up of Taiwan’s tourism market. By Anna Yang 38 Changing Ways to Celebrate an Ancient Holiday By Wujun Ke

Company Profile Everrich has been bringing Taiwan to the world since 1997 with the establishment of its first travel retail outlet in the International Airport. With extensive retail outlets in all of Taiwan’s 42 Saddle up for a Tour de major international transit points, including the Taoyuan International Taiwan Holiday Airport, Taipei , Taichung Airport, and The island is a cornucopia of Harbor, Everrich is the leading proponent of Taiwan tourism. delights for cyclists keen for the call of the open road, mountain Now, Everrich has gone further in enhancing the development of adventures, Pacific Ocean vistas, the tourism industry in Taiwan by opening up even more shopping and myriad cultural highlights. plazas throughout the nation, including the outlying islands. Everrich By Jules Quartly launched a gleaming shopping center in Taipei City in 2012, followed 46 Exploring the Third Taitung by the Golden Lake Plaza and hotel in Kinmen, officially opened in 2015. The latest project, Discovery Hotel and Profond Pier No. 3 Duty Most visitors to the popular south- Free Complex, soft opened in in February 2018. eastern focus on either the coast or the East Rift Valley, but the area’s string of scenic moun- Everrich has garnered numerous accolades for its role in promoting tain towns also deserves attention. Taiwanese tourism. Everrich won “Best Airport Retailer of the Year” By Steven Crook and “Best Downtown Retailer of the Year” in 2016 and 2017, part of the Global Frontier Award given at the annual Travel Retail Exhibition 50 Goodbye, Farewell, and in Cannes. Moreover, with its partner Taoyuan International Airport, Amen, Taiwan Everrich has won the Skytrax “Best Airport Service Personnel” award By Joshua Samuel Brown for both the Asia region and the World numerous times.

SPONSORED CONTENT 昇恆昌企業簡介 15 Reimagining Luxury Retail at the Regent Taipei 源於對臺灣的熱情，昇恆昌免稅 商店以立足本土、接軌國際為職志， 28 Everrich: Making Duty- 1997年起先後取得高雄國際機場綜合 free Shopping Ever More 免稅商店、桃園國際機場第一與第二 Convenient 航廈、臺北市區免稅預售中心、臺北 36 Varian Medical Systems 松山機場、臺中機場、金門水頭商港等營運據點經營權。 54 Seeing Taiwan 為推廣台灣觀光、提昇旅遊服務品質、配合政府建設離島政策，陸 續於2012年落成啟用台北市區「昇恆昌免稅廣場」，2015年金湖廣場 A Slow Drive in Taiwan’s Deep 及飯店正式開幕，2018年更在澎湖全新開立國際型觀光飯店及大型複 South 合式購物商場。

昇恆昌先後於2016、2017年法國坎城旅遊零售展上，榮獲國際專業 媒體Frontier Award評選為「全球最佳機場免稅業者」及「全球最佳市 區免稅業者」大獎。更與桃園國際機場共同協力連續多年獲得Skytrax 「全球最佳機場服務人員」亞洲及全球雙料冠軍。 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 5

7_19 Contents.indd 5 2019/7/3 下午5:26 PRESIDENT'S VIEW

A few of my favorite Taiwan travel moments

eople often ask me what’s my favorite destination in Taiwan, and I always tell them the East Coast – the entire East Coast. I love buying a train ticket from Taipei to Tai- P tung and spending the better part of the day looking out the window at the stunning passing scenery – the mountains dropping off onto the green farm fields and rocky coast, with the vast blue Pacific Ocean stretching out into the horizon. But when I think of all my travels over the nearly 10 years I’ve lived in Taiwan, the places I’ve visited don’t stand out the most in my mind. My best memories are of the things I’ve experienced and the wonderful people I’ve met. I’ll never forget my first trip in Taiwan in the late 1980s when as a language student I went to Alishan with a classmate. While stopping in the southern city of for the night, we went out for an evening stroll and happened upon a neighborhood where a man had set up a huge screen and film projector in a back alley and was showing a gangster flick to his neighbors. We found stools, sat down, and started watching the movie with the rest of the neighbors, who with typical Taiwanese hospitality welcomed us and shared snacks with us. I don’t know why, but movies are much more enjoyable when watched under the stars. I’ll never forget the strong sense of community I felt in that cine- matic alley. Another unforgettable experience was participating in the infamous Beehive Fireworks Festival in 2002 in the southern town of Yanshui. The locals build beehive-like contraptions that launch thousands of bottle rockets at the intrepid – some may say foolish – participants in the festival. As the fireworks screamed by my head or exploded in my face, I had never felt more alive. The rush of adrenaline is almost overwhelming and definitely addictive. As soon as one volley of fireworks ended, I couldn’t wait for the next to begin. My most recent memorable Taiwan adventure was taking my 16-year-old daughter on a whale-watching trip in Hualien. I’ve always struggled with seasickness, and the water was choppy that day, so I was bracing for an uncomfortable voyage. The things we do for our kids! We spent a couple hours on the water and didn’t see any dolphins or whales. But we had a terrific time standing in the bow of the boat. A little girl who stood next to us enter- tained us by screaming “Whaaaaaaaaaahhhh!” every time the vessel crashed over a tall wave. I learned that I don’t get seasick if I stay in the front of the boat and focus on the horizon. We can’t wait to go back and try again when the next whale-watching season begins. Reflecting on these moments reminds me of how fortunate we are to live in a beautiful place with such a rich culture. There are so many things to explore and experience here. This explains why our July travel issue of Taiwan Business TOPICS is one of our most pop- ular reads of the year. It definitely inspires me to get out more and see more of Taiwan.

William Foreman President, American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei

6 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

presidents view.indd 6 2019/7/3 上午5:55

WALLED CITY WALKING TOUR

A TOUR OF TAIPEI’S OLD WALLED CITY

Much of what is now downtown Taipei was once enclosed BY SCOTT WEAVER within city walls, with access through five gates. The area has PHOTOS BY CHRIS STOWERS a lot to tell about the city’s history.

he Taipei city wall was completed by the in 1884. T Although it survived for only 16 years, its influence on modern Taipei is still surprisingly evident. Over the years, the

wall and its five gates have witnessed many NATIONAL THEATER changes in Taiwan, both painful and hope- ful. Join us for a tour of Taipei’s wall and the city that developed along its path. In 1881, Cen Yuying, the energetic Governor of Province, visited Tai- wan to push forward plans for a Chengnei (, “inside the walls”) area within the new Taipeh Prefecture () that made up most of present-day northern Taiwan. This Chengnei, located roughly between the settlements of and Bangka (Wanhua), was to serve as the capital for the prefecture. With the completion of the wall and gates, voila, Taipei was born. early actions, in 1900, was to dismantle were built on the old wall’s foundations, Five gates were built into the wall, each the Taipei wall. The West Gate was also this slant remains with us today. leading to a different settlement: removed, but resulting protests helped save Now let’s “walk the wall” by follow- • North Gate “Beimen” () – to the remaining four gates. ing its ancient path, which is about five Dadaocheng port/Dihua Street Although the physical wall was torn kilometers in length. A good starting point • West Gate “Ximen” () – to down, its influence continues to the modern is the Beimen MRT Station. The station’s Bangka day. The Japanese built four of Taipei’s B1 level has several interesting archeologi- • Little South Gate “Xiaonanmen” ( major roads upon the wall’s foundations: cal displays of discoveries made during the ) – to Banqiao Zhonghua, Aiguo West, Zhongshan South, station’s construction. Outside Exit 1 are • South Gate “Nanmen” () – to and Zhongxiao West. several plaques, including a 1911 Taipei Guting One other lasting influence is the off- map highlighting the roads that replaced • East Gate “Dongmen” () – to center orientation of downtown Taipei, the wall. Songshan on the River as the four roads mentioned above all To the east on Zhongxiao West Road However, the winds of war soon angle 13 degrees to the east from a strict is a large renovated Japanese-era build- changed things dramatically when north-south axis. This phenomenon can be ing that is the site of the future Railway ceded Taiwan to in 1895 as part of credited to a gentleman named Liu Ao, the Ministry Park (). the Treaty of Shimonoseki ending the First Qing Dynasty’s Master of Observations Beyond it is the recently relocated Mitsui Sino-Japanese War. When Japanese troops for . A fengshui expert, House (), which is now arrived to take control after a complicated he successfully argued that the wall should a museum exhibiting many historical pho- interregnum, they marched into the city be oriented toward Qixing Mountain to tos. The stately North Gate (Beimen, ) through Taipei’s North Gate. the northeast, making it the city’s “back- is directly across the street. One of the new administration’s ing mountain.” As the new Japanese roads When Qing dignitaries visited Taipei,

8 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Wall.indd 8 2019/7/3 上午5:56 WALLED CITY WALKING TOUR

they would disembark at Dadaocheng, proceed south down Yanping North Road and enter the city through the North Gate. We shall do no less. Stroll across Zhongx- iao West Road at the crosswalk and pro- ceed through the North Gate into the old walled city. Each of the five gates has a formal , and for the North Gate it is Chengenmen () – “Gate of Granted Favor.” North Gate is part of Beimen Square (), a wonderful example of urban transformation. Until a few years ago, the North Gate was obscured by a clumsy elevated road, but with the dismantling of the overpass, the gate once again stands proudly in this open area. Beimen Square is filled with information about the wall and its era, North Gate, long obscured by an overpass, is now again easily accessible. including blocks from the wall’s foundation. Impressions in the sidewalk show the path of an old railway line as Just to the right of Boai Road is West Wall (Zhonghua Road) it turned the corner and proceeded south Yanping South Road, which was moved outside the west wall. to its current location in 1910 during A few steps west of Beimen Square is Across from the North Gate on Boai urban restructuring. The new location Zhonghua Road, which was the old west Road is the grand Beimen Post Office was a boon for its fortunes, and this wall. Zhonghua is extra wide at this point, (). The current building was wealth is highlighted by the Futai Street as it formerly accommodated the rail line completed in 1930, replacing a two-story Mansion (), which was also reimagined in Beimen Square. The old structure built in 1898. Boai Road was one completed in 1910. It’s now a museum route from Taipei Station past Beimen to of old Taipei’s wealthiest streets, as it and containing maps and photos of life in Banqiao is still plied underground by Tai- Yanping North Road connected Chengnei the old days. Returning to the North wan Railways and the MRT’s Blue Line. and Dadaocheng. Today it’s a very good Gate, we begin our counterclockwise Walking south on Zhonghua, we soon place to do some camera shopping. walk along the old wall. come to the Taipei Zhongshan Hall ( ), which was completed in 1936 to commemorate the 1928 ascension to the throne of Emperor Hirohito. It’s a beautiful building inside. As one might expect, the entrance faces east toward the rising sun, and is thus on Yanping South Road rather than on Zhonghua Road. Zhongshan Hall hosts many performances and also offers a and coffee shop. It was in this hall at the end of World War II that the last Japanese Governor-General of Taiwan, Ando Rikichi, surrendered to the ROC Supreme Commander’s Representative, General . President Chiang Kai- Shek occasionally made speeches from the balcony above the entrance. A few steps to the south from here is the former site of the West Gate (Ximen, ), the only gate destroyed by the Japanese. It connected Chengnei to Bangka via Cheng- The Futai Street Mansion, completed in 1910, is now a museum. du Road. The old gate is commemorated by

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 9

Wall.indd 9 2019/7/3 下午5:38 WALLED CITY WALKING TOUR

a modern artistic representation. The gate’s in 1946 and led the team that kept the lines once included camphor and opium. formal name was Baochengmen () – electricity flowing after Japan’s departure. Japanese-era remnants of some of the old “Gate of Precious Success.” Later as a Cabinet minister and eventually camphor and opium operations are just Just west of the gate is the Red House Premier, he was regarded as one of the south on Nanchang in what is now the (), built in 1908 as a place for major architects of Taiwan’s economic National Taiwan Museum–Nanmen Park socializing and enjoying the arts. It’s still a development, including a major role in (). theater, and its adjacent plaza is a popular creating the Science Park. Before At the back of the park is the White gathering place. The Red House is part of being sidelined by a stroke in 1984, he was Palace (), which was built of white the () neighborhood, considered to be the likely successor to stone in 1902 as a raw opium warehouse. which always seems to be abuzz with life as President Chiang Ching-kuo. Sun’s house is Records show that stones from the old a gathering place for the younger crowd. now a memorial to his life and career. Taipei wall were transported here and used Further south on the west side of Back at Aiguo West Road and heading in the building’s construction. The building Zhonghua is the Nishi Honganji Square ( east, the next stop is the South Gate or originally faced north. After restoration, ), the site of a former Japanese Nanmen (). This gate was considered it now again has a north entrance, and is temple. It’s now a park area with restored Chengnei’s main gate. Under traditional fronted by three camphor trees. Japanese-era buildings and the bell from Chinese design, walled cities generally Across the courtyard is a brick building the former temple. faced south toward the sun, and often were called the Red House (), not to be Returning to the east side of Zhonghua backed by a mountain to the north, which confused with Ximen’s Red House. This and heading south, we arrive at Aiguo in Taipei’s case is Qixing Mountain. The structure was formerly a warehouse for West Road and turn left to follow the old gate’s formal name is Lizhengmen () camphor, which for many years was one of south wall. – or “(Main) Gate of Beauty.” Taiwan’s major industries. The first floor Just south of the gate on Nanchang now has a café and a camphor museum South Wall (Aiguo W. Rd.) Road is the Taiwan Tobacco and Liquor that includes a Japanese-era documentary (TTL) Corp. () head- on Taiwan’s industries in the 1930s. Soon after turning onto Aiguo you’ll quarters, an elegant structure completed After returning to Aiguo West Road, see the Little South Gate, Xiaonanmen ( in 1913. TTL is a state-owned enterprise continue east and then turn left onto ). Like the East and South gates, it that was founded during the Qing Dynasty, to follow the old eastern underwent a facelift after World War II that and it’s been a cash generator ever since. wall. gave it a more ornate appearance compared Besides tobacco and liquor, its product to the original Manchu approach. The East Wall (Zhongshan S. Rd.) gate’s formal name is Zhongximen ( ) – “Gate of Abundant Prosperity.” Just across the road is the monumental This fifth gate was not in the original Chiang Kai-Shek Memorial Hall ( plans, but was added following pressure ). This expansive area of buildings from the Banqiao settlement. They and landscaped grounds was opened in apparently wished to avoid walking 1980 on the fifth anniversary of President through the area occupied by those pesky Chiang’s passing. It’s been one of Taiwan’s people near the West Gate. Clan rivalries most popular tourist venues ever since, seem to have been a common issue in old while also at times being a focal point of Taipei. political controversy. The Xiaonanmen MRT station exits Further north on Zhongshan, we reach are located between the Little South Gate the fifth and final gate, the East Gate or and the South Gate at the Boai Road Dongmen (). Its formal name is Jingfu- intersection. A short walk south on Boai men () – “Gate of Good Fortune.” Road leads to the lovely Taipei Botanical Across the street is the Evergreen Mari- Garden (). The Garden was time Museum (), originally established in 1896 as a nursery just one the (KMT) headquarters but year into the Japanese era. Its 8.2 hectares sold by the once wealthy party when it constitute something of a secret garden in began to run short of funds. The change in Taipei. Next door is the National Museum ownership of the property was considered of History (). a major event in Taiwan’s democratic tran- On the lane near the Gardens’ entrance, sition. The museum contains historic maps going east, is the interesting Sun Yun-Suan and maritime exhibits, most of them col- Memorial Museum ( • lected by the late Chang Yung-fa, founder ). Sun was a talented electrical engineer The headquarters of the Taiwan Tobac- of Taiwan’s largest shipping and transpor- who was sent to Taiwan from China co and Liquor Corp. tation group.

10 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Wall.indd 10 2019/7/3 上午5:56 WALLED CITY WALKING TOUR

Gazing east down provides an excellent view of the majestic Presidential Office Building ( ). Built in 1919 during the Japanese colonial period, like Zhongshan Hall it faces east toward the rising sun. Its final design was by Matsunosuke Moriyama, the architect responsible for many of Taipei’s historic buildings, including TTL’s offices. The building was originally the Office of the Taiwan Governor-General (Viceroy). Heavily damaged by Allied bombing in World War II, it was restored and subsequently became the offices of the President of the Republic of China. North of Ketagalan Boulevard and partly hidden by a wall is the (), which served as the Japanese Governor-General’s Residence. Construction started in 1899 and was completed in 1901. A renovation under Moriyama’s direction was carried out in 1912. The house and its beautiful grounds The stately Taipei Guesthouse, once the Japanese Governor-General's residence, is now used for diplomatic receptions. now serve as the venue for diplomatic receptions, and about once a month are opened for public tours. statues of Kodama and Goto. After World current building is large and functional, but West from the Guest House, past War II, the statues were removed and put we can capture a bit more romance if we Gongyuan Road (), is the Taipei 228 into storage. However, in 2015, on the harken back to days of old. Memorial Peace Park (). 100th anniversary of the museum, they In 1901, the Japanese completed a new The first park on this site was established were taken out of storage and placed on Taipei Train Station. It was just west of in 1900. Its current name refers to the 228 display on the third floor. This is arguably the current station and faced south down Incident that began on February 28, 1947 the museum’s most interesting floor, as it Guanqian Road (). Just across the and led to protests against the KMT gov- also has exhibits on Taiwan’s aboriginal road, on the current site of the Shin Kong ernment that took control of Taiwan after culture and animal life. Life Tower, was the grand Taiwan Railway World War II. From the park, walk down Changde Hotel () completed in 1908. The 228 Peace Park is home to two Street (), which is north of the 228 The beauty of this location was that you museums. The first one, at the southern Memorial Hall. On the left is the ornate could stand in front of the station, with the end, is the Taipei 228 Memorial Hall ( National Taiwan University Hospital luxurious hotel to your left, and look down ), located on the site of (West Site) ( fashionable Guanqian Road and see the a former government radio station. The ). Built in 1924, it’s still an active National Taiwan Museum facing you at the station was taken over by protestors during hospital. Continue east, then turn left onto other end of the boulevard. It’s still a nice the 228 uprising and used to broadcast Zhongshan South Road. view, and even better if you have an active opposition views. On the east side of Zhongshan at the imagination. Returning slowly from our The second museum, on the northern Zhongxiao West Road intersection is the reverie, we continue west toward Beimen end, is the National Taiwan Museum ( elegant () building. Square and our starting point. ). Taiwan’s oldest museum, the Completed in 1915, it originally was While we’ve walked only about five structure was completed in 1915, replacing the Taipei Prefecture Hall, another of kilometers in distance, we’ve also traversed one built in 1908. Its formal name at Moriyama’s projects. Once at Zhongxiao, 130 years of Taiwan history. The journey in one time, in honor of two early Japanese turn left to trace the old north wall. time began with an energetic Qing Dynasty leaders stationed in Taiwan, was the official, followed by the sudden ceding “Viceroy Kodama Gentaro and Minister North Wall (Zhongxiao W. Rd.) of Taiwan to Japan in 1895, liberation of Civilian Affairs Goto Shinpei Memorial after World War II, and then the conflicts Museum.” Goto was a progressive minister Zhongxiao West Road is a bustling area and joys, failures and successes, of one- who served in Taiwan from 1898 to 1906. tightly packed with buildings and people. party rule followed by the dawn of a new As you enter the museum, you’ll see The () domi- democracy. The area of the old wall has alcoves on both sides that originally held nates this part of the onetime wall. The seen a lot.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 11

Wall.indd 11 2019/7/3 下午5:29 LIVE MUSIC SCENE

shows under their belt, they could be one of the most sought-after acts on the island. Just put him in front of a micro- phone and watch him shine. Feel free to sing along or dance the night away, because there’s not much chance you’ll be able to stay in your seat.

Guitarist’s Thing for Swing

Lanny Waugh was named after Lanny Ross, his mother’s favorite musician and band leader in the 1930s and 40s. He’s been in Taipei over 30 years and formed almost as many bands: The Vespas, The , The Betel Nuts, Terry & GOOD CLEAN FUN The Tomcats, The Rhythm Kings, Blues Vibrations, The Wild Alibis, and The Flat WITH LIVE MUSIC Fives are those he can recall. Passing through a nearly equal num- ber of genres from Rock & Roll and IN TAIPEI Alternative Punk to Blues & Swing, two things have remained constant – his stel- lar musicianship and his congenial dis- position. Tasteful and skilled yet humble, Waugh says: “Music has always been a weekend thing and I just look forward to Some suggestions on where to go and BY JIM KLAR having an opportunity to play. Never saw the singers and bands you might hear. a reason to make it a job.” Self-employed as a technical writer, his current niche is jump blues and swing music. He’s found an active, receptive audience in the booming Taipei Swing t’s a night full of surprises – the good A Canadian Crooner Dancing Community. Go to one of their kind. You managed to overcome many events and you’ll probably find I your “worked-all-day, just finished- Brandon Thompson knows how to Waugh leading “The Flat Fives” through dinner” lethargy to head out into the night work a crowd. In English or Chinese, he their paces with a set of tunes picked spe- for a live band you’ve never seen before puts the show in showbiz as a talented cifically to keep things jumping. in a place you’ve never been. The venue is vocalist with a commanding stage pres- He’s happy to oblige these enthusias- comfy, the beverages are refreshing and the ence, wide vocal range, and depth of tic revelers because he feels the connec- band is tight. You even allow yourself to material from a variety of genres. And he tion between live musicians and dancers be dragged onto the dance floor and work has a stage wardrobe truly worthy of his seems to be at risk. “I remember 30 years up a sweat. Struck with the realization that front-man status. ago, people went to see live bands so you haven’t done this in too long, you vow That all comes in handy for the Cana- they could dance. Now most people only to do it more often. dian native who, except for part-time dance to DJs,” Waugh says. “I like these It’s no accident you enjoyed your- teaching gigs, supports himself here in swing dancers for keeping that experience self. Research shows that listening to Taipei as a singer and entertainer. After alive as I think that’s getting harder to and playing music keeps us happy by arriving in Taiwan 13 years ago to visit find these days.” lowering the stress hormone cortisol his father who married a Taiwanese and increasing the neurotransmitter woman, he fell in love with the place and Jug Band Waiting to Happen dopamine, an integral part of the brain’s decided to stay. pleasure-reward system. For a city of He can often be found fronting the Born in rural Ohio to Taiwanese par- 2.6 million, Taipei’s scene is remarkably four-piece band Adoga, formed with ents, David Chen grew up drawn to pre- lively and diverse. Here’s a look at some his longtime friend, band manager, and war blues and jazz, roots music, hillbilly of the people, places and events that keep drummer Slawek Kolodziej. Now with and bluegrass. His story is similar to that it jumping. over 1,800 weddings and corporate of many long-term residents. In 1997 he

12 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Music.indd 12 2019/7/3 上午5:57 LIVE MUSIC SCENE

was passing through Taipei and “just ended up stay- ing.” By 2003 he and friends with similar tastes had THE VENUES birthed an acoustic group called “The Muddy Basin Ramblers.” Here is a list of some of the places where you can catch a live act in Tai- Named for the “muddy basin” of Taipei and pei. Genre guidelines are roughly accurate. Most also have Facebook now 16 years and three CDs (one nominated for a pages but with URLS too long to list here. Grammy) further along, the seven-piece ensemble is a mainstay of the Taipei live music scene and Jazz the only band in it to feature a rhythm section of a 1. Sappho (www.sappholive.com): No. 1, Lane 102, Anhe Rd., Section 1, washboard and a home-made bass constructed from a washtub, broomstick, and “high-quality” camping Da’an , Taipei City 106, Tel: 02 2700 5411 rope. “It just seemed like a natural fit and everybody 2. Stunner: 2F, 1 Zhongshan N. Rd., Zhongshan District, Taipei City in our group agreed,” Chen says. “It was like we 10491. Tel: 02 2586 9909 were a jug band waiting to happen.” 3. Blue Note: 4F, 171 Roosevelt Rd., Section 3, Taipei City. Band Leader Chen fuses vintage American jazz Tel: 02 2362 2333 and swing with Taiwanese street performance to 4. Marsalis: 90 Songren Rd., Xinyi District, Taipei City 110. craft the band’s unique sound. “We’re very much an Tel: 02 8789 8166 acoustic band at heart, and our music is inspired by medicine show performers that were the precursor to Alternative/Indie vaudeville,” says Chen. “Taiwan actually has a simi- 1. The Wall: 200 Roosevelt Rd., Section 4, , Taipei City lar tradition within its folk art culture.” 116. Tel: 02 2930 0162 You’ll be hard-pressed to find a more Taiwanese 2. Witch House (www.witchhouse.org): No. 7, Lane 56, Xinsheng S. Rd., icon than Chiang Kai Shek Memorial Plaza where the band performed as part of the National Taiwan Section 3, Da’an District, Taipei City 106. Tel: 02 2362 5494 Concert Hall Summer Jazz Outdoor Party in 2017 3. Revolver (www.revolver.tw): 1-2 Roosevelt Rd., Section 1, before a capacity crowd of 10,000. Says Chen of the , Taipei City 100. Tel: 02 3393 1678 experience: “Whenever you play for a big crowd in 4. Pipe (www.pipelivemusic.com): 1 Siyuan St., Zhongzheng District, a Saturday night kind of mood, it’s a thrill. We were Taipei City 100. Tel: 02 2365 3524 chuffed to be able to spread the ‘Gospel of the Wash- tub Bass’ to so many people.” Eclectic 1. Ivy Palace: 368 Dihua St., Section 1, Datong District, Taipei City 103. Rising Sun Singer/Songwriter Tel: 02 2550 0015 2. Red Room (www.redroomtaipei.com): 106, 177 Jiangguo S. Rd., Vicky Sun’s parents spoke only Taiwanese and Section 1, Da’an District, Taipei City 106 English at home in Taipei and she attended an 3. Triangle: 1 Yumen Street, Zhongshan District, Taipei City 10491 “English only” school from the age of three. After (Inside Maji Square). Tel: 0933 449 874 attending boarding school in Pennsylvania starting in the 9th grade, Vicky continued studying abroad, gaining degrees in International Politics and French Lounge Literature at City’s Wagner College and a 1. Smexy (www.http://smexy.com.tw/): 131 Minsheng E. Rd., Section 3, Master’s in Business Administration. Songshan District, Taipei City 105. Tel: 02 2717 6626 She taught herself guitar for health reasons, as she 2. MIK6 (www.indianbartaipei.com): 1-1 Songjiang Rd., Zhongshan had picked up a tobacco habit and decided it was District, Taipei City 10510, Tel: 02 2500 6186 time to quit. “So every time I wanted a cigarette, I forced myself to learn a song,” she says. Rock & Blues Returning to Taiwan in 2015, Sun performed 1. James Joyce Irish Bar (www.irishbar.com.tw): 278 Roosevelt Rd., for the first time at a creative arts space called Red Section 3, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 100. Tel: 02 2368 7060 Room, but not before bolstering her courage with a 2. Bobwundaye (http://bobwundaye.blogspot.com): 77 Heping E. Rd., flask of Jim Beam. Bitten by the performance bug, Section 3, Da’an District, Taipei City 106. Tel: 02 2377 1772 she kept turning up solo around town at cafés and 3. Riverside Music Café (http://www.riverside.com.tw/): No. 2, Lane 244, small venues and wrote her first song two years later, a possibly autobiographical ditty called “Have a Roosevelt Rd., Section 3, Zhongzheng District, Taipei City 100. Nice Lay” about sex on the relationship rebound. Tel: 02 2368 7310 Sun’s relaxed, confident stage presence plus her 4. Oldie Goodie: 2F, 171 Roosevelt Rd., Section 3, Da’an District, Taipei vocal phrasing, timbre, and resonance pack a depth City 106. Tel: 02 2369 3686 of soul reminiscent of Billie Holiday and Amy Wine-

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 13

Music.indd 13 2019/7/3 上午5:57 LIVE MUSIC SCENE

David Chen (second from right) and the Muddy Basin Ramblers. PHOTO:COURTESY OF THE MUDDY BASIN RAMBLERS

Nomad’s first Opening Party, which was such a success it spawned a series of annual warehouse parties. Scanlan creat- ed the Tiger Mountain Ramble as an off- shoot of Daniel Pearl Day. Frazier knew a good site when he saw one and initiated the Urban Nomad Freakout soon after- wards. “I started the Ramble because I had a Onstage at the Tiger Mountain Ramble held each December at a former temple. lot of friends in bands and their families rarely got a chance to see them play,” house. Whether fronting a jazzy combo orchestrated riffs and breezy melody. explains Scanlan. “So I envisioned a fam- or alone with her guitar, she consistently Crooning retro love songs with a modern ily-friendly event featuring mostly local nails a unique sound that belies her 29 spin on English he learned from Sesame bands along with one or two imports, years. Street and Nu-Metal music, guitarist and with musicians performing on real instru- With a now burgeoning reputation on vocalist Tseng Kuo-hung revels in the ments while the kids get a chance to run the Taipei music scene as both a vocalist freedom the language imparts. “English around.” and a singer/songwriter, she’s in the midst gives me freedom and makes me feel like The day-long celebration goes off rain of recording her first album of originals. I’m a unicorn, like I’m flying in a sea of or shine, which in December in Taipei Expect to hear more about her soon. imagination,” he said in a recent inter- can be a gamble. But experienced attend- view with Paste Magazine. ees can handle the elements and those in Breakthrough from the Inside Both bands have released several CDs the know regularly rate TMR as one of and toured extensively in Asia, , the best festivals in Taiwan. Two bands that spawned from an and the U.S and are, as Lee assured me, The Urban Nomad Freakout aims for underground music scene characterized “good friends” in spite of being polar a more global perspective and every year by Taipei’s now defunct Underworld opposites. pushes the boundaries with an eclectic venue in the Shida neighborhood, Sun- assembly of musicians, performance art- rise Rollercoaster and 88 Balaz, could Ramble to a Freakout ists, and circus acts on three stages. With serve as Yin and Yang for the local music the expressed purpose of inviting the best, scene. While both have achieved critical Take one beautiful outdoor venue. weirdest, and most outrageous under- success and recognition here and abroad, Add two music event organizers with ground and indie musical acts to Taiwan, they could not be more different. slightly different perspectives. Fold in Frazier continues to impress and amaze Loud, simplistically aggressive and dozens of local and imported musical tal- audiences during the two-day event. refreshingly irreverent, 88 Balaz sounds ent. Mix well and serve up two distinctly This year the festival featured per- like an explosion of Rock & Roll rebel- different festivals with some common ele- formers from five countries (Japan, lion. Frontman Balaz Lee shouts lyrics in ments but very different flavors. , Canada, U.S., and Taiwan) and – Chinese over crashing guitar riffs, throb- The Tiger Mountain venue is a beauti- including two warm-up events and one bing bass, and driving drums while the ful former temple in a forest near Taipei afterparty – a total of about 2,000 people audience devolves into a Taiwanese mosh City owned by the Miculture Foundation. attended. Some flew into Taipei just for pit. Lee describes their sound as “blues Big enough but not too large, tucked out the festival. notes with the rhythm of punk rock.” of the way in the mountains but not too Whatever your musical taste and no When I say they remind me of the Jon far, it hosts the Urban Nomad Freakout matter how often it changes, the live- Spencer Blues Explosion, he erupts: “My each April and the Tiger Mountain Ram- music scene in Taipei is like the food favorite!” ble (TMR) each December. The events’ choices at a Taiwanese night market. Meanwhile six-piece Sunrise Roller- respective organizers – David Frazier and There is something for everyone, but not coaster are masters of the other end of Sean Scanlan – were once co-conspirators all of it looks or smells inviting. But you the spectrum. Their uplifting jazzy synth- in the Urban Nomad Film Festival. don’t mind taking a risk. Otherwise you pop is a layered mélange of cute, tightly In 2008, they launched Urban wouldn’t be living here, would you?

14 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Music.indd 14 2019/7/3 上午5:57 ADVERTORIAL

Since Regent Taipei has multiple high- end and banquet spaces that can accommodate weddings, choosing a wedding banquet venue at the Wedding Salon couldn't be more convenient. “With regards to retail shopping, Regent Taipei has been paying care- ful attention to the tastes of discerning shoppers, and with their needs in mind, designed a bespoke shopping service,” Reimagining Luxury Retail Wu says. “Some of the biggest spenders in Taiwan want to keep a low profile. They do not want people to see them at Regent Taipei making purchases of expensive luxury goods, so we take their orders and do he Regent Taipei has long been raise their international visibility. the shopping for them right here,” he known as one of the capital’s The first brand to be launched by explains. T finest hotels and dining spots, this collaboration is the Tsubaki Salon, Regent Galleria has an exclusive as well as a top destination for luxury featuring Hokkaido's famous thick and “Reading Room” where customers retail. Now the hotel is expanding its fluffy pancakes. The delicious pancakes can relax with some afternoon tea and retail selection to provide guests with are notable for their premium flour and pastries while a staff member purchases a more distinctive experience, offer- dairy ingredients directly imported from their items. Once the goods are ing everything from gourmet Hokkaido Hokkaido, while featuring a nod to purchased, they are delivered discreetly pancakes to seminars with celebrities to Taiwan tastes with some locally sourced to the customer in the Reading Room. bespoke private shopping. premium ingredients like mango and Another unique retail concept is the “A key advantage for Regent pineapple. Regent Academy Elite Salon, where Taipei is that it can deploy the massive “The pancakes at the Tsubaki Salon celebrities and designers share their resources of a five-star hotel in its are so popular that people wait for experiences with guests. At the inaugu- ,” says Managing Direc- three to four hours on the weekend to ral Elite Salon in December, the guest of tor Simon Wu. “We’re the only mall have a taste,” Wu says. Yet with the honor was the internationally renowned in Taipei with this capability, and it wide variety of retail shopping outlets fashion designer Daniel Wong, known elevates what we can offer in terms of at Regent Galleria, they don’t have to for his avant-garde design work retail compared to the typical high-end stand in line, guests browse the shops inspired by his experience working with shopping center.” in the Galleria leisurely until their Alexander McQueen and Versace. Recognizing that guests’ shopping pancakes are ready. Finally, Regent Taipei is not only habits have changed over the years, Another new concept at Regent rejuvenating its offerings at Regent Regent Taipei is focusing on offer- Galleria is the Wedding Salon, which is Galleria, it is also exporting its award- ing unique experiences that can only visited by 3,000 couples per year when winning beef noodles to Japan. The be found under one roof. Paramount they’re considering a venue for wedding local delicacy is being featured on the to this concept is the Regent Taipei’s celebrations. Designed as a one-stop menu at Tsutaya book store, largest partnership with Japan’s H.I.S. Group, service for weddings, the Wedding branch in ’s Shibuya district. one of the largest Japanese travel agen- Salon offers everything required for “Our mission is to bring the best in cies. Together, Regent Taipei and H.I.S. the occasion, from wedding attire to the world to Taiwan and bring Taiwan's Group will bring outstanding Japanese photography services and catering. best to the world,” Wu says. retail concepts to Galleria that ordinar- ily are not found outside of Japan. The brands involved are artisans interested in exploring markets outside of Japan, but because of their modest scale lack the ability to do so on their own. Regent Taipei is ideally positioned to work with H.I.S. in this capacity because of its deep experience with the Japanese market – 40% of the Regent Taipei’s guests are Japanese. Because of Taiwan’s affinity for Japanese culture Regent Taipei and H.I..S. Strategic Partnership — (From Left) Tsubaki Salon and Regent Galleria’s reputation for Representative Mr. Hiromu Hasegawa, H.I.S. JAPAN Director Vice President Mr. high-end retail, the brands will be well Atsushi Yamanobe, Silks Hotel Group Chairman Mr. Steven Pan, Regent Taipei positioned to attract new business and Managing Director Mr. Simon Wu

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 15

Regent avertorial.indd 15 2019/7/3 上午5:57 COFFEE CULTURE

TAIPEI’S COFFEE CRAZE

STORY AND PHOTOS Specialty coffee shops have sprung up on nearly every street corner BY MATTHEW FULCO in recent years. Can they thrive in a traditional tea-drinking culture?

obody seems quite sure when brewed brands a few years ago. Trade Commission data. Convenience Taipei’s love affair with special- “If you’re trying to sell food or drink stores are keen on coffee because its gross N ty coffee shops began. The pio- to the mass market in Taiwan, conve- margin of 50% is the highest of any neers have been around for more than a nience stores have the best distribution product category they sell. FamilyMart decade: Woolloomooloo, Rufous Coffee, channels – they’re everywhere,” says earned NT$3 billion in revenue in 2017 and of course Cama, which has more than Benny Ho, president of Cama Coffee. As from its “Let's Café” freshly brewed cof- 120 stores in Taiwan and has mastered of the end of 2017, Taiwan had 10,662 fee brand, Taiwan’s Central News Agency the art of selling good coffee at a competi- convenience stores, roughly one for every reported last October. tive price to cost-conscious Taiwanese 2,211 people, according to government With their vast resources, the con- consumers. To date, it is one of the few data. Only has a higher con- venience stores can invest for the long- local chains that can make that claim. venience store density. run in mass-market coffee as a profitable Most Taipei coffee shops are small Additionally, even if the coffee sold business. But for individual coffee shops, independent businesses. There are hun- by the convenience stores isn’t premium especially those selling premium coffee, dreds of them throughout the city, many quality, the price is right, Ho says. A cup margins are nowhere near as high. with expert baristas who do all the roast- of freshly brewed black coffee at 7-Elev- “This isn’t a business you enter to ing in-house. To say coffee enthusiasts are en, Taiwan’s largest convenience store become rich. It’s more about a passion for spoiled for choice in Taipei is an under- chain, costs just NT$35-$50. At Fami- roasting coffee and teaching people how statement. lyMart, the No. 2 chain, an Americano is to enjoy coffee,” says Chu Ya-ta, owner Veterans of the café business here say just NT$25-$45. of Oasis Coffee Roasters in Taipei’s that ’ arrival in the late 1990s Fresh coffee sales rose 17% annually Da’an district and a former barista at helped popularize coffee nationwide, but in 2017 – the most recent year for which Rufous Coffee. He likens speciality cof- that most Taiwanese didn’t start to drink statistics are available – to NT$16 billion fee shops to fine dining, characterized by it daily until convenience stores began (US$520 million) at Taiwan’s five con- pricy ingredients, laborious preparation, heavily promoting their own freshly venience store chains, according to Fair and limited sales volume.

16 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

coffee.indd 16 2019/7/3 下午5:32 COFFEE CULTURE

Still, many local entrepreneurs are undeterred. Jack Lo, general manager and senior partner of the Cafeist, which has three outlets in Taipei, sees economic factors behind the coffee-shop boom. He says that the Taiwanese economy never truly recovered from the Great Recession of 2008-2009. He has a point. Taiwan was a fast-growing economy as late as 2007, when GDP expanded by 6.5%. Growth plummeted after that, averaging just 2.7% from 2008 to 2017. With wages stagnant, the idea of being one’s own boss – always an integral part of Taiwanese business culture – is more attractive than ever. Lo worked for years in an agency that prepares students for overseas study before founding the Cafeist with a group of investors in 2011. “Taiwan’s always had lots of specialty drink shops – we just focused more on tea in the past,” he says. “Coffee isn’t too much of a jump.” Lo isn’t overly concerned about the proliferation of look-alike coffee shops in Taipei. “This is a free market. We have to accept it,” he says, while adding that he earns about US$30 a day, compared expects underperforming coffee shops to to US$1 in Ethiopia, The South China close “in a year or two, when their leases Morning Post reported in January. are up.” Even if one has a good coffee sup- Yang Bozhi, who founded Rufous in plier, in the wrong hands the beans will 2007, says that some people may enter go to waste. Since coffee beans are fragile the coffee business without realizing what by nature, the roasting process requires they’re getting into. “It might look easy finesse, dexterity, and lots of patience. because of the low barrier to entry,” he Slight differences in roasting temperature says. “You can open with NT$1 million or roasting time (just 10-20 seconds), to NT$2 million in startup capital and can have a big affect on how coffee tastes a retail space, but operating it well is when it’s brewed. another story.” Taiwan’s intense heat and humidity Indeed, sourcing good beans can be pose particular challenges to local baris- a challenge unto itself. Like grapes used tas. To prevent mold and other fungus to make wine, coffee beans are differ- growth, coffee beans should remain in ent every year, affected by changes in the a climate-controlled environment, Yang weather. They’re almost entirely sourced says. Controlling humidity helps ensure from tropical regions along the equator, that the beans maintain the right the running from Latin America to Africa and moisture content and flavor profiles. . Many growers harvest coffee just once annually. Coffee is harvested by picking coffee cherries and removing the To each his own seeds of the fruit – the beans. In a café market as competitive as Taiwan does produce a small amount Taipei’s, it’s hard to stand out. Yet each of of coffee domestically on the private the coffee shop owners Taiwan Business plantations of Ali Mountain in Chiayi TOPICS interviewed highlighted the dis- Beano enjoying a cup of Cama coffee. County, but high labor costs generally tinctive nature of his outlet and brand. In make it too expensive for the local mar- Cama’s case, president Benny Ho decided ket. A coffee cherry picker in Taiwan early on that he wanted to focus on the

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 17

coffee.indd 17 2019/7/3 上午5:58 COFFEE CULTURE

Oasis is a relaxed and comfortable place to have a coffee.

coffee, not food or atmosphere. seating, and they don’t need a kitchen or yet affordable coffee. He notes that Aus- Cama’s mission from the beginning facilities to store food. The lower over- tralia is one of the few developed econo- has been to provide fresh coffee to con- head makes the operation much more mies where independent coffee shops sumers and cultivate roasting expertise economical. have prevailed over Starbucks. among its barista team, Ho says. Cama is The Louisa brand, which has hundreds One way Woolloomooloo distin- the first and only Taiwanese coffee shop of sit-down outlets throughout Taiwan guishes its coffee is with a slightly lighter franchise to roast nearly all of its beans and offers a variety of pre-made food, roast than the big brands use. Starbucks, on the premises of each individual store. has a different strategy. Its coffee roasting for instance, sells Sumatran dark roasts Cama was also among the first suc- is centralized, so franchisees need not be in high volume, having perhaps been cessful local coffee brands. The company baristas. Food is a big part of the Louisa influenced by founder Howard Schulz, a sells its own branded coffee beans at all experience. The company invested NT$60 big fan of Indonesian coffee. A good dark of its retail outlets, as well as pre-ground million in a new food production facil- roast from Sumatra usually has a pleasant coffee in individual drip bags. It even has ity last year, according to the Chinese- earthy taste, maybe with some hints of a mascot, Beano, a white anthropomor- language Commonwealth Magazine. chocolate, but not too much else. phic coffee bean. Life-size plastic figures “Louisa is becoming like a local “When you roast lighter, the natural of Beano can be found outside every breakfast shop, but featuring coffee,” Ho flavors of the beans, the fruits, the acids, Cama shop, usually seated on a wooden says. “It’s competing with a lot of tradi- it’s all more apparent,” Yang says. “You bench, wearing an expression of serenity. tional breakfast stores.” don’t want to roast beans too darkly for The message is clear: With a good cup of For its part, Jimmy Yang’s Wool- the same reason you don’t want to over- coffee, Beano has found happiness. And loomooloo has long sold high-quality cof- cook fresh vegetables.” he’s just waiting for patrons to snap a fee alongside food, but in an Australian- When coffee beans are over-roasted, selfie with him. style café setting sometimes described “they taste like charcoal, like carbon,” he Beano has that endearing cuteness, as a “gastropub” because of its eclectic says. or kawaii, that the Japanese pioneered menu, which includes tasty preparations Lighter roasts may also be healthier, and Taiwanese consumers like. And the of everything from salads and thin-crust according to a 2017 study published idea is pretty original. The coffee indus- pizza to Vietnamese spring rolls and Thai in the Journal of Medicinal Food from try hasn’t had many anthropomorphic curries. Korea. The study, which analyzed four mascots. To find something similar, we’d The newest Woolloomooloo outlet is different coffee roasts ranging from have to go back to the 1980s and Bud something different – a take-out coffee light to dark (French roast), found that Light’s Spuds MacKenzie, the loveable shop on Songjiang Road in Taipei’s cen- the light roast had the highest levels of beer-drinking bull terrier. Spuds certainly tral business district. The many nearby chlorogenic acid, a phenolic compound helped sell beer and Beano is doing the office workers now have a new alterna- believed to help control blood sugar lev- same for coffee. tive to Starbucks. els and reduce inflammation. For a customer experience purely Yang grew up in Melbourne, a city Woolloomooloo is also known for its about coffee, Cama’s strategy makes known for its vibrant café culture, where cold drip coffee, a technique for coffee- sense. Its stores are tiny, with little or no he says he was spoiled by the excellent making that uses no heat. Instead, ice Subscriptions

18 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

coffee.indd 18 2019/7/3 上午5:58 COFFEE CULTURE

water gradually drips over freshly ground nese, English, and Japanese. It’s the kind coffee through a “drip tower” typically of place patrons can come and stay for made of three glass vessels. The process hours, whether they’re chatting, reading, is time consuming, taking anywhere from or working from their laptops. 3.5 to 12 hours. “There’s so much competition in Tai- “It's an extravagant way to extract pei that you really need to make your coffee, and results in a very refined coffee shop unique to attract enough taste,” Yang says. business,” Chu says. “If people are going Less fancy but equally delicious is to come and sit down in your shop, they Oasis Coffee Roasters’ Shakelatto (the want more than just a beverage.” name is a rejiggering of the Italian word Overall, coffee-shop owners in Taipei caffe shakerato), a double shot of iced remain wary of market saturation but espresso shaken to a froth over ice. It sanguine about the interest of Taiwanese has the pick-me-up pleasure of a double consumers in coffee. Yang of Rufous Cof- espresso, but the ice takes off a bit of the fee Roasters finds that his patrons have a edge. It’s more refreshing than jarring. genuine curiosity about coffee apprecia- Oasis prides itself on offering excellent tion absent in years past. coffee in a relaxed atmosphere, owner “When I first opened [in 2007], peo- Chu says. “If you take yourself too seri- ple would order a black coffee from me, ously, you create distance with the cus- and then load it up with milk and sugar,” tomers.” he says. “Many customers found the taste While Oasis isn’t large, it’s comfort- of black coffee too bitter.” able and well laid out. There is ample Today, “Taiwanese are more interested seating, including bar-style seats and large in how coffee tastes – the characteristics A Cold Drip coffee at Woolloomooloo. tables, none too far from an electrical of the different beans and preparation outlet. Wi-Fi is gratis. There are all kinds techniques,” he says. “People ask me to of magazines to peruse – about coffee, introduce them to something good and lifestyle, arts and entertainment, in Chi- they drink it as is.”

TOPICS can be found in the Eslite, Kingstone, Caves and Hess bookstores in Taipei, Taichung and Kaohsiung. But why wait until we’re on the stands? Make sure of getting a copy by filling in the subscription form below.

Fill out this form and post or fax to 886-2-2718-8182 with your payment or receipt. AmCham will begin your subscription upon receipt of payment.

Taiwan q1 year = NT$1,500 q2 years = NT$2,700 Elsewhere in Asia q1 year = US$75 q2 years = US$140 HK/PRC q1 year = US$68 q2 years = US$130 USA/Europe q1 year = US$90 q2 years = US$170

Name: ______Membership ID#: (if applicable)______

Company: ______Telephone: ______

Mailing address:______

Email Address: ______qBill to Account (members only) qAMEX qMaster qVISA qCheck qTelegraphic Transfer

Credit card number: ______Cardholder’s name: ______

Expiration date: ______Total amount (NT$/US$): ______

Signature: ______Date: ______

• Please make checks payable to: American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei • Please direct telegraphic transfers to: American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei • Acct. #: 018-1-093665-6 Standard Chartered Bank, Tunpei Branch (Please fax your transfer receipt to AmCham.) Subscriptions

American Chamber of Commerce in Taipei Tel : 886-2-2718-8226 E-mail: [email protected]

coffee.indd 19 2019/7/3 上午5:58 QIPAO

ONE WOMAN’S QUEST FOR A QIPAO

The classic garment is elegant and evocative of traditional Chinese BY KATHY CHEN culture. But do you need the figure of a professional model to carry off wearing one?

s a Chinese-American, I have . “Uh, when my kids get restaurant in a historic, Japanese-style always loved wearing a qipao married?” I said. building, included a chance to pose for a A for special occasions. But after When the tailor learned my oldest was professional photographer before dinner. having four kids and living the diplomatic in college, he told me to come back in a I donned a below-the-knee number that high life in Taiwan for three years, I could decade. Meanwhile, I could stick with the I had bought years before – and which only squeeze into the traditional Chinese half-dozen qipao I already owned. unfortunately splashed a big red flower dresses I owned if I refrained from eating To be sure, there’s an art to wear- right across my middle. – or even breathing. ing qipaos, which are also known as Annie, who wore a full-length gown It was obviously time to invest in a cheongsams, and more art to posing for colored with geometric patterns from new qipao. The challenge was to find one photos in them. At Panapina, a boutique her collection of 150 qipaos, pulled that would make me look poised, not tucked in an alley behind Taipei’s most- me in front of the photo umbrellas in three months’ pregnant. Given my mom famous soup dumpling restaurant, I tried the hall. “Put one foot forward. Suck bod and the nature of the outfit – with on two off-the-racks: one in businesslike in your stomach. Pull your shoulders its form-fitting cut, high Mandarin collar, checkers on baby blue and another in a back,” she said. and slits up the sides – it seemed like an demure cream-colored silk. I tried to obey her commands, but impossible task. As I desperately sucked in my the photographer frowned. “Try to look My friend Jerri So, who wears a qipao stomach, shop owner Daisy Liang more natural,” he said. daily after developing an addiction to showed me how to sit properly. “Hitch Afterward, Annie and I sipped pink the Chinese garb, insisted it was doable. up the fabric a little and perch on the wine fizzies as members of the associa- “You just have to find the right one,” she edge of the chair, or your butt will spread tion trickled in. Most of them showed up said. out. And don’t cross your legs.” in street clothes and changed into their Buoyed by her faith, I set out in search Jerri liked the baby blue one, but qipaos in the bathroom. “We encourage of the perfect qipao, a quest that had I could barely move and I was having people to wear qipaos outside, but some- me visiting fashion shoots and shops, trouble inhaling. “The other one does times it’s not practical if they’re coming scholars and a university collection, show your stomach,” she admitted. from work or taking the ,” she and ultimately a master tailor who has My qipao fashion shoot didn’t go sighed. clothed the crème of Taiwan society. much better. Annie Chen, chairman of After taking over as president in 2017, He wasn’t convinced I needed a new the Taiwan-based Chinese Cheongsam Annie set up the Chinese Cheongsam qipao at all. “When do you plan to wear Association, often sets up catwalk classes, World Federation to build ties with qipao it?” he said. lectures, and other activities to teach organizations in other countries, including Though I’d attended plenty of galas as the group’s 100-plus members – mostly China, South Korea, and even Mongolia a diplomatic spouse in Taiwan, including middle-aged women – how to properly and the Czech Republic. She says she a number decked out in a qipao, we were inhabit their qipao. recently helped facilitate the establishment about to leave the island to return to the The June 2018 event, held at a of a qipao association in Hawaii.

20 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 qipao.indd 20 2019/7/3 上午6:00 QIPAO

“Any group with 15 people can set the qipao’s most glamorous champion and fancied up with embroidery, fur, and up a branch under us, and we’ll provide was Soong Mei-ling, wife of the late a vast array of hand-sewn knot buttons US$10,000 to help cover costs,” she said. President Chiang Kai-shek. She appeared (known as pankou) and colored borders. everywhere in a qipao, wowing in an Kao pointed to the piping running elegant black model during her address to along the front of Jerri’s -made Historical evolution the U.S. Congress in 1943. qipao. “You shouldn’t be able to see the Introduced to China by the Manchus The rise of a unique Taiwanese stitching,” she tutted. Rather, she said, in the 17th century, the qipao originated identity in recent years has caused the tailor should have left extra fabric as a baggy, unisex robe that symbolized some Taiwanese to reject the qipao as the length of the borders that would at women’s liberation. Evolutions in style a national costume, however, just as the end be ironed over the stitches to transformed it into its current figure- they scorn ’s continued claim to cover them. hugging form, which hit its heyday in the island – and even as China proudly “So how does the tailor hide your 1920s Shanghai. The garment saw a promotes the qipao after decades of stomach?” I asked, staring at the single, decline in popularity in the following labeling it bourgeois. Taiwan President flat panel of fabric that made up the front. decades due to shifting politics and Tsai Ing-wen, for one, tends to favor “Find Master Hsu,” Kao said. “It’s his fashion trends emphasizing casualness pantsuits, usually in black or navy. special skill.” and comfort. For me, the politics of the qipao didn’t matter. I just wanted one that would fit. In recent years, the traditional Chinese The way of the Master dress has seen a resurrection of sorts. A visit to Fu Jen Catholic University’s In China, many restaurants have made Chinese Clothing and Culture Center It turned out that Master Hsu was qipaos the uniform for waitresses, while underscored how exacting an art it is to the same tailor who had rebuffed me online marketplace Taobao has a chat produce a well-made dress. over the phone earlier, and it took a lot group devoted to qipao aficionados. Slipping on a pair of white gloves, of begging before he would even see us. In April last year, the qipao garnered collection caretaker Kao Fu-lin led Jerri After he finally agreed – “I’ll answer international attention when an American and me into the center’s climate-con- your questions, but I don’t need to make high schooler wore a red-and-gold floor- trolled storeroom. The vast majority of you a qipao” – Jerri and I found him lengther to her prom, sparking an online the thousand-plus qipaos were donations measuring a swath of pink fabric in an firestorm over the issue of cultural from Taiwan, but a few were purchased atelier in Taipei’s old shopping district appropriation. from China and two had belonged to of Ximending. The cramped sixth-floor In Taiwan these days, qipaos mostly Madame Soong. room was filled with photos, dresses, and constitute special-occasion attire, Contrary to my assumption that tra- antique sewing machines. making appearances at weddings and ditional qipaos were all cut from Chinese Hsu Rong-I, a gnomish 75-year-old graduations, though the garment has a silk, the dresses in the university collec- sporting a frizzy halo of gray hair and a select and enthusiastic following. At the tion were also made from wool, satin, Mandarin-collar shirt, has been sewing Chinese Cheongsam Association dinner, and lace, with long sleeves and short, qipaos for nearly 60 years. He remem- Jane Wei, a 60-ish grandmother and electronics company boss, danced in a forest-green dress with red frog buttons that matched the flowers in her hair. “People here don’t know I’m a boss,” she said. “I can show off a different side of myself.” Julie Chien, wife of former Taiwan foreign minister Fredrick Chien, wears qipaos to official luncheons and dinners, as well as private events such as birthday parties. “For me, the qipao is an elegant, simple, and easy-to-wear national costume,” she says. After the Nationalists lost the against the Communists, the retreating government officials and their families brought the qipao culture with them to Taiwan. Many Taiwanese women who married mainlanders adopted The author, second from the right, with fellow members of Taipei's Chinese the Chinese dress for daily wear, but Cheongsam Association at a 2018 event.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 21

7 qipao.indd 21 2019/7/3 上午6:00 QIPAO

Master Hsu settled in to work. He had ironed and ironed a half-finished qipao, using the heat and steam to stretch and shrink the panel of red lace to create the subtle curves that made his dresses fit so well. To his exacting eye, the fabric wasn’t hanging right. He would have to take it apart and redo it. “I’d like to retire, but who can do that?” he said. He had tried taking on apprentices so he could pass down his craft, he said, but sooner or later they quit – either because the work was too hard or they couldn’t take his constructive criticism. When the tailor himself was an apprentice, he had slept on the workbench and run errands and cooked before he was even allowed to start learning the trade. “Now you say something, and they complain you’re yelling at them,” he said. “How are they supposed to learn?” Ten days later, as promised, my dress was ready. Master Hsu had modernized the traditional green print with a double Above, Master Hsu ensures a proper fit. Below, wearing the qipao at a diplomatic border of white and Kelly green, and a event in Taipei. pair of frog buttons to match. “You wore the same bra, right?” he asked. I slipped on the qipao and stepped out bers when sales were so good that he a few measurements, he said the dress I in front of the mirror. and the other tailors in their shop had to had on was too binding at the waist to “That looks amazing,” Jerri said. finish two dresses a day to keep up with take proper measurements, and anyway, Master Hsu unceremoniously yanked orders, which sometimes meant staying he had a doctor’s appointment. “You up the fabric of my dress. “Good! You up all night. don’t need a new qipao,” he repeated, can go to the bathroom,” he announced. Business slowed for most qipao shooing us out. He made me walk, turn around, sit tailors after Taiwan’s economy took off I returned the next day, but Master down, and declared the qipao was done. in the 1980s and more people adopted Hsu still wasn’t satisfied. “What kind And it fit perfectly, the heavy green silk Western-style clothes. But Master Hsu’s of undergarment are you wearing?” flowing with the shape of my body, garments have remained in high demand, he demanded again, after repeatedly without showing any stomach while despite his discouragement to would-be measuring and re-measuring my front. allowing me to breathe. customers (“I’m too tired,” he says) and He snorted when I told him it was a “What if I lose weight?” I said. Back steep prices (upwards of US$300, fabric strapless Victoria’s Secret. “Didn’t I tell home I wouldn’t be drinking endless not included). you not to wear that kind? You need glasses of red wine and nibbling on bread Jerri immediately recognized the fine straps to look perky.” He sent me home smeared with butter at official dinners. craftsmanship of the completed qipaos again. “Don’t worry. Qipaos look better a that were hanging from the ceiling rack. On my third trip, he finally got the little loose,” Master Hsu said. And he “I love this,” she cooed over a violet two dozen measurements he needed, in turned back to the next dress he was qipao with a fancy border design. between turning away a couple of phone working on. The tailor unfurled the green silk I’d requests from would-be customers. He brought with me. “Are you sure you suggested a relatively high collar, which — Kathy Chen is a former reporter for want one made? Are you wearing the he said would make my neck look longer. the Wall Street Journal, where she was right undergarments?” It was nearly six p.m., and Master part of a team that won a Pulitzer Prize. He’d told me over the phone to wear Hsu’s partner, who hails from the same She is married to Kin Moy, the former a new bra because I’d always have to part of China as he does and had trained Director of the American Institute wear the same one with his qipao to get under the same mainland Chinese tailor, in Taiwan. the best fit. I nodded. But after taking tidied up and left.

22 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 qipao.indd 22 2019/7/3 上午6:00

RELIGIOUS TOURS

FIND YOUR WORK-LIFE BALANCE

PHOTO: ORIGIN YOGA & WELLNESS

Taiwan offers a wealth of options for helping to improve wellness and BY JULES QUARTLY mindfulness.

n many countries, religious and spiri- quasi-religious festivals throughout the year. est number of adherents, the reality is that tual retreats have become a counter- Article 13 of the Constitution guar- Buddhist practice there is usually in a state- I weight to the relentless march of prog- antees freedom of religious belief, and controlled setting and can be quite com- ress and materialism. The trend is espe- in practice this means about 82% of the mercial, with monks offering prayers or cially evident in Taiwan, which is known population is affiliated with some religious rites for money at some temples. for being a beacon of religious freedom and organization or another. Most believe in a The “Four Great Mountains” of Tai- one of the world’s centers for mixture of Buddhism, Confucianism, and wan refer to the country’s four major and meditation. Daoism, a syncretic embrace of tradition Buddhist organizations: Drum Temple stays, yoga retreats, and mind- and new ideas. The welcome (prayer) mat Mountain (), ( fulness centers are among the many options is also rolled out for Muslims, and this ), Foundation (), available to seekers of solace or enlighten- year Taiwan was ranked as the third most and Chung Tai Shan (). The found- ment. The cost of an alternative lifestyle attractive destination worldwide by the ers of these institutions are often referred to sojourn is generally reasonable, even free if Global Muslim Travel Index. as the “Four Heavenly Kings.” you choose not to donate, and in the pro- “Taiwan is a really beautiful beacon World Cen- cess of discovering some lesser-known part for religious freedom,” according to the ter for Buddhist Education is about an of Taiwan, you may even discover some- U.S. Commissioner on International Reli- hour’s drive from central Taipei, towards thing new about yourself. gious Freedom, Nadine Maenza, who the north coast and then up a mountain One of Taiwan’s myriad charms is the attended the International Conference on shaped like a drum (hence its name). ability of its people to maintain an equi- Religious Freedom held in May in the city Arrive by car and you will be ushered librium between the old and new, tech and of Hsinchu. through a series of checkpoints toward tradition. It is in this space that religion Along with , Japan, and India, a set of modern buildings that includes flourishes and retains its central position in birthplace of the Buddha, Taiwan can claim a main hall, meditation hall, and memo- the lives of most Taiwanese, who regularly to be one of the world’s great centers for rial halls, plus a number of administrative pray for divine intervention or take part in Buddhism. While China boasts the larg- buildings and dormitories for the nuns and

24 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

religious.indd 24 2019/7/3 上午6:00 RELIGIOUS TOURS

monks. The 25-ton bronze Lotus Bell tolls smartphone inattentive times. Dharma Drum’s International Medita- during important ceremonies. “The advantages of meditation for tion Group was started in 1994 after an There’s also an underground “palace” modern people, with mobile devices, is that American lawyer living in Taipei suggested beneath the main hall for storing relics, we learn to become aware of our body and the idea to Master Sheng Yen of meditation but on the instruction of Dharma Drum mind and where they are and what they are retreats for Westerners. Since that time the founder Master Sheng-yen (), who doing,” Chang Ji says. “The first step is to organization’s Nung Chan Temple in Beitou passed on in 2009, it won’t open for anoth- learn how to feel the body, notice any pain has been running beginners’ and one-day er 80 years. Beside the small museum is an (such as from bad posture) or emotion and retreats, which continue to this day. open-plan cafeteria, where meals are taken make the body relax, to change using the Among the three other “Great Moun- in complete silence. The temple complex phone into something done mindfully.” tains” of Buddhist thought in Taiwan, Fo is open to visitors without charge daily Chang Ji talks about fixating on hap- Guang Shan is arguably the between 9 a.m. and 4 p.m. piness and how this almost drives it away. most active in popularizing its message of Based on traditional , She says there are no shortcuts to medita- peace and spiritual discovery. Founded in a Chinese system developed from the 6th tion – the point is the doing and the prac- 1967 by the now 91-year-old ( century onward, Zhonghua Dharma tice. “People really do need to learn how ), it promotes “,” Drum consolidates a variety of Buddhist to get on with themselves. With modern which is outward looking, fully engaged teachings into what was a new school of people there is more technology compared with the modern world, and famed for its thought. It emphasizes gaining knowledge with, say, 10 years ago, and this means adoption of technology, such as holograms of self in order to understand others, and more obstacles, diversions and distrac- that make the Buddha appear to float. letting go of attachments to find wisdom tions, more things to spend our time on, This has led to claims that it is too through meditation. As Master Sheng Yen like music, videos, games. But what this commercialized, but its considerable polit- put it: “If moment by moment you can also means is we spend less time with other ical influence and numerous charitable keep your mind clear, then nothing will people, even ourselves. So, this is why we programs have embedded it in Taiwan confuse you.” are not in touch with our minds or our society. Its simplified approach to Bud- We are greeted with a bow by the Ven- bodies and this is what meditation can dhist teachings and adoption of modern erable Chang Ji, a spry and well-spoken help with.” marketing techniques has also enabled it nun who shows us around the campus. “The material world is very rich, but in to have a presence in more than 50 coun- Originally from , she leads one- the end, this is not satisfying,” she contin- tries. In China it has earned praise from day English-language retreats at Dharma ues. “In the beginning there is a struggle, the country’s leadership for promoting Drum’s Yun Lai Monastery () in just to feed ourselves, but when this is Chinese values. Taipei’s . It’s just one of the achieved we inevitably look for something If a Disneyfied approach to Buddhism many meditation classes the organization spiritual. I think this is human nature. sounds attractive, then staying at the runs, not just in Taiwan, but around the We want peace and happiness and this is world’s largest Buddhist temple, in Kaohsi- world from Adelaide to Sweden, worth a lot. ung, could be a welcome change from work to Toronto, and all points in-between. Chang Ji introduces some of the basic tenets of meditation, and before long we are sitting at a simple table, hand in palm resting on the lap, becoming aware of our posture, our movement, our physical and mental selves. The aim of meditation, Chang Ji says, is “clarity and relaxation,” and when we understand our intentions we understand our mind. There are many kinds of meditation, Chang Ji adds, including: still, sitting, eat- ing, walking, and moving meditation. We try out the moving meditation, walking up and down the temple promenade for 100 meters or so with a full wooden bowl of water. The idea is to “put your mind where your body is,” “be aware and relax the whole body,” and not spill a drop of water. It’s harder than you might think and a form of strengthening the mind that devel- Meditation is ancient, yet experiencing a renaissance of sorts worldwide.

ops focus – surely, an advantage in these PHOTO PROVIDED BY DHARMA DRUM MOUNTAIN CULTURAL AND EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 25

religious.indd 25 2019/7/3 上午6:00 RELIGIOUS TOURS

The Three Buddhas at Dharma Drum Mountain World Buddhist Education Park, in Jinshan, . PHOTO: JULES QUARTLY

and the usual holiday routine of sea, , adherents who take part in religious pro- and fun. Visitors stay at the Fo Guang Shan cessions or have connections can book in Pilgrims Lodge, which opened in 1974. It advance – though you will probably need has dormitory-style accommodations and to speak Chinese to arrange this. larger shared rooms, with dining areas for Taiwan’s other major religion, Daoism, up to 1,000 guests. In addition to the medi- doesn’t lend itself so readily to popular- tation, there are parks to wander around, ization in the secular or Western world. an impressive 36-meter tall bronze Buddha, Though Daoism is connected philosophi- exhibitions, a museum, souvenir shops, and cally to martial arts such as bagua quan summer camps with programs that include and tai chi, it’s not that easy to find singing, games, and films. retreats or holiday courses. One exception Little known, even among locals, is the is the Dragon’s Gate organization, based fact that many of Taiwan’s temples can in Taiwan and the Ukraine, which offers provide simple and cheap accommodation. “Alchemy Tours” of temples and herb gar- A bit like a bed and breakfast or homestay, dens, with basic tours for beginners, and advanced courses that look at exercise, lon- gevity and medicines. A mini-explosion has occurred in the number of yoga retreats and holiday courses in Taiwan. Like Buddhism, yoga is an imported idea from India, but of more recent extraction. Origin Yoga & Wellness

The idea is to “connect with your natural self” at Origin Yoga & Wellness, on a retreat at its charming campus in New Taipei City’s Baishawan, by the sea.

PHOTO: ORIGIN YOGA & WELLNESS

26 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

religious.indd 26 2019/7/3 上午6:00 RELIGIOUS TOURS

markets itself as an opportunity to “con- nect with your natural self,” and focuses on spiritual growth and physical wellbeing. A 40-minute drive from central Taipei and at the northernmost tip of Taiwan, Origin Yoga is based in the faded holi- day resort surroundings of Baishawan, in New Taipei City’s Shihmen district. Run by the sister and brother team of Lydia and Edward Chang, the pair have cleverly turned their childhood home in an aban- doned community, into a sanctuary for yoga, meditation, and retreats. A mix of yoga, ocean therapy, ayurveda wellness (based on a thousand-year-old holistic system of diet, massage, and medi- tation), and curated local excursions, the retreats appeal mainly to foreigners. Chris- tina Harley, for example, is from London and works for a well-known fashion brand. She had previously visited Taiwan, enjoyed the country, and wanted to return. “I always wanted to do something like this because friends of mine who had done “Moving meditation” involves carrying a cup of water without spilling it and cer- it in other countries said it was worthwhile. tainly concentrates the mind. I had never done any wellness courses PHOTO PROVIDED BY DHARMA DRUM MOUNTAIN CULTURAL AND EDUCATIONAL FOUNDATION before, but wanted to do something for myself, something that was 100% benefi- ferent styles of yoga, but I tend to teach this trend. The weather, lifestyle, diet and cial,” Harley says. classical or hatha yoga (physical postures) religious freedoms are all attractive to peo- “I would say the highlights were many. because they are based on yoga scriptures ple looking for a new destination to make The yoga was great, the exercises were and prepare you for meditation, which I the most of their holidays and recharge really good and I enjoyed the trips we did think is important.” their batteries, according to Lydia Chang. to the herb garden and waterfall. I found It also has an international reputation for out a lot about myself and learned that I The Business of Mindfulness Buddhism, which the “Four Great Moun- carried around too much stress and nega- tains of Taiwan” have exported around tivity. I cared too much about what other According to a recent Guardian Report, the world. people thought about me and realized “The Mindfulness Conspiracy,” itself based As Taiwan’s tourism industry continues I needed to look after myself. The most on a book by Ronald Purser, McMindful- to develop, providing an improved range important thing is that when I get back ness: How Mindfulness Became the New of accommodations and curated vacations, into the world that I maintain the things Capitalist Spirituality, Amazon has a it will likely segment further, appealing to I’ve learned.” catalogue of more than 60,000 books that more people for different reasons. Industry Lydia Chang, who was formerly an mention “mindfulness” in the title. It is a insiders see a significant and increasing accountant in Canada, says this kind of US$4 billion business. demographic looking for holidays that thinking is new to locals. That is why most Meditation coaches are moving on from provide something different, spiritually of her clients come from abroad, though Silicon Valley and filtering into corporate nutritious, or a better work-life balance. this is slowly changing. “With locals they environments, in the now widely held belief Yoga retreats, temple stays, and mindful- need to know that what we are doing can that they can reduce stress and increase ness or meditation courses are part of this be trusted. Slowly, through word of mouth, productivity. They strip away the spiritual- development. this is happening.” ity of meditation and its Buddhist roots, to For Chang, Taiwan is a “hidden She says the first point of contact for teach what is effectively a self-help tool to gem.” “Part of the charm of Taiwan is many people with yoga is at a gym, as a improve concentration, making us better at that despite all the progress, a lot hasn’t form of mild exercise on the mat for an our jobs and happier in our lives. changed,” she says. “Taiwan has largely hour. “At a retreat the experience is more While wellness and mindfulness are retained its culture and is relatively holistic and we practice mindful eating, compared to modern religions, they are untouched, so it can provide these authen- walking and spend time getting back to also international growth industries and tic experiences. That’s very valuable, in nature,” Chang says. “There are many dif- Taiwan is well poised to take advantage of many ways.”

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 27

religious.indd 27 2019/7/3 上午6:00 ADVERTORIAL

Everrich pre-order website provide 24 hours service counter at airport, even red-eye flight passengers can have duty free shopping easily.

ver Rich Duty Free Shop, the biggest duty-free company in EVER RICH — E Taiwan, is dedicated to finding ways to make the duty-free shopping MAKING DUTY-FREE experience ever more convenient and efficient. In 2016, for example, the company SHOPPING EVER MORE noticed that more and more Taiwanese were traveling abroad due to the rise of budget airlines. In the same year, the CONVENIENT number of arrivals and departures at Taoyuan International Airport reached more than 40 million, up by a huge nearly 11% compare to the previous year. But the impact of the increased passenger volume on entry clearance meant that travelers had less time to spend on duty- free shopping. The response from Ever Rich was to launch the “Ever Rich Duty Free Pre-Order Website” (www.everrich.com) to enable passengers to pre-purchase goods through multiple devices such as computers, mobile phones, and tablets. The system eliminates time and location constraints on making duty-free purchases. Orders can be placed any time from seven days to four hours before departure for pickup at the Ever Rich counter at the airport around the clock. Passengers on red-eye flights, for example, can place an Left to right, Ever Rich President Kevin Chiang, Vice Chairman Sam Wu, order – and pick up their purchases – at Endorser Sunny Wang, and Marketing Manager Markus Chang. any time at their convenience.

28 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Everrich avertorial.indd 28 2019/7/3 上午6:01 ADVERTORIAL

Since 2016, passenger traffic at Taoyuan International Airport has continued to increase, in 2018 reaching a record high of 46.53 million travelers. And Ever Rich has been increasingly serving duty-free customers through multi channels. We believe that in the coming years more than 50% of the purchases made by our customers will involve interactions with the company through two or more channels, in line with the growing popularity of e-commerce and the global trend of O2O (Online to Offline). Among the attractive functions of the Ever Rich Duty Free Pre-Order More than 400 brands and 10,000 products Website is “Shop Perfect,” the one and only smart shopping mode especially the traveler of worries about what gifts Rich has also been making an effort to designed for passengers who want to friends and relatives at the destination expand the selection of products and make sure that the gifts they bring to would like to receive. brands, as well as bringing customers family members and friends are wanted Another advantage of the Ever more products that are exclusive online. and appreciated. The system works Rich Duty Free Pre-Order Website is As an indication of the strong similarly to a wedding register. After the confidentiality. Celebrity shoppers market acceptance of the pre-order logging into the website, passengers in particular appreciate being able system, in 2018 the website traffic with a confirmed flight schedule share to make purchases online in private grew by 2.5 times compared with the a special link with friends and relatives without fear of being recognized in the year before. The number of registered who can then connect with the website duty-free shop. members on the website reached nearly by clicking on the link and typing Among the wide variety of products a million people. in their user name. The friends and available on the Ever Rich Duty Free Ever Rich is always striving to relatives will then be able to add items Pre-Order Website, some of the most provide customers with the best, most to the shopping list, but the passenger popular with consumers are fashion convenient and friendly service. The can review and amend the list before items, perfume and cosmetics, and innovative duty free pre-order website making payment and collecting the electronic products. Recently the sales is just the latest example of how the goods from the airport. performance for perfume and cosmetics company is determined to achieve The “Shop Perfect” function relieves has been the most outstanding. Ever that goal.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 29

Everrich avertorial.indd 29 2019/7/3 上午6:01 TAICHUNG

THE ABCS OF TAICHUNG NATIONAL THEATER

The major city in central Taiwan has much to recommend STORY AND PHOTOS BY it as a stopover for local and foreign tourists, including its JOSHUA SAMUEL BROWN architecture, museums, and – surprisingly – greenery.

y first impression of Taipei transformation into a city of art, culture, and the ’s sole remaining resident, City was that it was an unliv- and greenery (attributes that I’ve come his comrades having passed away or M able, chaotic burg clogged with to appreciate more) is less documented. otherwise moved on – found a demolition scooters, people, and exhaust fumes. That Though Taiwan’s central city hasn’t gotten notice on his door. Unwilling to depart, he this notion was formed during a viewing of nearly as much ink or pixels as has Taipei, instead began painting, starting with the the film Eat Drink Man Woman it deserves the praise. interior of his own home and then applying six months before I had even set foot in So let’s start with the A’s. his bright colors and whimsical designs to Taiwan proved prescient, validating the outdoor walls, fences, and sidewalks. maxim set forth in song by David Byrne of Art Local college students took notice Talking Heads: “first impressions are often and began to spread the word about this correct.” Unless you’ve been under a self- unique, slowly expanding art installation. Thus 72 hours after arriving in Taiwan imposed media blackout for the past few More and more curious observers came in 1994, I found myself on a southbound years, you’ll no doubt have heard about by and promoted Huang’s art online, train, searching not for art or culture (being Taichung’s most famous nonagenarian attracting ever growing crowds of too green an expat then to appreciate such artist, Huang Yung-fu, also known as tourists and extensive media coverage. lofty sentiments), but heading to a city Rainbow Grandpa. The story of how the As Rainbow Grandpa, Huang is now an offering a gentler form of disorder in which small collection of ramshackle single-story internationally recognized artist, and his to acclimate myself to the strange new land bungalows where he lived for decades went neighborhood, now dubbed Rainbow that would become my intermittent home from near abandonment to one of central Village (Caihongjuan Village,), is for the next few decades. Taiwan’s most visited tourist attractions under government protection as a national A quarter century later, both Taipei bears retelling. treasure. and Taichung have evolved mightily in fits Located in the city’s outlying Nantun Less whimsical is Taichung’ s and starts. While Taipei’s evolution into District, the “village” was home to aged National Taiwan Museum of Fine Arts. a high-tech town of semi-tamed chaos veterans of the Chinese Civil War. A decade Renowned for its collection of modern and has been well documented, Taichung’s ago, Huang – then a sprightly octogenarian contemporary art, the sprawling museum

30 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Taichung.indd 30 2019/7/3 上午6:02 TAICHUNG

offers both permanent and rotating exhibits. The museum is a short walk from Taichung's Calligraphy Greenway, which we’ll file under B for Bucolic Byways. But before we get there…

Architecture

While the Taichung skyline makes for a nice shot from the window of a High Speed Rail train, the city is thus far bereft of iconic towers like or the Kaohsiung (admittedly hard to beat in the city representation department, since the building is shaped like the character kao [] in Kaohsiung). To truly appreciate the architecture of Taichung, you need to get a closer look. During the colonial era, the Japanese did their best to turn Taichung into a sort Rainbow Grandpa's colorful artwork at Rainbow Village. of surrogate . The most walkable nexus of Japanese colonial splendor lies just south of the Liuchuan River, where museum’s real star – a massive centenar- and sharply dressed, and the Mihayara’s you’ll find the Taichung Literature ian banyan that grows in the center of the main attraction is the ice cream shop on the Museum, a traditional Japanese-style plaza. Benches surround this stunning tree, building’s north side, which provides an structure that once served as a police allowing you to sit in its tranquil shade. unusual but delicious variety of flavors. headquarters. Travelers looking to trick children into Those seeking more mature colonial As with much in Taiwan, militarism has cultural appreciation (or ease them into the pursuits should check out the three- given way to contemplation, and the venue idea of getting vision-correction surgery at story Taichung Shiyakusho, a Baroque- is decidedly more serene these days, offer- some future date) can offer to take the little style structure dating back to 1911. The ing a welcoming space devoted to housing ones to the Miyahara Eye Hospital. The Shiyakusho, whose ground-floor café makes the works of Taiwanese authors. Book lov- name is purely historical, as nary a cataract a good spot for a midday coffee break, sits ers are invited to sit in reading rooms with has been removed on the grounds for many across from the Taichung Prefecture Hall, attractive wooden floors that emit a most a decade. Instead, the restored Miyahara another splendid example of colonial-era pleasing fragrance. But beautiful books and now features an array of tasty snacks and architecture worth exploring. wooden floors play second fiddle to the colorful souvenirs. Staff are welcoming Hands down, the city’s most notewor- thy contribution to the field of modern architecture is the Taichung National Theater, which takes up an entire city block and is a worthwhile place to spend the better part of an afternoon. Featuring swooping concrete walls on the outside and a delicate rounded interior, the build- ing offers much to explore. The lower floor has several small stores selling artistic wares perfect for holiday shopping, while the upper stories feature rotating art exhi- bitions, multiple bookstores, two good- quality restaurants, and of course the mod- ern opera house that gives the structure its name. Be sure to take the time to visit the Theater’s rooftop open-air park. Its subtle hilly manicured lawns provide a perfect set- ting to watch the sunset and contemplate eternity. Inside the traditional Japanese-style Taichung Literature Museum. Which is as good a segue as any into

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 31

7 Taichung.indd 31 2019/7/3 上午6:02 TAICHUNG

The five-story-high Buddha at Paochueh Temple.

the B’s, beginning with… hover over the river. The tanks enable fish Buddha () is a bit more som- to swim above the river, turning the tables ber, but also more welcoming than its Bucolic Byways by transforming the people walking by into urban cousin in that you can still go inside a spectacle for the fish to enjoy. the statue. Behind the big Buddha sits a Taiwan’s eastern coast gets more Next up… temple with numerous smaller Buddha press about its luscious green mountains, statues that are vividly painted with golden clean air, and picturesque coastline. A Bipartite of Big Buddhas skin and bright blue hair. While Taichung may not immediately be Moving on to the C’s, let’s start associated with greenery, it has several There is no shortage of Buddha statues with… areas allowing visitors to commune in Taiwan, but if it’s big you’re going for, with nature without abandoning urban central Taiwan is where you’ll find not one Crafts and Culture conveniences. but two. Taichung’s northern district is The Calligraphy Greenway is a home to the Paochueh Temple (). Crafty vibes abound in Taichung, where kilometer-long park filled with modern This five-story-high Buddha is distinctive neighborhoods once zoned for industrial art and sculptures, creating a pleasant not only for his large size but also for his use have been re-purposed into hipster blend of the natural and artistic. Walking golden color and wide, serene smile. hideaways. Shen Ji New Village ( the Greenway to the north brings you to Also of note is the Buddha’s belly ), with its collection of renovated Taichung’s CMP Park Block, Taiwan’s button, which once upon a time was a buildings, is one such spot where high-end first open-air museum, which mixes viewing window for visitors inside. This restaurants are situated comfortably next the concepts of craft and art. It has a area and the accompanying circular to pet-themed ice cream shops and quirky permanent exhibition of cars swallowed up windows on the Buddha’s backside stores selling artisan soaps and homemade by grass and a rotating collection of quirky are currently off limits. The statue still knick-knacks. At the neighborhood’s art such as giant sculptures of milk cartons. makes for stunning photos, as does the weekend flea markets with stands run by The Green River Trail, filled with art surrounding area containing a local artists, you’ll find everything from and alcoves, is a relaxing walk through Shrine and associated meditation hall. handmade wallets to craft beer. the city. On a hot day, its shady spots are Another Big Buddha of note can be For culture on a more organized level, perfect for eating ice cream and bird watch- found meditating on the top of Baguashan, Taichung’s museums are second to none. ing. An art installation of particular note a hill in Changhua City, about a 30-minute The National Museum of Natural Science involves glass fish tanks that seemingly drive south of Taichung. The Baguashan is a must stop for science nerds and fami-

32 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Taichung.indd 32 2019/7/3 下午5:33 TAICHUNG

lies with children, though the animatronic dinosaurs, popular with the older kids, may prove a bit too intense for the toddler set. Astronomy buffs won’t want to miss the museum’s world-class Space Theater. It costs a bit extra to get in, but the headsets with English translations of the hour-long show are free of charge. More down-to-earth cultural pursuits await at the Natural Way Six Arts Center, a dojo complex fashioned in a classical (that is, pre-colonial) Japanese style. The space has a main martial arts hall, a shrine, and a subordinate building east of the main hall. The hall has space for judo and kendo practice, and is also used for lectures, tea ceremonies, and classes. Keep a keen eye out for the Japanese gargoyles adorning the A vendor roasting corn at the Second Market. building. We conclude the C’s with a few suggestions for… north is Taichung’s Second Market, which several sit-down restaurants for those who boasts a cornucopia of stalls offering local may not wish to dine al fresco. Culinary Character delicacies such as thick squid soup and Which brings us back to one final A… oyster pancakes. For an extra dose of post- Although some in the southern city meal culture, the market is centered around Air of dispute the claim, Taichung is a small temple. One thing that Ang Lee’s film didn’t generally considered to be the original home Of course, no journey around a Tai- prepare me for was the rather…shall we say of that most quintessentially Taiwanese wanese city would be complete without chunky…quality of Taipei’s atmosphere, beverage, . The Chun Shui Tang a visit to a local night market, and Taic- and in 1994 poor air quality was another () restaurant proudly proclaims hung’s Feng Jia Night Market ( factor leading to my rather rapid retreat that it was the first to come up with the ) is among the biggest and most diverse southward. Once again, David Byrne’s then-unlikely idea of combining glutinous in the country. At nearly a kilometer wide, lyrics offered useful foreshadowing: tapioca pearls with tea, creating a drink it accommodates a huge array of food “Some people say not to worry about that’s now so associated with our fair island stalls. You’ll have no problem finding the air. that Madame President herself has been standard Taiwan night market fare along Some people never had experience with known to pose with a glass for the media. with trendy items like super-long French Air.” The restaurant’s food is good as well, fries and Korean fried chicken. In addition In this aspect, for better and worse, but don’t fill up. Just a few blocks to the to street-food stalls, the night market has Taipei and Taichung seem to have switched places over the last quarter century, with central Taiwan suffering through more high-particulate days than the breezier north thanks to a combination of location and industry. Hopefully, the opening of Taichung’s aptly named Metro Green Mass Transit Line (scheduled for the end of 2020) will help clear the air a bit. Until then, perhaps the best bet is to time your trip for days when the wind is blowing in from the east.

— Longtime TOPICS correspondent Joshua Samuel Brown is the author of four books about Taiwan including 2018’s Formosa Moon, available through The gentrified Shen Ji New Village. Amazon and fine bookstores.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 33

7 Taichung.indd 33 2019/7/3 上午6:02 HOTELS

MORE HOTELS OPENING TO MEET RISING DEMAND

The types of facilities reflect changes BY ANNA YANG taking place in the make-up of Taiwan’s tourism market.

PHOTO: MARRIOTT TAIPEI

ew hotels are continuing to The changes in the market have been open in Taiwan while the com- attracting new investment in the tour- N position of the local tourism ism industry. Among the many hotels market goes through some major chang- that opened in February and March this es. Though tour groups from China used year are the Kimpton Da An, The Place to account for a large proportion of the Taipei, the Grand Resort - visitors to the island, tensions in cross- Hualien, and the Just Palace Hotel. Strait relations in the past few years have For small boutique hotels like the slowed their arrival. Overall visitors to Kimpton Da An – located on Ren Ai Taiwan increased by 3.05% in 2018 over Road, Section 4 in east-central Taipei, the previous year to exceed 11 million, the changing face of Taiwan tourism is a while the number of travelers from China benefit. “When we talk about the China fell by 1.53% to just under 2.7 million. market, it’s divided between groups The rise in tourists has accelerated and transient FITs,” says Matthew so far in 2019 on surging numbers of Lim, the hotel’s General Manager. “We “free independent travelers” – known can’t target the groups because we are in the trade as the FIT market. For the really small – 129 rooms – so I think the PHOTO: MARRIOTT TAIPEI first four months of this year, total visi- tors increased by 10.64% and those from China were up by 18.53%. In addition, significant growth in visitors has occurred from Japan, South Korea, Southeast Asia, and North America. These increases may be due to the Taiwanese government’s successful efforts in reinvigorating its tourism industry. Tourism 2020, an initiative spearheaded by the Tourism Bureau, has made strides towards boosting international tourism and diversifying the source of visitors. For example, between April 1 and mid- June this year a program under Tourism PHOTO: MARRIOTT TAIPEI 2020 offered “spring travel” subsidies of The executive lounge (top) and outdoor terrace (below) of the Courtyard by up to NT$1,500 to foreign visitors. Marriott Taipei Downtown.

34 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Hotels.indd 34 2019/7/3 上午6:02 HOTELS

increase in transient FITs is actually an advantage for us.” Opened in March, Kimpton Da An is the San Francisco-based Kimpton brand’s first foray into Asia. Kimpton Da An is primarily targeting visitors coming for leisure rather than business purposes. Chi- nese tourists are the most numerous visi- tors by nationality, with Hong Kong and the United States a close second and third. Given Taiwan’s excellent culture of hospitality, Lim expresses confidence that this market is the right fit for Kimpton’s expansion into Asia. The Kimpton expe- PHOTO: DOUBLETREE HILTON rience, which emphasizes personalized The clientele of the DoubleTree by Hilton on Zhongshan North Road is half tourists, individual service, made Taipei a good half business travelers. match for an opening destination. “Anyone who comes to Taipei will alty program. On average, 66% of guests shows no signs of slowing down in the tell you that it’s the people here, the cul- are from the Asia-Pacific – especially near future. The due to ture, that makes this place special,” Lim Taiwan, Japan, Korea, Hong Kong, and be completed next year in Taipei’s Xinyi says. “Taiwan is probably one of the best Macao – while 30% are from Europe and District is scheduled to house two Hyatt countries to execute the service values the U.S. brands, a Park Hyatt and Andaz. The and culture that the brand is trying to (Another Courtyard by Marriott, this InterContinental Hotels Group (IHG), deliver.” one owned by the Leofoo Group, opened owners of the Kimpton Da An, have an Business travelers are also impor- in late 2016 near the Taipei Nangang additional six hotels in the pipeline. In tant to Taiwan’s tourism industry, given Exhibition Hall in the Nangang District). addition, the L’Hotel de Chine Group the country’s vital role in international Hilton is another international brand (LDC) plans to expand its presence on trade. For business-oriented hotels like expanding into Taiwan. Along with the the island with more properties. the Courtyard by Marriott Taipei Down- opening of the Hilton Taipei Sinban in town, which had its soft opening in October 2018 in New Taipei City’s Ban- December 2018, the target demographic qiao District, the DoubleTree by Hilton is the 30-45 year-old working profession- Taipei Zhongshan opened toward the end al. As a result, the fluctuating Chinese of last year on Zhongshan North Road, tourist market does not impact them as Section 1. Hilton first came to Taiwan strongly. in 1972, but withdrew from the market “We are confident that we can in 2002. The return to Taiwan after 17 gradually reach an average room rate years reflects Hilton’s confidence in Tai- of NT$5,500-$6,000 in 2019,” says wan’s potential for growth. Amanda Lin, marketing manager of the Though the DoubleTree was originally 227-room hotel, which is owned by the positioned as a more corporate-oriented Cathay Hospitality Management Co. hotel, the split between business and Since the opening in December, the hotel tourist customers is now around 50/50. has maintained an overall occupancy “Because Hilton is an American brand, rate of 60% at an average room rate of our members come from all over the NT$5,600. Located on the corner of Jian- world,” says General Manager William guo and Minsheng Roads, eight minutes Wu. “Taiwan has a lot of points that are from the Taipei Songshan Airport, the suitable for international development, hotel is equipped with multiple confer- and Hilton is very confident in Taiwan.” ence rooms and work-friendly amenities Wu also cites the Hilton Honors mem- to provide an efficient experience for the bership program as an advantage for busy professional. the DoubleTree brand over local hotels. The strength of Marriott’s internation- When members come to Taiwan with al brand has also been helpful to keeping little knowledge of where to stay, they are occupancy rates high. Some 80% of cur- inclined to first look for Hiltons because rent customers are members of Marriott of their familiarity with the brand. The garden and Living Room at the Rewards, the group’s international loy- The stream of new hotel openings Kimpton Da An. PHOTOS: KIMPTON DA AN

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 35

Hotels.indd 35 2019/7/3 上午6:02 ADVERTORIAL

technologies, which can both start in Taiwan and serve Taiwan,” says Dr. Zhang. “The cultivation and continued development of the country’s radiolog- ical talents can be rooted and used in Taiwan with the most advanced tech- nology and means.” In terms of medical manpower, the ratio of doctors to cancer patients in Taiwan is one to 83,000, on par with the U.S. and better than Japan and China. Varian hopes to continue to equip Taiwan’s abundance of skilled medical professionals with the highest and most advanced grade of machinery. The latest steps in Varian’s techno- logical development are its forays into the fields of proton therapy. Proton 放射治療臨床應用與趨勢記者會合影 therapy allows treatment to be deliv- ered precisely to the tumor area required. Paired with Varian’s sophisti- SHARE ONCOLOGY cated imaging systems, proton therapy has allowed maximum preservation of existing healthy cells within the patient INTELLIGENT & SHARE due to the highly targeted delivery of the treatment. One example of Varian’s work in ONCOLOGY FUTURE proton therapy is its ProBeam system. ProBeam has a pencil beam scanning ith the mission of creat- how to integrate these new technologies system that is recognized worldwide for ing “a world without fear have become the main direction of our its innovative approach. With unprece- W of cancer,” Varian Medical company’s future development.” dented levels of accuracy and precision, Systems has been a leader in oncology Expanding its worldwide presence ProBeam is able to deliver high doses research for the past 70 years. With a to Taiwan, Varian recently acquired while sparing healthy tissue and expos- success rate as high as 90% in the fight Cooperative CL Enterprises (COOP), ing the patient to lower levels of against nasopharyngeal cancer and its partner in distributing radiotherapy radiation. with its technology used by some three equipment of over 40 years. With this The incorporation of Artificial Intel- million patients each year, it is well on acquisition, Varian now has the ability ligence and Big Data into cancer care is the way to accomplishing its motto. to reach Taiwan’s radiotherapy industry another area that Varian is developing. Varian is the leading provider more directly. Taiwan is an important From diagnosis to treatment, artifi- of medical equipment and software area of interest for Varian. On aver- cial intelligence can help improve the for cancer treatment. Although the age, a patient is diagnosed with cancer patient experience in terms of both effi- company is best-known for its innova- every four minutes and 58 seconds on ciency and accuracy. tions in radiotherapy, Varian’s portfolio the island, meaning nearly 100,000 new “Varian’s development directions is extensive – radiosurgery, proton patients are diagnosed each year. are focused on multi-study and multi- therapy, data analysis, and image Varian’s plans for Taiwan are larger method integration in the first five management, to name a few areas – in than just distribution. The global brand years,” says Dr. Zhang. “The next five order to provide comprehensive treat- plans to establish a series of training years are based on the existing multidis- ment. centers and clinical schools to further ciplinary development, using Big Data “In 2017, we made a large decision research in the region’s advanced oncol- and Artificial Intelligence.” to transform the entire company from a ogy research field. The marriage of This multidisciplinary approach single radiotherapy service provider to a Taiwan’s comprehensive medical system includes collaboration between doctors full-platform service provider for cancer and existing research infrastructure and technology. The amount of data diagnosis and treatment,” says Dr. to Varian’s decades of experience and that is accessible, especially in Taiwan’s Zhang Xiao, the corporate vice presi- resources is an exciting step for both the national health insurance system, dent and chairman of Varian Medical company and cancer patients in Taiwan. provides researchers and medical Systems in Taiwan. “New technologies “Taiwan’s radiotherapy community professionals with a previously unimag- for the treatment of various cancers and can jointly develop newer treatment inable database.

36 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Varian avertorial.indd 36 2019/7/5 下午3:13 ADVERTORIAL

One important application of arti- says Dr. K.S. Clifford Chao, chair- the costs for patients. Early diagnosis, ficial intelligence is ensuring that man of the Taiwan Radiation Oncology efficient treatment plans, and accessi- treatment quality is identical across Society. “We are committed to using ble care are top priorities. In the coming the board. All cancer patients must be artificial intelligence to give patients the years, Varian will work with hospi- treated equally, regardless of wealth or same quality of treatment regardless of tals, universities, and research facilities status. whether they are in the metropolis or in in Taiwan to ensure that patients have “I know that Mr. Wang in Taipei a less developed area.” access to the most advanced care. As and Mr. Li in have the same Looking to the future, Varian’s Varian continues to expand locally and diseases, but how do I know that the mission is continuing to develop inno- globally, a world without fear of cancer treatment they receive is the same?” vative technology while driving down seems closer than ever.

瓦里安全球副總裁兼瓦里安台灣董事長 張曉

力於創造一個 “無懼癌症的世界，”瓦里安醫療系 設備。 統在過去的70年裡取得了驚人的成就。瓦里安也正 瓦里安技術發展的最新進展是進軍質子治療領域。 質子 致 在順利實現著他們的使命，在與鼻咽癌的對抗中， 治療可以將治療精確地傳遞到所需的腫瘤區域，與瓦里安先 控制率高達90%，每年由瓦里安提供之技術治療了300萬名 進的成像系統配合使用，質子治療可以最大化的保護患者體 患者，瓦里安已經逐步完成他們的里程碑。 內現有的健康細胞，並提供高度精準性的治療。 瓦里安在癌症治療醫療設備供應商中處於領先地位，雖然 瓦里安質子療法的一個例子就是ProBeam系統。 該公司是以他們在放射治療方面的創新技術於業界聞名，但 ProBeam有筆尖式射束掃描系統，以其創新的方法得到了全 瓦里安的產品仍然是廣泛的 - 包含放射外科，質子治療，數 球的認可。 ProBeam的準確度和精密度達到了前所未有的 據分析，醫學影像管理等等 ，以提供全面的治療體驗。 水平，它能夠提供高劑量，同時保留健康組織，並降低患者 “2017年我們做出了一個重大的決定，將整個公司轉型， 受到的輻射。 也就是從原本只提供單一的放射治療服務，轉變為提供癌症 將人工智能和大數據納入癌症治療是瓦里安正在開發的另 診斷和治療等全方位服務的平台” 。瓦里安副總裁兼瓦里安 一個領域。 從診斷到治療，人工智能可以在效率和準確性方 醫療系統台灣主席張曉博士說： “因此，治療各種癌症的新 面幫助改善患者體驗。 技術以及如何整合這些新技術已成為我們公司未來發展的主 “在未來的五年裡，瓦里安的發展方向主要集中在多學習 要方向。” 和多方法整合。”張博士說: “未來的十年裡則是在已有的多 最近瓦里安將其全球業務擴展到了台灣，並收購了洽泰企 方面學科發展的基礎上，全面使用大數據和人工智能。” 業股份有限公司（COOP），這是瓦里安40多年來在銷售放 這種多方面學科方式包括醫生和技術之間的協作，以及可 射治療設備上的合作夥伴。通過這次收購，瓦里安現在能夠 訪問的數據量。特別是台灣完善的國家健康保險制度，將可 更直接地接觸到台灣的放射治療行業。台灣是瓦里安很關注 為研究人員和醫療專業人員提供了一個難以想像的完整數據 的一個重要領域，因為每4分58秒就有一名患者被診斷出癌 庫資料。 症，這意味著每年有近十萬名新患者被診斷出來。 人工智慧的一個重要應用是確保治療質量全面一致。 對 瓦里安在台灣的計劃不僅僅是銷售 ，更打算將全球品牌 於瓦里安來說，無論財富或地位為何，所有癌症患者都將得 計劃建立一系列的培訓中心和臨床學校，進一步執行先進的 到平等對待是非常重要的。 腫瘤學研究，結合台灣綜合醫療系統及現有研究基礎設施， “我知道台北的王先生和恆春的李先生有同樣的疾病，但 與瓦里安數十年的經驗和資源，這對瓦里安公司和台灣的癌 是我怎麼知道他們接受的治療是一樣的呢”，台灣放射腫瘤學 症患者來說都將是一大助益。 會會長趙坤山博士說，“無論是在大都市還是在偏遠地區，我 “台灣放射治療界可以聯合開發更新的治療技術，這些技 們都致力於使用人工智慧確保提供相同的治療品質。” 術既可以開始於台灣，也可以服務於台灣”。張博士說: “能 展望未來，瓦里安的使命是繼續開發創新技術，同時降低 夠用最先進的生物科技技術和醫療在台灣紮根和使用，才能 患者的成本。早期診斷，有效治療計劃以及無障礙護理是首 使放射人才的培養和持續發展在台灣扎根。” 要任務。在未來的幾年裡，瓦里安將與台灣的醫院，大學和 在醫療人力方面，台灣的醫生與癌症病人的比例為1比8.3 研究機構合作，確保患者獲得最先進的醫療服務。隨著瓦里 萬人，這與美國相當，且優於日本和中國大陸。瓦里安希望 安在本地和全球範圍內不斷擴展，一個無懼癌症的世界將離 繼續為大量熟練的醫療專業人員提供最高端和最先進的機械 我們更近了。

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 37

Varian avertorial.indd 37 2019/7/5 下午3:13 MOON FESTIVAL

Eli Li, assistant marketing director at the . But Sam Fan, marketing consultant for Wan Ja Shan, is quick to correct what he CHANGING WAYS TO says is a misperception, explaining that the grilling trend predated the commercial. That view is corroborated by a 1978 article CELEBRATE AN in the Min Sheng Daily reporting on the increasing popularity of camping in scenic ANCIENT HOLIDAY areas and roasting meat as ways to more fully enjoy the moon-gazing. Once companies discovered that Tai- BY WUJUN KE wanese families enjoyed grilling meat outdoors during Mid-Autumn, they seized on the opportunity to develop and market barbecue sauces for the festive season. Wan Ja Shan, along with competitor Kimlan Soy Sauce, played an important role in develop- ing today’s widespread association of the Mid-Autumn holiday with barbecues. The consequence of the grilling during the holiday has raised concern within the government and among environmental groups. According to a 2013 report by the Taiwan Environmental Information Center, the level of airborne particulates (PM10) on Mid-Autumn Festival Eve was 1.7 times greater than on normal weekdays. To reduce the adverse health effects, the Center advises using slow-burning, smoke- less charcoal and a gas stove or oven for

PHOTO: REGENT TAIPEI

he Mid-Autumn Festival – also also developed in Taiwan of celebrating known as the Moon Festival – has the holiday by gathering with family and T been one of the most important friends to engage in barbecuing, typically observances on the since on a small Japanese-style hibachi grill. The at least the Tang Dynasty (618-906 AD). custom became so widespread, in fact, that But the Taiwanese have been finding new the government has now sought to discour- ways to celebrate the holiday, which this age the practice because of its contribution year falls on the evening of September 13. to alarming levels of air pollution. The essence of the festival has always Many people believe that the grilling been to get outdoors and “appreciate the craze was inspired by the Wan Ja Shan moon” (). Usually the moon-gazing Brewery’s classic 1986 TV commercials is accompanied by munching on the two for barbecue sauce, which popularized the foods most associated with the holiday – slogan “,” (“one house- round pastries known as mooncakes, and hold grills meats and thousands enjoy the pomelos, an Asian citrus fruit that is one aroma”). of the parent species that led to the hybrid “Everyone remembers the commercial, grapefruit. but no one knows why [grilling is associ- Mooncakes are a traditional treat dating Over the past few decades, the custom ated with the Mid-Autumn Festival],” says back to the Tang Dynasty. PHOTO: REGENT TAIPEI

38 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Moon fest.indd 38 2019/7/3 上午6:03 MOON FESTIVAL

barbecuing. Because of air pollution and littering, the – much to the chagrin of grilled meat lovers – even placed a ban on barbecuing at riverside parks and certain other sites last year.

Innovative flavors

Another trend in recent years has been the appearance of much more variety in the types of mooncakes on the market. The traditional mooncake was baked with a limited number of different fillings – red bean paste being one of the most popular. A hard-boiled egg yolk was often placed in the middle to symbolize the full moon. While some customers still prefer the traditional THE FESTIVAL SPIRIT flavors, many people find them too rich for the mod- On the evening of the Mid-Autumn Festival, families reunite to admire ern diet and welcome a wider choice of options. The leading hotels and bakeries, who do a huge business the moon’s celestial beauty. Parents might tell children the story of each year in selling mooncakes – both for the buyer’s Chang-E, a lunar goddess doomed to eternal separation from her own consumption and for them to pass on as gifts – husband. view each season as an opportunity to come up with new and appetizing variations. Or they might invoke a Tang poem that all Mandarin-speaking chil- Ivy , Food & Beverage Administration Man- dren were once required to commit to memory: Thoughts on a Tran- ager at the Grand Hyatt Taipei, notes customers’ quil Night ), in which Li Bai wrote the classic lines “ constant craving for something new: “Mooncakes ” are thousands of years old and people have gotten to know the flavors very well from eating them growing Moonlight in front of my bed. up,” she says. “But if you eat it every year, you might Perhaps frost on the ground. get tired of the same old flavors.” I lift my head and see the moon. In recent years, Taiwanese chefs have experi- mented with more diverse and cosmopolitan flavors Lowering my head, I miss home.

The poem conjures up the solitary author, an exiled statesman- turned-poet, wistfully gazing at the moonlight beside his bed. The poem captures the desolation and nostalgia of spending the holidays far away from home.

All holidays serve as a pretext to bring loved ones together, but the Mid-Autumn Festival infuses the spirit of family reunion and gratitude into its very essence. The Chinese word for reunion ), whose literal translation is “gathering ’round,” recalls the shape of the moon and the foods traditionally eaten on this holiday.

The origins of the Mid-Autumn Festival date back to the Tang Dynas- ty, if not earlier. Accordingly, mooncakes have been around for thou- of years and may have even played a part in dynastic turnover. According to Chinese folklore, Ming revolutionary and founding emperor Chu Yuan-chang and his advisor Liu Po-wen distributed mooncakes to their followers containing instructions to revolt on the 15th day of the eighth lunar month. The revolt eventually allowed them to succeed in overthrowing the Mongol-ruled Yuan Dynasty.

— By Wujun Ke Local accents in mooncakes are found in the flavors and even the gift boxes. PHOTO: GRAND HYATT HOTEL

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 39

Moon fest.indd 39 2019/7/3 上午6:03 MOON FESTIVAL

In creating new flavors, Li observes that moderation is the key. “It’s best if new mooncake flavors aren’t too oily, salty, PHOTO: GRAND HYATT HOTEL or sugary in order to appeal to health- conscious consumers,” he says. “New One of the Grand Hyatt’s mooncakes (and ingredients), left, and the season’s favor- ite fruit, pomelos, right. flavors should be fresh, but not too strong like durian. Consumers like a little bit of change but nothing too creative.” inspired by locally sourced ingredients. fusion-style mooncakes have been so con- Although the Hyatt is an international According to Kevin Zheng, Chef de Partie sistently in demand that the hotel began brand, it sees the need to adapt to the local at the Regent Taipei, the modern definition offering the Pineapple Custard Pastry, a market. “Engaging with local culture is of a mooncake is now quite broad. The rectangular pastry that hybridizes elements very important for global brands to create local formulations may bear more similari- from mooncakes and pineapple cakes, as a bridge between this piece of land and the ties to Taiwanese pastries such as pineapple one of its year-round gift items. rest of the world,” says Li. cake and sun cakes (taiyang bing) than to Rather than choose between traditional As a melting pot for Asian and Western traditional Chinese mooncakes. and fusion flavor profiles, the Grand Hyatt influences, Taiwan’s cultural identity lies In 2018, the Regent Taipei profiled Taipei offers customers a choice of two in its ability not only to draw from many an assortment of Taiwanese teas in their mooncake gift sets each year. One contains different traditions but also to forge new mooncakes, including Oolong, Baozhong smaller, unconventional mooncakes, while ones. For example, when asked how he cel- Green Tea, Black Tea, and Taiwanese High the other has larger, more traditional ones. ebrated the Moon Festival growing up, the Mountain Tea. “We try to take Taiwan’s “You will see more classic flavors like first thing that came to mind for Li was the local ingredients as a starting point and XO scallop sauce, lotus seed, longan dates, wearing of “pomelo hats.” add the best elements from Western-style and black sesame with walnut in bigger, “It’s something I always did as a child,” pastries to make a Taiwanese mooncake,” Guangzhou-style mooncakes,” explains the he recalls. “Even as an adult, I’ll still wear Zheng says. hotel’s Eli Li, listing some of the flavors in the hats out of habit.” Because the Regent Taipei serves an the luxury edition. This custom of wearing a skillfully international clientele, Zheng attempts The more affordable business edition carved pomelo rind on one’s head or plac- to harmonize Taiwanese ingredients and derives from a “tea and fruit” concept, in ing them on the heads of children not only Western influences. He reports that in which three Taiwanese teas – Black Tea makes for an adorable visual but is also a terms of sales, the most popular in recent from Sun Moon Pavilion, Buckwheat Tea, unique addition to Taiwan’s Mid-Autumn memory was Imperial Moon, a mooncake and Baozhong Green Tea – are paired with festivities. While the origin of the pomelo made of King’s Cake crust and custard- three representative Taiwanese fruits: pine- hat is unclear, eating pomelos during the pineapple filling. It was developed as part apple, passionfruit, and mango. Like the moon festival is common to Taiwan and of the hotel’s commemoration of the 25th Regent, the Grand Hyatt strives to make the coastal cities across the south of China. anniversary of its founding. Taiwan the primary inspiration for their One explanation is simple convenience: Zheng’s personal favorite, however, is mooncakes. This care extends to the gift Pomelos are seasonally available from Sep- Nusstorte, a German-inspired mooncake box design, which derives from the flower- tember to October, which perfectly coin- made with walnut dough, mixed nuts, patterned mosaic tiles commonly used dur- cides with the timing of the Mid-Autumn pineapples, and caramel. East meets West ing the Japanese colonial period. Festival.

40 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Moon fest.indd 40 2019/7/3 下午5:36

TOUR DE TAIWAN

SADDLE UP FOR A TOUR DE TAIWAN HOLIDAY

The island is a cornucopia of delights for cyclists keen for the call BY JULES QUARTLY of the open road, mountain adven- tures, Pacific Ocean vistas, and myriad cultural highlights.

very Sunday Lin Kun-you gets up or buses just can’t access, avoid creat- It inspired the editor-in-chief of Cyc- before dawn and puts on his span- ing pollution, go places where there’s no lingTips, Caley Fretz, to call it “More E dex uniform of fitted and padded pollution, and it’s also convenient and rewarding than an outing to Alpe d’Huez, cycling shorts, short-fingered gloves, and kind of cheap too. I’ve met a lot of cool and certainly more difficult. It’s more an aerodynamic road cycling helmet. His people and had some great experiences adventurous than anything in the Dolo- high-spec road bike is stored in the spare doing this.” mites, more rugged than the Pyrenees.” room. He rolls it out of the apartment, The secret is out, with both profes- The five-day ultra cycling race, BIK- down one flight of stairs, out the door, sional and amateur cyclists, Taiwan resi- INGMAN, has also gained a reputation and onto the practically deserted streets dents and tourists, all clued in to what for tough climbs, as it starts in Taipei and of in New Taipei City. Taiwan has to offer. The Taipei Cycle takes on the 3,952-meter Jade Mountain. Lin then saddles up and sets off to a Show every March and Taiwan’s status as Meanwhile, the granddaddy of them all, prearranged spot to meet his friends and the global center for bicycle production – the Tour de Taiwan, has been held every fellow cyclists. For the whole morning, because of companies like , March since 1978 and is part of the UCI they will explore the open spaces of New Merida, and KHS – have spurred the Asia Tour. Taipei City – climbing mountains, trailing country’s transformation into one of the the coastline, or heading to some scenic world’s great road-racing destinations. Bicycle Kingdom destination – before making their way The abundance of high-spec but home in the early afternoon for a well- affordable bikes and increased leisure “Taiwan is Asia’s ‘Bicycle Kingdom,’ deserved rest. time have led to the development of an an island that produces some of the Lin is one of the tens of thousands impressive infrastructure for cyclists all world’s best bikes and has the roads and of amateur cyclists in Taipei who trans- over the main island – and even on the extreme geography to test them,” says form into weekend road warriors for a offshore islands. Since around the middle Simon Foster, destinations manager at the break from work, family, and the cares of the previous decade, there has been a Taiwan office of Grasshopper Adventures, of the world. He’s been doing it for a few steady expansion in the number of cycle- which started up in 2004 and is one of years now and has also done tours of the ways, bike stores, and roadside rest areas the biggest bicycle tour operators in Asia. island, including punishing cycling trips where cyclists can get free water, tire The King of the Mountain ride starts all the way down south to Kaohsiung. pumps, and updated map directions. at sea level and rises to 3,275 meters in He describes Taiwan as a “paradise for There are also myriad cycling events, a little over 100 kilometers. “The good cyclists.” such as the King of the Mountain (KOM news is that for mere mortals, the varied “I like cycling because I can use my Challenge), which has become a major terrain and excellent cycling infrastruc- own power to go places,” Lin says. “It’s international sporting occasion, partly ture makes Taiwan a great cycling desti- not really quick or slow, but just the because of the scenic Taroko Gorge nation no matter what your ability level,” right speed to see and enjoy everything. I route, but also because it’s rated as one Foster says. can go to many beautiful spots that cars of the world’s most arduous cycle climbs. Taiwan Tourism Bureau has also

42 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Tour de Taiwan.indd 42 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TOUR DE TAIWAN

climbed on board. Since 2010 it has to help, communication can be an issue, has been part of the fast-evolving busi- gone big on supporting bike tours and whether you’re trying to find your way, ness since he was first asked to organize produced some well-written introduc- get your bike fixed, or just order some a bicycle tour for six American cyclists in tory materials. For example, the pdf- noodles. 2013. He notes that not only is it conve- format “Cycling Around Taiwan” (see “Likewise, road signs can be ambigu- nient and safe to cycle around Taipei to fact box) gives pre-ride planning tips, ous or confusing, and while Google see the city’s various attractions, but also daily schedules for a selection of rides, Translate and miming can overcome very easy to get out of the city to the tea and information on bike rental stations some of these issues, guided tours remove plantations of Muzha, fumaroles of Yang- and bike service stations. There are also these hassles and allow riders to focus on minshan, or the hot springs at Jinshan. sections on finding accommodations or the scenery and the ride, plus offer a vari- “Not every country is like this. In riding partners, and even a QR code link ety of cultural experiences that are diffi- Paris, it’s a long way to the oceans and to get a GPS tracker from the Cycling cult to access for the independent rider.” mountains. Here, an hour’s ride and you Lifestyle Foundation that can certify Basically, there’s something for every could be anywhere,” Chen says. round-island trips. bike rider in Taiwan. So, without further A bike tour will certainly include Meanwhile, a fertile ecosystem of ado, let’s set off and take a look at five the impressive Riverside Bikeway, an local, regional, and international com- bicycle tours recommended by those in 111-kilometer network of paths along panies has grown to service demand for the know, ranging from easy to punish- Taipei’s four major rivers (Keelung, Jing- bike tours. Grasshopper Adventures, for ing, and taking in some of the country’s mei, Danshui, and Xindian). The high- example, offers everything from fully most scenic byways and highways. lights include the bright lights of Taipei’s guided bike tours with support vehicles, Dadaocheng area, natural of to family rides and self-guided tours. Guandu, and the sports parks and dikes Taipei These typically include accommodations, of the Shuangxi riverside trail. restaurants, luggage transfer, and mobile Taipei is an intensely bike-friendly phones for emergency support. metropolis, from the applauded bike- Hualien Although Foster says that “bikepack- sharing service YouBike (a collaboration ing” (like backpacking, but with bikes) between the Taipei City Government and One of Simon Foster’s lesser-known has taken off in recent years, partly Giant Bicycle) to the policies of the Mass but favorite routes is in because of advances in technology, his Rapid Transit (MRT) system and Taiwan on the winding Route 64, also known company’s main business remains tours. High Speed Rail (THSR) allowing bikes as “Monkey Mountain Road.” The tour “Language can be a hindrance to inde- to be taken on board. could be looked on as an introduction to pendent touring for non-Chinese speak- Founder of the Taipei-based Panagoe the steeper mountain challenges that lie ers, and while people are always keen Professional Cycling Tour, Stephen Chen, ahead, taking in the hot springs town of

It’s time to take a break and some fluids on a Grasshopper Adventures bike tour. PHOTO COURTESY OF GRASSHOPPER ADVENTURES

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 43

7 Tour de Taiwan.indd 43 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TOUR DE TAIWAN

Ruisui at one end and the Cave of the Eight Immortals at the other. FACT BOX “You’re more likely to see monkeys or a multi- colored Muller’s barbet than cars on this magical little Taiwan Tourism Bureau road that traces the course of the Xiaguluan River as it Download pdf-format publication Cycling Around Taiwan carves its way through the jungle and badlands scenery (https://eng.taiwan.net.tw/att/0024052/04_0024052.pdf) to the coast at Dagangkou. But this is just one of a Also see website for 2019 Taiwan Cycling Festival hundred brilliant backroads in Taiwan’s awesome arse- (https://eng.taiwan.net.tw/ nal,” Foster says. m1.aspx?sNo=0002019&lid=080071) East Coast Giant Adventure It’s fair to say the East Coast is the jewel in the Contact: Alice Cheng crown of Taiwan’s “Bicycle Kingdom,” Foster says. 117, Henan Road, Section 2, , Taichung City “My favorite overall itinerary would be our Bike Tai- ( 117 2F) wan ride, a classic route that starts from mind-blowing Phone: 04-2311-7979 Taroko Gorge and works its way down through the https://www.giantcyclingworld.com/travel/ idyllic East Rift Valley, eventually crossing the Coastal Or go to Facebook page Mountain Range to emerge on the rugged Pacific East Coast, which we follow all the way down to Kenting Panagoe Professional Cycling Tour in the deep south.” https://www.panagoetour.com/ “The East Coast and For challenge and adventure and strong local knowledge are sparsely populated, stunningly spectacular and have well maintained roads, some of which are so underused that it feels like they were put there just for Grasshopper Adventures (Taiwan) cyclists. But no matter where you are on the island, https://www.grasshopperadventures.com/en/tours. great local food and soothing hot springs are never far html?country[]=Taiwan away, making for the perfect end to a hard day in the From self-guided to fully supported tours, or design your saddle.” own Ours Travel Works with Giant Manufacturing and Ltd to The road to Wuling Mountain, the highest road in offer tours East Asia, rises up to 3,275 meters and is not an easy (https://www.ourstravel.com/) ride, ask ask Steve Skinner, from New York. “Just

Taipei City Cycling Map Online and in pdf form: (https://www.travel.taipei/Content/images/static/ information/taipei_cycling-map1_en.pdf)

Cycling Life Style Foundation https://www.cycling-lifestyle.org.tw/ Address: 51, 17F-1, , Section 2, Taipei (5117F-1) Phone: 02-8978-5099

And finally ... 8 Laws Every Cyclist in Taiwan Should Know (https://www.taipeibiketours.com/single-post/ 2017/06/06/8-Laws-Every-Cyclist-in-Taiwan-Should- Know) Courtesy of Taipei Bike Tours (https://www.taipeibiketours.com/) Taiwan has some challenging terrain, both along the coastline and up the Central Mountain Range.

PHOTO COURTESY OF PANAGOE PROFESSIONAL CYCLING TOUR

44 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Tour de Taiwan.indd 44 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TOUR DE TAIWAN

The call of the open road and Pacific Ocean views. PHOTO COURTESY OF PANAGOE PROFESSIONAL CYCLING TOUR

finished my third trip with Panagoe,” tories at some points. Even so, there are and find independent adventure. This he told TOPICS. “Stephen and his team some fantastic bike paths and plenty to could be on one of the offshore islands always do a terrific job. Very patient with see and do, which is why our final bike like Penghu, or up one of the country’s me as I struggle to get up Wuling Moun- tour takes on the whole island. 286 mountains. Many local cyclists are tain. And Taiwan is such a special place Cycle Route Number 1, the Huandao fans of the “sea of clouds” in Taichung’s to ride really unique terrain and sights.” () or Formosa 900, is a 900-kilometer Lishan, and family fun can be experi- The killer 13-day tour is for those circuit of the entire island, usually complet- enced on the country’s first bike lane, the over 18 who are in regular training. The ed in nine days. It first gained prominence 12-kilometer Guanshan Loop average daily mileage is 77.7 kilometers. with the movie Island Etude (), in along a canal. It takes in scenic cypress forests before which a hearing-impaired college student Most visitors arrive at Taiwan Taoyu- tackling the Central Mountain Range, decides to get on his bike and explore the an International Airport and spend at which has broken many a cyclist. The island of his birth. “There are some things least a few days in Taipei before explor- saddle on Hehuanshan’s east and main that, if you don’t do them now, you never ing farther afield. Some cyclists bring peak marks the road’s highest point, in will,” he says. their bikes and with the right carrier it Wuling, a historic place on account of Foster calls the ride “something of a isn’t a problem as long as it’s packed in the Wushe Incident, a bloody rebellion rite of passage for young Taiwanese, and a bike box and doesn’t weigh more than of indigenous Atayal tribespeople against increasingly more foreigners in recent the typical load for checked baggage the Japanese, who colonized the island years,” helped by Giant and government (unless you want to pay extra). At the between 1895 and 1945. sponsorship. Though it was only sign- same time, Taiwan is an ideal place to posted in 2015, it has quickly become rent or buy a bike. Formosa 900 one of the world’s bucket list tours for “I’ve cycled in other parts of the experienced cyclists. world, like Japan, , and Hawaii, but It’s understandable why the East Taiwan compares favorably with the best Coast and Central Mountain Range Tour’s end of them,” says Stephen Chen. “There are – with their unspoiled vistas and indig- lots of cycle paths, road maintenance is enous culture – should receive so many While we’ve looked at the main bike good, the landscapes are very diverse, plaudits. The West Coast facing China, tours of Taiwan, it should be emphasized and there are some first-class mountain meanwhile, is like a strip mall for fac- that it’s easy to get off the beaten track roads.”

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 45

7 Tour de Taiwan.indd 45 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TAITUNG

my most enjoyable motorcycle-exploring experiences in Taiwan. When big-city residents head off to Tai- tung County, their friends often ask: “The coast or the East Rift Valley?” The stretch of coastline that includes Dulan () and Sanxiantai () pulls in tourists by the busload. On the inland side of the Coastal Mountain Range, the charm of Luye Town- ship () is matched by the sublime rice-field scenery around Chishang (). But there’s a “third Taitung,” a region I and many others have been guilty of ignoring. Apart from those on round-the- island expeditions, visitors coming from northern Taiwan seldom venture beyond the hot springs resort of Zhiben () and EXPLORING into the townships of Taimali (), Jinfeng (), Dawu (), and Daren THE THIRD TAITUNG (). Because I live in Tainan, I usually approach Taitung by car via Highway 9, the cross-mountain route Mandarin- speakers call the “Nanhui” (). This road comes down from the mountains Most visitors to the popular near Daren. For the next 40-odd STORY AND PHOTOS southeastern county focus on either kilometers, it stays very close to the Pacific BY STEVEN CROOK Ocean – and we always cover that distance the coast or the East Rift Valley, but as quickly as possible. the area’s string of scenic mountain A short train-and-bus trip last year opened my eyes to the appeal of Taitung’s towns also deserves attention. southernmost townships. This time around, I wanted the freedom and flexibility of my own vehicle.

ne moment I was reveling in the scenery, happier than I’d been for O weeks. The next, I was pushing branches aside and wondering if it was wise to proceed on foot, let alone continue riding the scooter I’d hired earlier that morning. A few hundred meters beyond the indigenous hamlet Mandarin-speakers called Xinxing (), one of the nicest roads I’ve yet to find in Taiwan came to an abrupt halt. Google Maps had led me to believe that County Road 68 (68), also known as Shaoya Industry Road ( ), linked up with County Road 70, and that the latter would bring me back to the east coast. Even though I failed in this particular mission, the several hours that preceded having to turn around and the 30-odd Highway 9 sticks very close to the Pacific Ocean, but frequently dips and climbs hours that followed it included some of because of the rugged local topography.

46 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Taitung.indd 46 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TAITUNG

Better on two wheels

Two hours and 46 minutes after my train had left Xinzuoying (the Kaohsiung terminus of the high-speed railway), I stepped onto the platform at Jinlun ( ) in Taimali Township. Near the station, there are a few shops, a church – more about that later – and a junior high school famed for its award-winning Paiwan indigenous dance troupe. It was the middle of the week, yet at least 50 Taiwanese tourists also disem- barked at Jinlun. As they piled their luggage into minibuses bearing the names of nearby hot-springs hotels, I walked up the road to Ji Fa Motorcycles [; Tel: (08) 977-1066]. After presenting my Taiwan driver’s license, I set off on an almost-new 125cc scooter (NT$900 for a day and a half, including a full tank of gas). My first objective, the Duoliang Train Tuban Suspension Bridge in Daren Township is surrounded by attractive Station (), is just over three kilo- landscapes. meters down the coast from Jinlun. The station is more popular now than it ever was when trains actually stopped here. The Instagram generation has discovered that, without much effort, you can stand inland of the tracks and capture images of your friends with a train and the Pacific Ocean in the background. The village of Duoliang sprawls across a hillside that plunges down toward the sea (a less scrupulous Tourism Bureau would promote this region as “Taiwan’s Cinque Terre,” likening it to the seaside villages along the Italian Riviera). Most residents are from the indigenous Paiwan tribe, but none of the architecture hints at Austrone- sia. However, in front of a few homes, you can find freshly harvested djulis (the word for native red quinoa in the Paiwan lan- Murals in the indigenous village of Taiban depict a traditional method for hunting guage) drying under a strong sun. wild boar. Trains still stop at Longxi (), about six kilometers to the south, and it was here a platform covered with heavy stones; the Road 68, the Tuban Suspension Bridge ( that I left Highway 9 and began my adven- platform is then collapsed to incapacitate ) is surely one of the Taiwan’s most ture on County Road 68. The road follows the animal. The western part of Taiban is attractive footbridges. the north bank of the Dazhu River () at a higher elevation on the other side of a After a few switchbacks, I was among to a fork in the road. There I veered north creek. In visual (and perhaps social) terms, pine trees. Neither traffic nor trash spoiled to the village of Taiban (). the focal point of that community is a the views. In hindsight, this should have The eastern half of Taiban is notable Presbyterian Church. tipped me off that the road might be a for its many colorful murals. One depicts The next village along is known to dead end. a Caucasian Jesus. Another, a kind of its Paiwan inhabitants as Tjuabal, and to Entering the forest, it was obvious triptych, shows two indigenous men using Mandarin speakers as Tuban (). Just where County Road 68 had been and a hunting dog to force a wild boar beneath beyond it, at the 7.5-kilometer point on what had happened to it. Landslides had

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 47

7 Taitung.indd 47 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TAITUNG

Taihu — Slowly freewheeling back down to the Pacific Coast on Shanzhuku Industrial Road is a excellent way to enjoy the stunning scenery in the area.

covered much of what had been the surface sight. I would have stayed longer, but I had delights, but it was time to head north to of the road, and foliage had taken root in my eyes on another backcountry route. Zhiben and my bed for the night. the displaced soil. I found evidence that Taihu Road (), which becomes hunters pass this way, but having no desire Shanzhuku Industrial Road ( Fickle weather to get lost in the woods, I retraced my steps ), winds in a southeasterly direction and rode the 13.7 kilometers back to the before returning to Highway 9. Few people I awoke to a cloudy sky which never coastal highway. seem to live along this road, although cleared. It was as if the sun had overexerted I zoomed southward to Dawu, a town there are signs for tourist farms and itself the previous day and called in sick. At divided into northern and southern halves campgrounds. As I’d hoped, the views – least I wouldn’t have to sun-proof myself by a broad creek of the same name. The both inland and out to sea – turned out to with long sleeves, gloves, and a mask. railway station is north of the river, as are be excellent. My first goal was to check on the several eateries. After grabbing lunch, I If your car has a reasonable amount of status of Baiyu Waterfall (, also set out for the intersection of Highway 9 clearance, and you’re somewhat familiar known as Jade Waterfall) near Zhiben’s and County Road 69, near Dawu Fishing with Taiwan’s mountain roads, driving is main cluster of big hotels. As I’d heard, the Harbor. an option. A motorcycle is better, however, stairway that once provided access to the A little over two kilometers after the as you can stop anywhere you want, and upper falls was still closed, and nothing turnoff, I parked at Jinlong Lake ( can coast downhill for minutes at a time. indicated that repairs were underway. ), a spring-fed body of water that irri- In addition to saving gas and reducing Returning to Road 194, which connects gates nearby farms. Walking all the way pollution, the quieter coasting greatly Highway 9 with the hot springs zone, I around the lake (the path is also ideal for increases your chances of seeing wildlife. rode west toward the Zhiben National bicycles and motorcycles) takes less than Near the highest stretch of Shanzhuku Forest Recreation Area (). 30 minutes. Industrial Road, just after I’d stopped At the kilometer-1 marker – where a tiny The lake supports a large population of to look at a roadside workshop where bilingual sign reads “Yaoshan Trails ( ducks and egrets. Each time there was any logs were being prepped for mushroom )” – I turned left and began a careful disturbance, the latter took off en masse, farming, I flushed a Swinhoe’s Pheasant. ascent into the hills. Very soon, I had an flew a circuit or two, and then returned to Every corner of this 12.5-kilometer- eagle’s view over the river and the forest their starting positions. It was a beguiling long digression had brought fresh scenic recreation area.

48 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 Taitung.indd 48 2019/7/3 上午6:04 TAITUNG

Like some of the roads I’d explored the turned around and disappeared before I previous day, this wasn’t one I’d recom- could get my camera out. A little further mend to lowland motorists. Several corners on, I surprised a family of turkeys that, I’d were so tight I had to slow to a crawl. One guess, were free range rather than feral. section was carved from a fragile-looking Working my way back toward Jinlun cliff face. Hardly anywhere was there space so I could return the scooter, I had time for two cars to pass. to explore a little more. Just south of the After around five kilometers I was with- Taimali Train Station (), I took in a few hundred meters of the spot where County Road 64 into Jinfeng Township. the Yaoshan Elementary School ( It started to rain, but I pressed on. ) once stood. I parked and walked up to When I reached Jialan (), a mixed a small plateau. For a period after World Rukai/Paiwan community, I spotted War II, the school had more than 100 stu- something intriguing across the river. A dents. Nowadays few people live nearby, newish bridge leads straight from the and many of the fields are fallow. village to a sheltered walkway that’s called After the school’s closure in 1993, the The Skywalk (), but which isn’t campus became a minor tourist attraction. significantly higher than the river. Kuomintang-era political slogans on the The Skywalk doubles as part of a bike walls resonated with Taiwanese visitors trail. At the time of my visit, there were who had grown up under martial law. bikes for rental, but nobody to rent them After the community development associa- from. It was siesta time on a wet day in tion restored the electricity, plenty of tour- the middle of the week, so I shouldn’t have ists were willing to pay to camp here. been surprised that no one was on duty. Concluding that the school buildings The bicycle path goes upriver as far were cracked beyond repair, the authorities as another bridge. Crossing that, I found demolished everything in early 2018. Since a type of automated gate I’ve never then, Mother Nature has reclaimed the before seen in Taiwan. It opened when I entire site. I couldn’t find a single brick approached, but after about 1.5 kilometers Taiban Presbyterian Church, the tallest amid the underbrush. the road became utterly impassable because building in Taiban. Freewheeling back to Road 194, I had of a deep hole followed by a substantial two memorable encounters with nature. A landslide. Reeve’s muntjac that was about to cross The hills inland of this point are part ), off-limits to casual visitors, the road looked in my direction, then of the Dawushan Nature Reserve ( and I wasn’t sure whether proceeding a few hundred meters upriver to Jinfeng Hot Springs () is allowed. The springs are said to be very hot indeed. Despite the drizzle, I could see steam rising from a clearing up ahead. After handing in my motorcycle, I delayed changing into dry clothes at the Jinlun Train Station so I could revisit Kiokai Ni Santo Josef ( , Church of St. Joseph). Founded in the mid-1950s, this Roman Catholic house of worship was given a Paiwan name and a wonderfully detailed Austronesian makeover in 2007. Most of those depicted within, including the Virgin Mary, wear tribal garb. Snake totems appear in the Stations of the Cross. If I were religious, I would have come here at the beginning of my trip and prayed for safety. I’m not, but my two-wheeled tour of the region had been such great fun that making a donation to the maintenance Paiwan snake motifs appear in the Stations of the Cross in Kiokai Ni Santo Josef Catholic Church. fund seemed entirely apt.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 49

7 Taitung.indd 49 2019/7/3 上午6:04 FAREWELL TAIWAN

GOODBYE, FAREWELL, AND AMEN, TAIWAN

STORY AND PHOTOS BY JOSHUA SAMUEL BROWN

Stop me if you’ve heard this one: baggage, physically and mentally, cycling is beautiful, and the weather, which had away from Taipei City physically and threatened rain in the morning, was A Westerner goes to see a psychiatrist metaphysically, trying to put distance now beautiful – the crisp, clean air of a at Tzu Chi Hospital. In reasonably fluent between myself and a lifestyle that was northern Taiwan spring. Mandarin, he says:“Doc, you’ve got to slowly killing me. Full-time work is no It’s a road I’ve ridden many times, and help me. Taiwan has become too vivid life for a lifelong freelancer, and two it’s possible that this will be my last ride for me, too noisy. I swear I’m hearing years in group-think-heavy Taiwanese in Taiwan for a while. In a few months trumpets and firecrackers even when office culture withers a creative soul. I’ll be leaving Taiwan again, perhaps this there’s no festival at the temple next to Whoops! Let’s nip that thought in the time for good. In January I turned 50, my apartment building. I’ve spent the last bud, shall we? Resentment causes stress, and if life is a three-act play, my third act six months wavering between depression and stress leads to illness. The antidote to has just begun. Having spent a good part and anxiety.” resentment is gratitude, and thus as I ride of my second act exploring and writing The psychiatrist nods sympathetically. I shall make note of the many things for about Taiwan, it feels as if the great “Many Westerners who spend a long which I am deeply grateful to Taiwan for magnet wants me somewhere else for the time here find our culture overwhelming. having provided. third. So one last trip through Taiwan, The key is to cultivate an understanding seeking serenity, an unseen vista, and of Taiwanese culture. Here is my Taiwan Gratitude List item 1: perhaps an epiphany or two. suggestion: There is an American author Magnificent universal healthcare, The road continues rising as it winds who has written many books and something barely imaginable for most through the mountains separating articles which will help you gain a new Americans. Taipei and Yilan. The sign telling me appreciation of Taiwanese culture. His My opening anecdote about the I’ve officially left Taipei is a welcome name is Joshua Brown. Go read some of psychiatric visit was only mostly sight, as is the cooling breeze and ocean his work. He will make you feel better fabricated. Indeed, it was a kindly family view. Equally welcome is the sight of 10 about Taiwan.” doctor at the aforementioned Tzu Chi kilometers of switchback roads leading “But doctor,” cries the patient. “I am hospital who suggested that I relax more down to the town of Jiaoxi, the first stop Joshua Brown!” and exercise daily, which I interpreted on my largely open-ended journey. The psychiatrist shrugs and presses to mean quit your job and take a long Jiaoxi has changed a lot since my first a button beneath her desk, silently bicycle trip. visit in the late nineties. It was a smaller summoning a pair of straightjacket- Which brings us around to the current place back then, with none of the high- bearing monks to escort the Westerner to moment nicely. rise hotels hastily built to provide housing the inpatient ward. The motorcycle racers who’d sped and recreation for throngs of Chinese past me on the road from Xindian have tourists (a torrent that has, for better or The preceding anecdote is fictional. turned back at Pinglin, and in the last worse, become a trickle in recent years). The tale that follows is not. heavy mountain slog I have the road to Exhausted, I glide past these less budget- The road before me winds upwards, myself, save for a few cars and trucks friendly resorts and pull up in front of a and Taipei City is two hours behind. who’ve chosen not to avail themselves small, inviting inn on a side street. Legs burning, I continue climbing, of the tunnel that’s turned Jiaoxi into a The place seems strangely familiar. breathing heavily. I am carrying too much Taipei bedroom community. The road The man at the front desk greets me with

50 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Farewell.indd 50 2019/7/3 上午6:05 FAREWELL TAIWAN

a smile. the Kavalan whiskey factory. To the west, Taiwan Gratitude List item 3: One “You’ve stayed here before, haven’t Route 7 stretches before me, rising from of the world’s finest rail systems and an you?” he asks. sea level to eventually reach the mountain abundance of quirky hotels. My mind races back to a drunken town of Lishan. The skies are clear and blue as I leave spree through town many years before, Having only ridden downhill on this the inn and head south, opting for Route during which I’d been a less than gracious road, I contemplate riding the other way, 193 which hugs the western flank of the guest. winding through the mountains to hit young mountain range separating the “Recently?” I ask innocently. Hualien through Taroko Gorge. My legs, coast from Taiwan’s East Rift Valley. “Maybe three years ago?” responds still sore from the previous day, cast the To truly appreciate this most beautiful the innkeeper. deciding vote, opting for a southward stretch of Taiwan, the reader needs to I relax, realizing my stay was during swing across the river and back to the understand Taiwan’s place in geological a more reasonable period of my Taiwan coast. history, for the island happens to lay on experience. Not wanting my legs to get all the the very spot where two tectonic plates “Oh yeah, I was writing about Yilan. credit, my brain (specifically the lobe in (specifically the Eurasian and Philippine I think the local government booked the charge of self-preservation) makes the plates) have been engaging in a slow- room for me.” call to hop on a local train from Su’ao to motion tryst. Taiwan itself is a product of The innkeeper smiles and offers me a Hualien, thus avoiding the treacherous this blessed union, and the Rift Valley is room with a full size tub for NT$1,100. ride between the two, much of which where the two plates meet. The tub is deep, the water hot and is considered to be among Taiwan’s This morning’s tremor was evidence piped in directly from the earth. After a deadliest stretches of road. of the geological love-affair’s ongoing luxurious soak, I head out on foot to a The sky grows dark as the train winds nature, as is the topography of the small Japanese restaurant on the west side southward, and by the time I disembark town where I wind up after a day’s of Jiaoxi Park where I wind up sharing it is raining moderately. The same part casual riding. Little has changed since I slabs of sashimi with the owner’s cat. of my brain that suggested the train started coming to the Hoya Spa Hotel in Taiwan Gratitude List item 2: Kindly advises me to find shelter for the evening Ruisui 15 years ago. Roger, the owner innkeepers, inexpensive sashimi, and cats. rather than continuing south. My mobile recognizes me. app leads me to a place called The “You leading another cycling tour?” The morning is warm and humid as I Peace Prison Cafe Inn, which seems too he asks. cycle out of Jiaoxi. Yilan is Taipei’s wet- interesting not to check out. It turns out “Just me this time,” I answer. test county, its perpetually flooded lands to be an extremely kitsch prison-themed Roger offers me a room at a mid- largely divided into plots separated by hotel. The night passes uneventfully, save week discount, and I check in, unload my raised and well-maintained roads. The for a minor earthquake sometime before bike and head over to the hotel’s real star landscape is dotted with newly construct- dawn. attraction, the separate hot-spring facil- ed houses, some of them quite lovely, others the gaudy weekend homes of well- to-do Taipei residents. A few newly built bed & breakfasts taking advantage of the beautiful countryside and proximity to Taipei look inviting, but the day’s ride has just started. Gorgeous mountains rise to the west, with wisps of morning fog spilling through the valleys. To the east lies the Pacific Ocean, a few small clouds hanging over Turtle Island. These views are worthy of the ancient planet builders of Magrathea from The Hitchhiker’s Guide to the Galaxy, who existed solely to build worlds for the universe’s wealthiest beings after they had come to find their home planets tedious. Perhaps I, too, have become spoiled by Taiwan’s beauty. It’s easy enough to happen if one avoids the cities, which I’m currently doing by skirting the plains surrounding Yilan City to the east, past The pools at the Hoya Spa in Ruisui.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 51

Farewell.indd 51 2019/7/3 上午6:05 FAREWELL TAIWAN

characters mean “down horse,” but also “dismount.” As the sun is going down and I can ride no further, this seems a good suggestion. Xia Ma’s sole guest house is a renovated school with attached restaurant and many friendly dogs. The guest house is empty, but the family running the guesthouse (members of the Bunun Tribe) don’t seem all that surprised by my presence. The road is popular with cyclists and travelers heading further into the mountains to explore the area’s hot springs. “When the government completes the repairs, we expect to see more traffic. The author's bicycle gets a rest along Route 64. Until then, it’s quiet around here,” the guesthouse owner tells me, adding that there’s still plenty of road left to ride ity offering all manner of massaging and might get before being turned back by its before it becomes impassable. pummeling hydrotherapy. As I sink into cessation. It seems a worthwhile way to After eating, I settle into my room to the warm rust-colored waters, it occurs check off the unseen vista box. rest and contemplate the next day’s ride. to me that Ruisui, being close to a few of Just getting from Ruisui to the point An unexpected email invitation throws a my other favorite riding roads, is as good where the road begins (at a sleepy town potential fork into the road of my open- a place as any in which to work out any called Haiduan in ) takes ended journey: lingering existential dilemmas while still the morning and some of the afternoon. A “Mr. Brown, this is Billy from the getting in the requisite 50 kilometers a long bridge across a river bisecting much Ministry of . We’d like to day of riding. of Taitung County (the actual meeting invite you to come share your experiences I book my room for the next two point of the two tectonic plates) leads to in Taiwan at a luncheon we’re holding nights. Freed from having to lug 30 Highway 20. To the east, the road turns for a delegation from America.” pounds of gear on my bike, I spend the into Highway 9 and follows the river There’s a list attached to the email next two days zipping merrily around through the Luye highlands and into with the names and political parties of the coastal mountain range and playing . To the west, it winds up and the attendees, an even mix of Republicans tourist alongside a few dozen Chinese into the mountains before ceasing to be. and Democrats. tourists at the Baxiandong caves on the For several stunning kilometers I The luncheon is being held in a few coast and a few hundred more at the cycle, neither passing nor being passed days, enough time to make it back to Tropic of Cancer Marker. by another vehicle until reaching a tribal Taipei over known routes, less so if I con- village called Xinwubulou. A woman tinue into the uncertain terra incognita to Taiwan Gratitude List item 4: tending goats greets me. I ask her if the the west. My responsibility seems clear. I Abundant hot springs and fine (and free) road is passable to the west coast. She hit reply. roadside tourist attractions. looks at my overloaded touring bike and As I ride east back down the mountain Having achieved relaxation while shakes her head. the next morning, I begin mentally simultaneously strengthening a heart “For them,” she says, pointing to her working on a speech about how support made slack by too much time sitting at a goats. “Not for you.” for Taiwan is a bipartisan issue, and desk, only one item on my pre-leave to-do On this side of the mountains the wondering what one is meant to wear list remains unchecked. Riding south after road is gorgeous, as awe inspiring as the when speaking at a government event. two days based in Ruisui, I’m determined road through Taroko Gorge, made all to check this final item off my list. the more so by the lack of tour buses. Taiwan Gratitude List item 5: Con- Route 20, also known as the Southern A few kilometers out of Xinwubulou tinued opportunities to speak up for Tai- Cross Island Highway, is considered one the road grows steeper, an inclining wan, wherever the road ahead takes me. of the most beautiful cycling roads in ribbon of black with a riverbed to one southern Taiwan. It’s also impassable, side and high cliffs and canyons to the — Longtime TOPICS contributor thanks to earthquakes and landslides. other. The ride is at once exhausting Joshua Samuel Brown is the author Though many friends in the cycling and exhilarating. A few cars pass by, of four books about Taiwan, including community had sung its praises, reports but not many. A slow, granny-gear grind 2018’s Formosa Moon. differed as to how far along the road I brings me to the village of Xia Ma. The

52 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

Farewell.indd 52 2019/7/3 上午6:05

SEEING TAIWAN

KENTING LIGHTHOUSE A Slow Drive in Taiwan’s Deep South

hanks to Taiwan’s network of off point for excursions to the unspoiled freeways and expressways, it island called Little , this harbor T is usually possible to get from town has eateries suitable for every NATIONAL SCENIC AREA the harbor metropolis of Kaohsiung budget. At Huaqiao Seafood Market, to — 110 kilo- you can feast on sashimi, shark meat, food and cooking equipment) or desire meters away on the island’s southern and other delicacies. If you prefer more (dice for gambling, as well as tobacco tip — in a little over two hours. For formal surroundings, there are several and pipes for smoking). When paraded local people trying to pack as much large restaurants on Guangfu Road, one through the streets, the ship is believed seaside fun into the weekend as possi- of the town’s major thoroughfares. to function like a ghostbusting magnet, ble, it makes sense to drive nonstop. But Donggang’s busiest place of worship drawing malevolence and disease out for international travelers with several is Donglong Temple. The principal deity from every nook and cranny. days on their hands, or those moving here is Marshal Wen, a 7th-century During the final few hours of the more slowly on bicycles or motorcy- scholar revered for saving the life of a eight-day event, the boat is dragged to cles, the alternative coastal route offers Tang Dynasty emperor. However, the a nearby . Masts are installed and several fascinating journey-breakers and shrine is better known for organizing sails are unfurled. Symbolic anchors detours. — and being a key venue during — the are raised, and a pyre of joss paper is Highway 17 passes by Kaohsiung triennial King Ship Festival, which will heaped around the hull. Firecrackers International Airport, which is served occur next in the fall of 2021. ignite this pile of combustibles, by scheduled flights to/from Hong Tens of thousands of outsiders, initiating the sacrifice. Kong, Macao, Japan, Korea, and along with many people who grew up As the vessel rapidly burns and . If you reserve a rental car in in Donggang but moved away, will collapses, the majority of locals advance, you can pick it up as soon as attend the festival, which is possibly head home, confident that the evils you clear customs. The road then winds the most spectacular of Taiwan’s many sequestered aboard the king ship are through the southeastern corner of the folk-religion extravaganzas. being expelled from this world. Many city before crossing the Kaoping River. The festival features many “kings” tourists, however, like to linger as dawn This broad waterway not only separates (spirits believed to have the power to breaks, so they can photograph every Kaohsiung from , but prevent calamities), but only one ship stage of the ship’s destruction. also derives its name from those two — an elaborate wooden junk that is Even if you are depending on public local-government divisions. hand-built several months in advance. transportation, getting to Donggang From there it’s a short drive to The vessel is decorated in fantastic could not be easier. Many Kaohsiung- Donggang. Known as a Mecca for detail, then ritually loaded with items Kenting buses make stops in the town, seafood enthusiasts, and the jumping- its crew of spirits will need (such as and there are also frequent buses to/

交通部觀光局廣告

54 TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019

7 ST.indd 54 2019/7/4 下午9:45 SEEING TAIWAN

from . Less than two kilometers from the heart of Donggang, the waters of Dapeng Bay attract yacht owners and windsurfers. Covering 532 hectares, it is one of Taiwan’s largest lagoons. You can appreciate the scenery by join- ing a boat tour, or by riding a bicycle or e-scooter around the bay (the total distance is about 12 kilometers). Details of bike-rental shops, plus lots of other useful information, can be found on the website of the Dapeng Bay National Scenic Area (www.dbnsa. gov.tw). Some Kaohsiung-Kenting buses stop right outside the scenic area head- quarters; ask before buying your ticket. Continuing south along Highway 17, the next town is . Blessed with a number of grand old houses, it is a XIAOLIUQIU favorite spot to visit for those fascinated by architectural history. The key attrac- the father of Taiwan’s President Tsai of the 2.7-kilometer-long wall, have tion is the Xiao Family Residence, a Ing-wen was born — the coastal road survived earthquakes, typhoons, and single-story compound with 51 rooms. becomes Highway 26, while Highway modernization. No Portland cement Parts of it were built in the 1860s, and 9 provides access to Taitung and the was used during construction. Instead, even after renovation, these wings and eastern half of the island. stones were glued together with a courtyards retain a strongly Chinese Another half hour of driving will mixture of sugar, lime, and glutinous appearance. The south-facing facade, by bring you to Hengchun, a quaint little rice. Many tourists spend time atop the contrast, dates from around 1920 and town that is finally evolving from a East Gate, taking in views of the town’s reflects that era’s baroque influences. way station on the road to Kenting to hilly hinterland. The Xiao Family Residence is less a destination in its own right. All but Travelers approaching from the than 600 meters from Jiadong Railway the fastest Kaohsiung–Kenting express north are greeted by a bilingual sign Station, and even closer to Highway buses stop along Highway 26 in the that reads “The Ancient City of Hengc- 17, so one option is to arrive by train town center. hun.” Beside it, a scaled-up replica of a from Pingtung, then leave on a Kenting- Much of Hengchun’s charm moon guitar points to the sky. This two- bound bus. derives from the 19th-century stringed banjo-like instrument features A few miles southeast of the Xiao protective wall that encircles the prominently in local folk music, which Residence, Highway 17 merges with heart of the settlement. All four of to American ears sounds a little like Highway 1. At Fangshan — where the original gates, and just over half Mississippi Delta Blues. English-language background information can be found on the township’s website (www.hengchuen. gov.tw), while Pingtung County Government’s Official Travel Guide (https://www.i-pingtung.com/) has several gorgeous photos of attractions around the county. The Tourism Bureau’s website (www. taiwan.net.tw) has all kinds of useful information, while the 24-hour tourist information hotline (0800-011-765) is toll-free within Taiwan. Throughout the island, you can obtain free maps, leaflets, and travel advice from visitor information centers at airports, railway

HENGCHUN stations, and other locations.

TAIWAN BUSINESS TOPICS • JULY 2019 55

7 ST.indd 55 2019/7/4 下午9:46