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Home , Archsum, Bargum, Barlt, Bay of Husum, Busenwurth, Eiderstedt

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4.3 Schleswig-Holstein

4.3 The Schleswig-Holstein vidual farmstead mounds. Old village mounds, Wadden Sea Region which were the center of maritime trade, lie along the river. by Ellen Bauer, Ludwig Fischer, Hans Joachim As was the case in , migrat- Kühn, Matthias Maluck & Dirk Meier ed to the north Frisian Utlande in the 8th cen- tury and again in the High Middle Ages, bring- 4.3.1 Landscape and cultural heritage ing their own culture with them – though there are no historical records providing knowledge of 4.3.1.1 Introduction the immigration. The North Frisian Wadden Sea with its islands and the make for a The coast in Schleswig-Holstein has unique landscape whose natural and cultural preserved a unique landscape and cultural-his- histories are closely and fatefully bound to one torical heritage down to the present day. Scarce- another. The numerous traces of culture found ly any other region in Europe has seen the trans- at the mudflats, mounds, wells, fields and paths formation of its land so profoundly affect its his- are the cultural legacy of a drama played out tory. Entire swathes of settled marshlands were here in the 14th and 17th centuries, when large inundated in the 14th century and the sea con- sections of inhabited land were covered by sea stantly reshaped the coastline up to early mod- water. The Halligen, unique along the entire ern times. The North Sea coastal area of North Sea coast, cropped up as small marsh Schleswig-Holstein comprises many regions: islands over the mediaeval countryside. It is pri- , Eiderstedt, the North Frisian marily the dwelling mounds which provide pro- Wadden Sea with its islands and „Halligen“, and tection from the North Sea to the present day. the North Frisian mainland marsh. Each of these Life at the sea has best been preserved here and, Fig. 4.29: regions has preserved a rich and varied cultural- although influenced by new construction and Old cisterns constructed historical heritage. coastal protection measures, has passed on a from dried bricks of peat or clay, Wadden Sea north In Dithmarschen the old sea marsh and its vil- unique architectural heritage and architectural of lage mounds with their churches, marketplaces treasures. Photo: L. Hermannsen and harbors have provided focal points for vil- lage life since the 12th century. These village mounds date back as much as 2000 years. Mounds like the ones of and Wöhrden with their characteristic churches are visible attractions on the open marsh landscape. In the Middle Ages these villages took part in North Sea trade as part of a maritime cultural landscape. To the east of the sea marsh and its village mounds long rows of settlements ranging across the formerly moor-like flatland marsh were settled by clans and formed into coopera- tive societies which maintained independence until around 1559. The early marsh to the west of the mediaeval dyke was enlarged by the con- struction of dykes dating from the 17th century. Straight lines of dykes characterize the land- scape here. There is more frequent variation of landscape The island of – heavily impacted by tourism in the north of Eiderstedt than is found in – still features significant monuments. Stone Dithmarschen. The visible remains of mediaeval Age megalith graves, Early Middle Age ring walls ring dykes with large and small mounds lying and burial grounds preserve the cultural-histori- scattered about, some with old Haubargen cal heritage just as much as the numerous (square, multi-storey buildings) are suggestive dwelling mounds and the farmhouses built upon of how this area once formed an island-like sea them. Archaeological finds and cultural trea- marsh traversed by tidal gullies. The middle sures show the far-flung maritime routes of the section of the peninsula is occupied by elon- North Sea coastal area, which in the early mod- gated rows of settlements consisting of indi- ern era profited to a considerable degree from

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trade with the and whaling. Fabu- finely delineated, is the result of a long histori- lous wealth appears in the Lilienchron poem, cal process, which – when considered from a which describes the sunken „“. Myths contemporary perspective – only brought about and literature are essential elements of the cul- results of significance over the past five to sev- tural heritage, which in the following is orga- en centuries. Human activity played at least as nized based on regional groupings of landscape important a role as did natural factors in this and historical settlement monuments and build- most recent development. ings along Schleswig-Holstein’s North Sea coast. The clear staggering of the zones mentioned A treatment of the Wadden Sea follows. Road above makes it easy to overlook the fact that the construction, the infrastructure for tourism, the entire area, i.e. islands, mud flats and mainland construction of wind parks and the industrialisa- marshes, was a unified whole from its earliest tion of the economy has transformed the cultur- formation. Its separation into distinct zones al landscape to a high degree and made it into today can be attributed to two counteractive an agricultural-industrial landscape. In the processes: Firstly, a partitioning, which ran its places where the cultural landscape has been course for thousands of years, sometimes in dra- preserved over the centuries, this may also be a matic thrusts caused by influences from the sea consequence of the remoteness of some coastal and secondly, a „unification“ brought about by regions. land reclamation and protection of this newly- gained land. 4.3.1.2 The two counteracting processes had varying consequences on these three zones of the north General remarks on topology and Frisian Wadden Sea area: Expressed in simplified landscape history terms, the effects of nature have in recent times Across the entire Wadden Sea region along the „counterbalanced each other“ as regards the western and southern coast of the North Sea, no islands and the outer sand banks. The core other section of coast features the level of vari- of these remains of glacial moraines and alluvial ety as does the North Frisian coast between the sand appear to have remained fairly constant for Danish border to the north and Heverstrom, the thousands of years. However, the massive breaks sea channel near Eiderstedt, to the south. Three on the beaches and cliff edges of Sylt show that zones, clearly staggered one behind the other, this does not apply universally to the past few can be observed today: Viewed from the west, centuries. The constant easterly retreat of the the large geest islands of Sylt and and undersea edge just off the shore of the mud flat outer sand banks of Japsand, Norderoogsand and substratum and the slow migration of the visible Süderoogsand lie along a virtually straight outer sand banks towards the mainland make it north-south line with their sandy beaches facing sufficiently clear that we cannot really refer to towards the sea. The island of Föhr, set off to the this as stability per se. Nonetheless, the dune- back, appears to be divided in two: a southern covered geest cores of the large islands represent section, similar in composition to Sylt and the oldest signs of the geology and the history of Amrum, and a northern section bearing resem- human settlement in the north Frisian Wadden blance to the marsh islands in the actual mud Sea landscape. flats. These ‘green islands’ enjoy the protective The loss of arable and habitable land in the line of the outer sand banks. Their appearance is area of the mud flats with embedded dyked clearly differentiated: the two large, marsh marsh islands and the Hallig islands (nestled in islands of Pellworm and with dykes – the space between the protected side of the the latter in the meantime having turned into a geest islands or outer sand banks and the main- peninsula due to dyke construction – and the land coast) has clearly prevailed in the course of many small, Hallig islands („Halligen“) which are the past thousand years. The marsh islands and fully exposed to the sea. The third zone is the Hallig islands as they appear today are merely mainland marsh, where a line of outer dykes runs vestiges and far smaller deposits of an area of in a relatively straight line between the Hinden- land divided by large and small watercourses yet, burg Dam in the north and Nordstrand in the for the most part, as a whole was still very much south, only interrupted by the small „outpost“ of intact as one geographical unit during the first . millennium A.D. These areas, embedded like a This impression of a clear structural arrange- flat, elongated bowl within a kind of depression ment, though varied and in the mud flats area between the – not completely closed – barriers

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of the present-day outer sand banks and geest marshland facing the mud flats. The extent of islands to the west and the geest edge of the these marshland areas on Amrum is quite small present-day mainland to the east, for the most and limited to the silt-covered land on the far part consisted of expansive moors until the Ear- sides of the „hook-shaped“ spits protruding into ly Middle Ages. The marsh of the Early and High the mud flats in the northern and southern parts Middle Ages was created through sand and silt of the island. On Sylt, somewhat larger marsh- deposits caused by repeated flooding arising land areas have survived in the middle of the from more and more frequent incursions by the island under the protection of the tongue- sea. Due to a combination of severe, catastroph- shaped sand core stretching to the east. For this ic tidal flooding and continuous erosion, these reason, marshland villages can be found on Sylt. ancient marshes have for the most part become Nonetheless, marshes are actually more charac- mud flats or, on the islands and Hallig islands, teristic of the scenery on Föhr. An old marsh pro- have been covered as newer marshes formed. tected by dykes covers well over half the island The opposite applies to the third zone, the and was, until only very recently, virtually unin- mainland marshes, as this zone owes its exis- habited and cultivated by people from the vil- tence to eight hundred years of unending efforts lages lying on the geest edge. to repel the effects of the sea. The mainland On Amrum, the sand on the sea side takes on marshes were also a part of the divided and enormous dimensions. However, only a relatively increasingly jagged moor and salt meadow areas narrow strip lying before the dunes actually between the outer sand banks and the mainland belongs to the moraine core of the island. It was geest. Here, large open areas of grassy flatlands only within the last 150 years that most of the were also gradually destroyed by incursions by sand making up the area known as the „Kniep- the sea, creating an immense number of Hallig sand“ was first deposited by the wind and sea islands, peninsulas, spits and foreshores. These into areas resembling spits and then integrated areas of arable grassland were gradually secured into the island’s main body of sand. On Föhr, the by dykes, joined to one another, drained, the sand core is limited to a very narrow, crumbling streams and tidal gullies between them dammed, strip which is constantly worn away by the sea, and areas of solid, silt-deposited mud flats revealing erratic blocks left over from the Ice merging to become an extension of the main- Age. And finally, on Sylt, there are raised por- land. The North Frisian mainland marsh thus tions of moraine sand forming cliffs which are consists of a mosaic of large and small areas of constantly being worn away by the sea. As a differing age which forms – if you will – a man- result of severe tidal floods, the geest core has made portion of landscape, and a sharp eye can been weakened to such an extent that the entire quite easily read the moving story of this unified island is in danger of being cut in two. By creat- area of settlement by observing the features of ing extensive offshore sand washes and reinforc- the landscape. ing the banks it is hoped to protect what still The differing features of the three present-day remains. zones – the geest islands and outer sand banks, As can be seen, the three islands are quite dif- mud flats with marsh islands and Hallig islands ferent from one another not only in terms of and mainland marshes – call for treatment in their geographical form, but also in their „com- separate sections. The story of how these areas position“ and the resulting visual effect. Recent relinquished their unified appearance, the pro- changes brought about by man with regard to cess of division, destruction and being partially vegetation, cultivation and, above all, construc- joined together by man, also constitutes a part tion have only served to accentuate these differ- of the region’s cultural and landscape heritage. ences. On Amrum, for example, a wooded area The Geest islands adjoins an exceptionally wide belt of dunes. This The three large geest islands of Sylt, Amrum and stretch of forest was planted after 1880 on areas Föhr are composed of three main elements, each of heath as a result of a forestation program ini- of which can be easily distinguished: stretches of tiated by the Prussian government and, since sand and dunes on the sea side (on Sylt and then, has had a considerable effect on the Amrum these areas sometimes form points appearance of the entire island. The „desolate“ resembling spits of land), sandy upland soil much appearance of the island which was to be seen of which was originally covered with heath and well over one hundred years ago has changed small, sometimes larger low-lying areas of considerably since that time. The former large

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expanses of heath beyond the dunes, the meagre of ports on Amrum and frequent moving of cultivation of the sandy soil in the east, and the entire villages on Sylt and Amrum to escape the villages (except for the village of sand of encroaching dune formations attest to assailed by the dunes) cowering on the eastern this fact. edge of the geest core have long since parted. Today, the geest islands are feeling the serious Cultivation of the land, which has long allowed effects of the growing tourist industry. On a relatively high yield to be extracted from the Amrum the health resort Wittdün, located on the geest soil by means of artificial fertilization, has southern tip of the island, was literally stamped only played a minor part in these changes. On out of the earth in a remarkably short time at the Amrum, several stages of land reform and land end of the 19th century. Villages on Amrum have allocation have slowly led to „modernization“ of been careful to preserve their historical stock of the property and cultivation structure character- buildings, above all the brick houses with ized by the division of inherited land into small- thatched roofs from the „golden era“ during er lots. which many men made their fortunes as sailors Forestation efforts on Sylt and Föhr have not in the service of others. Nonetheless, in recent played as important a role. In essence, the very decades „renovation efforts“ designed to attract narrow shape of Sylt exhibits the same structure tourists, further construction to fill the remain- as can be found on the island of Amrum, i.e. a ing gaps and now areas of new development moraine core with sections of steep cliffs facing which have been greatly expanded, especially the sea and chains of dunes covering the surface, near Nebel, have all completely transformed the lightly rolling sandy soil with regions used for appearance and character of these villages. cultivation and areas of heath which were orig- On Sylt, the characteristic scenery of the area inally quite large, and a small adjoining area of has been affected considerably by the construc- marshland. Despite these similarities, these ele- tion of buildings on large portions of the heath ments are much more sensitive to human inter- and in dune areas due to the development of vention due to the lack of space on the island. tourism since the beginning of the 20th century, On Föhr, the development of dunes is quite lim- and in particular, since the sixties. Massive con- ited. The specific composition of the island gives struction projects affecting the infrastructure, an idea of what the structure of settlement in for example a train station, airport, streets, park- the Wadden Sea area may have initially looked ing lots, camp grounds and, especially in the like after the development of sprawling marsh- dune areas, a network of paths which in places land areas. Settlements were concentrated on are quite closely meshed, have all led to a com- the geest, especially on the edges of the geest plete transformation of Sylt, leaving the island bordering the marsh. The low meadowland, with the appearance of a well-equipped resort which was in constant danger of being flooded, area. was cultivated from homesteads located on Except for the northern part of the island, the higher ground. dune belt and the proportionally small areas of The Föhr marsh was more than likely a part of land cultivation, the increase in the amount of the large expanse of continuous salt meadow- construction has, for the most part, done noth- land which, well into the High Middle Ages, ing but reduce the former open spaces to mere stretched from the geest cores and sand empty gaps between buildings. Natural elements embankments on the sea side all the way to the of the landscape dominate only in the north, in edge of the mainland geest. According to reports the area between and List and in the dating back to the 12th and 13th centuries, it List nature reserve, and in the south near Hör- was still possible to get from Eiderstedt to Föhr num. The village of , located on the side and Sylt without „getting your feet wet“. of the sand core which begins to give way to the Up until the late 19th century, the organiza- tidal flats, has been able to preserve the essen- tion and structure of the landscape on the geest tial elements of an old Sylt village. Nonetheless, islands was only to a very small extent influ- the village has been „refurbished“ to such an enced by human intervention and building extent that the historical constructions no efforts which included, for example, dyke con- longer seem authentic. struction around the Föhr and Sylt marshes. The On Amrum, it is still possible to recognize the historical development of settlements was also historical settlement structure typical of all the to a great extent dependent on the forces of geest islands, i.e. the relatively widely-spaced nature well into the 19th century. The relocation villages arranged in clusters or in a linear pattern

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on areas of the geest as well as a few individual the villages themselves to account for changes buildings, especially on the side facing the mud in building use, often leading to the replacement flats. On Sylt, however, this historical settlement of historical structures. Despite administrative structure today only exists in well-protected efforts to control development, in numerous vil- areas such as Keitum, Archsum, and, in lages these market forces have brought about an part, Munkmarsch. ever increasing disintegration of their tightly- Among the many villages on Föhr, most resem- knit, impressive character still present in the ble the geest villages of Sylt and Amrum with years after the war. respect to their historical settlement structure. In all probability, the Föhr marsh was not pro- Nonetheless, the settlements located directly on tected sufficiently by dykes until the 15th/16th the edge of the geest bordering the marsh are century. This fact would explain the presence of laid out following a pattern best exemplified by a drainage and road system which more closely . Between the main arterial road running resembles grid-like construction carried out in along the edge of the geest and a second paral- the modern era than the irregular outlines of the lel road leading through the main body of the land from the Early and High Middle Ages. geest, narrow plots of land are arranged parallel Evidence of previous settlement and land cul- to each other. These conditions all favoured the tivation on the geest islands can still be seen by development of the Frisian , a type of careful observation. The geest cores, in particu- building characteristic of these villages which lar those located on Amrum and Sylt, possess takes on a hook-formed shape („a five“) through numerous more or less well-preserved stone the addition of annexes needed for farming. tombs, burial mounds and burial and urn areas The original structure of some of the villages dating from the Stone Age up to the Bronze on Föhr, such as , Midlum, Toftum, Klin- Age. In addition, it is possible to find burial tum and , has been well preserved to the areas and traces of settlement dating back to present day. , which was strongly influ- the Viking Age. In some cases, historical land- enced by the „Frisian houses“ of well-to-do cap- marks characterize much of the scenery. An tains and sailors of the 18th century, was already example of this can be seen in the circular ram- protected at the beginning of the 20th century parts of Tinnumburg on Sylt or those of Lem- as a result of preservation efforts. Only in the becksburg on Föhr (the circular ramparts, which last three decades have the effects of the devel- can also be found in other places along the opment of tourism become evident. west coast, are defence constructions dating This development has transformed the main back to the Early Middle Ages). Other land- village of Wyk, which was initially characterized marks are so well-preserved or have been by the most important port on the island, into a restored to such an extent that they now small town which has recently become quite belong to the group of „cultural landmarks“ modern in its appearance. Nonetheless, the old- intended to attract tourists to the area. On Sylt er parts of Wyk still preserve much of the char- and Amrum, the remains of settlements from acteristic appearance of a 19th century seaside various periods in history, from the Early Stone resort. Established in 1819, Wyk is one of the Age up to the Early Middle Ages, lie hidden oldest beach resorts in . The develop- under the dunes and are occasionally revealed ment of tourism, especially in the last fifty years, by the blowing winds. Based on numerous has not only drastically transformed the village archaeological findings, it has been possible to of in the east of the island and parts of establish with a measure of certainty that the Nieblum, but the villages of Boldixum and Wrix- geest islands have been continuously occupied um adjoining Wyk as well. The policy of land for thousands of years. Moreover, it is safe to allocation in the sixties was also an important assume that there were high levels of trade and factor leading to these changes. migration, especially into the southern Scandi- Relocation of numerous farms from the navian area but also on distant shores, and that cramped villages into the Föhr marsh has farming played an important role in addition to allowed for more efficient and improved cultiva- seafaring and fishing. However, in contrast to tion of the land. However, in doing so, this relo- the amount of evidence preserved in the older cation has not only radically changed the marshes, it seems that traces of settlements appearance of the island marsh, which up to this and cultivation dating back to the High Middle point had been occupied by only a few individu- Ages and early modern era have not survived to al farmsteads, but also necessitated measures in the present day.

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The „Hallig“ islands The Hallig islands that remain are of a relatively The marsh islands in the North Frisian Wadden uniform appearance today despite their varying Sea with no defense against the sea are rem- evolution and geomorphologic characteristics: nants of a type of landscape which has been a Scattered dwelling mounds and pastures which distinctive feature over the centuries along this scarcely remain above water at high tide and are coastline. The impression they still faintly make used only for grazing – if at all. The image passed today was already being referred to by ancient down from antique history of houses appearing chronicles of the West and East Frisian regions. to float as though they were „ships at sea“ The process of an ongoing erosion of the land becomes even more eye-catching during periods which was sped up by repetitive storm surges of tidal flooding when the entire island surface over the past 700 to 800 years can be testified to is covered with water. both by cartographical records and archaeologi- Important characteristics of the conventional cal finds. Traces of settlements located on the evolution of the Hallig islands have been obliter- mud flats and which intermittently surface due ated or covered over by dyking efforts to stave to the tide-induced shifting of sedimentation off the sea. Since the late 19th century, most of demonstrate to an astounding degree that the shoreline has been secured by a layer of today’s Hallig islands are for the most part the rocks or by paved surfaces, thereby forever remnants of more recent deposits above older removing the typical island border on which marsh soil. Archaeological research and evidence swollen layers of deposits from tidal flooding gathered at excavations have proven that the were exposed to view. The larger Hallig islands once marshy land between the Hallig islands – have had low-level „summer dykes“ erected on which today has become tidal mud flats – had them as a defense against frequent tidal flood- undergone intensive use starting in the ing and most dwelling mounds are fortified by 10th/11th centuries. In various parts of the mud ring dykes or berms. This partly conceals the flats, signs have been discovered indicating the building structures which has a considerable construction of dykes, drainage systems, single- effect on the visual impact of the islands. These dwelling and village mounds with their water measures were instituted after the 1962 flood- supply facilities as well as the traces of paths tide, a milestone event which clearly marks the and roads. These traces have been found in lay- end of the „old Halligen culture“ as it had been ers dating from different periods – the Early known up to that time. Most historical dwellings Middle Ages when the first settlements were on the Hallig islands were either completely established up to relicts of the modern era’s cul- remodeled or replaced, lending the historical tural landscape, in particular those from the rav- traits of buildings that now stand on the islands ages of the storm surge of 1634. clear signs of the most recent architectural Various forms of agricultural cultivation have styles. been proven – including wide-scale farming, sys- In its overall effect, however, the Hallig islands tematic peat mining and in particular, the pro- represent a singular monument to one type of duction of salt. The three characteristic forms of landscape within the panoply of the Wadden Sea settlement on the marsh have been established which otherwise have long since disappeared. to be: Scattered single-dwelling mounds and The increasing impact of tourism combined with mound villages of a circular or elongated shape, the almost complete neglect of native agricul- linear settlements along dykes and pathways, tural farming does not bode well for the future accumulations of smaller and larger mound of the Hallig islands and to which conservancy dwellings as „communities“. The structural sig- programmes provide no alternative. Efforts to nificance of churches, frequently placed atop preserve and extend the life of the existing high mounds, can also be established for the cul- island habit therefore appear to be inevitable tural landscapes of the past at some sites. Mak- and are becoming more firmly established ing the church accessible from the outlying through such organizations as the Hallig Foun- marsh and the many tidal gullies and water dation. courses dividing it was a prime factor in the organization of daily life. There is documentary The marsh islands evidence that the ongoing „sub-division“ of land The two large dyked marsh islands of Pellworm areas resulted in the demolition or removal of and Nordstrand encompass fragments of the for- churches to other locations or the redefinition of mer island , which once covered an area communal or parish boundaries. of more than 20,000 hectares. This island was

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almost totally inundated in the frightful flood where, in part significantly altered the appear- tide of 1634. More than two-thirds of the popu- ance of built-up areas as well as a number of lation drowned and most houses and churches stretches of land. were destroyed or so severely damaged that they Due to the formation of the Beltringharder had to be abandoned. through the building of dykes, Nordstrand The exceptionally fertile and rich island of has in the meantime become a peninsula. The Strand had already been substantially reduced in land areas of the new , almost without size by the earlier expansion of the marshland. exception as a result of environmental protec- Above all the inundation of 1362 (the so-called tion regulations, display a landscape that is „Manndränke“) had turned large parts of the unusual in the Wadden Sea area and is otherwise Rungholt region in the south into mud flats. The only found in the Hauke-Haien-Koog near history of dyke building on Strand and then Pell- Bongsiel: extensive areas of water on the inside worm and Nordstrand is one of the most event- of the dyke, extended reed beds and apparently ful and revealing stories of using, securing, los- „wild“, only sparsely grazed meadow land. ing and regaining profitable marshland in the Even more than Pellworm, Nordstrand’s pre- Wadden Sea region. On Pellworm and Nord- flood features reveal the impact of the planned strand, nowadays secure, the processes involved redyking that was carried out in the 17th and can still be reconstructed from historical fea- 18th centuries. A bird’s eye view of the old pold- tures of the landscape. er, which survived the floods of 1634, still The Pellworm parish (Harde) was one of the reveals the form of an island. However, the entire three administrative districts of the island eastern side of the island is marked by straight- Strand. In 1634 it lost its entire land area, with line dyke courses, streets, and water drainage the exception of parts of the western dyked systems. As a result, only in the eastern areas. By 1687 large polders had been reclaimed the older patterns of settlement are still to be through the building of dykes. In the following found – characterized by a few individual mound centuries further dyke building led to a step-by- settlements and the more frequent rows of set- step increase in the size of the island. tlements along the inner dykes. The catastrophic As a result of these historical developments effects of the floods of 1634 can still be seen Pellworm now makes an overall impression of from the remaining buildings: The church of being a unitary marshland environment with Odenbüll was the only one to survive the catas- many internal dykes. However, the characteris- trophe, and a number of major buildings from tics of the individual polders are visibly different. the 17th and early 18th centuries provide evi- The oldest areas lie in the west, where the most dence of the step-by-step rebuilding of dykes distinctive feature of land is the irregular struc- and resettlement, which was strongly influenced ture of the old marshes. The newer polders show by the Dutch. the effects of planned land reclamation and divi- sion, culminating in the northern Bupherverkoog Mainland marshes polder, which was enclosed by a dyke in 1938/39 The North Frisian mainland marshes between the and shows the typical characteristics of the for- Danish border in the north and the geest spit of malistic dyke-construction policy of the Nazi -Schobüll-, which projects to period. the mud flats in the south, can be divided – in In the older sections of Pellworm the structure simplified terms – into two sections: the wide of settlement is characterized by the contrast of area north of Langenhorn and , which large, widely separated single-farmstead from the air displays a very irregular structure mounds and linear patterns of building along the with a number of different elements, and the inner dykes or on their crests. There are no cen- narrower southern part, which is characterized ters of inhabitation worth mentioning. In the by a strip of long narrow polders arranged paral- east, adjoining the old harbor – which in the lel to the coast, and only with the Hattstedt meantime has been partly replaced by an off- Marsh in the south ends with irregular forms shore ferry harbor that is linked to it by a mole – again. a small centre of settlement organized around In the northern part, deep bights mean that tourism with communal institutions and areas of the geest edge is a long way from the coast in new building development, has developed in some places, so that the marshes along the Tammensiel and Ostersiel. The modernization of courses of the Wiedau/Süderau and the Soholm farming activities has, on Pellworm as every- meadowlands penetrate more than 20 or 15 km

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respectively inland, whereas they are only 12 km Klanxbüll, as well as the scarcely smaller settle- wide in the vicinity of and only about ments of for instance Toftum, Großbombüll, 5 km near Langenhorn. The very active history of Nordhörn, Hesbüll and many others, are built on the securing of individual stretches of land former Hallig mounds. In some cases it can be through dykes, their linking up and the increase shown that the first settlement occurred during in the land area through systematic secondary Roman times (Toftum, Horsbüll). The former dyking is still clearly visible until today through Horsbüllharde thus belongs to the small number the characteristics of the individual sections of of ancient marsh settlements that still remain in the North Frisian mainland marshes. North ; its modern form – with a few mound villages, a large number of smaller and Wiedingharde (Wieding parish) larger individual farmsteads and a network of The old administrative district of Wiedingharde internal dykes – dates from the High Middle (previously Horsbüllharde) has in wide areas Ages or the early modern era. retained the appearance of an „amphibian land- In the northern part of the Gotteskoog polder scape“ (Theodor Möller) the longest: until the the landscape is similar. However, the courses of extensive drainage projects of the 1920s, wide the network of earlier sea dykes that in some areas regularly lay under water during the „wet places form a very fine mesh show how difficult periods“. The farmsteads in the entire eastern it was to dam the various channels, which ran section of the parish – the over 10,000 hectare between a large number of marsh islands and large Gotteskoog polder between Neukirchen connected the mud flats and the salt marsh area and Uphusum or and Niebüll – were of the present-day Gotteskoog polder with the not only referred to as „Halligen“ (Großhallig, open sea. As a result, a few of the farmsteads on Vogelhallig, Hattersbüllhallig and so on), but de the old island mounds in this region show traces facto they really were inland islands. Despite the of harbor construction. fact that the links of these islands to the open All in all, however, the present-day character sea had already been cut off in the 16th century of the Gotteskoog polder is determined by the by the building of dykes, they were so low-lying extensive drainage and development measures that it was impossible to make the land that had of the 1920s and 1930s. Large, straight sluices been reclaimed completely secure in an exacting and equally straight roads divide the surface process of dyke-building involving heavy losses. area. The farm settlements dating from the Nazi The large Bundesgaard or Gotteskoog Lake even period that are systematically placed along the had Hallig islands in their middle which had an connecting roads dominate broad stretches of island character all year round. the polder, which in its eastern and southern While in the east a marsh landscape stretched sections seems less developed in comparison along the geest edge until into the 20th century with the northern „Halligland“ (marsh island that was similar to the marsh regions through- region), and displays the monotonous uniformity out during the Early Middle Ages, of the planned, modernized agricultural industry. the western part of the parish consisted of a The afforested areas which – as in the case of marshy island, the old Wiedinghard Koog, which Aventoft and Kahlebüll Lake – were planted on was finally dyked from all sides in 1465. This land not suitable for agriculture, make a partic- island, the old Horsbüll parish, itself constituted ularly alienating impression. the remains of larger marsh areas of which The cultivation of the Gotteskoog polder con- - above all in the northwest – whole parishes tinued until the 1960s. In the course of the „Pro- had been lost up until 1400. The oblong shape of gramme North“ the drainage and dyke-building the island running in a north-south direction is measures (among others the Gotteskoogdeich easily recognizable on maps, and the course of between Emmelsbüll and Niebüll) were pushed the old enclosing sea dyke on which a road now ahead, land improvement measures intensified runs – except in the western part – marks off and above all the remaining inland lake areas quite distinctly the difference between the old drastically reduced. In the 1980s, measures marsh of the island, with its relatively early aimed at returning the land to its natural state dykes, and the areas in the Gotteskoog polder reversed the land reclamation process, so that that were enclosed much later. today large swamp areas and expanses of water, The dyked island of Horsbüllharde arose out of above all the Gotteskoog Lake, are once again island or Hallig mounds in the marshes: The large the elements that shape the character of the mound villages of Emmelsbüll, Horsbüll and landscape.

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However, the Wiedingharde has also experienced the line of villages on its edge almost forms a striking changes in the west in the direction of closed circle. This remarkable landscape monu- the Wadden Sea. The very narrow fore dykes of ment is cut through by a railway line and a high- the new Wiedingharder Koog still belong to the way, and as a result of the development of laborious security measures of the western rim Niebüll into a small city has experienced such a of the old parish. However, the Friedrich-Wil- striking imbalance that the impression of a uni- helm-Lübke-Koog, which was enclosed in dykes tary island is now hardly recognizable any more. in 1954, displays the square pattern of a „mod- Of the many island mounds around Risum- ern“ land reclamation measure – it was the last moor and the mainland geest after the disas- large-scale measure of this kind in North Frisia. trous floods of the Late Middle Ages – remnants The polder, with its completely „unnatural“ geo- of the broad moorland and marsh areas between graphical structure, gives the impression of the seaward barriers and the geest edge – three being shut in between the old and the new sea larger ones have been integrated into the main- dykes. Since 1982 the most striking contrast to land marshes since the 15th century: Galmsbüll, this is the adjoining Rickelsbüller Koog north of Dagebüll and Fahretoft. The old polders of Dage- the Hindenburg Dam, which is exclusively main- büll and Fahretoft still today clearly display their tained as a conservation area with large expans- origins as Hallig islands, with mounds on which es of water between the dykes. small houses stand packed close together in In recent decades, modernization measures of some places. On other mounds larger individual various kinds have also strongly influenced parts farmsteads have taken the place of small-scale of the Wiedingharde. These range from new building. A significant number of other old island housing developments that have significantly mounds such as Bollhaus, Schweinehallig, Trolle- altered the landscape, above all in Klanxbüll, büll or Süderweygaard, which into the 1970s had Rodenäs and Neukirchen, to new buildings that changed little, are located in the polders which do not harmonize with historical structures any underwent dyking on a continual basis. more. The frequently intrusive modernisations of To these prominent elements of the former old buildings, not confined to those used for Hallig island structure of extensive areas must agricultural purposes, have a similar effect, and be added the characteristic pattern of linear set- have in some places truly altered the form of, for tlements on the former sea dykes, which in the instance, the traditional linear settlements along course of reclaiming the land became internal the old lines of dykes. The clustered groups of dykes. Most striking is the „Holländerdeich“ run- wind-powered electricity generators also pro- ning through Fahretoft, which was constructed duce a completely altered landscape. The chains during the extensive damming of the Bottschlott of middle-sized machines in the Lübke-Koog Channel. Extensively modernized cottages and almost give the impression of a single industrial small now stretch for kilometres on plant, while significant parts of the old land- it. The building structure on the neighbouring scape also offer a completely altered picture as a Gotteskoogdeich in the north, on the Mitteldeich result of the new, dominant technological scene, or the Kaiserkoogsdeich is less homogeneous. as for instance in the Toftum-Südwesthörn area. The third defining component of the landscape in the Bökingharde – and occupying the largest Bökingharde (Böking parish) area – are the large polders which have been The land areas of the Bökingharde, south of the built since 1465 in order to reclaim land which Gotteskoogdeich, are also in great part the result had been occupied by the sea. To the east, of the linking of old Hallig mounds through dyke beginning with the Klixbüller Koog and the construction and the reclamation of further Große Kohldammer Koog, which converted the stretches of land that had been destroyed by the Risummoor to dry land again, numerous dykes sea in the Middle Ages. However, the Böking- were built, at times in rapid succession. These harde possesses a „stable core“ of a special kind: were the most successful land reclamation mea- South of Niebüll the almost circular Kornkoog is sures of the late 17th and early 18th centuries. a cultivated high moor from the Early Middle The land areas of the old and the new Christian- Ages on a flat geest island which during the Late Albrechts-Koog as well as the Kleiseerkoog, Middle Ages was temporarily surrounded by which became arable as a result, belonged to the incursions of the North Sea and had to be pro- most fertile marshlands of all. The geography of tected by the building of dykes. Until farming these polders is determined by the systematic began the island was known as Risummoor and land development (roads, paths, drainage sys-

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tems) and the substantial individual farms on ly used for agriculture and contains a major the flat mounds, most of which originally occu- inner-dyke biotope in its large rainwater reser- pied three or four sides of a square and almost voir. For centuries drainage via the large had the character of the estates of a ruling class. „Bongsieler Kanal“ was the most important reg- Today, many of them have lost their original ulator of water levels for the entire parish. The function and some are partly in ruins or have point where this canal terminates and flows into been reduced in size through demolition of a wide tidal gully can be counted among the buildings. However, the wooded mounds still most „picturesque“ tableaus of the North Frisian divide up the farmed areas lying around them coast. Today the new sea dyke, with a road on that are otherwise as flat as a board and in some the inner side and a pumping station at places have been consolidated into gigantic Schlüttsiel – at the same time serving as the industrialized landscapes. The impression made harbor for ship traffic to the Hallig islands – by these polders forms a stark contrast to that offers a remarkable contrast to the wide, „natu- made by the old „Halligland“. ral“ expanses of water and reed beds of the rain- With the Marienkoog the series of dyke enclo- water reservoirs. sures was completed in 1798 and a fairly straight line of dykes established between the Karrharde, Norderharde and Südergoesharde old Horsbüllharde and Dagebüll or Fahretoft, The three old parishes of Karrharde, Norderharde until the ideologically driven land reclamation and Südergoesharde show a less varied structure policy of the National Socialists led to construc- of their marsh regions than the Wiedingharde or tion of two new polders closer to the sea (Neu- the Bökingharde. They mostly consist of geest – Galmsbüller Koog and Osewoldter Koog). The in particular the Goeshardes have only a rela- characteristic pattern of their development and tively narrow belt of long polders on the geest settlement structure, as well as the sentimental- edge. In the northern section in the lowland ly patriotic architecture of the buildings, distin- meadows of Soholm, the marshy areas push guish these clearly from the older polders. quite far into the interior. stands as the Due to new housing developments and con- western „outpost“ of an old Hallig island in the struction of industrial areas, erection of large dyked areas. However, from the Ockholmer Koog public buildings and the build-up of the neces- southwards to the Hattstedt polders the marsh- sary infrastructure, especially transport, the cen- es show a comparatively uniform structure: In tral town of the parish, Niebüll, which had been the Late Middle Ages the geest edge was also the thoroughly „restored“ and modernized in an coast of the Wadden Sea almost everywhere, but urban style in the 1980s, has largely lost its links from the 15th century the coastline was moved to the historical character of the surrounding westward step by step through the enclosure of landscape. Remains of old buildings still worthy the foreshore within dykes – which in this area of mention are only to be found in Deezbüll, was also settled and farmed land. In the Bredst- which had been incorporated into the parish and edt Bight long narrow polders running in an until after the Second World War retained the almost north-south line were built in the 18th character of an intact „Frisian village“. century. These were the indirect result of a failed The ferry harbour Dagebüll and Niebüll, con- attempt in the 17th century to enclose the Bred- nected through a railway line, form an „axis“ of stedt Bight between Ockholm and the Hattstedt modern touristic infrastructure. Dagebüll Har- Marsh within a single dyke. The stages of the bour has in the meantime developed into a more gradual enclosure by dykes were completed with and more completely planned service centre for the Sönke-Nissen-Koog (1923-25). Its strikingly the ferry traffic to the islands and the Hallig „modern“ structure not only differs from the islands. The extended building activity and con- admittedly systematic but nonetheless small- nection to the transport network, together with scale system of land division in the older polders, the loss of characteristic old buildings, now but in addition displays the land reclamation completely hide the fact that it is situated on the efforts of the National-Socialist period through seaward tip of an old Hallig island. This is only its use of the main road as a central axis and the made evident by the dwelling mounds lying fur- row of individual properties stretched along it. ther inland and away from the built-up roads. The buildings in the Sönke-Nissen-Koog repre- Inland of Fahretoft and Ockholm the Hauke- sent what was really the only attempt to impose Hayen-Koog was enclosed in 1959 to further a uniform, at the time contemporary, architec- straighten the dyke line. This polder is only part- tural style on an entire housing development in

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the marshes. The exceptionally fertile polders Near Hattstedt the geest projects into the mud along the Geest have only a few large flats in the form of a moraine spit. This means farmsteads – in the older polders many of the that, after the dunes of St. Peter-Ording have historically significant buildings have disap- been secured through dykes, parts of Schobüll peared or been drastically altered. Due to the represent the only remaining dyke-free section very sparse population, the systematic nature of of the North Sea coast. As a result of afforesta- the land development and in some parts the very tion programmes in the once-dominant heath large fields, the polders of the Hattstedt Bight areas, the forest has here advanced right up to present the picture of gigantic, well-nigh the coastal areas. Its unique location has monotonous agricultural areas between the lines entailed building measures on a large scale in of the dykes. Schobüll, which completely hides the character- Today the impression has changed radically istics of the old town. By now, the buildings of due to the rows of wind farms running parallel Schobüll constitute an almost closed line to the to the dyke line. They represent a sudden „surge suburbs of Husum. The old marsh village of of modernization“ that is in stark contrast to the Hockensbüll and the Porren Koog before it traditional characteristics of the marsh land- already belong to the outskirts of the city. scape’s visual picture – the absolute domination Schobüll also shows evidence of prehistoric and of horizontal lines and the radical „openness“ of early settlement. During the dredging of Husum what seem to be endless open spaces. This is a Harbour – as is emphasized again and again – particular challenge in the case of the polders of the remains of a rib from the hull of the oldest the Bredstedt Bight, because the unusual height boat ever known (about 8000 B.C.) were found. of parts of the geest edge (north of Bredstedt, Settlement of the Wadden Sea region by man where the is 44 m high) offers a is thus of enormous historical significance. But it unique view over the marshes as far as the is the North Frisian section of the Wadden Sea Wadden Sea. region which shows through its unique structure Along the geest edge the marsh is practically and contemporary landscape conditions how the uninhabited. The village of Langenhorn, which extraordinarily changing, in part extremely stretches kilometres along the road, shows most localized, very varied interaction between „natu- clearly the cultivation of narrow strips of land ral factors“ and human activities has created a stretching from the geest edge. We can assume cultural and geographic system in which dis- that a similar basic structure prevailed from the parate elements have grown together and the earliest phases of use of the open marsh and resulting combinations contain complex pat- salt meadow areas and, as a result, it is not sur- terns of destruction and separation. prising that the geests of the three parishes have yielded numerous archaeological finds 4.3.1.3 The Wadden Sea of Nordfriesland from prehistoric and early times. A peculiarity of the Nordergoesharde are the When flying over the Wadden Sea area of North two Hallig islands of and Frisia at low tide, traces of earlier land cultiva- Hamburger Hallig which are linked to the main- tion, farming and settlements can be seen on the land by connecting dams. Both are remains of eroded banks of tidal gullies lining the mudflats the island Strand which was destroyed in 1634. or in areas where the mudflat substratum has Other Hallig islands in this region have either been worn away by the flow of water. The disappeared or been integrated into the main- remains of ditches used for drainage and soil land through the building of dykes. improvement are the most common traces which Hattstedt Marsh, located south of the Bredst- appear. However, it is also possible to find the edt Bight, also features the remains of old Hal- remains of roads and dykes, mound bases, wells lig island settlements in the closely divided and cisterns constructed from dried bricks of polders in the west. But in the east it is also peat or clay, pits and stakes used for various pur- characterized by broad unsettled areas that are poses as well as areas used for the mining of cultivated by farming communities on the geest. peat for fuel and salt. Since 1987 the newly enclosed Beltringharder Walking out onto the mudflats, it is possible to Koog stretches along the sea dyke of the Hattst- date some of these structures, known locally as edt Marsh and turns Nordstrand into a peninsu- „Kulturspuren“ (traces left by cultural develop- la. It is mainly a natural preserve, with large ment), with the help of archaeological evidence. rainwater reservoirs serving as biotopes. In this way, it is possible to reconstruct the

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course of earlier land development and settle- dwelling mounds and dykes became necessary ment and to outline the general contours of the due to the increasing influence of the sea. These development of land cultivation in space and protective measures also enabled lower-lying time. Archaeological and geographical research areas to be settled and led to the expansion of has shed light on the complicated interplay settlement and cultivation of the coastal marsh- between human manipulation of the environ- land in the Late Middle Ages. ment, a rising sea level, and the increasing fre- Beginning in the 14th century, things began to quency and severity of tidal flooding. At the change dramatically, in particular due to a same time, interdisciplinary cooperation has severe tidal storm, known as the „grote Man- shown that the morphological development of dränke“, which occurred in 1362. Severe tidal this coastal landscape cannot be fully under- flooding in the Late Middle Ages and in the ear- Fig. 4.30: stood without knowledge of the composition of ly modern era engulfed the entire Rungholt area Old cisterns in the Wadden Sea of Nordfriesland the geological subsoil and, in particular, the con- as well as a large portion of the settled and cul- Photo: L. Hermannsen sistency and strength of the Holocene sediments. tivated marshland. In this way, the settled and cultivated area was re-transformed into the very mudflats from which it had arisen. Numeros findings and artífacts as well as a wealth of historical sources recording the histo- ry of this amphibious environment and its settle- ment have been preserved to this day. Nonethe- less, nothing in this area can survive unchanged. Erosion and sedimentation processes bring about continual change which, at the same time, both aids and hinders the documentation effort. In general, experience gathered in recent decades has shown that destruction of these cultural signs, or „Kulturspuren“, in the Wadden Sea Area continues to advance and that there is indeed reason to make immediate use of these cultural signs for research into the history of the land and its settlement before they disappear forever.

According to the information currently avail- 4.3.1.4 Eiderstedt able, the history of settlement in the coastal marshland seems to have taken the following The Eiderstedt peninsula, approximately 30 kilo- course: meters long and 15 kilometers wide, borders the Numeros individual findings from the Early North Frisian Wadden Sea to the north and the Stone Age and Early Bronze Age suggest that estuary of the Eider river with the adjoining around 4000 years ago the area of today’s Dithmarschen coastal area to the south. To the islands and Halligen had already become a place east, the peninsula’s marshes extend to the edge of intense traffic and was probably even settled of the geest near Husum. An elongated sand at that time. However, the land was never occu- embankment, broken by the incursion of the pied for extended periods due to the increasing Süderhever tidal gully, extends across the west water levels which made settlement of the area of the peninsula. The churches of and difficult and prolonged stays undesirable. , visible from a long distance, are located It was only after the geest islands had been re- here. colonized by Frisian settlers that settlement of Tall ridges of sand also extend northwest of selected marshland areas also began in the 8th Tating at Tholedorf. Another sand embankment century A.D. The regions of choice included the runs in a north-south direction in the area of area around Pellworm-Hooge, the Föhrer marsh . This embankment originally extended as well as today’s northern mainland marsh further to the north, but was carried away as a located between Horsbüll and Emmelsbüll. result of tidal storm flooding in the Late Middle Favorable environmental conditions initially Ages. These different sand embankments, exist- allowed settlement on flat ground. It was only in ing no earlier than 3100 years before now and the High Middle Ages that construction of frequented since the Stone Age (Harck 1980,

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Austen 1992) facilitated the draining of the By the beginning of the 2nd century the first com- marshes. High embankments formed (Meier munities of farming settlers in Tofting built their 2001) along the Eider, which at that time had a long houses on flat platforms of sod at an old smaller estuary and followed a more winding bend of the Eider on an embankment 1.45 course as it flowed into the North Sea. Since 500 meters above sea level. A series of probes and B.C. moors have developed in the area north of small surface digs carried out by A. Bantelmann the Tating-Garding sand embankment as a con- (1955) point to the formation of a village mound sequence of insufficient natural drainage. After with a diameter of approximately 200 meters the advancing sea had to an increasing degree from the integration of individual dwellings, broken down the system of sand spits and geest which were relatively constant in their location formations, which acted as barriers, in the and gradually rising on debris. This site was south-west area of the present-day North Frisian abandoned at the beginning of the 5th century. Wadden Sea, the moor areas in the north of The alternating build-up of layers of debris and Eiderstedt were inundated and covered with sed- alluvial deposits reveal Tofting to be an example iment (Meier et al, 1989). At the turn of the 1st of the ancient type of slowly rising village century A.D. low marshes formed, dissecting the mound of the 1st century. The economy of the numeros systems of tidal gullies into little settlement was based on subsistence cattle rais- islands. The advance of the Süderhever to the ing on the salt meadows. The utensils and tools north, by no means a catastrophic event, for daily living were made domestically, yet finds breached the elongated sand embankment of Roman terra sigillata indicate interregional between Garding and Tating, allowing the Fall- trading contacts. Today, the large village mound, stief channel to encroach from the west to form visible from afar, lies deserted, partly covered by a connection to the Hever. This is how the struc- a stand of trees. Because it was preserved under ture of the peninsula landscape as we know it favorable conditions, Tofting is a cultural-histor- today came into being, comprising three „Hard- ical monument of early marsh settlement. en“ (administrative districts) since the Middle Around the village mound block-shaped corri- Ages: Eiderstedt itself on the east of the penin- dors recall the old lands, traversed by tidal gul- sula along with Tönning, the islands of Utholm lies. The old bow-shaped course of the Eider is and to the west including the vil- still distinguishable as a depression to the east of lage of Tating and the island-like Everschop, dis- the mound. As was the case with Tofting, the vil- sected by numeros tidal gullies, with its suburb lage mounds in Pernör and Tönning were con- Garding. structed in similar fashion and became regional The natural development of Eiderstedt influ- centers (Meier 1996). Other large village mounds enced the history of its settlement and to a high in the area of the Eider estuary, such as Elisen- degree the formation of the present-day cultur- hof (Bantelmann, 1975), Welt (Meier, 1997) and al landscape. The peninsula can be divided into Olversum came into existence in the Early Mid- three regions, each with its own characteristic dle Ages. The founding of these mounds is tied to pattern of settlement of great individual signifi- the Frisian immigration in the 8th century. The cance. early mediaeval section of the Welt village • The area of the high sea marshes along the mound is still discernible as a large mound. The Eider estuary with its high village mounds and present-day village and church lie on the neigh- the remains of old Celtic block fields. boring mound, erected in the Late Middle Ages. • Central Eiderstedt with long rows of low farm- At Elisenhof excavations of the marsh settle- stead mounds as typical U-shaped marsh set- ment from the time of the Vikings (Bantelmann, tlements with elongated row (expansion) cor- 1975) provide the best example of an early ridors. mediaeval settlement with several farms relying • Island-like west and north Eiderstedt, dissect- on cattle raising. Elisenhof is a village mound ed by old tidal gullies and the incursions of the near Tönning that is no longer easily recogniz- sea, with its irregularly spaced large and sin- able as such and was eventually partly covered gle-farmstead mounds and small-scale dyking by new building construction in the 1960s. Sev- in the form of ring dykes. eral long houses from the 8th to the 10th centu- Along the Eider estuary groups of farming set- ry were located on the slopes of an embankment, tlers came across high shore embankments, near a side channel of the Eider. The surrounding whose salt meadows presented the economic area was dominated by salt meadows, of which potential for agricultural use (Behre 1976, 60 ff.). today only small remains have survived along the

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North Sea coast. Other settlements, drainage tically protected by an encompassing dyke and fields and treasure finds from Roman times and the adjoining regular striped fields framed by the Early Middle Ages lay on the sand embank- drainage ditches. Smaller dams („Sietwenden“, ments at St. Peter-Ording, Brösum, Tating and moor dykes) mark off the different areas of Garding (Meier 2001). drainage. The remains of old „Wölbäcker“ (marks In the 1st century A.D. central Eiderstedt was on abandoned farmland) parallel to the channel characterized by drainage problems in the flat- ditches attest to the remains of an old method of lands, when low-lying areas were turning into field-grass rotation agriculture. Elevated Wöl- moors. Only inland water induced the inhabi- bäcker (as protection from ground moisture) tants to marginally raise their low-lying settle- have today become meadowlands. The moor dis- ments which, because of the unfavorable land, appeared entirely as a consequence of its were only inhabited for short periods of time drainage. (Bokelmann, 1988; Meier, 2001). Whether the In the Middle Ages the island of Utholm development of these small settlements is relat- stretched across what is now the southwest of ed to the enlargement of the farms on the village Eiderstedt. Both the island and Westerhever mounds is a matter of conjecture. The swampy (Haefrae) formed a single „Harde“. Reports in flatlands were completely avoided in the Early the record of royal land holdings of Waldemar Middle ages. While settlement in the 1st centu- II for the year 1231 documenting the existence ry remained dependent on local environmental of the island „Holm“ (Aakjaer 1926-1949) sug- conditions and were non-disruptive to the natu- gest that it was only after this time that the ral surroundings, the opportunities for settle- island was connected to the Eiderstedt penin- ment and cultivation changed completely from sula by means of a dyke construction through the Late Middle Ages. New methods of farming, the tidal gully system of the Süderhever. In the knowledge acquired in the Netherlands about west, the natural dunes, which today are cov- the drainage and cultivation of large moor areas ered predominantly with pine trees, created a and a burgeoning population combined with the natural protection zone near St. Peter-Ording. immigration of other groups of settlers provided The church villages of Tating, Ording and St. the impetus needed to settle the moor area Peter, which date back to the 12th century, are (Meier 2001). situated on sand embankments or sands which In the Middle Ages an extensive dyke, only served as a starting point for the expansion of parts of which are preserved, enclosed the cen- cultivation and settlement into the marsh. Tat- tral section of the Eiderstedt peninsula. This dyke ing has been able to preserve much of its orig- construction enabled the drying-out of the inal appearance while St. Peter and Ording have swampy marsh by regulating the drainage of suffered under the influence of tourism to the inland water. area. This extensive dyke construction encompass- The settlement patterns in the marshes of the ing parts of the two „Harden“ of Eiderstedt and former island are characterized by occasional Everschop is comparable to the Westfriiske large mounds supporting several farmsteads, Omringdijk, completed in northern Holland in such as Ehst and Medehop, as well as several the year 1320. A „Harde“ is an administrative single-farmstead mounds dotting the area. Block district consisting of several villages or farm- fields reveal traces of the island’s old cultivation steads in Schleswig-Holstein. The construction fields, now traversed by tidal gullies. The remains of this dyke took place under the influence of the of the island’s mediaeval dykes have only been counts of Holland. The reason for its construc- preserved in the east. The Süderhever, which sep- tion and frequent reconstruction is not only to arated Utholm from Eiderstedt, was enclosed by be seen in its function as protection against tidal a dyke in the 12th/13th century (Prange 1986; floods, but can also be attributed to its regulat- Meier 2001). In the marshland regions of the ing the drainage of inland water. This also Süderhever, small dykes were initially built on applies to Eiderstedt, although to a lesser degree. the seaward side before several dykes were then Even today the scenery of the region around Old- constructed in perpendicular fashion to dam enswort, Witzwort and Ülvesbüll is distinguished what was only a small tidal gully in the Middle by farmsteads extending in long rows on small Ages. This is still made evident by the remains of mounds (made of clay to protect from inland dykes and traces of fields in the area. Numeros water, less often made of peat). These farmstead breaches in the dyke (with pools formed behind mounds are found in the marsh and characteris- the dyke) testify to the tidal flooding which

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threatened the marshes well into the early mod- dykes ran along the banks of the wide Fallstief ern era. channel for which dykes were built around 1456. The power of the sea to transform the land- The ring-shaped dyke protected the farmland of scape becomes particularly evident when exam- several large and single-farmstead mounds ining the northern part of the Eiderstedt penin- which were partially integrated into the course sula. After the North Sea had partially disman- of the dyke and connected by roads („Löhnen“) tled the barriers provided by the geest cores in to other large mounds. On some of the large the northwest and the sand embankments in the mounds, such as Helmfleth, old livestock water- south, new clay was deposited in northern Eider- ing holes have been preserved. The church of stedt throughout the large areas of marshland. Poppenbüll, recorded in documents dating back At the turn of the 1st millennium A.D., areas of to the 12th century, is situated on a high mound marshland resembling islands and crisscrossed located roughly in the middle of the polder. by numeros tidal gullies began to form. Cultiva- Stretching to the north and east of St. Johannis tion and settlement of these areas first started in Koog, additional small polders (, the 11th/12th century (Meier et al. 1989; 1996; Mimhusenkoog) can be found whose mediaeval 2001). During the first phase of colonization, dykes have also been well-preserved. There are clay was used to create large mounds which also large and single-farmstead mounds on some were quickly enlarged to support several farm- of these polders. steads. These large mounds are characteristic of Improvements in dyke construction beginning today’s landscape, such as Sieversbüll and in the 15th century allowed larger channels Stufhusen in Eiderstedt, Osterhever or Helmfleth (Fallstief, Nordereider) to be dammed. The cours- and Hundorf near Poppenbüll, and closely resem- es of these channels, such as the Fallstief in the ble in their construction the mounds located on northwest of the peninsula or the old Norderei- the Halligen of North Frisia. The building of der in the east, can still be detected today by dykes in a small area of the farmland character- observing the arrangement of the farmland. In ized by block fields allowed the construction of contrast to the dykes from the Middle Ages, individual single-farmstead mounds scattered dykes constructed by the ducal dyke master across the newly gained land. Analysis of botan- builders since the beginning of the early modern ical remains taken from excavations on the Hun- era were no longer built with consideration giv- dorf mound provides evidence supporting the en to the natural surroundings. Instead, the fact that construction of higher mounds had dykes cross the marshland in long, straight lines. become a necessity. This, in itself, suggests the Within these polders, such as Alt-Augustenkoog, influence of large amounts of salt water in the which was enclosed by dykes in 1611, well- High Middle Ages. Today, older channels which ordered rows of farmland extend from one end have partly reappeared naturally in the area to the next. The farmsteads are situated in rows (Fallstief, Kraueltief) still reveal the former cul- on the flat earth or on relatively low mounds. tural landscape that was divided into small indi- Beginning in the 16th century, dykes were con- vidual polders in the middle of which occasional structed for increasingly larger bights (polders in church mounds (Poppenbüll, Osterhever, Wester- the area of the Oldensworter Bight) and incur- hever) were thrown up. Evidence of previous sions of the sea (Nordereider). At the same time construction of dykes with flat sides facing both however, areas of cultivated land, such as Lun- the sea and land has been found in several exca- denbergharde, were continually re-transformed vations (Meier et al. 1989; 1992; 1996; 2001). into mudflats due to severe tidal flooding. As a The families and communities living on the large result of subsequent dyke construction on the mounds and organized into parishes seem to sea side, dykes built in the Middle Ages partially have begun work to enclose their farmlands with lost their original protective function. The many dykes largely on their own initiative. With its extensive settlements constructed on these well-preserved settlement structure, farmland dykes attest to this fact. design and dykes as well as a tidal-gully system The early modern era also brought improve- that can still be easily discerned, northwestern ments in transportation, which is shown by the Eiderstedt represents one of the best-preserved creation of a boat connection from the sluice examples of a cultural landscape containing harbor of Kating to Garding. Maritime trade with mediaeval monument and landscape ensembles. distant lands was carried out from the port in The most striking is represented by St. Johannis Tönning which today has preserved much of its Koog (polder) whose northwestern and western historical structure. In contrast, the embank-

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Fig. 4.31: Estuary of the river Eider with village mounds s uilometer Q P I †ill—ge2G2town2mound hifferent2types2of2dwelling2mounds q—ußEurüger2proje™tion2qerm—ny2zone2Q 5 5 vegend istu—ry2of2the2‚iver2iider with2†ill—ge2wounds H x 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 55 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 55 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

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ments of the former walled city and the ducal disappeared, several larger farms have been castle had already been demolished in the early forced to abandon production and independent modern era. craftsmen are no longer to be found in Wester- Today’s cultural heritage of the Eiderstedt hever. In addition, there is no longer a school, peninsula still gives a sense of the historical village store, post office, poorhouse or forge. The dimensions of the landscape. Traces of settle- community reaps little if any profit from the ments with village mounds up to 2000 years old increasing number of tourists who come on day- located along the Eider, small ring dyke systems trips, especially to Westerhever Sand west of the in the north of the peninsula or the extended U- island. Despite the many historical facets of shaped marshland settlements with farmland Eiderstedt’s cultural landscape which have been arranged in well-ordered rows still characterize preserved, the area is nonetheless exposed to the the scenery of the area. forces of change. Thus, Eiderstedt is a region of exceptional diversity, character and beauty which has suc- 4.3.1.5 Dithmarschen ceeded in preserving its cultural heritage to the present day. Some exceptions, however, can be The Dithmarschen coastal area, with its sea seen in the regions around St. Peter and Ording marshes facing the Wadden Sea in the west, which have been heavily developed for tourism. stretches from the estuary of the Eider river in In places where the cultural landscape has been the north to the estuary of the river in the best preserved, a thousand-year seclusion has south. The Bight separates the Dith- effectively thwarted any lasting change. The marscher Nordermarsch from the Südermarsch. development of Westerhever attests to this fact. In the east are wooded old moraines dating from The island, which until well into the 15th centu- the Saale Ice Age, with boggy lowlands between ry was protected by a ring dyke, was connected them that reach as far as marshes stretching to by dykes to the mainland after a dam was con- the west and linking up with the Wadden Sea structed on the Fallstief channel. Today’s land- (Meier 2000). Since the Middle Ages Dith- scape with its old, block farmlands, watering marschen has been part of the three northern holes and winding shapes of former tidal gullies Elbe districts of Saxony and was recorded by used as drainage ditches is still characterized, Adam of Bremen about 1075 as „Thiadmaresga- just as it was 1000 years ago, by the large ho“. In the 9th century the area was protected by mounds (Stufhusen, Sieversbüll) and single- the circular ramparts of the Stellerburg in the farmstead mounds dotting the area. Nonethe- north and the Bökelnburg near Burg in the south. less, the houses and farms are now hidden by Both sets of ramparts are still clearly visible trees to break the force of the wind, giving the today and are outstanding cultural monuments. impression of being in a rolling landscape of a By contrast, the semicircular wall of , park superimposed upon a horizon line created southwest of the geest rim near Burg, is already by the course of the sea dyke (Fischer 1994, 21). severely worn away. Around 1850, the marsh in Westerhever still Unlike North Frisia, as a result of the land- resembled the landscape of the Halligen with its scape’s pattern of development , the cultural farmsteads lying unprotected upon the mounds. heritage of the Dithmarschen coastal area lies Despite the losses of historical structures and inside the present-day sea-dyke. The contempo- the newly planted trees, the preservation of the rary cultural landscape of the Dithmarschen scattered settlements can be attributed primari- marshes, as it has been shaped by humans, can ly to the fact that Westerhever was considered be divided into three sections: to be the epitome of seclusion well into the 60s. • The old sea marsh which was enclosed in dykes An indication of this is that until 1960, many in the High Middle Ages, with its substantial homes still had no connection to the water and village mounds power supply. This state of affairs began to • The low-lying Sietland, which was made arable change as people from the city began purchas- in the Middle Ages, with its elongated linear ing farmhouses and tourism was developed. In settlements the course of a good hundred years, Westerhev- • The new sea marsh with its modern dyke con- er has lost three-quarters of its inhabitants. In structions the last thirty years alone, the population has The North Sea reached the edge of the Dith- lost another half of its inhabitants (Fischer marschen old moraines for the first time 6500 1994). Almost all of the smaller farmsteads have years ago as a result of the post-Ice Age rise in

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Fig. 4.32: Embankments in Süder- dithmarschen s uilometer R P i—rly2wediev—l2„ime v—te2wediev—l2„ime i—rly2wodern2„ime wodern2„ime hwelling2mound q—ußEurüger2proje™tion2qerm—ny2zone2Q 5 vegend hyke ƒüderdithm—rs™hen H in˜—nkment2in2wodern2„imes2G2 x 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 55 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5 5

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the sea level, and penetrated deep inland in the settlement with several agricultural operations form of a bight. With the slowing of the rise in came into existence along a tidal gully. Because the sea level about 4500 years ago, a line of the sea marsh was only just above sea level, demarcation between land and sea formed as these had to be built on mounds. In the 2nd cen- sand and gravel were carried down from the tury the settlement area was raised substantial- interior of the geest and deposited to form sandy ly with clay. By 300 A.D. the mound was aban- spits running from north to south, on which doned, apparently because the low-lying land dunes built up. Places like St Michaelisdonn or became excessively briny as a result of frequent are situated on these spits. To the east, flooding. the low-lying areas that had been cut off turned A resettlement of the Dithmarschen sea into bogs, to the west the oldest sea marshes marshes – carried out by groups of Saxon farm- formed about 2500 years ago and quickly ing settlers – began in the middle of the 7th cen- extended westward (Hoffmann et al 1997; Meier tury. In the following years village mounds were 2000). established which today, due to their well-pre- After the sea marshes had probably been used served history spanning over a millennium, as pastureland by the inhabitants of the settle- belong to the outstanding cultural monuments ments on the edge of the geest since the pre- of the Dithmarschen coastal region and consti- Roman Ice Age, the first colonization of the old tute principal features of the landscape. marsh occurred early in the 1st century A.D. The In Norderdithmarschen the sea marsh extend- Dithmarschen coastal region thus belongs to the ed further to the west. High salt meadows along oldest settled sea marshes in Schleswig-Hol- the tidal gullies were first used for settlement. stein. The surviving mound settlements from this This is evidenced by excavations in time in Norderdithmarschen stretch out in a long Wellinghusen, one of the most impressive Early north-south line. Further west, a second line of Middle Age village mounds in the Schleswig- settlements came into existence starting in the Holstein coastal region. The low, rounded sub- middle of the 2nd century. Even today, building sections of this village mound, which fell into activity still follows this linear pattern of settle- disuse in the Late Middle Ages, makes it possible ment. to imagine how a substantial village mound Higher marsh areas around Tiebensee, about 2 came into existence over many generations, km west of the geest rim near , allowed evolving from the linking-up of individual farm- conventionally shaped farmsteads at ground lev- stead mounds. The well-preserved layers from el to be built which had to be raised up on the 7th to 11th centuries have a thickness of up mounds in the 2nd century (Hoffman et al 1997; to 4 m. From the middle or the end of the 7th Meier 2001). As excavations in Haferwisch show, century a ground-level settlement of several low mounds built up of clay were formed here on agricultural operations came into existence low reclaimed sea marshes. Increasing water- alongside a tidal gully. From the early 9th centu- logging and the beginning conversion of the ry this was raised to form farmstead mounds marshes lying some distance from the coast into linked to a larger village mound that was con- bogs may have been one of the reasons for aban- tinually raised until the 14th century (Hoffman doning settlement. By the 3rd century signs of a et al 1997; Meier 2000; Meier 2001). depopulation of the Nordermarsch are increas- In the 10th century settlement became inten- ingly evident. Only in the vicinity of the mean- sive, as the example of the village mound of Has- dering course of the Eider river do village senbüttel north of Wellinghusen shows. Around mounds appear to have been built for settlement 1100 A.D. a long chain of village mounds over a longer period of time, as the villages of stretched from the Eider in the north to the Elbe Hemmerwurth and Flehderwurt suggest. in the south. These are notable points of interest Further settlements from the period of the in the sea marsh still today, above all the villages Roman Empire were located in the South Dith- with churches, even though a growing number marschen sea marsh near the coast. Despite this, of wind farms begin to spoil the beauty of the here settlements also existed on the banks of landscape. The establishment of churches in the tidal gullies, as the example of shows. marsh is documented since the 12th or 13th Extensive excavations have revealed that marsh century. These were built in the middle of the vil- settlements of the Roman Empire have survived lage mounds, as the ones in Marne, Wöhrden as the foundations of village mounds from the and Wesselburen show. Wesselburen and Middle Ages. In Süderbusenwurth for instance, a Wöhrden still display parts of their characteristic

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Fig. 4.33: Former island Büsum

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medieval layout even today, with a church in the Sietland marshes („Wische“). Here the character- center, a market, plots of land radiating out, and istic clan farming settlements that are so typical a surrounding ring road. of Dithmarschen developed (Jarrenwisch, Tödi- In addition to this type of circular village enwisch, Wennemanswisch, ). The broaden- mound with a church in the center that is com- ing of landholdings carried out by these cooper- mon in the North Sea area, square mound vil- atives and legally-constituted societies in the lages with a chessboard structure also remain Sietland moved outwards from the village from the 11th and 12th centuries, as the exam- mounds of the sea marsh, and was completed by ples of Schülp, Büsum and Büsumer Deichhausen about 1400, as the building of churches in the show. Modern building patterns and the infras- Sietland shows (Neuenkirchen, Barlt). Since tructure of tourism – as in Büsum – have large- water was drained off, the bog-land disappeared ly defaced or destroyed the original appearance and the cultural landscape which now domi- of many village mounds. nates the inner area of the old marsh, with its A third kind of mound from the High Middle long linear settlements and their adjoining strip- Ages can be seen in the long narrow mounds like fields extending ever further into the waste- and Reinsbüttel, which are reminis- land, emerged from the natural landscape. Rem- cent of early mediaeval mounds of a similar kind nants of the old Sietland bogs are only to be in northern Holland and . As in the found in a protected habitat area called „Weißes case of the mound village Wöhrden, these had Moor“ in Norderdithmarschen. small harbors through which maritime trade To the west of the mediaeval dyke line, which took place. has only been partially preserved, areas of land Cooperatives operating in the mound villages were reclaimed by the construction of polders and organized into parishes began to enclose the (so-called „Köge“). Their higher sea dykes per- sea marshes within dykes in the 11th/12th cen- mitted establishment of farmsteads at ground turies. Around 1100 a long sea-dyke parallel to level. For instance, large areas of Süderdith- the coast was completed to protect the Norder- marschen marsh were enclosed by dykes to form marsch and the Südermarsch. Unfortunately, the in the 17th century and the only remnants of this first sea-dyke still exist in the 19th. Here, as in the Wes- today, for instance near Schülp in Norderdith- selburener Koog, two watering places involving marschen and in Süderdith- cattle troughs surrounded by a circular dyke marschen, and its exact course can only be esti- have survived, built on the land stretching out in mated by the shape of the fields. front of the dykes in the same manner since the To the west of this dyke the island of Büsum early modern era. After the Friedrichskoog had projected far into the present-day Meldorf Bight. been enclosed within dykes, in 1854 a harbour Its seaward marsh areas have again been re- was built in front of the drainage lock, with an flooded by the Wadden Sea since the 14th cen- 80 m long plank wharf for cargo-carrying sailing tury, as a result of catastrophic tidal flooding. In ships and fishing cutters. As a result of the con- the second inundation in 1634, 168 people were nection to the railway system in 1884 the impor- drowned in Büsum and 102 houses were tance of the cargo trade diminished, whereas destroyed. Near the church lies the old harbor, that of the fishing industry increased. In 1934 originally purely a freight harbor until, in 1881, the harbour was secured against tidal floods the fishing industry that is now so typical for the through construction of the dyke enclosing the location began with the first fishing cutters. Dieksanderkoog with its large sea lock. The Diek- In the east of the old island, dykes from the sanderkoog, with its row of farmhouses along a Middle Ages with numeros pools formed behind long connecting road, offers the perfect example the dyke make it possible to trace the stages of of a typical dyke enclosure of the 1930s. the process of connection with the mainland by The previously agrarian landscape in the vicin- means of dykes (Prange 1986; Meier 2000). ity of Brunsbüttel has had to give way to mod- Right up to the early years of the modern era the ern industry. Completion in 1895 of the North flood tides flowed in to the height of the church. Sea-Baltic Sea canal with its sea-locks meant a The building of dykes had far-reaching conse- strong upsurge for the little town, whose popu- quences for the marshes: The sea marshes were lation rose from 709 to 5500 in 1939 and has protected from the direct influence of the sea reached 13000 today. Brunsbüttel owes its eco- and regulation of the internal draining of water nomic significance to its position on the North permitted extensive settlement of the boggy Sea-Baltic Sea canal, whose old sea locks form

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part of our maritime cultural heritage. In 1950 4.3.1.6 The quality of the cultural the DEA petroleum company moved to Bruns- landscape in the Schleswig-Holstein büttel and in 1978 Bayer followed. Wadden Sea Region The building of modern roads, the touristic infrastructure (Büsum), industry (, For the first time, the LANCEWAD project deliv- Brunsbüttel) and the erection of numeros wind ered an overview of the cultural heritage of the parks have converted parts of the Dithmarschen west coast of Schleswig-Holstein in digitized coastal region into an agricultural-industrial and form. With this report it is only possible to offer technological landscape. Despite this, areas of some thoughts on the evaluation of this cultural substantial cultural significance have survived. heritage. A more detailed evaluation requires The most outstanding monuments are the large further studies. The cultural heritage can be village mounds, which have preserved a history characterized under four headings („archaeolo- of settlement going as far back as a thousand gy,“ „historical buildings and monuments,“ „cul- years with finds of exceptional quality. As tural geographical values,“ and „landscape archaeological finds show, by the Early Middle images“), using three criteria of quality: „conser- Ages, the population of the village mounds was vation status,“ „integrity of a system and context already participating in the maritime trade of the elements,“ and „representativeness“. It is between the Franks and the Frisians, which orig- through its individual characteristics that the inated in the trade center of Dorestad near cultural heritage of a landscape can be recog- Utrecht, covered the North Sea coastal region nized. Goal-directed evaluations of landscapes and extended past Dithmarschen and North such as J. Geissler’s (1999) study of Norderdith- Frisia as far as Ribe. In the 14th century, mound marschen are essential for making sound deci- villages such as Wöhrden had trade contracts sions to protect the environment. with the cities of the Hanseatic League. The Sietland landscape is characterized by North Frisia (Nordfriesland) long chains of linear marsh settlements that North Frisia is a landscape of extraordinary vari- even today make it possible to recognize the ety. In the Wadden region, with its periodically orderly agricultural development of the Middle dry phases, the traces left by cultural develop- Ages. The building of dykes and the draining of ment (churches, dwelling mounds, wells, farm- the land was organized by cooperatives, which land, dykes, ditches, archaeological finds) con- functioned as hereditary power centers and pre- tribute to a unique, representative heritage of served the independence of the region against vanished portions of the Utlande cultural land- foreign noble rule in numeros conflicts (Hem- scape. However, these sources of historical mingstedt 1500). Even today the local popula- knowledge of the landscape and its settlement tion feels strong bonds to its history. Dith- cannot be preserved permanently, for they are marschen’s cultural heritage is thus held in high threatened above all by erosion. Numerous regard as a part of the cultural heritage of the dwelling mounds are preserved both on the North Sea Region. marshes of the mainland as well as on the islands of Nordstrand, Pellworm and Föhr. This is also true of the Halligen islands which are unique within the entire North Sea region. Buri- al grounds and circular-walled castles on the islands of Sylt and Föhr are also important archaeological sources. Variety is also a special characteristic of the North . The irregular distribution of dwelling mounds with their surrounding block- like fields on Pellworm are reminiscent of the old sea-marshes with their network of tidal gullies, while in Nordstrand the long chains of farmstead mounds take on a form that is typical for the formerly extended boggy areas of the interior of North Frisia. On both islands the variety and his- torical importance of the landscape are as well preserved in the shape of the fields, the dykes

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and the distribution of settlements as in parts of Dithmarschen the North Frisian mainland marshes (Wieding- Although Dithmarschen belongs to the regions harde). of the Schleswig-Holstein North Sea coast in The many areas of land reclaimed through which the conversion of rural areas to an agri- polders bear witness in an impressive way to the cultural-industrial landscape has clearly left its struggle of human beings against the sea. Some mark, the cultural heritage has essentially been of these are of great individual significance preserved. Especially impressive are the large (Sönke-Nissen-Koog). The structural remains, mound villages in the Dithmarschen coastal especially the buildings, are of great variety and region, with its 2000 year-old extremely well- particularly worth documenting. The heritage of preserved layers of settlement. Like the Early city buildings is preserved in North Frisia in Middle Ages circular walls on the edge of the places like Husum, Tönning and to geest, they number among the most important a degree not otherwise seen in any region of the archaeological monuments of Schleswig-Hol- North Sea coast of Schleswig-Holstein. stein. Together with the surviving system of tidal It is true that the impression of North Frisia as gullies, the Early Middle Ages mound villages a wide, open land has persisted until today, but between Wesselburen and Wöhrden in the Dith- wind parks are disturbing the landscape in some marscher Nordermarsch show very well the regions. structure of the old sea marsh. Unfortunately, the structural remains on the village mounds as Eiderstedt well as in the remaining landscape have suffered Eiderstedt presents a marsh landscape of high badly. The dykes from the Middle Ages, like the individual significance. In the northern part of sluice channels, an important documentation of the peninsula the marsh landscape, which has the cultural landscape wrought by human hand, been settled since the High Middle Ages and have in part been destroyed in Dithmarschen but boasts great historical interest (St. Johannis- can still be recognized along the original dyke Koog, Westerhever, Osterhever), is characterized line they once traced. Breaks in the dykes with by ring-dykes, block-like fields, irregularly dis- surviving pools formed behind the dyke, as on tributed multiple and single-farm mounds and the old island of Büsum, add to the historical old systems of tidal gullies. Sites of archaeolog- significance of the dykes from both a cultural ical interest (mounds, dykes), cultural and geo- and environmental point of view. graphical elements (the shape of fields, tidal gul- Thus, the mound farmsteads on the inner side lies) are extremely well preserved here and make of the old marsh from the High to Late Middle it possible to recognize the mediaeval cultural Ages can be regarded as having high structural landscape. The different small polders make it significance. Their distribution as long north- possible to follow the history of dyke-construc- south rows of mounds, coupled with the straight tion in the region. It is true that the localized sluice channels running in an east-west direc- planting of windbreaking trees has changed the tion, show the conversion of the boggy low-lying landscape from an open marsh region to a park- marshes into agriculturally useful environments. like area, but despite this the marsh region is one The polders in Süderdithmarschen are character- of the most impressive of the Schleswig-Holstein istic for land reclamation policies instituted in North Sea coast. The mediaeval structure of long the early modern era. linear settlements with elongated fields project- Dithmarschen is, however, one of the coastal ing from them remains intact until today in the regions where there is a high incidence of aes- central part of the peninsula (, Üves- thetic conflict between nature, cultural tradi- büll, Witzwort) and represents the pattern of tions and modern technology. Because of the land development during the High Middle Ages. broad vistas offered by the landscape, the large The area around the estuary of the Eider river, number and the high concentration of wind with its mound villages dating back as far as parks have decisively altered the aesthetics of 2000 years and the historical city ensemble of the coastal region displacing the once-dominant Tönning is also of great significance. Apart from village mounds and their churches as the princi- a few exceptions, the structural heritage in pal features of the landscape. Eiderstedt is well preserved. Particularly charac- teristic is the form known as the „Haubarg“.

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4.3.2 Cultural heritage of agrarian is similar to the type found here, while the North buildings German bay , the house commonly found in the Dithmarschen geest and the south- ern geest of North Frisia, also springs from this 4.3.2.1 Introduction style of building. The regions of North Frisia with the Eiderstedt Around 800 A.D. the settlers inhabiting the peninsula and Dithmarschen along the western were Frisians. More Frisian immigrants coast of Schleswig-Holstein feature a coastal came to the area in the 11th/12th centuries. margin of mud flats stretching from the Danish Traces of Viking settlement indicate an early border near Wiedau all the way to the estuary of influence exerted on the region by the Scandina- the Elbe river and are divided by an ancient nat- vians (). In the 16th and 17th centuries ural boundary, the Eider river. The Eider follows a colonists came from the Netherlands (Eiderst- winding course through the geest ridges of the edt/Nordstrand/Friedrichstadt) and in the 18th old moraine into its wide estuary. Despite this century East Frisian colonists also came to help the area also displays geological features com- build dykes and settle the Kronprinzenkoog in mon to the region as a whole, with a shared his- Dithmarschen. With them came an influx of tory of settlement that fascinatingly unfolded in building styles – „Haubarg“ (square, multi-storey different ways within each region. It is thus building), the „Barg“ and the East Frisian probably helpful to start by providing a broad gulf longhouse. By building their typical North overview of the entire region’s forms of settle- German bay hall houses on new settlements in ment and house construction. Dithmarschen’s geest, the North Elbian Saxons, Since recorded history, this marshland land- whose settlement of the Schleswig-Holstein scape and the adjoining geest ridges have been interior is documented, were pivotal in the utilized as a farming region. This has not development of the farmhouses there as well as changed to the present day. The focus will there- in the Dithmarschen marshlands. In Dith- fore be on considering the current state of farm marschen, the structure of these Saxon houses dwellings as they represent living history and came to be blended with the later gulf house of cultural legacy. the Frisians. The settlers came into the area along the rivers The cultural heritage of agrarian building in and tidal gullies and began farming the land and the regions described in this publication cannot raising livestock on the pasture meadows as ear- be portrayed without considering the trilateral ly as the 1st century A.D. Their homes served as influences stemming from West and , animal stables and living and cooking areas for the Netherlands and the stretch of land between the family. Evidence can still be dated to around , North Frisia and Dithmarschen. 800 to 1000 A.D. of this type of low, narrow, hip- roof thatched house supported by an interior 4.3.2.2 Nordfriesland – the mainland frame structure. The building was divided into including the geest, marsh three sections with the living area lying at right and Hallig islands angles and the stables extending along its longi- tudinal axis. The district and its settlement structure The longest partly excavated longhouse was Churches and parishes found at the marsh settlement of Elisenhof on The district of North Frisia with the islands and the Eiderstedt peninsula. Capable of accommo- Hallig islands off the coast was established as a dating 30 „large animals“, it dates from the Ear- newly formed political unit in 1970 by combin- ly Middle Ages and measures 32 m in length. ing the former districts of Südtondern, Husum The buildings are constructed in close proxim- and the Eiderstedt peninsula. Common econom- ity for mutual protection. In Archsum on the ical and cultural forms evolved under the provin- island of Sylt, a row of parallel houses on an cial authority of the Dukes of Gottorf from 1544 east-west axis still exists to this day. Beneath – 1720 and also under the Danish crown from this are four documented layers of settlement. 1720 until the region became a part of the Prus- Wind protection and the mound’s proportions sian province of Schleswig-Holstein in 1864. The have always defined the features of the site. The region is made up of the Wadden Sea tidal wet- low Uthlande longhouse native to the islands land on the North Sea coast, the marsh land- and marsh foreshore in North Frisia, which was scape consisting of 171 polders which resulted built up to the second half of the 18th century, from dyke building and drainage systems built

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Fig. 4.34: Road village Langenhorn

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from the 12th century until the present day, and churches. The convenience of living on the geest finally the geest ridge running from north to verge meant farming and animal husbandry south. The district’s subdivision into so-called could be carried out profitably on the plots of „Harden“ (administrative districts) took place in marshland as well as the upland geest – both the 12th century when the area was ruled by the only a short distance away. Danes. The chronicler Saxo Grammaticus called Langenhorn in Nordergoesharde is a fine the region „Frisia minor“. Several farming villages example of a linear village with plots of land lin- made up a parish and several parishes a Harde. ing the village street. On both sides of the road These divisions and terms continue to be used longhouses, farmsteads and narrow plots of land today. Wiedingharde, Bökingharde and Karrharde face each other symmetrically, their borders set are still administrative districts. off by ditches. The island villages of Midlum, The first parish churches were established in Oldsum, Oevenum and Wrixum on Föhr also the 12th and 13th centuries. The architectural demonstrate the same principle, which is still value of these structures is considerable because preserved today. However, as was once the case the scale of building efforts and traditions of in Niebüll, there are two paths permitting access those times are preserved from a period from from either side, with smaller paths leading off which no secular buildings still exist. Valuable to the geest, the farm sites and the marsh. The interior fittings, especially Romanesque bap- upper path to the geest remained dry, even at tismal fonts, Gothic altars and pulpits dating high tide. from the 16th and 17th centuries have been pre- Beginning in the 16th century, the dukes served. began to exert more control over the foreshore. The large island churches – for example the Following the example set at Nordstrand, where „Frisian Cathedral“ of St. Johannes in Nieblum re-dyking of the island was completed after the on Föhr – served as a guide to sailing vessels tidal surge of 1634, the duke imposed an agree- near the shore and also demonstrated the afflu- ment on the new settlers from the Netherlands ence of the Frisians in the Middle Ages. This was which led to the erection of many new dykes. acquired through trade in cattle and salt and Individual farmsteads are the rule on the through their role in the Golden Age of Dutch mounds. Former Hallig islands which now form whale and seal hunting in the 17th and 18th part of the mainland, such as Waygaard, Fedder- centuries. swarft and Dagebüll, but also Stuffhusen on The small Hallig hall churches exude the Eiderstedt, have retained their distinctive Hallig charm of modest simplicity. Churches of this architectural style to the present day. As a means type can now also be seen in the middle of the of protection from the prevailing winds, long- polders (after dyking enclosed them – e.g. Ock- houses all face to the west, standing in single file holm, Westerhever and Osterhever). These along one axis, lending the villages along the churches often have a separate low wooden bel- edge of the geest a unique appearance. With fry pedestal (Hallig , Hooge and Langeneß) each succeeding year, detached homes encroach or belfry (among others, , Kold- on the centuries-old layout of the villages with enbüttel, Bordelum and ). In keeping no overall plan guiding their construction. Klock- with Frisian architectural style, many churches ries (Bökingharde) and Büttjebüll (Nordergoe- have an entrance on the north and south side. A sharde) – serving as representative examples small lime-tree shaded village church from the from a much larger number of communities – 12th century located in the geest village of have a well-preserved village structure with (Südergoesharde) is also noteworthy many farmsteads still intact, although they will here. Its floor and ground plan are in the tradi- eventually need to be listed on the national reg- tion of early Carolingian hall churches from the ister. The restoration of these village buildings period of early Christianisation in this region and (windows, doors, roofing) is worth considering. are probably similar to those found in England The „Anton Andersen“ house in Klockries – where and Ireland. The nave and square chancel are restoration has been carried out on the basis of separated by a triumphal arch with entryways historical findings from the 18th and 19th cen- along the north and south walls. There is also a turies – is an impressive example of such a pre- wooden belfry erected at a later date. served building (Fig. 4.46). The geest bordering the marsh was the pre- Husum is the seat of local government. ferred location of settlement from the very Osterkamp square, today the site of the local beginning – and was also favored as the site for government, was once the large regional stock-

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yard and served as the stock mustering site for hall during the 20th century (1986) at the slip- fattened cattle in the autumn or lean cattle in way of Husum’s shipyard. The exemplary variety the spring for the entire region as well as for the of the city’s historic layout is part of the local Jütland peninsula after Danish approval of architectural heritage. exports in 1783. From here and from the Hallig Among the oldest bourgeois homes are those islands and geest, lean cattle were brought to built by Husum’s mercantile class with their market in cattle drives of 1000 lasting ten days. trademark Hanseatic style characterized by a In the summer the cattle grazed on the rich two-storey hall, counting room, living area in the meadows of the surrounding marshlands. upper floor and attic below the high saddleback Trading companies in Husum dealt in grain roof. Only a few of this type have been preserved with the Netherlands via Amsterdam and the in Husum whereas there are many extant in Rhineland, as well as carrying on trade in cattle, Friedrichstadt. Classicism frequently brought cheese and butter from 1847 to 1888 through changes to the appearance and design of build- shipments to England via the Tönning harbor. ings built during the Baroque period. Thus many The large warehouse of 1783, located at the Tön- bourgeois homes – especially homes erected ning harbor, serves as a reminder of the Eider during Late Classicism – can be found within Canal which was an early passage connecting these cities, whereas only a few Baroque façades the North Sea with the Baltic Sea. The existing such as the home of Theodor Storm’s parents in port facilities – today there are grain silos at the Husum still exist. Violent intrusions that defaced outer harbor in Husum – are signs of the large the cityscape took place during the Gründerzeit farm owners’ affluence and self-esteem, where- both here and elsewhere. The addition of more as the larger part of the population were fight- city streets and changes to the old city center ing to survive in penury. carried out during this construction boom are symptomatic for the appearance of cities in this Bourgeois and ducal buildings area. The oldest market towns of Husum, Friedrich- In Tönning stepped gable buildings were con- stadt, Tönning and Garding were granted civic cealed by non-descript façades. These buildings rights in the late 16th century and the beginning are older than the buildings of the Classical era of the 17th century under the duchy of the Got- from the harbor area which were built after the torfs (Tönning 1599, Garding 1599, Husum 1603 great Husum fire. In all communities, the small- and Friedrichstadt 1621). The cityscapes bear est buildings with windows either facing out common cultural traits derived from Danish, from beneath the gable or the side are a Dutch and finally German influence, and demon- reminder of the life led by the poorest members strate the steady growth of residential areas of the population – the fishermen and laborers. with bourgeois homes over a number of different A single window and low door directly below the periods. The oldest buildings still extant date eaves speak for the meagre needs of these peo- back to the founding of the city. Upon receiving ple. There are buildings of this type on the west civic rights, in Garding, for example, a „Rek- side of Husum and its „Osterende“, as there are torschule“ (demolished in 1985) and a court- in Garding und Tönning as well. house were built, the latter a long structure with The ducal buildings in Husum are the best pre- windows on the gable side built using large served thanks to financial support from the „cloister“ brick with a Gothic frieze gracing the national registry of landmark sites. Outstanding eaves beneath its high saddleback roof. It is structures bear witness to bygone periods while largely preserved. The building structures, brick- also underscoring the chasm of power dividing work and roof structure and even the wall ties the bourgeoisie and the duke. These include the often date back to earlier times than would be castle outside Husum, completed in 1577 – 1583 assumed by looking at the façade. The interior of in Dutch Renaissance style with red brick alter- Husum’s city hall, built in 1601, was restored to nating with light-colored sandstone, the white- reveal the completely preserved hall with heavy washed gatehouse from 1612 and the cavalry oak beams and frescos, while the façade was house in the castle park where the monument to covered over with brick in the 1970s in accor- Theodor Storm also stands. dance with evidence of the prevailing style dat- ing from the Baroque age and Classicism. It The landscape heritage of agrarian buildings should be mentioned here that Husum commis- The Uthlande longhouse/Angular buildings and sioned the construction of a prize-winning city four-sided farmsteads/The Geestharden

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house/The „Haubarg“ (square, multi-storey hip roof. Hay was also stored outdoors in four- building)/The North German bay hall house post sheds with an adjustable roof or in A representative order of rural buildings in haystacks. North Frisia can most easily be conceived of if Additional siding with rafters slightly extend- the two basic types of building found here are ed the width of the house, while early use of sod presented: In the Uthlande, a coastal marsh area, walls, mud-wall with hurdle-work and wooden Hallig islands and islands settled by Frisians, one walls (both within and without) gave way to finds the Uthlande house (Fig. 4.45). The so- walls of masonry, and wooden siding in the gable called Geestharden house is found in the villages was succeeded by brickwork. On the Hallig of throughout the geest and along its edges (Fig. Langeneß – standing side by side on the Ketels 4.47). dwelling mound – the homes „Haus Tadsen“ dat- Both types of house and their extension to ing from 1741 and „Haus Sönnichsen“ now form large farmsteads are one of the most dis- house a museum and are examples of an Uth- tinctive features of the landscape, and bear the lande house with a joist-supported inner frame unmistakeable stamp of North Frisia: Red bricks, structure. „Haus Olesen“ of 1617 at the open-air white windows, doorways and gates, thatch- museum in Wyk on Föhr is another example of covered hipped-roofs. However, the deteriora- this type of house. tion of building substance, the abandoning of The later style dispenses with the inner frame farmsteads, structural changes foreign to the structure and can be found at many places in the original architectural style remain dangers these area as a small farmstead, a cottage or an arti- structures are exposed to. san’s or fisherman’s house. Additions made to The prototypical Uthlande house is a small, this type of house – depending on the kind of narrow bay house with a joist-supported inner farming being done – were completed by adding frame structure separated into a stable and liv- a barn or stable with a hayloft supported by a ing area – in the event that a major storm and similar inner frame structure, but with the half- flooding were to take the walls and roofing off timbering at a higher point. the building the wooden frame structure would The earliest known example was the Axen remain as a final haven to protect the inhabi- house in Lindholm, erected in the first half of the tants of the house. One bay marks the distance 17th century. (Braun/Strehl, 1989) It had a barn between two rafters. It resembles the rectangu- annex running parallel to the original building, lar longhouse of the Iron Age and Early Middle with an entry at right angles. This house is pri- Ages found in archaeological excavations. The vately owned and has been completely restored stables ran the length of the building with the and is excellently maintained (Fig. 4.45). stable door in the narrow gable entry with a Because the Uthlande house cannot be dung heap directly before it. extended in length, barn annexes form one or The living and stable areas were always sepa- more angles (Fig. 4.46). Researchers studying rated by a narrow vestibule with entryways on this kind of architecture refer here to farmsteads the north and south side, with the building as a which are shaped like a „7“ or are „5-shaped“ whole placed on an east-west axis to provide until the next level, a three-sided farmstead, or protection against the wind. The fact that the even four-sided farmstead in the most fertile buildings face the same direction – a character- polders (Fig. 4.48). These proud farmsteads still istic most frequently seen on the islands and the exist in both polders at Christian-Albrechts- Hallig islands – is typical, with all buildings in Kögen, in the Kleiseer Koog, in the old Wieding- close proximity to one another. The living area is harder Koog and also on the marsh island of Pell- subdivided into four rooms by cross-shaped wall worm. On the islands of Sylt, Föhr and Amrum, partitions, at the intersection of which the fire- the angular design dominates with some farming place and chimney are to be found. The Uthlande carried on by the wives of sea-faring men. These house was most commonly occupied by small buildings still exist today, but have been con- farmers grazing livestock and by sailors, espe- verted into bungalows for holiday-makers. Final- cially the inhabitants of the Hallig islands on the ly, there are two authentic farmsteads with their seaward side of the dykes. Consequently, there original farming implements in Utersum and was no space for crops and threshing, only a low Midlum which will probably meet the same fate. space for storage in the stables. Hay was The Geestharden house is a long, wide bay wrapped in linen cloth and transported into the house with superimposed tie-beam construction, house through a small hatch in the attic’s half- also running along an east-west axis, with the

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building space, living area, threshing floor, sta- access to the blade – represent a considerable ble, second threshing floor and square main hall gain in efficiency. This design was further all supported by four posts. The living area thus extended when the so-called tail pole – used to resembles the Uthlande house in its basic form position the mill to face into the eye of the wind in that it also has four rooms. – was replaced by the fantail in 1750. There were This type of house can easily be extended, and many mills within the region. During the 17th thus there are smaller Geestharden houses with century, much to their distress, millers and farm- low eaves as well as Geestharden houses boast- ers were forced to give up control of their mills ing a considerable length built over various peri- by a royal edict issued in 1720. Government con- ods until the end of the 19th century. Belying its trol of mills was not abolished until 1852. The name, the Geestharden house was also built in demise of windmills began in 1925 as large mills the marsh, with extended angular annexes (Fig. which ran on electricity were constructed. The 4.47). last „Dutch-style“ mills were still in operation Dutch domestic culture, complete with tiled until 1950/1960. Conversion to other purposes walls in the living areas which retained and gave has led to the preservation of 13 mills in North off heat from the two-legged cast iron „Bileg- Frisia. The oldest date from 1771 and are found ger“ stove, and with alcove beds and closet space in Joldlund and in Nebel on Amrum. The last one along the walls, all form a part of the Uthlande is still operational as a mill, and also serves as a and Geestharden house tradition that is well heritage museum. Most restored mills date from worth preserving today as a facet of our Euro- the 19th century. On Pellworm the mill „Gott mit pean cultural heritage. Ship captains on the uns“ (God be with us) was also a navigational islands and Hallig islands enhanced their stan- aid. Of 40 mills on Eiderstedt, „Emanuel“ and dard of living by bringing various objects back „Catharina“ underwent restoration and were with them from Holland. converted to other purposes. Dutch immigrants who came to Eiderstedt starting in the 16th/17th century instituted their Farm buildings – contemporary trends own tradition for building farmsteads which will The valuable inventory of surviving farmstead be presented in a separate section. This was the dwellings and ancillary buildings from agrarian tradition of the „Haubarg“ (Fig. 4.52). life in North Frisia is constantly being adversely In addition to the farmhouses already men- affected by two post-war developments. It has tioned, there is also the Anglo-Saxon North Ger- become possible to separate ownership of the man bay house, spread over a small area limited farmstead and of buildings. Large tracts of land to the southern part of Südergoesharde, on the are required in order to be able to achieve geest north of the Eider and . The Osten- economies of scale for a farming operation. felder farmhouse dating from the 16th century Many farmers are leasing their land and placing (separate parlor room extensions in 1673) was the farmstead property on the real estate mar- relocated to Husum in 1899 and converted to an ket. open-air museum. Exceptional examples of this The most beautiful and best-preserved four- type of house are found in in the district sided farmstead in the verdant „Neuen Chris- of Stapelholm. These oak-timbered frame struc- tian-Albrecht-Koog“, the Nahn farmstead, greets tures date from the late 16th century. visitors with a sign advertising the „Beauty und At this time, the inhabitants raised livestock Wellness Hotel“ housed within it (Fig. 4.48). and tilled the land, both to meet their own needs After leasing additional land or purchasing a and for sale. Grain was processed into milled larger share of milk quotas, farmsteads require flour, groats and coarsely ground barley, rape- more buildings. From time to time, new ancillary seed pressed to gain oil. Of these post mills, buildings are added by the leaseholders – form- there is only one specimen preserved at the ing a hive of sheds and outsize buildings around open-air museum. In the 18th and 19th the original single-family house, in some cases centuries, windmills of the Dutch style gained crowded in at the foot of a dyke. Building and favor over the post mills because the latter were zoning legislation passed in 1998 allows less so labor-intensive, requiring the entire mill to be orderly principles for construction. This has led rotated on a crosstree to face the wind. The to rampant building methods which give the rotating cap of the new smock mills from Hol- property a jumbled appearance. As early as the land – built on ground level, with an additional mid-seventies, the tourist industry made gallery or a mound of earth pitched to allow overnight lodgings and a second domicile in the

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country away from the traditional seaside The Garding chronicler Volckmarus Carolus resorts more popular, and has also meant that wrote in 1795: „The soil is the source of two-fold farm dwellings have become the property of new riches.“ owners. A large proportion of the houses form- The sand embankment running across Eiderst- ing the local heritage were thus preserved, yet edt from west to east, referred to by the locals as conversion of the property to other uses has their „geest“ holds not only finds from the Stone resulted in varying levels of preservation quality. and Bronze Ages, but also the oldest evidence of The property development in the Sönke-Nis- settlement - dating back to the 1st century A.D. sen-Koog – just outside Bredstedt in the district In the Middle Ages too, the soil’s intrinsic quali- of Nordergoesharde – is a rare and noteworthy ty and high elevation offered the safest condi- example within the landscape of „modern“ farm tions of survival by making it possible to build buildings. In 1926 four large farmsteads were houses on a site which would not be flooded. built here by the architect H. Stav. These are liv- Thus, settlements were established here in the ing proof of how the creative use of new mate- Middle Ages, which also saw church structures rials allows building design to blend into the completed in the 12th and13th centuries, lead- landscape (sheet metal painted green and white, ing to the establishment of the parishes St.Peter- white plasterwork, glass). Those familiar with Ording, Tating, Garding and Katharinenheerd. these farmsteads appreciate how the flickering The „Chronicon Eiderostadense vulgare von of the sun’s rays on the light green roof blends 1547“ – a chronicle which also contains histori- with the azure sky in the distance. The building cal records from 1103 to 1482 - reports that and landscape meld to become one, a basic law wooden chapels were erected in „Tatinghen“ of architecture still valid here. (Tating) in 1103 and „op dem Kleve Garsande“ The considerable heritage represented by the (Garding) in 1109. Shortly thereafter both were houses in North Frisia require the use of funda- destroyed by fire and replaced by stone church- mental planning principles for their preservation es. Garding anno 1117: „Chapels are constructed and redesign. from the chapels“ – one should note the „water- ravaged land“ and the difficulty of navigating 4.3.2.3 Eiderstedt – the peninsula of the the paths and roads. The sites are named „Pop- North Frisian district penbüll, Tetenbüll, Osterhever, Katrinherde, Welte and Vurewyck“ (Vollerwieck). The district and its settlement structure The 18 churches still existing bear witness to Churches and parishes these early beginnings. They stand alone as the Still called the „Dreilande“ (three lands) to this most valuable remnants of mediaeval architec- day, Eiderstedt consists of the three isle-like ture in this region, despite alterations to their administrative districts (so-called „Harden“) of structure carried out mostly in the 19th century. Utholm, Everschop and Eiderstedt. These districts The „Eiderstedt pulpit“ from the 16th century are separated by tidal gullies and incursions of belongs to the post-Reformation church trea- the sea and were transformed into a peninsula sures from the golden period of church culture. through dyke-building and drainage measures Eiderstedt is home to a large number of indi- starting in the 12th century and continuing all vidual dwelling mounds which can be recognized the way to land reclamation efforts of our day. as mound villages and former Hallig mounds. It Eiderstedt was a separate district until the can be stated here that these sites represent the administrative reform of 1970. most desirable locations for dwellings and farm- The large island „Strand“, of which only the steads from earliest habitation to the present marsh islands Nordstrand and Pellworm day, in particular for the imposing large kind of remained after the flood tides of 1354 and farmhouse native to Eiderstedt – the „Haubarg“. 1634, once stood close to the shore of Eider- Some dwelling mounds have fallen into disuse stedt, only separated in the north by the Hev- after fires or been abandoned after the farm- erstrom sea channel. These islands and the stead was demolished. They are normally includ- peninsula share the common trait of having an ed as pasturage. The large „Schockenbüll“ unusually fertile layer of marsh topsoil, which dwelling mound, located in the Marschkoog of on Eiderstedt is especially rich. This soil Tetenbüll on the formerly navigable tidal gully, formed the basis of the Eiderstedt farmers’ serves as one example. A wide area of reeds has affluence. evolved along a waterway here, for centuries

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providing the building material for thatched a renovated farming Haubarg building, while houses. applying traditional methods. With Poppenbüll’s oldest polders, Osterhever The population density in the 17th and 18th and Westerhever – with their traditional church, centuries, the period when Haubarg buildings parsonage, school and pub forming the commu- were built, was higher than it is today. nity’s center – many Hallig dwelling mounds have been retained from that portion of the The Haubarg buildings foreshore once encircled by ring dykes. „Sievers- The Dreilande „Utholm“, „Everschop“ and „Eider- büll“ (Westerhever) has two Haubarg buildings stedt“ were granted common land rights in Low- where once three stood and „Stuffhusen“ boasts er German in 1572 and a common seal in 1613. a single Haubarg and other structures closely This was the period in which the three districts tied to Hallig building tradition. merged due to the completion of the dykeworks An old village mound of surprising height and and drainage measures. mass named „Op’n Dörp“ is located in the village At the wish of the duke and because of the of Osterhever. In 1837 J. von Schröder noted: financial interest of the Dutch in earning money „Houses on top of the mound are still called ‘the by applying their technical expertise in dyke village’“. building and drainage construction in beyond The village mounds of the polders which were their own borders, Dutch dyke builders came to eventually surrounded by ring-dykes are flatter. Eiderstedt as early as the 16th century, followed An example of this is the Sieversflether Koog by investors and farmers. (1610) with its „Rich Man’s Row“ – originally a The special feature of housebuilding in North series of six Haubarge, five of which still stand – Frisia - the famous Eiderstedt Haubarg – origi- their approach following a long, uniformly laid nated here. As expert builders the Dutch brought out path running across the middle of the pold- with them to the area their mighty house design, er. Settlement structures follow along similar as well as the Dutch windmill with rotating cap, lines in the Altaugustenkoog (1611) and the modern methods in dairy farming („Hollän- Neuaugustenkoog (1699). Here the Haubarg dereien“), and among other things techniques for buildings also stand in single file on the flat cultivating rape, which continues to be rotated farmstead land with a square-shaped system of with wheat to this day. ditches surrounding the entire compound. Water In 1619 at the confluence of the Eider and runoff and the ground water of the ditches pass Treene, an uninhabitable wetland, the Dutch through the natural filter of the reeds and sedge founded Friedrichstadt. As a privilege granted by growth, providing a fresh water supply to the Duke Frederick, seven different churches provid- people and their livestock. Examples of this cir- ed a place of worship for people being persecut- cular system of ditches surrounding the sod ed for their faith. Friedrichstadt has stepped farmstead mounds are known that date from the gable houses from the 17th century and is very period of settlement after Christianisation. well-preserved. With its Dutch ambience, it is At strategically important, well-fortified com- also a magnet for tourists. In 1625 the duke and pounds such as the one in Hoyersworth (con- Dutch counterparts predominantly from Catholic structed by Caspar Hoyer from 1591 to 1594) Brabant as well as other contractual parties and in Wolfenbüll (Marschkoog Tetenbüll) the entered into an agreement to build new dykes farmstead mounds are encircled by a system of around Nordstrand and settle it. The imposed ditches with intermediate pastureland, called agreement by the duke also guaranteed privi- „Blök“ or „Bleeke“. These were also fitted with a leges to the parties involved. The Dutch settlers drawbridge for security. Impenetrable briar and their lease-holders thus gained ownership of hedges protected the mound with additional large areas of land. Unlike the situation in Eider- protection afforded by a large stand of ash, wil- stedt, a map dating from 1725 only provides evi- low and elm trees. dence of one Haubarg structure. The Hoyerswort castle is the former residence Due to constant renovation of farm buildings of the lease-holders and the only patrician on Nordstrand, there are only a few remaining building in the landscape. It is well-preserved specimens of the imposing longhouses with thanks to being listed on the national registry of entryways on the side, which may also be the historical monuments (Fig. 4.49). A local family predecessors of Eiderstedt’s stock of Haubarg runs a farm and tends the compound, including buildings.

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During the same period, in Holland polders were Barghaus on Eiderstedt as early as 1605. In being reclaimed from the grasps of the sea. The Freesenkoog (near Friedrichstadt) the first Beemster in the north of Holland was thus Haubarg buildings were probably built in 1611“ reclaimed by means of dykes and Dutch pumping (Knottnerus, 1997, pp. 94 – 99). mills around 1612 – 1620. The bountiful harvests The entry recorded by Peter Sax in 1636 only which were reaped led to that area being called makes one reference to a structure of this kind. Holland’s pleasure-garden in 1640. The singular Describing the villages of Kaltenhörn and Büttel impression made by the many „Stelp“ farmsteads (Koldenbüttel), he notes that: „.... the pond, of is well-known. These farmsteads were built on Johan Philip of Hertingeshusen’s Hewberg on....“. the newly reclaimed polders using a building The construction of Haubarg buildings was com- style derived from the Frisian gulf house. „Stelp“ mon around 1650. There are some Haubarg and „Haubarg“ building styles are very similar in buildings which have integrated the previous their design and construction and are related to Frisian longhouse at the home site in full or rem- the gulf houses with their large square central nants of it. Among other things, this led to vari- room – the „gulf“ or „barg“. ous ground plans and exterior forms. The Red The novel and modernizing effect of these two Haubarg was erected as a ducal building and is types of buildings can be attributed to the spa- the highest and largest of this type. The Haubarg ciousness of the interior, which required less was first built in 1659 using „red roof tiles“ – a wood to construct a substantial amount of stor- costly measure rather than using conventional age space. This stood in stark contrast to gulf thatching, the hall in the upper floor was also an longhouses and their more narrowly spaced indulgence, displacing a room where normally joists. The Haubarg is a typical marshland house, grain would have been stored. In 1759 the pre- serving as stables for dairy cattle feeding on sent building was erected in the wake of a fire. coarse fodder while also being suitable for farm- The building was restored completely in 1983/84 ing harvest-rich crops (Figs. 4.50 – 4.52). with support from the state registry of historical The gaps between the half-timbering (hori- monuments and is home to an agricultural zontal wooden frames) are maximized, thus pro- museum and restaurant (Fig. 4.51). The ducing an impressive square space between only Matthießen Haubarg in Brösum near St.Peter- four posts. Ording, the Kühl’sche Haubarg near Katharinen- The living area (Vörhus) and combined stable- heerd and the Tetenbüll „Staatshof“ (all fine barn (Achterhus) with the threshing floor and specimens) have preserved façades and note- stables for cattle and horses running along the worthy details dating back to the 18th century building’s length constitute the parts of the mul- (Fig. 4.50). Only one example of inner furnishings ti-purpose dwelling. Six-post and eight-post has been preserved from the period. These fur- variations of this design add a correspondingly nishings can be viewed in the Rotelau Haubarg, larger number of spacious central storage rooms. which was relocated to a Copenhagen open-air The old method of using wall ties allow the posts museum in 1959. The Poppenbüll Holmhof to be spaced farther apart cross-wise and stabi- (1870) has original elements such as a multi- lizes its construction – an important feature for gabled Haubarg barn featuring side entryways withstanding the strong winds of the coastal with a passageway connecting it to separate liv- region. The large hip-roofed thatching rests on ing quarters. crossbeams and rafters of a four-post square There are numeros examples of well-preserved frame. Lacking a nearby source, wood needed as cottages of day laborers, which are built in the a building material had to be imported from Haubarg style. These small half-timbered houses, Pomerania and Norway while oak was initially which are also related to the Uthlande house in taken from the geest. By 1588 the use of bricks their extended form as small farmsteads, no for house construction was already required by longer make use of an inner joist-supported ducal decree. Shell lime was supplied by ship structure, but instead have roof beams set on from the Netherlands; on Eiderstedt two lime- solid masonry with wallboard. There is only one kilns have been documented from the 19th cen- known example of a house using an inner joist- tury as well as a large number of brickworks. supported frame on Eiderstedt – it was a smoke- Today, no brickworks exist on the peninsula any house located in Poppenbüll, which burned down more. in 1990 after being condemned before that. The Haubarg followed its own course of devel- Studies have shown that the smokehouse’s opment. „Dutch immigrants built the first known frame came from the Helmfleth Hallig dwelling

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mound, the last remains of an Uthlande house people from outside the area who are not in the on Eiderstedt, testifying to the peninsula’s place business of farming. Conversion of these build- within the North Frisian architectural landscape. ings to other uses involves thorough restoration and their preservation. Unfortunately, there are „Haubarg“ buildings in danger also a large number of alterations made to these The existence of Haubarg buildings has been buildings which are inappropriate to the building threatened from the middle of the 19th century design. These are carried out to accommodate to the present day. A large number have been larger numbers of holiday visitors. This reduces torn down over the years: of the 400 Haubarg the Haubarg to the level of a „trademark“. buildings recorded in 1795 (chronicler Volck- These buildings can still be experienced, much marus Carolus), only 370 were counted in 1860, to the pleasure of their owners and the delight in 1930 only 160 were still standing and today of tourists. Speaking only of the Eiderstedt approximately 70 such structures still exist, peninsula – Haubarg buildings and the land- some of which have only retained their inner scape so tellingly graced by these buildings are frame and outer building structure. These heavy unique and irreplaceable treasures of our cultur- losses point to the transformation of agricultur- al heritage. al methods which began in the middle of the 19th century. 4.3.2.4 Dithmarschen – North and South The change from dairying and raising grain Dithmarschen crops to grazing oxen for lucrative export trade with England from 1846 to about 1890 meant The district and its settlement structure that there was no longer a need to utilize the Churches and parishes space provided by Haubarg buildings. Around The district of Dithmarschen known to us today 1900, statistics on land use show that 14 % of – bounded by the Eider in the north and the Elbe the land was being farmed and 86 % covered by in the south – is made up of Norddithmarschen greenspace in Eiderstedt, whereas in 1800 the with its seat of local government in Heide and proportions were 40 % for farming and 60 % for Süddithmarschen with its seat of local govern- greenspace (Hammerich, 1984). ment in Meldorf. Meldorf was founded in the A new type of farmstead evolved during the Middle Ages as the district’s main city on a spit period of Prussian rule starting in 1870. Its sep- of geest, well above the surrounding countryside. arate living quarters and farm buildings have a The old moraine geest ridge and spits of land flat sloping board roof and hayloft wrapped in partially covered by dunes („Donn“), such as near tin sheeting. This style of building continued to Michaelisdonn, and partial formation of a cliff be constructed until 1960. However, unlike in face („Kleve“), like the one at the approach to the Dithmarschen, the Haubarg has continued to village of Kleve near Hennstedt, provided desir- dominate the landscape in Eiderstedt. able settlement locations while reminding the Today, the farm buildings with loosebox sta- observer of the earlier North Sea surf which bles being constructed for fattening bulls, for 6,500 years ago broke on the shore far inland housing dairying lines or for stowing straw and from today’s coast. The „first-generation“ parish- implements reveal the contemporary needs of es of Meldorf, , , Süder- farmers. Planned alterations to the original hastedt are located here. building structure of the Haubarg buildings are After the annexation of Saxon territories dur- considered uneconomical and the cost of con- ing the reign of Charlemagne and the ensuing stantly maintaining and insuring the thatched missionary effort, Meldorf was the first and thus roofs is also seen as a burden. A Haubarg has oldest church built in Dithmarschen (before approximately 1000 sqm of thatching worth EUR 826). Today, the church is the most important 100,000. There are Haubarg buildings being ful- large Gothic monument (1250 - 1300) of the ly utilized which are completely covered with region, though it has a neo-Gothic spire which metal siding, thus pointing to the maintenance was added later. The Carolingian-Saxon ramparts costs for manual labor as the prime cause of the and castle fortresses still exist in both Stelle Haubarg’s demise today. The simplest solution (Norddithmarschen) and Burg (Süddith- chosen by farmers is building new multi-purpose marschen) on the upland geest edge, affording a buildings for a fixed price, sometimes while broad view of the marsh. The churches atop vil- doing the construction themselves. In this way, lage mounds in the marsh have developed into year for year, Haubarg buildings are being sold to circular settlements whose distinguishing fea-

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Fig. 4.35: Mound villages Wesselburen and Wörden

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tures are a ring road surrounding the churchyard field edges follow the irregular course of the with streets radiating outwards. Wöhrden and reclaimed plots of land which were cultivated Wesselburen are well-preserved examples cooperatively until the reapportionment of land demonstrating this pattern. into larger plots during the 18th century. This The church at Wesselburen still holds remains was the primary factor behind the development of the round Romanesque fieldstone tower from of clustered villages. Villages near towns the 12th century. The church and provincial gov- expanded and developed into more densely pop- ernment (seat of the parish vestry) from 1737 ulated residential communities with a large are a further indication of the power and wealth number of new detached homes in all manner of of local farmers. The parishes of the 12th and styles and positions in the town. The once har- 13th centuries remain centers of power to this monious appearance of villages with uniform day for the farming population both among hip-roofed structures within the landscape of geest and marsh farmers. Preserved Romanesque residential buildings is now history. churches in Dithmarschen are long hall churches Marsh plot settlements with a row of farm- of fieldstone (Lunden, Hennstedt) with belfries steads set off from each other are weathering partly made of wood (, Lunden). The vil- these changes more auspiciously. This settlement lages are largely preserved in their original lay- structure is being disturbed at many places out and, due to their agrarian structures, have through the subdivision of building property to been spared sprawl or aimless development accommodate single-family homes. Moreover, except for new residential subdivisions. The new commercial buildings are being built, alteration of many historic buildings, especially including windowless sheds to replace former their demolition during the post-war economic farmstead sites on mounds which now have boom have taken their toll on the cityscapes. nobody living there. The tourist industry also There are only scattered examples of the earliest makes use of some existing buildings. However, half-timbered frame construction, e.g. the the sites which are operating as farmsteads with „Material Storehouse“ in Wöhrden in the Hafen- large immaculate front yards easily predominate straße dating from 1519, as well as the former the scene. These farmers have chosen to live Meldorf vicarage in Papenstraße dating from with the changes required of buildings used in 1601. modern agriculture. The cultivation of cabbage The rows of dwellings found in the earliest set- and vegetables requires large stacks of crates to tlements stretching along a north-south axis on stand nearby in the open or in nearby buildings the old marsh and the later development of sin- along with tractors and front-end loaders. gle-farmstead settlements on the low-lying areas clearly mark the structure of modern-day The landscape heritage of agrarian buildings marshland villages. Farmsteads line up side by The North German bay hall house/The „Dwer“ side with tree-covered ditch systems along their house/The „Barg“ barn /The East Frisian gulf flanks. The typical farmstead houses which arose house over various periods are found here. Large-estate Presenting the history of agrarian building farmers have farmsteads dating primarily from development in Dithmarschen is difficult. First, the final decades of the 19th century up until there are no inventories using modern investiga- the beginning of the following century. An tion methodology, and additionally most archi- upsurge in the farming economy of the 19th tectural historians will emphasize the problem: century allowed the construction of new build- „The development of the farmhouse is more ings. Thus, in Tiebensee, Wennemannswisch, and elaborate here than it has been in Elbmarschen“ Jarrenwisch and at other points in the region (Lehmann, 1927, p. 63). farmstead compounds nearly take on the dimen- „The houses themselves are difficult to sort sions of a farming estate. out...“ (Wolf, 1940, p. 151). The polders situated off the old marsh and its „The Dithmarschen geest was once an area of village mounds and single-farmstead settle- houses in the Lower Saxon style. These have all ments from between 1600 – 1970 form a system disappeared“ (Lehmann, 1927, p. 82). subject to various regulative forces. The house As is the case with urban buildings, the oldest design and the division of farming land are type of structure in Dithmarschen uses half-tim- determined by the settlers and the architectural ber frame construction. In 1907 a North German period. On the geest ridges villages developed bay hall house dating from 1700 was successful- without following a set structural pattern. The ly preserved in . It was relocated to

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Fig. 4.36: Row of dwelling mounds, Dithmarschen

Meldorf to serve as the centerpiece of an open- As of 1800, the work area of the „Dwer“ house air museum and now provides visitors with an took on the Frisian gulf house design, most like- impression of how people lived in this „Dutch- ly to enlarge the storage space and improve the style“ building (Fig. 4.53). use of the building. That is why there are two As the geest agriculture became more eco- kinds of farmstead. As is the case in the Wister- nomically stable in the 19th century, the larger marsch, the Saxon design is combined with the house design called the „Dwer“ house became Frisian gulf frame construction. It cannot neces- more common on this less fertile soil. The „Dwer“ sarily be seen if a building uses gulf house design house („Dwer“ is a term meaning without looking inside. „cross-wise“), which researchers of this architec- That is one difficulty posed when complet- ture have dated back to 1600 takes on the build- ing an inventory. There is an apparently well- ing structure of the Saxon bay house, but the preserved building located on the national distinguishing feature of this Dithmarschen highway in Epenwöhrden, with remnants of house is an entryway to the living quarters, work Frisian roof framework, that will probably be areas and stables or barn away from the gable torn down due to its proximity to the road front. (Fig. 4.54).

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In order to improve the appearance of the home, style with entry to the stables and large hall some houses are having a vestibule added to the from the side. It also has an additional hall living area in the front gable. At the same time, doorway in the recessed living area of the build- farmsteads of Saxon design have had a side ing, providing a practical solution for passing gable added on the eaves side as an entryway to through the building so typical for the East a large transverse vestibule, such as the at the Frisian gulf house (Fig. 4.56). This building design Löwenhof farm in Süddithmarschen. was brought to this fertile land from East Frisia The „Dwer“ house came to be typical for Dith- and has vast dimensions. The abundant crops marschen farmhouses of varying dimension and harvested on the new polders required large variation as described above, yet many impres- buildings with a high-ceilinged storage area for sive farmsteads have fallen victim to new devel- stacking the unthreshed grain. Many of these opment. gulf houses are still preserved on the polder, „Around 1850 agricultural life underwent sig- despite the addition of contemporary farm utili- nificant transformation as yet unequalled in ty buildings to the complexes. recorded history – through so-called industriali- The most recently dyked polders dating from sation“ (Nissen, 1999). This historical develop- the 1930s such as Dieksanderkoog, which was ment had a marked effect on Dithmarschen and renamed from the former name of „Adolf-Hitler- led to changes and a transformation of farm- Koog“ in 1945, form a part of Dithmarschen’s house culture. The „founder years“ of agricultur- history. al building activity, which chose to emphasize The farmsteads built in 1933 to exemplify representative homes as well as farm buildings „traditional“ construction of the period still exist on an extensive scale from the turn of the cen- today, including the „Neulandhalle“, which tury up to the 1930s, led to the demise of a large served as a cultural focal point and educational number of the older „Dwer“ houses. Partial retreat for the National Socialist party for dis- demolition also led to alterations: While the seminating its „race-and-fatherland“ ideology. shorter living area of „Dwer“ houses is left intact, The dyking of the polder began in 1933 accom- the working area is redesigned by building an panied by party propaganda: „Digging in with extension directly onto the half-hip roof which spades as their weapons, German youth create rests on the sill beam. This annexe usually has new German territory under Compulsory Nation- metal siding with a flat sloping roof. Building al Labour Service“. alterations of this type are still being carried out This traditional farming area also attracts today. tourists due to its attractive location facing the The „Barg“ barn with a square four-post con- sea. Thus, over time, the buildings are changing struction is based on an older Frisian tradition in in their make-up – at random. Dithmarschen and was built as a supplementary Much as it did in North Frisia, the Dutch wind- building on farmsteads as early as the first half mills of the 18th and 19th centuries took their of the 17th century. „A farmstead in the south- place as an evolving part of the farm building ern Dithmarschen area is not complete without a landscape. In Dithmarschen 15 mills have been Frisian barn“ (Saeftel, 1930, p. 44). At the time of converted and thus been preserved within the his publication, Saeftel already pointed out that landscape. no inventory had been completed. Especially in The Dutch outside cap winder „Aurora“ (Latin the north of Dithmarschen, a large number of for „dawn“) dating from 1880 is located in Wed- Barg of both modest and more sizeable dingstedt and stopped operation in 1960. It sur- dimensions still exist today. However, they are vived as a derelict torso and has only been threatened by a lack of upkeep. The traditional restored very recently. In a windmill thatched roofing has given way to Eternit (fire- also named „Aurora“ could no longer operate retardant roofing) or sheet metal (Fig 4.55). when the train bridge crossing the North Sea- The vibrant history of home building in Dith- Baltic Sea canal was built in 1920, blocking the marschen with its varying Dutch influences is normal path of the wind. It was then electrified also testified to through the documentation of and is used as a home today. 17 „Haubarg“ buildings by Saeftel, of which The historical and economic factors contribut- none have survived. ing to the flourishing farmhouse culture in Dith- The East Frisian gulf house, which was the marschen is distinguished by its continuity. The type of dwelling used to settle the Kron- excellent trade routes of the Elbe and Eider pro- prinzenkoog in 1787, has a distinctive building vided convenient access to Hanseatic cities –

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particularly and Bremen – and led to torischer Bausubstanz“ [Society for the Preserva- the establishment of a flourishing exchange of tion of Historical Buildings] has successfully goods as early as the Middle Ages. Land owner- contributed to the preservation of countless his- ship and wealth was wielded by the powerful torical buildings. Thus, in Dithmarschen no dynasty of farming clans who worked in cooper- inventory of the farmhouses and barns men- ative associations. tioned above has been completed. The area’s The region remained independent of noble rule farm building heritage is made distinctive by the until 1559. Witnesses to this age are the ceme- blend of Saxon and Frisian influences on its tery with vaulted tombs for the ruling class of building culture. farmers at the churchyard in Lunden and the excellently appointed main room of the Marcus 4.3.3 References Swyn house from 1568, who was chief parish Aakjaer, S. 1926-1949 (Hrsg.). Kong Valdemars Jordebog 1-3, warden, farmer, trader and shipowner all in one Kopenhagen. (Landesmuseum Meldorf). The Schmielau farm- Austen, G. 1992. Sandwälle im südlichen Eiderstedt stead in Lehe/Dithmarschen dating from 1781 (Schleswig-Holstein). Meyniana 44, 1992, 53-65. can be visited at the open-air museum in Molf- Behre, K. 1976. Die Pflanzenreste aus der frühgeschichtlichen see near Kiel and its manorial furnishings pro- Warft Elisenhof. Stud. Küstenarchäologie Schleswig-Hol- vide an impression of the wealth at the time. It stein, Ser. A, Elisenhof 2, Bern-Frankfurt. has also been handed down that geest farmers Bantelmann, A. 1955. Tofting, eine vorgeschichtliche Warft and the rich marsh farmers avoided contact on an der Eidermündung. Offa-Bücher 12, Neumünster. the Heide horse market and that marriage Bantelmann, A. 1975. Die frühgeschichtliche Marschensied- lung beim Elisenhof in Eiderstedt. Landschaftsgeschichte und between the two classes was frowned upon. Baubefunde. Stud. Küstenarchäologie Schleswig-Holstein, The key requirements for successful farming Ser. A, Elisenhof 1, Bern-Frankfurt 1975. are met in Dithmarschen: outstanding soil qual- Bantelmann,A., Kuschert.R., Panten. A. & Steensen, Th. 1995. ity which can easily be cultivated and a favor- Geschichte Nordfrieslands, Nordfriisk Instituut (ed.), Bredst- able climate. edt. The forms of agricultural operations include Beseler, H. 1969. Kunst-Topographie Schleswig-Holstein, extensive and intensive farming – both of grain Neumünster. crops and vegetables – as well as fruit orchards. Bokelmann, K. 1988. Warften und Flachsiedlungen der römis- The most commonly found farm produce in Dith- chen Kaiserzeit. Ergebnisse einer Prospektion in Norderdith- marschen includes cabbage, sugarbeets and marschen und Eiderstedt. In M. Müller-Wille, B. Hilgelke, D. Hoffmann, B. Menke, A. Brande, K. Bokelmann, H.E. Saggau u. potatoes. Horses have always been bred in Dith- H.J. Kühn, Norderhever-Projekt. 1 Landschaftsentwicklung marschen as part of its livestock, a tradition und Siedlungsgeschichte im Einzugsgebiet der Norderhever which is continued to this day. (Nordfriesland). Offa-Bücher 66. Stud. Küstenarchäologie Despite the changes of the 19th century, the Schleswig-Holstein, Ser. C, Norderhever-Projekt 1, Neumün- ster, 149-162. heritage of agrarian homes in Dithmarschen rep- Brauer, Scheffler & Weber 1939. Kunstdenkmäler Schleswig resents a valuable store of concealed building – Holstein, Husum, Berlin. materials which cannot be catalogued through Braun, F. & Strehl, R. 1989. Langhaus und Winkelbau Uth- mere observation and has yet to be cartographi- landfriesische Bauformen im 18.und 19. Jahrhundert, Nord- cally researched. In Bargholz a preserved bay hall friisk Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. house from the 18th century was discovered Braunfels, W. 1972. Karl der Große, Reinbek. which was believed to be „extinct“. The greater Bruhn, E. 1926. Zur Heimatgeschichte Eiderstedts , vol. 1, public’s awareness of the importance of these Garding. buildings seems to be less deeply instilled. This von Chamisso, D. 1986. Pellworm im Jahrhundert der großen region has not been as strongly exposed to the Flut, St. Peter – Ording. numbers of tourists found in North Frisia. The von Hielmcrone, U. Bild und Geschichte einer Stadt, Husum. region around Büsum is one exception. When Dörfer, J.F.A. 1805. Topographie von Schleswig. converting these buildings to an alternative use – except for rare exceptions – renovation work Eiderstedter Heimatbund (ed.). 1971. Blick über Eiderstedt. Beiträge zur Geschichte, Kultur und Natur einer Landschaft, unfortunately involves the use of popular sale ed. 3, Heide. items found in home improvement centers. There Fischer, L. 1984. Haubarge, Norfriisk Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. is no special interest group for the preservation Fischer, L. 1994. Westerhever – Ein Dorf an der Nordsee. Ver- of historical buildings found here like in North gangenheit – Gegenwart – Zukunft. Eine Küstengemeinde Frisia, where a special interest group named Eiderstedts im Wandel des ländlichen Raumes, Westerhever. „Interessengemeinschaft zur Bewahrung his-

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Geissler, G. 1999. Elemente der historischen Kulturlandschaft Meier, D. 2000. Landschaftsgeschichte, Siedlungs- und des nördlichen Dithmarscher Küstengebietes. Eine GIS- Wirtschaftsweise der Marsch. In: Verein für Dithmarscher gestützte Bewertung. Unveröffentlichter Projektbericht, FTZ- Landeskunde (Hrsg.), Geschichte Dithmarschens, Heide, 71- Westküste. Arbeitsguppen Küstenarchäologie/Küstengeogra- 92. phie, Büsum. Meier, D. 2001. Landschaftsentwicklung und Siedlungs- Hammerich, H. 1984. Eiderstedts Landwirtschaft gestern und geschichte des Eiderstedter und Dithmarscher Küstengebi- heute. Heimatkundliche Schriften des Heimatbundes Eiderst- etes als Teilregionen des Nordseeküstenraumes. Teil 1: Die edt (ed.), vol. 1, Husum. Ansiedlungen; Teil 2 Der Siedlungsraum. Universitäts- forschungen zur Prähistorischen Archäologie, Bonn (in print). Harck, O. et al. 1980. Landschaftsgeschichte und Archäologie an der Westküste der jütischen Halbinsel. In: G. Kossack, O. Nissen, N.R. 1989. Landwirtschaft im Wandel, Heide. Harck, J. Newig, D. Hoffmann, H. Willkomm, F.-R. Averdieck Nissen, N.R. 1993. Windmühlen an der Nordseeküste, Heide. u. J. Reichstein, Archsum auf Sylt. Teil 1, Stud. Küstenar- chäologie Schleswig-Holstein, Ser. B, Archsum 1, Röm.-Germ. Nissen, N.R. 1999. Kleine Geschichte Dithmarschens, ed. 6, Forsch. 39, Mainz, 32-63. Heide. Helmers, M.F. 1981. Das Gulfhaus, 1943, Hildesheim. Oldekop, H. 1975. Topographie Herzontum Schleswig, 1906, Schleswig, Kiel. Hoffmann, D. et al 1997. Geologische und archäologische Untersuchungen zur Landschafts- und Siedlungsgeschichte Peters, L.C. 1929. Das Bauernhaus und seine geschichtliche des Küstengebietes von Norderdithmarschen. Germania, 213- Entwicklung in: Nordfriesland, Husum, p. 313-335. 253. Prange, W. 1986. Die Bedeichungsgeschichte der Marschen Jasper, J.,1977. Chronicon Eiderostadense vulgare 1103 – in Schleswig-Holstein. Probleme der Küstenforschung 16, 1- 1547 , St.-Peter Ording 53. Johannsen, C.I. 1992. Eine reiche Hauslandschaft in ‚Nord- Sax, P. 1986. Werke zur Geschichte Nordfrieslands und Dith- ‘, no 97, Nordfriisk Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. marschens, vol. 1, 1636, Nordfriisk Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. Koop, R. 1936. Besiedlung und Bedeichung , Eiderstedter von Schröder, J. 1837. Topographie Herzogtum Schleswig, Heimatbuch, vol.1, Garding. vol.1, Schleswig. Kuenz, K. 1978. Nordstrand nach 1634, Konstanz. Saeftel, F. 1930. Haubarg und Barghus, die friesischen Großhäuser an der Schleswig-Holsteinischen Westküste, Hei- Knottnerus, O.S. 1997. Agrarverfassung und Landschafts- de. gestaltung in den Nordseemarschen in: Fischer, L. (ed.). Kul- turlandschaft Nordseemarschen, Bredstedt, Westerhever, p. Steensen, Th. 1992. Deichbau und Sturmfluten in den Fries- 94-99 landen, Nordfriisk Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. Kühnast, G. 2000. Nordfriesland eine vielfältige Bauerland- Sauermann, E. 1939. Kunstdenkmäler des Kreises Eiderstedt, schaft, in: Steensen, Th. Nordfriisk Instituut (ed.), Das Große Berlin. Nordfrieslandbuch, Bredstedt. Thiede, K. 1963. Bauerhäuser in Schleswig-Holstein, Heide. Kunz, H. & Panten, A. 1997. Die Köge Nordfrieslands, Nord- Volckmarus, F.C. 1986. Versuch einer Beschreibung von Eider- friis Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. steadt, 1795, Garding, Hamburg. Bredstedt. Lehmann, O. 1927. Das Bauernhaus in Schleswig-Holstein, Verein Dithmarschen Landeskunde (ed.) 2000. Geschichte Altona. Dithmarschens, Heide. Meiborg, R. 1977. Das Bauerhaus im Herzogtum Schleswig Vogel, C. 1996. Der nordfriesischen Geestrand, die Entwick- und das Leben des Schles-wigschen Bauerstandes, Haupt, R. lung seiner Siedlungen und ihre Flurnamen, 1951, Nordfriisk (ed.), 1896. Deutsche Ausgabe, Schleswig, Kiel. Instituut (ed.), Bredstedt. Meier, D. et al. 1989. D. Hoffmann u. M. Müller-Wille, Zum Wolf, G., 1940. Haus und Hof deutscher Bauern, vol. 1, mittelalterlichen Landesausbau Eiderstedts. Offa 46, 285- Schleswig-Holstein, Berlin. 300. Meier, D. 1991. Mittelalterliche Halligwarften im nordwest- lichen Eiderstedt. Die Heimat 98, 1991, Heft 10/11, 253-262. Meier, D. 1992. Frühe Deiche in Eiderstedt. In: Th. Steensen (Hrsg.), Deichbau und Sturmfluten in den Frieslanden. 2. His- torikertreffen 1991 in Husum, Husum, 20-31. Meier, D. 1996. Landschaftsentwicklung und Sied- lungsmuster von der römischen Kaiserzeit bis in das Mittelal- ter in den Küstengebieten Eiderstedts und Dithmarschens. Siedlungsforschung 14, 245-276. Meier, D. 1997. Welt, eine frühmittelalterliche Dorfwurt im Mündungsgebiet der Eider. Archäologisches Korrespon- denzblatt 27. Meier, D. & Thamm, F. 1999. Dithmarschen. Ein Reiseführer, Hamburg.

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