Kengtung LETTERS by Matthew Z
MZW-5 SOUTHEAST ASIA Matthew Wheeler, most recently a RAND Corporation security and terrorism researcher, is studying relations ICWA among and between nations along the Mekong River. Shan State of Mind: Kengtung LETTERS By Matthew Z. Wheeler APRIL 28, 2003 KENGTUNG, Burma – Until very recently, Burmas’s Shan State was, for me, terra Since 1925 the Institute of incognita. For a long time, even after having seen its verdant hills from the Thai Current World Affairs (the Crane- side of the border, my mental map of Southeast Asia represented Shan State as Rogers Foundation) has provided wheat-colored mountains and the odd Buddhist chedi (temple). I suppose this was long-term fellowships to enable a way of representing a place I thought of as remote, obscure, and beautiful. Be- outstanding young professionals yond that, I’d read somewhere that Kengtung, the principal town of eastern Shan to live outside the United States State, had many temples. and write about international areas and issues. An exempt My efforts to conjure a more detailed picture of Shan State inevitably called operating foundation endowed by forth images associated with the Golden Triangle; black-and-white photographs the late Charles R. Crane, the of hillsides covered by poppy plants, ragged militias escorting mules laden with Institute is also supported by opium bundled in burlap, barefoot rebels in formation before a bamboo flagpole. contributions from like-minded These are popular images of the tri-border area where Burma, Laos and Thailand individuals and foundations. meet as haven for “warlord kingpins” ruling over “heroin empires.” As one Shan observer laments, such images, perpetuated by the media and the tourism indus- try, have reduced Shan State’s opium problem to a “dramatic backdrop, an ‘exotic unknowable.’”1 TRUSTEES Bryn Barnard Perhaps my abridged mental image of Shan State persisted by default, since Joseph Battat my efforts to “fill in” the map produced so little clarity.
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