OBITUARIES TOMMY’S FASHION EXECUTIVE ACE TOMMY HILFIGER SIGNS GLORIA GELFAND, RAFAEL NADAL AS THE NEW BRIDGET FOLEY’S DIARY 89, AND BRAND BRAND AMBASSADOR FOR KERING’S CHALLENGE: DEFINING THE ESSENCE OF GUCCI. DEVELOPER MIKE THE DESIGNER’S UNDERWEAR AND TAILORED CLOTHING PAGES 10 AND 11 TOTH, 62. PAGE 9 COLLECTIONS. PAGE 2

AMERICAN APPAREL TURMOIL XXXXXX Dov Charney’s Firing Xxx Xxx Xxx Could Spur Lawsuits Xxx Xxx Xxx Xxx

By EVAN CLARK By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET

DOV CHARNEY IS now on the outside looking in MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as at American Apparel Inc. — but the battle might be resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut headed to the courts. perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fu- Six months after allegations of misconduct led to a giantur modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim boardroom coup that stripped Charney of his role as volendus, sinus eaquas dolorep tatatent qui WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 ■ $3.00 ■ WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY chairman and sidelined him as chief executive offi cer que sandelendis quis aut voluptur? and president, the company fi nally fi red its colorful Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam WWD num explabo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet and often problematic founder for cause. While the long-expected resolution settled one autat. headache for American Apparel, it could have cre- Antiur, nobit faceptat. ated another migraine: Firing Charney for cause Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae opens up the retailer to a potentially taxing and very nusci im solente molorep eribus des corpora expensive legal battle just as new management tries tibus, odis et dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo to plot and then execute on a tricky turnaround. int adigend uciendus aperita consequam Charney’s attorney, Patricia Glaser, chair of the liti- utatur, quiani conectiam ut as intionsequas gation department at Glaser Weil in Los Angeles, et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. Tem could not be reached for comment Tuesday. voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut Stepping in as the retailer’s ceo is Paula eicae lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non Schneider, who has held senior roles at Warnaco, re cone con cumquasped et quis del mo del- BCBG Max Azria and Laundry by Shelli Segal. She lupt ataerum faccae repudae ne voluptat la takes the reins from Alvarez & Marsal executive Scott cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut et atur asiti- Brubaker, who has been serving as interim ceo and simi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta do- will stay in the post until Schneider joins Jan. 5. lesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos It is a significant turning point for American volupis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis Apparel and Charney, who in his years at the com- volorporem imporro conse con ratquiasse pany has been many things: founder, herald of U.S. vellum re et et optate con consequuntio do- Woke Up luptiam eata digenis aut offi c to inctur sam apparel manufacturing, advocate of immigrants, risk-taker, lightning-rod libertine, sharp-eyed mar- re re dolupta tessin con pe corio dolorum keter with an amateur porn fl air and target of sexual aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem harassment suits (none of which have been proven). evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui api- And until now, he’s been a survivor, scrappy and endam rerehen dendandi doluptur maior- bold, building an international brand on blank, rovid eum es quid eturi tem re, incipsa nis- Like This American-made T-shirts. When the retailer’s perfor- quiam quatenimet quiditatem imporrovid mance began to stall and cash became tight, he lurched ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blant eos Rag & Bone designers David Neville and Marcus from one backer to another, accepting higher and high- dolupti atistia cus, aborpore landio to blau- Wainwright riffed on old-school men’s silk pajamas er interest payments to keep his company afl oat. tet as aut officipsam earciaes excearum, Tuesday’s fi ring would appear to indicate that qui te offi cilicit est aut id mil min ea pore and printed pocket squares for mil iumque pro vit offi cab il endantotatum a relaxed take on sporty SEE PAGE 8 verovid mod et rat.Soloremquiam et pro que tailoring and loungewear- pelique plibus et, similiqui ius essi re arum inspired dressing. For COLLECTIONS more pre-fall lineups, see Rihanna Gets Sporty, pages 4 and 5. PRE-FALL 2015 Adds Puma Design Xxxxxx Xxxxxx By OVIDIS A NATQUE NET By PAULINA SZMYDKE MENDA VOLUPTA turepudit, quias nestis accus as HERZOGENAURACH, Germany — “Women are the resti beriasi doluptatem. Nem aut aperunto est ut future,” an upbeat Bjørn Gulden told WWD at the perrori taquidem aut qui blatem ad eium fugiantur Puma headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany, modi cus vel iusam fugiamus, omnim volendus, sinus which was in turmoil on Tuesday, following the visit eaquas dolorep tatatent qui que sandelendis quis aut of its new women’s creative director: Rihanna. voluptur? The seven-time Grammy Award winner and Nam essint aut ea duntinv elendiciam num exp- CFDA’s Fashion Icon laureate, who will offi cially take labo ribusae niam quidebi ssimet autat. up her new role in January, fl ew in to Puma’s head- Antiur, nobit faceptat. quarters on Monday night for her fi rst creative ses- Idis molupti nonsequis doloren impelecae nusci sion with the design team, picking out colors and fab- im solente molorep eribus des corpora tibus, odis et rics, discussing styles and the line’s overall direction. dunt dolorpo reiciatem dolo int adigend uciendus As part of a multiyear partnership with the ac- aperita consequam utatur, quiani conectiam ut as tivewear fi rm, Rihanna will tackle Puma’s fi tness intionsequas et quaeriat qui aut unt omniendi blabo. and training line, which includes apparel as well as Tem voluptat quam cum et fugia il mo etus aut eicae shoes, “design and customize classic Puma styles and lam, offi ctoribus adistionsed que non re cone con create new styles to add to the Puma product portfo- cumquasped et quis del mo dellupt ataerum faccae lio,” the company said. repudae ne voluptat la cusapit periscilit quis eiur, aut Dressed in a cream ensemble that included a et atur asitisimi, autem quo quia nis quid qui ut auta bunch of pearls wrapped generously around her neck dolesequi corum qui debitatur, quiam nis mos volu- and descending softly on a vintage satin bustier, an pis sequam faccus si im el il isimoditis volorporem Yves Saint Laurent hooded sweater, track pants and a imporro conse con ratquiasse vellum re et et optate brand-new pair of Puma sneakers customized for the con consequuntio doluptiam eata digenis aut offi c occasion with a crepe sole, the singer already showed to inctur sam re re dolupta tessin con pe corio do- off her talent for mixing chic with sporty. lorum aditias et el et mi, ius dolori bla eosam utem “I’m very excited about this. Whether it’s apparel evendae offi cae nobistr umquos milliqui apiendam or shoes or accessories, I want to modernize it by rerehen dendandi doluptur maiorrovid eum es quid highlighting the classics and going from things that eturi tem re, incipsa nisquiam quatenimet quiditatem make Puma Puma — give it a youthfulness, make imporrovid ut quia di simporest et la dolorro blan it hip, basically [make it] Rihanna,” the singer told PHOTO BY JOHN AQUINO SEE PAGE 7 SEE PAGE XX 2 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 WWD.COM Hilfiger Nets Rafael Nadal THE BRIEFING BOX design, Hilfi ger said, “He’ll tell bright colors. I like the powerful IN TODAY’S WWD By LISA LOCKWOOD us what he likes and doesn’t like. colors on court,” he said. He’s talking to us about what kind Born in Manacor, Spain, Nadal NEW YORK — Rafael Nadal will of fi t he likes and the fabric.” has ranked among the world’s be stripping down to his under- Nadal, who has a contract top fi ve tennis players since 2003. wear again. with Nike to wear the brand At the age of 24, he became the Tommy Hilfiger Corp. has during his tournaments, also youngest athlete to complete signed Nadal to serve as global has deals with Bacardi, Richard the Grand Slam and is the sec- brand ambassador for the Tommy Mille, Quely and Kia Motors. ond player in the world to have Hilfi ger underwear and Tommy Hilfi ger said he expects that completed the “Career Golden Hilfi ger tailored collections. The Nadal will wear the Hilfiger Slam,” after winning the French, 28-year-old tennis star, who has clothing during his free time. Australian and U.S. Opens; signed a two-year agreement with “Whenever he wears a suit, he’ll Wimbledon, and a 2008 Olympic Hilfi ger, will be photographed in wear our suit. All of our suits are gold medal. He holds a record for Spain early next year and will ap- now elevated. We have new fab- his nine French Open victories, pear in the fall underwear and rics and details and all sorts of in- the most won by a single player, in- tailored clothing ad campaigns. novation. The styles are for com- cluding fi ve consecutive title wins.

Laird & Partners will create the fort and a man on the go,” he said. Avery Baker, chief marketing Amy Adams at ads that will run in print, online Hilfi ger believes the company and brand offi cer at Hilfi ger, said the “Big Eyes” and on billboards worldwide. will benefi t from Nadal’s global the company approached Nadal screening. The photographer hasn’t been recognition. directly. “He’s been a friend of PHOTO BY STEVE EICHNER PHOTO BY confi rmed yet. In addition, Nadal “If you go to countries like Tommy’s for a long time and a will attend exclusive Hilfiger India, China and Japan, tennis supporter of the brand. We feel launch events in North he personifi es the spirit of America, Europe and Asia. the brand. He’s one of the News of American Apparel’s Dov Charney being ousted for This is the second un- Rafael Nadal world’s most iconic ath- good is just one of many unfortunate events to hit the company derwear modeling gig for letes, and he’s got a touch this year. PAGE 1 Nadal for a major fash- of the rebel spirit. He has ion brand. In 2011, he ap- tremendous appeal globally The Puma headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany, was peared with Megan Fox in ’’ for men and women around said to be in turmoil on Tuesday, following the visit of its new steamy ads for Emporio the world.” women’s creative director: Rihanna. PAGE 1 Armani Underwear and She said the company Armani Jeans. did market research and Wal-Mart Stores Inc. on Tuesday said it had been Industry sources es- found that Nadal had a 91 ordered to pay $188 million in a class-action lawsuit fi led timate Nadal’s two-year percent awareness level in in 2002 by Wal-Mart and Sam’s Club employees. PAGE 6 Hilfiger deal could be Asia, 95 percent in Europe worth $3 million to $4 mil- and 75 percent in America. is taking a step away from the runway-show lion. Hilfi ger offi cials de- “He’s very likeable.” Marios Schwab clined comment. She called the appoint- circuit as of the fall season in February, showing the collection Nadal has won 14 ment “a pretty signifi cant by appointment in London. PAGE 6 Grand Slam titles and is move for us.” The brand ranked number three in hasn’t done a singular cat- Best known for its wildly patterned woven men’s shirts, the ATP rankings. The egory-focused campaign manufacturer Robert Graham has been looking for an Spanish tennis pro has on a global scale in a long investor, according to two market sources. PAGE 6 struggled with various in- time. “It will complement juries, including a wrist what we do with Hilfi ger’s Mike Toth, founder, president and chief creative offi cer of injury that sidelined him We want to institutional campaign,” Toth + Co., died Thursday at Massachusetts General Hospital from the U.S. Open in Baker said. in Boston. PAGE 9 August. He had season- take [tailored clothing] She predicted the com- ending appendicitis sur- bination of “The Hilfi gers” Gloria Gelfand, an indomitable force in the fashion industry for gery in November. Nadal is and the Nadal campaign 65 years, died of pneumonia Tuesday at Hospice of St. Mary’s training and has confi rmed to a new level with will impact the consumer. in Callaway, Md., according to her son Lewis. PAGE 9 he will participate in the Asked why they decided 2015 Mubadala World performance fabrics, to hire Nadal for tailored Kering’s challenge to fi nd the right person to take Gucci into Tennis Championship in clothing and underwear, the next phase will be particularly diffi cult, for it must fi rst clarify she said, “Obviously we Abu Dhabi from Jan. 1 to slimmer suits and more exactly what the essence of the heritage house is. PAGE 10 Jan. 3 and the Argentina have an extremely strong Open in February. men’s business globally. We “Rafael Nadal has been sophisticated tailoring. think these are the two cat- Staffers at The New York Times were reportedly sent an e-mail a longtime personal friend egories that have the most from the New York Newspaper Guild indicating that layoffs and supporter of our — TOMMY HILFIGER significant growth poten- would take place Tuesday and Wednesday. PAGE 11 brand, and I’m continuous- tial. We wanted to get back ly inspired by his dedication and is enormous. There are fanat- into underwear in a more sexy Digging into Pierre Gagnaire’s process, infl uences and passion for his sport,” Hilfiger ics and fans that don’t watch way. Tailored is a business that accolades shows why he is regarded as one of the most said. He said he originally met American sports, but they watch we really believe in, and it’s been creative chefs in the business. PAGE 12 Nadal in Monaco during the tennis,” he said. “The interna- growing a lot and has a lot of po- Monte Carlo Grand Slam about tional sports fan watches tennis. tential and is so important to con- eight years ago. He and his entou- The schedule is so rigorous. He’s tinue elevating the brand.” ON WWD.COM rage have been wearing Hilfi ger’s playing every week.” Hilfiger Sports figures are increas- clothes for some time. said the tour takes Nadal all over ingly fi nding a home with apparel BIG EYES PREMIERE: Tim Burton’s new fi lm “Big Eyes” premiered “We believe the underwear the world and he’ll represent the brands. Some strictly are the face in New York on Monday night. For more, see WWD.com. business can be a huge business brand worldwide. This is the fi rst of the brand, while others have for us,” said Hilfi ger, noting that time Hilfi ger has had a major developed actual collections for the business has been underde- global athlete under contract.’’the company. David Beckham de- veloped at the company. Hilfi ger “I’ve always admired Tommy signs swimwear and bodywear for FOLLOW US ON SOCIAL MEDIA has a strong tailored clothing Hilfi ger’s cool, all-American de- H&M, does a capsule collection @ WWD.com/social business, both in the U.S. and signs which are sophisticated for Belstaff, and recently struck Europe, he said. “We want to and easy to wear, and I’m excited a multifaceted deal with Global TO E-MAIL REPORTERS AND EDITORS AT WWD, THE ADDRESS IS [email protected], USING THE INDIVIDUAL’S NAME. take it to a new level with per- to be partnering with the brand,” Brands Group for his own brand; WWD IS A REGISTERED TRADEMARK OF FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. formance fabrics, slimmer suits Nadal said. basketball star Shaquille O’Neal COPYRIGHT ©2014 FAIRCHILD PUBLISHING, LLC. ALL RIGHTS RESERVED. PRINTED IN THE U.S.A. VOLUME 208, NO. 124. WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014. WWD (ISSN 0149-5380) is published daily (except Saturdays, and more sophisticated tailoring. WWD interviewed Nadal last has a men’s tailored clothing col- Sundays and holidays, with one additional issue in March, April, May, June, August, October, November and December, and We’ve become very serious about year, when he described his style lection with Peerless Clothing; two additional issues in February and September) by Fairchild Media, LLC, which is a division of Penske Business Media, LLC. PRINCIPAL OFFICE: 11175 Santa Monica Blvd., 9th Fl, Los Angeles, CA 90025. Periodicals postage paid at Los Angeles, CA, the tailored clothing business,” off the court as “classic,” which soccer star Cristiano Ronaldo has and at additional mailing offi ces. Canada Post: return undeliverable Canadian addresses to P.O. Box 503, RPO West Beaver Cre, said the designer. would be a good match for Hilfi ger. launched men’s shirts and foot- Rich-Hill, ON L4B 4R6. POSTMASTER: SEND ADDRESS CHANGES TO WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593. The U.S. tailored clothing col- “I’m a classic guy. I like to wear under the CR7 label; Henrik FOR SUBSCRIPTIONS, ADDRESS CHANGES, ADJUSTMENTS, OR BACK ISSUE INQUIRIES: Please write to WWD, P.O. Box 6356, Harlan, IA, 51593, call 866-401-7801, or e-mail customer service at wwdPrint@cdsfulfi llment.com. Please lection is licensed to Marcraft. wear jeans, polo shirt, normally. Lundqvist, the New York Rangers include both new and old addresses as printed on most recent label. For New York Hand Delivery Service address changes The global tailored clothing col- To go out, it depends on the situ- hockey player, launched a clothing or inquiries, please contact Mitchell’s NY at 1-800-662-2275, option 7. Subscribers: If the Post Offi ce alerts us that your magazine is undeliverable, we have no further obligation unless we receive a corrected address within one year. lection is produced in-house. The ation, or if I am in the winter or line called the Crown Collection If during your subscription term or up to one year after the magazine becomes undeliverable, you are ever dissatisfi ed tailored collection includes suits, I am in the summer, no? If I am in 2012 and creates capsule collec- with your subscription, let us know. You will receive a full refund on all unmailed issues. First copy of new subscription will be mailed within four weeks after receipt of order. We reserve the right to change the number of issues contained in a sport coats, furnishings and ties. in the winter I like to wear jeans, tions and is the face of men’s un- subscription term and/or the way the product is delivered. Address all editorial, business, and production correspondence to Both underwear and tailored shirt and jacket. If I am in sum- derwear and bodywear for Bread WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY, 750 Third Avenue, New York, NY 10017. For permissions requests, please call 212-630-5656 or fax request to 212-630-5883. For reprints, please e-mail [email protected] or call Wright’s Media 877-652-5295. collections are sold at Tommy mer, I like jeans and T-shirt or & Boxers, and Nacho Figueras, For reuse permissions, please e-mail [email protected] or call 800-897-8666. Visit us online at www.wwd.com. Hilfi ger stores globally, through jeans and polo. Classic,” he said. the Argentinian polo player, has To subscribe to other Fairchild Media, LLC magazines on the World Wide Web, visit www.wwd.com/subscriptions. WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IS NOT RESPONSIBLE FOR THE RETURN OR LOSS OF, OR FOR DAMAGE OR ANY OTHER INJURY TO, select wholesale partners and However, on the court, Nadal’s been the face of Ralph Lauren’s UNSOLICITED MANUSCRIPTS, UNSOLICITED ART WORK (INCLUDING, BUT NOT LIMITED TO, DRAWINGS, PHOTOGRAPHS, online at tommy.com. true colors come out. “[On the] Black Label line since 2005, and AND TRANSPARENCIES), OR ANY OTHER UNSOLICITED MATERIALS. THOSE SUBMITTING MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, ART WORK, OR OTHER MATERIALS FOR CONSIDERATION SHOULD NOT SEND ORIGINALS, UNLESS SPECIFICALLY Asked whether Nadal will court, I am not that classic. Court was selected to represent the en- REQUESTED TO DO SO BY WOMEN’S WEAR DAILY IN WRITING. MANUSCRIPTS, PHOTOGRAPHS, AND OTHER MATERIALS have an input into the collection’s is a little bit different. I like the tire line of Polo fragrances. SUBMITTED MUST BE ACCOMPANIED BY A SELF-ADDRESSED STAMPED ENVELOPE. 20

FAIRCHILD SUMMITS15 & EVENTS

WWD DIGITAL BEAUTY FORUM: NEW YORK February 12, New York City WWD MEN’S WEAR SUMMIT March 26, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: LONDON April 30, London FOOTWEAR NEWS CEO SUMMIT May 11-13, Miami WWD BEAUTY SUMMIT June 9-10, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: NEW YORK CITY September 16-17, New York City WWD APPAREL & RETAIL CEO SUMMIT October 27-28, New York City WWD DIGITAL FORUM: LOS ANGELES November 10, Los Angeles

*Dates subject to change

TO ATTEND: [email protected], 212.630.4212 TO SPONSOR: [email protected], 212.630.4824

@wwdsummits Fairchild Summits @wwdsummits 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 Rag & Bone Alice + Olivia Pre-Fall 2015 Rag & Bone: David Neville Boss: Well into his first year at the Red Valentino collection and Marcus Wainwright Boss, Jason Wu continued to back to the Sixties: Peace and almost always design under crystallize and push his vision love patches appeared on the influence of men’s wear, in his pre-fall collection, which army jackets and pants; groovy tailoring, etc. — it’s in their centered around core men’s florals were done in flirty short English roots. For pre-fall wear elements reinterpreted dresses with collars, and pop- they took it easy, co-opting for women. He made his point art geometrics showed up on pocket squares and pajamas boldly via a houndstooth everything from A-line skirts to for precise prints and loose motif, which was blown up as shift dresses. At times, things silhouettes, such as navy and a digital print on a shirtdress, got crafty — as in the multicolor burgundy paneled-silk dresses and a cotton tweed on a skirt hand-knitted jumpers and wide and pajama sets that conjured teamed with an exaggerated tulle skirts — but the short classic gentlemanly charm windowpane top, the latter look black dresses with scalloped from a cool girl’s point of nodding to Sixties London. hems and metal eyelets brought view. “It’s old-school, but very Wu also worked the mannish the rebellious streak back. Red feminine,” said Wainwright. vibe in the lineup’s strong — MAYTE ALLENDE Valentino Not derived from pajamas tailoring, as well as in his new or pocket squares, but still take on the white shirt. A staple Giulietta: It’s rare to see the a sharp look, was a cropped of the house, he reworked it sci-fi era of the Sixties, known denim jacket and button-up into an elongated, tuniclike for its Courrèges curves and Giulietta A-line skirt. white cotton version, which modular shapes, interpreted in Relaxed blazers in added a languid touch to a a whimsical and womanly way. pinstripes and dot prints worn tuxedo look. The overall theme Sofia Sizzi handled the retro over sporty dresses and track extended to the finer details, motif with rich color — purple, pants captured the intersection too: Chelsea boots and cuff-link teal and yellow — and playful of laid-back and dressed-up, inspired hardware on slim belts patterns, such as a bonded an attitude crystallized in the that cinched the waist. These, hourglass shape on a color- look book, shot in London on the designer said, will also be a blocked dress. Hemlines were Olympia Campbell, younger feature come fall. longer than the classic Mod sister of Edie. — MARC KARIMZADEH mini, and dresses, such as a — JESSICA IREDALE neat zip-up color-blocked style Paule Ka: It’s a transitional in a dense bonded jersey, had Thakoon: A black-and-white season at Paule Ka, awaiting accentuated waistlines, giving paparazzi shot of Mia Farrow a new designer and manager the look a fresh femininity. found in an old issue of following the exit in July of — J.I. Maurizio Cattelan’s Permanent founder Serge Cajfinger, who Timo Weiland: “Midcentury Boss Food magazine provided served as its creative director Florida architecture” were the Thakoon Panichgul’s visual and chairman since 1987. buzzwords at Timo Weiland. inspiration for pre-fall. “If No matter. The design team The design trio — comprised there is an overall message, continued to mine the Parisian of Weiland, who grew up it’s a bohemian quality with a brand’s favorite decade — the in Florida, as well as Alan moodiness,” he said, explaining Sixties — yielding trapeze Eckstein and Donna Kang — that the collection was more dresses, beatnik turtlenecks translated the concept into about reworking ideas that and a glossy tweed cape Emma feminine and sporty separates have been commercially viable Peel might have worn. This done in a neutral palette than pushing an overt theme. prim, risk-free collection with pops of primary colors. Novelty knits and textured also was spiked with athletic The lineup’s signature print, artisanal fabrics have been a touches: leather dresses and which Weiland described as an hit for him, and will continue coats with intarsia stripes, a abstract blend of leopard and to be if this lineup was any run of cropped bomber jackets, rain droplets, was blown up on indication. A wool jacquard and bicolor sneakers. knits and miniaturized onto coat in a mosaic tile pattern — MILES SOCHA custom jacquard separates, had a removable shearling while a silver-gray pleated silk collar and oversize knit Peter Jensen: Taking a multiple- skirt with sheer details added cuffs for robust coziness. An muse approach this season, considerable polish. exploded tweed jacket with Peter Jensen tapped into the — K.G. an unfinished fringe trim was spirit of Truman Capote’s laced with bold colors, such 1966 Black and White Ball, Sachin & Babi: “We came up as turquoise and red. The whose masked guests included with our own artwork: a flying outerwear was an exercise in Penelope Tree, Candice Bergen fish against the sky,” said Babi homespun chic, but there was and Marella Agnelli. Those Ahluwalia as she held up a plenty to layer under it, too, ladies’ masks inspired the printed dress. “It’s a surreal such as heathered ribbed knits jaunty bunny prints on silk sensibility.” The duo’s love of — cropped pajama pants and dresses and the swan patterns technical fabrics — Neoprene poor-boy trapeze sweaters — on blouses. Silver Lurex with chiffon, leather and riffs on men’s shirts. jersey — resembling a starry mesh, brushable FOR MORE — J.I. sky — was shaped into pencil sequins — was on full PRE-FALL 2015, SEE skirts and trousers. There were display in their sporty Alice + Olivia: Stacey Bendet’s girlish touches, too, such as a pre-fall collection. A WWD.com/ pre-fall muse was Loulou de large bow adorning the collar black Neoprene topper runway. la Falaise, and she fused the of a dress, frills spilling down with lattice cutouts and late fashion personality’s chic the front of a white polo shirt, floral appliqués showed the bohemian style with a ladylike and a big P (for Penelope) on designers’ ideas in a chic way. Forties flair. “A lot of the a varsity jacket that had been — K.G. Timo fabrics have a vintage feel, but lengthened into a coat. Weiland everything is mixed up to be Jensen’s presentation in Ulla Johnson: With handcrafted made modern,” Bendet said. London featured tap dancers, details and global sourcing as “She was this very powerful rather than models, performing her touchstones, Ulla Johnson woman, and I wanted the a routine dressed in the masterfully balanced her clothes to feel strong.” clothing, but this had more to signature boho spirit with Done in a kaleidoscope of do with his fantasies than with boyish, utilitarian pieces for with raw edges. “As groovy as it said during a walk-through of wool coats. She took her best- abstract leopard, mosaic and the reality of the Black and pre-fall, grouping them into a is, it’s also very urban-based,” her pre-fall lineup, which, for selling silk slipdress down baroque prints with pops of White bash. series of vignettes. In a palette Johnson said. the first time, incorporated a pitch by styling it under a orange, aqua and red, the looks “I could envision Candice of navy, white and burgundy, — K.G. more cold-weather looks hoodie — with beat-up sneakers channeled a Seventies vibe. Bergen and Tallulah Bankhead she worked in romantic details after increased demand from — for the ultimate cool-girl There were long vests, printed tap dancing away in all their — hand-stitched embroidery, Nili Lotan: Don’t expect an epic customers and retail partners. swagger. gaucho pants and ponchos, as finery,” said the Danish miniature floral and ikat revolution from Nili Lotan; the “I get a kick out of the little — K.G. well as tailored suiting and lace designer. “And I do think prints, fringe and lace — on designer opts for more subtle things: colors, textures, yarns.” and handkerchief maxi dresses. showing the clothes this way her lineup of silk georgette evolutions from season to Inspired by the skyline and Thakoon Addition: Thakoon Rich textures and fabrics, such brings a modernity to them.” peasant blouses, knits and season, tweaking her aesthetic rooftops in the Saint-Germain- Panichgul applied the same as matching skirt sets done in — SAMANTHA CONTI crisp poplin shirts. Denim, with a delicate hand. “The des-Prés district of Paris, Lotan crafty moodiness and black- army green suede, gave the introduced last spring, came freshness of just having shades hit the mark with lush, slouchy and-white mosaic motif from collection a luxe feel. Red Valentino: Pierpaolo Piccioli in a Seventies-flared jean and of gray [instead of blacks and sweaters paired with cropped, his main collection to Addition, — KRISTI GARCED and Maria Grazia Chiuri took a military-inspired jumpsuit whites] — that excites me,” she low-slung trousers and oversize here, with a younger, sportier 4 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 5 Rag & Bone Alice + Olivia Thakoon WWD.COM

Thakoon Ulla Paule Ka Pre-Fall 2015 Addition Johnson Rag & Bone: David Neville Boss: Well into his first year at the Red Valentino collection and Marcus Wainwright Boss, Jason Wu continued to back to the Sixties: Peace and almost always design under crystallize and push his vision love patches appeared on the influence of men’s wear, in his pre-fall collection, which army jackets and pants; groovy tailoring, etc. — it’s in their centered around core men’s florals were done in flirty short English roots. For pre-fall wear elements reinterpreted dresses with collars, and pop- they took it easy, co-opting for women. He made his point art geometrics showed up on pocket squares and pajamas boldly via a houndstooth everything from A-line skirts to for precise prints and loose motif, which was blown up as shift dresses. At times, things silhouettes, such as navy and a digital print on a shirtdress, got crafty — as in the multicolor burgundy paneled-silk dresses and a cotton tweed on a skirt hand-knitted jumpers and wide and pajama sets that conjured teamed with an exaggerated tulle skirts — but the short classic gentlemanly charm windowpane top, the latter look black dresses with scalloped from a cool girl’s point of nodding to Sixties London. hems and metal eyelets brought view. “It’s old-school, but very Wu also worked the mannish the rebellious streak back. Red feminine,” said Wainwright. vibe in the lineup’s strong — MAYTE ALLENDE Valentino Not derived from pajamas tailoring, as well as in his new or pocket squares, but still take on the white shirt. A staple Giulietta: It’s rare to see the a sharp look, was a cropped of the house, he reworked it sci-fi era of the Sixties, known denim jacket and button-up into an elongated, tuniclike for its Courrèges curves and Giulietta A-line skirt. white cotton version, which modular shapes, interpreted in Relaxed blazers in added a languid touch to a a whimsical and womanly way. pinstripes and dot prints worn tuxedo look. The overall theme Sofia Sizzi handled the retro Raoul Nili over sporty dresses and track extended to the finer details, motif with rich color — purple, Lotan pants captured the intersection too: Chelsea boots and cuff-link teal and yellow — and playful of laid-back and dressed-up, inspired hardware on slim belts patterns, such as a bonded an attitude crystallized in the that cinched the waist. These, hourglass shape on a color- look book, shot in London on the designer said, will also be a blocked dress. Hemlines were Olympia Campbell, younger feature come fall. longer than the classic Mod sister of Edie. — MARC KARIMZADEH mini, and dresses, such as a — JESSICA IREDALE neat zip-up color-blocked style Paule Ka: It’s a transitional in a dense bonded jersey, had Thakoon: A black-and-white season at Paule Ka, awaiting accentuated waistlines, giving paparazzi shot of Mia Farrow a new designer and manager the look a fresh femininity. found in an old issue of following the exit in July of — J.I. Peter Maurizio Cattelan’s Permanent founder Serge Cajfinger, who Timo Weiland: “Midcentury Jensen Boss Food magazine provided served as its creative director Florida architecture” were the Thakoon Panichgul’s visual and chairman since 1987. buzzwords at Timo Weiland. inspiration for pre-fall. “If No matter. The design team The design trio — comprised there is an overall message, continued to mine the Parisian of Weiland, who grew up it’s a bohemian quality with a brand’s favorite decade — the in Florida, as well as Alan moodiness,” he said, explaining Sixties — yielding trapeze Eckstein and Donna Kang — that the collection was more dresses, beatnik turtlenecks translated the concept into about reworking ideas that and a glossy tweed cape Emma feminine and sporty separates have been commercially viable Peel might have worn. This done in a neutral palette than pushing an overt theme. prim, risk-free collection with pops of primary colors. Novelty knits and textured also was spiked with athletic The lineup’s signature print, artisanal fabrics have been a touches: leather dresses and which Weiland described as an hit for him, and will continue coats with intarsia stripes, a abstract blend of leopard and to be if this lineup was any run of cropped bomber jackets, rain droplets, was blown up on indication. A wool jacquard and bicolor sneakers. knits and miniaturized onto coat in a mosaic tile pattern — MILES SOCHA custom jacquard separates, Iris von Sachin & had a removable shearling while a silver-gray pleated silk Arnim Babi collar and oversize knit Peter Jensen: Taking a multiple- skirt with sheer details added cuffs for robust coziness. An muse approach this season, considerable polish. exploded tweed jacket with Peter Jensen tapped into the — K.G. an unfinished fringe trim was spirit of Truman Capote’s laced with bold colors, such 1966 Black and White Ball, Sachin & Babi: “We came up as turquoise and red. The whose masked guests included with our own artwork: a flying outerwear was an exercise in Penelope Tree, Candice Bergen fish against the sky,” said Babi homespun chic, but there was and Marella Agnelli. Those Ahluwalia as she held up a plenty to layer under it, too, ladies’ masks inspired the printed dress. “It’s a surreal such as heathered ribbed knits jaunty bunny prints on silk sensibility.” The duo’s love of — cropped pajama pants and dresses and the swan patterns technical fabrics — Neoprene poor-boy trapeze sweaters — on blouses. Silver Lurex with chiffon, leather and riffs on men’s shirts. jersey — resembling a starry mesh, brushable FOR MORE — J.I. sky — was shaped into pencil sequins — was on full PRE-FALL 2015, SEE skirts and trousers. There were display in their sporty Alice + Olivia: Stacey Bendet’s girlish touches, too, such as a pre-fall collection. A WWD.com/ pre-fall muse was Loulou de large bow adorning the collar black Neoprene topper runway. la Falaise, and she fused the of a dress, frills spilling down with lattice cutouts and late fashion personality’s chic the front of a white polo shirt, floral appliqués showed the bohemian style with a ladylike and a big P (for Penelope) on designers’ ideas in a chic way. Forties flair. “A lot of the a varsity jacket that had been — K.G. Timo fabrics have a vintage feel, but lengthened into a coat. Weiland everything is mixed up to be Jensen’s presentation in Ulla Johnson: With handcrafted made modern,” Bendet said. London featured tap dancers, details and global sourcing as “She was this very powerful rather than models, performing her touchstones, Ulla Johnson

woman, and I wanted the a routine dressed in the masterfully balanced her GEORGE CHINSEE BY ERICKSEN; BOSS AND LOTAN KYLE BY ADDITION, ALICE + OLIVIA AND RAOUL JOHN AQUINO; THAKOON, AND BABI PHOTOS BY & BONE, WEILAND,RAG GIULIETTA clothes to feel strong.” clothing, but this had more to signature boho spirit with Done in a kaleidoscope of do with his fantasies than with boyish, utilitarian pieces for with raw edges. “As groovy as it said during a walk-through of wool coats. She took her best- attitude. He mixed flannels and on dresses and skirts. Tones of Iris von Arnim: Iris von Arnim Hamburg-based designer re- abstract leopard, mosaic and the reality of the Black and pre-fall, grouping them into a is, it’s also very urban-based,” her pre-fall lineup, which, for selling silk slipdress down plaids with oversize chunky blue, red and yellow conveyed borrowed from the early 20th- cently introduced stonewashed baroque prints with pops of White bash. series of vignettes. In a palette Johnson said. the first time, incorporated a pitch by styling it under a knits, playing with cropped a fall sensibility, though even century Bauhaus architecture cashmere: Sweaters are knit- orange, aqua and red, the looks “I could envision Candice of navy, white and burgundy, — K.G. more cold-weather looks hoodie — with beat-up sneakers proportions for a look that was traditionally cold-weather knits movement for her pre-fall ted in raw yarn, dyed and then channeled a Seventies vibe. Bergen and Tallulah Bankhead she worked in romantic details after increased demand from — for the ultimate cool-girl cozy, downtown cool. like alpaca and tweed had a collection, an inspiration stonewashed, leaving each one There were long vests, printed tap dancing away in all their — hand-stitched embroidery, Nili Lotan: Don’t expect an epic customers and retail partners. swagger. — J.I. lightweight feel. Gaucho pants, that was most evident in her unique. gaucho pants and ponchos, as finery,” said the Danish miniature floral and ikat revolution from Nili Lotan; the “I get a kick out of the little — K.G. done in burgundy suede and use of rectangular shapes A few soft leather looks — in- well as tailored suiting and lace designer. “And I do think prints, fringe and lace — on designer opts for more subtle things: colors, textures, yarns.” Raoul: Odile Benjamin found printed silk, anchored the looks and a palette of cement cluding a hooded lambskin jack- and handkerchief maxi dresses. showing the clothes this way her lineup of silk georgette evolutions from season to Inspired by the skyline and Thakoon Addition: ThakoonThakoon herself in a “big city lights” with a cool sense of proportion, gray, tangerine and topaz for et, high-waisted trousers and a Rich textures and fabrics, such brings a modernity to them.” peasant blouses, knits and season, tweaking her aesthetic rooftops in the Saint-Germain- Panichgul applied the same state of mind for pre-fall at while a tweed dress finished knitwear. gathered, above-the-knee skirt as matching skirt sets done in — SAMANTHA CONTI crisp poplin shirts. Denim, with a delicate hand. “The des-Prés district of Paris, Lotan crafty moodiness and black- Raoul, a vision most evident in off with fringe detailing and an Known as the queen of cash- — proved to be chic comple- army green suede, gave the introduced last spring, came freshness of just having shades hit the mark with lush, slouchy and-white mosaic motif from her use of oversize rhinestone asymmetric hemline was fun mere — von Arnim was among ments to the colorful cashmere collection a luxe feel. Red Valentino: Pierpaolo Piccioli in a Seventies-flared jean and of gray [instead of blacks and sweaters paired with cropped, his main collection to Addition, appliqués on evening gowns yet polished. the first to bring the luxe yarn to sweaters. — KRISTI GARCED and Maria Grazia Chiuri took a military-inspired jumpsuit whites] — that excites me,” she low-slung trousers and oversize here, with a younger, sportier and geometric “highway” prints — K.G. Germany in the Eighties — the — K.G. Captions: Jean Paul Gaultier (3464) Camille Cerf (3442) Marie-Christiane Marek and Françoise Montenay (3390) Stéphane Rolland (3418) Farida Khelfa (3501)

Credit: Dominique Maître 6 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014

was honored during the British then three years with Thierry Fashion Awards ceremony on Mugler before launching his FASHION SCOOPS Dec. 1 with a show of looks signature couture in 2009. created by some of her former — M.S. pupils including Christopher SKIPPING THE RUNWAY: Marios number of fashion houses with Kane and Mary Katrantzou. LA PERLA IN PARIS: La Perla Schwab is taking a step away from stores in Miami’s Design District. The soundtrack to the short is going to present its new the runway-show circuit. As of A 4,300-square-foot, two-story presentation featured the song Atelier Collection during the the fall season in February, the Giorgio Armani boutique just “Remember Me,” by Diana Ross, upcoming Paris couture shows. London-based designer will hold opened there, its interior created and a voice-over by Samuel L. Designed by an in-house team appointments for editors in London by the designer and his team of Jackson reciting some of Wilson’s overseen by La Perla creative to show the collection, and will architects. It offers both ready-to- stinging — and often foul- AÎTRE director Emiliano Rinaldi, the M release images of the collection wear and accessories for women mouthed — turns of phrase. collection will include a range to press Feb. 20. Schwab said and men in an environment that Famous for her colorful of total looks reflecting the

Tuesday that the aim is to create reflects the Armani ethos. Among vocabulary, sense of drama and OMINIQUE signature elements of the D “a more personal and captivating the details are gray marmorino utter dedication to her pupils, Jean Paul brand’s offering. environment for my collections.” plaster walls, teak tables with Wilson helped to identify and Gaultier “We took our idea of

“Every garment has its own black glass tops, and mirror- sharpen the talents of designers PHOTO BY lingerie that can be worn story and I want to…allow viewers effect steel details that read including Kane, Katrantzou, not only as innerwear to the to explore and experience natural bamboo. The store brings McQueen, Sophia Kokosalaki Fashion journalist Marie- extreme level,” said La Perla each piece in a way that feels Armani Group’s number of total and Richard Nicoll. The fashion Christiane Marek joined the newly global marketing director authentic,” the designer said. stores to 185, of which 18 are department at Central Saint crowned Miss France Camille Nick Tacchi. “We didn’t want Schwab, who is of Greek and Giorgio Armani boutiques. Martins is seeking to establish Cerf on the stage at the Théâtre to start from the elements of Austrian descent, has shown — MARC KARIMZADEH contact with her former students, des Champs Elysées to drive up a ready-to-wear collection, independently at London Fashion and wants them to register their the bids. The sale netted 70,000 but, remaining rooted in our Week since the spring 2007 season. IN MEMORIAM: A memorial service contact details at Memorial@tcs- euros, or $86,800 at current tradition, we created outfits The new presentation setting will for the late Prof. Louise Wilson uk.net. — SAMANTHA CONTI exchange, for cancer charities. that we think women can wear see the label focus on its “artisanal will take place in February Marek dedicated the event not just privately.” roots,” Schwab noted, with the at St. Paul’s Cathedral, and BRANCH MANAGERS: You can take to Yves Carcelle, the popular The collection, which will emphasis on the designer’s in anticipation of the event, a couturier out of the studio, Louis Vuitton executive who be unveiled on Jan. 26 at Paris’ cocktail and eveningwear. The organizers are scouring the globe but you can’t necessarily keep died earlier this year, and Hotel Salomon de Rothschild, company noted that the new for alumni of the Central Saint his mind off fashion. hosted a luxurious dinner at will also include a shoe range, direction will see Schwab further Martins MA Fashion Course that Taking his seat at the Restaurant Maison Blanche realized in collaboration with develop his in-house atelier. she ran from 1992 to 2014. The Sapins de Noël des Créateurs overlooking the lights on Avenue Giuseppe Zanotti. Sales for the fall collection invitation-only service will take (Designer Christmas trees) Montaigne. Ever the fund- After the show, the will be held at Rainbowwave’s place Friday, Feb. 20, the first day charity dinner in Paris on raiser, Marek shushed collection will be Paris showroom from March 5 of London Fashion Week, at the Monday night, Jean Paul Gaultier everyone during FOR MORE showcased in the through 13, also by appointment. same church where memorials spied his snowflake-shaped dessert and revealed SCOOPS, SEE private room on the — NINA JONES for Lee Alexander McQueen and straw place mat and plopped that the artistic second floor of the Vidal Sassoon were also held. it on his head. Voila! — an off- centerpieces at the WWD.com. brand’s Parisian BIENVENIDO A MIAMI: Giorgio Wilson died of natural causes kilter hat. Next stop, his left 26 tables, towering flagship on Rue du Armani has joined the growing earlier this year, aged 52, and pec. Voila! — half of a racy compositions of golden Faubourg Saint- bustier. His neighbor, Farida spindles and twigs, were also for Honoré, where top clients Khelfa, erupted in laughter. sale. — MILES SOCHA will be able to place their The designer, who cut his orders. While the company’s thumb opening a can and had it HIGH ROAD: Alexandre Vauthier flagships worldwide will carry bandaged in white, also had an has been awarded the right the less elaborate pieces in opinion on the work required to use the haute couture the line, La Perla will organize to close the gash. “The stitches appellation, a distinction special private sales in various are not very nice. I thought they administered by France’s cities across the world. would be invisible,” he said. ministry of industry. A The brand, which after Stéphane Rolland, perfumer commission met on Dec. 16 years of financial troubles Francis Kurkdjian and pastry chef and anointed Vauthier as the was acquired by Pacific Pierre Hermé were among the Chambre Syndicale’s newest Global Management last June, personalities who gathered for full-fledged member. Previously, is currently renovating its

SKAR LANDI an auction of the 33 trees, made he was a guest member. flagship on New York’s Madison A 4,300-square-foot Giorgio Armani O of everything from white fur The French designer spent Avenue, which is slated to open boutique opened in Miami’s Design District. (Gaultier) to a pile of metallic eight years as studio director at the end of January.

PHOTO BY PHOTO BY ornaments (Christian Dior.) for Jean Paul Gaultier couture and — ALESSANDRA TURRA Wal-Mart Told to Pay $188M in Suit Robert Graham Said by formula rather than having each of the By SHARON EDELSON 187,000 workers testify. “We disagree with the decision, and con- Seeking an Investor WAL-MART STORES INC. on Tuesday said tinue to believe that these claims should it had been ordered by the Pennsylvania not be bundled together into a class-action 11 stores around the country as well Supreme Court to pay $188 million to settle a lawsuit,” Wal-Mart said in a statement. “We By EVAN CLARK and as more than 70 shops-in-shop at class-action lawsuit filed in 2002 by employ- are reviewing the opinion closely and con- JEAN PALMERI specialty stores and a few depart- ees at Wal-Mart and Sam’s Club who claimed sidering our options, including a petition ment stores. that the retailer failed to pay them for work- for review by the U.S. Supreme Court. Most ROBERT GRAHAM might be ready According to sources, since ing off the clock and prevented them from of these claims are over 10 years old. Wal- for a new partner. Tengram invested in the company, taking their full meal and rest breaks. Mart has had strong policies in place to The manufacturer, best known the brand has become much more While it considers its next course of action, make sure all associates receive their ap- for its wildly patterned woven men’s visible and potential purchasers Wal-Mart said charges related to the lawsuit propriate pay and break periods. We have shirts, has been pounding the pave- have begun sniffing around, al- will reduce its fourth-quarter earnings by taken additional steps over the last decade, ment looking for an investor, accord- though Robert Graham is not offi- about 6 cents per share. including enhancing our timekeeping sys- ing to two market sources. cially for sale. Because of the suc- The Pennsylvania Supreme Court’s opin- tems and additional training, to make sure This wouldn’t be the first time for cess the brand has achieved and ion largely upholds the judgment that was all our associates understand the impor- the brand. the aggressive growth planned for entered against Wal-Mart in a 2007 case of tance of those policies and comply with Connecticut-based private-eq- next year, Tengram may not yet be about $188 million and an award of back- them. We are committed to our 1.3 million uity firm Tengram Capital Partners ready to cash out. But if a hefty pay plus statutory penalties, attorneys’ associates who work hard every day to made what it called a “significant fi- enough offer were to be made, fees, and prejudgment interest. Wal-Mart serve our customers.” nancial investment” into the compa- Tengram might sell its stake, ac- appealed that judgment, and in June 2011, Wal-Mart’s size and alleged business ny in 2011 to provide growth capital. cording to one observer. the Pennsylvania Superior Court of Appeals practices have made it a target of lawsuits, William Sweedler, cofounder Until that time, the private eq- reversed the portion of the ruling dealing especially class-action lawsuits. The most and managing partner of Tengram, uity firm has found other projects to with the award of attorneys’ fees, but oth- famous, Wal-Mart Stores Inc. v. Dukes, a told WWD: “We don’t comment on keep it busy. erwise affirmed the rest of the judgment. class-action, gender-discrimination law- what we’re doing with our portfolio In October, the investor acquired Wal-Mart appealed that decision to the suit, was brought on behalf of 1 million investment.” a majority stake in the Luciano Pennsylvania Supreme Court, which result- women who were employed by the retailer Originally only a men’s shirt Barbera brand, a luxury men’s and ed in Monday’s ruling affirming the deci- since 1998. The case made its way to the brand, Robert Graham has since women’s wear label based in Italy’s sion of the appeals court. Supreme Court, where a majority ruled that expanded into a variety of other Piedmont region. At the time of the Braun/Hummel v. Wal-Mart Stores Inc. the women did not constitute a class. A Wal- categories, including tailored cloth- acquisition, sources said Barbera represented about 187,000 employees who Mart spokesman said there are no pending ing, denim, eyewear, footwear and had worldwide sales of around $50 worked in Pennsylvania Wal-Mart and class-action lawsuits against the company. women’s wear, and its volume has million and Tengram plans to grow Sam’s Club stores between 1998 and 2006. “There are some on the wage and hour doubled to more than $300 million. sales four- to five-fold over the next In its unsuccessful appeals, Wal-Mart ar- [issue], but those are regional cases, not a The company also has significantly several years, Sweedler said at the gued that it was unfairly subjected to a trial national class action,” he said. expanded its retail presence, with time of the acquisition.

WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 7 WWD.COM

Rihanna Steps Into Puma Creative’’ Role {Continued from page one} The venture is the latest in a series of Puma’s WWD, while taking a short break from countless efforts to boost sales and burnish its brand image. meets and greets with the German activewear The activewear maker, which is controlled by brand’s managing board and the hundreds of French group Kering, is in the throes of a total employees who gathered to snap a few pics of makeover, eager to reposition itself as a perfor- the affable performer. mance sports brand “that also sells lifestyle — Calling her new assignment “a little bit sur- with sports as its anchor,” as Gulden, who took real,” the singer vowed “to come up with cool up offi ce in July 2013, put it. things that don’t even belong in Puma.” “It could The executive has been adamant about improv- even be down to suspenders,” she laughed. “We ing the brand’s distribution, including the opening can experiment and take risks, that’s what I’m most excited about — the creative freedom.” Gulden, Puma’s top executive noted that the brand has historically had a big female follow- Rihanna is part of a ing, citing the Speed Cat, Rihanna’s childhood favorite, as an example. strategy of renewing the “Women are much more active today, they are fi tter and lead a healthier lifestyle, and retail- ers understand that; they are increasingly giving brand and she was the last more space to women’s products, and so we see this as a growing segment,” he said. piece missing to go to the Xxxxxx Xxxxxx The brand’s women’s category accounts for less than 50 percent of sales at present, but the global market with a story. Xxxxxx Xxxxxx ailing sporting goods maker is counting on its Rihanna in new wing-woman. — BJØRN GULDEN activewear and By PAULINA SZMYDKE “Signing Rihanna is a fantastic step for Puma,” Puma crepe- Gulden said. “Her global profi le, her charisma sole sneakers. HERZOGENAURACH, Germany — “Women are the and individuality, her ambition — all these things of stores in India, China and the U.S., launching future,” an upbeat Bjørn Gulden told WWD at the make her a perfect brand ambassador for our new products and spending big on image and mar-

Puma headquarters in Herzogenaurach, Germany, brand. Rihanna is an icon for the young consumer keting, which is weighing on profi ts. which was in turmoil on Tuesday, following the visit — male and female. Obviously, the age group be- Rihanna’s visits coincided with reports that Singer on Love of Design of its new women’s creative director: Rihanna. tween 14 and 25 is what we are all targeting, and Kering earlier this year was in discussions about The seven-time Grammy Award winner and she speaks to that. Every research we have done possibly selling the active brand. WWD: What’s the fi rst thing Rihanna: Music and fashion go CFDA’s Fashion Icon laureate, who will offi cially take shows her on top of the list,” said the executive. The company saw its net earnings decline for that pops to your mind when hand in hand. I think music up her new role in January, fl ew in to Puma’s head- the past three years, but at last post- you hear Puma? inspires all types of arts; it quarters on Monday night for her fi rst creative ses- ed an improvement in sales in the Rihanna: My childhood. Some inspires life, emotion, mood, sion with the design team, picking out colors and fab- Rihanna for Puma. third quarter of this year. of the fi rst sneakers I owned and all of those things are rics, discussing styles and the line’s overall direction. “Just don’t measure success by were Puma, and I wore them to refl ected in my fashion and my As part of a multiyear partnership with the ac- the quarter, we are’’ in for the long death, until they had holes in style. One doesn’t go without tivewear fi rm, Rihanna will tackle Puma’s fi tness run,” said Gulden, who expects them. They were sleek running the other. and training line, which includes apparel as well as rosier times ahead. “I’ve always shoes, I had them in pink with shoes, “design and customize classic Puma styles and said 2014 would lay the basis for the black Puma ’’ stripes on the WWD: How serious are create new styles to add to the Puma product portfo- the turnaround, 2015 would actually side. They also made them in you about your designing lio,” the company said. see the turnaround, and I feel very Jamaican colors and so in the career? Are you ready to take Dressed in a cream ensemble that included a comfortable going forward. Rihanna Caribbean it was like: What? it deeper? bunch of pearls wrapped generously around her neck is part of a strategy of renewing the Jamaican colors? That was the Rihanna: I love designing. I’ve and descending softly on a vintage satin bustier, an brand and she was the last piece it-shoe in Barbados — if you always enjoyed it. The thing Yves Saint Laurent hooded sweater, track pants and a missing to go to the global market didn’t have those, [that was it]. I love most is the unexpected brand-new pair of Puma sneakers customized for the with a story. For 2016, our product You know how kids are. result between my brand and occasion with a crepe sole, the singer already showed range is where it should be.” theirs, the combination, the off her talent for mixing chic with sporty. Although Puma declined to re- WWD: How many pairs of marriage — it’s like having “I’m very excited about this. Whether it’s apparel veal the cost of the Rihanna pact, sneakers do you own, and do a baby, you put two things or shoes or accessories, I want to modernize it by which is the fi rst of its kind for the they outnumber your stilettos? together and all of the sudden highlighting the classics and going from things that brand, it is estimated that market- Rihanna: I have too many it bursts into a new thing. It’s make Puma Puma — give it a youthfulness, make ing costs in the third quarter ate up [sneakers] if that’s even possible; life. At River Island I was able it hip, basically [make it] Rihanna,” the singer told 35 million euros of the company’s earnings before interest and taxes, SEE PAGE XX or $46.4 million at average ex- change for the period, following the Music and fashion go hand in hand. launch of the “Forever Faster” cam- paign, billed as the biggest media I think music inspires all types of arts, push in the company’s history. Rihanna, who revealed the part- nership via her social media net- it inspires life, emotion, mood, work, will likely put the world’s third- largest sporting goods maker — after and all of those things are reflected Nike and next-door neighbor Adidas — ahead of its competitors, at least in in my fashion and my style. the digital spheres. The singer boasts 14.1 million — RIHANNA followers on Instagram and 38.3 million followers on Twitter. Known for her daring outfits they are mostly in storage to see stuff come to life, draw — including a nearly nude crystal now. [Rihanna catalogues all up an idea from scratch, and gown she wore to the CFDA Awards her performance looks in a that made me want to take on a — Rihanna is no stranger to the 4,000-square-foot storage unit, bigger challenge. And MAC was fashion business. of which roughly 1,000 square an amazing experience — from Gulden said Rihanna “hit it off with the de- The multitasking performer has done a col- feet is dedicated to shoes.] creating packaging to going sign team right away.” lection with British high-street retailer River They are probably on par with through textures. I would love “She speaks the language of design and cre- Island, which climaxed in a show during London my stilettos. I love a heel but to do cosmetics, because I love ativity, and that’s fun to see. I can already tell, Fashion Week, and struck a deal with MAC recently I’m tending more to beauty: choosing colors, creating she brings a lot of energy to the table.” Cosmetics, the beauty giant’s first long-term sneakers. Being in the studio, shapes. It’s like painting, you In addition, the 26-year-old is to act as the creative relationship with a celebrity. The new traveling, touring — you cannot just get to play. The’’ same way I company’s global brand ambassador, joining venture will likely take her fashion icon status do that in heels, unless you are treated MAC, I will attack Puma. ranks with Jamaican sprinter Usain Bolt, the to the next level. Posh Spice [she laughs]. She is world’s fastest man, and football star striker “Puma has such cool stuff, it’s already going in the airport with four kids and WWD: What’s next for Rihanna Mario Balotelli, among others, while also front- in the direction of the new, youthful, hip un- she gets it done. She is so legit’. in 2015? ing Puma’s ad campaign for fall 2015. derground designers and tastemakers. This is Rihanna: Releasing an album. I The Barbados native has previously modeled the right place for me to be. I just want to make WWD: How does music, your don’t know when exactly, but for Gucci, Emporio Armani and Balmain. Puma my taste. That’s the plan,” she said. core activity, relate to fashion? you will know when I know it. 8 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014

A Tumultuous 2014 Charney Turmoil Could Persist At American Apparel {Continued from page one} ago disqualified him from run- Charney has spent at least ning any company, let alone March: American Apparel said it most of his nine lives, but American Apparel. anticipates that its 2013 loss will he likely still has a sig- As the board investigated nearly quadruple to about $122.1 nificant part to play in the Charney, he got back to work million following difficulties putting story of American Apparel as a consultant for the retailer, its new distribution center online late — a company that is deeply popping up in stores, speaking in the year. Strapped for cash, the infused with his sensibility on a weekly conference call company sells 61 million new shares and micromanaging style. with store managers and show- at 50 cents each to raise capital. “I’m proud of what I cre- ing up at MAGIC’s Pool Trade ated at American Apparel Show in Las Vegas. Charney April: Shares hit a 52-week low and am confident that, as its seemed to be headed toward of 46 cents. largest shareholder, I will some measure of redemption

have a strong relationship and worked out an arrange- June: Dov Charney is ousted as with the company in the ment in principle that would chairman and suspended as president years ahead,” Charney said have allowed him to stay on in and chief executive officer over in a statement. “Naturally, some capacity. instances of “alleged misconduct” I am disappointed with the One source said a deal was following years of sexual harassment circumstances and my over worked out earlier this month accusations in a sexually heated

25 years of deep passion and and then Charney seemed to corporate environment. Charney files commitment for American disappear. With no agreement in for arbitration for unfair dismissal, Apparel will always be the hand, the company reverted to reportedly seeking $23 million to $25 core DNA of the company.” its initial plan to get rid of him. million in damages. Allan Mayer and American Apparel’s board A statement from American David Danziger are named cochairmen. suspended Charney in June Apparel said that, “Based on for alleged misconduct and ’’ this investigation, the special July: New York-based hedge fund violations of company policy committee determined that it Standard General agrees to a series after a marathon 10-hour would not be appropriate for of arrangements that give American

closed-door annual meet- ORBIS Mr. Charney to be reinstated Apparel $25 million in financing, pay ing. Although the allegations /C as ceo or an officer or employ- off Lion Capital’s $10 million loan and COM were never specified, the firm . ee of the company.” He also reconstitute AA’s board. In a move to SS was said to have claimed that E ceased operating as a consul- tone down enmity between the parties, Charney failed to prevent de- PR tant for the retailer. a “standstill and support” agreement MA famatory blog posts concern- U This pushes Schneider to is struck that gives the hedge fund U/Z

ing a former female employee HI the fore, although she has no control of Charney’s shares which, C and signed off on significant O seat on the board. in combination with its own, add up NG I

severance payments for for- R “My goal is to make to 43 percent of the company’s stock. BY mer employees to shield him- American Apparel a better Charney assumes the title of strategic self from liability. company, while staying true consultant and the board shake-up The suspension came as PHOTO to its core values of quality gives the company its first female a surprise to Charney, who and creativity and preserving director, Colleen Brown. went on the offensive. From a its sweatshop-free, Made in temporary base in New York, USA manufacturing philoso- August: American Apparel reveals he pursued a two-pronged ap- Naturally, I am disappointed phy,” she said. that it spent $1.3 million in proach: fighting his dismissal Allan Mayer, cochairman of professional fees as it battled with in arbitration and looking for the board, said, “We’re pleased Charney in the second quarter. a backer to regain control at with the circumstances and my that what we set out to do last Laura Lee joins the company’s board the firm he founded. spring — namely, to ensure as its second female director. Charney ultimately over 25 years of deep passion that American Apparel had the teamed up with the little- right leadership — has been September: Turnaround specialist Scott known Standard General, and commitment for American accomplished.” Brubaker, of Alvarez & Marsal, is an investment firm led by David Danziger, the board’s named interim ceo and immediately managing partner Soo Kim. Apparel will always be the core other cochairman, said, “This reaffirms the company’s commitment Charney borrowed nearly company needs a permanent to “sweatshop-free, ‘Made in USA’” $20 million from Standard ceo who can bring stability and production and its Los Angeles base. General to buy 27.4 million DNA of the company. strong leadership in this time of shares of the retailer. That transition, and we believe Ms. November: The company reports a boosted his stake in the — DOV CHARNEY Schneider fits the bill perfectly.” wider loss — $19.2 million — for the company to 43 percent from Although there is some clo- third quarter as sales in the period 27.2 percent, but tied him to sure, it’s been a costly battle. recede 5.3 percent. Bigger Capital the investment firm. Apparel $25 million in financial sup- American Apparel spent $5.3 million Fund notes that legal fees tied to And Standard General was careful port and cut an agreement that gave on legal and consulting fees tied to the Charney probe have cost the to keep Charney at arm’s length. it substantial influence to remake the the investigation in the third quarter company $5.3 million. “This transaction is not about the board, which set up a committee to in- alone. That’s money it can little afford, founder, nor is it an endorsement of vestigate Charney with the help of FTI since the retailer remains deeply in Dec. 16, 2014: Charney is terminated him,” Standard General said at the time. Consulting. the red: Net losses totaled $19.2 mil- for cause, Paula Schneider appointed “He is the largest shareholder, and the Many waited for the deluge of sala- lion in the third quarter alone and chief executive officer. Shares rise 5.2 voting agreement allows us to control cious tidbits. But besides a video of $40.9 million for the first nine months percent to 61 cents following the after- his block of shares….He can no longer Charney dancing naked, nothing new re- of the year. market news. — ARNOLD J. KARR vote his shares without our consent.” ally came to light, although many argue And the legal fees seem destined to The investor extended American that the ceo’s exploits should have’’ long only continue. Joe Fresh Appoints Ernst to Women’s Design Post PHOTO BY RICHARD PHIBBS ence will play an important role in refin- Ernst has more than 20 years of experi- By DAVID MOIN ing our women’s offerings as we continue ence in design and branding. She was vice Henriette Ernst to expand our retail footprint globally.” president and design director at Calvin JOE FRESH, tapping the designer mar- Ernst said it was too early to discuss Klein Collection for three years, working ket to bolster its moderate-priced collec- will be based at specifically how she could influence the with creative director Francisco Costa. tion, has named Henriette Ernst senior collection. “Joe needs other people on Earlier, she was head designer of fab- vice president of women’s design. the brand’s New board to execute his vision and keep the ric and material development at Céline, It’s a new position whereby Ernst will quality and standards he wants. The vision where she collaborated with Phoebe be based at the brand’s New York design from Joe is already very strong. I really Philo on the creation of exclusive mate- studio and report to Joe Mimran, creative York design studio like good comfortable casual clothes with rial and color concepts. Before that, she director, and Mario Grauso, president. beautiful elevated colors and perfect fit.” had a similar role at Jil Sander as head “We are excited to have Henriette join and report to Joe She did say in certain categories designer of fabric and material develop- Joe Fresh in this important position over- “there absolutely could be some im- ment, working with designer Raf Simons. seeing women’s design. She brings with Mimran, creative provement” and cited the possibility of She also had design stints at Dries Van her a rigorous and thoughtful design vi- creating some dressier items. Ernst said, Noten, Strenesse Blue and C&A Buying. sion that has been honed at some of the like Mimran, she draws inspiration from Joe Fresh, part of the Loblaw Cos. Ltd. industry’s most respected brands, includ- director, and Mario modern art. She also is inspired by the in Canada, offers men’s, women’s and ing Calvin Klein, Céline and Jil Sander,” Bauhaus and Berlin street scenes of the children’s collections including apparel, Mimran said. “This rich and deep experi- Grauso, president. Seventies and Eighties. accessories, footwear and cosmetics. WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 9 WWD.COM OBITUARIES Mike Toth, Toth + Co. Founder everybody aspires to happiness.” Gloria Gelfand, Fashion Exec By LISA LOCKWOOD Reached for comment Tuesday, Hilfi ger said, “Mike Toth was a gentle Galleria Veneto Naples and other fi rms NEW YORK — Mike Toth, founder, genius. He was not only creative but By ROSEMARY FEITELBERG she had worked with at Jassin-O’Rourke. president and chief creative officer of as strong and as smart as anyone I “Gloria Gelfand was one of many boss- Toth + Co., who created ad campaigns ever knew. I credit Mike with devel- FUNERAL SERVICES will be held es in my career, but she looms large,” for brands such as Tommy Hilfiger, oping and giving birth to the image Friday for Gloria Gelfand, an indomi- said Laura Wenke, who worked at Escada Ralph Lauren, J. Crew, Coach, Keds, of the Tommy Hilfi ger brand, Tommy table force in the fashion industry for in the mid-Eighties before leaving for Nautica, Hickey Freeman, Timex The New American Fragrance and 65 years whose résumé included being Lane Crawford in Asia and on to Europe. and Wrangler, died Thursday at Tommy Girl. He took the raw idea of president of the U.S. divisions of Escada “And it’s likely the same for everyone Massachusetts General Hospital. He ‘preppy with a twist’ to an entirely and Louis Féraud. who worked for her. And boy, did she was 62. new place by photographing cool Gelfand, 89, died of pneumonia make us work.” The cause of death was tonsil and American kids in reality settings be- Tuesday at Hospice of St. Mary’s in She added, “But I don’t know another throat cancer, according to his son, fore anyone understood what reality Callaway, Md., according to her son person who was as generous with their Zachary. Eight years ago, Toth lost his advertising was. He discovered amaz- Lewis. network, who found places for people, ability to speak, but continued to work. ing talent and when Dewey Nicks or Known for her raspy voice, oversize launched careers and who around her Toth understood the power of Carter Smith couldn’t shoot because glasses and bold, brash manner, she tire- grew a thick vine of friends who have brands, authenticity and consistency of other commitments, he would pick lessly phoned department store heads always carried a keen reverence and a and turned several American designers up a camera and shoot campaigns and senior brass, greeting them simply respect for her. She was a force of na- into household names by developing a himself on ranches in rural Texas or with “It’s Gelfand” before launching into ture in our business often fi lled with brand DNA process. in the wilderness in Maine. He also the details of her latest discovery or bone bluster, but she used hers to make a dif- He grew up in San Antonio, Texas, was a great family man. A true gentle- of contention. ference to so many lives. And that’s what and his fi rst love was football. A high man.” Former Saks Fifth Avenue president remains so vivid.” school quarterback, he went to Trinity Toth hired Bruce Weber to shoot and chief merchandising officer Ron An international champion of University on a football scholarship, Jason Priestley as the face of Pepe Frasch recalled meeting Gelfand in the American fashion, Gelfand fi rst went to and later transferred to Holy Cross Jeans in 1993-94, and launched the early Eighties, when he was the store’s Israel to further that cause in 1955 and where he was named to the All East Tommy signature men’s fragrance coat buyer. “The coat business was very about 20 years later did the same in NCAA Division 1 Men’s Football Team with Estée Lauder in 1995, followed Japan. In 1997, while she was still work- as a linebacker. After receiving his by Tommy Girl in 1996. That year, Toth ing at MMG, Gelfand spoke with WWD Bachelor of Fine Arts from Holy Cross, opened a New York offi ce to service about the strategy American fashion he moved to Paris, where he pursued a clients such as Hilfi ger, Coach, John companies should take to sell overseas, career as an artist. In 1977, on a fl ight Varvatos, Swatch and Nautica. Over saying that they should start by testing back to the U.S., he met a fellow pas- the years, his agency’s client roster in- their products through local trade shows senger who offered him a job work- cluded Wrangler, Keds, Chico’s, Soma, and monitor sales. “The fi rst, most impor- ing in the ad department of Wembley Façonnable, Johnson & Murphy, Riders tant presentation of an American vendor by Lee, and Not Your Daughter’s overseas is the Igedo,” she noted. “The Jeans. His fi rm also developed brand key market in taking a product inter- identities for Harvard University and national would be the Benelux region, Boston University. where the market is in tune with import- As a creative director, Toth worked ing American products already. They are alongside photographers such as reading our magazines and watching Bruce Weber, Peter Lindbergh, Steven American television. It’s the greatest in- Meisel and Arthur Elgort. While he fl uence we’ve got.” didn’t consider himself a photogra- She also helped international design- pher, he would frequently take pic- ers get their footing in the U.S. Catherine tures while on campaign sets. He Malandrino, who fi rst met Gelfand 15 would let the professionals do their years ago in New York, said Tuesday, jobs, but would quietly look for “back- “She was like a godmother to me. She stage” moments to capture. For exam- was really kind but she also gave me ple, he shot a photo of a skinny little good advice when I fi rst came to New girl fl exing her muscles in an oversize York. She was very much to the point. Wonder Woman costume. Toth had no- She knew that I was interested in bring- ticed the girl hanging around the mar- Escada founder Wolfgang Ley ing the French fashion fl air to American gins of a Taylor Swift/Keds shoot and and Gloria Gelfand in 2006. women but she opened my eyes to how sent an assistant to get a costume.

PHOTO BY MAT SZWAJKOS/GETTY IMAGES FOR ESCADA SZWAJKOS/GETTY MAT PHOTO BY they are different.” Industries, a New Orleans tie manu- Toth had an instinctive fl air for Allen Questrom once said, “The thing facturer. He spent a year traveling the Americana, which was evident in his big back then and I went to buy Escada about Gloria is that she can yell loud- U.S. with the sales team, which Toth photos, such as demolition derbies, coats. She threw me out of the showroom er than I can. And she’ll tell you if she often described as a “Master’s degree rodeos, motorbikes, couples kissing because I didn’t want to buy the sports- doesn’t like something.” in branding.” and kids with freckles. These photo- wear. It was a different buyer,” he said. “Gloria never takes no for an answer,” After fi ve years there, he decided to graphs were compiled into a book, “She was such a powerful, opinion- noted designer Victor Costa. “I admire start his own fi rm, Toth Design, in 1982, “US: American Stories,” curated by ated, passionate and caring woman. anyone that is a go-getter and can remain which relocated to Concord, Mass., his daughter, Kezia, which had an They just don’t make them like Gloria excited about the business.” in 1984. His fi rst client was a little- exhibit in Boston last winter. In addi- any more,” Frasch said. “Everyone who At her 80th birthday in 2005, she was known mail order company, Popular tion, Toth wrote a book in 2003 called came in contact with her became like surrounded by executives and designers Club Plan, which wanted to create a “Fashion Icon,” an analysis of the role family to her.” she had worked with, among them Burt catalogue to compete with Lands’ End. of branding in the fashion industry. Born in Brooklyn and raised on the Tansky, Ron Frasch, Massimo Ferragamo, Toth renamed it J. Crew and conceived Toth supported the Fresh Air Fund by edge of Flatbush, Gelfand, a Tilden Catherine Malandrino, Joan Kaner and the fi rst “lifestyle” catalogue. A slew of offering pro bono creative services. High School graduate, had to forego an Fern Mallis. Frasch said at the time, clients followed, namely Ralph Lauren, He also provided pro bono brand- art scholarship to Syracuse University “There’s really no one like Gloria left Perry Ellis, Alexander Julian, Hart, ing and marketing services to The so that her brother could attend Baylor in our industry today. She’s passionate Schaffner & Marx and Chaps Ralph Greater Boston Food Bank. An avid College of Medicine. In 1944, she started at 80 years old. She’s always telling me Lauren. In 1993, Toth won the Tommy collector of modern art and photog- working in the garment center as a fi t about some new line she saw or a prod- Hilfi ger account. raphy, Toth lived in an antique farm- model while her husband was fi ghting in uct she loves. She is always looking over When he started working with house in Carlisle, Mass. World War II. With the president of the the horizon, and that’s what our industry Hilfi ger, the company was doing $80 “My father believed that it is in the brand’s encouragement, she took night is about.” million in revenue. When he left eight unseen acts of kindness and support classes at FIT to earn her merchandising Mallis said Tuesday, “She was really years later, Hilfiger was generating that make us who we are. It’s easy to degree, all the while working her way up one of the fi rst female executives in the $1.2 billion in revenue. In a WWD in- see the touch of a talented creative, but to vice president of White Stag. The fi rm fashion industry who was out there fi ght- terview in 1996, Toth said that he re- it’s the way that we answer the phone, created the fi rst women’s jeans, and pio- ing the fi ght. I don’t want to say she was lated well to Hilfi ger’s image partly be- talk to vendors, welcome people or neering retailer Dorothy Shaver bought a garmento but she was a garmenta. She cause they both grew up in big families say hi to Billy the parking guy...that all the fi rst collection for Lord & Taylor. was old-school. She knew her business with small incomes. It was this small- adds up to who we really are. That is Gelfand later held senior manage- and she wasn’t going to take any crap town feel that they tried to convey to how he lived his life and how he taught ment posts at Sportempos, Leslie Fay from anyone.” the rest of the world. “It’s a little bit us to approach our work,” said Zachary and General Mills, where she became Gelfand continued working until about like a 20th-century Huck Finn,” Toth Toth, director of business development the first female division president of two-and-a-half years ago. Lewis Gelfand said. “There’s some wonderful val- at Toth + Co. Kimberly Knitwear. She joined Escada said of his mother’s drive, “She lived it. ues that come out of that small town.” In addition to Kezia and Zachary, in 1981. She brought Rena Lange to the This was her life. Of course, she loved her When the decision was made to do Toth is survived by his wife, Susan; U.S. in 1990, became vice president of family. But she loved the garment indus- heavier advertising, they developed two other children, Maximilian and Ferragamo in 1992, president and chief try — it was everything to her.” what they call “the brand DNA for Mikaela, and fi ve grandchildren. executive offi cer of Féraud in 1994 and In addition to her son, Gelfand is sur- Tommy” — it included the “youthful- A funeral mass will be held at 1:30 she also had a run at Givenchy. She vived by daughters Lois Fairclough and ness of the American spirit, the spar- p.m. Sunday at St. Irene Church, 181 moved on to the consulting group MMG Sharon Lawerence; fi ve grandchildren kle in the eye.” East Street, Carlisle, Mass., followed in 1997, then joined the consultants and two great-grandchildren. Friday’s “We portrayed Tommy as honestly by a burial at Green Cemetery on Jassin-O’Rourke two years later. In service is set for 9:30 a.m. at Gutterman’s as we could and created a brand that Bedford Road in Carlisle, Mass. A re- 2002, she set up her own fi rm, Gelfand in Rockville Centre, N.Y. people would aspire to,” Toth said. “If ception will follow the mass and burial Marketing Associates, where she repre- — WITH CONTRIBUTIONS FROM Ralph is wealth and Calvin is hedo- at Punkatasset Farm at 775 Monument sented Lafayette 148, Andrew Urbain, LORNA KOSKI AND MILES SOCHA nism, then Tommy is happiness. And Street in Concord, Mass. 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014

Bag it: At Gucci’s Fifth Avenue fl agship, the current windows emphasize accessories.

HeadlineThe Here Gucci Headline Headline Ques tion

FINDING THE right designer to capture The discovery and development of and underplayed heritage. She immersed Saint Laurent for the role of ceo of the essence of a heritage house is a a designer’s voice is to a considerable herself immediately in the archives, and Gucci; it was his decision to appoint daunting task. History has shown that degree an organic process, one involving her revival of the Flora pattern proved a Giannini sole creative director. Under over and over, and many houses have trial and error. It seldom happens huge and ongoing success. her creative direction, the business, gotten it wrong. overnight. Under tremendous pressure, The Gucci windows now installed if not always the fashion, fl ourished Kering’s challenge at Gucci is Giannini made a laudable debut with at the Trump Tower store on Fifth for the better part of a decade, fi rst in particularly diffi cult; it must not only a pretty, if perhaps too obviously Avenue speak to the brand’s current partnership with Lee, and when he fi nd the right person to take the brand commercial, ode to a girl, she wrote in positioning. The northern window on left at the end of 2008, with Patrizio into the next phase, it must fi rst clarify her program notes, “unaware of her own Fifth features a shelving installation di Marco. Driven by heritage, bag exactly what the essence of Gucci is. sex appeal.” But the following season and two mannequins wearing clothes. business exploded. Along the way, The house’s luxury heritage is not Frida and her Gucci Girl did a high-heat The shelves display bags and other exploiting Gucci’s luxury aspect and in the manner of Chanel and Dior, its 180, the fi rst in a series of collections accessories, while a third look hangs its inherent exclusivity became a focus, founder Guccio Gucci a businessman that at times were appealing and at inside an amazing, vertically positioned an initiative that included fl aunting and leather-goods purveyor rather than a times underdelivered on fashion, but travel trunk. In the southern window, made-in-Italy craftsmanship. (This genius couturier. As such, Gucci’s luxury in aggregate felt wanting of the kind of a female and a male mannequin face wasn’t always a straight line. Di Marco origins more closely mirror those of razor-sharp message that defi nes the each other, from opposite sides. Their opened up Macy’s Herald Square and Prada, and perhaps even more, given the greatest designers. arms extended, they’ve tossed into the Bloomingdale’s, to the dismay of some horsey angle, Hermès. The three evolved Along the way, Gucci became one air a bounty of handbags that create a long-term retail partners.) For years, the differently, Prada achieving Olympian of numerous high-end brands to make fanciful arc. The 56th Street growth looked unstoppable. fashion status and Hermès never quite sartorial accessibility a clear message windows feature two large Recently, China has breaking through as a fashion leader, on its runway. From there, it wasn’t photos, one of a guy in a fl oundered, luxury across but ever at the unquestioned pinnacle of a giant leap to a contemporary look jacket and striped sweater, the board has been hit chic luxury. While Gucci had dabbled in at designer prices — a trend that has the other, a tight shot of a and weaknesses in various ready-to-wear, its pre-Tom Ford identity gained traction, either intentionally model grasping a bag. Those businesses exposed. At was not about fashion. or otherwise. Another brand to do so: windows send a message: the same time, with few Rather, Ford invented Gucci’s fashion Kering’s YSL. This is an accessories house, exceptions, sales of luxury reality, based a little on its horsy heritage Noting the contemporary-ization of and the clothes accessorize rtw have declined. At Gucci, and Sixties/Seventies jet-set following a faction of high-end fashion is not an the accessories. the look of the rtw has and a lot on his own belief in sex, sex insult. It’s articulation of an interesting Gucci is the Kering seemed at odds with the and more sex as a matter of style, chic phenomenon that plays into an essential anchor. It has been on the tactical upgrading of the and marketing. It speaks to his designer question: What is the role of luxury luxury map for nearly a accessories. savvy that he made the sex angle seem fashion today? Of the designer? What century, even enduring one Bridget Foley’s Those realities converged, as house-appropriate as a sensible should those roles be? of the most embarrassing, Diary raising a fundamental shoe-with-horsebit, and to his cultural In the case of Gucci, it’s particularly tragic turns in fashion question for the brand: radar that it resonated so powerfully as pertinent to assess two merch-driven history, a chapter that What does Gucci stand for an antidote to Nineties deconstruction. relationships, those between the clothes involved family infi ghting, a talking as a fashion house? Superior Italian Ford’s Gucci at fi rst sizzled and shocked and the accessories, and between ghost and murder. There are reasons it craftsmanship isn’t enough; an entire and quickly brought sexy back big-time, fashion and classics. What steers the survived: One, its resonant name and national industry is based on that. while ultimately setting a new standard ship? Is it fair to question whether foundation in classics that retained a What distinguishes Gucci fashionwise? for house reinvention. Gucci needs high-profi le fashion rtw? loyal customer base, even at the lowest What does Kering — read: Francois Frida Giannini took over after the Certainly, as the brand seeks to fi ll moment. Two bigger reasons: Tom Henri-Pinault — want consumers to failed three-creative-director experiment Giannini’s position, it’s important for Ford and Domenico De Sole, whose think, what images conjured, when they that followed Ford’s departure. Her CV incoming chief executive offi cer Marco reinvention of the house ultimately hear the word “Gucci”? Where does — chief accessories designer — played Bizzarri and the Kering brass to whom saved it. he see Gucci as a fashion entity within perfectly into the already obsessive focus he reports to articulate what the job is. When they left in February 2004, the Kering portfolio? Can a brand tout on accessories that had started to drive To do that, they must fi rst clarify their Gucci was generating the lion’s share of luxury, craftsmanship, exclusivity on the industry. Her fi rst show suggested vision for Gucci. the Group’s profi ts; only Bottega Veneta one hand, and put contemporary-looking a mandate from what was then Gucci Ford made sexual imagery, beginning was also making money. There were clothes on the runway? Group to distance the brand from the with that on his runway, the nucleus for in-house fears that if Gucci cracked, These questions must be answered Ford era and make it her own with a everything Gucci did. Giannini felt that Gucci Group would crumble. Mark concretely before Giannini’s softer, less overtly sexual lineup. prior to her ascent, Gucci overplayed sex Lee was tapped from his post at Yves replacement is hired. Informed 10 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 11 WWD.COM

percentage of potential consumers then in 2009, as well as 30 senior jobs at Bag it: At have a clear image or care about the beginning of last year, not to mention Gucci’s Fifth the “house codes?” Even with Dior, MEMO PAD the dismissal of executive editor Jill Avenue fl agship, could nine out of 10 people on the Abramson earlier this year. the current street pick a Bar jacket out of a TIME TO CUT: The other shoe is dropping — ALEXANDRA STEIGRAD windows well-tailored lineup? Probably not. at The New York Times. According emphasize One could argue that the ongoing to sources, staffers at the Times were GIORGIO’S NEW FACE: Giorgio Armani accessories. relevance and high ID quotient of sent an e-mail on Tuesday from the continues to strengthen his ties to the classic Chanel iconography is rooted Newspaper Guild of New York indicating music world, picking Calvin Harris as as much in Karl Lagerfeld’s brilliant, that layoffs would take place Tuesday the new face of the Emporio Armani irreverent nurturing for 30-plus years and Wednesday. brand for spring 2015. The Scottish DJ as in Mademoiselle’s originals. Gucci The paper said in October that it and music producer will appear in the is different. Seventies shirtdresses would eliminate 100 newsroom jobs in black-and-white advertising campaign aside, its strongest fashion history order to shore up its budget so it could shot in Los Angeles by photographer is perceived of as recent, and many invest in its digital future. Boo George. The images will break people who were there at the time In the e-mail, which was sent globally in January. still work in the industry or remain Tuesday, The Guild said the Times fashion customers. accepted buyout applications from The extent to which the next 57 members, and it estimated that Calvin Harris designer mines the horsey heritage the paper accepted buyouts from 30 and the Ford component, or rejects non-Guild members. That number is them, remains to be seen. Several an educated “guess,” the Guild told major names have been fl oated as WWD. The paper also indicated that possible replacements for Giannini, it would let go of another 21 union including Tisci, Tomas Maier, Joseph members, which will likely translate Altuzarra and Christopher Kane. His to more than 100 job cuts. LVMH contractual situation aside, In prior weeks, several well- Tisci would be lights out. He counts known reporters opted to take among the most closely watched buyouts. On the media desk, which drivers of fashion today, his work is being folded into Business Day, indicative that homage to house codes reporters Bill Carter, Stuart Elliott matters less than creating exciting and Christine Haughney all opted to fashion. That said, Givenchy is a very take the package. On Tuesday, Leslie different kind and scale of business. Kaufman, a digital media reporter on Tisci hasn’t had to make sure his the desk, was let go, leaving just a designs for Givenchy work back to a handful of media reporters, as well huge classics business. as columnist David Carr. Last week, Maier is even-keeled and executive editor Dean Baquet told disciplined, and as creative director WWD that he was going to “make of Bottega Veneta, oversees the sure it [the media desk] is as strong Headline Here Headline Headline creative output of Kering’s second- as ever,” but he did not provide largest business, one performing details on what the restructuring beautifully right now. He understands would look like. luxury and not trading down. His Although the Styles section has Bottega bags are gorgeous and often thus far been spared, staffers are still inventive while incorporating the on edge, as is most of the newsroom. signature woven element. Though One source described the mood as “Calvin Harris is a truly Maier’s clothes have been less “tense” but that it was “much worse” cosmopolitan, dynamic young man who The Gucci Ques tion consistent than his accessories and a few weeks earlier. Closed-door is capable of attracting the masses with sometimes awkward, his best work meetings and whisper sessions between his music and energy,” Armani said. “He is his most recent. His last collection employees have come to be the norm in isn’t a model by nature, and this creates FINDING THE right designer to capture The discovery and development of and underplayed heritage. She immersed Saint Laurent for the role of ceo of speculation indicates Pinault’s infused sophisticated chic with an the offi ce. a more sincere and engaging bond with the essence of a heritage house is a a designer’s voice is to a considerable herself immediately in the archives, and Gucci; it was his decision to appoint desire to hire a designer who will artful touch. Another insider said that it doesn’t the public.” daunting task. History has shown that degree an organic process, one involving her revival of the Flora pattern proved a Giannini sole creative director. Under embrace and run with the house Altuzarra would be amazing for seem like people know what’s going on — “It’s incredible to be working with over and over, and many houses have trial and error. It seldom happens huge and ongoing success. her creative direction, the business, legacy. Which one? There are two. Gucci, but whether Gucci would be even senior managers. Based on that lack Mr. Armani and his team at Emporio gotten it wrong. overnight. Under tremendous pressure, The Gucci windows now installed if not always the fashion, fl ourished The fi rst, classic, tony leather goods, amazing for Altuzarra is another story. of clarity, the source said that although Armani,” said Harris, who will also front Kering’s challenge at Gucci is Giannini made a laudable debut with at the Trump Tower store on Fifth for the better part of a decade, fi rst in back in the day attracted the likes of His is a decidedly sensual aesthetic. the cuts are said to wrap on Wednesday, the Emporio Armani Eyewear and Watch particularly diffi cult; it must not only a pretty, if perhaps too obviously Avenue speak to the brand’s current partnership with Lee, and when he Jackie O and Elizabeth Taylor. Yet He could run with the sexy thing there’s still the possibility that they go lines internationally. “I feel an affi nity fi nd the right person to take the brand commercial, ode to a girl, she wrote in positioning. The northern window on left at the end of 2008, with Patrizio despite photo documentation of those without falling prey to Ford mimicry. later into the week. to the brand ethos and have been a into the next phase, it must fi rst clarify her program notes, “unaware of her own Fifth features a shelving installation di Marco. Driven by heritage, bag women carrying bags and wearing a But, even after the Kering investment The Times experienced a similar longtime admirer of their designs.” exactly what the essence of Gucci is. sex appeal.” But the following season and two mannequins wearing clothes. business exploded. Along the way, sportif shirtdress or two, the glamour in his company, Altuzarra has been number of job cuts before in 2008 and — ALESSANDRA TURRA The house’s luxury heritage is not Frida and her Gucci Girl did a high-heat The shelves display bags and other exploiting Gucci’s luxury aspect and quotient of midcentury Gucci is more mindful of expanding his own in the manner of Chanel and Dior, its 180, the fi rst in a series of collections accessories, while a third look hangs its inherent exclusivity became a focus, post-fact marketing invention than business slowly. To suddenly concern founder Guccio Gucci a businessman that at times were appealing and at inside an amazing, vertically positioned an initiative that included fl aunting reality. Then again, marketing is its himself with how last season’s bag re- and leather-goods purveyor rather than a times underdelivered on fashion, but travel trunk. In the southern window, made-in-Italy craftsmanship. (This own reality. Pinault could choose to issues are performing online and in genius couturier. As such, Gucci’s luxury in aggregate felt wanting of the kind of a female and a male mannequin face wasn’t always a straight line. Di Marco focus on that Seventies moment, at hundreds of stores around the world origins more closely mirror those of razor-sharp message that defi nes the each other, from opposite sides. Their opened up Macy’s Herald Square and least as this next chapter commences. — and make no mistake, he would Prada, and perhaps even more, given the greatest designers. arms extended, they’ve tossed into the Bloomingdale’s, to the dismay of some Lord knows, plenty of designers out have to be so concerned — could horsey angle, Hermès. The three evolved Along the way, Gucci became one air a bounty of handbags that create a long-term retail partners.) For years, the there know their way around that distract from his essential creative differently, Prada achieving Olympian of numerous high-end brands to make fanciful arc. The 56th Street growth looked unstoppable. decade, including one very high- development. For more career opportunities log on to WWDCareers.com. fashion status and Hermès never quite sartorial accessibility a clear message windows feature two large Recently, China has profi le member of Kering’s own stable. Ditto Christopher Kane on the breaking through as a fashion leader, on its runway. From there, it wasn’t photos, one of a guy in a fl oundered, luxury across The second legacy is the development front. During his stint but ever at the unquestioned pinnacle of a giant leap to a contemporary look jacket and striped sweater, the board has been hit hypersexual fashion of Tom Ford at Versus he gained some experience chic luxury. While Gucci had dabbled in at designer prices — a trend that has the other, a tight shot of a and weaknesses in various (not without its own Seventies working within the confi nes of a larger, ready-to-wear, its pre-Tom Ford identity gained traction, either intentionally model grasping a bag. Those businesses exposed. At references) that, back in another established brand, though hardly was not about fashion. or otherwise. Another brand to do so: windows send a message: the same time, with few day, rocked fashion. Gucci has done one the scale of Gucci. His charming Spaces Rather, Ford invented Gucci’s fashion Kering’s YSL. This is an accessories house, exceptions, sales of luxury its best to eradicate that one from aesthetic is younger and less obviously reality, based a little on its horsy heritage Noting the contemporary-ization of and the clothes accessorize rtw have declined. At Gucci, house history. In the 2011 Florence sophisticated than Altuzarra’s. COMMERCIAL and Sixties/Seventies jet-set following a faction of high-end fashion is not an the accessories. the look of the rtw has exhibition celebrating the house’s Kering has an interesting, diverse REAL ESTATE PATTERNS, SAMPLES, and a lot on his own belief in sex, sex insult. It’s articulation of an interesting Gucci is the Kering seemed at odds with the 90th anniversary, few Ford looks and stable of designers at its major PRODUCTIONS and more sex as a matter of style, chic phenomenon that plays into an essential anchor. It has been on the tactical upgrading of the fewer mentions of his name (none that houses. In addition to Maier: Stella Full service shop to the trade. Fine fast work. 212-869-2699 and marketing. It speaks to his designer question: What is the role of luxury luxury map for nearly a accessories. I recall) were included. McCartney, a trailblazer in ethical savvy that he made the sex angle seem fashion today? Of the designer? What century, even enduring one Bridget Foley’s Those realities converged, Yet if Pinault decides to pursue fashion with a grounded real-woman as house-appropriate as a sensible should those roles be? of the most embarrassing, Diary raising a fundamental fashion — as opposed to classic luxury aesthetic. McQueen’s Sarah Burton, shoe-with-horsebit, and to his cultural In the case of Gucci, it’s particularly tragic turns in fashion question for the brand: — it will be diffi cult for the incoming a rare artistic breed and de-facto 33rd-57th St West-All Sizes Menswear Showrooms radar that it resonated so powerfully as pertinent to assess two merch-driven history, a chapter that What does Gucci stand for designer to ignore the Ford years. couturier. Balenciaga’s Alexander D. Levy Adams & Co. 212-679-5500 an antidote to Nineties deconstruction. relationships, those between the clothes involved family infi ghting, a talking as a fashion house? Superior Italian Horse culture and the accompanying Wang, a bold young talent unafraid Ford’s Gucci at fi rst sizzled and shocked and the accessories, and between ghost and murder. There are reasons it craftsmanship isn’t enough; an entire regalia are a style legacy, and a to fuse street and couture concepts. and quickly brought sexy back big-time, fashion and classics. What steers the survived: One, its resonant name and national industry is based on that. laudable one. They’re not a fashion YSL’s Hedi Slimane, probably the Showrooms & Lofts BWAY 7TH AVE SIDE STREETS Sales Ass’t while ultimately setting a new standard ship? Is it fair to question whether foundation in classics that retained a What distinguishes Gucci fashionwise? legacy. The new creative director may most fascinating designer working Great ’New’ Office Space Avail High volume childrenswear comp ADAMS & CO. 212-679-5500 seeks detailed person with great for house reinvention. Gucci needs high-profi le fashion rtw? loyal customer base, even at the lowest What does Kering — read: Francois embrace the Ford history and draw today. The shows look to me like people skills to ass’t in sales division. Frida Giannini took over after the Certainly, as the brand seeks to fi ll moment. Two bigger reasons: Tom Henri-Pinault — want consumers to from it or reject it in a conscious the emperor’s new (contemporary) Must be able to create PO’s, work w/ To subscribe to FN, go to prod team on costing, review detail failed three-creative-director experiment Giannini’s position, it’s important for Ford and Domenico De Sole, whose think, what images conjured, when they pursuit of something altogether new, clothes. But the numbers say that a lot sheets, communicate with buyers, run that followed Ford’s departure. Her CV incoming chief executive offi cer Marco reinvention of the house ultimately hear the word “Gucci”? Where does à la Riccardo Tisci at Givenchy. But it of women are buying in. WWD.com/subscribe sales reports, etc. Great oppty! Or call 1.866.963.7335 Email resume: — chief accessories designer — played Bizzarri and the Kering brass to whom saved it. he see Gucci as a fashion entity within can’t be ignored. All of which may play into Pinault’s [email protected] perfectly into the already obsessive focus he reports to articulate what the job is. When they left in February 2004, the Kering portfolio? Can a brand tout Which raises the question of thought process as he determines how on accessories that had started to drive To do that, they must fi rst clarify their Gucci was generating the lion’s share of luxury, craftsmanship, exclusivity on how much legacy matters, anyway. to position the Gucci brand for its next the industry. Her fi rst show suggested vision for Gucci. the Group’s profi ts; only Bottega Veneta one hand, and put contemporary-looking Often, the names of storied houses phase, and who is best to take up that a mandate from what was then Gucci Ford made sexual imagery, beginning was also making money. There were clothes on the runway? ring familiar but their founding creative mantle. Gucci is the fl agship. Group to distance the brand from the with that on his runway, the nucleus for in-house fears that if Gucci cracked, These questions must be answered creative dogmas — not so much. If Getting it right — beginning with Ford era and make it her own with a everything Gucci did. Giannini felt that Gucci Group would crumble. Mark concretely before Giannini’s one extracts from the conversation clear articulation of what Gucci is and softer, less overtly sexual lineup. prior to her ascent, Gucci overplayed sex Lee was tapped from his post at Yves replacement is hired. Informed the Big Two, Chanel and Dior, what should be — is essential. 12 WWD WEDNESDAY, DECEMBER 17, 2014 WWD.COM Big Picture Jason Schwartzman “IS IT ART? Is it not? What’s continued to do so until he died good and what’s bad?” Tim in 2000, even after a fraud case Burton was delving into the ruled against him. meta at the Museum of Modern “It’s not a big-eyed one, Art on Monday night. “I’ve but it’s a painting that experienced that [question] is extraordinary,” said myself, quite a lot,” he said, Christoph Waltz, who continuing to riff. “I’m very, plays Walter in the fi lm, very connected to that.” opposite Amy Adams. Burton was considering the He was referencing work of Margaret Keane, the subject his very own Keane; of his new, aberrantly nonfi ction several cast mates fi lm “Big Eyes.” So the story goes: received paintings Keane’s work — identifi able by as wrap gifts. “If its subjects, mostly children and I told anyone that women, with oversize eyes — was Margaret Keane is misappropriated by her second the painter of that husband, Walter Keane. The painting, they’d be paintings were sold massively very surprised.” in the Fifties and Sixties, during Jason Schwartzman which Walter took the credit. He — who didn’t make away with a Keane despite his role as a gallery owner in the fi lm — noted that the art on his walls Keane herself, who was a little more had planned on Christoph abstract. “The only only attending one Waltz thing on my walls is premiere, enjoyed food and scratches the L.A. opening so and my daughter’s much she decided height chart,” he to come to New York said as moviegoers, for a second round. which included In the restaurant, Patrick Stewart, the artist nestled in a Brooke Shields, Helena booth far away from Christensen and the celebrities and others, piled into photographers. Earlier the theater. in the night, she After the fi lm admitted that she still rolled, guests rode paints every day at age uptown to Kappo 87. “I still sometimes FOR MORE PHOTOS, SEE Masa, the new paint sad ones, but I sushi spot tucked paint happy ones too,” WWD.com/eye. Tim underneath Larry Amy she explained. “I’ve Helena Burton Gagosian’s gallery Adams become a lot happier.” Christensen

on Madison Avenue. — KRISTEN TAUER STEVE EICHNER PHOTOS BY

try to capture the spirit of the The pumpkin and foie gras velouté. time.” (When he isn’t on the clock, he counts potato dishes — mashed, fried, whatever — amongst his favorite things to Star Bright make for himself.) RED VELVET CAKE, eggs With his poetic approach Most recently, he dreamed Benedict, Thousand Island to cuisine, he has come to be up a special fall-inspired dish, dressing, Waldorf salad — they’re regarded as one of the most the aforementioned pumpkin culinary classics at this point. But creative chefs in the business. and foie gras velouté, with James before they reached commercial “Twombly, Pollack, Bruce Beard “Rising Star” chef Chris stardom, they were just the Springsteen, The Beatles, Kajioka (a Per Se alumnus and gastronomic musings of chefs at Chet Baker,” he says, ticking the former executive chef of the Waldorf Astoria New York. off his sources of inspiration. Vintage Cave in Hawaii). The duo And, if 13-Michelin-starred “My passion for the artist is a teamed up to unveil the Waldorf chef Pierre Gagnaire has part of it, but it’s also about my Astoria’s just-launched culinary anything to do with it, the next program, Taste of Waldorf, which iconic dish to have Waldorf roots matches its master chefs with will be a pumpkin and foie gras the James Beard Foundation’s velouté (served with brioche of emerging star talents. comté and beet root, naturally). Other participants include Gagnaire, 64, was born to a Michelin star in its fi rst year, On a recent visit to the 80- Heinz Beck (the man behind be a chef. A native of Apinac, that ethos is refl ected in his seat, contemporary dining room, Rome’s only three-Michelin- France, Gagnaire is the son of fresh take on classic French the tasting menu (the restaurant starred restaurant, La Pergola restaurant owners. He nabbed dishes. For example? His also has à la carte options) at Rome Cavalieri, Waldorf his fi rst offi cial apprenticeship seasonal interpretations of included sea bream poached Astoria Hotel & Resorts); the at a restaurant in Lyon when foie gras. The current in chorizo butter and award-winning brother duo he was only 16 and never left offering is cubed duck served with pumpkin Chris and Jeff Galvin (of the the kitchen. After a few cooking foie gras and red tuna, gnocchi; pan-fried Waldorf Astoria Edinburgh), stints around the world, served with a salad supreme of grouse with and risings stars like chef David he returned to his family’s of chicory and grilled juniper, and a variation Posey, formerly of Blackbird restaurant in Saint-Étienne, Le leeks, seasoned with on a porcini dish, served restaurant in Chicago. Clos Fleuri, in 1976, where he cold-pressed hazelnut with a cold infusion of The fi nal dish, which will earned his fi rst Michelin star, Pierre oil. The dish is topped coffee ice cream fl avored be determined when all of the and later opened his fi rst solo Gagnaire with toasted hazelnuts with thyme. The fi nale chefs prepare their creations restaurant in 1981. and jellied kombu stock. was Gagnaire’s Grand for a team of top judges in New PHOTO BY ERIC FOUGERE/VIP IMAGES/CORBIS PHOTO BY He has gone on to build “I like this dish a Dessert, which included York in February, will land on a small empire. These days, team, the guest and the fi nal lot because it’s simple a combination of fi ve 28 menus around the globe. he splits his time between product. My passion is to give and light. It combines different berry and “Pierre is legendary,” his home in Paris and his pleasure on the plate.” the spirit of slowly chocolate confections. Kajioka says of his collaborator. restaurants around the world, His gastronomic approach moving into winter,” Gagnaire insists there “For every cook who aspires including Berlin (where he remains the same at all of says the restaurant’s are no specialties on to work in Michelin-starred is the executive chef at Les his outposts — it’s about chef de cuisine, Roel his menus. “There is no restaurants, he’s truly a genius. Solistes at the Waldorf Astoria), “facing tomorrow,” but being Lintermans, who works with star dish,” he says. “We always That’s what everyone has Las Vegas, Dubai, Hong Kong “respectful of yesterday.” a team of 12 chefs under try to be inspired by what we labeled him as.” and Tokyo, among others. At Les Solistes, which earned Gagnaire’s direction. see, feel, and discover — we — KRISTIN TICE STUDEMAN