101 tower dominates the Taipei skyline

Sigh of the

The city that’s become a byword for high-tech is embracing life in analogue, celebrated for butterfl y-fi lled forests, trekking trails, hot springs, short-break options, culture and cuisine. TIGER WORDS SALLY HOWARD

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S TIGERS GO, Taipei is endearingly tame. In recent years, this Asian boom town has broken away from fast-paced cousins Shanghai and Beijing to cultivate a laid-back lifestyle that’s all its own. Riverside cycle paths, tucked-away tea houses, a bookish take on hipsterdom and celebrationsA of all that’s slow-paced in culture and consumption have come to defi ne a city that, as the old Taiwanese adage goes, lives “for the aroma of books… the smell of tea”. This onus on quality of life is partly due to ’s booming, politically conscious middle class. Its rising expectations are refl ected in civic improvements that include a rapid expansion of the Taiwanese capital’s mass rapid transit system (MRT), a citywide cycle-sharing scheme, YouBike (youbike.com.tw), with daily rentals now exceeding 60,000, and projects aimed at reversing the erosion of Taipei’s natural environment. The latter include the Green Net, a citywide network of newly planted green spaces, and Tamsui waterfront, a regeneration project opening the riverside quarter’s post-war embankments and improving its pedestrian access to the city via a new “sky garden” overpass. Taipei’s greenness is a surprise to those who think of the city as an exhaust-fugged corridor of technology, sprawling west from Taipei to the city of Hsinchu. Taiwan ranked 145 out of 146 nations in the 2005 Environmental Sustainability Index Report, but the East-Asian export powerhouse has come a long way in the intervening decade, improving its ranking to No.46 out of 178 in 2014. It has managed a 60 per cent reduction in river pollution (since 2001) and a drop in bad air-quality days from 17 per cent a year in 1987 to less than three per cent in 2014. Today, butterfl y-fi lled forests, well-maintained trekking trails (through the “four beast” mountains that are the backdrop to the city) and pristine hot springs are all within easy reach of downtown Taipei. Taiwan has also become a destination for Chinese “lung-cleaning vacations”. For all of its recent greening, Taipei’s man-made attractions, culture and cuisine, are its principal draw. While the “national” artefacts of China, rather than Taiwan, are on display in the city’s National Museum of History (49 Nan Hai Road, www.nmh.gov.tw), it’s worth battling the throngs of vacationing Chinese to see its ❯ Lungshan Temple Temple in Beef noodles PHOTOGRAPHY (ALSO PREVIOUS PAGE): GETTY IMAGES PREVIOUS PAGE): (ALSO PHOTOGRAPHY

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displays of Zhou Dynasty bronze instruments, man-sized Ming tiger” years of her youth. “We grew up surrounded by the cheap TV dynasty calligraphy scrolls and Qing dynasty miniatures (a tiny sets and CD players produced in Taiwanese factories,” she says. “The carving of a cabbage in jade being the one the Chinese fl ock here for). culture youth [hipsters] are a backlash against this. They read books, Make time, too, for the atmospheric folk Taoist-meets-Buddhist they write poems and they are giving up their jobs on the corporate Lungshan Temple (Guangzhou Street, Wanhua District, lungshan. ladder to open slow coff ee shops and vintage stores.” org.tw), abuzz in the early evening with the chatter of young people Whether it’s best understood as an analogue backlash or part of a praying for success in exams and luck in love; the 89th fl oor observatory broader global trend, slow Taipei has plenty to recommend it. Keep of Taipei 101 (7 , www.taipei-101.com.tw), once the world’s your schedule light and remember, as Confucius once said of life, “it tallest building and still the place to get a sense of the city limits and does not matter how slowly you go, so long as you do not stop.” towering mountains beyond; and the 8ha Botanical Garden (53 Nanhai Road, tpbg.tfri.gov.tw) with its arbors of rare plant and tree species (1500) and rare birds. SEE & DO When it comes to cuisine, the world is your oyster – or, rather, your Ivy’s Kitchen an option. An excellent 30-minute fl uff y, fl ash-fried . Infl ected by the pork- and rice-rich Cookery School foot massage can be had for $10. diet of the indigenous Hakka, by decades of Japanese imperial rule, 446 Section 6, Zhongshan North Party World and the long-running intercommunication with the Han Chinese, Road, . kitchenivy.com Karaoke House Taiwan’s culinary culture is one of Asia’s most omnivorous, and its Ivy Chen’s half-day Taiwanese Section 4, Zhongxiao East Road, most underrated. There’s something delicious (and safe) to tuck into cookery taster course includes a Daan District. www.cashboxparty.com on every street corner and at every price-point, from the esteemed Din shopping trip to Si Dong food market The Japanese invented it, but it’s the Tai Fung (whose dumplings are folded by hand, see EAT) to delicious and lessons in cooking Taiwanese Taiwanese who took karaoke to their street eats such as deeply savoury tofu, steamed-beef sandwiches, and favourites such as beef noodle soup hearts. Taipei’s takes on the trend light and aromatic vermicelli broths. There are few Taipei experiences and handmade dumplings, followed range from bring-your-pet karaoke, that beat grazing on street food at one of the many night food markets, by a generous lunch. to couples’ erotic karaoke and singles’ the scents of grilling squid and beef broth fi lling the air. speed-dating karaoke. With fi ve In Taipei, there’s a benefi t in going with the fl ow. The Taiwanese fl oors of karaoke and a 24-hour concept of the simple life, or jiandan, takes in the joy of a hand-stitched Huaxi Street Night Market, buffet, Party World caters to all book as much as the pleasure of an ancient tea cerem ony, browsing Wanhua District. tastes. About $10 for three hours. for food and handicrafts at the Sunday Simple Market (54 Songqin Many come here for the writhing Street, Xinyi District) or lingering over a coff ee and winter-melon cages of snakes and the opportunity Elephant candy cake in a cafe-cum-art gallery converted from a Ming dynasty- to sample the snake blood and snake Mountain Trail era courtyard home, Arthouse Yard (see SEE & DO). semen said by Chinese medicine Songren Road, Xinyi District. Alex Lin, 36, recently returned to her home city after 10 years in New adherents to be an aphrodisiac. For The one-hour walk up the well- the less brave, refl exology shops are ❯ York. She sees in the Taipei’s trend for the slow a reaction to the “Asian marked Nangang District Hiking GETTY IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY:

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B For airfares to Taipei call Qantas on 13 13 13 or visit qantas.com

haute Han Chinese restaurant within 14th-century Japanese-style the National Palace Museum. The courtyard home and decorated with à la carte has some hits (prawns in retro typewriters and objets d’art, a punchy ginger sauce) and misses typifi es Taipei’s new laid-back vibe. (fallopian tubes of Asiatic grass frogs, Settle in for a couple of hours over a anyone?), but it’s the tasting menus pot of oolong, before browsing the Hot springs at Beitou inspired by the museum exhibits that retro ceramics, homewares, Geothermal Valley diners come for, including a jadeite bookshop and gallery downstairs. cabbage with bok choy and black sesame, and tender duck in honey STAY and spring onion, modelled on a Mandarin Zen master’s feast dish according Oriental Taipei to a 14th-century scroll. 158 Dunhua North Road. (2) 2715 6888. mandarinoriental.com Trail to the city and pavilion viewing Huashan 1914 Din Tai Fung This newly minted outpost of point on Elephant Mountain is a Creative Park 45 Shifu Road, Taipei 101 Mall. the Hong Kong luxury brand has favourite with romancing couples. 1 Bade Road Section 1, Zhong Zhen Xinyi District. (2) 8101 7799. everything you might expect – Set off early evening – it’s steep, so District. www.huashan1914.com dintaifung.com.tw marble-fi tted suites, a hushed, wear sensible shoes and carry water On the site of a late 20th-century It’s seen as indicative of Taipei state-of-the-art spa, and destination – for spectacular views of a darkening tobacco factory, Huashan 1914 being overlooked in the awarding restaurants and bars (thick with Taipei cityscape and plump pink sunset. Creative Park is now a warren of of international plaudits that this socialites) including the high-end independent restaurants, galleries classy steamed-dumpling and noodle Cantonese Ya Ge and the Jade Millennium Hot Spring and performance spaces – and a restaurant has achieved two Michelin Lounge, whose afternoon teas sell out six weeks in advance. From $450. 6 Zhongshan Road, . favourite with browsing Taipei culture stars in its Hong Kong incarnations, An afternoon unwinding at a hot youth. Come during the week as yet none in its city of birth (where it spring is a Taipei must. While there’s it gets crowded at weekends. has several branches). Don’t let that The Regent Taipei ruin the savour of its delicately fl eshy, no plunge pool in which to boil an 3 Lane 39, Section 2, ZhongShan soup-fi lled dumplings. Go for the egg (a current fad), the facilities at this Eslite North Road. (2) 2523 8000. remarkable truffl e versions, alongside open-air hot spring are clean and the 245 Dunhua South Road, regenttaipei.com a basket of classic spicy pork. fellow health-seekers are friendly. Daan District. eslite.com.tw In the heart of the old Japanese

Taiwan’s largest bookstore is a district of central Taipei, this hotel is Chuencheng joy to explore. Look out for English Ningxia Night Market a favourite with Tokyo businessmen. Shrimp Fishing translations of The Smiling, Proud Ningxia Road, Datong District. Great value for money at the price 471 Section 2, Zhishan Road, Wanderer by Jin Yong, Taiwan’s “Even if the emperor is at the door, point, its spa rooms with wraparound Shilin District. (2) 2841 1997. blockbuster series about a eat fi rst” is the Taiwanese attitude city views and classy penthouse Another “only in Taipei” experience, gender-ambivalent warrior, and to grazing. Bring your appetite to business lounge sell it. From $240. night shrimping is a hit with foodies hand-stitched compendiums of Ningxia, a bustling street of stalls and young locals as a good way to Confucian proverbs. selling oyster omelettes, rotisserie Charming City Hotel relax. Night shrimping operations pork knuckles, steamed beef buns 295 Section 4, Xinyi Road, Xinyi (essentially sheds around fresh EAT & DRINK with pickle and . District. (2) 2704 9546. mountain stream ponds) bead the Silks Palace www.city-hotel.com.tw mountain foothills of Shilin district. National Palace Museum. Arthouse Yard A hop-step-and-jump from Taipei 101, The drill? Bait your fi shing rod, grab a 221 Chishan Road Section 2, Shilin. Lane 32, Section 1, Dihua Street, this friendly mid-range establishment beer and wait for a nibble. Later, tuck (2) 2882 9393. www.silkspalace.com.tw Datong District. artyard.tw with elegant rooms and serviced into your haul. There’s a barbecue All the ceremony of the Ming This tea and coffee house, set apartments is popular (book at least and restaurant behind the shed. a month in advance). From $130. Dynasty court is on display at this on two fl oors of a restored A GETTY IMAGES PHOTOGRAPHY:

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